Guys, tell me what you think about this video: filament dryers with bowden tubes taught me quite a few things in the last 2 months... and it all came together in this review. Did you enjoy it? 🤔
I have an idea for 'reliable drilling'. I would design a drill jig to print out of PLA, that would pilot into the existing hole and have a fairly long 'guide' hole tangent to the lid. With careful use, you can sneak up on drilling the hole without tearing into the sides of the jig. Make the hole very tight to the drill size to help guide and prevent cutting. Then you could share that file and the TPU new plug. I'm shopping for a decent one spool dryer and this review and your mod are pushing me towards the S2. Keep up the great work!
Loved the video. Very well made and edited and kept me interested throughout the entire thing. Not too slow, not too fast, just right. And THAT's very important! About drying, I never have dried my filament and barely store them in a box with desiccant. Could this be causing my random problems? I live in central Florida. Thank you again! Great video, just subscribed.
Great video. I’m going to subscribe. 👍🏼 I really enjoyed that you pointed out the flaw with the S2 and modded it with the adapter. I’d appreciate if you shared the model for that.
I have the S2. The main change I would make would be the colour of the lid. It's a smoky grey colour that is difficult to see through, but I think the clear plastic of the S1 is better because you can check what's left on the reel with just a quick glance.
@@GeekDetour I was just going to leave a comment about the dark color. I have an S2 but I'm now on the hunt for a dryer with a clear lid. Maybe they can do this for the S4, I'd buy it for sure if so.
Oh, there is no Orange color… Some photos of the product can cause lots of confusion: some images suggest an “âmbar” cover and some are so reflective that you could think it is just clear transparent… The product is a transparent gray, hard even to see which spool is inside.
Great video! Some suggestions: 1. I like the idea of automation (setting it to begin heating 6 hours before I get to my lab, so filament is ready-to-go). 2. I second your Large diameter Bowden Tube suggestion, especially if this is feeding 2 printers, it may have longer to travel. 3. Location of the power-plug -- The S1 allowed units to be stacked flush side-by-side (power was in back). The S2 you can't stack back-to-back, as the power cable sticks out in the way (would have been better to put it between the feet, or in the lower quadrant of the curved portion, so power feeds do not prevent units from stacking flush with each other (or stacking snug with printer enclosures). Hope the S4 power cable is underneath the feet, and not sticking out on the sides.
Hi Thomas! Yeah, the side-plug can be an issue, wow, I didn’t think of that! The S1 has the connector at its back (if you put it side-by-side with a printer) as you envisioned. The S1 makes a lot of sense as a companion for printers on a shelf - the panel is “in the front”, at the bottom of the unit. The S2 is way more beautiful, but it makes sense only when you have the unit accessible from the lateral. Oh, it seems that the Bowden tube coming with the S4 has a bigger internal diameter - at least somebody commented it here somewhere - and I am happy that they did the change!
@@GeekDetour Looking forward to getting the production-model! (I missed the kickstarter when it appeared, and was traveling during the brief Christmas production - they only have the Australian model in stock currently, and I'm not sure if the cord is swappable (standard IEC cord), or would require surgery to replace it with a US cord).
I bought their S2 Plus filament dryer. It arrived, I threw some in (Green Bambu PLA), it managed to melt/fuse together after 2.5 hours. I had the set value at 50C. I chalked that up to me being new and figured I just needed to lower the temperature. I moved the temperature to 45C and placed some other PLA I had (Black Bambu PLA) and checked it after 30 minutes. At that point, it had not completely fused, but is "tacking" to itself to the point where it kept jamming as it tried to unspool. I pulled the filament out and turned the device off so it could cool off. An hour later, I checked it and it was still VERY hot. Further testing confirmed that it's not actually turning off, and I also discovered that no matter what I set the temperature at, it's staying as hot as it can, around 70C. When I plug up the unit and leave it without turning it on, it stays cool to the touch. If I turn it on and then back off immediately, it will continue to heat up. The on/off seems to only be controlling the fan and the screen, but is not disengaging the heater element. So, given that, I contacted support. I expressed my concern that it was a fire hazard and offered to send it back to them (instead of Amazon), because you'd think they'd want to inspect it. I know they have plenty of good reviews and I've read a lot of personal accounts praising the unit. They got back in touch with me and asked me to take video of it contributing to hear up after being turned off. I also demonstrated how it ignored the set value and would keep heating up indefinitely. I did this, answered some other questions, and then they asked me to try with another spool of filament and record my results. Seemed strange, but I've got an engineering and IT background, so I'm game for some troubleshooting. I asked again for clarification just to make absolutely sure that this is what they wanted me to do, and they confirmed...So I grabbed a fire extinguisher (just in case), and did so. This time, the spool melted. I was shocked. I sent the video, unplugged the unit, opened the window, and vacated my office for the night. They told me that the spool wasn't supposed to go in the dryer.... which is of course BS. Then they asked for me to take a temperature reading of it when it is on, to make sure that the temperature states is accurate... Which seems a bit pointless at this point, but I oblige. Sunlu support then asked for a copy of my invoice (which was in the original email, but I went ahead and sent it again). Their response is to send it back to Amazon... Which I could have done in the first place. They don't plan on replacing my filament (one of which, THEY ASKED ME TO DESTROY TO PROVE TO THEM THAT THE UNIT WAS FAULTY). The customer service rep also refused to escalate my case.
My goodness… That’s a horror story 😬 I know a lot of people that have Sunlu filament dryers / I never hear of anything like what you experienced - but I believe you. Products can malfunction. What saddens me is the treatment they gave you… I am sorry.
@@GeekDetour I am not surprised at this response by Sunlu. Their "customer service" is atrocious! See my post about them not sending S4 units to those of us who paid for them.
Really cool that you got a preproduction model AND that they value your opinion. Solid for the business, and I instantly like you more given that they trust you with their product. I'm excited to see what more I can learn from you!
Thank you! I was really impressed and happy that, on the same week I published my video, Sunlu announced that they would make the Mode 2 with an adjustable threshold 🤗 Elegoo is also very interested in the suggestions and feedback from RUclipsrs - on two occasions they adjusted their products on things that I sent them on emails. I am pretty sure they listen to many influencers and that’s very positive!
Thank you! So good to have you here, Dr. Igor 🤗 Absolutely! And we need to promote more the 4.0mm OD 2.5mm ID Bowden tube, as the default to feeding tubes. Of course, between extruders and nozzles that’s a different story, it needs to be tight. 👍
I cancelled my Kickstarter pledge for the S4. For those who print a lot of PETG, this may be a good option. But its not hot enough to efficiently dry Nylon. It takes multiple days to do so at 70C, especially if you live in a humid environment. I really wish a company would bite the bullet and develop a product that can safely heat up to 90C.
Interesting - I printed with nylon only a couple of times and I had to keep it on my Food Dehydrator to finish the print well… Sure, Spain has a quite dry air (most of the time), so I cannot judge if you are exaggerating or not 🤣
@@catnipaddict126yeah, it takes about 12 hours at 70 degrees Celsius, not the multiple days he claims. And that's for a completely soaked roll, if it's only mildly moist it takes less time
@@AniviaSSo you would recommend me to buy it? I print mostly with pla but I want to experiment with different filements and have a dryer for those rolls I might use. Is this one good for all filements or should I buy a different one? :)
I wound up making my own filament dryers and storage from old computer parts I had laying around and home depot buckets. Works great albeit not aesthetically pleasing. The main difference is I do not like using silica gel. I find it works but it can be slow to absorb and a pain to recharge. I prefer to use calcium chloride and find I get much better results from it. I wish these dryers would be designed in such a way that we would have more than one choice in desiccant.
