Thanks for another educational video. Which welder are you using and would you recommend it for a beginner? Perhaps you should consider adding it to your online store.
I recall a subscriber donating that welder to James. I think it wa a reward for other services rendered, James had to repair it though and modify it a little, as he does. That video is in his library if you were inclined to search for it.
It is a 20+ year old cheap Chicago Electric MIG/gas. Running on 240 volts. I would say almost any new welder sold at HF would be as good or better. I started with a cheap welding helmet from HF and could not see a thing. So upgraded to a nice Hobart helmet. Makes a big difference when you can actually see what you are doing. Here is the welder video ruclips.net/video/GkMimgpXG-A/видео.html I got this for fixing this chainsaw ruclips.net/video/gHkgo8y6Q5w/видео.html
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I'm not doubting what you read, but think about it logically and from experience. Portable genny sets have widely varied tolerances for the wheel kits. Solid tires can have worn bearings, no bearings, slightly bent axles...etc...leading to many types of "shimmy". To blame failed engines on tire pressure is the dumbest , corporate snow job I think I've ever heard of. 🤣 I just can't believe the frequency could ever get high enough to cause cavitation in motor oil.
Any time you finish cleaning out a fuel tank, before reinstalling, you should pour in about a cup or so of clean motor oil and close the lid and slosh it around coating the entire inside of the tank, then drain through the fuel shut off valve, this will coat the inside of the tank and keep moisture in the air from causing rust inside the tank. It also helps keep the valve clean by coating the inside of the valve. Really works. Hope that helps
Problems you found with that carb is the very reason Briggs and straton tells you to use fuel stabilizer to keep those carbs from varnishing caused by prolonged periods of sitting. I use it in ALL my smalll engine Equipment and have never had a problem such as that. Myself I use the Stabil because Ive found it works the best
THD is usually defined as the % power in overtones (Fourier series) (120,180 ... Hz) relative to the fundamental (60Hz). When you go across both legs the voltage doubles but the waveform stays the same, so the THD is the same. The increase in THD when you increase the load is due to the reaction field from the current flowing in the stator distorting the rotor field. (If memory serves :-)). Thx for your meticulous video's!
@stoflom and @jamescondon, I was just wondering the other day, does the rotational position of the power head relative to the engine firing position have an impact on THD? I could be thinking about this all wrong... It seems like the load on the power head would be greatest at the time when voltage passes the zero point. So if the power head position and engine position were aligned so that the engine is firing right when the power head is at the crossover point in the sign wave, that might impact THD? Maybe improve it? I wonder what the waveform would look like with the same generator, same resistive load, and the power head tested 3 or 4 times, each time 'clocked' 90 or 120 degrees to the engine TDC.
@@FirstNameLastName-tp5bu Interesting thought but remember most of these small generators have one two stroke cylinder so the power pulse will be every second cycle and thus at 30 Hz. I think the combined inertia of the rotor and crank will largely dampen out these motions and keep the rotor running at fairly constant rotation. The effect of the reaction field I mentioned is probably far stronger. Larger more expensive generators normally have extra compensating poles and windings to counter the reaction field.
I amazed at how difficult it is to completely purge a fuel system of water once it gets in there. I had the bright idea of pressure washing my pressure washer, and did not notice that the fuel cap had a vent on the top of it. I rebuilt the carb and ran it through the ultrasonic, replaced all the fuel lines, drained the tank and blew it out, and I still had to run it through three tanks of gas before it finally purged all the water and started running correctly again. I learned my lesson on that one, lol.
If you know all those crevices the water may hide, and the thing is disassembled, it is not that hard. After all (at least here) you need to do that every time you leave it with just a small amount of fuel in the tank half year or more. At least here it just tend to accumulate in it as the temperature fluctuates with the seasons rolling over. Yes, by drying the tank out (so the gas can not cover the condensate water and prevent it from evaporating back) or by filling it to the cap (so there is no air pocket left drawing in the moisture as it is expanding/contracting with temperature).
But thinking about it back, the "not that hard" is very relative term. It is not hard for someone like me, who is used to completely disassemble all the things every other year because forgot to prep it for storage after that last season and let it clog with water condensate again...
New subscriber here james, love the fact you put out a new video every week. Truly zen watching a meticulous master at work. Been working through all your old videos as well. You remind me a lot of Nile Red. Very similar to your channel, but with chemistry. You both give clear narration about what youre doing, have well thought out and framed camera angles for all the important steps, dont rely on music to fill the silence, etc. Both very relaxing yet educational channels. Also, first video ive seen you weld!
I can count the number of times I have welded on one hand. Love doing it, but need more projects with the welder to get better with it. See the Honda HS55 videos. That was the first time I used it and then the Dingo videos required a lot of welding. Frame was in bad shape.
