I use ak a lot, and they recommend using a slighly damp sponge on the texture while it is still wet. It gets a more realistic finish to the sand effect.
I love this texture paste. My technique is covering the dried base with agrax earthshade and dotting some black wash in random locations as its drying, then it adds some interesting variation to the colouration of the sand. Then drybrush with a lighter sandy yellow over the top to pick the edges out.
A palette knife is a godsend for larger bases, substantially improves application efficiency. I store things like this in Ziploc bags between uses because the twist tops seldom have the quality required to keep a product on the shelf for a long period of time once its been opened and the "Sealed for your protection" layer is removed.
Yes, a pallete knife is definitely a good shout for larger bases! I personally haven't had any issues with this tub drying out. But a zip lock bag sounds a good idea. Another idea someone suggested was clingfilm under the screw lid to help keep it air tight
Oh yeah saran wrap should work too. I have opened tubs of Vallejo and artist mediums from ~20 years ago still usable because they've been in Ziploc bags away from sunlight. :)
Just a note that Golden Coarse Molding Paste (found in most art supply stores) is functionally the same but in sort of a translucent white--works great for ice/snow and can be painted with regular or contrast paints for other colors that need a scale of texture that best matches tt miniature scale for sand. It's also usually quite a bit cheaper.
I've been using the AK interactive range of sand and soil for several years. I've found the best thing to apply the product with is plastic coffee stirrers. I can use the stirrer end for larger areas and the thin end for pushing the product between figures legs and other narrow areas. i paint a lot of 15mm size figures and the narrow end of the stirrer will even get the terrain around them without getting it on the figures.
Nice to see you back! I like the assorted gunges of the AK diorama range a lot, (since discovering them on your channel) but I have noticed a couple of them seem to be a bit predisposed to drying up in the container, the worst offender being 'Light Earth'. I've found misting it with water before putting the top back on seems to help. 'Rough Terrain' is really useful.The only one in the range I didn't think much of is 'Tarmac'. It really needs to be applied with a palette knife for best effect, which makes using it for miniature bases a bit tricky, and it requires a fair bit of weathering to look convincing. According to the comments on the AK instructional videos, it seems they changed the formula recently, and the old version was better. I've taken to using Peco 'Road Surface' scatter for an 'urban' effect. I noticed that AK are now selling this stuff in smaller pots with 'Wargame' rather than 'Diorama' on the label.
Thanks Parazatico, I really appreciate that! Yes I have heard people saying some of the other ones in the range can dry up. But as I haven't tried those yet I cannot really comment. But I will definitely check out that other one you mentioned. Thanks!
I wanted to say thanks for the detailed video about this product which I wasn't totally sure how to make the best use of. Also, at 6:35 I was wondering if the problem is that the surface hadn't been washed off and had some oil on it, rather than that it wasn't primed. Maybe scuffing the other side actually cleaned it off.
You are welcome and I am really glad you found it helpful! Residual grease on the surface is an interesting thought and being fair, I did not de-grease it before painting. I have used it on other smooth surfaces with a similar result though. So having something for it to grip to is still probably a good way to go with this stuff👍
Nice one 👍just found the channel and enjoyed this. I use this stuff alot and combine it with the Desert Sand (yes theya re actually different 😅) mix as well to achieve a more realisteic look. As someone else has said if you use a damp bush or sponge to "dab" the mix it gives you a reat finish. Scatter in some grit/small stones and some tufts when wet and the effect is great, i'm using it across 2 projects now.
Thanks for the tips! There is loads of stuff I want to try out with this product. One question though, when you say mix them, are you applying the two types of sand effect to the model separately, but while still wet? Or are you mixing them together before application? If so are you mixing them loosly so you still get the colour differentiation or fully combine them?
I got a great big bag of scale sand by sweeping up after I cut Indian sandstone with an angle grinder in my garden. I've yet to use it but it does look the part.
@@FlyingRavenStudios Thanks mate, I had an idea to mix it in with Artists Acrylic Matt Gel Medium to get an acrylic based paste similar to the AK stuff used in your vid, its got to be worth a try.
