I had taken this video down for about a month, because of issues with Sunlu's Kickstarter campaign (I was a backer of it). I did finally receive my Kickstarter unit, about a month after people had been able to buy it on Amazon. I've got a whole other video about the Kickstarter issues, but since I did finally receive my unit (several weeks ago at this point), I'm making this video public again. Apologies if you received a notification about it.
My girlfriend gave this to me as a birthday gift yesterday, and I ran across your video today. She knows nothing about 3D printing, but said she did her homework before choosing this one. I trust her judgment, but I'm still glad to see your review confirming her choice. Thanks for doing this video.
Brilliant review and was what pushed me to get one of these. Mine arrived on 19th Jan 2021 and there seem to be a few updates. The inside insulation is now a single layer of black rather than the foil. It comes with Teflon tubs for the filament holes (1 fitted and 4 spare) and lastly the backlight on the LCD has been improved and it can be easily read.
The print bed is typically big enough to hold a roll sitting flat. Set the roll on the print bed at end of day, cover with the box it came in (cut out the bottom), set print bed to 55C, wake up and it is ready.
I know this is old, but I had kind of yolo bought this off Amazon without really watching reviews and I can also attest that it definitely works. My buddy gave me some multi-year old filament and it popped a lot and was messy. After drying it for 6 hours it definitely prints better and has no pops while printing.
TL:DR The unit dries well. It removed 2 cubic centimetres from a TPU roll. It's quiet, small, and looks good. The computer interface is good, but the backlight is dim. 7:20 for the SunLu review 8:37 for instructions for how to use the SunLu (and clones too according to the comments), 11:48 for TPU moisture removal test;
Got mine on Amazon for 62 bucks, free shipping. Showed up in 1 day. Seems to be working well so far. About to try some CF nylon, which is the reason why I bought this dryer.
Boy, does this thing work! I had nearly a full roll of Matterhackers PETG that sat around for like 2-3 years. The print I tried to use was hideous; it was covered in tough seam nodules and cat-whisker like stringing. The hot end made these delecate snap, crackle and pop sounds while printing and kew immediately that moisture was the problem. After 8 hours total drying in 12, still some stringing but vastly better. And after neary 12 total hours of drying in my first 24 hours having this unit, the PETG prints better than brand new! As for your review video: very thorough and well done!
Just received the unit you discussed. Thank goodness you put the video up because I got a warning SUNLU's manual was hosted from a sketchy website and I received a warning. I will pre-weigh all my old spools and get a benchmark to work from before and after. Thanks so much.
I really enjoyed that, thank you Bryan. Very interesting to see just how much water it removed from that TPU - I've yet to measure anything with mine but it did help me recover some 4 year old filament which was a nice surprise. It was good to hear the instruction manual get a mention as I did the English translation for SUNLU and produced the CAD drawings used in there.
Hi! You did a great job on the English translation. I know space is limited in these little instruction guides, but it was easy to understand how to operate the S1. I was surprised at how much water it removed from the TPU. And dry filament is happy filament! 😄
Cheers for making this video. I bought a unit from amazon (in Jan 2023) and my instructions were a lot more sparse than yours. Just a few pictures and a QR code. The link from the code was for a very poor quality, practically unreadable picture of your instructions. Trying to download instructions from the Sunlu website set off a lot of security alerts on my browser. So I really appreciated this video with instructions on how to use my unit. Many thanks
I live in the SoCal desert so I just place the filament outside for a few hours. Right now, I have some sitting outside in the shade because the humidity is currently at 19%. Doing this saves me a ton of money because its FREE.
Hi Bill! That's awesome -- Mother Nature for the win! I'm sitting at a relative humidity value of 40%, more or less, so putting my filament outside would not make it happy. 😬
@@BV3D Hi Bryan, Everything I have ever read said that the Filament should have a a humidity level between 35-40%. I only take mine outside when I cross that 45% humidity inside the house.
Hi Bryan, I hope you’re doing awesomely well. Another great video. I like the variety that you’re putting up now. Good luck can’t wait till you’re at 10,000. David
Hi David! I'm doing well, apart from being super busy at work and desperately needing a haircut. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it, and I hope you're doing well, too! 😀
My printer is in same room as my koi pond and greenroom. This took me from not being able to print to almost every single print is perfect. 10 out of 10 for me
Actually if you compare the methods of filament drying, a filament dryer like the sunlu is much superior to oven or fooddehydryer. The filament on a spool is normaly packed quite dense, so the hot air barly finds it ways inside to dry it quickly everywhere - while of course the humid air had weeks or months to get inside. So a drying in a oven or fooddehydrer will mostly dry the outer rounds of filament, unless you dry it very long. With a special filament dryer, this is no problem at all. I start drying of a spool mostly about 0.5h to 1h before I want to start printing. This is enough time to dry the outer rounds of the spool. Than I load the filament to the printer and start printing. As the filament dryer keeps drying, the warm air always keep on drying the outer windings. So it does not matter the core of the spool has not gotten dry - as if it hasn't it's obvious because it not became an outer winding as the print was already finished. So with oven or food dehydryer you have to do a very long time to go to the core. While with a filament dryer you simply start halve an hour before starting printing, only drying the filament you need. I like the Aquara PETG CF20 a lot, but got bad results after a time. Since I started to use the Filament dryer, quality increased a lot. Even if using a fresh unpacked spool, the quality of the prints became better than ever. On this filament I start drying about 2h before starting a print. For my Prusa mk3s I use www.thingiverse.com/thing:2948176 ( I extended it a bit) to use a tube (4mm outside 3mm inside) as a filament guide and changed the power cord to one with a 90° angled. So I can place the Filament dryer directly side by side with the printer, guiding the filament directly from the dryer to the extruder. On bowden printers you must be carefull: Even below glas transition temperature you might get into trouble at parts with many retractions. On sime prints the filament pass the feeder up to 3 times forward and backwards. If this happens, the filament might deform and stuck at the feeders output. An oval with 2.1mm by 1.25mm obviously do not fit into a 2mm tube... In this case you might dry the filament some hours before printing, use only 35°C while printing and lower the tension of the feeder (happend on my Prusa Mini with bondtech upgrade). On direct extruders this is no problem, as the retractions are smaller.
I think either one will dry about as well, only a purpose built will be a bit faster as it will take less time to reach the intended temperature, but make much less noise and consume much less power.
I just ran into a huge problem with my PLA filament suddenly clogging my nozzle every few minutes after getting nice prints on my Ender 3 pro. Most of the year this is no problem in Montreal even though we are on an island But with 90 degree days everything got muggy and my extruder was clogging up. I thought it was just the heat that was screwing up the cpu in my printer but Dr. Vax set me straight. So I ordered the same food dehydrator you showed on your video from amazon for 55 Canadian dollars.