Coming late to the party but I’d definitely love that tangent mod for the s2! And thanks for the thorough review. I have the s2 but was considering the s4 but now I don’t think the s4 is really necessary for me. Plus the s2 is nearly silent and I love that.
I have the S1, and found that the rollers on the bottom did not work well with some cardboard spools, especially those that were roughly handled in shipping and suffered from dented spools. The solution there was a conversion that was on thingiverse that involves a printed frame and uses skate bearings to make the spool turn using the inner diameter instead. It has been freely rotating since the upgrade and I wish they would give you the option of either using the bottom roller way, or a center axle way. I have a bowden coming out of the lid of the S1 in the standard location going directly in to my ikea lack enclosure and then in to my S1 pro, smooth as silk.
@MihaiDesigns I almost printed one of your filament boxes - they looked SO COOL, but it was a lot of filament for me back when I saw it… Your designs are VERY Pro.
At this price point, the s4 make so much sense! I don't color swap but I have 3 printer currently and planing to buy another one. Keeping the S4 under the table with a Bowden tube going into each printer is going to make my life easier.
I didn't have a 3D printer until last Saturday so I missed out on the kickstarter. I ordered the S2 on Amazon since my TPU is WET. I'll be ordering this when it's available to non-kickstarters!
I use food dehydrator. Makes massive difference. I have an sunlu white dryer hiding somewhere, that i meant to mod... i just don't like that you have to faff around with it for a timer etc. I wish I could hook it to my klipper setuo. Just waiting for my sunlu s4 to arrive. Hoping it was worth the money.
Thank You Sir for the review. I’m in market for a filament dryer as my basement is 50% is lowest I can get it even with dehumidifier running 24/7/52. The Sunlu S4 kickstarter is $ 10:40 89.99. Boy I wish I had the room for it. That ends in 4 days from now
So it makes the moisture go from the filament into the air inside the dryer. And then it's trapped there, practically forcing it back into the filament, because the filament is now constantly surrounded by very moist air. The desiccant might help a bit, but that also stays warm, which also prevents it from absorbing moisture.
I think what you says might apply for the S2 - the %RH drops way slower… also, it is just 50W. But on the S4 it definitely doesn’t apply: it drops from 50% to 15% RH in less than 15 minutes, I was paying attention to that yesterday…
@@GeekDetour The relative humidity drops just because the temperature increases. The amount of actual moisture increases. Where do you think the moisture goes? It's not as if it magically vanishes or goes through the walls. No, warm air can hold more moisture. By increasing the air temperature you make it possible to increase the *actual* (as opposed to relative) humidity in the air.
The box is not as water-tight as you think. Vapor can definitely escape. Maybe I need to make a shorter video: when I open the LID, the %RH start increasing immediately. On your theory, it would help to open from time to time, but actually, every time I open, it gets more “humid” inside. Closing, it starts to drop again.
I want to thank you for your observations - I was now investigating something about the S2 and maybe it could actually dry quite faster… I need to test more. Anyway, THANKS!
@@GeekDetour The reason why RH increases when you open the lid is because the temperature drops. Once you heat up the cooler, less moist air to the same temperature you'll end up with a lower RH. A real dehydrator (e.g. for dehydrating food) has huge holes for hot, moist air to escape, while it sucks in cool, dry air (although it might have higher RH) which it will heat up (thereby lowering its RH) and blow across whatever needs dehydrating. If you just keep blowing the same air around then it will just get saturated with moisture until there's an equilibrium of dehydration and hydration. Small holes are useless for getting rid of all the moisture in the hot air. And you can try it. Put a damp piece of tissue paper (or whatever) in it, run it until it's dry(ish), note the temperature and RH, then let out all the hot air and close the lid again, and run it until you get to the same temperature as it was before opening the lid. The RH will be lower (assuming it's at all reliable, and isn't just a temperature sensor faked to simulate a humidity sensor).
Rapaz, show de bola seu conteudo, muito bem explicado. Comprei uma sunlu s2 essa semana, deixei um PLA secando por 24h, nao consegui menos que 46% no sensor de humidade. Entao nao sei se esse sensor em si e muito confiavel.. comprei silica gel e vou colocar junto pra testar e ver se cai mais esse numero. Abraco e tudo de bom.
Muito obrigado!! Sim, vai ajudar a manter a umidade mais baixa. Depende também de onde você mora. Experimente vez por outra dar uma abridinha - ou mesmo deixar uma fresta de 1 ou 2mm… se a umidade está muito alta, o ar dentro fica saturado e a umidade acaba não into embora. Quando você abre, a umidade se vai.
I print most of the time from my Bambu Lab AMS. But I think about of picking up a S4, because you can dry 4 spools in less time. With the S2 and 1 spool, this takes time to dry every spool… Last but not least, the price. The S2 costs about 70€ in Germany, the S4 120€. That‘s only a little bit more as the S2, but you can go with 4 instead of 1 spool.
I would prefer the holes on top near the middle, so you can open the lid easier without pulling a lot of filament from the spool. It is also easier to bundle the tubes going to the printer.
Hi! In the middle it is hard to do because you have the heating plate blocking the way. I prefer the back exit (closer to the hinge) exactly for the reason you said: when you open, it doesn’t unroll much filament.
S2 now has a fan. I've looked into this and a filament dryer really should be airtight with some desiccant, that way the heat extracts the moisture and it's absorbed by the desiccant. The S2 doesn't have anywhere for desiccant so once the filament is dry, and the machine turns off, it will slowly begin to absorb again.
Yeah, some people modified their S1 or S2 to get tiny exit holes… so the moist air can get out. I don’t know yet the most effective way. Maybe it is with desiccant bags… The S1 is easier to mod.
Looser tubes are likely to be more problematic with flexible filament where it bending and bunching up can cause failures as well. This will depend on the filament hardness and friction specifics, the speed, the geometry of the tube bends etc of course.
Well, that is absolutely true for Bowden printers, trying to push the filament, far from the nozzle. But when the printer is direct drive - the extruder is on the printhead pulling filament - then the less friction the better.
Great to see you here @McGybeer 🤗 Yeah, if silence is a major concern, the S4 should not be your choice… But, really, side-by-side with the M5C, it doesn’t really matter, the fast-printing world is very noisy 😬 BUT, the drying performance is amazing: it reaches 15% RH very fast, about 30 minutes here. And yes, 50% is really high… it takes the whole day to reach this mark and I would prefer if it stayed in a more desirable range.
Oh, really?! That’s quite nice! Thanks for telling me this! I hope I had given good advice 🤔 Imagine if for any reason a tighter Bowden would be better 😆
Mt food dehydrator broke after nearly a decade of drying filament and a few years before that drying food. I considered the S2 but because it does not have a fan to exit the moist air I bought the Eibos Easdry which does.
I got my S4 hours ago "today" (technically it is next day) and it's not that loud, at least in my space. I have my PC here, and it is closer and probably louder, and I can hear the S4 about 8ft away, maybe slightly louder than the PC next to me. probably around...50dB? (measuring with a free "Sound Meter" app on my phone, it reads about 54dB - standing right next to it, holding the phone up to my ear, so approximately 14 inches over the dryer) This one is not a pre-production model, but one I actually funded from KickStarter.