@@FlyingRavenStudios Yeah sure, but it may take some time as I'm currently working on another diorama project at the moment and I'm not the worlds fastest modeller 😊
You might want to try wood pudy/ wood fill because it come in LOTS of colors, you buy as pre-mix can, tub, or tube, and you can buy it as a dry mix. You can also find it at all to most Hardware and/or Lumber stores.
You can absolutely use sand. Mix a fine sand with water, PVA and filler and the paste that you make is just as good as texture paste, but for a fraction of the cost. Experiment with ratios and different aggregates to get different effects
Yeah, you can. As you say, it's finding the right aggregate for the effect and scale you need. Also, finding that recipe that is replicatable for larger projects if you need to make up batches
Now that is an excellent question... obviously it depends on the surface area and depth you are applying. But while I have not been counting, I must have based best part of 50 odd minis to create the dent in the tub you have seen in the video. It should last you quite a while for standard tabletop sized minis!
It's a pretty large tub compared to GW Technical paints. I'm working on a Tomb Kings-like army for Kings of War and have covered several multibases (200mm x 80mm x2 and 100mm x 80mm x 2, around models already placed on the base) and I have barely made a dent. I ordered a second container thinking I'd need it for this project, but likely will not - all of the remaining bases I have to do have a smaller surface area.
i have been using vallejo earth textures, basically same stuff, behaves the same etc.. ... why Vallejo? it was on sale. I would like to see you do a video on how to use Dirty Down moss effects to best... well, effect. keep up the good work 8^)
Still haven't found an AK scenery product that isn't great! The crackle paint is a tad watery, when compared to GW, so harder to apply with a tool (awesome with a brush tbh^^). But the results are great.
what ever you do don't use builders sand as its a damp sand and much harder to used work with. Just use modelling sand, then you can get finer corse sand. Although it's a bit messier but a quick glue and dunk and you're done.
Yeah I used the builders sand as it was what I had to hand. But I have used the glue and dunk techique lots in the past. I found it messy and tricky to use on a tabletop mini for example... especially one that has been glued to the base before painting /basing. If you base and then glue the mini to it, it can look like it is floating on the surface rather than sinking into it. Which is where this stuff excells. However, I want to do a whole series on basing / dioramas where I want to look at the modelling sands etc in more detail. So thank you for the thought!
Haha, that's an interesting question I have not thought of before! It may not be the technical answer (and if there is anyone out there who does know the technical definition, then let me know). But my understanding is that a keyed surface is a smooth surface that has been slightly roughened to give something like paint something to grip to. Whereas a sanded surface COULD describe a rough surface that has been sanded with multiple grades of sand paper to make it smooth. So I guess it's the intent.... are you trying to roughen a smooth surface before applying something like paint, or are you trying to sand a rough surface smooth?
Used this a few times for 1/35 Afrika dios. It's grainy as they put some sand in. IMHO it is out of scale - if you are trying to achieve true accuracy. Sure, desert sand has rocks, etc. but dunes are pure sand. Put a grain of sand in the hand of your 1/35 figure, it is like a pebble. If you want pure sand to scale, this isn't it. Even using it to simulate rocks amongst the sand isn't appropriate as rocks in the desert aren't the same color as the sand. An additional problem is trying to simulate indented footprints as you would see at the beach. Trying to do so on this stuff simply doesn't work and I have tried several methods. The huge downfall of lots of dios is that they don't pay attention to scale, (clearly the manufacturers of this type of stuff aren't paying attention either) if that is important to you. A more appropriate "scale sand" is spackling as it is very fine grained. You have to apply thin so it doesn't crack and paint, preferably airbrush, with tones of sand color.
