Sorry, this video was a waste. Marketing features and feelings vs no real performance information. You could have simply cut a sponge in half and weighed them, the wet them and weighed them, dried and weighed again. Also could have compared after x number of hours. You could have simply run a thermometer lead and verified temps and time taken to reach. There are dozens of handles for the S4. Gotta wonder why you felt the Polymaker was so good given you don't know how it really compares to any of the others when it comes to performance. All ratings are personal.
I would love to do something like this, but it's so hard because not every roll absorbs the same way. From 1 manufacturer to another things change. It's just so hard to quantify how good one box it. Maybe I'll figure out how to do it though!!! :)
Sponge test or just adding a temperature and humidity sensor to the inside to measure temperature over time. Also: checking for vents! Heating moisture to evaporate doesn't help if the vapor cannot get out! You don't want fully sealed boxes during the heating - the vapor has to get out.
Guys, let admit. Fur such simple thing as one spool dryer creality is the best. Integrated power supply. Best design, have fan. So dry out faster. Polymaker advantage is its modularity... But for such price, im fine with using cloth vacuum bags...
G'day m8 from Sunny Brisbane. I Backed this way back in September/October last yr and got mine mid December. ive had this running since January 24 on mode 2 and once the relative humidity raises to the 50% on average it will turn on and run till the humidity comes down, and thats done by Silica bags, After the filament has been in the dryer for a day or so the time in between heating runs become longer apart as the heat penitrates deep into a roll and overall the whole roll is moist free. I've been using a TPU i got way back in 2020 nearly full and ive no issues at all, also when your going thru the settings and you come across the flashing Sunlu setting it will change the way the light moves. My 3 main filaments are Esun PLA+ ABS+ and PETG, and with this machine you can run it like a AMS but you manually change ya filament, and because it has 2 filament exits for each roll it doent matter where you put it all my printers will pull the filament just fine, certinely better than my S1 and my original Esun Filament dryer. Big Cheers for an outstanding Review....From A M8 Downunder......p.s. it also frees up many power sockets depending on how many of the earlier dryers you may be running
I have the creality PI with the 2 rolls. mine is not that sensitive. What is nice is that during a power outage and power is restored it will continue where it left off
I have the sunlu S4 and absolutely love it. I specifically bought it for the storage mode 2. For the lid handles are files out there to create a bigger handle that slides on, amazing file. I print directly from the printer with all 4 spools. It never destroyed a spool for me, I have PETG, PLA, TPU dried in there. You all can ask me any questions you have.
Same story for me. luckily no problems at all. i bought it on the kickstarter and was honestly fearful that there could be any problems as early backer. lucky me
Do you have a setting you like to use for mix types of filament? I'd like to keep some PLA, PETG and TPU relatively dry for months on end. Would you just go with the lowest temp of the 4?
I just got my S4, but I didn't really think about only having 1 temp setting for 4 different rolls. Are you drying PLA, PETG and TPU with the same setting? Does storage mode 2 automatically kick it on when it reaches a certain %?
On the flight filament drying machine. CNC Kitchen found a way to quantify how good one box it by weighting the filament on a very fine scale before drying it, than after drying it for a given time like 2 hours, 8 hours, a day, or two weeks. And the difference in weight is the humidity lost in the process. And that is the way to go if you want to provide some unbiased data, numbers do not lie, feelings do. Also, recycling the same air to maintain constant temperature does not dry the filament since the air humidity will always be greater than the filament humidity, it will keep it at the same level for air saturation cannot take any more humidity from the filament. Heat helps with evaporation but only up to saturation, hence air re-circulation does not help. What helps is the air flow, if you can pass a constant air flow with less humid than the filament, that will take humidity out fast, if the flow is 10 to 30 C above the room temperature, that process is expedite 3 times faster, if in a vacuum, 10 times faster. Based on those principles of physics, if you place a spool of filament in a vacuum chamber and drive out all the pressure to cosmic space like pressure, that lowers the water boiling temperature next to zero Celsius, enhancing evaporation that in vacuum will be a gas of HHO, hence taken out by the vacuum pump until the filament remains dry. Now that is an expensive drying method, such a gear set easily will of sett you north of a few gran. A cheaper method is constant hot air flow over loose filament (Spools behave more like a solid hence will heat up slower towards the core of the spool and the evaporate from there will re humidify dried out filament at the outer skin of the "solid" that needs re dehydration, hence it takes time) and since I live in the UK where humidity is Chicago levels, I had to come out with methods to keep my filament dry while printing at cheap levels. One cheap level was a food dehydrator from Amazon. But each time I was printing long sessions once the spool was out of the dehydrator was soaking back in hours so I started printing with dry filament and ended up next day with half of my part printed with humid filament, so the solution was printing out of the dehydrator straight, easy said, not easy done. I therefore came up with a design where the spool is in a dedicated dehydrator of my concept, than above and below I have two more s”pool sized” multi loops where I orbit the filament in an oval 3 spools wide at 3 mm distance between filaments passes for like 20 times, that means that from the moment the filament leaves the "spool solid" until it enters the traction gear of the extruder, I have maybe 3 to 5 hours exposed single strings to hot flow that takes away humidity, enough time to keep dry the most soaked spool by the time it hits the hot-end. Dry on the flight, it works. Do you want to print your own?