Hello 3D Printing Friends! I've seen a number of comments about the lack of availability of this product. I think there was a limited production run, and I, along with a few others, received a unit. Sunlu commented (and responded to a few other comments), indicating they're taking this to Kickstarter in mid-July. So it looks like they're building hype for the product, attempting to gauge interest, and hoping for some Kickstarter exposure, similar to what Creality did with the CR6-SE. I've been very impressed by the unit I received. If Sunlu is able to deliver the same build quality as the product I received, and keep it at the $60 USD price point or lower, they're going to do really well with it. So if you're interested in the FilaDryer S1, hang in there. I would expect to see the product available on their site again probably around the end of July, if not sooner.
Excellent video! You are very well spoken and jam pack a ton of information into the video. I think I have had one roll of plastic that definitely could have used a drying. It was a absolute nightmare and I figured it was possibly my settings. After many setting adjustments I eventually tested another roll of plastic, and did determine it was just a bad roll of plastic. I should have attempted drying it to see if it made a difference.
I bought one and never used it. I think I will try it on my tpu now. Thanks for explaining the time left feature, I must have missed that in the directions.
Super Video thanks Bryan! looks great, would like to see the power supply on the side so you could mount it to a wall ( if the cover would open). Is the hole around the filament exit sealed around the filament? It would be great to have at least 10 of them for multiple spools ready to go, but at that price, it may be prohibitive.
Hi Peter! The unit needs three or four inches of space behind it to accommodate the lid, since it's hinged right at the back. The filament hole isn't sealed around the filament, but I don't think it would take much to design & print a little piece to fit that gap and maybe also hold a Bowden tube in place there, in the event you wanted a completely sealed path from the dryer to the printer. If you're wanting a "10-up" solution, a "SuperSize Me" dry box thing like I cobbled together would probably hold that many spools side by side, and keep them dry, on the cheap. 😉
Looks like a pretty good little machine, but a bit expensive. I brought a food dehydrator for exactly this reason, well over a year ago ... never needed to use it yet. I keep all my filament in their original foil/plastic bag and boxes and so far it has served me and my filament well.
Hi Spike! Well, if you haven't modified the food dehydrator, you could always use it to make dried fruit snacks, for you, instead of dried filament snacks for your printers. 😉
That's from Chuy's Tex-Mex restaurant. They've got tons of awesome t-shirts, which *should* be available here (www.chuys.com/shop/tshirts), but for some reason that page is kind of blank. Keep checking back there and hopefully they'll restock that page. 🤔
@@BV3D Hey Bryan, from the website " Chuy's Opco, Inc. does not sell or ship physical gift cards or t-shirts to Arizona, California or Nevada." It doesn't say anything about the UK though:) all these places I'll never get to sample:(
At the moment I use a regular oven. The temp is (as you mentioned) totally different to the dial setting so I have a PID temp controller inline which controls the oven. Works OK. But have a food dehydrator on order and was going to do exactly as you have done and build a mega drying box for several spools.
Hi TYGAMatt! So in your oven-based solution, is that temperature controller a commercially available thing, or a DIY thing? Either way it's cool. The SuperSizeMe box works pretty well. One of the things I wanted to do with it (but never got around to) was adding a relay and some additional code to the temperature & humidity sensor so it could turn itself off when the humidity was below a pre-set value.
@@BV3D Hi Brian. The temp controller is just a simple STC2000 controller and I sneaked the sensor inside the oven. It's wired inline with the mains power. Maybe not the best solution but it works better than the oven alone, which was really an unknown quantity to start with as it was just left at my mates house when he bought it and he didn't want it. Hopefully my food dehydrator will be here in a day or so and I can mess around with that instead. I like your idea of having it controlled by the humidity. That's definitely the way to go and pretty easy to achieve. And since I've been playing with the ESP32 lately then could set it up so that you could keep an eye on what it's doing on a web page. Gotta love electronics and the silly things you can do these days with a bit of lateral thinking
Update. Dehydrator arrived today. Set at 40°C it measures 40 at the bottom and 37 at the top. 70°C measures up to 85 at the bottom and up to around 70 at the top but fluctuates about 10 degrees so is struggling a bit
I live in Utah. It's rather dry here. I've used really old tpu with very little to no issues. I have just contemplated drying my filament to see if little improvements can be made. Funny how you said yours must be wet because it was in the attic. I was wondering if putting mine in my attic with the heat would dry it out some.
The attic here is designed to allow air to flow through. Otherwise it'd be like a solar oven or something. When it's humid (which is a fair bit of the time) that humid air is in the attic. If it's really dry where you are, you may not even need to dry it at all. 👍
Two major problems with 'filament dryers'- 1) There is no fan to remove the moist air- it is retained in the box. How does that work? 2) they are not insulated, so very inefficient. 2g of water is actually very little- 1Kg of PLA is capable of holding over 7.7g of water. Dryers work by increasing the temperature of the surrounding air, and therefore its water absorbing properties. The more humid your location, the more drying you need- and the harder it is to reduce RH! Double trouble... To get, and keep, filament dry requires the use of desiccant (which takes days) and for the reel NEVER to be in free air again. So fit them in cassettes holding desiccant, where they stay until exhausted. Maximum drying time, minimum new moisture. No running costs. Faster operation- no packing/unpacking, just insert cassette. What is not to like?
i like my Sovol 3D FilaDryer it Supports 2 Spools of Filament 1kg or 1 big 3-4kg Spool of Filament.The temperature and time both are adjustable, when you hit the function button , you can set the temperature 40 c, 45c or 50c, hit up button to adjust the temp. When you hit the function button again, you can set the time from 6h to 12 h, hit the up botton, you can adjust the drying time. It has a Humidity Sensor.The humidity will show the humidity of the filament dryer box real-time, it is very convenient for users to take a reference about the humidity of the filament.
Not gonna lie, as much as I like the idea of the S1, I kinda wanna see if I can build your big dryer using like, an old aquarium or something and keeping it on top of my enclosure. Of course that would involve cutting glass…
I needed another of these dryers for my small print farm, so I picked up one of these on Amazon for £31.99, branded as JAYO, not a bad price I thought. Thanks for explaining how to work the front panel, the instructions that came with it were poor to say the least, and the included link to the video by the manufacturer did not help either. These things are a must have, I even use them for PLA for stringing free prints, and a better print quality in general.
@@bratwizard I've noticed that drying the filament (PLA+ in this case) a few times and keeping the spools in the dryers during printing is giving me amazing results, very nice and durable prints and zero stringing. No more leaving spools out in contact with the air for me :)
I am brand new to printing. Im buying my first printer i a week and im doing as much research as possible now. I have watched a couple videos on filament dryers now but in all of them the dont say much if anything about PLA. Are dyers necessary for PLA?
Excellent video! Great insight about desiccant not removing moisture from filament, only preventing additional moisture from being absorbed. I've printed many desiccant containers thinking that this would solve moisture problems. Meanwhile, I bought the Sunlu Filadryer and noticed an improvement in my prints. (Hard to isolate one factor alone, but I think the filament dryer deserves some credit.) So, I'm using the dryer to DRY my filament, and desiccant to help KEEP it dry. Again, thank you!
Just started using mine (the rebranded jayo). One thing I noticed is when printing from the box, during retraction it'll actually pull the box towards my ender 3 v2.
