Two John Deere Lawn Mowers - Cranks but Won't Start - Trade up Series
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- We started with $2 and are slowly fixing our way through broken down and non running items we find on Facebook marketplace, build on the profit from each repair, and plan on going until we get something cool. Hope you enjoy!
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DISCLAIMER'. this is not a how to video and I am not responsible for any actions you take on your equipment or property
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Captain have you ever noticed no matter how many work benches you have they always seem to become storage shelves 🤣great video 👏👏👏👍👍👍
for someone that says he's not a mechanic ,you do very well.
Sometimes I just try to be humble lol
@@CaptainKleeman Oh, Lord, it's hard to be humble....
I’d give it a shot of starting fluid & see if it even tries to go. Valves would have to be pretty far off for them to keep from starting & should show in compression test. Might pick up a cheap spark tester that goes in-line between the plug & wire to make sure spark isn’t dropping out while cranking.
Pull the flywheel Cap'n. Those keys look okay from the outside but, they have a tendency to partially shear and it is not visible unless you remove it. They are made of soft aluminium. I've replaced dozens on those Briggs engines.
I always try starting fuild first, then if it doesn’t pop off that then you go deeper into it. That broken hose to the fuel pump would definitely make it not run.
On the carburetor...there is a black plastic square piece with 4 small holes through it and held on with one screw. Take that off and look at the gasket under it. They like to swell up and it will block those small holes off. If thats not it I would say it still has to be something within the carburetor.
Hi Cap'n. If the valve clearance was too tight,( non existent ) , the valve would be open when it should be closed, and that would show on the comp test. If it was too big it should still run but rattley. Must be fuel or spark . Check those HT leads again.Or squirt some juice in the cylinder and try that. Good luck.
Yeah, check the gap on the coils as well. You may have a weak spark.
Cap’n I love your new lawn swamp buggy… That’s a real find!
Here’s a few things you might check to get the other one going…
Is the cup holder drain plugged?
Has the windshield washer fluid been rotated?
Is it missing the pine tree air freshener?
Is the antennae mount loose?
Is there too much slop in the four wheel drive linkage?
Are the mower blades on upside down?
These are all things that a guy wouldn’t notice up front so feel free to use this checklist as you do your next deep dive!
Rofl.
Good one.
Liked cup holder drain plug 😂
I was thinking about the same list but he addressed them all in his supplemental video. It also helps to hold your tongue just right when turning the key.
I always prefer to wash what I'm working on before servicing, but I also know that looking it over first can be very informative as to what might be going on with the equipment. I inspect then wash for that reason
👍 I'm doubting it's the valve clearance. My guess is a stupid seat safety switch or similar gone bad. But spark and gas should = varooom. Good luck. Did you say sailboat?
I think you’re on your way to being a Master Mechanic, Mike! I’m sure you’ll get it going.
💪
On the L120, check your push rods. I had a B&S engine like that with similar symptoms. I checked the valves and they were out of adjustment. It still didn’t start after setting them. Turned out they were out of adjustment due to a bent pushrod.
i would certainly reset the valves. the solenoid is a fuel shutoff to prevent backfires when u turn the mower off. i would visibly watch it operate out of the bowl to insure it function. glad to see u plug the fuel pump back in. it runs off of crank case vacuum and will not push fuel uphill unless it has it. also remove and clean the jets in the carb. you'll get it running i'm sure of it.
So we would just take the fuel solenoid off and turn the key to see if it is moving up or down?
The intake manifolds tend to crack where they are sonic welded together. Check the intake for warpage or separation.
I also suspect the flywheel key you can only see the top of the key it might be sheared halfway it doesn't take much stay safe have fun
Despite cleaning the carb, I always do well ordering a clean new one. They are cheap, and the old ones warp and clog in places that can't be cleaned. 75.679% effective. GL Captain!!!
I really like working on equipment. You have spark, fuel and we know you have air because the compression is good. Even if your valve settings were a little off, you have a wet spark plug and you are getting compression, so it should fire. I really can't wait until you figure out what is wrong. This would be a learning experience for me, too.
I’m not a mechanic but I have seen a bent blade keep a mower from starting. The bent blade was spinning freely but was throwing the crank or something out of balance. The guy put on a new blade and it fired right up.
Definitely check the valve clearances as its a known issue. Cam has a retracting compression release for starting. Too tight a setting and it doesnt operate correctly. I've checked flywheel as you did on those briggs intek in the past only to be caught out. Briggs used an aluminium key which only lightly distorts but can throw the timing also so worth pulling the flywheel and cleaning the magnets (inspect to make sure rivets are not damaged allowing movement) and the coils plus regap to ensure best possible spark. I've no doubt you will get it running sweet.