Thanks, you had some very interesting points here! Yes, as discussed in the video, scale is an issue. While this stuff does have a grainy texture, it is a lot finer than sand (which I agree would look like a small rock to scale). So the result of this is a lot finer than sprinkling sand over your dio base, but I take your point.. Also, if you thin this stuff down, it makes a much smoother result than when its neat which is interesting. I haven't heard of Spakling before. But after a quick google, is it like a woodwork filling compound? We have similar brands in the UK , and I can see the effect you mean and would give you a very smooth result. I guess what you use will really depend on the environment you are trying to depict. Over the years I have had the opportunity to travel all over the world and it always amazes my geeky mind how different, different deserts and beaches are. Even the sand itself can vary hugely in coarseness, texture and how it moves in the same area. Also the moisture content can make a big difference. Your point about footprints in the sand is a very interesting one.... hmm I will have to have a look at that. Thanks!
Great to see at least one persons ideas aren’t based on propaganda and untruths about how we should live our lives, having a passion is great, more please 😊
I can see what you mean by looking like wood filler. But I can say it doesn't handle like any wood filler I have ever used! Also, depending on where you are in the world, brand you buy, etc, I found there isn't a big difference in price to get a similar sized tub. However, it is certainly an interesting thought.... especially for bigger projects and could well be worth experimenting further. So thanks for that! Interestingly, I used to use model filler to create a similar effect and I even did a video on it ages ago. But this stuff is significantly more cost effective than that technique.
I use ak a lot, and they recommend using a slighly damp sponge on the texture while it is still wet. It gets a more realistic finish to the sand effect.
I have not seen that tip yet. Thank you for that!
Helpful tip. I'd not come across that before.
I love this texture paste.
My technique is covering the dried base with agrax earthshade and dotting some black wash in random locations as its drying, then it adds some interesting variation to the colouration of the sand. Then drybrush with a lighter sandy yellow over the top to pick the edges out.
That's an interesting thought. Thanks for that!
While its drying... interesting. I will try this!
Wich color would work for dry brush?
A palette knife is a godsend for larger bases, substantially improves application efficiency. I store things like this in Ziploc bags between uses because the twist tops seldom have the quality required to keep a product on the shelf for a long period of time once its been opened and the "Sealed for your protection" layer is removed.
Yes, a pallete knife is definitely a good shout for larger bases! I personally haven't had any issues with this tub drying out. But a zip lock bag sounds a good idea. Another idea someone suggested was clingfilm under the screw lid to help keep it air tight
Oh yeah saran wrap should work too. I have opened tubs of Vallejo and artist mediums from ~20 years ago still usable because they've been in Ziploc bags away from sunlight. :)
Just a note that Golden Coarse Molding Paste (found in most art supply stores) is functionally the same but in sort of a translucent white--works great for ice/snow and can be painted with regular or contrast paints for other colors that need a scale of texture that best matches tt miniature scale for sand. It's also usually quite a bit cheaper.
Thanks for this. I will take a look!
I've been using the AK interactive range of sand and soil for several years. I've found the best thing to apply the product with is plastic coffee stirrers. I can use the stirrer end for larger areas and the thin end for pushing the product between figures legs and other narrow areas. i paint a lot of 15mm size figures and the narrow end of the stirrer will even get the terrain around them without getting it on the figures.
That's a nice tip, thanks!
Nice to see you back! I like the assorted gunges of the AK diorama range a lot, (since discovering them on your channel) but I have noticed a couple of them seem to be a bit predisposed to drying up in the container, the worst offender being 'Light Earth'. I've found misting it with water before putting the top back on seems to help. 'Rough Terrain' is really useful.The only one in the range I didn't think much of is 'Tarmac'. It really needs to be applied with a palette knife for best effect, which makes using it for miniature bases a bit tricky, and it requires a fair bit of weathering to look convincing. According to the comments on the AK instructional videos, it seems they changed the formula recently, and the old version was better. I've taken to using Peco 'Road Surface' scatter for an 'urban' effect.
I noticed that AK are now selling this stuff in smaller pots with 'Wargame' rather than 'Diorama' on the label.
Thanks Parazatico, I really appreciate that!
Yes I have heard people saying some of the other ones in the range can dry up. But as I haven't tried those yet I cannot really comment. But I will definitely check out that other one you mentioned. Thanks!
Saran wrap underneath the lid prevents some of the drying out.
I'll try that, thanks!@@hansnetterling3512
I wanted to say thanks for the detailed video about this product which I wasn't totally sure how to make the best use of.