Hey james, just wanted to give a thank you showing your process and knowledge. Recently picked up a riding lawnmower for cheap that was only running at full choke and high idle. Took on the task of cleaning the carb and doing a deep clean. Just got it reassembled this morning and it started up strong and was finally able to idle at low and move at its own power. Thank you james for being the best small engine guide on youtube!
I’ve been binge-watching these vids for about three months now. Part of my morning and evening commute. Doesn’t require full attention and I learn so much.
James , you could always bring a dolly with you when you go pick up generators, so that if you run in to a no wheel generator, you will be ready. Great videos sir, keep em coming.
Well, this video certainly helped me. I was gifted a 7000 watt version of this Honeywell machine a couple of weeks ago by my next door neighbor. He bought it new 25 years ago and never used it, so it's essentially brand new, but dusty. It'll hit and start on ether, so I know it'll run. Thanks especially for the carb repair part of the video. P.S. You're right, the axle on mine is underneath the frame.
Just picture James lugging this generator across the front yard chuckling as he loads it in the truck bed, wife on the phone in front porch with husband “yes the square thing” counting the cash
Hardly, luckily he had a trailer with ramps. Imagine lifting that thing into the back of a truck by yourself. James makes it look easy because he is so experienced. For the rest of us, yeah, it's just a parts machine. Furthermore, the seller should've just told James to pick it up when he was home if he had several gens lying around. So that's on the seller and the seller alone.
We have used the ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
I have the 5500W version of this generator and this video really helped me when I serviced it recently, its about 12 years old and runs like a top but I wanted to save money and start servicing it myself. Only thing you didn't do which I thought was crazy was change the spark plug. Awesome production quality on this video, great narration on what you're doing and why. Thank you.
I've got a Dewalt generator I've had for 14yrs. No rust in tank and still runs perfectly. Trick is the fuel is non ethanol and is mixed with a quality 2 stroke oil. I use echo or stihl oil and do 50:1 ratio , i also pump the fuel out, refill run for 20- 30 min a year before covering and storing back in the garage.
One of the best tools I have ever made was a carburetor holder. It is made from a piece of angle aluminum, and is drilled for two bolts that match the bolt spacing on the carburetor bracket. I can attach the carburetor to the angle aluminum with two bolts, two nuts, and four washers. I then can hold the angle aluminum in my bench vice. Makes using the impact on stuck jets SO MUCH EASIER. You should make you one. :)
Good idea. A better mousetrap just comes to mind: make or buy a miniature "engine stand" for the carburetor, which can lock it in the main directions, freeing up both hands while holding it firmly
As for getting rid of remaining fluids inside a tank. I've used a few light rags and a compressor to blow them around in the tank. Cleans up pretty efficiently.
I use a corn clamp on axles like that. Easier to disassemble and paint. Thanks for your video I really enjoyed them and can picture myself right next to you while you’re at this work. Love it!!
My suspicions on the seller delivering the wrong engine probably related to the varnish in the carburetor. This one he probably figured he never would fix, and the other he wheeled off to the small engine shop with wheels, not knowing this was the better machine for Mr Kongdon. Thank ya'll for the videos James, always a learning experience from an old watcher. Your diligence is so innumerable, such as on this one finding the other air filter layer. Hopefully the new owner sits the gas can beside the new genset and does not fill it up ready for the first power outage. He takes his wife out and shows her the fuel can, explains why he doesn't fill it, and more than likely will be home when the power goes out. Of course no one can predict that and when his wife needs to start it the battery will still be good if the guy charges it every month or puts a small retainer on the battery which these stupid genset companies should sell along with the genset.
Hi, James. An educated man can always best an uneducated man, especially when the uneducated man is also too lazy to maintain his equipment. TLC is a good motto for many activities in life, and you are good at that. It is always a pleasure to watch how your trouble solving skilss find a way through to the best result. Thanks for sharing! Stay Healthy!
saw your vid. a champion generator I bought needs work rebuild. carb twice. waiting for parts it should be fine. will let you know and cleaning the gas tank ALWAYS LEARNING
Something that works when trying to save an older battery that still potentially has life left in it, connect it up to a jumper pack that can produce a constant 12v or jumper cables to a second battery, when using a second battery you can use your battery charger so you can maintain voltage. It works, depending on the battery it can take anywhere from 4 to 6 hours to come back. When the battery is at a stable voltage, reconnect your smart charger and finish charging. I have saved countless batteries this way.
Great video James. I'm new to generators and love watching a knowledgeable person go through steps to bring it back to working order. You've explained the target range for volts and hertz, but I'm not understanding your sinewave reading or the THD. Could you go over those in near future, thanks for all great videos, I'm going through your older videos.