I would love to have a dryer for my 3KG spools! I have a lot of wet 3kg spools that need drying and I WOULD buy sunlus filament dryers if they had that option but since I cant even fit them in, there is no point in buying it :( edit: cross my comment, I watched further into the vid, thank you so much sunlu! I will definitely consider buying this 😄
Nice looking dryer, but I wish companies that make them would stop directing the heat directly at the filament. If you're not printing but drying the filament the heat will be directed at one spot on the filament. This would inturn fuse the filament together, I've suffered from this with two different dryers the S1 & the Eibos Series X. The Eibos was the worse one for doing this as it was fusing the middle of the filament due to the heating element & fan in the center of the spool.
My goodness! Where you live is a really hot place? I’ve been drying my spools with the S2 and the S4 - I never had a melting (not by far! I always looked to see if something like that could happen).
@@GeekDetour lol actually like in a cold place.. UK. But with me using PETG i have to dry the filament most of the time, the last spool I dried for 24 hours before printing & it was only when I was getting to the middle of the filament (just over 500g used) did the filament snap. I took the spool out and spotted that the middle of the spool had warped. On inspection I found the whole filament next to the fan out take had completely melted together. This was while the dryer was as set to PETG on the Eibos. So I lowered the temp to the PLA setting but just slightly higher and it still fused but not as much as before. I have just recently bought a 2nd one (Eibos) and found that the sticker for the temp dial is totally different between each box. They must have noticed the error but didn’t tell anyone, the PETG & TPU are swapped around.
Great video and very well presented. The links are very much appreciated. However, the STL for that filament tangencial side exit adaptor would be very nice indeed to have as I can see the point but I doubt I would be able to come up with that model myself.
I only have one printer but plan on printing with more exotic materials. Just backed the S4. 99€ for four spools instead of 69 (nice) € for just one spool capacity seems like a really good deal to me.
I agree - and not only that: the S4 really dries much faster. But most people beginning printing might prefer spending money upgrading the printer or buying filament… money is always something to be considered.
Thanks Fernando!!! Oh, it was a pitty that the AnkerMake M5C arrived here on the VERY day you guys went back home… Very fun printer! And considerably faster than everything I had so far.
Yes the ability to set the humidity ourselves would make it perfect. And please do you have a link for that S2 filament feed piece? Its a must have. Im buying my S2 today and that is exactly what i planned on doing
I agree: for the new S1 and S2 versions, a small Noctua fan would make them dead silent! Not sure about the S4… there is a high flow fan going on there.
I don't know if it's still possible to make a suggestion, but they could allow dividing the chambers to control filaments 2 by 2, to treat different filaments.
Well… that won’t happen. There is only one heater. But in truth, for PETG and PLA, you can dry them together without much worry about so specific settings.
Hi, great information!! I look forward to seeing more reviews from you. I ended up buying the S2 since i only have one printer and like the dryer being silent. I'd like to do the same mod as your S2. Maybe I missed it, but did you post a link anywhere??
Oops... Nope! I started making a few modifications to it and didn't post it yet. I will make a video soon. (Geez... soon in my channel might be a couple of months....)
Since this is now 6 months old, I wonder if Sunlu made the S4 more quiet. Are you aware of any changes they made since receiving your pre-production S4?
I don’t think they had to change anything - it is just as loud as the food dehydrator. It’s the fans inside. Of course I made a joke when I put earmuffs (and I mixed the sound of an actual airplane turbine from an Airport). I wouldn’t have it on the same room you sleep, but it’s like a fan heater you would use on a living room.
@@GeekDetour thanks for the reply. I opted to pre-order the Eibos Polyphemus since it is smaller and will better suite my needs. Looks like Canada gets deliveries in May, so I have to be patient 😎. Thanks again.
I suggest they replace the RH/temperature sensors with one of the new HDC3022 sensors from TI. The sensor is like $3.50 max (less in bulk) and is capable of reading from 0-100 %RH with 0.5 %RH typical accuracy. The low-cost conductive RH sensors that get put in every cheap device are really only good for comparative measurements IMO, they are all over the place WRT accuracy and calibration/drift.
For the S4 the fans are presumably running from 24V or 12V, so it should be possible to swap in variable speed (PWM control) fans, that can run quietly at lower speeds to circulate the air when the box is not actively heating. [Edited to add:] Another thing, how well does this work with Jayo (a Sunlu brand) spools of 650g and 1.1kg?
Excellent suggestion: when it reaches the desired temperature, it could operate more silently if using PWM control of the fans! Oh, about the Jayo - I didn’t know this brand is from Sunlu. I’ll need to buy a spool to test. I never had a roll on recycled material spool.
@@GeekDetour the Jayo 1.1kg spools (on Amazon UK) look good value, and trusting Sunlu already I think I will be ordering some soon. (I already have an assortment of their 650g spools, awaiting my Prusa Mk4 kit delivery.) It would nice to clarify if four of their 1.1kg spools fit in the S4. Thanks!
Geez, I am super overdue to post a second video showing step by step my recommendation on how to make the hole and install the piece… let’s see if I can make it next week 🫣
E aí! I used to 3d print back when it was extremely finicky, and now I'm back and loving it. I haven't purchased a dryer yet. Would you recommend the S4 for single printer use but many multi color prints? It's obvious that the S4 is one of the best, but just trying to find a sweet spot so I don't buy the most expensive versions of everything if it's not necessary. Obrigado antecipado!!
Manoel, eu ADORO minha S4. É a que mais uso - não está ligada em nenhuma impressora. É mesmo pra secar meus filamentos mais chatos: Nylon, TPU, filamento com madeira, qualquer coisa com fibra de carbono. Uso as pequenas (S1 e S2) com as impressoras que imprimem nylon, porque Nylon fica ruim em questão de horas, se aberto.
Great video. I am interested in performing the same modification you did to make a tangent exit hole for a bowden tube in your dryer. can you share the STL file for your mod? Thanks.
I swear that when I made this video, none of these spools were listed with this name (which is absolutely correct and makes total sense). It was all “multicolor”, or “dual color” at best. It’s nice to have a more precise name to differentiate them.
hello I just started 3D printing about a month ago and I love your video about the filament dryer. Very informative and helpful. i’m getting a Sunlu Filament Dryer S2 since the S4 is out of stock right now but I see that you’ve made the little adapter with TPU for the exit hole do you happen to have STL file for it I would like to download one for mine. Thank you in advance!
On 4:17 you have the Tube and the Sensor, Does the tube goes inside the sensor or just connects on the In/Out of the Sensor? Great Videos, Just started my 3D Journey! (with Ender V3 KE)
It just touches the ends of the sensor - no way to “plug” the tubes inside the sensor. That’s why I had to print a connector, to hold the tube in place 👍 Oh, nice printer! Welcome to this extremely addictive hobby! 🔥
@@GeekDetour Mind Sharing the Design for the Sensor Connector? I bought a Creality Dryer Box, But I will replace it with SUNLU (link from you...) Thanks!
Why not holes on the front and flip the spools 90 degrees. Makes more sence, then you can loadup 4 spools behind a mmu unit and do multicolorprints. Now it come out of the sides. which need a long way to go to a mmu unit. Might work dunno?
To my taste, all the spools side by side as you said would make more sense to distribute to one or many pribters. But overall I guess it would be harder to distribute the heat equally to all spools, internally. The way Sunlu did was easier: the heater is in the middle of the unit, so, heat goes equally to both sides and each spools receives the same amount of heat.
