Ep.23 | will the spare engine turn over??
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- Опубликовано: 29 окт 2024
- Hi everyone!
Very exciting video today where we see if the spare engine can turn over.
Disclaimer** when this was filmed I didn't know it was a 1500 yet!
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There is a way to weld that cast block so it holds but that isn't it. You can go look into heavy equipment repairs there is a way it isn't with a welder it's a torch and rod filler.
Ok got it, thanks!
Personally wouldn’t even try and save the cracked blocked. Run the spare engine and get it 100%. Scrap the old block
Good idea thanks!
yes scrap it ..or make a bar table with it😄
Yes I agree on the 1500 block I would not waste any more time and money on it...unless like one person suggested make a table out of it. I'm more a purest so take my opinion with a grain of salt. But I would not go with the 1300 either. I would hunt down another 1500 block...search online talk to british car clubs etc to find a block. Maybe even do a go fund me project to help purchase. Obviously you could even get the 1300 running and sell to get a new 1500 up and running. The reason I recommend this is while they both go in Triumphs I find that it is never a direct bolt in replacement and there is always something that needs to be modified etc. Once you go down that rabbit hole your project could stall and then you have a large paper weight in your front yard. Just my .02 . Good luck on whatever direction you go. Wish you the best.
@@weescotildweescotild6875 haha, good idea!
@@projectpacer thank you! thankfully I found out the 1300 spare is actually a '76 1500!
The bendix gear doesn’t need to be greased because it will just shoot every where after a coupl starts
Hi Saige, the reason why the points melted is probably because you are using pretty high voltage (almost 16 volts, it should be 14 max) to a coil that is most probably 6 volts. In your car wiring harness you have a resistor (a.k.a. Ballast) which reduces the battery voltage from 12-14volts to about 6, but as you are connecting your battery which I am assuming is also connected to a charger directly to the coil, you are feeding it almost 3 times the voltage it is designed for.
So if your next attempt to start the engine is after you install it in the car and yoy are using the car wiring everything should be fine. But if you plan to start it the same way again then better find another coil which is 12v just for the test. The 12v coil is also known as 3 ohm coil or a coil for non-balasted system.
Oh wow that’s very interesting to know, thanks for telling me!
FYI - some oil pan plugs use tapered threads, so they may not screw all the way in and some of the threads may still be exposed. Also when looking for metal fragments in oil, the best method is to use a magnet. Some oil pan plugs are magnetic as well, so you can check for wear with each oil change.👍
Got it, thanks!
20-50w oil is recommended .
I noticed that you have the plug wires marked and that is good. Turn the engine over to TDC the mark on the crank shaft. Look at your distributor rotor with the cap off. Where is it pointing? My 75 spitfire 1500 points to 8 o'clock so my #1 wire goes there and remember that the rotor turns counter clock wise. The firing order is 1-3-4-2. If the rotor is not facing the right way you may have the distributor 180 out. I would drop the oil pan and clean out any sludge and clean the oil sump before trying to fire it. Don't want to starve the engine of oil. You put oil in the pan and when you all was turn over the engine with the battery I didn't see any oil traveling to to top end.
That’s very interesting to know thanks!
And oil is oil I just get the cheap stuff because it's coming out in 3k anyway. I also run thinner oil with a bit of Lucas.
Hope you got a replacement oil filter as well since you did an oil change....advisable.
I absolutely will, thanks for letting me know!
Hi Saige. Great video 😊. It looks like you still have the old oil filter on the engine. It would be better if you change the filter before you try and start the engine. It might be worth removing the sump and checking the big end bearings and mains bearings, plus end float before starting the engine. (Ie movement of the crankshaft forwards and backwards.) You would need to drain the new oil but should be ok to reuse if drained into clean container. Love the countryside you showed. Cheers, Steve
I’m going to check out the sump and get a new oil filter so all good :)
Hi Saige. I highly recommend removing the sump pan from that engine and cleaning it out thoroughly. The really old oil in it was thickened and I have do doubt there is still a lot of "gunk" in there. Simply putting in fresh oil will only cause that "gunk" to circulate throughout the engine, possibly causing problems like blocked oil passages. After sitting for years, it's a good bet that the gunk has all settled to the bottom of the sump and would be relatively easily cleaned out. Note: don't put the engine on a stand and invert it... that would risk the gunk getting back up into the pistons, etc.
Regarding the distributor... gaskets under it are used not only to stop leaks, but also to set the end float of the shadt that drives the distributor. The correct thickness must be used... usually but not always multiple gaskets. There is a metgod for determining the correct thickness to use under the distributor. Once that's done, ALSO the distributor must be properly "indexed" with the camshaft and valve timing, so that the spark plug fires at the correct instant.
