Take pictures before of the existing setup. One thing I noticed is the gasket between the carb and the intake manifold should use the 2 similar gaskets with the metal shim between them, these come with the kit. Reason is to make up for a potentially warped intake manifold where it contacts the carb.
Dustin Burns, I want to thank you soooo much! For the past two seasons, I have had three repairmen look at my L175 and none of them could get it started. One it was the points, one it was water in the line, and the last clean the carb, none keep it going. So I just happen to find your video and your machine had all the same issues as mine. Instead of trashing it, I now have a 4k machine replacement, my own, and still working and working even stronger. I replaced the carb, and had no issues, just followed your experience. thank you Mark in Douglas NB.(Cda)
I’m totally there with ya’ when you say every time you do something you find yourself doing something else. I am at the point where I think I’ve changed every component on my JD except the engine block!
Donyboy has a vid where he had constant issues and pulled the carb twice to clean it and still issues. Check that your carb doesn't have an external venting hose on it. If it does, trace from the carb back and see if its plugged or fouled. Donyboys was so long it got caught and crimped by the pulley. A vented carb that can't vent will cause issues.
I had to reroute the solenoid wires when I did mine. They were a bit too short. Also when tightening the carb to the plastic intake, do not over tighten. A common problem with that manifold is it can warp or even separate at the joints. If your mower will only run with the choke on then you have a vacuum leak. Either from that intake or the tube that runs from the valve cover to the fuel pump.
It really doesn't matter. Put it in one way, and debris collects in the center/bottom. Flip it, and the debris collects around the circumference/bottom. Either way, debris is caught and fuel has a clear path to flow through.
It’s exactly like your underwear, just a little different. Turn your undies inside out after awhile good to go. Fuel filter run it for awhile then turn it around for a nudder service cycle
My 190c starts right away but it runs on very high idle. Playing with choke or the orange speed control lever has no effect on it. Just running super high idle. Does anyone know what that could be??? Thanx
Your problem is the choke isn’t working. The linkage on the new carb and the old carb is different and keeps it from choking. Look at the difference between the new and old choke linkage on carb where the linkage attaches. Thanks Dickie @ Dickies Lawnmowers
I did. On my E180 I figured out the two right side links but the link to the choke on the left side eludes me. I have the one with the plastic weight on the link. did you figure yours out?
Set your valve clearance on all valves mine was a hard starter and a buddy set my valve clearance and presto....started fine. Believe it was .006 in . Do all 4 valves. There are videos on how to do it
He said at the first he got the carburetor from Amazon. I was looking and they have everything from a knock off to a carburetor with the Briggs and Stratton emblem on the carburetor body. He bought a knock off for under $30 . The original is closer to $75
Sounds like valves need adjusted. Don't have a valve tool ? Use a Dr.Pepper can cut into strips,it's 4 thousand in thickness and I set all my valves at 4 thousand. I have no issues.
Great video! Tried EVERYTHING else first. Swapping the carb is the only thing that fixed the surging and rough running. Thanks!
Take pictures before of the existing setup. One thing I noticed is the gasket between the carb and the intake manifold should use the 2 similar gaskets with the metal shim between them, these come with the kit. Reason is to make up for a potentially warped intake manifold where it contacts the carb.
4 mm. -- that's what I was looking here for. Thanks!
Dustin Burns, I want to thank you soooo much! For the past two seasons, I have had three repairmen look at my L175 and none of them could get it started. One it was the points, one it was water in the line, and the last clean the carb, none keep it going. So I just happen to find your video and your machine had all the same issues as mine. Instead of trashing it, I now have a 4k machine replacement, my own, and still working and working even stronger. I replaced the carb, and had no issues, just followed your experience. thank you Mark in Douglas NB.(Cda)
Thank you for your comment. I'm super happy I could help! Hope you get many more years out of your machine.
So all it needed was a new carb???
@@joleaiperlis5347 after replacing it taken start n I was oh well, I tried but 5mins later, she kicked and hasn't stopped yet
I followed this video and was able to get my tractor back to work!