James, your find saved another generator and knowing that the generator will be sold at a fair price to help someone out. Just another reason why I injoy your post. Michael
You mounted the battery clamp oppside down, the angled part on the clamp should be on top of the battery to hold it down in the bracket. Love your videos, very good filming and good lighting. Very informativ explaining. Greetings from Norway.
Hmmmm James, I sure hope the individual who sold you this sold you the correct generator given the initial mismatch on the description. This was a winner!
FYI when you weld on any vehicle or machine with battery always remove the negative battery cable. When you are welding you pass current through the battery and run the risk of blowing up the battery.
Very good buy, hope she sold you the right one! The wheel kit really is a necessity on something that big, it shouldn’t even be an option IMO. Great job as usual sir!
I've seen rustier and more corroded carbs before, but I have only ever seen one other carb that was so occluded by varnish. The one I saw was on a 2 year old push mower, and I ended up replacing it. There was no chance of it ever running correctly.
Here is a tip for you James. Find a used hoyer lift for sale. They are what is used in the health care industry to move bed confined people from bed to chair etc. They are small and mobile and are rated to lift 400 or more pounds. They work great as a mini engine hoist (cherry picker) and you can take it with you in your trailer when you go on your next generator purchase. I picked up a manual pump one for about $50 a few years ago. I use it all the time in the shop.
Lift cart, atv or motorcycle lift. I've got a lift cart that I can ramp or tip things onto and then raise to fairly close to workbench height. I have a second that I trash picked, needs orings in the lift cylinder but might convert to air/over.
I used to be a mechanic mostly auto, some heavy..ive built quadrojets, thermoquads, diesel injector pumps...but i barely have the patience and dexterity for these tiny ones.. luckily ive found that the 10 yo 30 chinese cheapos work pretty well, and save me tons of time, money and frustration.
I have spent years working with used batteries of all types on a commercial level. I have charged and tested thousands over the years. Generally speaking, a battery that is bad will stop charging at, or will not hold a charge above 10.7 volts. Most modern chargers like the one you have base their ability to charge on the voltage of the battery. They will not charge a completely dead battery because they are unable to recognize that one is hooked up without a charge. If you have a completely dead battery, use a set of jumper cables and hook it up to a known good one for a few minutes. This will establish a base charge and allow your charger to recognize the battery. If the battery is completely dead, slow charge it and leave it on for a day or two. A battery that was completely dead can give you a false reading if you only charge it for the normal amount of time. Even on a volt meter, it will read fully charged and test bad, even though it is not actually fully charged. If you leave that same battery on for an extra 24 hours, it will be truly fully charged, and will test good. I once got a 17 year old automotive battery to take and hold a charge after being completely dead for 9 years. I charged it for four days, but it tested perfect, and held the charge for a week on the shelf. If the battery charges above 10.7, and holds that charge above that number for 12 hours, then it is usually good. If you do this, you will not have to replace as many batteries.
I bought a battery that was supposedly recharged and was good. The next morning it wouldn't start my wife's car. I took it back and traded it for a new battery. I have seen a lot of different ways to save a battery. Not sure if any actually work. I guess it is worth a try. I won't buy another battery like that again myself though
@@bertgrau3934 When I was still actively working on them, I would leave them in the shop for 24 hours and retest them before putting them up for sale. Most used battery vendors do not do that though.
Another great job. As far as batteries go, they're wear items. In my industry a 12 volt 8 amp hour battery is @ 12 bucks wholesale..ditch the old battery asap....you can purchase a load tester for reasonable $...it's not about the voltage in a battery but the amp hours...been using amp testers for years, they don't lie peace.
Thank you James for measuring the THD across the hot legs. I'll have to look at mine again because when I did mine across the L1 and L2 the THD dropped. Not sure what that would mean.
I retested my generator hooked up to the transfer switch with the oven and central air running. Inside the house I was seeing around 5.5% THD or less with a couple spikes to 6% when the central kicked on. I'm thinking that less than 6% THD from a PTO generator is pretty good.
I've heard when putting power equipment away for a long time storage that when you drain the carb it's usually good to put some 2stroke oil or marvel mystery oil in the carb will keep the float or needle from sticking but I usually just drain it and never have issues. But that carb shows why it's important to drain it because it will get stuck.
Love your videos. Just food for thought. Welding with a battery nearby. 2 things. Discharged batteries may have hydrogen present. Connected battery will fry any electronics. Cheers from Alberta Canada
Project Farm recently tested various battery recovery methods. He had some really good results from an unconventional method (using the welder) and very poor results from the "Battery Repair" setting on chargers both cheap and expensive. The treatment with the welder seemed to be a long term fix too.
He did this with flooded batteries where you can open the cap and add water. I wouldn't try this with an AGM battery. Anyway a generator battery is not $200 like a car battery nowadays so it's not worth the effort.