The First thing I do with a non running engine is to squirt a little 2-stroke gas mix down the carburetor. If it fires up for a couple of seconds, you'll know that the engine is capable of running and your chasing a fuel issue. Likely The Carburetor still has issues. The Fuel Pump Impulse/Vacuum hose is probably a Briggs & Stratton #694000. Always look forward to your video's!! Best of Luck.....................
I’ve owned and worked on a few of those mowers. Definitely try the starting fluid others have suggested. I’m pretty sure that mower didn’t have a fuel filter originally, so maybe some of that gunk is trapped in the carb prior to the filter install, never know. Just in case your carb rebuild missed something the mower will fire on starting fluid.
I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the key in the flywheel. It was ever so lightly sheared. A mere indent in the key. New key, ran like a champ. Good luck! Great video Mike! Lee
Checked that specifically in this video
@@CaptainKleeman
I think Lee is saying that the key looked fine at first glance but was still not good.
It really doesn’t take much to have that key be sheared enough to cause problems. Like 4-5 thousands of an inch is enough. Make life easy and start with a new key before you go deeper
@@John-hd5ex did you see that valve tappet was loose?
@@Crewsy correct, the sheer was so slight, I dismissed it at first. But it was the problem.
Not sure if anyone has given this 2 cents worth of knowledge yet... I had almost the same issue with a similar engine. For context I knew it was electrical by the way the way the mower quit running while I was using it. After testing continuity on just about every thing I found, the ignition switch to be bad. ( stay with me I know this is getting long ). I replaced that and found that it would crank but still not turn over.. Sooo I replaced the ignition coils and STILL it wouldn't start. I was wondering if the plugs were bad so I pulled out the left side plug and put it on a spark tester and BOOOOM the right Cylinder started right up. I gotta be honest I was just happy to hear the engine come to life. I tinkered around a bit more and found that it was the safety wire that is connected to the ignition coil on the cylinder that isn't firing. ( I would like to note that the opposite cylinder wouldn't fire until I took out the spark plug from the opposite side) . Somewhere between the coils it must be frayed and grounding out? Soooo I unplugged the saftey wire and like magic both cylinders fired right up. I am typing this from my John Deere LA 145 right now. I should probably find where that safety wire has gone bad but my yard looks like a hay field and honestly it hasn't messed with the performance at all so I am just gonna leave it alone. I am on 750 hours as of now and we are working on borrowed time as it is. I write this comment in hopes that someone sees it and it helps them. I watched so many videos and nobody had this solution. I would aslo like to note that @captainkleeman I like the cut of your jib and you got my patronage.
That shirt section of black wire that connects the two coils to the safety system has a small diode in it is what I was told. They go bad, and replacing the bat should fix it. That's what several people have told me and makes sense to me.
Nice work on those Deeres. I always thought those little rear engine ones were neat. On your L120, I pulled an almost identical critter next off the cylinder head if the LA135 I bought. I’m always amazed when I see an L/LA series with an intact hood, they always seem to be missing down here in the south. Looking forward to seeing you do the valves on the 120, I’ve got to do the same on mine and I’m pretty sure they’re the same engines.
Also, I might be saying something you’ve already found, but Deere is great with their online parts catalog for looking up parts. Even if I don’t get it from Deere, because that green and yellow box definitely carries a premium, having the P/N is really helpful.
You might have done this off camera but try a little starter fluid to completely eliminate the carb. I was chasing my tail in an old JD 335 and had cleaned and rebuilt the carb and it was getting fuel to the bowl but I could only get it to run on starter fluid. Ordered a $25 cheapo clone carb and it fired right up
There is a possibility that the exhaust is plugged up. You know the 4 stroke engine has
Intake, Compression, Power and Exhaust. Any of the 4 can cause a engine running problem. I do believe I saw a test with starting fluid to see if it would at least pop. I do really like the channel and keep up the great videos!
Don't forget on the 75, like other Kawasakis (and some Kohlers and other engines), you check oil level WITHOUT turning threading the dipstick in. There's a sticker with illustration on the engine. Usually if you just pull it out and it reads right at the top of Full, it's actually right at the Add mark when checked correctly.
They need to set a standard about this dipstick problem and make it common on all😊
Tanks
Think your right with your feeler gauges, every thing else checks out, the only other thing that might be an issue is your valves might need cleaning. Both mowers though look to be in good condition, they look like they are all there. Your like me, in my workshop I have a place for everything, only sometimes the places aren't always their!🤗😂
I've been waiting for you to get back on the trade up series to fund other projects.