How fast does humidity creep into the S4 when its turned off? Seems like a good storage solution on a convenience vs performance standpoint. Not expecting it to be air tight, but might be a lazy storage solution
I have 2 dryers. The Eibos single unit dryer and the Sunlu S4. I looked at the polymaker but in Canada it was too expensive when you factor in having to buy more dry boxes. I love the S4 and the Eibos has always been dependable. If the polymaker one drops in price I may consider it.
Yeah I totally understand that. You could use the polymaker like any other dryer and just not buy multiple storage containers. Only store the 1 or 2 rolls that are MOST important. The S4 really is a great option for drying a lot at once though
I just can't find a reason to buy any, lol. For almost 10 years i use fruit dryer with plastic bottle cutoff, as a lid. It's easy to stack 3-5 spools as well.
@RiccoFX No, it's just for drying. I store filaments in vacuum bags. Currently, using ams with silica gel and it's more than enough to keep abs dry until it runs out. Tpu is another beast tho
It's weird how they are all priced so high, every household have an oven that can dry 12 of your spools in one go, and the majority of the filaments come with a vacuum bag. So if for some reason you have to dry some of your spools. Toss them in oven and then store it on the bag.
My out of the box experience with the space pi: doesn't work under 15c ambient temp (night time, winter etc), holds in humidity unless you open it, grindy sounding rollers, the touch screen is so bad, hardly ever picks up button presses unless you press it so hard it warps the screen and pushes the unit forward. would have been better to have the hole for filament on the other side for more direct routing, i have to turn mine around so the screen isnt visible lol
Hey this video was actually really useful and informative. It may not have been the most “technical” information but it was solid information nonetheless and as a complete beginner this has opened the biggest door. So thank you and don’t listen to them negative reviews. Also the Creality does seem nice but I can easily see how it’s a pain. So thanks for being biased lol
Maybe if you'd used the humidity cutoff feature of the S4 your PETG would not have melted? Seriously I'm surprised that all the machines with humidity measurement do not do this since it would save energy quite apart from being easier on the filament!
Nice comparison. I prefer not having preset drying profiles since I find that most filament providers cannot agree on the 'proper' drying temperature and time, for a given filament type. Bambu Labs indicates that ABS should be dried at 80 C for 8 hours. While other say to dry it at 65-70°C for 6 hours.
That's fair to say. I have struggled with that myself in the past. Usually though, I won't much matter if you dry at 45 or 50. The real problem is when you get into temps that destroy materials. As for profiles, they are preset from factory but also offer the ability for you to change and save the profile values.
Most filaments could be dried perfectly at 40 to 50 C (only nylon needs at least 60 C). Higher temperatures only shorten the time, but can also damage the filament. Normally I use 40 C for PLA (50 C makes it more brittle over time) and 50 C for other filaments, mainly PETG and TPU. If the humidity in a dryer is below 30% for more than two hours it is good enough to use. Again with the exception of nylon, which needs to be under 20% humidity for at least three hours.
can the Polyphemus be left on indefinately, or will it always turn off with a timer? i have the eibos Easdry, and i love it since i can just turn it on and leave it on basically forever, since i print out of it. I have a sunlu, that i can set to 99 hours, but cant keep it on forever. i stopped using it over the eibos (the eibos also can get significantly hotter, but the always on was 99% of the selling point for me.)