It would be really nice to link your resources here so we can copy your advancements. It would be really nice to get your files to upgrade our S1 and S2's!
I think your review was great I have just purchased the S2 and see what you were saying about the filament exit from the dryer it is at the wrong angle for my setup also can I get your mod for the S2? Thanks
Adquiri um s2 recentemente, ainda não coloquei pra funcionar pois estou esperando os tubinhos ptfe chegar. Poderia disponibilizar o STL do adaptador que utilizou ? estou com outro aqui mas o seu parece ser mais simples e funcional. Obrigado e parabéns pelo conteúdo.
@@GeekDetour well the time it takes for them to break varies. My first one broke after a few months so I was able to get it replaced. My 2nd one failed long after the warranty was expired so I had to take it up with amazon, and amazon handled it thankfully. Sunlu's customer service is terrible. Like alot of these 3d printer product companies.
Thanks for the video and I don't know if this is a setting you have enabled or what. I watch a ton of youtube and CC is always off. It was on with this video and I turned it off. But then every time an ad gets inserted, after the ad CC is back on. It's very annoying. If it's not something you can control, sorry for the rant, lol.
Yeah, there is a flag that I turn "ON" on every video. There is a huge audience in my channel from many countries that don't speak English as a first language - and the Subtitles help them a lot. I manually make Subtitles in English, Spanish and Portuguese. I am deeply sorry if having it enabled by default is annoying, but that's on purpose.
I'm still very new to 3d printing, so please forgive my ignorance, but why would you need to dry filament? It comes dry when you buy it. Is there some type of filament that has to be stored moist?
Hi there! Most of the times, PLA and PETG come perfect from factory… but for me, like 1 in 10 come printing less than ideal - you hear a “frying” sound from the nozzle and it pops tiny bubbles - search for “wet filament” and you will find videos showing how it looks and sounds. BUT, any filament with Carbon Fibers get bad after you open, Nylon also NEEDS to by drying WHILE you print. I don’t even want to test now, I use my filament in a dryer while printing.
@@GeekDetour Thank you, I appreciate the response! I only just got my first 3D printer a few weeks ago and I've only done 4 prints so far, so I'm definitely very new to all this, but it's been exciting to learn.
Would it be possible to manage and control it through WiFi? If not, it would be nice to have the option to add an ESP32 to extend the possibilities. I use Home Assistant, and there are infinite possibilities for automating filament drying.
I would like to know to what degree a S4 allows in moisture when closed, since this review says at 9:25 "time will pass and humidity will start increasing"
@@GeekDetour I try to print with a roll of filament that’s been in storage almost a year. It won’t stick to the bed. I find if I stick it in the dryer for few hours, or overnight better yet. The filament behaves like brand new. Everyone should have a filament dryer and the S2 is really nice to have/use
Hey mate i know its not the topic of the video directly, but when you put the tube betweem the filament sensor and the extruder on the s1, did you have any issues with tall prints?
Ohhhh… yeah, there’s that sure. As there was nothing holding the tube fixed in aligned position, there is a tendency to fold sideways and even break the filament as it forces laterally going UP… it could be fixed with printed parts, sure. But I rarely print super tall things. Not off-topic at all! Merry Christmas 🎄🎁
OH! Good news: Sunlu just added an update on the Kickstarter page, and the S4 will indeed have the option to chose the threshold between 30 to 50%RH 👍🤗 I am so happy they listened to this one! ❤️
Guys, tell me what you think about this video: filament dryers with bowden tubes taught me quite a few things in the last 2 months... and it all came together in this review. Did you enjoy it? 🤔
Good vid... thanks..
Can I have the STL file for this mod
I have an idea for 'reliable drilling'. I would design a drill jig to print out of PLA, that would pilot into the existing hole and have a fairly long 'guide' hole tangent to the lid. With careful use, you can sneak up on drilling the hole without tearing into the sides of the jig. Make the hole very tight to the drill size to help guide and prevent cutting. Then you could share that file and the TPU new plug. I'm shopping for a decent one spool dryer and this review and your mod are pushing me towards the S2. Keep up the great work!
Loved the video. Very well made and edited and kept me interested throughout the entire thing. Not too slow, not too fast, just right. And THAT's very important! About drying, I never have dried my filament and barely store them in a box with desiccant. Could this be causing my random problems? I live in central Florida. Thank you again! Great video, just subscribed.
Great video. I’m going to subscribe. 👍🏼
I really enjoyed that you pointed out the flaw with the S2 and modded it with the adapter. I’d appreciate if you shared the model for that.
I have the S2. The main change I would make would be the colour of the lid. It's a smoky grey colour that is difficult to see through, but I think the clear plastic of the S1 is better because you can check what's left on the reel with just a quick glance.
This is a very interesting point!
There are different colored lids I've seen. At the very least there is an orange one.
@@GeekDetour I was just going to leave a comment about the dark color. I have an S2 but I'm now on the hunt for a dryer with a clear lid. Maybe they can do this for the S4, I'd buy it for sure if so.
Oh, there is no Orange color… Some photos of the product can cause lots of confusion: some images suggest an “âmbar” cover and some are so reflective that you could think it is just clear transparent… The product is a transparent gray, hard even to see which spool is inside.
“LEDs - you can turn them off if you are a sad person” - makes me chuckle out loud! 🙂
Ha ha ha 😄 But isn’t it true? Who would turn the LEDs off? LEDs are happiness ❤️ Thanks for telling me you laughed, you made me smile 🤣
Great video! Some suggestions: 1. I like the idea of automation (setting it to begin heating 6 hours before I get to my lab, so filament is ready-to-go). 2. I second your Large diameter Bowden Tube suggestion, especially if this is feeding 2 printers, it may have longer to travel. 3. Location of the power-plug -- The S1 allowed units to be stacked flush side-by-side (power was in back). The S2 you can't stack back-to-back, as the power cable sticks out in the way (would have been better to put it between the feet, or in the lower quadrant of the curved portion, so power feeds do not prevent units from stacking flush with each other (or stacking snug with printer enclosures). Hope the S4 power cable is underneath the feet, and not sticking out on the sides.
Hi Thomas! Yeah, the side-plug can be an issue, wow, I didn’t think of that! The S1 has the connector at its back (if you put it side-by-side with a printer) as you envisioned. The S1 makes a lot of sense as a companion for printers on a shelf - the panel is “in the front”, at the bottom of the unit. The S2 is way more beautiful, but it makes sense only when you have the unit accessible from the lateral.
Oh, it seems that the Bowden tube coming with the S4 has a bigger internal diameter - at least somebody commented it here somewhere - and I am happy that they did the change!
@@GeekDetour Looking forward to getting the production-model! (I missed the kickstarter when it appeared, and was traveling during the brief Christmas production - they only have the Australian model in stock currently, and I'm not sure if the cord is swappable (standard IEC cord), or would require surgery to replace it with a US cord).
I bought their S2 Plus filament dryer.
It arrived, I threw some in (Green Bambu PLA), it managed to melt/fuse together after 2.5 hours. I had the set value at 50C.
I chalked that up to me being new and figured I just needed to lower the temperature. I moved the temperature to 45C and placed some other PLA I had (Black Bambu PLA) and checked it after 30 minutes. At that point, it had not completely fused, but is "tacking" to itself to the point where it kept jamming as it tried to unspool.
