Appreciate your camera angle and explanation. It's late now, so I will try what you did tomorrow and hopefully I will get good result. Thanks for taking the time, am hoping I will have same result. you may have had just a little dirt that became loose when you took apart. Thanks again.
I believe it might have just been a sticky backfire solenoid. After taking apart and cleaning, it seemed to have fixed the issue. Good luck with your machine. Hope you figure it out. Cheers
I think I have solved this one. John Deere have replaced the Briggs and Stratton needle and seat from the B&S original. The JD one is white plastic, the B&S one is brass. They may have a different material for the tip. What happens, I think, is that the JD substitute is too light, so it is more prone to sticking closed. I discovered with numerous stoppages that all I had to do was loosen the float bowl and reattach, and this would clear the problem for a while. Order a replacement needle direct from Briggs and Stratton, not JD or their dealers. That will ensure you get the brass one. I have never had a repeat of the problem since I installed the brass needle. Either the JD substitute has too sticky a tip, or is too light, or both. And the B&S needle is cheaper! And that's for the thorough analysis, which I followed to isolate the problem!
I'm trying to understand why your main fuel line shutoff was after the fuel filter. I have mine, on my machines, before the filter so when I want to change a fuel filter all I have to do is turn off fuel shutoff, run engine dry and change fuel filter with no mess. Just sayin.... My compliments on a very clear video.
Today is 12-10-24 and I am having same issues so after my coffee I will begin great video I started thinking it was your solenoid valve or a air pocket some where a good way to test your solenoid is two leads from your battery and you will see it open and close if it's good great video Brother 👍🤙
When I was testing, I turned the key and you could hear the solenoid clicking. I reckon it was probably sticky and loosened itself over time. Good luck with your machine. Cheers
Great video, exact same thing happened to me last summer, didn’t find anything and it started back up and ran for the rest of the summer. Yesterday tried to start it after winter and did not start. Raining today will look at it tomorrow.
$0 fix!! I love those kinds. Sometimes those floats and needle valves get stuck after sitting in the same position for a while. Thanks for keeping us posted. Cheers
My LA135 ran two weeks ago. Took it out of the garage yesterday, got 50' and it died. I did everything that you did in the video, and now it runs. lol. No fuel in the bowl so I assume the float was just stuck enough that it wouldn't fill. Thanks for your step by step.
I was struggling with my John Deere 140 running out of fuel. It would start and run normal but the fuel filter would run empty after a few minutes even with a full tank of gas. Changed the fuel filter, pump and vacuum hose with no change. I proceeded to pump air from fuel tank to line before fuel filter, then I got a good stream of fuel. Then removed fuel bowl and checked needle and float. They looked in good condition but there was old dark fuel in the bowl. I was able to remove the fuel bowl without removing the carburetor. It seems to be running good now.
@@henryburness3580 could be the float not set correctly or a fuel line that is collapsing in on itself allowing only a small amount of fuel through. This won't necessarily be noticeable from the outside. Could be a partially clogged fuel filter. Also could be a pump or fuel solenoid going bad. I'd start with taking the fuel line off at the carb and turn over the engine to make sure there is good flow.
Mine does it every winter. The first year I took the carb apart and with the float and needle valve out of it I tried to blow through it and it was plugged solid. I took a piece of wire and poked it through the hole where the needle valve goes and didn't see much, but tried to blow again on the inlet and it was open. Ran all summer. Next year same thing. I looked closer the second time and found that there was a little bit of varnish from the gas going bad over the winter. Now I just plan on cleaning it every year and no problems.
Have many mowers over 10 years that have just needed a nudge on the carb bowl to get the needle valve to pop off the seal with the seat. I believe it is caused by ethanol on the valve and seat area that causes this problem because never had the issue with mowers that had no ethanol fuel.
Hey Wayne. It definitely had to be a needle and seat issue or a fuel solenoid issue. I even showed the customer how to gently tap the carb bowl if this issue happens during the year. He didn't complain about the issue all summer. This mower is coming back for its yearly service soon so I'll be able to see if the owner followed my advice for winter storage. Thanks for the comments.