My next step is to clean out the sump so thanks for mentioning it! I spoke to Elin from Rusty Beauties about properly fitting the distributor so hopefully I can figure it out!
Lol, spanner. You’re truly a Brit. Also, you should check the distributor drive for end play. And also check cam for pitting. The zinc will protect the cam too. Crank seals look like they are leaking. The crank probably needs sleeves and new seals. Also you have to check the crank thrust washers for wear with a gauge.
Got it, thanks!
Progress... but you have your work cut out for you. At least now you have a bit of an idea of the direction you'll be going with this project. Thanks for sharing this. Glad you found another engine.
Yes it’s very exciting! Thanks Tyler!
Saige, I use that exact same oil in my 1979 Spitfire, but I only drive in summer. Spitfires use a thick oil, so be aware.
I strongly recommend you buy new plugs, points, condenser, rotor, and distributor cap. The ones you have are old, and may have been damaged when the engine was put away. These were routine maintenance items back in the day, but were often neglected. IMHO, getting electronic ignition (Pertronix is the favorite Spitfire brand) will be well worth your time. Do while you have the engine off the car, it may be easier.
Spark advance is another issue you need to address. Later Spitfires typically like a 12 degree advance. That's what mine runs on.
Also, Spitfires usually have 120 psi compression. 90 will still run, but you lose efficiency and power.
That’s all very interesting and I’ll keep it in mind thank you for letting me know!
I would change the points for electronic ignition. Much more reliable.
Great work Saige.
Good idea, thanks!
Saige you are doing a great job you sure learned a lot in one year and good luck with your car and I have enjoyed all your videos and you are very special.
Thank you so much!
There is a process for repairing cracked cast iron that doesn't involve heat.
It's called Metal Stitching, where you drill several holes throughout the entire length of the crack and you then insert Metal pieces into those holes, filling the crack and locking it all together. Drilling the ends of the crack will also stop the crack from going further.
Very interesting I’ll look into it thanks!
Re-bonjour Saige & Dad! ;) Exciting video! The sticky valve stem(s) might come back when the engine will be running so be sure all these valve stems & rockers are given a good oil splash before you start the engine..
The oil viscosity is your choice, maybe dictated by winter temp in canada, but in my opinion if you intend to mainly use the car outside winter time, these engines were designed for a thicker 50 visco grade Hot. By using less you will lose some oil pressure which is the 1500 achilles heel as you know..
A couple of things about carb & distributor: Oh! it seems you didn't do the checking of the gasket thickness that go under pedestal before refitting the distributor assy to the block.. I warn you! if this is not properly set up, you risk seizing the distributor gear and damaging the camshaft (ask Elin, this MUST be done before any engine running).🥺🥺
And about the carb: the thick spacer/gasket is a thermal spacer -and from the video it seems to be wrongly oriented on the manifold. the offset cutout should match the carb lower hole- => Oops Sorry! I am plainly wrong on this 🙃🙃: Your spacer is actually correctly fitted!! 😉You could have a bad air leak if this spacer is put upside down. This spacer needs one "paper" gasket each side.
Modern aftermarket condensers are crap (from R.....), 'been warned! Good ones are either secondhand OE or from DistributorDoctor UK.
A final word about the cracked block: sadly it's too far gone now, cracks extended much too far and in my opinion it is beyond economical repair.
Fingers crossed "1500mk2" will come back to life! 😃
Another good Lucas distributor specialist is “British Vacuum Unit”. I believe they are located in New Hampshire.
@@TR4Ajim Right. Another good one is Advanced Distributors run by Jeff Schlemmer in Minnesota ;)
That’s interesting about the oil it’s good to know! I spoke to Elin about the distributor so all good!!
You can cold stitch weld the block
cast iron is very difficult to weld. in this case it cracked bc it cooled too fast. spilled milk now i guess, but with iron you have to heat up the entire surface before you begin to weld. and after finishing the weld job you have to slow the cool down process as much as possible. weld shops can do this, but for the at home person the only way to slow cool down time is by welding blankets. no big deal really.... spitfire engines come up for sale periodically and they are not usually expensive - and you did just that. kudos. stinks as engine machining was done, but hey.. we';re only human.
That’s good to know for the future, thanks!
Really enjoying your journey with your spitfire.
Thank you!