I pulled the filament out and turned the device off so it could cool off. An hour later, I checked it and it was still VERY hot. Further testing confirmed that it's not actually turning off, and I also discovered that no matter what I set the temperature at, it's staying as hot as it can, around 70C.
When I plug up the unit and leave it without turning it on, it stays cool to the touch. If I turn it on and then back off immediately, it will continue to heat up. The on/off seems to only be controlling the fan and the screen, but is not disengaging the heater element.
So, given that, I contacted support. I expressed my concern that it was a fire hazard and offered to send it back to them (instead of Amazon), because you'd think they'd want to inspect it. I know they have plenty of good reviews and I've read a lot of personal accounts praising the unit.
They got back in touch with me and asked me to take video of it contributing to hear up after being turned off. I also demonstrated how it ignored the set value and would keep heating up indefinitely.
I did this, answered some other questions, and then they asked me to try with another spool of filament and record my results. Seemed strange, but I've got an engineering and IT background, so I'm game for some troubleshooting. I asked again for clarification just to make absolutely sure that this is what they wanted me to do, and they confirmed...So I grabbed a fire extinguisher (just in case), and did so. This time, the spool melted. I was shocked. I sent the video, unplugged the unit, opened the window, and vacated my office for the night. They told me that the spool wasn't supposed to go in the dryer.... which is of course BS. Then they asked for me to take a temperature reading of it when it is on, to make sure that the temperature states is accurate... Which seems a bit pointless at this point, but I oblige.
Sunlu support then asked for a copy of my invoice (which was in the original email, but I went ahead and sent it again). Their response is to send it back to Amazon... Which I could have done in the first place. They don't plan on replacing my filament (one of which, THEY ASKED ME TO DESTROY TO PROVE TO THEM THAT THE UNIT WAS FAULTY). The customer service rep also refused to escalate my case.
My goodness… That’s a horror story 😬 I know a lot of people that have Sunlu filament dryers / I never hear of anything like what you experienced - but I believe you. Products can malfunction. What saddens me is the treatment they gave you… I am sorry.
@@GeekDetour I am not surprised at this response by Sunlu. Their "customer service" is atrocious! See my post about them not sending S4 units to those of us who paid for them.
Really cool that you got a preproduction model AND that they value your opinion. Solid for the business, and I instantly like you more given that they trust you with their product. I'm excited to see what more I can learn from you!
Thank you! I was really impressed and happy that, on the same week I published my video, Sunlu announced that they would make the Mode 2 with an adjustable threshold 🤗 Elegoo is also very interested in the suggestions and feedback from RUclipsrs - on two occasions they adjusted their products on things that I sent them on emails. I am pretty sure they listen to many influencers and that’s very positive!
Nice video, that tangential exit I mention all the time to manufacturers, so important with high friction filaments, like CF Nylons.
Thank you! So good to have you here, Dr. Igor 🤗 Absolutely! And we need to promote more the 4.0mm OD 2.5mm ID Bowden tube, as the default to feeding tubes.
Of course, between extruders and nozzles that’s a different story, it needs to be tight. 👍
I cancelled my Kickstarter pledge for the S4. For those who print a lot of PETG, this may be a good option. But its not hot enough to efficiently dry Nylon. It takes multiple days to do so at 70C, especially if you live in a humid environment. I really wish a company would bite the bullet and develop a product that can safely heat up to 90C.
Interesting - I printed with nylon only a couple of times and I had to keep it on my Food Dehydrator to finish the print well… Sure, Spain has a quite dry air (most of the time), so I cannot judge if you are exaggerating or not 🤣
@DritoVales Do you have a recommendation for a dryer or method that dries nylon properly?
@@Skott62The Sunlu S4 dryer is perfectly fine, any filament dryer that dries at 70C can do it perfectly fine. Ignore the commenter, he’s exaggerating.
@@catnipaddict126yeah, it takes about 12 hours at 70 degrees Celsius, not the multiple days he claims. And that's for a completely soaked roll, if it's only mildly moist it takes less time
@@AniviaSSo you would recommend me to buy it? I print mostly with pla but I want to experiment with different filements and have a dryer for those rolls I might use. Is this one good for all filements or should I buy a different one? :)
Dude I love your personality, engagement extraordinaire. Your material is always awesome too.
Oh, thanks!!! I appreciate such kind words ❤️👍
I wound up making my own filament dryers and storage from old computer parts I had laying around and home depot buckets. Works great albeit not aesthetically pleasing. The main difference is I do not like using silica gel. I find it works but it can be slow to absorb and a pain to recharge. I prefer to use calcium chloride and find I get much better results from it. I wish these dryers would be designed in such a way that we would have more than one choice in desiccant.
Would it be possible to share the modification stl for the S2? Thanks!
Coming late to the party but I’d definitely love that tangent mod for the s2! And thanks for the thorough review. I have the s2 but was considering the s4 but now I don’t think the s4 is really necessary for me. Plus the s2 is nearly silent and I love that.
I have the S1, and found that the rollers on the bottom did not work well with some cardboard spools, especially those that were roughly handled in shipping and suffered from dented spools. The solution there was a conversion that was on thingiverse that involves a printed frame and uses skate bearings to make the spool turn using the inner diameter instead. It has been freely rotating since the upgrade and I wish they would give you the option of either using the bottom roller way, or a center axle way. I have a bowden coming out of the lid of the S1 in the standard location going directly in to my ikea lack enclosure and then in to my S1 pro, smooth as silk.
Cool one! Fun coincidence: I just opened my Sunlu dry box (the round one) a couple hours ago.
@MihaiDesigns I almost printed one of your filament boxes - they looked SO COOL, but it was a lot of filament for me back when I saw it… Your designs are VERY Pro.
At this price point, the s4 make so much sense!
I don't color swap but I have 3 printer currently and planing to buy another one. Keeping the S4 under the table with a Bowden tube going into each printer is going to make my life easier.
Yes! It is a good price point - even the Retail price. On the Kickstarter then, it is quite good!
Any chance of sharing the stl for the sunlu S2 mod you have done ?
+1
+1
I didn't have a 3D printer until last Saturday so I missed out on the kickstarter. I ordered the S2 on Amazon since my TPU is WET. I'll be ordering this when it's available to non-kickstarters!
I use food dehydrator. Makes massive difference. I have an sunlu white dryer hiding somewhere, that i meant to mod... i just don't like that you have to faff around with it for a timer etc. I wish I could hook it to my klipper setuo.
Just waiting for my sunlu s4 to arrive. Hoping it was worth the money.
Thank You Sir for the review. I’m in market for a filament dryer as my basement is 50% is lowest I can get it even with dehumidifier running 24/7/52. The Sunlu S4 kickstarter is $ 10:40 89.99. Boy I wish I had the room for it. That ends in 4 days from now
So it makes the moisture go from the filament into the air inside the dryer. And then it's trapped there, practically forcing it back into the filament, because the filament is now constantly surrounded by very moist air.
The desiccant might help a bit, but that also stays warm, which also prevents it from absorbing moisture.
I think what you says might apply for the S2 - the %RH drops way slower… also, it is just 50W. But on the S4 it definitely doesn’t apply: it drops from 50% to 15% RH in less than 15 minutes, I was paying attention to that yesterday…
@@GeekDetour The relative humidity drops just because the temperature increases. The amount of actual moisture increases. Where do you think the moisture goes? It's not as if it magically vanishes or goes through the walls. No, warm air can hold more moisture. By increasing the air temperature you make it possible to increase the *actual* (as opposed to relative) humidity in the air.
