Paul, after seeing the 3 machines of yours James opened up in this vid, I would strongly suggest you invest in some d-Con. It'll save you a lot of cash (and frustration) in the long run.
@@TheOtherBill I actually got a bag of this extra strong rodent killer and spread it in the garden tool shed where my equipment is housed all year. I’m in the process of having a 2-car garage installed on my property that will have a large storage and work area in the rear. All the power equipment will soon be moved there permanently in this nice new and heavily sealed building.
@@PaulMack1249 Disgusting but true story: I had mice but the final straw was when one family settled in the car's A/C ducts. It must have been in the blower one day when I started the car ... a few weeks later the smell was so bad I paid a few hundred to have a shop totally disassemble the dash and wash out all the chopped up mouse pieces and disinfect the whole ventilation system. It still smelled a year later so I traded it in. Now I religiously d-CON every spring and fall and haven't had a problem since. In the fall they sneak in whenever the door is open.
Don't worry about long format, many of us really like all the details and enjoy it that way, commiserate with the frustrations, and completely understand ordering more parts once we've "dived in"!!
“Hey guys, welcome back” That phrase somehow always cheers me up. 😊 I don’t think anyone will complain that you’ve decided to split this project up into two videos after 1 hour, 45 minutes! 😁
Thanks for the reminder to avoid servicing newer Cub Cadets, Jim. I recently had a 1989 Cub Hydro 1210 with a Kohler in for service. Thing was built like a tank and ran, mowed and drove great great. It had a direct shaft drive! They don't make em like that anymore. ☹️
Just got an older Kubota lawn tractor cheap. Said it had an oil leak. It emptied the crankcase in one minute. The upper seal disintegrated due to the upper bearing being worn out, it also destroyed the stator, and all the flywheel magnets came off in hudreds of pieces. It was a major engine disassembly to repair it. Runs like new now. Have watched a few of your videos and know the frustrations of all these little problems turning into major headaches. Keep up the good work. You are very relaxing to watch.
I must say that you have a lot of patience. There were several times when I would have easily lost my temper, yet you remained incredibly calm. Well done! Thanks for sharing!
That’s a big 10-4, Jim has more patience than me. Whenever I have something that kicks my butt I just put it down, after making a few expletives. I am a Marine, so you know what their tone will be. I sleep on the problem and try to come up with a better approach. The worst thing that I ever worked on was a Model 88 Winchester rifle - I was a gunsmith for 35 years. I could not get its lever system back in, correctly. You have to use “blind pins” on it. I ended up using kitchen match sticks for these blind pins until I could drive in the metal ones. It took me over a week to get it back together and working correctly, but I did.
I've been watching your videos for years now. They are the best. They are concise, descriptive, and show a lot of the decision making processes that turn failed repair attempts into successful ones. Was hoping you could throw in a generator/genset maintenance video for us Floridians in the peak of our hurricane season. Thank you James - keep up the great work!
I know. Just realized though I have a lot of summer equipment that needs fixing and summer is almost over so will be a few weeks before getting back to the generators.
@@jcondon1 haven't had to mow much the last couple weeks due to the drought. My mowing season will start up again once we get some rain, then taper off in November, due to less light. Don't forget, you have a lot of viewers down South, as well! Perhaps a video on putting the summer equipment into storage properly wouldn't be amiss, either.
You have the patients of a Saint, James. This one has fought you all the way and cost you a pretty penny. However, I'm sure it will be worth it in the end. Looking forward to the next time, thanks for sharing.
Surprising Kawasaki parts for this engine are pretty reasonable. Still a larger investment then planned. That is why I do not work on too many tractors. Lots of thing to wear out and replace when they get old.
I have always found that Cub Cadet mowers are the best when they work, and the worst when repairs are needed, especially electrical problems. Seems you always have to move/remove 2 things to get the bolt/part you need. Looking forward to the final rebuild/reveal of this mower. Thanks for sharing.
Oh my. That little steering problem bloomed into a project more difficult than the Go-Cart! Plus, although reminiscent of other small engine repairs you have done, this one had more unknowns than usual. You have remarkable patience! Thanks for sharing!
My Dad had an old Cub Cadet. When I married my wife, she came from a long line of John Deere employees. She said that our first mower could be anything as long as it was green. After many years we are on our fourth Deere, a all-wheel drive, all-wheel steer tractor with a 60 inch deck and a snow plow. I look at this video and what looks like a very cheaply built machine and am thankful that ours is greeen. Goog videos Mr. Condon !
What a job this has become including a couple of rides on the struggle bus. A fascinating journey and I am anxious to see you cross the finish line on this one. Thanks for bringing us along.
As always, good work James. Here is a tip when lifting and you don’t want to squeeze or crush what you’re work, try using a spreader bar between the straps above the object, a 2X 4 works great. Just make sure you put something on the ends so the straps slip off. Take care Ray
Hi James , I own a cub cadet , bought it new back in 1995. Still going. The front bracket that supports the mower deck has been fitted upside down, hence it hitting the steering linkage. Your doing a great job reviving the machine, when fixed and setup properly they mow really well. Cheers Rob from Australia
You had me actually laughing out loud with the clever insert.I often wondered if you and Mustie1 were from the same area with all the toys you accumulate for repairs.Yours and his among my favorite channels.👍🏻
This is typical of the quagmire you can fall in to when repairing/restoring an old piece of machinery.. The more you look the more you see and the dollars keep piling up!! My experience anyway !! Great video, James ! I appreciate your attention to detail and your dedication to "doing it right"!! Can't tell you how much I've learned from your videos! Keep em coming!!! Many thanks.!
Your videos are very detailed and informative. I have learnt so much from watching you dismantle and rebuild engines, generators, lawn movers and snow blowers. Thank you so much for very educational and useful videos. Much appreciated!
This one is timely. I'm now resurrecting my old mid-80's vintage Snapper RER, that has been stored under my house for nearly 30 years, and recording and posting the adventure. I think mine will be at least 3 parts, if not 4. (HAHA! Loved the Mustie1 shout out).
Thanks Jim for the video, which gives a good sample of how mechanically intensive these riding mowers are, especially the type with traditional steering. For such repairs, I usually budget at least 3 times more repair time in my estimates, due to the other unplanned problems you find along the way. This mower is probably typical of how the average person maintains their mower: minimal/no maintenance, then buy a new one when a major failure occurs. I may be more mechanically minded though and was raised to take good care of my equipment (a bonus from having parents that grew up during the Depression in broken homes), which is probably why still have my 1969 Lawn Boy mower I used as a teenager.