The FilaDryer is a nice unit. I modified it by drilling a new hole in the back and inserting a Boden connector and tube. I print directly from the unit and my heated filament goes directly to the printer without being exposed to open air. The only drawback to the unit is that it runs on a timer and I need it to stay on permanently. I don't use this to dry my filament, I use it to keep it dry while printing. I have a large stainless steel drying oven for that. -- If you do not want to spend the $90 this thing sells for, there is a video on RUclips which shows how to build one yourself, using a 7 watt reptile heater.
Hello Bryan, I am not sure if you are aware but Sunlu is not delivering on their kickstarter promise, they have taken our money and are coming up with excuses why they will not ship the item. In addition they have been selling this item direct without fulfilling kickstarter orders. What can you do do influence this situation as there are over 2500 backers that are being cheated?
Hi Anthony. I'm a backer as well, and was also charged for a product that hasn't shipped. I don't have any special influence with Sunlu, but my next video on Monday talks about the situation. 🙁
I know I am very late to post here but I just got one of these today and look forward to see if it solves my issues. My lcd is crazy bright so they changed something. Also I think a nice upgrade would to have a small motor available to slowly torn the filament when drying. Obviously it would need a different mode when printing from the box.
I've been 3D printing for about 3 years and I've had very little problems with filament. Perhaps it is because I live in Arizona where our humidity levels are very VERY low. In fact I thought it was scientifically impossible to have a humidity in the single digits but I have seen 2% humidity. While we do get some days of rain I don't think our home humidity spikes that quickly. I have seen that the first 6 inches of filament can be brittle, especially if I let it stay ready for use in my 3D Printed and not being used for a week or so. So, now I always unload my filament. Not sure if that brittle 6 inches is due to humidity or perhaps the complete reverse since it's so dry here. Now here is a question. As you know, many of us have 10-20 rolls of filament so we don't want to spend $40-60 on 10-20 dry boxes. So, do we get the same result in drying for 6 hrs when we need it vs. keeping it constantly in the dry box. In other words an on demand cycle. Example, I want to build something in a Black PLA. How would a Black PLA that has been stored in a dry box for 3 months do vs. a Black PLA that was stored on a shelf and then put into a dry box for a 6 hr cycle?
Fyi, this dryer DOES work. I had some Taulman 230 Nylon. Was printing fine new. But after a few uses, put back in a Ziploc 1 gallon bag with the desiccant it came with, I had finally had trouble with it. The print had terrible layer adhesion and was brittle. I could just crush the print and peel apart. Figured it had accumulated too much water (hygroscopic). So bought this. Set at highest 55c temp, let roll of Taulman 230 in it for about 5 hours. Left it in the dryer while printing. VOILA!!! Print came out perfect and strong as if nylon new again! Yeah, drying filament is a real thing.
I just got my first 3d printer off Facebook market place it had one of theses with it I'm a newbe to this stuff i was wondering what it was for thanks for the info.
Has anybody ever tried vacuum drying? Water will vaporize in a vacuum pretty quickly and I assume it would take a lot less electricity. Heat coils are power hogs.
Nice video! eSun makes a similar drying storage box and the price varies a lot but they sell it at Microcenter for $60. I haven't tried it but I have been considering getting one for a more compact solution.
Hi John! I think the $60 price point is the sweet spot for a purpose-made drying box, whether eSun, or Sunlu, or anyone else. The purpose-made boxes are only a little more expensive than DIY-ing your own from a countertop food dehydrator, but they use less space, and you don't have to do anything but put filament in it and press a button. 👍
This unit has a design flaw. The temperature sensor is beside the heater, so the temperature inside the heater is always below the setting. Like ~10 degree C below what you set. The unit needs a fan too. it take 4-5 hours of modification.
Just set up 2 of these in my printing room, one thing to be aware of is that it will barely fit Fiberlogy spools im thinking i may have to alter them to enable them to turn in the dryer if i want to use them while printing. thanks for the video, have subbed
It isn't airtight though, so this can't be used for long term storage. It should be completely airtight except for a sealable vent for drying. Once it is dry the filament would stay dry and only need a touch-up every now and then. This is the first wave of consumer filament dryers so I'm interested to see how they advance. For the cost I'd rather have a diy solution but if they get better in the future I might get some of these.
So is the general strategy here to dry newly opened filament? to rule out any inherit moisture? then bag and dry it with those drying bags to prevent the freshly dried filament or at least slow it down considerably.. then maybe after a long storage give the roll another drying session? I have 4 printers so I'm trying to figure out if I can manage to not have to buy 4 of these things.. i'm surprised to hear from folks that factory sealed filament would have moisture in it out of the seal bag.. is this true for anyone else?
Do you have any knowledge in regards to filament reabsorbing moisture after it has been printed? Do you also do any post-printing washing and curing? I have been printing for a couple of years and am only now seriously looking at these three areras. Thank you very much for your superb video.
Hi, I'm pretty sure if you print something using a filament which absorbs moisture from the air, the thing you printed would also absorb moisture from the air. But that shouldn't affect the part much, once it's printed. Moisture in the filament causes problems during printing because the moisture gets boiled off in the nozzle as steam (it'll make little popping sounds and stuff), and it affects how the filament behaves as it's being extruded. I don't generally do finish work on the things I print. Once in a while I'll use some automotive primer spray paint and sandpaper (that's one of those lather-rinse-repeat things where you keep priming and sanding until it's smooth enough for the paint you intend to use). Thanks for watching!
Plastic will regain moisture again after been printed, no problem, the part was done. But, the drying process help you during the printing, making the bond better between layers. No bubbles or other microscopic imperfections.
2 years on Yep a Sun Lu Filament Dryer 2 has come out. And a big LCD fully lit control scree with all controls needed.. Just damn pricey to buy at around £80 on Amazon UK. I have Two of the Sun Lu filament mate dyers That I got direct from the company UK site for the same price as One of the S1 would have cost. that's a deal indeed. I wished to get the S2 version But again so pricey. And yes the front display on the S1 are all dull and hard to see unlike the bright S2 display. The one thing I found though was, If I set the time on the S1 say to 10 Hours, it shows that time changing as it goes But the time it is running for is not that set time? It will instead run for maybe 4 hours longer than it was set for! I been told though that PETG must be dried at 65 C or more to dry it right the S1 only goes up to 55 C so I end up setting the time to twice as long to allow for the lower top temperature. And I now brought my 1st Nylon filament that may need higher temp than the rest that the dryer can't do? I looked for a filament dryer to do Nylon and PETG temperature drying levels, But there is none I found that are price wise affordable for me. and some have other problems like not being big enough to hold some sized filament spools due to the inner size of the spool not fitting on the center spool holding area ( some dryers have a fan in a tube where the spool sits on it so the inner spool hole matters ). Shame that the dryer makers don't allow for the different spool inner hole sizes the outer size of the spools. so many different ones.
I think this is not worth the price. I just bought it but it has some problems. Firstly the rollers in the filadryer is so terrible that the filament cant roll quickly enough and causes under extrusions. Secondly the holes on the box can not work with 750g spools. In this case I ve cut away the plastic with my dremel so the filament can find its way through. I think it is losing its purpose. If I can not print while drying filament then why I am not using an oven or a food dehydrator ??