Also, at 6:35 I was wondering if the problem is that the surface hadn't been washed off and had some oil on it, rather than that it wasn't primed. Maybe scuffing the other side actually cleaned it off.
You are welcome and I am really glad you found it helpful!
Residual grease on the surface is an interesting thought and being fair, I did not de-grease it before painting. I have used it on other smooth surfaces with a similar result though. So having something for it to grip to is still probably a good way to go with this stuff👍
Nice one 👍just found the channel and enjoyed this. I use this stuff alot and combine it with the Desert Sand (yes theya re actually different 😅) mix as well to achieve a more realisteic look. As someone else has said if you use a damp bush or sponge to "dab" the mix it gives you a reat finish. Scatter in some grit/small stones and some tufts when wet and the effect is great, i'm using it across 2 projects now.
Thanks for the tips! There is loads of stuff I want to try out with this product. One question though, when you say mix them, are you applying the two types of sand effect to the model separately, but while still wet? Or are you mixing them together before application? If so are you mixing them loosly so you still get the colour differentiation or fully combine them?
Based on the title of the video, I was half expecting this to be a taste review of the product.
Haha yeah it's not a good idea to mix up desert and dessert when it comes to paint 😋
That was great! Should I dry brush after applying? And like add nuln oil
Thanks! You can just leave it as is. But you could wash and drybrush if you wanted to. It really depends on the effect you are trying to create!
I got a great big bag of scale sand by sweeping up after I cut Indian sandstone with an angle grinder in my garden. I've yet to use it but it does look the part.
That sounds like it will work well!
@@FlyingRavenStudios Thanks mate, I had an idea to mix it in with Artists Acrylic Matt Gel Medium to get an acrylic based paste similar to the AK stuff used in your vid, its got to be worth a try.
@martinoconnor4314 definitely worth an experiment. Can you let me know how you get on?
@@FlyingRavenStudios Yeah sure, but it may take some time as I'm currently working on another diorama project at the moment and I'm not the worlds fastest modeller 😊
Nice review. Personally I would like to know your opinion about more texture products like AK snow or fire land
Thanks Dues888! I will add them to the list 👍
You might want to try wood pudy/ wood fill because it come in LOTS of colors, you buy as pre-mix can, tub, or tube, and you can buy it as a dry mix. You can also find it at all to most Hardware and/or Lumber stores.
You can absolutely use sand. Mix a fine sand with water, PVA and filler and the paste that you make is just as good as texture paste, but for a fraction of the cost. Experiment with ratios and different aggregates to get different effects
Yeah, you can. As you say, it's finding the right aggregate for the effect and scale you need. Also, finding that recipe that is replicatable for larger projects if you need to make up batches
I m curious on how many models you could base with this material?
it always seems like such a small container hah
Now that is an excellent question... obviously it depends on the surface area and depth you are applying. But while I have not been counting, I must have based best part of 50 odd minis to create the dent in the tub you have seen in the video. It should last you quite a while for standard tabletop sized minis!
It's a pretty large tub compared to GW Technical paints. I'm working on a Tomb Kings-like army for Kings of War and have covered several multibases (200mm x 80mm x2 and 100mm x 80mm x 2, around models already placed on the base) and I have barely made a dent. I ordered a second container thinking I'd need it for this project, but likely will not - all of the remaining bases I have to do have a smaller surface area.
i have been using vallejo earth textures, basically same stuff, behaves the same etc.. ... why Vallejo? it was on sale.
I would like to see you do a video on how to use Dirty Down moss effects to best... well, effect.
keep up the good work 8^)
oops, just found your moss effects video.... ignore that part of the comment. Cheers!
Thanks 😄. Vallejo has some great stuff as well and I want to test them out when I get a chance to👍
And I have bouht the other one :C. Well, it seems cool for a drier desert / beaches.
Still haven't found an AK scenery product that isn't great!
The crackle paint is a tad watery, when compared to GW, so harder to apply with a tool (awesome with a brush tbh^^). But the results are great.