I’m trying to fix my dads lawn mower and this was super helpful to me thank you
I’m totally there with ya’ when you say every time you do something you find yourself doing something else. I am at the point where I think I’ve changed every component on my JD except the engine block!
Thank you, this video helped me swapped mine out.
weak fuel pump I just replaced mine but carbs are next thanks for the vid brother
I'm stoked to do this. My fuel solenoid does not always click.
Donyboy has a vid where he had constant issues and pulled the carb twice to clean it and still issues.
Check that your carb doesn't have an external venting hose on it. If it does, trace from the carb back and see if its plugged or fouled.
Donyboys was so long it got caught and crimped by the pulley.
A vented carb that can't vent will cause issues.
I had to reroute the solenoid wires when I did mine. They were a bit too short. Also when tightening the carb to the plastic intake, do not over tighten. A common problem with that manifold is it can warp or even separate at the joints. If your mower will only run with the choke on then you have a vacuum leak. Either from that intake or the tube that runs from the valve cover to the fuel pump.
Doing that now. Low 50s weather. Going to clean instead of buying new.🤙
A great help video! Thanks!
Unless I missed it, I needed to see throttle & governor links attached. Did I miss it?
You put the fuel filter on backwards ?
Saw that !
Good catch. I didn't even realize.
They can go on both ways
Great video. I write date on fuel filter with sharpie
It really doesn't matter. Put it in one way, and debris collects in the center/bottom. Flip it, and the debris collects around the circumference/bottom. Either way, debris is caught and fuel has a clear path to flow through.
Fuel filter is on backwards.
It’s exactly like your underwear, just a little different. Turn your undies inside out after awhile good to go. Fuel filter run it for awhile then turn it around for a nudder service cycle
@@jg413that’s a good way to get a bunch of crap in your carb
You put the fuel filter right until you took it off to get the plastic off the end. Then put it back on backwards 🤦🏼♀️
My 190c starts right away but it runs on very high idle. Playing with choke or the orange speed control lever has no effect on it. Just running super high idle. Does anyone know what that could be??? Thanx
As I was disassembling mine it did already have both gaskets sandwiched on the from the factory
Your problem is the choke isn’t working. The linkage on the new carb and the old carb is different and keeps it from choking. Look at the difference between the new and old choke linkage on carb where the linkage attaches.
Thanks
Dickie @ Dickies Lawnmowers
Did you have any problem with hooking up the linkage for throttle and choke?
I did. On my E180 I figured out the two right side links but the link to the choke on the left side eludes me. I have the one with the plastic weight on the link. did you figure yours out?
Awesome job and I do the same
fuel filter on backward low fuel pressure out of pump, lewis
It's been two years, how has the Chinese carb held up?
I'm here for this answer.
also left hose clamp on fuel pump not on and tightened ( hose from fuel pump to carb )
Does your mower have the choke link with a plastic part on it?
Do you actually need that plastic link retainer??
@@jonathanwashington4179 Yep. It can come out of the linkage without it.
Set your valve clearance on all valves mine was a hard starter and a buddy set my valve clearance and presto....started fine. Believe it was .006 in . Do all 4 valves. There are videos on how to do it
4 thousand valve clearance on all four for mine. Don't have a valve tool ? Use a Dr. Pepper can cut into a strip. It's 4 thousand in thickness.
@@shannonbrooks8834
Good tip I didn't know that. Thank you for sharing.
What carb did you buy? I’m having a hard time finding one.
Of course this dumb ass didn't answer.
He said at the first he got the carburetor from Amazon. I was looking and they have everything from a knock off to a carburetor with the Briggs and Stratton emblem on the carburetor body. He bought a knock off for under $30 . The original is closer to $75
Sounds like valves need adjusted. Don't have a valve tool ? Use a Dr.Pepper can cut into strips,it's 4 thousand in thickness and I set all my valves at 4 thousand. I have no issues.
Must be an electrician, by the pliers
Check your choke cable
Need to prime fuel filter no gas coming from there
Your choke's not set right