Ep.24 | prepping the spare engine to go in the car!
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Finger's crossed I get the engine in the car soon!
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Hi Saige,
Engine oil starts out as you saw it pouring from the bottle, but quickly darkens from the heat of the engine. That's normal.
What is not normal is "chunkiness", as you call it. Due to evaporation old oil sitting for years in the sump thickens and congeals into that gunk you drained out. It's good you are removing the sump pan to clean it thoroughly before running the "new" engine, because the gunk is no doubt all settled to the bottom and you don't want the oil pump to circulate it back up through the engine. After you drop the sump pan, clean it out, inspect the oil pump and "bottom end" of the engine. Before reinstalling the sump pan, you will need to thoroughly clean both the mating surface where the gasket goes. Also, for a good seal check that the sump pan rim is perfectly flat. Sometimes they get bent by the fasteners or removal process. Straighten any bends you find with careful taps with a hammer. Also check that none of the residual materials from the old gasket have gotten up inside the engine.
The easiest way to clean an engine in a home workshop is to leave spark plugs, manifolds, distributor, fuel pump installed. Cover or plug up any and all other openings to keep water out of the engine. Cover or remove alternator, cover carb if still installed or plug the manifold if not. And put a plastic bag over the distributor. Then roll it all outside, spray some engine cleaner on it, let it soak a while, then use a pressure sprayer (taking care around any openings to keep water out of the engine). Repeat if needed. Thick grease might reiquire a scraper. Brake cleaner spray can be used to remove stubborn spots.
If you plan to paint the engine, once it's thoroughly degreased use power tools with wire brushes of various sizes and types to knock off any old paint or rust. Degrease and prep once more, mask off, then prime with high temp engine primer. Once that is dry, apply one or two coats the color of your choice with a high temp engine paint.
Don't paint the carb, alternator, exhaust manifolds. Aluminum intake manifold can be painted with silver high temp paint if it didn't clean up well. There is special, even higher temp paint that can be used on exhaust manifolds (it will give off smoke initially, first time it heats up... don't panic).
The "plate" you removed from the front of the engine was the water pump. Check to aee that it spins freely and there is no play in the shaft, in hope it won't leak. Clean both mating surfaces on the pump and on the engine where the gasket goes. Important not to scratch or gouge the surfaces with any tools being used to remove the old gasket (same with the mating surface of the oil sump and all other gasketed joints ).
Some gaskets need some sort of sealer. There are several types. Elin uses aviation gasket sealer. A coat of this gets painted onto the engine surface, the gasket is put in place, then the othet side of the gasket is coated. In other words, this add'l sealing is applied to both sides of the gasket. Use it on the sump and the water pump. DO NOT use any sealer on the distributor pedestal gasket(s), the intake and exhaust manifold gasket, the carb to manifold juncture or the valve cover. It would burn on the manifold gasket. The others need to be removable or don't require as thorough a seal. I don't know if one is available for Spitfire 1500, but for some other Triumphs thay make silicone gaskets for the valve cover, which do a much better job than the original cork gaskets. (Both types can be adhered with sealer on one side, to "glue" the gasket in place during valve cover removal. When I do thos, I adhere it to the cover, not the top of the engine. That way the gasket comes off with the cover and won't be accidentally damaged while doing valve adjustments.)
I agree with another response, some rust in the cooling system passages is to be expected. When you get the engine back in the car, 1st time only fill that system with a bottle of cooling system flush and cleaner, then topped up with plain water. Run that way until fully warmed up (be sure to turn on the heater, so it gets flushed too), then drain. You will probably see a lot of rust come out. Sometimes a second bottle of the cleener and repeat of the process is needed. Finally use a hose and flush fresh water through the entire system until the water comes out perfectly clear (and all the cleaner is removed). Drain and refill with anti-freeze solution. That is sold ready to use at 50/50 concentration (50% water), which is generally adequate. Personally I buy undiluted antifreeze and demineralized water to make my own 70/30 mix (30% water). This not only protects against lower temps (not really a problem here in Calif.), it also significantly raises the boiling point to protect against overheating issues. I think antifreeze also provides some lubrication to the water pump, so maybe more is better for that, too (can't hurt).
Sorry to see you broke one of the studs. Those can be tricky to remove (might require a welder). Heat might have helped... or not. It's hard to say. Sometimes they break all on their own (especially those around the exhaust manifold)!