Just scanned a new subscriber! Thank you for your video I enjoy watching them and they are very beneficial to watch as I’m new in 3D printing. I apologize if this has been asked already, but how long does it take to heat up from cold start to 50°C?
Hi John, I don't know if anybody asked or not. I have two of them, so I turned them both on to find out. With ambient temperature of 26˚C, one of them got to 50˚C in five minutes, the other got there in six minutes.
"Dryin' Bryan" at your service. Great video mate, keep up the good work and update your Sub Counter in you vids. You have WAY more subs now. Cheers, JAYTEE
Good review! Thanks! I keep my filament in a sealed box with an air dryer,, question, what is the optional humidly for storing filament? Thanks Brian, keep the great videos coming!
Hi Dwight! Some sites say to keep it in the range of 10-15% relative humidity, others say it's fine if kept below 30%. I saw one site saying that 30-50% relative humidity was fine, but I don't believe that. It's been in the 40-50% range here where I live, and the FilaDryer S1 managed to remove 2ml of water from it. There may not be a definitive answer, but the lower %humidity you can keep your filament, the better. I try to keep the percentage under 20% in the SuperSizeMe box I made.
Why wouldn't these boxes allow continuous heating (no automatic timer shutoff) at moderate temperatures, say 100 degrees Fahrenheit, for long-term storage?
Interesting machine. I've been drying in the oven. My PETG was a bit watery. I have just finished getting my printer mechanically dialled in, ready to test the newly dried PETG and my motherboard burned. That's what I get, right?
I can understand that it dries the filament by that heater plate but I was wondering how does the humidity get out of the dryer ? . I would have thought there might have been some vents or something . or maybe see some water droplets on the clear plastic cover , any ideas on this ?
I don't know the science behind it all, but my guess is that by warming the air in the chamber, the air is able to hold more moisture (like, on a weather report, the meteorologist may talk about "warm, moist air"). At the same time, the heat causes moisture to evaporate from the filament. So the air in the unit is absorbing the moisture that's leaving the filament. When you open the lid at the end of a drying session, that air is instantly released into the room, and the dried filament either gets loaded on a printer or parked in a ziploc bag with desiccant. I do know that the TPU I dried in the unit weighed 2g less when it was done, so something weighing 2g was removed from the filament. The most likely thing is water.
Any idea about how to make the filament roll in order to receive a more even de-moisturification ? Because considering the heat source is on the bottom, in my idea the filament on the top will receive a less drying power. Thanks for the nice video
Another option: on thingyverse you can find a model for a corner piece that you install into the lid and that houses a fan to circulate the air. I haven’t tried it myself yet (missing some parts), but apparently people are achieving much better heat distribution with this mod. Only downside is that you have to modify the unit a bit to accommodate this and either drill a hole to run the fan wires outside to a power supply or integrate it into the Sunlu circuit. The latter is a much bigger undertaking, of course.
Hi, the S1 doesn't monitor the relative humidity level. It simply doesn't have a sensor for it. You can set the temperature and the run time, and the display shows you the temperature inside the dryer. But it doesn't have the capability to show the relative humidity inside.
Thanks for the great review video. One question. Have you used this as the feeding spool holder during an actual print and if so, does it solve any of the feed problems one might experience because of the rigid coil shape of the filament? I get the impression the coil might be relaxed a bit as it feeds out of the box? I have a Dremel Idea Builder and I feed it from the uncovered top with an aftermarket spool. The singular problem I have with my setup and this great device, is frustrated feeding when the inner material which is rigid and more tightly coiled resists feeding and can actually tangle and or snap. (Big surprise in the morning 🙁) thanks in advance if you’ve time to answer.
those desiccant packs almost never work. they are saturated as soon as they are taken out of the bag. these dryers, as long as they have internal flow via a fan, and a temperature above 50 degrees c, will work, if you leave them a few hours. you need higher temps for other filaments. I personally dry my filaments RIGHT at the glass transition temp. I heat, then feel the filament. I keep increasing the temp until it gets slightly noodly and then decrease the temp by like 2c. been doing it that way for 2 years and stringing, even with nylon, is a non-issue for me.
I had taken this video down for about a month, because of issues with Sunlu's Kickstarter campaign (I was a backer of it). I did finally receive my Kickstarter unit, about a month after people had been able to buy it on Amazon. I've got a whole other video about the Kickstarter issues, but since I did finally receive my unit (several weeks ago at this point), I'm making this video public again. Apologies if you received a notification about it.
My girlfriend gave this to me as a birthday gift yesterday, and I ran across your video today. She knows nothing about 3D printing, but said she did her homework before choosing this one. I trust her judgment, but I'm still glad to see your review confirming her choice. Thanks for doing this video.
So you don't trust her judgement hence looking up a review.
@@AustinMichael they said they ran across this review 💀
She's a keeper
If she did any research at all, she a keeper for sure.
3 years later: Better of put a ring on that pal. lol
Brilliant review and was what pushed me to get one of these. Mine arrived on 19th Jan 2021 and there seem to be a few updates. The inside insulation is now a single layer of black rather than the foil. It comes with Teflon tubs for the filament holes (1 fitted and 4 spare) and lastly the backlight on the LCD has been improved and it can be easily read.
The print bed is typically big enough to hold a roll sitting flat. Set the roll on the print bed at end of day, cover with the box it came in (cut out the bottom), set print bed to 55C, wake up and it is ready.
Cool tip! Thanks!
I know this is old, but I had kind of yolo bought this off Amazon without really watching reviews and I can also attest that it definitely works. My buddy gave me some multi-year old filament and it popped a lot and was messy. After drying it for 6 hours it definitely prints better and has no pops while printing.
same. Saw the price and it was comparable to 1kg of filament. I had some poor performing filament that I think this will salvage.
TL:DR The unit dries well. It removed 2 cubic centimetres from a TPU roll. It's quiet, small, and looks good. The computer interface is good, but the backlight is dim.
7:20 for the SunLu review
8:37 for instructions for how to use the SunLu (and clones too according to the comments),
11:48 for TPU moisture removal test;
In Australia, power outlets have a switch :) Oh btw, my Sunlu S1 have a bright screen
Got mine on Amazon for 62 bucks, free shipping. Showed up in 1 day. Seems to be working well so far.
About to try some CF nylon, which is the reason why I bought this dryer.
Boy, does this thing work! I had nearly a full roll of Matterhackers PETG that sat around for like 2-3 years. The print I tried to use was hideous; it was covered in tough seam nodules and cat-whisker like stringing. The hot end made these delecate snap, crackle and pop sounds while printing and kew immediately that moisture was the problem. After 8 hours total drying in 12, still some stringing but vastly better. And after neary 12 total hours of drying in my first 24 hours having this unit, the PETG prints better than brand new!
As for your review video: very thorough and well done!
Just received the unit you discussed. Thank goodness you put the video up because I got a warning SUNLU's manual was hosted from a sketchy website and I received a warning. I will pre-weigh all my old spools and get a benchmark to work from before and after. Thanks so much.