Good fault-finding and narrowing down of the problem. I'm curious though why you didn't give the carb a thorough clean once you went to all the trouble of taking it off. I'm no expert but after watching enough of Mustie1's videos, he gives the carbs a good cleaning and check by removing the jets (main, slow, air screw etc. He also tests the float by setting of it does actually float and doesn't have a hole which makes it full with fuel. You can test the float and needle after cleaning by blowing through the fuel inlet nozzle. Blowing through the carb when it is right way up should let air through. Turn the carb upside down and it won't let you blow through it
I fully serviced this carb last fall so didn't think the carb was dirty at all. Especially since everything was operating correctly during troubleshooting. The customer has been using the machine for the last month with no issues. Still baffling
The only other thing i can think of is that the fuel inlet of the carburettor might have had dirt behind it. I didn't even know you could pull the connector off but donyboy did it in this vid m.ruclips.net/video/Pb4he2F4ZEw/видео.html
Lord! I am having the identical problem with my machine and have gone as far as the fuel pump with all systems working. I now have to take my carb off and do the rest of the tests you did. Hopefully I will have the same results as you. I was just wondering if the “wire cleaning “ trick did the job. Thanks for the video.
It was that solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor the whole time that is also called a shut off for the fuel it actually when it works it moves the float up and down
Thank you so much. I followed this video and looks like there must have been a clog in the tube after my fuel pump bc after I unplugged it, it started running again. I’ve had trouble with this for some time now.
You might want to consider changing out the filter and fuel line if this keeps happening after the filter. The fuel line could be deteriorating from the inside and look normal from outside. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
Thanks for the suggestion Mike. I did check the function of the solenoid. I could hear the clicking when turning the key ON and OFF. It could very well have been a sticky solenoid. I put it all back together and it has been running without issue for the last 2 seasons. Thanks for watching. Cheers
Mine did that. A mouse had chewed the wire off going to the anti back fire valve. Check for voltage at carb. This works as a fuel shutoff like a diesel engine.
I did check for the clicking noise of the solenoid when turning the key. Didn't check the voltage though. Maybe intermittent. This was a customer machine from last spring/summer. He has not brought it back since so whatever gremlins where in there have moved out, hopefully for good. Thanks for the feedback. Cheers
I did hear a clicking noise when turning the key. So I believe solenoid was working although I did not check resistance. This was a customer machine from last year. He hasn't any issues since so hopefully the bugs were worked out somehow. Thanks for the feedback. Cheers
I just went thru a similar problem and it turned out to be the fuel line from the tank going to the fuel filter. It was collapsing under heavey usage but not always. Changed that line and all worked.
Good catch. This is why I always work backwards from the tank making sure I have proper flow at all points. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
@brantsmallenginerepairs But it was still difficult to diagnose because gas would come out of the fuel pump and then later it would not. So I was fooled and changed the pump. Turns out when the engine called for more gas is when the line would colapse slightly causing the engine to slow down or stall. It was almost as though there was a vacuum in the tank and gravity wasn't working any longer. I also loosened the gas cap to see if that would fix it.
I have an older Tecumseh 5hp on an old log splitter that is giving me the same problem. If I prime like crazy or shoot start fluid in the carb it will start but then quit. New fuel, changed filter, and then replaced carb. Still doing the same??? What significance is the carb. primer bulb with hole/without hole?
If the engine runs and dies, it's a fuel problem. If you've put on a new carb, and it's the right one, I would check the fuel lines and filter screen inside the tank. Pull off the fuel line at the carb and check for proper flow. If there's adequate flow from the tank, through the fuel lines, check for fuel in the float bowl of the carb. You could have a stuck needle valve not allowing fuel into the carb.
So I just had a similar problem with the same engine. Went through the carb, replaced fuel pump and vac hose. Engine would start and run fully choked, but died out almost immediately on releasing choke. Found that the rubber gasket in the fuel cap had fallen apart and was jamming the vent closed on the cap. Ran fine with the cap off!