James, at 22:44, I would think you would have blown some brake fluid, (or whatever), and see it would pass through. At 57:50 I would have wire wheeled the rust off of those screws & nuts. Other then that, fine job, as always! 👍
Handle washer on inside -= you said it won't fit, so you would have to omit it. You could quite easily cut one section of it away so that it would fit and give the friction satisfaction it was designed for.
Thanks James you have me now looking on fb marketplace for non starting mowers, my plan is to hopefully get a free or very cheap one, use what I have learnt on your channel, that is its most times a carb issue then hopefully run it from the undrinkable parts of distilling my own alcohol as I dont want to ruin my current mower by attempting this.
Why paint the welds But not the Axle 🤔 kinda Confused they would both rust about the same speed depending on the weather the machine is in @James Condon
Next time, take your washer. Put a bolt in the vice with the warship's on it and running around or on it as they spin. Though. Grind down a little bit, and then you'll be able to use them in that space like you want.
Hey James! Great video and attention to detail as always! That’s why I’ve been watching so long, love the narration and explanation. On those brass jets, if they have heavy nasty on them, you can soak them in citric acid and they will look like factory fresh, brass can handle the acid no problem as long as you keep an eye on them, I’m sure you already knew that but thought I’d mention since this one was particularly gross inside lol! Love the video, and as always, thank you for all the great content
45:22 Wouldn't welding the frame to axle interface completely around be in order instead of just in spots? Since the metal is unfinished in the void between the parts, it will be left open to corrosion in an area hard to inspect. This could lead to corrosive failure of the frame/weld. The solid axle is less problematic. 48:18 ? It's a plastic washer. Just trim a flat side on it to fit under the brace.
Well done and thanks for sharing! Purchased one just like this new 10 to 12 years ago. Used it once, stored it away for a winter. Attempted to use it the following spring and No Start. This video is informative but kinda discouraging. Can I find a fresh carburetor or whole new fuel system? I don’t have that fancy stuff for cleaning or restoring the original. That’s tedious work for a guy like me. I usually don’t do well with working on small motors.
just pointing out arnt the two negatives tied together in the power head so moving only the negative wont make a difference any way, surely you would need to pit the positive lead in the positive side of the 240 outlet to see if there is a difference..... may be. love the vids thanks James
Thanks for another educational video. Which welder are you using and would you recommend it for a beginner? Perhaps you should consider adding it to your online store.
I recall a subscriber donating that welder to James. I think it wa a reward for other services rendered, James had to repair it though and modify it a little, as he does. That video is in his library if you were inclined to search for it.
It is a 20+ year old cheap Chicago Electric MIG/gas. Running on 240 volts. I would say almost any new welder sold at HF would be as good or better. I started with a cheap welding helmet from HF and could not see a thing. So upgraded to a nice Hobart helmet. Makes a big difference when you can actually see what you are doing. Here is the welder video ruclips.net/video/GkMimgpXG-A/видео.html I got this for fixing this chainsaw ruclips.net/video/gHkgo8y6Q5w/видео.html
@@r8118830 Thanks!
@@jcondon1 Thanks!
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I'm not doubting what you read, but think about it logically and from experience. Portable genny sets have widely varied tolerances for the wheel kits. Solid tires can have worn bearings, no bearings, slightly bent axles...etc...leading to many types of "shimmy". To blame failed engines on tire pressure is the dumbest , corporate snow job I think I've ever heard of. 🤣 I just can't believe the frequency could ever get high enough to cause cavitation in motor oil.
Any time you finish cleaning out a fuel tank, before reinstalling, you should pour in about a cup or so of clean motor oil and close the lid and slosh it around coating the entire inside of the tank, then drain through the fuel shut off valve, this will coat the inside of the tank and keep moisture in the air from causing rust inside the tank. It also helps keep the valve clean by coating the inside of the valve. Really works. Hope that helps
I always oil my cleaned tanks. A cloth rag removes any excess oil.
Problems you found with that carb is the very reason Briggs and straton tells you to use fuel stabilizer to keep those carbs from varnishing caused by prolonged periods of sitting. I use it in ALL my smalll engine Equipment and have never had a problem such as that. Myself I use the Stabil because Ive found it works the best
THD is usually defined as the % power in overtones (Fourier series) (120,180 ... Hz) relative to the fundamental (60Hz). When you go across both legs the voltage doubles but the waveform stays the same, so the THD is the same. The increase in THD when you increase the load is due to the reaction field from the current flowing in the stator distorting the rotor field. (If memory serves :-)). Thx for your meticulous video's!
@stoflom and @jamescondon, I was just wondering the other day, does the rotational position of the power head relative to the engine firing position have an impact on THD?