Practical print tests will be better than theory.
I really enjoyed that, thank you Bryan.
Very interesting to see just how much water it removed from that TPU - I've yet to measure anything with mine but it did help me recover some 4 year old filament which was a nice surprise.
It was good to hear the instruction manual get a mention as I did the English translation for SUNLU and produced the CAD drawings used in there.
Hi! You did a great job on the English translation. I know space is limited in these little instruction guides, but it was easy to understand how to operate the S1. I was surprised at how much water it removed from the TPU. And dry filament is happy filament! 😄
You are an excellent speaker. I didnt realize how hard it is until I made some of my own videos on a different channel.
Cheers for making this video. I bought a unit from amazon (in Jan 2023) and my instructions were a lot more sparse than yours. Just a few pictures and a QR code. The link from the code was for a very poor quality, practically unreadable picture of your instructions. Trying to download instructions from the Sunlu website set off a lot of security alerts on my browser. So I really appreciated this video with instructions on how to use my unit. Many thanks
I ordered one today via your affiliate link. Thanks for the great review.
I live in the SoCal desert so I just place the filament outside for a few hours. Right now, I have some sitting outside in the shade because the humidity is currently at 19%. Doing this saves me a ton of money because its FREE.
Hi Bill! That's awesome -- Mother Nature for the win! I'm sitting at a relative humidity value of 40%, more or less, so putting my filament outside would not make it happy. 😬
@@BV3D Hi Bryan, Everything I have ever read said that the Filament should have a a humidity level between 35-40%. I only take mine outside when I cross that 45% humidity inside the house.
Hi Bryan,
I hope you’re doing awesomely well. Another great video. I like the variety that you’re putting up now. Good luck can’t wait till you’re at 10,000.
David
Hi David! I'm doing well, apart from being super busy at work and desperately needing a haircut. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it, and I hope you're doing well, too! 😀
BV3D: Bryan Vines doing very well super busy at work as well. Got my haircut last week, could not stand the COVID cut any longer! Be safe!
My printer is in same room as my koi pond and greenroom. This took me from not being able to print to almost every single print is perfect. 10 out of 10 for me
Actually if you compare the methods of filament drying, a filament dryer like the sunlu is much superior to oven or fooddehydryer. The filament on a spool is normaly packed quite dense, so the hot air barly finds it ways inside to dry it quickly everywhere - while of course the humid air had weeks or months to get inside. So a drying in a oven or fooddehydrer will mostly dry the outer rounds of filament, unless you dry it very long.
With a special filament dryer, this is no problem at all. I start drying of a spool mostly about 0.5h to 1h before I want to start printing. This is enough time to dry the outer rounds of the spool. Than I load the filament to the printer and start printing. As the filament dryer keeps drying, the warm air always keep on drying the outer windings. So it does not matter the core of the spool has not gotten dry - as if it hasn't it's obvious because it not became an outer winding as the print was already finished.
So with oven or food dehydryer you have to do a very long time to go to the core. While with a filament dryer you simply start halve an hour before starting printing, only drying the filament you need.
I like the Aquara PETG CF20 a lot, but got bad results after a time. Since I started to use the Filament dryer, quality increased a lot. Even if using a fresh unpacked spool, the quality of the prints became better than ever. On this filament I start drying about 2h before starting a print.
For my Prusa mk3s I use www.thingiverse.com/thing:2948176 ( I extended it a bit) to use a tube (4mm outside 3mm inside) as a filament guide and changed the power cord to one with a 90° angled. So I can place the Filament dryer directly side by side with the printer, guiding the filament directly from the dryer to the extruder.
On bowden printers you must be carefull: Even below glas transition temperature you might get into trouble at parts with many retractions. On sime prints the filament pass the feeder up to 3 times forward and backwards. If this happens, the filament might deform and stuck at the feeders output. An oval with 2.1mm by 1.25mm obviously do not fit into a 2mm tube... In this case you might dry the filament some hours before printing, use only 35°C while printing and lower the tension of the feeder (happend on my Prusa Mini with bondtech upgrade). On direct extruders this is no problem, as the retractions are smaller.
I think either one will dry about as well, only a purpose built will be a bit faster as it will take less time to reach the intended temperature, but make much less noise and consume much less power.
I have one and it works great. Some filaments need a double-dip but it gets the job done.
I just ran into a huge problem with my PLA filament suddenly clogging my nozzle every few minutes after getting nice prints on my Ender 3 pro. Most of the year this is no problem in Montreal even though we are on an island But with 90 degree days everything got muggy and my extruder was clogging up. I thought it was just the heat that was screwing up the cpu in my printer but Dr. Vax set me straight. So I ordered the same food dehydrator you showed on your video from amazon for 55 Canadian dollars.
Terrific review. I just purchased one via your Amazon link. Thanks.
Hello 3D Printing Friends! I've seen a number of comments about the lack of availability of this product. I think there was a limited production run, and I, along with a few others, received a unit. Sunlu commented (and responded to a few other comments), indicating they're taking this to Kickstarter in mid-July. So it looks like they're building hype for the product, attempting to gauge interest, and hoping for some Kickstarter exposure, similar to what Creality did with the CR6-SE.
I've been very impressed by the unit I received. If Sunlu is able to deliver the same build quality as the product I received, and keep it at the $60 USD price point or lower, they're going to do really well with it.
So if you're interested in the FilaDryer S1, hang in there. I would expect to see the product available on their site again probably around the end of July, if not sooner.
Excellent video! You are very well spoken and jam pack a ton of information into the video. I think I have had one roll of plastic that definitely could have used a drying. It was a absolute nightmare and I figured it was possibly my settings. After many setting adjustments I eventually tested another roll of plastic, and did determine it was just a bad roll of plastic. I should have attempted drying it to see if it made a difference.
I bought this model based on this video and started using it 6/7/23. I had no back lighting dimness problem on the menu screen.
Awesome explanation, subscribed and liked
Note: The display on the Amazon production version is nice and well back-lit..
Same with my KickStarter version (which is the retail version). I’m glad they made it brighter.
I just received my S1 from Amazon. The screen is certainly not bright or blue. It is weak to say the least
@@CrazeUK maybe you got an older version.
I bought one and never used it. I think I will try it on my tpu now. Thanks for explaining the time left feature, I must have missed that in the directions.
My unit does not turn off unless you hold a button. I wish it had a wall mount, and hole at the top back too for the filament.
Super Video thanks Bryan!
looks great, would like to see the power supply on the side so you could mount it to a wall ( if the cover would open). Is the hole around the filament exit sealed around the filament? It would be great to have at least 10 of them for multiple spools ready to go, but at that price, it may be prohibitive.
Hi Peter! The unit needs three or four inches of space behind it to accommodate the lid, since it's hinged right at the back. The filament hole isn't sealed around the filament, but I don't think it would take much to design & print a little piece to fit that gap and maybe also hold a Bowden tube in place there, in the event you wanted a completely sealed path from the dryer to the printer.
If you're wanting a "10-up" solution, a "SuperSize Me" dry box thing like I cobbled together would probably hold that many spools side by side, and keep them dry, on the cheap. 😉
Looks like a pretty good little machine, but a bit expensive.