I was just thinking that this stuff would look awesome if you could make it crazy pave like dried out sand 🤔
Hmm, interesting idea!@@FlyingRavenStudios
what ever you do don't use builders sand as its a damp sand and much harder to used work with. Just use modelling sand, then you can get finer corse sand. Although it's a bit messier but a quick glue and dunk and you're done.
Yeah I used the builders sand as it was what I had to hand. But I have used the glue and dunk techique lots in the past. I found it messy and tricky to use on a tabletop mini for example... especially one that has been glued to the base before painting /basing. If you base and then glue the mini to it, it can look like it is floating on the surface rather than sinking into it. Which is where this stuff excells.
However, I want to do a whole series on basing / dioramas where I want to look at the modelling sands etc in more detail. So thank you for the thought!
Good video
Appreciate it!
Why do non American people say a keyed surface when talking about a sanded one? Im curious
Haha, that's an interesting question I have not thought of before! It may not be the technical answer (and if there is anyone out there who does know the technical definition, then let me know). But my understanding is that a keyed surface is a smooth surface that has been slightly roughened to give something like paint something to grip to. Whereas a sanded surface COULD describe a rough surface that has been sanded with multiple grades of sand paper to make it smooth.
So I guess it's the intent.... are you trying to roughen a smooth surface before applying something like paint, or are you trying to sand a rough surface smooth?
Used this a few times for 1/35 Afrika dios. It's grainy as they put some sand in. IMHO it is out of scale - if you are trying to achieve true accuracy. Sure, desert sand has rocks, etc. but dunes are pure sand. Put a grain of sand in the hand of your 1/35 figure, it is like a pebble. If you want pure sand to scale, this isn't it. Even using it to simulate rocks amongst the sand isn't appropriate as rocks in the desert aren't the same color as the sand. An additional problem is trying to simulate indented footprints as you would see at the beach. Trying to do so on this stuff simply doesn't work and I have tried several methods. The huge downfall of lots of dios is that they don't pay attention to scale, (clearly the manufacturers of this type of stuff aren't paying attention either) if that is important to you. A more appropriate "scale sand" is spackling as it is very fine grained. You have to apply thin so it doesn't crack and paint, preferably airbrush, with tones of sand color.
Thanks, you had some very interesting points here! Yes, as discussed in the video, scale is an issue. While this stuff does have a grainy texture, it is a lot finer than sand (which I agree would look like a small rock to scale). So the result of this is a lot finer than sprinkling sand over your dio base, but I take your point.. Also, if you thin this stuff down, it makes a much smoother result than when its neat which is interesting.
I haven't heard of Spakling before. But after a quick google, is it like a woodwork filling compound? We have similar brands in the UK , and I can see the effect you mean and would give you a very smooth result.
I guess what you use will really depend on the environment you are trying to depict. Over the years I have had the opportunity to travel all over the world and it always amazes my geeky mind how different, different deserts and beaches are. Even the sand itself can vary hugely in coarseness, texture and how it moves in the same area. Also the moisture content can make a big difference.
Your point about footprints in the sand is a very interesting one.... hmm I will have to have a look at that. Thanks!
Peanut 🥜 butter 😋
Haha yeah but I wouldnt recommend it 😄
Great to see at least one persons ideas aren’t based on propaganda and untruths about how we should live our lives, having a passion is great, more please 😊
It looks exactly like wood putty or wood filler for carpentry projects. Lesson, go to the hardware store and save a lot of money! LOL
I can see what you mean by looking like wood filler. But I can say it doesn't handle like any wood filler I have ever used! Also, depending on where you are in the world, brand you buy, etc, I found there isn't a big difference in price to get a similar sized tub. However, it is certainly an interesting thought.... especially for bigger projects and could well be worth experimenting further. So thanks for that!
Interestingly, I used to use model filler to create a similar effect and I even did a video on it ages ago. But this stuff is significantly more cost effective than that technique.
@FlyingRavenStudios Also, the wood filler is mineral spirits, acetone, or something like that based, so it's toxic too.
That is a valid point
A lot of pointless yapping just to show lack of modelling skill and knowledge. Wargamers keep embarrassing themselves
Glad you enjoyed it!