I could be thinking about this all wrong... It seems like the load on the power head would be greatest at the time when voltage passes the zero point. So if the power head position and engine position were aligned so that the engine is firing right when the power head is at the crossover point in the sign wave, that might impact THD? Maybe improve it?
I wonder what the waveform would look like with the same generator, same resistive load, and the power head tested 3 or 4 times, each time 'clocked' 90 or 120 degrees to the engine TDC.
@@FirstNameLastName-tp5bu Interesting thought but remember most of these small generators have one two stroke cylinder so the power pulse will be every second cycle and thus at 30 Hz. I think the combined inertia of the rotor and crank will largely dampen out these motions and keep the rotor running at fairly constant rotation. The effect of the reaction field I mentioned is probably far stronger. Larger more expensive generators normally have extra compensating poles and windings to counter the reaction field.
I amazed at how difficult it is to completely purge a fuel system of water once it gets in there. I had the bright idea of pressure washing my pressure washer, and did not notice that the fuel cap had a vent on the top of it. I rebuilt the carb and ran it through the ultrasonic, replaced all the fuel lines, drained the tank and blew it out, and I still had to run it through three tanks of gas before it finally purged all the water and started running correctly again. I learned my lesson on that one, lol.
If you know all those crevices the water may hide, and the thing is disassembled, it is not that hard. After all (at least here) you need to do that every time you leave it with just a small amount of fuel in the tank half year or more. At least here it just tend to accumulate in it as the temperature fluctuates with the seasons rolling over. Yes, by drying the tank out (so the gas can not cover the condensate water and prevent it from evaporating back) or by filling it to the cap (so there is no air pocket left drawing in the moisture as it is expanding/contracting with temperature).
But thinking about it back, the "not that hard" is very relative term. It is not hard for someone like me, who is used to completely disassemble all the things every other year because forgot to prep it for storage after that last season and let it clog with water condensate again...
The wire brushes in a gun barrel cleaning mite help you clean out junk in carb !
Instead of welding you could of used a corn clamp a electric supply have them ! As Home Depot also have them !
Alcohol is a great way to get rid of water in the fuel system. It absorbs the water and allows the mixture to burn.
New subscriber here james, love the fact you put out a new video every week. Truly zen watching a meticulous master at work. Been working through all your old videos as well. You remind me a lot of Nile Red. Very similar to your channel, but with chemistry. You both give clear narration about what youre doing, have well thought out and framed camera angles for all the important steps, dont rely on music to fill the silence, etc. Both very relaxing yet educational channels. Also, first video ive seen you weld!
I can count the number of times I have welded on one hand. Love doing it, but need more projects with the welder to get better with it. See the Honda HS55 videos. That was the first time I used it and then the Dingo videos required a lot of welding. Frame was in bad shape.
Good working machine For a Parts only Purchase will make somebody a good machine
Hey james, just wanted to give a thank you showing your process and knowledge. Recently picked up a riding lawnmower for cheap that was only running at full choke and high idle. Took on the task of cleaning the carb and doing a deep clean. Just got it reassembled this morning and it started up strong and was finally able to idle at low and move at its own power. Thank you james for being the best small engine guide on youtube!
Nice work!
I’ve been binge-watching these vids for about three months now. Part of my morning and evening commute. Doesn’t require full attention and I learn so much.
I absolutely love Thursday especially for weekly videos from the purest channel on RUclips. Great Video James. Absolute perfectionist 👏
Every Thursday I have my breakfast and a cup of coffee with James.
James , you could always bring a dolly with you when you go pick up generators, so that if you run in to a no wheel generator, you will be ready. Great videos sir, keep em coming.
Well, this video certainly helped me. I was gifted a 7000 watt version of this Honeywell machine a couple of weeks ago by my next door neighbor. He bought it new 25 years ago and never used it, so it's essentially brand new, but dusty. It'll hit and start on ether, so I know it'll run. Thanks especially for the carb repair part of the video.
P.S. You're right, the axle on mine is underneath the frame.
The wife sold you the wrong generator. I bet the seller was not happy.
Came here to post this as well. Wrong generator. Oops
You also should have removed all the grounding wires before welding. That can affect the stater also.
Just picture James lugging this generator across the front yard chuckling as he loads it in the truck bed, wife on the phone in front porch with husband “yes the square thing” counting the cash
Hilarious 😅
Hardly, luckily he had a trailer with ramps. Imagine lifting that thing into the back of a truck by yourself. James makes it look easy because he is so experienced. For the rest of us, yeah, it's just a parts machine. Furthermore, the seller should've just told James to pick it up when he was home if he had several gens lying around. So that's on the seller and the seller alone.
James, you truly speak the "King's English". It marks you as being well educated. Kudos!