I brought a food dehydrator for exactly this reason, well over a year ago ... never needed to use it yet. I keep all my filament in their original foil/plastic bag and boxes and so far it has served me and my filament well.
Hi Spike! Well, if you haven't modified the food dehydrator, you could always use it to make dried fruit snacks, for you, instead of dried filament snacks for your printers. 😉
@@BV3D True, but what a waste 😂
Getting Adam Savage vibes. Great video!
I need that so much, not the dryer, the T shirt
That's from Chuy's Tex-Mex restaurant. They've got tons of awesome t-shirts, which *should* be available here (www.chuys.com/shop/tshirts), but for some reason that page is kind of blank. Keep checking back there and hopefully they'll restock that page. 🤔
@@BV3D Hey Bryan, from the website " Chuy's Opco, Inc. does not sell or ship physical gift cards or t-shirts to Arizona, California or Nevada." It doesn't say anything about the UK though:) all these places I'll never get to sample:(
@@BV3D Bryan, I've just been looking at the menu, you just don't appreciate how spoiled you are:)
At the moment I use a regular oven. The temp is (as you mentioned) totally different to the dial setting so I have a PID temp controller inline which controls the oven. Works OK. But have a food dehydrator on order and was going to do exactly as you have done and build a mega drying box for several spools.
Hi TYGAMatt! So in your oven-based solution, is that temperature controller a commercially available thing, or a DIY thing? Either way it's cool. The SuperSizeMe box works pretty well. One of the things I wanted to do with it (but never got around to) was adding a relay and some additional code to the temperature & humidity sensor so it could turn itself off when the humidity was below a pre-set value.
@@BV3D Hi Brian. The temp controller is just a simple STC2000 controller and I sneaked the sensor inside the oven. It's wired inline with the mains power. Maybe not the best solution but it works better than the oven alone, which was really an unknown quantity to start with as it was just left at my mates house when he bought it and he didn't want it.
Hopefully my food dehydrator will be here in a day or so and I can mess around with that instead.
I like your idea of having it controlled by the humidity. That's definitely the way to go and pretty easy to achieve. And since I've been playing with the ESP32 lately then could set it up so that you could keep an eye on what it's doing on a web page.
Gotta love electronics and the silly things you can do these days with a bit of lateral thinking
Update. Dehydrator arrived today. Set at 40°C it measures 40 at the bottom and 37 at the top. 70°C measures up to 85 at the bottom and up to around 70 at the top but fluctuates about 10 degrees so is struggling a bit
I live in Utah. It's rather dry here. I've used really old tpu with very little to no issues. I have just contemplated drying my filament to see if little improvements can be made. Funny how you said yours must be wet because it was in the attic. I was wondering if putting mine in my attic with the heat would dry it out some.
The attic here is designed to allow air to flow through. Otherwise it'd be like a solar oven or something. When it's humid (which is a fair bit of the time) that humid air is in the attic. If it's really dry where you are, you may not even need to dry it at all. 👍
Two major problems with 'filament dryers'-
1) There is no fan to remove the moist air- it is retained in the box. How does that work?
2) they are not insulated, so very inefficient.
2g of water is actually very little- 1Kg of PLA is capable of holding over 7.7g of water.
Dryers work by increasing the temperature of the surrounding air, and therefore its water absorbing properties. The more humid your location, the more drying you need- and the harder it is to reduce RH! Double trouble...
To get, and keep, filament dry requires the use of desiccant (which takes days) and for the reel NEVER to be in free air again. So fit them in cassettes holding desiccant, where they stay until exhausted. Maximum drying time, minimum new moisture. No running costs. Faster operation- no packing/unpacking, just insert cassette. What is not to like?
i like my Sovol 3D FilaDryer it Supports 2 Spools of Filament 1kg or 1 big 3-4kg Spool of Filament.The temperature and time both are adjustable, when you hit the function button , you can set the temperature 40 c, 45c or 50c, hit up button to adjust the temp. When you hit the function button again, you can set the time from 6h to 12 h, hit the up botton, you can adjust the drying time.
It has a Humidity Sensor.The humidity will show the humidity of the filament dryer box real-time, it is very convenient for users to take a reference about the humidity of the filament.
Not gonna lie, as much as I like the idea of the S1, I kinda wanna see if I can build your big dryer using like, an old aquarium or something and keeping it on top of my enclosure. Of course that would involve cutting glass…
Just heating without airflow does nothing, that's why clothes dryers have vent pipes.
Amazing video! My first time visiting your channel. I just subscribed and gave a thumbs up!
Awesome! Thank you! Sorry - I'm a little bit behind responding to comments! 😁
Another excellent informative video. Great T shirt too.
Thanks again, Corey Mac! I'm glad you liked the Tacocat shirt! 😄
Even a tiny bit of water can make a huge difference when changed to gas state. Steam tends to have 1700 times the volume of liquid water.
I needed another of these dryers for my small print farm, so I picked up one of these on Amazon for £31.99, branded as JAYO, not a bad price I thought. Thanks for explaining how to work the front panel, the instructions that came with it were poor to say the least, and the included link to the video by the manufacturer did not help either. These things are a must have, I even use them for PLA for stringing free prints, and a better print quality in general.
"Poor Instructions" is a considerable understatement.
@@bratwizard I've bought a bunch of them now, despite lol
@@joseico90 Do you like them? Do they work? I just fired mine up for the first time this morning.
@@bratwizard they do the job, so I'm happy.
@@bratwizard I've noticed that drying the filament (PLA+ in this case) a few times and keeping the spools in the dryers during printing is giving me amazing results, very nice and durable prints and zero stringing. No more leaving spools out in contact with the air for me :)
Great Job on the video Bryan.
Thanks! (and thanks for watching!) 👍
I am brand new to printing. Im buying my first printer i a week and im doing as much research as possible now. I have watched a couple videos on filament dryers now but in all of them the dont say much if anything about PLA. Are dyers necessary for PLA?
Excellent video! Great insight about desiccant not removing moisture from filament, only preventing additional moisture from being absorbed. I've printed many desiccant containers thinking that this would solve moisture problems. Meanwhile, I bought the Sunlu Filadryer and noticed an improvement in my prints. (Hard to isolate one factor alone, but I think the filament dryer deserves some credit.) So, I'm using the dryer to DRY my filament, and desiccant to help KEEP it dry. Again, thank you!
Just started using mine (the rebranded jayo). One thing I noticed is when printing from the box, during retraction it'll actually pull the box towards my ender 3 v2.
The FilaDryer is a nice unit. I modified it by drilling a new hole in the back and inserting a Boden connector and tube. I print directly from the unit and my heated filament goes directly to the printer without being exposed to open air. The only drawback to the unit is that it runs on a timer and I need it to stay on permanently. I don't use this to dry my filament, I use it to keep it dry while printing. I have a large stainless steel drying oven for that. -- If you do not want to spend the $90 this thing sells for, there is a video on RUclips which shows how to build one yourself, using a 7 watt reptile heater.