The thing that matters most with a compression test is consistency. So if you’re reading about 90 psi over all 4 cylinders that’s fine (rule of thumb is max 10% variation between cylinders). Especially as the aim is to get the car going again. Unless you have a high end super calibrated compression tester, the absolute value it shows is suspect.
Also you made a comment about lubricating the starter motor gears. Really don’t do that! It’s designed not to need it and oil or grease will end up stopping the bendix (the weird gear that slides back towards the body of the starter when it spins) moving properly.
Looking positive!
I’ll keep that in mind for next time I do a compression test, and whoops at least I know now! Thanks!
You should have checked the manual for the amount of oil in sump.
welding cast iron requires proper processes including controlled cooling the new cracks indicate the weld cooled too quickly it is repairable but how much do you want to spend? ... i was taught to find the end of the crack (dye penetration check or magna flux) drill a small hole at the end(s) of the crack insert a tight fitting iron pin and then drill holes along the crack each hole must touch the last, then put soft iron plugs into the drill holes peen the plugs over - you could weld it but it would need to be heated in an oven or furnace to the proper temp - weld - then put back into the furnace to very slowly cool down (24 hrs or more) if you do want to fix it find a specialist welding shop (if your car is a matching number car record the engine number ( or keep the block)
90 psi compression is ok higher would be better
re sticking valve, valve timing and clearance ask your friend with the tatts about the rule of 9 - in essence if valve 1 is fully open check valve 8 (8+1 = 9) if 3 is fully open check valve 6 (3+6=9) and so on.
condenser - if you have trouble the lucas condensers are not reliable rotor arms aren't much better (i carry spares for both) try Distributor Doctor for better replacements
oil level - over filing will result in noise - crank and rods hitting the oil will make a slapping noise (irritating rather than disastrous) your hayes (or equivalent) manual should tell you how much you need (the manual is your friend talk nicely to it and it will help you out heaps)
Ignition timing should not be 0 - 0 is piston TDC (top dead centre) ignition timing should be 5 or 7 BTDC (before top dead centre) (check hayes) ignition at TDC will run but not optimal and may result in it running warm or hot
dcm
I think for now I’m going to get the car running with the spare engine and keep the old block to the side! Good to know about the valves, oil fill, and condenser, I’ll look into those thanks!
I have a 1500 engine and transmission if you want it? Located in BC, Canada. Free of charge. It was running when I took the car off the road 15 years ago. Lots of extra parts as well. I was going to just scrap everything. So it is yours if you want it.
Wow what a great offer, where in BC are you located?
Squamish BC. 45 minutes north of Vancouver@@saigesgarage
@@jaimegrant784 Hi Jaime! Would you be able to send me an email to saigeaurora1@gmail.com of any photos you have of it and any information?
Hi Saige. Wondering if the transmission you’re taking off has overdrive. If so, I may be interested in it!
I don’t believe so sorry, I’m actually hoping for one myself!
@@saigesgarage Bonjour Saige ;) Actually you can fairly easily convert one of the transmissions you have to an overdrive one. All you have to do is strip it down and rebuild it around the specific "overdrive type mainshaft".
This mainshaft can be found secondhand at British Auto Salvage LLC in Macedon NY.
You can use an overdrive mainshaft from a Spitfire MK4 or a GT6. both are similar and will fit.
You will need a couple of parts more to enable the conversion: all are small: the mainshaft pump cam & key + snap ring, an inhibitor switch & bracket so that overdrive only comes in when 3rd or 4th gears are selected (but it seems you already have this at the end of your gearlever aluminium extension..!)
Then you will need a transmission to overdrive adaptor plate for a "D type" overdrive and of course an overdrive unit (D type from a spitfire MK4 or a GT6).
You need a longer speedo cable and an angle drive to connect it at right angle to the overdrive speedo gear output.
A specific flatter chassis mounting plate is required but it is quite cheap or can be fabricated cheaply.
The last parts needed are an electric relay and the overdrive switch (can be of the gearlever type or the cheaper/easier to fit commodo lever type at the wheel).
Connect overdrive to the driveshaft/propshaft from a post 76 non overdrive spitfire.
Now enjoy 5th gear and restful cruising!😜
@@weescotildweescotild6875 wow this is really cool to know and definitely something to keep in mind for the future!
90 pounds is pretty low: new rings and valve job.
This engine runs clockwise.
I told you. Belzona
If you are changing oil you need to change the oil filter. Also, I don’t think that’s the correct weight and the rockers need the zinc additive.
Modern oils are too slippery so if you have low oil pressure, you know your viscosity and temp coefficient is probably too low.
I’m definitely going to get a new oil filter and that’s very interesting to learn about the oil viscosity, thanks!