Many who speak American English are also well-educated. Can you provide a timestamp of when James used the King's English? I may have missed it. 🤨
We have used the ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
I have the 5500W version of this generator and this video really helped me when I serviced it recently, its about 12 years old and runs like a top but I wanted to save money and start servicing it myself. Only thing you didn't do which I thought was crazy was change the spark plug. Awesome production quality on this video, great narration on what you're doing and why. Thank you.
Interesting noticing the differences between this Honeywell and the Generac you worked on before. Good Job Professor!
I've got a Dewalt generator I've had for 14yrs. No rust in tank and still runs perfectly. Trick is the fuel is non ethanol and is mixed with a quality 2 stroke oil. I use echo or stihl oil and do 50:1 ratio , i also pump the fuel out, refill run for 20- 30 min a year before covering and storing back in the garage.
I'm subscribed because I like to see good honest work and practical expertise applied to rescuing good equipment from the scrap heap.
One of the best tools I have ever made was a carburetor holder. It is made from a piece of angle aluminum, and is drilled for two bolts that match the bolt spacing on the carburetor bracket. I can attach the carburetor to the angle aluminum with two bolts, two nuts, and four washers. I then can hold the angle aluminum in my bench vice. Makes using the impact on stuck jets SO MUCH EASIER. You should make you one. :)
Good idea. A better mousetrap just comes to mind: make or buy a miniature "engine stand" for the carburetor, which can lock it in the main directions, freeing up both hands while holding it firmly
As for getting rid of remaining fluids inside a tank. I've used a few light rags and a compressor to blow them around in the tank. Cleans up pretty efficiently.
I use a corn clamp on axles like that. Easier to disassemble and paint. Thanks for your video I really enjoyed them and can picture myself right next to you while you’re at this work. Love it!!
I have used lapping compound on a Qtip to clean the seats on dirty carbs, worked as well as i needed it too.
toothpaste works well also
People in the area you live use a little bait and switch trick naming the conditions of their older generators to give you upload material 💜
Thanks!
Thanks David
Thanks
Thanks
Cleaned up pretty well good looking machine
Seems to run smooth no matter what load it's under
My suspicions on the seller delivering the wrong engine probably related to the varnish in the carburetor. This one he probably figured he never would fix, and the other he wheeled off to the small engine shop with wheels, not knowing this was the better machine for Mr Kongdon. Thank ya'll for the videos James, always a learning experience from an old watcher. Your diligence is so innumerable, such as on this one finding the other air filter layer. Hopefully the new owner sits the gas can beside the new genset and does not fill it up ready for the first power outage. He takes his wife out and shows her the fuel can, explains why he doesn't fill it, and more than likely will be home when the power goes out. Of course no one can predict that and when his wife needs to start it the battery will still be good if the guy charges it every month or puts a small retainer on the battery which these stupid genset companies should sell along with the genset.
King Kongdon
Or...the seller could only find a photo of a 5500 machine to include in his ad. Great video James...as always.
Great job (again)! Thanks for doing the THD test with leg comparison.
Thank you Dr. Condon. That was a nice video.
So, The Lord was with you, and us!, in the welding sgment.
Hurrah! And thanks!
I like the way you have to have everything clean, even down to using cotton buds. Love your work and the channel from Oz.
Hi, James. An educated man can always best an uneducated man, especially when the uneducated man is also too lazy to maintain his equipment. TLC is a good motto for many activities in life, and you are good at that. It is always a pleasure to watch how your trouble solving skilss find a way through to the best result. Thanks for sharing! Stay Healthy!
I've learned a lot from you over the last couple years I love your approach on everything My favorite RUclipsr.
Nice voltage and Frequency not bad at all runs pretty smooth after putting the carb you had on
saw your vid. a champion generator I bought needs work rebuild. carb twice. waiting for parts it should be fine. will let you know and cleaning the gas tank ALWAYS LEARNING
AWFULLY GOOD AND SMART WAY TO ESTABLISH CARBURETTOR FAILURE!
WELL DONE!
Something that works when trying to save an older battery that still potentially has life left in it, connect it up to a jumper pack that can produce a constant 12v or jumper cables to a second battery, when using a second battery you can use your battery charger so you can maintain voltage.
It works, depending on the battery it can take anywhere from 4 to 6 hours to come back.
When the battery is at a stable voltage, reconnect your smart charger and finish charging.
I have saved countless batteries this way.
25:57 I lap them with metal polishing compound. Works great. Sometimes even toothpaste works if it isn't too bad.
Nice repair. It's always great to buy a parts machine that's complete and repairable.
Wow great results from a parts machine. Good job!
Hard to believe people don’t have stuff fixed and take care of it
But it’s ok with me because I enjoy doing it 😊
Great video James. I'm new to generators and love watching a knowledgeable person go through steps to bring it back to working order. You've explained the target range for volts and hertz, but I'm not understanding your sinewave reading or the THD. Could you go over those in near future, thanks for all great videos, I'm going through your older videos.