As an experienced reptile keeper of 25+ years, idk that I'd trust a 7 watt reptile heater to dry a spool of filament. Just my 2 cents.
I bought this on ebay for $40 CAD new and free shipping, works great
Hello Bryan, I am not sure if you are aware but Sunlu is not delivering on their kickstarter promise, they have taken our money and are coming up with excuses why they will not ship the item. In addition they have been selling this item direct without fulfilling kickstarter orders. What can you do do influence this situation as there are over 2500 backers that are being cheated?
Hi Anthony. I'm a backer as well, and was also charged for a product that hasn't shipped. I don't have any special influence with Sunlu, but my next video on Monday talks about the situation. 🙁
you're a really good host, Subbed.
Great video
I know I am very late to post here but I just got one of these today and look forward to see if it solves my issues. My lcd is crazy bright so they changed something. Also I think a nice upgrade would to have a small motor available to slowly torn the filament when drying. Obviously it would need a different mode when printing from the box.
looks like theyre coming out with an S2 which has a second heating element on top and like he also suggested it has rgb lighting
I don't know how old this video is but Sunlu does have a S2 Filament Dryer now.
I heard all you have to do is just use the cardboard box that your filament comes in poke some holes on the top put it under heat bed and Wala👍🏽
I've been 3D printing for about 3 years and I've had very little problems with filament. Perhaps it is because I live in Arizona where our humidity levels are very VERY low. In fact I thought it was scientifically impossible to have a humidity in the single digits but I have seen 2% humidity. While we do get some days of rain I don't think our home humidity spikes that quickly. I have seen that the first 6 inches of filament can be brittle, especially if I let it stay ready for use in my 3D Printed and not being used for a week or so. So, now I always unload my filament. Not sure if that brittle 6 inches is due to humidity or perhaps the complete reverse since it's so dry here.
Now here is a question. As you know, many of us have 10-20 rolls of filament so we don't want to spend $40-60 on 10-20 dry boxes. So, do we get the same result in drying for 6 hrs when we need it vs. keeping it constantly in the dry box. In other words an on demand cycle. Example, I want to build something in a Black PLA. How would a Black PLA that has been stored in a dry box for 3 months do vs. a Black PLA that was stored on a shelf and then put into a dry box for a 6 hr cycle?
Fyi, this dryer DOES work.
I had some Taulman 230 Nylon. Was printing fine new. But after a few uses, put back in a Ziploc 1 gallon bag with the desiccant it came with, I had finally had trouble with it.
The print had terrible layer adhesion and was brittle. I could just crush the print and peel apart.
Figured it had accumulated too much water (hygroscopic).
So bought this.
Set at highest 55c temp, let roll of Taulman 230 in it for about 5 hours. Left it in the dryer while printing.
VOILA!!! Print came out perfect and strong as if nylon new again!
Yeah, drying filament is a real thing.
I have SUNLU PA nylon, I will try to dry it for 6 hours and hope it work like yours!
Update I try 6hours drying and my nylon still blobbing when I try to extrude it..
@@michaelquinn1926 what is blobbing?
If it's wet it would be popping. You must have other issues.
Did Sunlu send you a sponsor test version?
I just got my first 3d printer off Facebook market place it had one of theses with it I'm a newbe to this stuff i was wondering what it was for thanks for the info.
Has anybody ever tried vacuum drying? Water will vaporize in a vacuum pretty quickly and I assume it would take a lot less electricity. Heat coils are power hogs.
Stefan (CNC Kitchen) has a video comparing the two methods. It's here: ruclips.net/video/eqQRN9TUw08/видео.html
My question is. Is this better than putting all filaments inside a big plastic box and pour Rice on it ?
Nice video! eSun makes a similar drying storage box and the price varies a lot but they sell it at Microcenter for $60. I haven't tried it but I have been considering getting one for a more compact solution.
Hi John! I think the $60 price point is the sweet spot for a purpose-made drying box, whether eSun, or Sunlu, or anyone else. The purpose-made boxes are only a little more expensive than DIY-ing your own from a countertop food dehydrator, but they use less space, and you don't have to do anything but put filament in it and press a button. 👍
This unit has a design flaw. The temperature sensor is beside the heater, so the temperature inside the heater is always below the setting. Like ~10 degree C below what you set. The unit needs a fan too. it take 4-5 hours of modification.
Just set up 2 of these in my printing room, one thing to be aware of is that it will barely fit Fiberlogy spools im thinking i may have to alter them to enable them to turn in the dryer if i want to use them while printing. thanks for the video, have subbed
Fantastic video. For improvements on the S1 Filament dryer though...I much rather have space for two or three spools over an RGB screen! :)
great Bryan cheers
It isn't airtight though, so this can't be used for long term storage. It should be completely airtight except for a sealable vent for drying. Once it is dry the filament would stay dry and only need a touch-up every now and then. This is the first wave of consumer filament dryers so I'm interested to see how they advance. For the cost I'd rather have a diy solution but if they get better in the future I might get some of these.
How long before you can use the filament to print do you have to wait for the 6 hour cycle to complete?
Suscribed, thank you for the quality and entertaining infos :)
So is the general strategy here to dry newly opened filament? to rule out any inherit moisture? then bag and dry it with those drying bags to prevent the freshly dried filament or at least slow it down considerably.. then maybe after a long storage give the roll another drying session? I have 4 printers so I'm trying to figure out if I can manage to not have to buy 4 of these things.. i'm surprised to hear from folks that factory sealed filament would have moisture in it out of the seal bag.. is this true for anyone else?
Do you have any knowledge in regards to filament reabsorbing moisture after it has been printed? Do you also do any post-printing washing and curing? I have been printing for a couple of years and am only now seriously looking at these three areras. Thank you very much for your superb video.
Hi, I'm pretty sure if you print something using a filament which absorbs moisture from the air, the thing you printed would also absorb moisture from the air. But that shouldn't affect the part much, once it's printed. Moisture in the filament causes problems during printing because the moisture gets boiled off in the nozzle as steam (it'll make little popping sounds and stuff), and it affects how the filament behaves as it's being extruded.
I don't generally do finish work on the things I print. Once in a while I'll use some automotive primer spray paint and sandpaper (that's one of those lather-rinse-repeat things where you keep priming and sanding until it's smooth enough for the paint you intend to use).
Thanks for watching!
Plastic will regain moisture again after been printed, no problem, the part was done. But, the drying process help you during the printing, making the bond better between layers. No bubbles or other microscopic imperfections.
Does it have a fan? Or a vent? Or any way to exchange the moist air with dry air?
Food dehydrator come in use once again. Once for audio tape now for filament
Sometimes I wonder if anybody uses food dehydrators for actual food! 😄
2 years on Yep a Sun Lu Filament Dryer 2 has come out. And a big LCD fully lit control scree with all controls needed.. Just damn pricey to buy at around £80 on Amazon UK.
I have Two of the Sun Lu filament mate dyers That I got direct from the company UK site for the same price as One of the S1 would have cost. that's a deal indeed.
I wished to get the S2 version But again so pricey. And yes the front display on the S1 are all dull and hard to see unlike the bright S2 display.