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq Hi John, I don't use the Lawn Boy (2 cycle engine) that often since it uses twice the gas as a newer 4 cycle mower. Also, it has 2 problems I haven't been able to solve so far. That being the wheel axles are totally worn out and I haven't been able to find a suitable replacement due to the odd size and universal replacements don't fit. Problem 2 involves the carburetor; these mowers were notorious for drifting mixture problems as the mower warms up. I have rebuilt the carb several times over the years but, this problem still remains. To fix it properly, I think would require a retrofit using a proven new carb, which would be a major refit on this mower. The last time I rebuilt the engine was 2016 and the reed valve was clean and had minimal wear. However, the exhaust port was 75% blocked by carbon build-up. This 2016 overhaul was the first time the engine had been apart. Interestingly, the Lawn Boy maintenance procedure requires exhaust port cleaning annually. This procedure was built around using a straight 30W motor in the oil gas/oil mix, since there was no oil specifically designed for 2 strokes in that day (1969). I haven't had that much trouble with fouling spark plugs. One reason for this is I set the spark plug gap to .040 to .045" after getting the ignition system in prime condition. The wider gap than stock causes a hotter spark which keeps the plug cleaner and enables the engine to run better with lean mixtures.
@@billharris6886 My father put me in charge of our lawnboy mower when I was 8 in 1963 and I kept it running well until I gave it to a collector in 2008. IIRC the wheel axles are peened over in an X shape to stake them in the adjuster quadrants... I just drilled a small hole in the outer end of the axle and used a large washer and cotter pin as the "retainer" for the well worn wheels...(hole for cotter pin drilled where the "C" clip groove was as it had been totally worn away.) As for the "drift" in carb tuning... I used the adjuster needle to give just the right mixture to stop 4 stroking...the engine "sings" when it is just right.... We are lucky that we have a temperate climate and I always used the mower at just above sea level so no great variation in air density...more or less "set and forget"... I used TCW2 (air cooled 2 stroke engine) premium modern 2 stroke oil in the mix... this really cut down on the carbon buildup in the exhaust port and in the under deck muffler... plus there was a drastic reduction in the visible smoke...... If it's good enough for the far higher output and stressed Stihl chainsaw....it's good for the Lawn Boy... Cheers..
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq Thanks John for recounting your experiences with the Lawn Boy mower plus, advice for the problems I mentioned. It sounds like we are the same age, I was born in 1955 and, having grown up in Florida (Melbourne, Palm Bay, and Miami), got a lot of experience cutting grass starting at age 8. My dad liked 2 strokes so, only bought these until manufacturing ceased. My older brother still has the 2 stroke Craftsman mower dad bought in 1957. We also owned a 1962 Lawn Boy, self propelled with floating front wheels. The 1969 Lawn Boy I have is a basic push mower, with the 109cc engine. It has different axles than you mentioned, they are 3.5" long, 1/2" diameter bolts, necked down to a 3/8-16 thread at the bolt end. Not finding a replacement, I have looked at the possibly of using a 3/8 bolt and sliding a 1/2" sleeve over it but, haven't found a suitable size sleeve yet. Of course all this is low priority since I have 2 other push mowers and a large zero-turn mower.
Glad I found this channel-no headbanging metal or rap "almost" music; and no lame jokes, cussing or non-stop talking-just calm informative discussion w/o constantly being asked to subscribe/upvote. In fact, I don't watch the video first and then decide if I want to give a thumbs up-now I just click 👍 and then start watching-haven't been disappointed yet. Well done James and a 👍 as always. God bless.
I just fixed the steering on a 21 year old craftsman lawn tractor. Same type curved rack with a pinion gear. Easier to access than that cub. Love your channel
I had to chuckle at the beginning of the video when you turned the wheel and heard the familiar sound of a stripped rack and pinion steering on a Cub Cadet. I have one in my garage right now waiting for me to repair it for the same problem. I have never in my life seen a more poorly designed and manufactured part on a lawn mower in my life, and I've owned several.
I did a John Deere that was set up the same way. I used a open end wrench to get on the nuts without having to remove the plate. My Mountain Wrench set really helped. Looks like you’re going to have to pull the engine to replace the output shaft seal. At least you don’t have the deck with the timing belt. It’s a nightmare. Great work as usual Jim!
Sheesh, what a journey! I’ve had one or two this summer that were like this, seemed like a couple of minor things but turned out to be one thing after another after another! Very challenging but you have the patience of a saint!
James, many of your videos helped me finally fix an inexpensive generator that has been plaguing us since we bought it at an auction. It would run but surged. I cleaned the jets w carb cleaner and air but no dice. I ordered a carb cleaning kit on Amazon and cleaned every orifice in that carb but still no dice. I noticed a screw that controls the governor was sticking out past the metal flange for a couple of threads and that screw was causing the surge thru the governor. I tightened that screw up and fiddled with it a little bit and now it runs perfect! I hooked up a couple space heaters to make sure the generator does what it’s supposed to do. Thx so much.
Any type of rider has to be maintained at least once or twice a year or the list of repairs can get ridiculous like this poor old machine. I own a John Deere X584 and they also need constant TLC to keep them running well. I also use my Deere year round so it needs more love than just a summer rider. Don't forget to service the transmission but they need to be removed to drain the oil so I don't thing you want to go into deep if it's working at this time. My wife always ask me why I'm working on my tractor so much, I think I'm going to show her this video and she will understand. Thanks for the great content James.
To remove B remove C, to remove C remove D to remove D remove E .... To remove ZZ remove AAA. This was one of these '5 minute' jobs that rapidly vanished over the horizon without an end. Excellent pacience and persistence on this one!
Hey James..i have a cub cadet identical to yours..it has 390 hrs on it same motor..I've never had a problem with it just regular maintenance..I've replaced other Cubs steering gears and it's no party took a couple of hours but i got it done..i replaced both bushings on the steering shaft..it drove like new..good tractor..
Tractor tires are a pain. Had a slow leak in one, ended up using an intertube. Worked great. Another youtuber had a good video on installing the intertube. Always enjoy your videos.
All your videos are awesome. I always learn a lot from them. Thanks for the time and effort you put into these! One thing I’ve learned over the years…I have a 29 year old Craftsman riding mower that always had a couple flat tires after winter storing, and I used to do all that bead cleaning and re-inflation routine a couple times a year. I even bought new tires, but they did the same thing after a few years. I stopped trying to get a seal on these old rims and just put inner tubes in them. This was MUCH more reliable and I haven’t had another flat tire for over 10 YEARS!
James: You probably already know this, but if you pull out the lever at the back of the mower, shaped at a 90 degree angle, you can free wheel the tractor without starting the engine. Great video and many thanks.
Excellent video as always, James. Great idea to raise the front end for access to the belt. FWIW, an alternate method was done by Taryl to gain access in a video. He just tilted the machine over 45 degrees on it's right side (carb up, oil filler up, gas cap up) and rested the steering wheel on a chair or something. I did it on my Troy-bilt to change the belt and it worked great. You may need an assistant to help tilt it up.