I hated the Eibos Polyphemus and ended up throwing away two of them last night that I bought brand new. When printing, one of the rollers doesn't turn while your printing from the Polyphemus because it's attached to a motor designed to rotate the spool while drying. The problem is the non-rotating roller causes drag on cardboard spools which creates unnecessary tension on the filament being pulled by the extruder. Furthermore it's difficult to feed the filament through the two holes in the top without pulling excess filament off the spool which then needs to be manually rewound on the spool so it doesn't get tangled. I really don't understand the positive reviews unless it's just used for drying and not for printing. Terrible design IMHO.
@@MOVIEKICKS - Well, the purpose of a filament dryer is primarily to dry filament lol. And for that task, the Eibos Polyphemus excels. I've been using the Polyphemus for over 6 months now and it's worked great. The humidity storage monitor mode that runs the heater and fan at low levels to maintain a constant dry environment is perfect for longer term storage - no other dryer has a feature like that.
AliExpress is often cheaper than Amazon or locally, especially if there is a sale or you have coupons, but you do need to shop around and compare prices, as some sellers will put a ridiculous price. Also it is available worldwide, in many places Amazon isn't
I really wish the Polymaker wasn't so butt ugly, it is one sweet setup. I had JUST bought my Space Pi the day they announced it (cries) lol, I really love the modular design of the Polydryer i just hate how ugly it is. I hope to see printable boxes for the polydryer
The water will turn to gas in the hotend and PSSSSSHHHHHHH (steam bubbles all through your print.) *causing stringing and poopies, and globbies, etc Living in tropical climate is hard for a maker. ROFLMAO
I’m brand new to 3 d printing and before I’m even turning on the printer I’m getting a dryer for the filament. I live in coastal Alabama in TRULY HUMID CONDITIONS. Often at 80-95 percent humidity. With or without rain. The sweat is real. The filament will definitely be affected and I’m grateful to have the input of these videos to show the features of dryers available.
@@michelleagnew8780 Some filaments are affected more than others. PLA and ASA are examples of filaments that tend to absorb less water while filaments like Nylon, PETG and TPU soak up water like a sponge. With PLA, you're probably OK just keeping your filament in a drybag or vacuum bag with some desiccant. You definitely want a dryer for the more hygroscopic ones.
Why is anybody looking at buying dry boxes to begin with? The main reason most of us were able to justify the cost of getting into 3D printing was so we could make stuff ourselves and not have to purchase it. There are hundreds of different DIY dry box plans and videos out there. Ranging from simple silica bead based units to heated boxes using reptile enclosure heaters, with and without hygrometers. Most are simply a plastic cereal storage container, a handful of skateboard bearings, some 3D printed parts, some silica desiccant beads, and maybe a hygrometer or a heater. So, unless you truly believe you haven't given enough of your money to a 3D printer company yet, make your own. Save some money and use your printer for the reason you told yourself you were buying it.
yup stopped watching after the 2nd paid advertising shoved in my face, wtf. I pay for zero ads, It's and insult to my hard earned money to have ads shoved in my face by greedy content creators who think it's okay to bypass youtubes ad system when people pay for no ads....
Shilling for that Polydryer. There is nothing innovative about it and it is grossly overpriced. I have seen a few performance complaints about it as well. This "comparison" video has no real specs to show.
Sorry, this video was a waste. Marketing features and feelings vs no real performance information. You could have simply cut a sponge in half and weighed them, the wet them and weighed them, dried and weighed again. Also could have compared after x number of hours. You could have simply run a thermometer lead and verified temps and time taken to reach.
There are dozens of handles for the S4. Gotta wonder why you felt the Polymaker was so good given you don't know how it really compares to any of the others when it comes to performance. All ratings are personal.
It would be nice to have some effectiveness (drying) comparison and energy draining comparisons as well.
I would love to do something like this, but it's so hard because not every roll absorbs the same way. From 1 manufacturer to another things change. It's just so hard to quantify how good one box it. Maybe I'll figure out how to do it though!!! :)
Sponge test or just adding a temperature and humidity sensor to the inside to measure temperature over time. Also: checking for vents! Heating moisture to evaporate doesn't help if the vapor cannot get out! You don't want fully sealed boxes during the heating - the vapor has to get out.
But do they freaking work that’s what I want to know 🤷🏻♂️
Guys, let admit. Fur such simple thing as one spool dryer creality is the best. Integrated power supply. Best design, have fan. So dry out faster. Polymaker advantage is its modularity... But for such price, im fine with using cloth vacuum bags...
Agreed.