There are numerous videos here on YT about removing broken studs. You might watch some.
What he said!
Wow, thanks so much for all of this info! I’ll keep it all in mind moving forward :)
Bravo ! Congratulations for this job
Thank you!
don't worry about the rusty water passages but you can always use a radiator flushing liquid after putting it all back together. never a bad idea.
Great!
check the clutch disc thickness. And pilot too for wear, just six minutes or so.
Versus redoing it later. Two & 1/2 hours.
Good idea!
Bonjour Saige & Dad ..& Nephew! ;) Great video!
Good idea you decided to drop the sump and clean that oil goo.
Be sure to clean the oil pump gauze thoroughly (a toothbrush wetted with gas can be useful for this).
The mesh must be totally clear. Ensure to dry it out before refitting the sump.
At this point perhaps it would be better/safer to use brand new oil again! or at least try to filter the drained oil through a fine mesh steel strainer.
A little warning about sump screws: both front centre & rear centre ones go into aluminium threads so don't tighten them too much or they will easily strip! Threads can strip too if the 4 longer screws are misplaced : They only go to both rear corners where the sump lip carries a strengthener plate on each side.
You refitted the "old engine" lifting bracket to the rear of the spare engine: Those 2 nuts are also clamping the cyl. head down to the block so be sure both studs are tall enough to accept all the nut threads, and be sure to torque them to 46 lbf.ft .
Possibly the engine in the car overheated at some point and the thermostat might be stuck closed.. so be safe and fit a NEW 82° thermostat (put the small hole/valve upfront/uppermost to help air bleeding).
If you remove and check clutch parts for wear, on refitting be sure to keep the clutch plate splines centered over the flywheel & diaphragm spring centre. This can be done by eye or with the help of an adequately sized socket + extension. Confirm your centering by trying to fit the spare transmission fully home. You can help splines engagement by putting first gear on and then rotating the output flange to & fro.
If you decide running a water hose in order to flush coolant passage ways in the engine & radiator: do that while they are not connected together so the radiator will not become clogged by a flow of deposits coming from the engine..
As we can see, a young Stromberg carburetor expert is deeply involved.. So young & already bitten by the Triumph bug!! 😄
Fingers crossed! 😉
Good to know about the mesh and the sump screws! I’m definitely going to put new oil in to be safe. I’ll look into the thermostat and looking at the clutch parts, thanks!
Hi Saige .... I know you're up against a deadline, you really ought to take off the clutch if only to inspect the plate, flywheel and prosper bronze spigot bush that sits in the end of the crankshaft ..... it's the bit that the gearbox input shaft goes into on the end of the crankshaft .... take it out, put on the input shaft and see if it has any play in it .... or just crack on and go hell for leather lol !!
Keep up the good work kiddio !
Good work Saige. Good luck getting it all done in the next few weeks so you can take it to British Car Day.
Change the oil filter because it will be full of old oil. It's the easiest job and will protect the new clean oil you will be adding.
I’ll check this out thanks for letting me know!
I’ll do that thanks!
Interesting that there wasn’t a lifting eye on the engine to start with. However, the nuts you will have undone to fit it are also those that hold the head on! It’s crucial these are done up to the correct torque. And given you should torque the head in a specific order to avoid distortion it would probably be sensible to do a full head re torque (your workshop manual will give you the proper order to loosen the rest, and then torque them down again).
Wow I’m glad you told me before I put it all back together!
yay... you guys might just make the bronte car show. just a word of wisdom.... make sure the transmission splines match the clutch. the splines i saw when you removed the transmission are ten splines. spitfires changes to twenty splines in the mid seventies. so you guys might have to remove the clutch pressure plate and swap out the clutch that matches the splines in your car now. if the transmission in your car is ten spline - you're good go.
Ohh wow good to know I’ll check!
SO GLAD you desided to drop the oil pan and check for sludge and bits! There is allot of sludge so I would take the valve cover off also and start cleaning it also! The rust in the water jacket is a problem but not bad but you can take care of that when you get the engine running and do a radiator flush just don't put the thermostat in till you get it done then put it back in.