The box is not as water-tight as you think. Vapor can definitely escape. Maybe I need to make a shorter video: when I open the LID, the %RH start increasing immediately. On your theory, it would help to open from time to time, but actually, every time I open, it gets more “humid” inside. Closing, it starts to drop again.
I want to thank you for your observations - I was now investigating something about the S2 and maybe it could actually dry quite faster… I need to test more. Anyway, THANKS!
@@GeekDetour The reason why RH increases when you open the lid is because the temperature drops. Once you heat up the cooler, less moist air to the same temperature you'll end up with a lower RH.
A real dehydrator (e.g. for dehydrating food) has huge holes for hot, moist air to escape, while it sucks in cool, dry air (although it might have higher RH) which it will heat up (thereby lowering its RH) and blow across whatever needs dehydrating.
If you just keep blowing the same air around then it will just get saturated with moisture until there's an equilibrium of dehydration and hydration. Small holes are useless for getting rid of all the moisture in the hot air.
And you can try it. Put a damp piece of tissue paper (or whatever) in it, run it until it's dry(ish), note the temperature and RH, then let out all the hot air and close the lid again, and run it until you get to the same temperature as it was before opening the lid. The RH will be lower (assuming it's at all reliable, and isn't just a temperature sensor faked to simulate a humidity sensor).
Did you ever post a link for the STL for the S2? I'd love to add that mod to my S2!
Rapaz, show de bola seu conteudo, muito bem explicado.
Comprei uma sunlu s2 essa semana, deixei um PLA secando por 24h, nao consegui menos que 46% no sensor de humidade. Entao nao sei se esse sensor em si e muito confiavel.. comprei silica gel e vou colocar junto pra testar e ver se cai mais esse numero.
Abraco e tudo de bom.
Muito obrigado!! Sim, vai ajudar a manter a umidade mais baixa. Depende também de onde você mora. Experimente vez por outra dar uma abridinha - ou mesmo deixar uma fresta de 1 ou 2mm… se a umidade está muito alta, o ar dentro fica saturado e a umidade acaba não into embora. Quando você abre, a umidade se vai.
Could you share your mod (STL) for the S2 pretty please?
Also would love the stl for the S2 mod.. the s2 hole locations are definitely an issue 😢
Me too if possible 👍😎
I print most of the time from my Bambu Lab AMS. But I think about of picking up a S4, because you can dry 4 spools in less time. With the S2 and 1 spool, this takes time to dry every spool…
Last but not least, the price. The S2 costs about 70€ in Germany, the S4 120€. That‘s only a little bit more as the S2, but you can go with 4 instead of 1 spool.
It makes perfect sense! I hope Sunlu puts the S4 for sale soon… Right now they are still delivering the S4 to Kickstarter backers.
I would prefer the holes on top near the middle, so you can open the lid easier without pulling a lot of filament from the spool. It is also easier to bundle the tubes going to the printer.
Hi! In the middle it is hard to do because you have the heating plate blocking the way.
I prefer the back exit (closer to the hinge) exactly for the reason you said: when you open, it doesn’t unroll much filament.
S2 now has a fan. I've looked into this and a filament dryer really should be airtight with some desiccant, that way the heat extracts the moisture and it's absorbed by the desiccant. The S2 doesn't have anywhere for desiccant so once the filament is dry, and the machine turns off, it will slowly begin to absorb again.
Yeah, some people modified their S1 or S2 to get tiny exit holes… so the moist air can get out. I don’t know yet the most effective way. Maybe it is with desiccant bags… The S1 is easier to mod.
@@GeekDetourThere is a vent you can print which just props the door open slightly. Doesn't seem to make much of a difference though.
they need one jsut for 2 rolls
Looser tubes are likely to be more problematic with flexible filament where it bending and bunching up can cause failures as well. This will depend on the filament hardness and friction specifics, the speed, the geometry of the tube bends etc of course.
Well, that is absolutely true for Bowden printers, trying to push the filament, far from the nozzle. But when the printer is direct drive - the extruder is on the printhead pulling filament - then the less friction the better.
Very true, good point.@@GeekDetour
i got the sun lu s2 and i love it. i just wish they could have a built in a scale so i can sort of see how much filament is left
This would actually be an awesome idea.
Great video! I backed the S4 yesterday, and the noise was my only concern. Also the humidity threshold is a good point, 50% seems too much to me
Great to see you here @McGybeer 🤗 Yeah, if silence is a major concern, the S4 should not be your choice… But, really, side-by-side with the M5C, it doesn’t really matter, the fast-printing world is very noisy 😬 BUT, the drying performance is amazing: it reaches 15% RH very fast, about 30 minutes here. And yes, 50% is really high… it takes the whole day to reach this mark and I would prefer if it stayed in a more desirable range.
get them to out in larger lower rpm fans to help lessen that noise
Always learning a lot through your videos. Great observations and helpful suggestion! Super! ❤
I just received my S4 from the kick starter and they applied your advice about looser tubes! They appear to have an internal diameter of around 3 mm.
Oh, really?! That’s quite nice! Thanks for telling me this! I hope I had given good advice 🤔 Imagine if for any reason a tighter Bowden would be better 😆
As always, great video, lots of good information.
Thanks! 😁
Mt food dehydrator broke after nearly a decade of drying filament and a few years before that drying food.
I considered the S2 but because it does not have a fan to exit the moist air I bought the Eibos Easdry which does.
That’s a point and I hope you are having good results with your dryer!!! 🤗
Can I please have the file for the mod you did thanks
Hi, can you please share the part you designed in Fusion 360? Thank you.
Hello great video, are the STL files for the filament guide available somewhere?
Really excellent information. I'm going to purchase 4 of the S2 models. Thanks
Good info. I just bought an S1 Plus on a clearance price. I know it will be lacking but I'll learn what features I'd like when I do spend more money.
Cool! If you were able to mount the S4 vertically on a wall and use a Prusa MMU, I think that would be even cooler!
Absolutely! But depending on how high you have your Prusa, you’ll need stairs to change spools on the S4 🤣
I got my S4 hours ago "today" (technically it is next day) and it's not that loud, at least in my space. I have my PC here, and it is closer and probably louder, and I can hear the S4 about 8ft away, maybe slightly louder than the PC next to me. probably around...50dB? (measuring with a free "Sound Meter" app on my phone, it reads about 54dB - standing right next to it, holding the phone up to my ear, so approximately 14 inches over the dryer)
This one is not a pre-production model, but one I actually funded from KickStarter.
I need to visit a friend who also backed the Kickstarter, I am curious to see if there are any physical differences from my pre-production unit.
I would love to have a dryer for my 3KG spools! I have a lot of wet 3kg spools that need drying and I WOULD buy sunlus filament dryers if they had that option but since I cant even fit them in, there is no point in buying it :(
edit: cross my comment, I watched further into the vid, thank you so much sunlu! I will definitely consider buying this 😄
Hi there! Oh, very nice that you watched to the end - now I am thinking that I should have mentioned the 3Kg spool STL MOD earlier in the video 🤔🤷♂️
@@GeekDetour no worries! I commented in the middle of the video when you asked us to commend any suggestions for sunlu
Mod is a hackjob you lose good rollers
Great video s4 is great but I prefer s2
Nice looking dryer, but I wish companies that make them would stop directing the heat directly at the filament. If you're not printing but drying the filament the heat will be directed at one spot on the filament. This would inturn fuse the filament together, I've suffered from this with two different dryers the S1 & the Eibos Series X. The Eibos was the worse one for doing this as it was fusing the middle of the filament due to the heating element & fan in the center of the spool.