G'day m8 from Sunny Brisbane. I Backed this way back in September/October last yr and got mine mid December. ive had this running since January 24 on mode 2 and once the relative humidity raises to the 50% on average it will turn on and run till the humidity comes down, and thats done by Silica bags, After the filament has been in the dryer for a day or so the time in between heating runs become longer apart as the heat penitrates deep into a roll and overall the whole roll is moist free. I've been using a TPU i got way back in 2020 nearly full and ive no issues at all, also when your going thru the settings and you come across the flashing Sunlu setting it will change the way the light moves. My 3 main filaments are Esun PLA+ ABS+ and PETG, and with this machine you can run it like a AMS but you manually change ya filament, and because it has 2 filament exits for each roll it doent matter where you put it all my printers will pull the filament just fine, certinely better than my S1 and my original Esun Filament dryer. Big Cheers for an outstanding Review....From A M8 Downunder......p.s. it also frees up many power sockets depending on how many of the earlier dryers you may be running
you didn't mention the very loud fan on the Polymaker dryer. Wtf, where is the sound measurement?
I have the creality PI with the 2 rolls. mine is not that sensitive. What is nice is that during a power outage and power is restored it will continue where it left off
I have the sunlu S4 and absolutely love it. I specifically bought it for the storage mode 2.
For the lid handles are files out there to create a bigger handle that slides on, amazing file.
I print directly from the printer with all 4 spools. It never destroyed a spool for me, I have PETG, PLA, TPU dried in there.
You all can ask me any questions you have.
Same story for me. luckily no problems at all. i bought it on the kickstarter and was honestly fearful that there could be any problems as early backer. lucky me
It would be nice if the Sunlu would go to 65C and run for 24 hours.
Do you have a setting you like to use for mix types of filament? I'd like to keep some PLA, PETG and TPU relatively dry for months on end. Would you just go with the lowest temp of the 4?
I just got my S4, but I didn't really think about only having 1 temp setting for 4 different rolls. Are you drying PLA, PETG and TPU with the same setting? Does storage mode 2 automatically kick it on when it reaches a certain %?
On the flight filament drying machine.
CNC Kitchen found a way to quantify how good one box it by weighting the filament on a very fine scale before drying it, than after drying it for a given time like 2 hours, 8 hours, a day, or two weeks.
And the difference in weight is the humidity lost in the process.
And that is the way to go if you want to provide some unbiased data, numbers do not lie, feelings do.
Also, recycling the same air to maintain constant temperature does not dry the filament since the air humidity will always be greater than the filament humidity, it will keep it at the same level for air saturation cannot take any more humidity from the filament.
Heat helps with evaporation but only up to saturation, hence air re-circulation does not help.
What helps is the air flow, if you can pass a constant air flow with less humid than the filament, that will take humidity out fast, if the flow is 10 to 30 C above the room temperature, that process is expedite 3 times faster, if in a vacuum, 10 times faster.
Based on those principles of physics, if you place a spool of filament in a vacuum chamber and drive out all the pressure to cosmic space like pressure, that lowers the water boiling temperature next to zero Celsius, enhancing evaporation that in vacuum will be a gas of HHO, hence taken out by the vacuum pump until the filament remains dry.
Now that is an expensive drying method, such a gear set easily will of sett you north of a few gran.
A cheaper method is constant hot air flow over loose filament (Spools behave more like a solid hence will heat up slower towards the core of the spool and the evaporate from there will re humidify dried out filament at the outer skin of the "solid" that needs re dehydration, hence it takes time) and since I live in the UK where humidity is Chicago levels, I had to come out with methods to keep my filament dry while printing at cheap levels.
One cheap level was a food dehydrator from Amazon. But each time I was printing long sessions once the spool was out of the dehydrator was soaking back in hours so I started printing with dry filament and ended up next day with half of my part printed with humid filament, so the solution was printing out of the dehydrator straight, easy said, not easy done.
I therefore came up with a design where the spool is in a dedicated dehydrator of my concept, than above and below I have two more s”pool sized” multi loops where I orbit the filament in an oval 3 spools wide at 3 mm distance between filaments passes for like 20 times, that means that from the moment the filament leaves the "spool solid" until it enters the traction gear of the extruder, I have maybe 3 to 5 hours exposed single strings to hot flow that takes away humidity, enough time to keep dry the most soaked spool by the time it hits the hot-end.
Dry on the flight, it works.
Do you want to print your own?
I think what you were describing is called a heat pump, it recirculates hot air and heats it. This uses less energy.