If it runs without the cap but doesn't run with the cap, your tank is not venting. Make sure to clear the vent hose if it's a separate line or replace the gas cap if it vents through the cap. Cheers
I removed the fuel solenoid all together and no fuel came out of the float bowl. Also, I did mention that the solenoid was clicking when I turn on the key indicating the plunger was moving. Thanks for the suggestion. Cheers
I've had similar problems on lawn mowers. What I found was that letting them sit over winter the needle would stay closed. It's like a shellac making it stick. When I realized what was happening I would turn gas off when storing and run engine to empty carb. In spring turn gas back on. When you disassembled you probably unstuck the needle..
I do try but sometimes I like the close shots and do not like to use digital zoom if I can help it as it reduces the quality and adds pixelation. Thanks for the tip though. Always striving to produce a better quality video for everyone. Cheers
I have the same baffling issue. Fuel seems to be pumping but will not start. Spray starter fluid in from air intake and it runs for a few seconds fine. Then stops.
What I believed it to be was a sticky needle valve. Also, make sure the fuel shutoff solenoid is opening, allowing fuel to enter the carburetor from the float bowl.
It shouldn't be the anti backfire solenoid which has nothing to do with regulating fuel into the bowl. That only prevents fuel from entrancing the jet tube after shutdown. Only thing it can be since fuel is getting to carb is the float bowl is sticking closed. This happens alot if times after they sit for a while. Sometimes you can tap the bowl lightly and free it up. Or best thing is to clean the needle valve & seat chamber and possible replace needle valve and seat if there is a seat on your model. If these parts look good mainly just a good cleaning so the float bowl Open and closes freely. Because after they sit a while and old gas turns to gunk in there and can cause problems. Ever now and then a clog may form were gas enters carb up to the needle valve but rarely happens in my experience. Thank you.
I believe you were right. It was likely a sticky needle valve. I serviced the carburetor and sent it on it's way. Haven't had any customer complaints since it left. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
I think this is a good idea. If you watched the video and traced the fuel flow back from the tank, it's most likely it's a stuck needle valve. Thanks for watching. Cheers
Thanks for the suggestion. It ended up being a sticky anti-backfire valve. A non-vented tank would create a vacuum and not allow fuel to flow from it. As I showed in the video, there was fuel flowing out of the line that enters the carb.
I always wondered what Bruce Dern was doing after he did all those cowboys shows way back when. 😁 I've seen other videos where they've tested that plunger silanoid. Make sure it goes up-and-down on the carburetor. I'm fighting a fuel pump on my John Deere. 160 tractor - doesn't want to work.
@@brantsmallenginerepairs You need to do a video on the needle valve because I know when I work on a carburetor a bunch of little pieces fall out and I never know where they go back to.
Bad fuel shut off valve sticking closed and or needle valve sticking closed because of fuels. Best to install inline fuel shutoff valve right after the tank if mounted high on mower. Turn off fuel allow mower to run out of gas. Turn on fuel before starting again and that should resolve the problem. As long as you keep the fuel from sitting in the carb and bowl.
Thanks for the suggestions. I chalked this up to a sticky needle valve. I have given this advise to many customers regarding using the fuel shut off. Many still don't do it. Keeps me busy.
Well i have the same exact track with the same problem. So im going to do what you just showed us in your vidio tommorw and see what happens. Ty ill let you onow how it turns out..
I definitely think it was a fuel shutoff solenoid that was acting up. It continued to run all last season and this season without further issue. Thanks for your idea. Cheers
I’m having the exact same issue. My son feels that the solenoid could be faulty, hence, looking for videos that might help to figure it out…..any luck on yours yet?
The solenoid could be faulty or intermittent. Check by listening for clicking sound when turning the key to accessory. As for this one. I put it back together as you saw, sent it back to the customer, and haven't heard of any issues since. It was a head scratcher for sure. Thanks for stopping by my channel. Cheers
Could be anything in the fuel system. This is why i look for blockages in the video starting from the fuel filter. Glad you got yours sorted out. Cheers
@@geraldwerth6164 if you haven't figured it out yet, it might be time to swap out some parts. If you've checked all the things from my video, I would focus on the carb. Maybe start with needle and seat or just go straight to replacement of the whole carb. Keep me posted if you get it sorted out. Cheers
@@brantsmallenginerepairs my son-in-law figured it out, there was a block in the fuel line and once cleared ran like a charm. He did say that I should replace the fuel filter…yay, it cost me $6 bucks and 15 minutes of his time…brilliant!