My goodness! Where you live is a really hot place? I’ve been drying my spools with the S2 and the S4 - I never had a melting (not by far! I always looked to see if something like that could happen).
@@GeekDetour lol actually like in a cold place.. UK. But with me using PETG i have to dry the filament most of the time, the last spool I dried for 24 hours before printing & it was only when I was getting to the middle of the filament (just over 500g used) did the filament snap. I took the spool out and spotted that the middle of the spool had warped. On inspection I found the whole filament next to the fan out take had completely melted together. This was while the dryer was as set to PETG on the Eibos. So I lowered the temp to the PLA setting but just slightly higher and it still fused but not as much as before. I have just recently bought a 2nd one (Eibos) and found that the sticker for the temp dial is totally different between each box. They must have noticed the error but didn’t tell anyone, the PETG & TPU are swapped around.
Geez… the adhesive showing the “right temperature” feels like a nightmare to me 🤣
Great video and very well presented. The links are very much appreciated. However, the STL for that filament tangencial side exit adaptor would be very nice indeed to have as I can see the point but I doubt I would be able to come up with that model myself.
I missed the kick starter so waiting for this to go on sale... S4 is what i want
Have an S2 and loved it until the day it stopped working. I'll fix it eventually.
I only have one printer but plan on printing with more exotic materials. Just backed the S4. 99€ for four spools instead of 69 (nice) € for just one spool capacity seems like a really good deal to me.
I agree - and not only that: the S4 really dries much faster. But most people beginning printing might prefer spending money upgrading the printer or buying filament… money is always something to be considered.
brilliant video, highly underrated channel. Adding a sub 🙂
Thanks for the sub! 😄 I just published the video I was working for the last month - hope you like it!
Great video! Fun and veeerrry informative!
Thanks Fernando!!! Oh, it was a pitty that the AnkerMake M5C arrived here on the VERY day you guys went back home… Very fun printer! And considerably faster than everything I had so far.
Yes the ability to set the humidity ourselves would make it perfect.
And please do you have a link for that S2 filament feed piece? Its a must have. Im buying my S2 today and that is exactly what i planned on doing
I am working on a different piece for the S1 and I’ll launch both on a video next week.
Sorry, nur I not fond the next Video video with STL file
I use a cheap air fryer that has dehydrate mode. This interests me, but I'd have to look at swapping the fans for Noctua ones.
I agree: for the new S1 and S2 versions, a small Noctua fan would make them dead silent! Not sure about the S4… there is a high flow fan going on there.
I'm down for checking it out eventually. Might get an S4 for the Ankermake I have :)@@GeekDetour
Great expanation, thanks. I have S2 model and i also need this mod, what you are maked.
I don't know if it's still possible to make a suggestion, but they could allow dividing the chambers to control filaments 2 by 2, to treat different filaments.
Well… that won’t happen. There is only one heater. But in truth, for PETG and PLA, you can dry them together without much worry about so specific settings.
Yes I would like to get the piece for the S2
I just made a drilling guide… will upload everything this week. Sorry for the waiting
@@GeekDetour thank you
@@GeekDetour and your right the angle is all wrong for most printer and not feasible
Hi, great information!! I look forward to seeing more reviews from you.
I ended up buying the S2 since i only have one printer and like the dryer being silent. I'd like to do the same mod as your S2. Maybe I missed it, but did you post a link anywhere??
Oops... Nope! I started making a few modifications to it and didn't post it yet. I will make a video soon. (Geez... soon in my channel might be a couple of months....)
Could you share the STL for that adapter you made for your S2, I'd like test it on mine.
Wouldn't be nice if this was somehow combined with the Bambu AMS unit. e.g. Put all the drying bits into the AMS Unit. The Super SUNLU Bambu AMS.
Definitely, it would be super cool 😎
Since this is now 6 months old, I wonder if Sunlu made the S4 more quiet. Are you aware of any changes they made since receiving your pre-production S4?
I don’t think they had to change anything - it is just as loud as the food dehydrator. It’s the fans inside. Of course I made a joke when I put earmuffs (and I mixed the sound of an actual airplane turbine from an Airport). I wouldn’t have it on the same room you sleep, but it’s like a fan heater you would use on a living room.
@@GeekDetour thanks for the reply. I opted to pre-order the Eibos Polyphemus since it is smaller and will better suite my needs. Looks like Canada gets deliveries in May, so I have to be patient 😎. Thanks again.
I suggest they replace the RH/temperature sensors with one of the new HDC3022 sensors from TI. The sensor is like $3.50 max (less in bulk) and is capable of reading from 0-100 %RH with 0.5 %RH typical accuracy. The low-cost conductive RH sensors that get put in every cheap device are really only good for comparative measurements IMO, they are all over the place WRT accuracy and calibration/drift.
Wait... have you successfully modified yours?
Could you put the S2 hole direction change part on thingiverse?
For the S4 the fans are presumably running from 24V or 12V, so it should be possible to swap in variable speed (PWM control) fans, that can run quietly at lower speeds to circulate the air when the box is not actively heating.
[Edited to add:]
Another thing, how well does this work with Jayo (a Sunlu brand) spools of 650g and 1.1kg?
Excellent suggestion: when it reaches the desired temperature, it could operate more silently if using PWM control of the fans! Oh, about the Jayo - I didn’t know this brand is from Sunlu. I’ll need to buy a spool to test. I never had a roll on recycled material spool.
@@GeekDetour the Jayo 1.1kg spools (on Amazon UK) look good value, and trusting Sunlu already I think I will be ordering some soon. (I already have an assortment of their 650g spools, awaiting my Prusa Mk4 kit delivery.) It would nice to clarify if four of their 1.1kg spools fit in the S4. Thanks!
Thanks for this video!
My pleasure!
I'd be super interested in your S2 mod to get a tangent exit hole. I've had the same complain about mine since day 1
Geez, I am super overdue to post a second video showing step by step my recommendation on how to make the hole and install the piece… let’s see if I can make it next week 🫣
Will be hoping to see it soon :) thanks!@@GeekDetour
Any progress on this S2 modification video?@@GeekDetour
E aí! I used to 3d print back when it was extremely finicky, and now I'm back and loving it. I haven't purchased a dryer yet. Would you recommend the S4 for single printer use but many multi color prints? It's obvious that the S4 is one of the best, but just trying to find a sweet spot so I don't buy the most expensive versions of everything if it's not necessary. Obrigado antecipado!!
Manoel, eu ADORO minha S4. É a que mais uso - não está ligada em nenhuma impressora. É mesmo pra secar meus filamentos mais chatos: Nylon, TPU, filamento com madeira, qualquer coisa com fibra de carbono. Uso as pequenas (S1 e S2) com as impressoras que imprimem nylon, porque Nylon fica ruim em questão de horas, se aberto.
I’m interested in your S2 mod.
Great video. I am interested in performing the same modification you did to make a tangent exit hole for a bowden tube in your dryer.
can you share the STL file for your mod? Thanks.
Hi, i realy like your video but can you tell me where i can find the STL to print the part to modify the dryer? Please tell me.
What you call multicolor filament is usually called co-extrusion filament :) Multicolor is just filament with more than 1 color.