You opened up a big can of worms on this one. As someone below suggested, it might be a good idea to change the crank seals while you can get to them. Especially the one you had to heat. Looking forward to the next episode.
Those Kawasaki motors Are very nice very reliable. My uncle has pretty much the same engine but it 17 hp on his John Deere tractor. Got a lot of hours on it. Still going good.
Well you can see why most these cubs get retired at this point to the spare pile. The last cub drive belt I replaced I loosened the engine mounting bolts then rocked the engine up slightly and was able to easily slide the belt on. Its common to see where people have tried to cut the keepers off or pound them out of the way or deform the pulley while attempting to remove. I always enjoy your vids.
I had a smile on my face when James was trying to get that pulley off. I had the exact same issue on a '99 Troy Bilt all the while laying upside down on the floor. Using a hoist is brilliant. Did everything knew to do but wound up pulling the engine. Still had to use heat, etc, but still destroyed the pulley. 1 thing to keep in mind when applying the heat. There is a rubber seal on the engine shaft. Melt that, and you've got a whole nother issue. Very frustrating
Hello James. The next time you run into small fasteners that tend to be stuckand may snap off, like coil bolts; get your hammer and a drive punch and give them 4-6 solid hits(if you have access). It almost always breaks the corrosion and frees them up(on the small fasteners primarily). And as you already know, of course the penetrant. This has saved me a lot of extra work, fixing broken off bolts. Great videos, I really enjoy watching.
Great video! Can’t wait to see the rest. I had one of those great machine, had a snow blower attachment with a wind screen with tire weights and chains , only difference I had a 20 hp Kohler engine and 52 in mow deck. Loved it.
I am a new viewer (5 ~ 6 videos viewed). I am very impressed by your skill and decision-making process. I have also learned that patience is a virtual necessity when performing mechanical repairs. Thanks for the educational experience you have provided!
This Cub has turned into a money pit. It looks good on the outside, I have sunk too much into projects before. Did you know from the beginning it would need this much love and parts? Would it have made a difference if you did? I love watching you work....
Great Video as always James!! They make Hub Pullers which grab onto that center hub you were putting the heat on with set screws. That's what I use. I bought mine from the HVAC Supply House, as my main business is heating service & repair. You might want to replace the Crank Seal while your in there due to the heat exposure during the pully removal process. Best of Luck....................
I probably should have replaced that seal (did not order one). At least the pulley will be easier to remove the next time since I will put some anti-seize on. Will check out the hub puller. Don't do many tractors, but still a good investment given how difficult it can be without the proper tool. Thanks.
Great video as always, I always get a little concerned when you have to start releasing Fly Wheels and Oil Pressure sensors on older machines, you wonder where it will end. At least it led to fixing a host of other problems, and allowing access for a good clean.
At the very least, it helps teach all of us a bit of patience... I know I could use a double dose!! Thorough... Thanks for these videos. I am already gaining benefits on things around here.
Not sure if you are aware but those side panels are removable. Remove the nut on the skinny rod at the rear of the side panel. The front either unclips or there is another nut/bolt up front. That will make your access to the engine area a whole lot easier. I would also replace all the idlers. They may spin free but the bearings are dry and will be noisy. I acquired a 2145 that I did all the same things to, what a pain. Doin' great!
Looking forward to seeing the video of your work on that Champion Dual Fuel generator in your storage locker. I have the same unit. So far, a great machine. Thanks for the video.
Not sure there is much I can do with it. Less then two years old and the engine locked up. I could repower it with a 389 or 420cc engine, but that model uses a larger 459cc engine. So would fall a little short of the wattage it was capable of.
Great channel James! As a retired Chicago Firefighter I worry about your indoor gas can farm. You might want to look into reconditioning a flammable liquids cabinet (50 gal cap). I hope this helps you.
Hi James, Know what your going through with the mower, Did it for my daughter a few years ago. They should be called Cub CA DEBT. Thanks for the videos. Gord.
You do not cut corners at all. You fix everything, and replace everything that needs it. Most guys just fix it "enough". I think it's cool that you do that. You don't sell or use Junk!!!! You make it, as new.
Haven't had time to read all the comments yet on this fix as I watch on my TV and hard to interact with comments. I little trick on doing small equipment tires is to remove the tire from the back side of the rim as the offset is smaller. Also lifting what would be the front side of the tire into the skinny space of the rim offsets gives you the room not to have to stretch the bead to remove it. Also the rims you removed with the plastic spacers you can get bearings for at TSC in the specialty unit and bolt drawers. They tap in from outside in. Love your videos and you are very thorough and solve many problems that seem impossible.
1:00:45 as a retired aircraft fitter I winced at the split pin ends 1/2 bent back. Many a drop of blood spilt on the barbs. I personally think I would snip of part of one tang, rotate the pin 90 degrees and bend the other tang over the end of the shaft. Just a personal observation, each to his (or her) own. Have a nice day from the soggy UK😊
Can't really tell from the video but when you were tiring to remove the heat shield I usually keep old junk sockets and grind down the outer diameter of the socket and make a thin wall socket. It looks like you wouldn't have had to remove the fly wheel if you did that. A crows foot would have worked also. But by removing the flywheel you got to clean the cooling fins on the engine a lot better. Great video I would have given it up for dead along time ago. Thanks for sharing.🍻
Quick way to polish shafts like that is to put that Scotch Brite around the shaft like you had it, them put a snug fitting socket over it. Attach that to a drill and it gets the job done really quickly. I have even gone as far as getting old cracked larger sockets and putting 1 or 2 small 3/8" strips of the hook side of Velcro long ways into the socket to grab the Scotch Brite pad better and it did really well.
Lol I thot an engine swap on a 16 hp toro was a great feat with a b&s 14.5 and custom gagetry. Lol that new 19hp jondeer S110 sure looks purdy now! Much quieter all round and cleanest running engine ever!
Iv had an old huskee (basically the same as this down to the parts) mower for almost 10 years and mow 5 acres. Iv spent as much time under it as i have using it. It does a great job. Watching this is like deja vu. I never did get the drive pulley off, but did bugger it and straighten it. Ill say you made the right move, my belt will need replaced after 3 seasons and i lost a lot of speed. I spread it too far apart and the belt sits low. Slips easy as well. Youre a bigger man than me, but at least i know how to go about it this time
I would suggest that with as much land as you have to create a "French Drain Pad" where you scoop out native soil and replace it with gravel (like for a septic system), cover that with finer rock, and cover that with coarse, cheap, sand. You now have a place to pressure wash all your greasy projects like the Cadet. Every five or so years, scoop it all out and take it to the dump, and then refill. (You could even put another layer of septic rock over the sand for a super job)
The engine upper oil seal is obviously leaky, and I would be worried about the lower one also especially after the heat treatment. Now would be an excellent time to replace both. Good on you for pulling the lower cooling shrouds to get to the clogged fins you can't see from the top. Also might be a good idea to make sure the crankcase breather is unobstructed.