How fast does humidity creep into the S4 when its turned off? Seems like a good storage solution on a convenience vs performance standpoint. Not expecting it to be air tight, but might be a lazy storage solution
I have 2 dryers. The Eibos single unit dryer and the Sunlu S4. I looked at the polymaker but in Canada it was too expensive when you factor in having to buy more dry boxes. I love the S4 and the Eibos has always been dependable. If the polymaker one drops in price I may consider it.
Yeah I totally understand that. You could use the polymaker like any other dryer and just not buy multiple storage containers. Only store the 1 or 2 rolls that are MOST important. The S4 really is a great option for drying a lot at once though
I just can't find a reason to buy any, lol. For almost 10 years i use fruit dryer with plastic bottle cutoff, as a lid. It's easy to stack 3-5 spools as well.
@RiccoFX No, it's just for drying. I store filaments in vacuum bags. Currently, using ams with silica gel and it's more than enough to keep abs dry until it runs out. Tpu is another beast tho
It's weird how they are all priced so high, every household have an oven that can dry 12 of your spools in one go, and the majority of the filaments come with a vacuum bag. So if for some reason you have to dry some of your spools. Toss them in oven and then store it on the bag.
My out of the box experience with the space pi: doesn't work under 15c ambient temp (night time, winter etc), holds in humidity unless you open it, grindy sounding rollers, the touch screen is so bad, hardly ever picks up button presses unless you press it so hard it warps the screen and pushes the unit forward. would have been better to have the hole for filament on the other side for more direct routing, i have to turn mine around so the screen isnt visible lol
Hey this video was actually really useful and informative. It may not have been the most “technical” information but it was solid information nonetheless and as a complete beginner this has opened the biggest door. So thank you and don’t listen to them negative reviews. Also the Creality does seem nice but I can easily see how it’s a pain. So thanks for being biased lol
Great video, thank you for sharing.
Maybe if you'd used the humidity cutoff feature of the S4 your PETG would not have melted? Seriously I'm surprised that all the machines with humidity measurement do not do this since it would save energy quite apart from being easier on the filament!
Nice comparison. I prefer not having preset drying profiles since I find that most filament providers cannot agree on the 'proper' drying temperature and time, for a given filament type. Bambu Labs indicates that ABS should be dried at 80 C for 8 hours. While other say to dry it at 65-70°C for 6 hours.
That's fair to say. I have struggled with that myself in the past. Usually though, I won't much matter if you dry at 45 or 50. The real problem is when you get into temps that destroy materials. As for profiles, they are preset from factory but also offer the ability for you to change and save the profile values.
Most filaments could be dried perfectly at 40 to 50 C (only nylon needs at least 60 C). Higher temperatures only shorten the time, but can also damage the filament. Normally I use 40 C for PLA (50 C makes it more brittle over time) and 50 C for other filaments, mainly PETG and TPU. If the humidity in a dryer is below 30% for more than two hours it is good enough to use. Again with the exception of nylon, which needs to be under 20% humidity for at least three hours.
You should check out the Eibos Polyphemus. It's been a great tool and can handle 2 filaments or one large 3kg spool.
I love that!! It is absolutely my favorite dryer! Check out my other filament dryer video :) I featured it there!! :p
can the Polyphemus be left on indefinately, or will it always turn off with a timer?
i have the eibos Easdry, and i love it since i can just turn it on and leave it on basically forever, since i print out of it.
I have a sunlu, that i can set to 99 hours, but cant keep it on forever. i stopped using it over the eibos (the eibos also can get significantly hotter, but the always on was 99% of the selling point for me.)
@@heavyhemi2828 it has an infinite mode. I would not recommend leaving the turn motor on though
I hated the Eibos Polyphemus and ended up throwing away two of them last night that I bought brand new. When printing, one of the rollers doesn't turn while your printing from the Polyphemus because it's attached to a motor designed to rotate the spool while drying. The problem is the non-rotating roller causes drag on cardboard spools which creates unnecessary tension on the filament being pulled by the extruder. Furthermore it's difficult to feed the filament through the two holes in the top without pulling excess filament off the spool which then needs to be manually rewound on the spool so it doesn't get tangled. I really don't understand the positive reviews unless it's just used for drying and not for printing. Terrible design IMHO.
@@MOVIEKICKS - Well, the purpose of a filament dryer is primarily to dry filament lol. And for that task, the Eibos Polyphemus excels. I've been using the Polyphemus for over 6 months now and it's worked great. The humidity storage monitor mode that runs the heater and fan at low levels to maintain a constant dry environment is perfect for longer term storage - no other dryer has a feature like that.