James, your find saved another generator and knowing that the generator will be sold at a fair price to help someone out.
Just another reason why I injoy your post.
Michael
You mounted the battery clamp oppside down, the angled part on the clamp should be on top of the battery to hold it down in the bracket. Love your videos, very good filming and good lighting. Very informativ explaining. Greetings from Norway.
Hmmmm James, I sure hope the individual who sold you this sold you the correct generator given the initial mismatch on the description. This was a winner!
That one is a keeper!!
I thought for sure you were gonna drop that gas cap in some of the evaporust
I really want to see how it came out...
I enjoy your repair videos here in NH.
North Horea
Another award winning job! And it was Eazy Peazy!
Jim, that filter screws into the fuel shut off, thanks for another sweet video
you saved another good machine .. Nice work James !
Excellent work James 👍
FYI when you weld on any vehicle or machine with battery always remove the negative battery cable. When you are welding you pass current through the battery and run the risk of blowing up the battery.
runs wonderfully after the carb overhaul
Very good buy, hope she sold you the right one! The wheel kit really is a necessity on something that big, it shouldn’t even be an option IMO. Great job as usual sir!
Great find & plenty of Condon TLC as usual James.
She's a Beaut.
Hi, James just wanted to let you know that, that rubber seal can be easily removed from the gas cap and reinstalled after cleaning.
I've seen rustier and more corroded carbs before, but I have only ever seen one other carb that was so occluded by varnish. The one I saw was on a 2 year old push mower, and I ended up replacing it. There was no chance of it ever running correctly.
Hi James great little generator with very little cost Always love watching the master at work thanks for sharing
Great educational vid sir. Respect from the middle east
Here is a tip for you James. Find a used hoyer lift for sale. They are what is used in the health care industry to move bed confined people from bed to chair etc. They are small and mobile and are rated to lift 400 or more pounds. They work great as a mini engine hoist (cherry picker) and you can take it with you in your trailer when you go on your next generator purchase. I picked up a manual pump one for about $50 a few years ago. I use it all the time in the shop.
Lift cart, atv or motorcycle lift. I've got a lift cart that I can ramp or tip things onto and then raise to fairly close to workbench height. I have a second that I trash picked, needs orings in the lift cylinder but might convert to air/over.
Another very good repair. Very impressive, thank you
I used to be a mechanic mostly auto, some heavy..ive built quadrojets, thermoquads, diesel injector pumps...but i barely have the patience and dexterity for these tiny ones.. luckily ive found that the 10 yo 30 chinese cheapos work pretty well, and save me tons of time, money and frustration.
Simple fix with this one, just needed a little tlc, very nice working as always James!
I have spent years working with used batteries of all types on a commercial level. I have charged and tested thousands over the years. Generally speaking, a battery that is bad will stop charging at, or will not hold a charge above 10.7 volts. Most modern chargers like the one you have base their ability to charge on the voltage of the battery. They will not charge a completely dead battery because they are unable to recognize that one is hooked up without a charge. If you have a completely dead battery, use a set of jumper cables and hook it up to a known good one for a few minutes. This will establish a base charge and allow your charger to recognize the battery. If the battery is completely dead, slow charge it and leave it on for a day or two. A battery that was completely dead can give you a false reading if you only charge it for the normal amount of time. Even on a volt meter, it will read fully charged and test bad, even though it is not actually fully charged. If you leave that same battery on for an extra 24 hours, it will be truly fully charged, and will test good. I once got a 17 year old automotive battery to take and hold a charge after being completely dead for 9 years. I charged it for four days, but it tested perfect, and held the charge for a week on the shelf. If the battery charges above 10.7, and holds that charge above that number for 12 hours, then it is usually good. If you do this, you will not have to replace as many batteries.
I bought a battery that was supposedly recharged and was good. The next morning it wouldn't start my wife's car. I took it back and traded it for a new battery. I have seen a lot of different ways to save a battery. Not sure if any actually work. I guess it is worth a try. I won't buy another battery like that again myself though
@@bertgrau3934 When I was still actively working on them, I would leave them in the shop for 24 hours and retest them before putting them up for sale. Most used battery vendors do not do that though.
@@jesterr7133
Sir, it sounds like you care about selling quality. I can appreciate that. Good luck to you.
Lovely job. Someone will be very happy with their Honeywell Generator :)
Wow, look at you steaming right along to 120k+ subs. Congrats.
Thanks, James, hope you made some money on it. Looks like new rolling out of your shop
Great video James,should have removed the battery before welding that close to it
Another great job. As far as batteries go, they're wear items. In my industry a 12 volt 8 amp hour battery is @ 12 bucks wholesale..ditch the old battery asap....you can purchase a load tester for reasonable $...it's not about the voltage in a battery but the amp hours...been using amp testers for years, they don't lie peace.
great video. keep em coming. i've learned a lot about small engines watching your videos for the past couple years and they are very helpful.