I agree and was thinking the same about the lower seal after the heat to get the pulley off. I was enCouraged when this one had the Kawasaki and didn't have the Kohler Courage engine, but jt obviously turned into a much bigger project...as many of them do.
1000 Series Cub Cadet owner here. LT 1050. I didn't have the tools necessary to pull the drive belt pulley off of the main shaft... so I had the dealership do it. They had to cut it off and in the process they had to replace the main seal up above it... because it's plastic. I don't know if yours is the same way... but you might want to think about a main seal if you haven't already slapped it all back together. On the other hand, my engine is a Kohler Command so maybe the main seal is fine. One of the biggest pains in the rear end that I had was replacing the missing return spring for the parking brake. In order to get it into position you have to completely compress it... which took me several hours to figure out how to do because there is NO room at all without pulling that bottom plate off. Of course the solution was fairly simple. It was just a couple of small zip ties on either side of the spring... slide into place... and then cut the zip ties out of the way. I could go on and on... still cheaper than a new one though. 😂
Definitely cheaper then a new one. I am surprised the crank seal is still good. Always a good idea to replace. At least it will be easy to get the pulley off when the seal does fail now that there is anti-seize.
Hello James: Once again enjoying watchig you battle the machine. This one had some hidden surprises. I expect you are gojng to put the machine up for sale when completed. You are replacing many items you could just repair if you were going to keep the unit for yourself. Ex. Air intake cover while damaged is still functional. Coil wire again damaged but a decent RTV and or tape repair would work it was working. The tires could of had tubes put in them.(I am located in Canada a tube is about $12-15 a new tire $40.) It is a garden tractor as long as the tires hold air they should be ok. I liked your comments about the difficulty of changing small rim tires without a holding fixture of some type. Give me a 13-21 rim any day. 6-12 inch rims not a .ot of fun. Now the shroud piece missing and cooling issues it could cause is a good find and a decent repair well justified. The dipstick tube is a great candidate for the soldering iron and a little plastic weld repair. The blades are left without an anti rotation bolt or key on purpose so that when you hit somethig the impact will slip the blade and pulley will slip on belt to avoid serious damage to the machine. Looking forward to part 2 to see just how deep you have to go to satisfy yourself that the machine is ready to be put back into service. Keep up the good work and great videos. This viewer really enjoys both your's and Mustie's videos.
There are many ways to repair this at a lower cost. Since I will eventually sell, want it to be safe. Still do not like the spindle design. Seems dangerous.
Great video. The parts and labor has surpassed the value of the tractor. I think the steering went, then the tree. Cubs has a very strong following and I have one also. I tried to pull that very same drive pully and just gave up. Good luck, see ya next time.
A Harbor Freight tire changer is a fairly good investment, and it could be mounted on a pallet, then disassembled for storage, and the pallet stored upright. I would suggest a piece of plywood being added to the top of the pallet for better support, and for foot placement.
Only you James.... Only you could possibly have a matching yellow crow bar, as we call them here in Britain! 😅😅 Are you asking Father Christmas for a battery powered right angle ½ wrench ? 😅 You certainly deserve one! Best thing about your videos is that you never skimp on what's really necessary and important for a successful outcome! 🤔👌 Can't wait for part 2!
I love your channel. The way you explain everything in detail is great. Never thought I could watch a how to video for a hour and a half. Can’t wait to see the follow up
From what ive seen on Taryls videos,you need to quench the part much more after heating it. This is one of your best videos,I enjoyed it very much,thank you!!
I truely enjoy watching your video’s & when I do a repair I try to think of every possible issue that could rear its ugly head because of something I needed to do to finish the repair. My concern here was the amount of heat needed to remove the crank pulley? The crank seal behind the pulley had to have been cooked,shouldn’t the crank seal be replaced? May all your repairs be easier than this one! Great job!
Great! Thanks as always. I noticed the pressure washer in the shed and wonder if that's a future project. It would be great to learn a bit of what you know about servicing pumps! Fwiw I know that sock in the gut when disassembling and something goes sproing, instantly turning an N hour job into 3N . Been there too many times.
I'm always intrigued by your work such that I seldom think about the camera and lighting that you Always get just perfect! Don't know how you do it but it must add a bunch of time to your content creation. We all appreciate it as it is so good we forget to mention it. I like your red travel wrench set. Where did it come from and would you recommend it?
I knew if anyone could bring life back to my old Cub it would be Jim. As for my favorite apple tree….R.I.P.
Paul, after seeing the 3 machines of yours James opened up in this vid, I would strongly suggest you invest in some d-Con. It'll save you a lot of cash (and frustration) in the long run.
Was it a, uh, six beer job that caused the apple tree incident?
@@TheOtherBill I actually got a bag of this extra strong rodent killer and spread it in the garden tool shed where my equipment is housed all year. I’m in the process of having a 2-car garage installed on my property that will have a large storage and work area in the rear. All the power equipment will soon be moved there permanently in this nice new and heavily sealed building.
@@KaldekBoch No…just stupidity! I cut it too close while the steering was already sloppy and I couldn’t recover in time.
@@PaulMack1249 Disgusting but true story: I had mice but the final straw was when one family settled in the car's A/C ducts. It must have been in the blower one day when I started the car ... a few weeks later the smell was so bad I paid a few hundred to have a shop totally disassemble the dash and wash out all the chopped up mouse pieces and disinfect the whole ventilation system. It still smelled a year later so I traded it in. Now I religiously d-CON every spring and fall and haven't had a problem since. In the fall they sneak in whenever the door is open.
Don't worry about long format, many of us really like all the details and enjoy it that way, commiserate with the frustrations, and completely understand ordering more parts once we've "dived in"!!
Long format great. Learn more. Youre a gem as a mechanical advisor for us raised by moms. Thank you
“Hey guys, welcome back”
That phrase somehow always cheers me up. 😊
I don’t think anyone will complain that you’ve decided to split this project up into two videos after 1 hour, 45 minutes! 😁
I to very much like the cheerful “ Welcome back “ greetings! 👍
James, you're a trooper. It's very satisfying to watch you leave NO stone unturned. Thank you for making consistently great content!
Thanks for the reminder to avoid servicing newer Cub Cadets, Jim. I recently had a 1989 Cub Hydro 1210 with a Kohler in for service. Thing was built like a tank and ran, mowed and drove great great. It had a direct shaft drive! They don't make em like that anymore. ☹️
Everything in that storage is junk.
Just got an older Kubota lawn tractor cheap. Said it had an oil leak. It emptied the crankcase in one minute. The upper seal disintegrated due to the upper bearing being worn out, it also destroyed the stator, and all the flywheel magnets came off in hudreds of pieces. It was a major engine disassembly to repair it. Runs like new now. Have watched a few of your videos and know the frustrations of all these little problems turning into major headaches. Keep up the good work. You are very relaxing to watch.