I swear that when I made this video, none of these spools were listed with this name (which is absolutely correct and makes total sense). It was all “multicolor”, or “dual color” at best. It’s nice to have a more precise name to differentiate them.
I’m interested in the mod you did to the S2
Hey, nice mod for S2. Where can I download the file for S2 tangent mod?
hello I just started 3D printing about a month ago and I love your video about the filament dryer. Very informative and helpful. i’m getting a Sunlu Filament Dryer S2 since the S4 is out of stock right now but I see that you’ve made the little adapter with TPU for the exit hole do you happen to have STL file for it I would like to download one for mine. Thank you in advance!
I like this video. I have 2 S2 and can you please tell me where I can download the adaption for the S2?
sooo where is stl for connector ? :D
On 4:17 you have the Tube and the Sensor, Does the tube goes inside the sensor or just connects on the In/Out of the Sensor?
Great Videos, Just started my 3D Journey! (with Ender V3 KE)
It just touches the ends of the sensor - no way to “plug” the tubes inside the sensor. That’s why I had to print a connector, to hold the tube in place 👍 Oh, nice printer! Welcome to this extremely addictive hobby! 🔥
@@GeekDetour Mind Sharing the Design for the Sensor Connector?
I bought a Creality Dryer Box, But I will replace it with SUNLU (link from you...)
Thanks!
Why not holes on the front and flip the spools 90 degrees. Makes more sence, then you can loadup 4 spools behind a mmu unit and do multicolorprints. Now it come out of the sides. which need a long way to go to a mmu unit. Might work dunno?
To my taste, all the spools side by side as you said would make more sense to distribute to one or many pribters. But overall I guess it would be harder to distribute the heat equally to all spools, internally. The way Sunlu did was easier: the heater is in the middle of the unit, so, heat goes equally to both sides and each spools receives the same amount of heat.
It would be really nice to link your resources here so we can copy your advancements. It would be really nice to get your files to upgrade our S1 and S2's!
My S2 holes are tangential to the spool. It seems they listened.
Really? Wow! I would love to see that! ❤️
What a great, informative video!!👏
Thanks so much! ❤️
I think your review was great I have just purchased the S2 and see what you were saying about the filament exit from the dryer it is at the wrong angle for my setup also can I get your mod for the S2? Thanks
Nice video
Thanks!
very helpful video, you dont happen to have the STL for the filament sensor adapter to add the tubing do you?
Adquiri um s2 recentemente, ainda não coloquei pra funcionar pois estou esperando os tubinhos ptfe chegar. Poderia disponibilizar o STL do adaptador que utilizou ? estou com outro aqui mas o seu parece ser mais simples e funcional.
Obrigado e parabéns pelo conteúdo.
Nice and informative video! Where did you find the 2,5mm inner diameter PTFE tube?
I bought it on AliExpress. I bet you can find it on Amazon too… if I find it I’ll put links in the description.
This is the way!
This is the way.
They work well but the power supplies fail. I'm on my 3rd one.
3rd one!? Wow!!! This is so weird... I hope you used warranty and it didn't cost you more.
@@GeekDetour well the time it takes for them to break varies. My first one broke after a few months so I was able to get it replaced. My 2nd one failed long after the warranty was expired so I had to take it up with amazon, and amazon handled it thankfully. Sunlu's customer service is terrible. Like alot of these 3d printer product companies.
Thanks for the video and I don't know if this is a setting you have enabled or what. I watch a ton of youtube and CC is always off. It was on with this video and I turned it off. But then every time an ad gets inserted, after the ad CC is back on. It's very annoying. If it's not something you can control, sorry for the rant, lol.
Yeah, there is a flag that I turn "ON" on every video. There is a huge audience in my channel from many countries that don't speak English as a first language - and the Subtitles help them a lot. I manually make Subtitles in English, Spanish and Portuguese. I am deeply sorry if having it enabled by default is annoying, but that's on purpose.
@@GeekDetour thx for the reply. I'll survive. It's not you, it's all the freaking ads youtube shoves in ever 2.3 seconds!
Great video, nicely explained
Thanks!!
i just bought the S2, are you able to share that mod you did so the filament exits in a tangent path?
I'm still very new to 3d printing, so please forgive my ignorance, but why would you need to dry filament? It comes dry when you buy it. Is there some type of filament that has to be stored moist?
Hi there! Most of the times, PLA and PETG come perfect from factory… but for me, like 1 in 10 come printing less than ideal - you hear a “frying” sound from the nozzle and it pops tiny bubbles - search for “wet filament” and you will find videos showing how it looks and sounds. BUT, any filament with Carbon Fibers get bad after you open, Nylon also NEEDS to by drying WHILE you print. I don’t even want to test now, I use my filament in a dryer while printing.
@@GeekDetour Thank you, I appreciate the response! I only just got my first 3D printer a few weeks ago and I've only done 4 prints so far, so I'm definitely very new to all this, but it's been exciting to learn.
I am happy for you! Be careful and don’t feed the printers after the sunset - when your partner is not looking they multiply 😆
Would it be possible to manage and control it through WiFi? If not, it would be nice to have the option to add an ESP32 to extend the possibilities. I use Home Assistant, and there are infinite possibilities for automating filament drying.
It doesn’t allow any sort of automation and that’s a pity, now thinking of it! Good thinking!
Where did you get the 2.5mm bowden tube, i can only find 2mm so far, thanks!
I searched on AliExpress… but indeed it is harder to find.
@@GeekDetour awesome thanks, will look!
@@GeekDetour ordered some, thnx!
I would like to know to what degree a S4 allows in moisture when closed, since this review says at 9:25 "time will pass and humidity will start increasing"
I bought the S2 on your recommendation
Are you enjoying it? Tell me your experience
@@GeekDetourlove it. It’s a game changer.
@@GeekDetour I try to print with a roll of filament that’s been in storage almost a year. It won’t stick to the bed. I find if I stick it in the dryer for few hours, or overnight better yet. The filament behaves like brand new. Everyone should have a filament dryer and the S2 is really nice to have/use
Hey mate i know its not the topic of the video directly, but when you put the tube betweem the filament sensor and the extruder on the s1, did you have any issues with tall prints?
Ohhhh… yeah, there’s that sure. As there was nothing holding the tube fixed in aligned position, there is a tendency to fold sideways and even break the filament as it forces laterally going UP… it could be fixed with printed parts, sure. But I rarely print super tall things. Not off-topic at all! Merry Christmas 🎄🎁
Can you fit a big spool of fillament inside, like 1kg?
Sure! 1kg spool is the default size - its not big 😁 the S1 and S2 are made for 1 spool of 1kg the S4 accommodate 4 of them.
@@GeekDetour Thank you 🫡
It definitely needs at least the option to turn back on at 30-40RH. 50 is way too high.
OH! Good news: Sunlu just added an update on the Kickstarter page, and the S4 will indeed have the option to chose the threshold between 30 to 50%RH 👍🤗 I am so happy they listened to this one! ❤️
Which printer do you use for TPU? I'm looking for a good one and I saw your attachment being printed very good.
Oh, I printed TPU quite well in many printers: AnkerMake M5C, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Neptune 3 Pro, even my old Ender 3 Pro prints TPU acceptably.
@@GeekDetour Thank you very much! I will look into those ☺
Your voice reminds me from the narrator in “there is no game”
Ha ha, that’s cool! I just watched a few clips of There is no Game on RUclips - very funny stile of gameplay! I might play it, thanks! Cool voice!