This solenoid was confirmed working as I tested it in the video and heard it click open. It's possible it was sticky though. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
Checked that in the video. It was clicking when turning the key. Was probably intermittent though. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
Hope you figure it out. Troubleshooting can be frustrating that's for sure. Especially when stuff is intermittent. Good luck and keep us posted if you get it sorted out. Cheers
@@brantsmallenginerepairs Figured it out. The fuel line had a hole in it where it joins with the fuel pickup. Got it running better than ever....I think that hole may have been there for a long time causing the engine to backfire once in a while, especially when shutting the engine down. Unfortunately, when I started mowing, the right drag link broke (the wheels had been looking a little too angled for a while. Got two new drag links and I'll replace them this weekend.
I tested it. You could hear it clicking when the key was turned on. Could have been sticky I guess. Haven't heard from the owner with any problems since though. Thanks for watching. Cheers
![No more vacuum fuel pump problems! GY6 Won’t start: FIX! [PROBLD PULSER UNIT]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I_k3jgNswCU/mqdefault.jpg)
your video is a 100% of what i had gone threw . I just took off the bowl moved the float once by hand and it started working thanks for the info
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
I followed the troubleshooting steps and it's the fuel pump, thank you for showing the whole process and what a good fuel flow looks like!
Glad I could help. Please Like the video and consider Subscribing to my channel. This helps me out. Cheers
Appreciate your camera angle and explanation. It's late now, so I will try what you did tomorrow and hopefully I will get good result. Thanks for taking the time, am hoping I will have same result. you may have had just a little dirt that became loose when you took apart. Thanks again.
I believe it might have just been a sticky backfire solenoid. After taking apart and cleaning, it seemed to have fixed the issue. Good luck with your machine. Hope you figure it out. Cheers
I think I have solved this one. John Deere have replaced the Briggs and Stratton needle and seat from the B&S original. The JD one is white plastic, the B&S one is brass. They may have a different material for the tip. What happens, I think, is that the JD substitute is too light, so it is more prone to sticking closed. I discovered with numerous stoppages that all I had to do was loosen the float bowl and reattach, and this would clear the problem for a while. Order a replacement needle direct from Briggs and Stratton, not JD or their dealers. That will ensure you get the brass one. I have never had a repeat of the problem since I installed the brass needle. Either the JD substitute has too sticky a tip, or is too light, or both. And the B&S needle is cheaper!
And that's for the thorough analysis, which I followed to isolate the problem!
Thanks for passing along your findings. I returned the machine to the customer already but I'm sure this will be helpful for others. Cheers
I'm trying to understand why your main fuel line shutoff was after the fuel filter. I have mine, on my machines, before the filter so when I want to change a fuel filter all I have to do is turn off fuel shutoff, run engine dry and change fuel filter with no mess. Just sayin.... My compliments on a very clear video.
Good point. Thanks for watching. Cheers
Did what you said with the same results!
Thanks for the video! Tomorrow I will adjust the valves.
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
Today is 12-10-24 and I am having same issues so after my coffee I will begin great video I started thinking it was your solenoid valve or a air pocket some where a good way to test your solenoid is two leads from your battery and you will see it open and close if it's good great video Brother 👍🤙
When I was testing, I turned the key and you could hear the solenoid clicking. I reckon it was probably sticky and loosened itself over time. Good luck with your machine. Cheers
Great video, exact same thing happened to me last summer, didn’t find anything and it started back up and ran for the rest of the summer. Yesterday tried to start it after winter and did not start. Raining today will look at it tomorrow.
Ok, couldn’t wait till tomorrow, knocked on fuel bowl with a wrench and it started up, wow. Thanks, problem solved.