I must say that you have a lot of patience. There were several times when I would have easily lost my temper, yet you remained incredibly calm. Well done! Thanks for sharing!
That's the advantage of video editing! Much patience and time involved.
I'm learning to be more patient with things after seeing James' attitude.
That’s a big 10-4, Jim has more patience than me. Whenever I have something that kicks my butt I just put it down, after making a few expletives. I am a Marine, so you know what their tone will be. I sleep on the problem and try to come up with a better approach. The worst thing that I ever worked on was a Model 88 Winchester rifle - I was a gunsmith for 35 years. I could not get its lever system back in, correctly. You have to use “blind pins” on it. I ended up using kitchen match sticks for these blind pins until I could drive in the metal ones. It took me over a week to get it back together and working correctly, but I did.
I've been watching your videos for years now. They are the best. They are concise, descriptive, and show a lot of the decision making processes that turn failed repair attempts into successful ones. Was hoping you could throw in a generator/genset maintenance video for us Floridians in the peak of our hurricane season. Thank you James - keep up the great work!
I know. Just realized though I have a lot of summer equipment that needs fixing and summer is almost over so will be a few weeks before getting back to the generators.
@@jcondon1 haven't had to mow much the last couple weeks due to the drought. My mowing season will start up again once we get some rain, then taper off in November, due to less light. Don't forget, you have a lot of viewers down South, as well! Perhaps a video on putting the summer equipment into storage properly wouldn't be amiss, either.
You have the patients of a Saint, James. This one has fought you all the way and cost you a pretty penny. However, I'm sure it will be worth it in the end. Looking forward to the next time, thanks for sharing.
Surprising Kawasaki parts for this engine are pretty reasonable. Still a larger investment then planned. That is why I do not work on too many tractors. Lots of thing to wear out and replace when they get old.
Saint James! 😆
I have always found that Cub Cadet mowers are the best when they work, and the worst when repairs are needed, especially electrical problems.
Seems you always have to move/remove 2 things to get the bolt/part you need.
Looking forward to the final rebuild/reveal of this mower.
Thanks for sharing.
Oh my. That little steering problem bloomed into a project more difficult than the Go-Cart! Plus, although reminiscent of other small engine repairs you have done, this one had more unknowns than usual. You have remarkable patience! Thanks for sharing!
My Dad had an old Cub Cadet. When I married my wife, she came from a long line of John Deere employees. She said that our first mower could be anything as long as it was green. After many years we are on our fourth Deere, a all-wheel drive, all-wheel steer tractor with a 60 inch deck and a snow plow. I look at this video and what looks like a very cheaply built machine and am thankful that ours is greeen. Goog videos Mr. Condon !
What a job this has become including a couple of rides on the struggle bus. A fascinating journey and I am anxious to see you cross the finish line on this one. Thanks for bringing us along.
As always, good work James.
Here is a tip when lifting and you don’t want to squeeze or crush what you’re work, try using a spreader bar between the straps above the object, a 2X 4 works great. Just make sure you put something on the ends so the straps slip off.
Take care
Ray
Your perseverance my friend is out of this world thanks again for a masterclass
Hi James , I own a cub cadet , bought it new back in 1995. Still going. The front bracket that supports the mower deck has been fitted upside down, hence it hitting the steering linkage. Your doing a great job reviving the machine, when fixed and setup properly they mow really well. Cheers Rob from Australia
Thanks! I realized that after I finished the second video when editing it together. That will solve the issue.
You had me actually laughing out loud with the clever insert.I often wondered if you and Mustie1 were from the same area with all the toys you accumulate for repairs.Yours and his among my favorite channels.👍🏻
Somewhat close. I grew up about 20 minutes away from where he is now. But moved and now about 3 hours away.
Agree, =[ insert reply here ].
As we of a certain generation here in old Blighty would say "oooh, MATRON"😂
Sorry. I appreciate that James speaks like a gentleman. Leave the tacky jokes to Mustie1.
This is typical of the quagmire you can fall in to when repairing/restoring an old piece of machinery.. The more you look the more you see and the dollars keep piling up!! My experience anyway !! Great video, James ! I appreciate your attention to detail and your dedication to "doing it right"!! Can't tell you how much I've learned from your videos! Keep em coming!!! Many thanks.!
All it takes is time and the patience of JOB. Thanks for not giving up.
Your videos are very detailed and informative. I have learnt so much from watching you dismantle and rebuild engines, generators, lawn movers and snow blowers. Thank you so much for very educational and useful videos. Much appreciated!
LMFAO - Mustie1 joke. Was way ahead of you brother. Too funny
This thing just kept on getting bigger and bigger! Can’t wait for the follow-up.
This one is timely. I'm now resurrecting my old mid-80's vintage Snapper RER, that has been stored under my house for nearly 30 years, and recording and posting the adventure. I think mine will be at least 3 parts, if not 4. (HAHA! Loved the Mustie1 shout out).
That pulley was coming off!! It just didn’t know it yet or who it was dealing with. Lol. Another great videos James. 👍👍
Thanks Jim for the video, which gives a good sample of how mechanically intensive these riding mowers are, especially the type with traditional steering. For such repairs, I usually budget at least 3 times more repair time in my estimates, due to the other unplanned problems you find along the way.
This mower is probably typical of how the average person maintains their mower: minimal/no maintenance, then buy a new one when a major failure occurs. I may be more mechanically minded though and was raised to take good care of my equipment (a bonus from having parents that grew up during the Depression in broken homes), which is probably why still have my 1969 Lawn Boy mower I used as a teenager.
Do you buy a new spark plug for it every 7 years at the same time as you turn over the reeds?
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq Hi John, I don't use the Lawn Boy (2 cycle engine) that often since it uses twice the gas as a newer 4 cycle mower. Also, it has 2 problems I haven't been able to solve so far. That being the wheel axles are totally worn out and I haven't been able to find a suitable replacement due to the odd size and universal replacements don't fit. Problem 2 involves the carburetor; these mowers were notorious for drifting mixture problems as the mower warms up. I have rebuilt the carb several times over the years but, this problem still remains. To fix it properly, I think would require a retrofit using a proven new carb, which would be a major refit on this mower.
The last time I rebuilt the engine was 2016 and the reed valve was clean and had minimal wear. However, the exhaust port was 75% blocked by carbon build-up. This 2016 overhaul was the first time the engine had been apart. Interestingly, the Lawn Boy maintenance procedure requires exhaust port cleaning annually. This procedure was built around using a straight 30W motor in the oil gas/oil mix, since there was no oil specifically designed for 2 strokes in that day (1969).
I haven't had that much trouble with fouling spark plugs. One reason for this is I set the spark plug gap to .040 to .045" after getting the ignition system in prime condition. The wider gap than stock causes a hotter spark which keeps the plug cleaner and enables the engine to run better with lean mixtures.