The one thing I found though was, If I set the time on the S1 say to 10 Hours, it shows that time changing as it goes But the time it is running for is not that set time?
It will instead run for maybe 4 hours longer than it was set for! I been told though that PETG must be dried at 65 C or more to dry it right the S1 only goes up to 55 C so I end up setting the time
to twice as long to allow for the lower top temperature. And I now brought my 1st Nylon filament that may need higher temp than the rest that the dryer can't do?
I looked for a filament dryer to do Nylon and PETG temperature drying levels, But there is none I found that are price wise affordable for me. and some have other problems
like not being big enough to hold some sized filament spools due to the inner size of the spool not fitting on the center spool holding area
( some dryers have a fan in a tube where the spool sits on it so the inner spool hole matters ).
Shame that the dryer makers don't allow for the different spool inner hole sizes the outer size of the spools. so many different ones.
I dont use a dryer with my pla, ive used pla that is 6 months old and it still prints fine.
Thanks another thing on my list?
Do we know if filament with cardboard spools are compatible with the dryers?
Well done Bryan
Thank you, Zimmy! 😃
I think this is not worth the price. I just bought it but it has some problems. Firstly the rollers in the filadryer is so terrible that the filament cant roll quickly enough and causes under extrusions. Secondly the holes on the box can not work with 750g spools. In this case I ve cut away the plastic with my dremel so the filament can find its way through. I think it is losing its purpose. If I can not print while drying filament then why I am not using an oven or a food dehydrator ??
Interesting review
Thanks for sharing :-)
Thank you! (and thanks for watching!) ☺
Just scanned a new subscriber! Thank you for your video I enjoy watching them and they are very beneficial to watch as I’m new in 3D printing. I apologize if this has been asked already, but how long does it take to heat up from cold start to 50°C?
Hi John, I don't know if anybody asked or not. I have two of them, so I turned them both on to find out. With ambient temperature of 26˚C, one of them got to 50˚C in five minutes, the other got there in six minutes.
"Dryin' Bryan" at your service. Great video mate, keep up the good work and update your Sub Counter in you vids. You have WAY more subs now. Cheers, JAYTEE
"Dryin' Bryan"! Well done, Jaytee!
@@greengate3d Just trying to live up to Bryan's pun-master status on twitter
Thanks JAYTEE! I'm glad you and I share the same dry sense of humor. I guess I should update that little graphic. Have an awesome day! 👍
@@BV3D Did you just say "dry" sense of humor? :-D
@@greengate3d Yes. Yes, I did. ;)
Good review! Thanks!
I keep my filament in a sealed box with an air dryer,, question, what is the optional humidly for storing filament?
Thanks Brian, keep the great videos coming!
Hi Dwight! Some sites say to keep it in the range of 10-15% relative humidity, others say it's fine if kept below 30%. I saw one site saying that 30-50% relative humidity was fine, but I don't believe that. It's been in the 40-50% range here where I live, and the FilaDryer S1 managed to remove 2ml of water from it. There may not be a definitive answer, but the lower %humidity you can keep your filament, the better. I try to keep the percentage under 20% in the SuperSizeMe box I made.
It's not wide enough for a number of brands of filament which use wider reels. Guess which brands I have the most of...
They appear Sold out on their website via your link, do you have any info regarding when and if they will have stock again soon?
Why wouldn't these boxes allow continuous heating (no automatic timer shutoff) at moderate temperatures, say 100 degrees Fahrenheit, for long-term storage?
I know I'm a little late to the game but could you or would you want to do a video on how to make a large filament dryer.
Thanks for the good information!
Interesting machine. I've been drying in the oven. My PETG was a bit watery. I have just finished getting my printer mechanically dialled in, ready to test the newly dried PETG and my motherboard burned. That's what I get, right?
I can understand that it dries the filament by that heater plate but I was wondering how does the humidity get out of the dryer ?
. I would have thought there might have been some vents or something . or maybe see some water droplets on the clear plastic cover , any ideas on this ?
I don't know the science behind it all, but my guess is that by warming the air in the chamber, the air is able to hold more moisture (like, on a weather report, the meteorologist may talk about "warm, moist air"). At the same time, the heat causes moisture to evaporate from the filament.
So the air in the unit is absorbing the moisture that's leaving the filament. When you open the lid at the end of a drying session, that air is instantly released into the room, and the dried filament either gets loaded on a printer or parked in a ziploc bag with desiccant.
I do know that the TPU I dried in the unit weighed 2g less when it was done, so something weighing 2g was removed from the filament. The most likely thing is water.
The new S1 comes with a fan built in
well made video
Thanks!
2 rollers would suck for protopasta rolls that come with cardboard on the sides.
No humidity gauge and how is the humidity get out?
Thanks.
Thank you for your knowledge!
Any idea about how to make the filament roll in order to receive a more even de-moisturification ?
Because considering the heat source is on the bottom, in my idea the filament on the top will receive a less drying power. Thanks for the nice video
I will occasionally open the lid and give a spool a half rotation at the three-hour point. 🙂🙃
Another option: on thingyverse you can find a model for a corner piece that you install into the lid and that houses a fan to circulate the air. I haven’t tried it myself yet (missing some parts), but apparently people are achieving much better heat distribution with this mod. Only downside is that you have to modify the unit a bit to accommodate this and either drill a hole to run the fan wires outside to a power supply or integrate it into the Sunlu circuit. The latter is a much bigger undertaking, of course.
what for the humidity set? can we set the humidity or it is only a information? just set the temperature an time?
Hi, the S1 doesn't monitor the relative humidity level. It simply doesn't have a sensor for it. You can set the temperature and the run time, and the display shows you the temperature inside the dryer. But it doesn't have the capability to show the relative humidity inside.
@@BV3D yes I can see the humidity with the right button. it s the s1 plus
@@fddpr Ah, OK. I didn't know they made an S1 Plus. I have the S1 and the S2. The S2 has a humidity sensor, bit it's for informational purposes only.
@@BV3Dyes I think so. thank you for your answer.
I wonder if a vacuum bag keep the moisture out
Thanks for the great review video. One question. Have you used this as the feeding spool holder during an actual print and if so, does it solve any of the feed problems one might experience because of the rigid coil shape of the filament? I get the impression the coil might be relaxed a bit as it feeds out of the box? I have a Dremel Idea Builder and I feed it from the uncovered top with an aftermarket spool. The singular problem I have with my setup and this great device, is frustrated feeding when the inner material which is rigid and more tightly coiled resists feeding and can actually tangle and or snap. (Big surprise in the morning 🙁) thanks in advance if you’ve time to answer.
those desiccant packs almost never work. they are saturated as soon as they are taken out of the bag. these dryers, as long as they have internal flow via a fan, and a temperature above 50 degrees c, will work, if you leave them a few hours. you need higher temps for other filaments.
I personally dry my filaments RIGHT at the glass transition temp. I heat, then feel the filament. I keep increasing the temp until it gets slightly noodly and then decrease the temp by like 2c. been doing it that way for 2 years and stringing, even with nylon, is a non-issue for me.