It's right up there with what Darren Mustie1 does.
He's lucky that in his area people are allowed to leave free piles roadside for him and others to pick up, fix, sell and fund parts from.
Plus yard sales, repair swaps for stuff to fix and flip.
Many people can purchase equipment but fail to understand that everything needs maintenance to remain viable to keep operating up to date. I purchased a new vehicle and keep the maintenance up to date. At the 360,000 mile marker all I have spent for maintenance was grease, oil, air filters, tires, and prestone plus two batteries. I wanted to shoot for 500,000 miles but black ice put an end to the Blazer. I have always been well aware to the value of keeping maintenance up to date. You explain what a mower needed to keep the equipment maintenance up to date. 👍🏼
You always get my attention by the stuff you work on. I love repairing small equipment like you. Keep the great videos coming, enjoy watching.
Been my experience with those mowers is they will not start without choke. Also, when checking compression, have the throttle open all the way.
Seems ,ike the OHV engines run lean enough that they need the choke even when warm.
One thing about returning machines to good working order is the the process of discovery and learning. Fun to watch you working out what is wrong - fearless Captain Kleenman who never gives up.
Love me an excellent backyard mechanic video interspersed with just enough snark to have me laughing. Keep ‘em coming Captain.
I see that you are mechanical minded and have a lot of common sense. Love it
I have never had good luck with twin cylinder Briggs and Stratton engines coils and carburetors good luck captain great video
Those GX75’s are excellent little mowers. Lately me and my dad have been restoring old Swisher Big-Mows.
I think it'll be handy!
Every flat surface in my shop is full of something. Once a year I or when I get in the mood I clean up.
🤣🤣 I need to start putting sloped surfaces on things
You are progressing well and learning. Good troubleshooting taking place on both of these machines. We appreciate the content.
Great video. WOW! that black hose that they used for fuel line is water hose. you have two good mowers there. i think that you are right about the valves needing adjusting. :)
Enjoyed watching and listening to you trouble shooting the mower issues, thanks for the ride along sir.
Carbs always get me sppoked. I find it hard to put them back together correctly. Sometimes I draw a little sketch when I take them aprt. Then I have something to help me when I find an extra screw leftover. I did the same when I had a Gunsmith Shop a while ago. All parts of a rifle were laid out on a clean white towel in the order I took them apart. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy ! As they say !
You are so fortunate to have all these knowledgeable people offering their experienced suggestions. Good luck👍
I'm glad that diaphragm fuel pump didn't need prime, or at least the starter was enough to get it primed. Last summer I had one that the starter wasn't generating enough pressure to do it. I squirted gas into the intake with a syringe to get the engine going and keep it going long enough to get the pump primed.
Those are both great mowers! I'm betting you are on a good track with the valve lash settings. I would also see if it runs on brake/carb clean (the flammable stuff) since it is much easier to ignite than gas. That will give you an idea if the issue is weak spark, or if it will run at all. When you tested for spark, was it a bright blue spark like on the smaller mower? If its yellow, likely the spark is too weak to do its job.
Not an engine person, but the compression seemed high for a small engine, that would (to me) indicate valves not gapped right
@@ianh9772 You need nothing less then 120 on most engine to run most low end are 150 psi. You should be within 10 to 20 pounds on each side as well.
Common problem with the twin Briggs engine is valve lash
I suggest checking the choke position and what position the throttle has to be in for starting.
Check for plugged exhaust .
Hey captain hope you have a wonderful and blessed day today....keep up the great content 😁😁😁
Pretty relevant to a situation I just experienced with a small motorbike engine. Had fuel and okay compression not great. Spark plug was sparking so I ruled that out early. Adjusted valves no good. Replaced piston rings and head gasket. Got the compression up but it still wouldn’t start. Tried everything I could think of twice over a period of 3 months.
Turned out to be the spark plug. The old one was sparking but obviously not well enough for it to fire. Changed it out. Started straight away. Lesson learned. Start simple and don’t trust a visual spark test.
Thanks from Australia love the content.
I would suggest getting emery cloth sanding flywheel a little. And resetting the coil gap sometimes it will still spark and make you think it’s enough spark when it isn’t. Had same problem on one I had. Don’t remember the gap setting though.
I like to wash things before I work on them. Good work.
Valve setting’ my first step on any mower engine.😊
yep that is why the fuel pump does not work, crankcase pressure/suction operates it
My boys Craftsman mower has the same engine in it, went through same problem with fuel pump pressure hose being bad and having to replace all the fuel lines as the old ones broke down and clogged up the carb. In the end had to mess with the valve lash and after that she worked great. Would definitely say you're headed in the right direction there. Best of luck Capt. Look forward to the next one, keep up the great work my man 😁 👍
If the valve lash was off enough to keep it from running, you wouldn't have compression. That looks like a Kawasaki engine. Those had some coil and ignition module problems. The coil could cause the ignition module to be out of time. Check on YoTube for John Deere with Kawasaki engine. A friend had one that the dealer couldn't fix.