@@billharris6886
My father put me in charge of our lawnboy mower when I was 8 in 1963 and I kept it running well until I gave it to a collector in 2008.
IIRC the wheel axles are peened over in an X shape to stake them in the adjuster quadrants...
I just drilled a small hole in the outer end of the axle and used a large washer and cotter pin as the "retainer" for the well worn wheels...(hole for cotter pin drilled where the "C" clip groove was as it had been totally worn away.)
As for the "drift" in carb tuning...
I used the adjuster needle to give just the right mixture to stop 4 stroking...the engine "sings" when it is just right....
We are lucky that we have a temperate climate and I always used the mower at just above sea level so no great variation in air density...more or less "set and forget"...
I used TCW2 (air cooled 2 stroke engine) premium modern 2 stroke oil in the mix...
this really cut down on the carbon buildup in the exhaust port and in the under deck muffler...
plus there was a drastic reduction in the visible smoke......
If it's good enough for the far higher output and stressed Stihl chainsaw....it's good for the Lawn Boy...
Cheers..
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq Thanks John for recounting your experiences with the Lawn Boy mower plus, advice for the problems I mentioned. It sounds like we are the same age, I was born in 1955 and, having grown up in Florida (Melbourne, Palm Bay, and Miami), got a lot of experience cutting grass starting at age 8. My dad liked 2 strokes so, only bought these until manufacturing ceased. My older brother still has the 2 stroke Craftsman mower dad bought in 1957. We also owned a 1962 Lawn Boy, self propelled with floating front wheels. The 1969 Lawn Boy I have is a basic push mower, with the 109cc engine. It has different axles than you mentioned, they are 3.5" long, 1/2" diameter bolts, necked down to a 3/8-16 thread at the bolt end. Not finding a replacement, I have looked at the possibly of using a 3/8 bolt and sliding a 1/2" sleeve over it but, haven't found a suitable size sleeve yet. Of course all this is low priority since I have 2 other push mowers and a large zero-turn mower.
Nice nod to Mustie1 1:16:33. Nice to see you're a fan too, James!
He is my inspiration and teacher.
Glad I found this channel-no headbanging metal or rap "almost" music; and no lame jokes, cussing or non-stop talking-just calm informative discussion w/o constantly being asked to subscribe/upvote. In fact, I don't watch the video first and then decide if I want to give a thumbs up-now I just click 👍 and then start watching-haven't been disappointed yet. Well done James and a 👍 as always. God bless.
I just fixed the steering on a 21 year old craftsman lawn tractor. Same type curved rack with a pinion gear. Easier to access than that cub. Love your channel
Have you tried a bearing in the other wheel.
I had to chuckle at the beginning of the video when you turned the wheel and heard the familiar sound of a stripped rack and pinion steering on a Cub Cadet. I have one in my garage right now waiting for me to repair it for the same problem. I have never in my life seen a more poorly designed and manufactured part on a lawn mower in my life, and I've owned several.
I did a John Deere that was set up the same way. I used a open end wrench to get on the nuts without having to remove the plate. My Mountain Wrench set really helped. Looks like you’re going to have to pull the engine to replace the output shaft seal. At least you don’t have the deck with the timing belt. It’s a nightmare. Great work as usual Jim!
Sheesh, what a journey! I’ve had one or two this summer that were like this, seemed like a couple of minor things but turned out to be one thing after another after another! Very challenging but you have the patience of a saint!
I like that Jim fixes things 100% when possible or until the owner cries "Uncle!"
James, many of your videos helped me finally fix an inexpensive generator that has been plaguing us since we bought it at an auction. It would run but surged. I cleaned the jets w carb cleaner and air but no dice. I ordered a carb cleaning kit on Amazon and cleaned every orifice in that carb but still no dice. I noticed a screw that controls the governor was sticking out past the metal flange for a couple of threads and that screw was causing the surge thru the governor. I tightened that screw up and fiddled with it a little bit and now it runs perfect! I hooked up a couple space heaters to make sure the generator does what it’s supposed to do. Thx so much.
Any type of rider has to be maintained at least once or twice a year or the list of repairs can get ridiculous like this poor old machine. I own a John Deere X584 and they also need constant TLC to keep them running well. I also use my Deere year round so it needs more love than just a summer rider. Don't forget to service the transmission but they need to be removed to drain the oil so I don't thing you want to go into deep if it's working at this time. My wife always ask me why I'm working on my tractor so much, I think I'm going to show her this video and she will understand. Thanks for the great content James.
To remove B remove C, to remove C remove D to remove D remove E .... To remove ZZ remove AAA. This was one of these '5 minute' jobs that rapidly vanished over the horizon without an end. Excellent pacience and persistence on this one!
Hey James..i have a cub cadet identical to yours..it has 390 hrs on it same motor..I've never had a problem with it just regular maintenance..I've replaced other Cubs steering gears and it's no party took a couple of hours but i got it done..i replaced both bushings on the steering shaft..it drove like new..good tractor..
Tractor tires are a pain. Had a slow leak in one, ended up using an intertube. Worked great. Another youtuber had a good video on installing the intertube. Always enjoy your videos.
All your videos are awesome. I always learn a lot from them. Thanks for the time and effort you put into these!
One thing I’ve learned over the years…I have a 29 year old Craftsman riding mower that always had a couple flat tires after winter storing, and I used to do all that bead cleaning and re-inflation routine a couple times a year. I even bought new tires, but they did the same thing after a few years.
I stopped trying to get a seal on these old rims and just put inner tubes in them. This was MUCH more reliable and I haven’t had another flat tire for over 10 YEARS!
This reminds me of just about every rideing mower repair I've ever done. Ugh! One thing after another. Great work James.
James: You probably already know this, but if you pull out the lever at the back of the mower, shaped at a 90 degree angle, you can free wheel the tractor without starting the engine. Great video and many thanks.
Excellent video as always, James. Great idea to raise the front end for access to the belt. FWIW, an alternate method was done by Taryl to gain access in a video. He just tilted the machine over 45 degrees on it's right side (carb up, oil filler up, gas cap up) and rested the steering wheel on a chair or something. I did it on my Troy-bilt to change the belt and it worked great. You may need an assistant to help tilt it up.
You opened up a big can of worms on this one. As someone below suggested, it might be a good idea to change the crank seals while you can get to them. Especially the one you had to heat. Looking forward to the next episode.
Agreed!
Yup, it will leak
Those Kawasaki motors Are very nice very reliable. My uncle has pretty much the same engine but it 17 hp on his John Deere tractor. Got a lot of hours on it. Still going good.
I laughed at your Mustie1 joke!
That tractor should be a great tractor when your done.
I couldn't stop watching this video because of where it led one thing after another fantastic can't wait for the next one!