$0 fix!! I love those kinds. Sometimes those floats and needle valves get stuck after sitting in the same position for a while. Thanks for keeping us posted. Cheers
My LA135 ran two weeks ago. Took it out of the garage yesterday, got 50' and it died. I did everything that you did in the video, and now it runs. lol. No fuel in the bowl so I assume the float was just stuck enough that it wouldn't fill. Thanks for your step by step.
Could be stuck float or sticky fuel solenoid. Glad you got it running again. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
I was struggling with my John Deere 140 running out of fuel. It would start and run normal but the fuel filter would run empty after a few minutes even with a full tank of gas. Changed the fuel filter, pump and vacuum hose with no change.
I proceeded to pump air from fuel tank to line before fuel filter, then I got a good stream of fuel. Then removed fuel bowl and checked needle and float. They looked in good condition but there was old dark fuel in the bowl.
I was able to remove the fuel bowl without removing the carburetor. It seems to be running good now.
Glad you were able to sort it out. Sometimes the fuel lines collapse in on themselves without a noticeable visual cue. Thanks for watching. Cheers
I have same problem d130 22 hp will run but after awhile will sputter quit no fuel in filter let it sit and it fills back up
@@henryburness3580 could be the float not set correctly or a fuel line that is collapsing in on itself allowing only a small amount of fuel through. This won't necessarily be noticeable from the outside. Could be a partially clogged fuel filter. Also could be a pump or fuel solenoid going bad. I'd start with taking the fuel line off at the carb and turn over the engine to make sure there is good flow.
Learned so much. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
Mine does it every winter. The first year I took the carb apart and with the float and needle valve out of it I tried to blow through it and it was plugged solid. I took a piece of wire and poked it through the hole where the needle valve goes and didn't see much, but tried to blow again on the inlet and it was open. Ran all summer. Next year same thing. I looked closer the second time and found that there was a little bit of varnish from the gas going bad over the winter. Now I just plan on cleaning it every year and no problems.
Thanks for warching and sharing your experience. Cheers
Have many mowers over 10 years that have just needed a nudge on the carb bowl to get the needle valve to pop off the seal with the seat. I believe it is caused by ethanol on the valve and seat area that causes this problem because never had the issue with mowers that had no ethanol fuel.
Hey Wayne. It definitely had to be a needle and seat issue or a fuel solenoid issue. I even showed the customer how to gently tap the carb bowl if this issue happens during the year. He didn't complain about the issue all summer. This mower is coming back for its yearly service soon so I'll be able to see if the owner followed my advice for winter storage. Thanks for the comments.
Good fault-finding and narrowing down of the problem.
I'm curious though why you didn't give the carb a thorough clean once you went to all the trouble of taking it off. I'm no expert but after watching enough of Mustie1's videos, he gives the carbs a good cleaning and check by removing the jets (main, slow, air screw etc. He also tests the float by setting of it does actually float and doesn't have a hole which makes it full with fuel.
You can test the float and needle after cleaning by blowing through the fuel inlet nozzle. Blowing through the carb when it is right way up should let air through. Turn the carb upside down and it won't let you blow through it
I fully serviced this carb last fall so didn't think the carb was dirty at all. Especially since everything was operating correctly during troubleshooting. The customer has been using the machine for the last month with no issues. Still baffling
The only other thing i can think of is that the fuel inlet of the carburettor might have had dirt behind it. I didn't even know you could pull the connector off but donyboy did it in this vid
m.ruclips.net/video/Pb4he2F4ZEw/видео.html
@@bittertruth6575 I've seen that video. Completely different style of carburetor. But thanks for the suggestions
Lord! I am having the identical problem with my machine and have gone as far as the fuel pump with all systems working. I now have to take my carb off and do the rest of the tests you did. Hopefully I will have the same results as you. I was just wondering if the “wire cleaning “ trick did the job. Thanks for the video.
guys, thank you for your videos all good info, but please invest on tripod for video equipment.