Have u tried esun ebox lite? thoughts about it? thanks
Wish I could actually buy the Polydryer... its been sold out since i've known about it.
the 2-spool Space Pi is only $89.99 on Amazon, why do people even shop Ali Express?
Cause sometimes you can get stuff cheaper
AliExpress is often cheaper than Amazon or locally, especially if there is a sale or you have coupons, but you do need to shop around and compare prices, as some sellers will put a ridiculous price. Also it is available worldwide, in many places Amazon isn't
Just ordered the s4 for €90 on temu.
@@AA-xm7rt Wtf? I'm checking that right now
@@AA-xm7rt Unfortunately, the best I can get here is 150-ish usd
I’ve been wanting to get a poly dryer but man they’ve been out of stock from the moment I found out about it. Still out of stock 😑
I got the S4 for 102$ out the door on Amazon, have never used it, but for that price I figure some day I will.
Gotta get them deals :)
I really wish the Polymaker wasn't so butt ugly, it is one sweet setup. I had JUST bought my Space Pi the day they announced it (cries) lol, I really love the modular design of the Polydryer i just hate how ugly it is. I hope to see printable boxes for the polydryer
Polydryer is sold out and not available from other vendors in Canada…
has been for several weeks, sadly..... :/
I know! I wish it wasnt because it is my favorite, but I couldnt delay the video any longer! Wait for it!!!! :D
Should be back by mid/end of June
It stays 10 to 20% humidity here. I have no frame of reference for people drying filament. Does filament melt or something in humid places?
The filament will absorb moisture from the air and once it absorbs moisture it will have reduced print quality, both visually and structurally.
@@ThePrintHouse So it's like bread, how you have to keep it in a breadbox or it gets too hard to cut after a couple days.
The water will turn to gas in the hotend and PSSSSSHHHHHHH (steam bubbles all through your print.) *causing stringing and poopies, and globbies, etc
Living in tropical climate is hard for a maker. ROFLMAO
I’m brand new to 3 d printing and before I’m even turning on the printer I’m getting a dryer for the filament. I live in coastal Alabama in TRULY HUMID CONDITIONS. Often at 80-95 percent humidity. With or without rain.
The sweat is real. The filament will definitely be affected and I’m grateful to have the input of these videos to show the features of dryers available.
@@michelleagnew8780 Some filaments are affected more than others. PLA and ASA are examples of filaments that tend to absorb less water while filaments like Nylon, PETG and TPU soak up water like a sponge. With PLA, you're probably OK just keeping your filament in a drybag or vacuum bag with some desiccant. You definitely want a dryer for the more hygroscopic ones.
Buy a squid cord if you have bricks....they are short cords made for that reason.
It isn't rocket science you would think they would have some good products on the market! They should be dirt cheap!
Unless you're drying while printing it's pointless.
The creality has the same two fan design
Why is anybody looking at buying dry boxes to begin with? The main reason most of us were able to justify the cost of getting into 3D printing was so we could make stuff ourselves and not have to purchase it. There are hundreds of different DIY dry box plans and videos out there. Ranging from simple silica bead based units to heated boxes using reptile enclosure heaters, with and without hygrometers. Most are simply a plastic cereal storage container, a handful of skateboard bearings, some 3D printed parts, some silica desiccant beads, and maybe a hygrometer or a heater. So, unless you truly believe you haven't given enough of your money to a 3D printer company yet, make your own. Save some money and use your printer for the reason you told yourself you were buying it.
god i hate the sunlu and dryers with interfaces on their sides,
Polydryers are out of stock :(
@@simblorr I wish they would have allowed preorders. So many people want it.
This video is a marketing info-mercial masked as a "review".
@@The_Privateer this isn't even a review. It's an overview of multiple dryers
Your Creality review is extremely petty. Creality seems to be the Nickelback of 3D printing, people hating for no good reason.
yup stopped watching after the 2nd paid advertising shoved in my face, wtf. I pay for zero ads, It's and insult to my hard earned money to have ads shoved in my face by greedy content creators who think it's okay to bypass youtubes ad system when people pay for no ads....
Shilling for that Polydryer. There is nothing innovative about it and it is grossly overpriced. I have seen a few performance complaints about it as well. This "comparison" video has no real specs to show.
This video is trash. Polydryer has many problems and none are mentioned here.
that thing is over priced and very low star rating. other words junk.