I’m thankful for everyone telling me to check the sump, better safe than sorry!
i saw the short re the egr question and ive just watched this video so an answer :-
what you call the air distributor looks more like the fuel pump to me please check - the British cars i worked on had belt driven air pumps and air injectors i think this is the case with 1500s as well (cant rember for sure too long ago) but if your running an electric pump it wont matter ...
1. EGR : an engine in good condition and properly tuned even upto hot street engines can be made to run with very limited emissions a mild 'street' engine well set up will probably have better
emission tail pipe readings than a stock motor - the caveat is well tuned properly set up - not hard to do just attention to detail - carb in good condition proper distributor setting and in good
condition good compression no oil burning - if the regs in your area don't require an egr leave it off.
2. good move to take of the sump while your there also check the crank journals and bearings and replace bearings with new anyway - thoroughly clean inside the crank case and oil
pump check the body and gears for wear andassembly
3. Clutch - check for wear if there is little or no material down to the face of the rivets replace but make sure to get the right spline no (coarse yours looks like 10 spline but check alternative is
fine (20 spline ?) gearbox might not fit otherwise and its a bugger to take everything out again ... also the throw out bearing put new anyway latter = pain in the ar**
4. engine mounts - put new while you can - doing it latter is a pain in the ar** also gearbox mounts they are cheap
5. Exhaust check the exhaust manifolds from memory the angles for the exit are different ie your 1300 pipe might be at a different angle to the 1500 and not meet up properly but cant
remember for sure its been a long time...
as a by the by the 1300 is in some ways a better engine it revs better smaller lighter even the 1147cc versions would make 100hp in a little car 134mph at le mans that's fast enough the 1500 is all torque that's not a bad thing
look up David Vizards channel hes an english engineer how specialises in engine building hes in his 80's but hes forgotten more things about engines than most people ever learn
i did my trade training on these (spitfires) 2000 sedans stags and minis there alot of fun
dcm
up loading screwed up my formatting and lost a sentence - when you check the oil pump pack it with assembly lube or similar so you don't have to wait to get oil pressure when you do your first start up
You’re right it is the fuel pump I’m still learning what everything is called! This is such great info I’ll keep it all in mind moving forward, thank you :)
I'm not a Spitfire expert, but isn't the thing you called the air valve really the fuel pump?
Yep!
You’re right! I’m still learning all the different parts :)
Good job on working through the new engine. There is a lot of sludge so good you are dropping the pan. Question are you not planning on checking the cylinders, crank and etc like you did on the old engine? If not I would still consider checking the rod bearings and maybe do a quick bearing job...you got it apart and would be quick to check the rod bearings and mains with plasti-gauge. New bearings are cheap and slap in new bearings would be good thing to do while you got it apart.
Love that you are training the next generation....looks like your nephew is having fun and interested in mechanical things.
Safety: Not sure why I didn't notice this until this video. You have really long hair...not important now but once the engine is running....make sure to have it tucked away from moving parts when leaning over cars. My step father used to work for Bell helicopter and always wore clip on ties....I asked him why once and he had seen really bad things happen to people when loose clothing or etc gets caught into moving parts.
As always be safe and looks like the project is moving along.
Since I was in a big rush I wasn’t planning on checking everything (which is bad I know!) but now I might go through and double check everything. Colson absolutely loves helping out and fixing things, I definitely think he’ll be in the mechanical world when he’s older! That’s such a good point about my hair I actually hadn’t thought about it but I’ll keep it in mind now!
you might find using sockets is a lot quicker that using spanners where possible.
And a power ratchet will really speed things up!
Good idea :)
I’m definitely in need of some power tools!
you're an old time spanner girl.👍
nice spitty
Thank you!
Note: Your alternator loop bracket is on the wrong side of the alternator, it should be in front of it :)
Whoops thanks for letting me know!
Excellent video (as always 😀). I hope the sump off shows no major problems. Fingers crossed. Cheers, Steve
Me too! Thanks Steve :)
the egr is pointless youre doing far greater things for the enviroment by not letting a car rot into the ground. good spark plugs a slightly rich carb tune and quality tires will do far greater things then an exhaust gas recirculation
The amount you'll drive the car, emissions control really won't make any difference to the planet. Also because China. Just drive and enjoy it.
Also, these tiny engines almost meet requirements without any of the emissions stuff. The most important emission control device is that automatic choke, which limits an over-rich mixture.
Good to know!
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