I do use a tripod but sometimes need to get the audience in closer. Thanks for watching. Cheers
It was that solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor the whole time that is also called a shut off for the fuel it actually when it works it moves the float up and down
Thanks
Thank you so much. I followed this video and looks like there must have been a clog in the tube after my fuel pump bc after I unplugged it, it started running again. I’ve had trouble with this for some time now.
You might want to consider changing out the filter and fuel line if this keeps happening after the filter. The fuel line could be deteriorating from the inside and look normal from outside. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
Check fuel solenoid see if it is opening and closing..
Or change it out. Make sure you getting voltage to the solenoid.
Thanks for the suggestion Mike. I did check the function of the solenoid. I could hear the clicking when turning the key ON and OFF. It could very well have been a sticky solenoid. I put it all back together and it has been running without issue for the last 2 seasons. Thanks for watching. Cheers
Mine did that. A mouse had chewed the wire off going to the anti back fire valve. Check for voltage at carb. This works as a fuel shutoff like a diesel engine.
I did check for the clicking noise of the solenoid when turning the key. Didn't check the voltage though. Maybe intermittent. This was a customer machine from last spring/summer. He has not brought it back since so whatever gremlins where in there have moved out, hopefully for good. Thanks for the feedback. Cheers
The shutoff solenoid may not be functioning either by voltage or friction. Check resistance to it
Probably not getting ground to open the needle
I did hear a clicking noise when turning the key. So I believe solenoid was working although I did not check resistance. This was a customer machine from last year. He hasn't any issues since so hopefully the bugs were worked out somehow. Thanks for the feedback. Cheers
I just went thru a similar problem and it turned out to be the fuel line from the tank going to the fuel filter. It was collapsing under heavey usage but not always. Changed that line and all worked.
Good catch. This is why I always work backwards from the tank making sure I have proper flow at all points. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
@brantsmallenginerepairs
But it was still difficult to diagnose because gas would come out of the fuel pump and then later it would not. So I was fooled and changed the pump. Turns out when the engine called for more gas is when the line would colapse slightly causing the engine to slow down or stall. It was almost as though there was a vacuum in the tank and gravity wasn't working any longer. I also loosened the gas cap to see if that would fix it.
I have an older Tecumseh 5hp on an old log splitter that is giving me the same problem.
If I prime like crazy or shoot start fluid in the carb it will start but then quit.
New fuel, changed filter, and then replaced carb.
Still doing the same???
What significance is the carb. primer bulb with hole/without hole?
If the engine runs and dies, it's a fuel problem. If you've put on a new carb, and it's the right one, I would check the fuel lines and filter screen inside the tank. Pull off the fuel line at the carb and check for proper flow. If there's adequate flow from the tank, through the fuel lines, check for fuel in the float bowl of the carb. You could have a stuck needle valve not allowing fuel into the carb.
So I just had a similar problem with the same engine. Went through the carb, replaced fuel pump and vac hose. Engine would start and run fully choked, but died out almost immediately on releasing choke. Found that the rubber gasket in the fuel cap had fallen apart and was jamming the vent closed on the cap. Ran fine with the cap off!
If it runs without the cap but doesn't run with the cap, your tank is not venting. Make sure to clear the vent hose if it's a separate line or replace the gas cap if it vents through the cap. Cheers
Replaced the cap and all is good now. Thanks for the reply.@@brantsmallenginerepairs
@@73dcp glad you got it sorted out. Thanks for letting us know. Cheers
Did I miss your checking the FUEL SOLENOID?? It's still surging?
I removed the fuel solenoid all together and no fuel came out of the float bowl. Also, I did mention that the solenoid was clicking when I turn on the key indicating the plunger was moving. Thanks for the suggestion. Cheers
I've had similar problems on lawn mowers. What I found was that letting them sit over winter the needle would stay closed. It's like a shellac making it stick. When I realized what was happening I would turn gas off when storing and run engine to empty carb. In spring turn gas back on. When you disassembled you probably unstuck the needle..