Just started watchingyour videos, and i love seeing the engineer bread pliers
Ill tell ya that lift is such a great help isent it . That Dude who hooked you up was so cool !
Thank you James for measuring the THD across the hot legs. I'll have to look at mine again because when I did mine across the L1 and L2 the THD dropped. Not sure what that would mean.
I retested my generator hooked up to the transfer switch with the oven and central air running. Inside the house I was seeing around 5.5% THD or less with a couple spikes to 6% when the central kicked on. I'm thinking that less than 6% THD from a PTO generator is pretty good.
I've heard when putting power equipment away for a long time storage that when you drain the carb it's usually good to put some 2stroke oil or marvel mystery oil in the carb will keep the float or needle from sticking but I usually just drain it and never have issues. But that carb shows why it's important to drain it because it will get stuck.
Perhaps attach a tag to each carburetor explaining why it was left for parts and a reference to the video if applicable.
With my OCD I tag everything. Even when it is not necessary.
Love your videos. Just food for thought. Welding with a battery nearby. 2 things. Discharged batteries may have hydrogen present. Connected battery will fry any electronics. Cheers from Alberta Canada
You could always cut one of those nylon washers to fit around the obstruction for the handle mounting!!
I thought the same thing, just trim the tops.
Another good video. I hope the battery charging circuit is functional as I didn't see you check that.
Project Farm recently tested various battery recovery methods. He had some really good results from an unconventional method (using the welder) and very poor results from the "Battery Repair" setting on chargers both cheap and expensive. The treatment with the welder seemed to be a long term fix too.
He did this with flooded batteries where you can open the cap and add water. I wouldn't try this with an AGM battery. Anyway a generator battery is not $200 like a car battery nowadays so it's not worth the effort.
James, at 22:44, I would think you would have blown some brake fluid, (or whatever), and see it would pass through. At 57:50 I would have wire wheeled the rust off of those screws & nuts. Other then that, fine job, as always! 👍
Handle washer on inside -= you said it won't fit, so you would have to omit it. You could quite easily cut one section of it away so that it would fit and give the friction satisfaction it was designed for.
Always well done James, thank you!
Another great vid James. The Devils in the details they say. You’ve got them all covered as usual. Bravo James. 👏
Thanks James you have me now looking on fb marketplace for non starting mowers, my plan is to hopefully get a free or very cheap one, use what I have learnt on your channel, that is its most times a carb issue then hopefully run it from the undrinkable parts of distilling my own alcohol as I dont want to ruin my current mower by attempting this.
Ive use a small dab of valve grinding compound on a cue tip and a shot of WD for seats and have had good results.
Great informative subject matter... well produced video!!
Why paint the welds But not the Axle 🤔 kinda Confused they would both rust about the same speed depending on the weather the machine is in @James Condon
you need a wire brush to clean the wald after each pass to prevent oxides from damaging the previous layers and rust paint is crucial for long service
Great Video James Thanks !!👍👍
Great job once again James. have a lovely weekend and thanks for sharing.
Next time, take your washer. Put a bolt in the vice with the warship's on it and running around or on it as they spin. Though. Grind down a little bit, and then you'll be able to use them in that space like you want.
Hey James! Great video and attention to detail as always! That’s why I’ve been watching so long, love the narration and explanation. On those brass jets, if they have heavy nasty on them, you can soak them in citric acid and they will look like factory fresh, brass can handle the acid no problem as long as you keep an eye on them, I’m sure you already knew that but thought I’d mention since this one was particularly gross inside lol! Love the video, and as always, thank you for all the great content
45:22 Wouldn't welding the frame to axle interface completely around be in order instead of just in spots? Since the metal is unfinished in the void between the parts, it will be left open to corrosion in an area hard to inspect. This could lead to corrosive failure of the frame/weld. The solid axle is less problematic. 48:18 ? It's a plastic washer. Just trim a flat side on it to fit under the brace.
Very nice! As always! Thank-you!
Well done and thanks for sharing! Purchased one just like this new 10 to 12 years ago. Used it once, stored it away for a winter. Attempted to use it the following spring and No Start. This video is informative but kinda discouraging. Can I find a fresh carburetor or whole new fuel system? I don’t have that fancy stuff for cleaning or restoring the original. That’s tedious work for a guy like me. I usually don’t do well with working on small motors.
just pointing out arnt the two negatives tied together in the power head so moving only the negative wont make a difference any way, surely you would need to pit the positive lead in the positive side of the 240 outlet to see if there is a difference..... may be.
love the vids thanks James
Another one ready for the field good show Jim
Nice machine What a deal thank you for the video