Complex surfaces is where it's a lot easier to work with Tamiya comparing to standard hardware store tapes It would be great also check othwr hobby-marketed tapes from different price ranges.
The purple tape is great stuff! At my local hardware store, they actually have a variety of widths. I can confirm about leaving it in place, I had a project I left it of for 3 weeks or so, absolutely no issues.
Yeah it certainly surprised me! Actually, just looking again, I found a few widths, but not down to the 5 or 10mm. What is the narrowest you have found?
@FlyingRavenStudios The smallest I've found is the one you have. I've found bigger, useful for ships and vehicles. I just cut mine to width using the grid on my cutting mat.
The trouble with standard masking tape is that the stickiness varies a lot between brands or even different batches of the same brand. Sometimes it falls off if you look at it funny, sometimes you need a blow torch to shift it. I concluded years ago that all makes of masking tape hate me, and fortunately I seldom spray anything anyway. I've never tried masking putty, but that looks quite interesting. I have a 'How to paint miniatures' book that suggests using white-tac, which seems like it might be a jolly bad idea.
Haha I know what you mean with the random DIY tape. Sometimes it falls off if you get the masking tape wet, other times it will go all gooey and weld itself on. I saw some.of the masking putties which looked very intriguing. But I decided to keep the focus on straight edges for this one... painting curves is a whole other rabbit hole to go down 😄
I don't know what White-Tac is, but I once used Blu-Tack as a mask, but removing it was too difficult. It required a blade and chunky material was left on the edges that couldn't be removed if the mask shape was to be preserved. I did this on a dozer blade so it was fine in the end by covering it with dirt and grime.
@@BurnInFerNos1 As far as I can tell, the only difference between the two is the colour!. The book I have (from Andrea miniatures) shows the technique being used on a 54mm Ronin miniature, prior to airbrushing, (if I'm remembering correctly) and I can't see any way that wouldn't end badly.
Is there any particular tests regarding masking you would like me to look at?
Complex surfaces is where it's a lot easier to work with Tamiya comparing to standard hardware store tapes
It would be great also check othwr hobby-marketed tapes from different price ranges.
Will see what I can do! Thanks!
The purple tape is great stuff! At my local hardware store, they actually have a variety of widths. I can confirm about leaving it in place, I had a project I left it of for 3 weeks or so, absolutely no issues.
Yeah it certainly surprised me! Actually, just looking again, I found a few widths, but not down to the 5 or 10mm. What is the narrowest you have found?
@FlyingRavenStudios The smallest I've found is the one you have. I've found bigger, useful for ships and vehicles. I just cut mine to width using the grid on my cutting mat.
The trouble with standard masking tape is that the stickiness varies a lot between brands or even different batches of the same brand. Sometimes it falls off if you look at it funny, sometimes you need a blow torch to shift it. I concluded years ago that all makes of masking tape hate me, and fortunately I seldom spray anything anyway. I've never tried masking putty, but that looks quite interesting. I have a 'How to paint miniatures' book that suggests using white-tac, which seems like it might be a jolly bad idea.
Haha I know what you mean with the random DIY tape. Sometimes it falls off if you get the masking tape wet, other times it will go all gooey and weld itself on.
I saw some.of the masking putties which looked very intriguing. But I decided to keep the focus on straight edges for this one... painting curves is a whole other rabbit hole to go down 😄
I don't know what White-Tac is, but I once used Blu-Tack as a mask, but removing it was too difficult. It required a blade and chunky material was left on the edges that couldn't be removed if the mask shape was to be preserved. I did this on a dozer blade so it was fine in the end by covering it with dirt and grime.
@@BurnInFerNos1 As far as I can tell, the only difference between the two is the colour!. The book I have (from Andrea miniatures) shows the technique being used on a 54mm Ronin miniature, prior to airbrushing, (if I'm remembering correctly) and I can't see any way that wouldn't end badly.