I agree. It was either a sticky needle valve or sticky fuel solenoid. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
I had the same issue no fuel in the bowl. Removed the bowl, played with the float. Engine started right up... I have no idea what was the issue
It has to be a stuck float or needle valve preventing the fuel from entering the carburetor. Cheers
Good work, but you really should put the camera on a tripod for those close shots, so you can use both hands for the work. Thanks for the video.
I do try but sometimes I like the close shots and do not like to use digital zoom if I can help it as it reduces the quality and adds pixelation. Thanks for the tip though. Always striving to produce a better quality video for everyone. Cheers
I have the same baffling issue. Fuel seems to be pumping but will not start. Spray starter fluid in from air intake and it runs for a few seconds fine. Then stops.
What I believed it to be was a sticky needle valve. Also, make sure the fuel shutoff solenoid is opening, allowing fuel to enter the carburetor from the float bowl.
@@brantsmallenginerepairs turned out to be a bad fuel pump.
@@MarinePigVa thanks for letting us know. Congrats on figuring it out. Cheers
It shouldn't be the anti backfire solenoid which has nothing to do with regulating fuel into the bowl. That only prevents fuel from entrancing the jet tube after shutdown. Only thing it can be since fuel is getting to carb is the float bowl is sticking closed. This happens alot if times after they sit for a while. Sometimes you can tap the bowl lightly and free it up. Or best thing is to clean the needle valve & seat chamber and possible replace needle valve and seat if there is a seat on your model. If these parts look good mainly just a good cleaning so the float bowl Open and closes freely. Because after they sit a while and old gas turns to gunk in there and can cause problems. Ever now and then a clog may form were gas enters carb up to the needle valve but rarely happens in my experience. Thank you.
I believe you were right. It was likely a sticky needle valve. I serviced the carburetor and sent it on it's way. Haven't had any customer complaints since it left. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
this has happened to my mower a few times (same engine) until now, it just won't fill. My plan is to rebuild the carb and go from there.
I think this is a good idea. If you watched the video and traced the fuel flow back from the tank, it's most likely it's a stuck needle valve. Thanks for watching. Cheers
@@brantsmallenginerepairs Indeed what it was. Thanks mate!
@@darbycrash55 good job getting it sorted out. Take care
Need to vent the tank, possible Cab vent clogged ,or tank vent clogged.
Thanks for the suggestion. It ended up being a sticky anti-backfire valve. A non-vented tank would create a vacuum and not allow fuel to flow from it. As I showed in the video, there was fuel flowing out of the line that enters the carb.
I always wondered what Bruce Dern was doing after he did all those cowboys shows way back when. 😁 I've seen other videos where they've tested that plunger silanoid. Make sure it goes up-and-down on the carburetor.
I'm fighting a fuel pump on my John Deere. 160 tractor - doesn't want to work.
It ended up being a sticky needle valve. Thanks for watching. Cheers
@@brantsmallenginerepairs You need to do a video on the needle valve because I know when I work on a carburetor a bunch of little pieces fall out and I never know where they go back to.
Bad fuel shut off valve sticking closed and or needle valve sticking closed because of fuels. Best to install inline fuel shutoff valve right after the tank if mounted high on mower. Turn off fuel allow mower to run out of gas. Turn on fuel before starting again and that should resolve the problem. As long as you keep the fuel from sitting in the carb and bowl.
Thanks for the suggestions. I chalked this up to a sticky needle valve. I have given this advise to many customers regarding using the fuel shut off. Many still don't do it. Keeps me busy.
Well i have the same exact track with the same problem. So im going to do what you just showed us in your vidio tommorw and see what happens. Ty ill let you onow how it turns out..
Please keep us posted on how you make out. I believe the problem with this one was an sticky ant backfire valve. Cheers
Saw another video where solenoid was "stuck" (donyboy). He disabled his and just uses the fuel shutoff valve
I definitely think it was a fuel shutoff solenoid that was acting up. It continued to run all last season and this season without further issue. Thanks for your idea. Cheers
Maybe some crud in there somewhere that you released while dumping the lines out / flushing the fuel.
Could be. Sometimes just taking stuff apart and putting it back together does the trick.