Well you can see why most these cubs get retired at this point to the spare pile. The last cub drive belt I replaced I loosened the engine mounting bolts then rocked the engine up slightly and was able to easily slide the belt on. Its common to see where people have tried to cut the keepers off or pound them out of the way or deform the pulley while attempting to remove.
I always enjoy your vids.
I had a smile on my face when James was trying to get that pulley off. I had the exact same issue on a '99 Troy Bilt all the while laying upside down on the floor. Using a hoist is brilliant. Did everything knew to do but wound up pulling the engine. Still had to use heat, etc, but still destroyed the pulley. 1 thing to keep in mind when applying the heat. There is a rubber seal on the engine shaft. Melt that, and you've got a whole nother issue. Very frustrating
Hello James. The next time you run into small fasteners that tend to be stuckand may snap off, like coil bolts; get your hammer and a drive punch and give them 4-6 solid hits(if you have access). It almost always breaks the corrosion and frees them up(on the small fasteners primarily). And as you already know, of course the penetrant. This has saved me a lot of extra work, fixing broken off bolts. Great videos, I really enjoy watching.
Great video! Can’t wait to see the rest. I had one of those great machine, had a snow blower attachment with a wind screen with tire weights and chains , only difference I had a 20 hp Kohler engine and 52 in mow deck. Loved it.
By the time James get done with this Cub Cadet he might have to keep it around because it be running great. Great video 👍
OH My ! What would I have given for one of those tire machine rig 20-35 years ago ! Very cool what the future brought.
I am a new viewer (5 ~ 6 videos viewed). I am very impressed by your skill and decision-making process. I have also learned that patience is a virtual necessity when performing mechanical repairs. Thanks for the educational experience you have provided!
He’s good. He’s damn good.
Turn bed
This Cub has turned into a money pit. It looks good on the outside, I have sunk too much into projects before. Did you know from the beginning it would need this much love and parts? Would it have made a difference if you did? I love watching you work....
Great Video as always James!! They make Hub Pullers which grab onto that center hub you were putting the heat on with set screws. That's what I use. I bought mine from the HVAC Supply House, as my main business is heating service & repair. You might want to replace the Crank Seal while your in there due to the heat exposure during the pully removal process. Best of Luck....................
I probably should have replaced that seal (did not order one). At least the pulley will be easier to remove the next time since I will put some anti-seize on. Will check out the hub puller. Don't do many tractors, but still a good investment given how difficult it can be without the proper tool. Thanks.
Great video as always, I always get a little concerned when you have to start releasing Fly Wheels and Oil Pressure sensors on older machines, you wonder where it will end. At least it led to fixing a host of other problems, and allowing access for a good clean.
Great video like the Muskie reference. A lot more work than originally planed
Nice intro! That green mower brought back memories.
At the very least, it helps teach all of us a bit of patience... I know I could use a double dose!!
Thorough... Thanks for these videos. I am already gaining benefits on things around here.
Not sure if you are aware but those side panels are removable. Remove the nut on the skinny rod at the rear of the side panel. The front either unclips or there is another nut/bolt up front. That will make your access to the engine area a whole lot easier. I would also replace all the idlers. They may spin free but the bearings are dry and will be noisy. I acquired a 2145 that I did all the same things to, what a pain. Doin' great!
Yup, I just removed a side panel. Should have done that sooner.
I really like the way you removed that drive belt pulley by drilling holes.
Looking forward to seeing the video of your work on that Champion Dual Fuel generator in your storage locker. I have the same unit. So far, a great machine. Thanks for the video.
Not sure there is much I can do with it. Less then two years old and the engine locked up. I could repower it with a 389 or 420cc engine, but that model uses a larger 459cc engine. So would fall a little short of the wattage it was capable of.
Great channel James! As a retired Chicago Firefighter I worry about your indoor gas can farm. You might want to look into reconditioning a flammable liquids cabinet (50 gal cap). I hope this helps you.
Hi James, Know what your going through with the mower, Did it for my daughter a few years ago. They should be called Cub CA DEBT. Thanks for the videos. Gord.
At least it was free. Good point to start.
My brain wants loctight on the rack bolts. No lock washers or nynuts? Fantastic job breathing life back into her. Thanks for sharing
You do not cut corners at all. You fix everything, and replace everything that needs it. Most guys just fix it "enough". I think it's cool that you do that. You don't sell or use Junk!!!! You make it, as new.
Haven't had time to read all the comments yet on this fix as I watch on my TV and hard to interact with comments. I little trick on doing small equipment tires is to remove the tire from the back side of the rim as the offset is smaller. Also lifting what would be the front side of the tire into the skinny space of the rim offsets gives you the room not to have to stretch the bead to remove it. Also the rims you removed with the plastic spacers you can get bearings for at TSC in the specialty unit and bolt drawers. They tap in from outside in. Love your videos and you are very thorough and solve many problems that seem impossible.
1:00:45 as a retired aircraft fitter I winced at the split pin ends 1/2 bent back. Many a drop of blood spilt on the barbs. I personally think I would snip of part of one tang, rotate the pin 90 degrees and bend the other tang over the end of the shaft. Just a personal observation, each to his (or her) own. Have a nice day from the soggy UK😊
Can't really tell from the video but when you were tiring to remove the heat shield I usually keep old junk sockets and grind down the outer diameter of the socket and make a thin wall socket. It looks like you wouldn't have had to remove the fly wheel if you did that. A crows foot would have worked also. But by removing the flywheel you got to clean the cooling fins on the engine a lot better. Great video I would have given it up for dead along time ago. Thanks for sharing.🍻
Awesome. Come on with part 2.. Thanks for all your videos.
Hi James, the two holes on the blades is for a blade tool or fork to loosen or tighten the nut on the blade like the 2×4 you used. Ok God bless you.
Great job James, from Derrick Congdon
Quick way to polish shafts like that is to put that Scotch Brite around the shaft like you had it, them put a snug fitting socket over it. Attach that to a drill and it gets the job done really quickly. I have even gone as far as getting old cracked larger sockets and putting 1 or 2 small 3/8" strips of the hook side of Velcro long ways into the socket to grab the Scotch Brite pad better and it did really
well.
Great idea
Lol I thot an engine swap on a 16 hp toro was a great feat with a b&s 14.5 and custom gagetry. Lol that new 19hp jondeer S110 sure looks purdy now! Much quieter all round and cleanest running engine ever!
