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Found this video cuz my set of #2 started flickering when turned on and gave me a massive headache. 😂

this was great im just getting into watch making at struggling to get the hands fitted onto the movement while keeping them level with the hour marks

Very helpful, thanks

Hi I have used the Tamiya Gray Surface Primer on a large 1/14 Tamiya truck but the result was not satisfactory. There were patches of dark spots even after laying down 4 coats of the grey primer. The original body came in the Black edition but I wanted to repaint it in Metallic orange and so I sanded down the body with 400 grit followed by 1000 grit and finally 2000 grit. I then washed it under water and dried it and then proceeded to prime it. Is there something I could do further to make the grey primer evenly coated.

Great work. I'll have to watch it many times to absorbed all the information. Thank you

It's nice that you made such a video. Sorry in advance for what I'm telling you from my point of view. The way you fill the gaps with and how you fill them is like a monkey trying to clean a poll with a welding machine. First, you use the wrong tool. A spatula with a rounded bottom is better suited to work the compound into the recess. Always work the putty or green stuff only with water. This also extends the processing time. Then it is better to fill the larger gaps with thin plastic strips to make the gap smaller. Then you can work with putty or putty. Due to your approach, you apply too much material, which you have to remove again. For putty, always brush over it with a wet finger to get a smoother surface. Personally, I use super glue to close smaller gaps. Apply a thin layer two to three times and gently sand down. If you then carefully run your fingernail over it, you will notice every unevenness, which you can then dab again with super glue. This also results in clean closures of gaps. The comment became a little longer, but it hurts my soul when I see how someone does not handle such tools properly.

Asian water monitor, argentine black and white tegu, or american alligator would be my guess! Love the animal inspiration, by the way- real life reptiles come in such a fantastic array of patterns and colours, they make great inspiration for fantasy painting

Just watched this … very impressive !…thanks for sharing 🙏

You can use Tamiya Extra Thin to thin Humbrol model filler....

Awesome work! I wish there were longer beauty shots at the end!

This is so awesome!

Dirty down products are 90% hype.

I am currently using the Tamiya basic putty from the tube. It has a better result than the humbrol. I was thinking to try the Miliput or epoxie but won't after this review. I might try Mr white putty

An excellent video, and very timely. I have the headband magnifiers and yep, having to be so close to the model is an issue. I was looking at desk lamps but, having used those in the past, I knew that'd be same thing. Thank you for letting me know about the binocular loupes. Cracking idea. Subscribed )O(

Excellent! Thanx!

Fine on warhammer model ? Lose details cuz of microfiller ?

For the amount of money that you spend on these, for them to not be completely destroyed after 6 months is insane to me

I had a cheap set, series 201 I think, it's only available in a set together, and they were the best synthetic brushes I've ever used. I plan on trying these next when I need some high quality ones because I can't get the rosemary and co series 33 due to import issues here in the US

4th one is pretty awesome

I'm italian and.... thank you for giving life to this wonderful legionary... Masterpiece!!! Greetings from Italy...

Thank you! This sounds super daft as I've never used anything like this before but I was super nervous it would stay that opaque green! Really excited for this to cure now :)

I find it best to pop the glue in the hole on these kits, not on the bit you're sliding in

This project was so much fun. So what real life reptile do you think was the prime inspiration for the Dewbacks paint scheme? Get it right and I will give you a shout out on the next video :D

I've used these primers for years now and they have always been perfect. The only disadvantage is that they work out quite expensive but IMHO they are worth it because of the lack of risk using these. I live in Portugal and have used them in hot/cold/humid/dry and have never had any problems. I'm lucky because I can spray in the open air but the sprays are very volatile, smelly and you definitely don't want to breathe this stuff in!

Tamiya Fine and Mr Surfacer black are the best !!!

Thanks for this, It provided some good tips to watch out for, although I think the marine looked trashed in the end, that was not your fault but the terrible speed paints. I would love to see a new version using the newer speed paint 2.0.

Learned some stuff from this video. Great job.

I was waiting to see the cobblestone after effect and then it was gone and then a few seconds near the end and lol

I think it's great that the names and numbers of the Vallejo colors are also mentioned and displayed. Because a model stands or falls on the painting. Thank you very much for that! LG michey-berlin 😊

Absolutely fantastic video, really made life easier in me getting back into the hobby. Thanks mate, easy sub right there.

Have you tried using Mr. Surfacer 500 liquid putty, by GSI Ceros Mr. Hobby. That works very well for gaps and seam lines for your models and other projects.

Very Nice !!! I'm going to paint my gladiators in the next few days and the tutorial helped me a lot. Thank you very much. LG michey-berlin 😊

That was great! Should I dry brush after applying? And like add nuln oil

Hi mate, ive looked everywhere online and this seems to be the only example of the use of ddm ontop of clear resin. I tried it for myself this evening and am going to experiment more, but i found it basically just clouded the surface (unsurprising as a matt fluid) without going green as expected. I'm going to experiment more, as its possible the bottle had cooled by then, or that my application was flawed. Just wondered if you had any tips how you achieved the surface algae effect?

is there a wash that paints on a rust for copper, bronze and brass paint that gives that green patina look?

ot to sound like a anti-WH asshule!, but you think THIS! pattern would work on Battletech Mechs? I ask, because I been looking to the 40K Boys'/ Painters for Inspiration for my Mechs' I LOVE this video! lol TY Man!

This is very well done. Clear, concise, to the point. No flare or dramatic nonsense.

Well done

Cool 👍

I sure appreciate your channel and your research. Instead of using pigments, I wonder if acrylic paint would work in these molds mixed with the light white hydrocal. - Rick, USMC

As somebody who does watches and gunpla too, magnifiying binoculars are a great idea.

LOL I felt that comment about amazing table presence but zooming in on the picture looks like a toddler painted it.

the aks realcolors ar truely amazing good ! :) i love them to airbrushing airplains. the primers ar good to need to bee thinned.

Hi, What colour code for the Vallejo model air Yellow, as there are a few different shades and the Gunship Green is that also model air. Thanks. The skin tone is the best, as you've captured the mediterranean skin tone perfectly.

Terrific job. Looks perfect to me. 👍

Sloppy

Young's products are superb..I was they'd been available when I began painting in the mid 70s. ..I awlays pinned the parts of my figures...

That looks amazing From australia❤

One thing I have to mention, I noticed your respirator is a JSP Force 8 with P3 filters. P3 filters are for larger particles like dust and wood. You need ABEK for complete protection as it will provide filtration against organic vapours and acid gases which are found in aerosol based spray paint cans. If you can smell it with the mask on, the chemicals are entering your lungs. You can get the JSP ABEK filters for a fairly affordable price.

Hi, which type of formula do you recommend to use with 3D printed models? (PLA.)