When you turn the mower on usually the solenoid will clickif you don't hear that click the solenoid is not working or it is stuck
I tested the solenoid and heard the click. It's possible it was sticking intermittently. Thanks for watching. Cheers
I’m having the exact same issue. My son feels that the solenoid could be faulty, hence, looking for videos that might help to figure it out…..any luck on yours yet?
The solenoid could be faulty or intermittent. Check by listening for clicking sound when turning the key to accessory. As for this one. I put it back together as you saw, sent it back to the customer, and haven't heard of any issues since. It was a head scratcher for sure. Thanks for stopping by my channel. Cheers
Could be anything in the fuel system. This is why i look for blockages in the video starting from the fuel filter. Glad you got yours sorted out. Cheers
@@brantsmallenginerepairs I didn’t get it sorted out yet, I was hoping you did, thanks for you’re reply, appreciate it…
@@geraldwerth6164 if you haven't figured it out yet, it might be time to swap out some parts. If you've checked all the things from my video, I would focus on the carb. Maybe start with needle and seat or just go straight to replacement of the whole carb. Keep me posted if you get it sorted out. Cheers
@@brantsmallenginerepairs my son-in-law figured it out, there was a block in the fuel line and once cleared ran like a charm. He did say that I should replace the fuel filter…yay, it cost me $6 bucks and 15 minutes of his time…brilliant!
Back fire solenoid?
This solenoid was confirmed working as I tested it in the video and heard it click open. It's possible it was sticky though. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
Electronic solenoid if it's not getting power the solenoid won't open so the gas can go in the bowl
Checked that in the video. It was clicking when turning the key. Was probably intermittent though. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
Moving the carb around probably moved a stuck float valve
Possibly. Thanks for the suggestion. Cheers
Yeah I have the same problem,blow through the gas tank,air in the line.
Thanks for the suggestion. I believe it was a stuck needle valve.
Tap on carb or drop bowl and look at supply jet
I agree that it was a sticky needle valve. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Cheers
Hey the an
tibackfire is fuel shut off
Yes, I know. The anti backfire valve was working.
Same issue. Still trying.
Hope you figure it out. Troubleshooting can be frustrating that's for sure. Especially when stuff is intermittent. Good luck and keep us posted if you get it sorted out. Cheers
@@brantsmallenginerepairs Figured it out. The fuel line had a hole in it where it joins with the fuel pickup. Got it running better than ever....I think that hole may have been there for a long time causing the engine to backfire once in a while, especially when shutting the engine down. Unfortunately, when I started mowing, the right drag link broke (the wheels had been looking a little too angled for a while. Got two new drag links and I'll replace them this weekend.
@@markfolty6604 congrats on figuring it out. Thanks for letting us know. Good luck with the drag links
@@brantsmallenginerepairs Still trying. did you blow in to the gas cap cover for any possible air pockets.
@@markfolty6604 I repaired that also and still won't start. may be not tight enough?
I have the same. Problem
Hopefully this video helped troubleshoot the problem. There are some suggestions in the comments so be sure to read those also
Looks like fuel shutoff solenoid?????!
I tested it. You could hear it clicking when the key was turned on. Could have been sticky I guess. Haven't heard from the owner with any problems since though. Thanks for watching. Cheers
Fuelcap vent
Thanks for the suggestion. I had the fuel cap off and it didn't help. I believe it was a stuck needle valve which dislodged during disassembly. Cheers
Air in fuel line
The fuel was flowing fine when I tested it
it's is gas ⛽
Thanks for watching. Cheers
electric shut off, Lewis
Fuel solenoid was clicking indicating it was working. Thanks for the suggestion. Cheers
Old fuel
I believe it ended up being a sticky anti-backfire valve. Thanks for the suggestion. Cheers
Your Missing One Word.Interminntent.Its Probably. choke is Stuck.
How would a stuck choke cause there to be no fuel in the float bowl?
@@brantsmallenginerepairs Don't know what he's talking about may be? lol
Cut that tip off its why it's not getting fuel on the carb solenoid
Do you mean the tip of the solenoid?