Iv had an old huskee (basically the same as this down to the parts) mower for almost 10 years and mow 5 acres. Iv spent as much time under it as i have using it. It does a great job. Watching this is like deja vu. I never did get the drive pulley off, but did bugger it and straighten it. Ill say you made the right move, my belt will need replaced after 3 seasons and i lost a lot of speed. I spread it too far apart and the belt sits low. Slips easy as well. Youre a bigger man than me, but at least i know how to go about it this time
I would suggest that with as much land as you have to create a "French Drain Pad" where you scoop out native soil and replace it with gravel (like for a septic system), cover that with finer rock, and cover that with coarse, cheap, sand. You now have a place to pressure wash all your greasy projects like the Cadet. Every five or so years, scoop it all out and take it to the dump, and then refill. (You could even put another layer of septic rock over the sand for a super job)
The engine upper oil seal is obviously leaky, and I would be worried about the lower one also especially after the heat treatment. Now would be an excellent time to replace both. Good on you for pulling the lower cooling shrouds to get to the clogged fins you can't see from the top. Also might be a good idea to make sure the crankcase breather is unobstructed.
I agree and was thinking the same about the lower seal after the heat to get the pulley off. I was enCouraged when this one had the Kawasaki and didn't have the Kohler Courage engine, but jt obviously turned into a much bigger project...as many of them do.
All that heat I was crying for the lower seal.
A great project , Thumbs up, great video, Tractors are always needing more than they thought
There are a lot of parts to wear out.
1000 Series Cub Cadet owner here. LT 1050.
I didn't have the tools necessary to pull the drive belt pulley off of the main shaft... so I had the dealership do it.
They had to cut it off and in the process they had to replace the main seal up above it... because it's plastic.
I don't know if yours is the same way... but you might want to think about a main seal if you haven't already slapped it all back together.
On the other hand, my engine is a Kohler Command so maybe the main seal is fine.
One of the biggest pains in the rear end that I had was replacing the missing return spring for the parking brake.
In order to get it into position you have to completely compress it... which took me several hours to figure out how to do because there is NO room at all without pulling that bottom plate off.
Of course the solution was fairly simple.
It was just a couple of small zip ties on either side of the spring... slide into place... and then cut the zip ties out of the way.
I could go on and on... still cheaper than a new one though. 😂
Definitely cheaper then a new one. I am surprised the crank seal is still good. Always a good idea to replace. At least it will be easy to get the pulley off when the seal does fail now that there is anti-seize.
That tractor just needs some tlc, very nice working fixing it, looking forward to part 2!
Thank
You should bring more tractor videos,would love to learn more about these
Great video Jim. I enjoy your thoroughness.
I learned a trick - the plastic bag placed under the gas cap! Genius - that's always a problem for me servicing my snapper riding lawn mower.
Hello James: Once again enjoying watchig you battle the machine. This one had some hidden surprises. I expect you are gojng to put the machine up for sale when completed. You are replacing many items you could just repair if you were going to keep the unit for yourself. Ex. Air intake cover while damaged is still functional. Coil wire again damaged but a decent RTV and or tape repair would work it was working. The tires could of had tubes put in them.(I am located in Canada a tube is about $12-15 a new tire $40.) It is a garden tractor as long as the tires hold air they should be ok. I liked your comments about the difficulty of changing small rim tires without a holding fixture of some type. Give me a 13-21 rim any day. 6-12 inch rims not a .ot of fun. Now the shroud piece missing and cooling issues it could cause is a good find and a decent repair well justified. The dipstick tube is a great candidate for the soldering iron and a little plastic weld repair. The blades are left without an anti rotation bolt or key on purpose so that when you hit somethig the impact will slip the blade and pulley will slip on belt to avoid serious damage to the machine. Looking forward to part 2 to see just how deep you have to go to satisfy yourself that the machine is ready to be put back into service. Keep up the good work and great videos. This viewer really enjoys both your's and Mustie's videos.
There are many ways to repair this at a lower cost. Since I will eventually sell, want it to be safe. Still do not like the spindle design. Seems dangerous.
Great video. The parts and labor has surpassed the value of the tractor. I think the steering went, then the tree. Cubs has a very strong following and I have one also. I tried to pull that very same drive pully and just gave up. Good luck, see ya next time.
A Harbor Freight tire changer is a fairly good investment, and it could be mounted on a pallet, then disassembled for storage, and the pallet stored upright. I would suggest a piece of plywood being added to the top of the pallet for better support, and for foot placement.
So much easier using the tire changer than without. Been there, done that.
Another reason I love my Kabota, 2 screws and headlight plug and the whole front housing comes off giving full access to the engine.
Only you James.... Only you could possibly have a matching yellow crow bar, as we call them here in Britain! 😅😅 Are you asking Father Christmas for a battery powered right angle ½ wrench ? 😅 You certainly deserve one! Best thing about your videos is that you never skimp on what's really necessary and important for a successful outcome! 🤔👌 Can't wait for part 2!
I thought the same thing when editing the video. Almost a perfect match. I also call them a crow bar. Others call it a pry bar or wrenching bar.
DeWalt calls that one a wrecking bar
You want someone to love you like James loves old equipment.
James you definitely need a small oxyacetylene torch because it can't be stuck if it's liquid. Love these long videos from you keep up the good work.
The main seal on the crankshaft would also be liquid???
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq true but it may be damaged now, it got very Hot.
Great videos as always James Condon. We welcome a part two anytime.
I love your channel. The way you explain everything in detail is great. Never thought I could watch a how to video for a hour and a half. Can’t wait to see the follow up
From what ive seen on Taryls videos,you need to quench the part much more after heating it. This is one of your best videos,I enjoyed it very much,thank you!!
The Mustie1 message in the middle of the video gave me a chuckle. Enjoyed the video.
I truely enjoy watching your video’s & when I do a repair I try to think of every possible issue that could rear its ugly head because of something I needed to do to finish the repair. My concern here was the amount of heat needed to remove the crank pulley? The crank seal behind the pulley had to have been cooked,shouldn’t the crank seal be replaced? May all your repairs be easier than this one! Great job!
Moves three generators to get to the Cub. "I don't have any power here at the storage unit..."
Sorry, that just hit me funny. 😀
It is not allowed to run a small engine there :(
Another great repair quality handled video.....
Great! Thanks as always. I noticed the pressure washer in the shed and wonder if that's a future project. It would be great to learn a bit of what you know about servicing pumps! Fwiw I know that sock in the gut when disassembling and something goes sproing, instantly turning an N hour job into 3N . Been there too many times.
I am doing that video now. The pump is trashed, but found a cheap replacement.
Old Cub Cadets are my favorite. I actually have 2 units, one from 1989 the other from 1991. Still going strong (after much tinkering).
I'm always intrigued by your work such that I seldom think about the camera and lighting that you Always get just perfect! Don't know how you do it but it must add a bunch of time to your content creation. We all appreciate it as it is so good we forget to mention it.
I like your red travel wrench set. Where did it come from and would you recommend it?
Got it recently from Amazon. Jury is still out on it. Really like my older set, but this one seems solid so far. a.co/d/6PVtCNi
always very fascinating, very well commented... in short, can't wait for the rest, thank you
🙂
Nice little job James brought back to a good new life ! Little john from the UK