It's a BS intek,. You can still have compression and valves be out
You’ve gone to parts I’ve never been in for this video. I appreciate all your thought processes. I’m not sure what you missed. Seems like you covered all the bases.👍
Wow that is a gully washer washing the Subaru, LOL. I wish they still made small riding mowers like that with just a single blade. It would be far more practical for my yard than the 2 bladed rider I have now. So many trees in my yard. Makes using a full size double bladed rider a pain in the butt. That was some really sketchy weather whipping them trees around. Glad you had the common sense to stay out of the woods. 👍
Definitely worth pulling the flywheel off to check for even a slight offset. How do you know fuel is getting to the cylinders? Pull the plugs and put gas in the cylinders. If it tries to start, look at the jets in the carb.
Awesome video again. Thank you for putting a smile on my face this Sunday morning!
High speed Captain,getting the jobs knocked out. 👍🐝🌞
👍👍👍💙💛❤MI-A PLACUT CUM AI LUAT MASINA LA INTRBARI.FOARTE INSTRUCTIV SI AMUZANT, CAPTAIN KLEEMAN ,PROFESORUL.💙💛❤👍👍👍
You have compression on both side the do not need adjustment, it sounds like the plugs maybe firing under compression, I have new that where bad right out box.
You're completely random and crazy. I like that in you. 2nd, I would never pressure wash the mower. I don't own one. Carry on!
Thanks for the tips. Although my problem was wiring your video got me looking in places I hadn't looked. I found what looked like a frayed wire and one completely broken off and about 2" of it missing! I was able to remove the connector, solder on two extension wires then crimp them back the their sources. Started right up!
Love watching you play with machinery great information good learning tool for people keep it up cheers Jill Australia 💕🐨
We had a rear engine like that when I was a kid so much fun playing in the mud.
Just because you have spark with the plug outside of the engine doesn’t mean you have spark under compression. Only way to test for a spark strong enough to fire under compression is with a spark jump tester. You can get one at any parts store for 8/10 bucks.
Put a little gas or starting fluid in the intake and see if it will start. IF it runs then you have carb problems. IF not you have more problems. Valve adjustment will not hurt anything.
Find yourself a 12 volt spark plug cleaner. They work great and save tons of money on buying new spark plugs. I got mine from JC whitney 30 years ago and still using it. Thanks for the videos
13:05 🤣🤣 Humorous way of saying "I need to put my tools where they belong, so my work bench isn't a catch all for everything."
I prime the carb every Spring to keep from grinding on the starter.
On your spacer gauges, hubby said a sheet of paper is .005, put enough sheets together for your gap will get you close enough to start.
Not sure what engines people are talking about when they keep saying “compression is good so it can’t be the valves”.
If the exhaust rockers are as loose as they seem then compression would still be okay even if the exhaust valve doesn’t open but with no exhaust the the fuel/air mix can’t enter because of……science.
However I think the problem is the blinker fluid level switch. 😉
Exactly,. The exhaust could literally be missing the push rod and still have good compression. The good news is it helps me weed out the "good" advice 🤣
Same trouble with gt235 saw a video said check electric control board under dash . If jump started usually gets fried .
At least the Subie got a wash…. Another fascinating video Mike
I love how you pre address the “should do it this way” comments 😂
Lol
hello mike its is randy and your video is cool & super cool & lawn decking paint , thanks friends randy
I would take the flywheel off and check the key. I think it's bent but not sheared. That's my commit that you asked for.
Captain goes Baja-ing!!! Chelsea shaking her head watching you😂👍🇺🇸
Another entertaining AND educational video from Capt. K!!!!!
Always enjoy your wit and you were entertaining ways. I was about to comment with some advice on small engine repair. But I figured that you are probably done with it by the time this video came out and why not let you learn the same way I did always better do-it-yourself and you will learn the best way.👍👍🥇
Thanks for the laugh Mike. Keep smilin
"Check THAT off the list boys!" 🤣 That's my kind of check list.
Way you don't like cleaning anything that You work on before hand it's lots easyer to work to see and nice and clean your tools would be clean place where you work would be CLEAN clean place HAPPY place and happy WORK.
Some newer mowers have a compression release on the engine that kicks in when you are starting it but it disengages when the engine is turning fast enough. I watched a video where a guy had that problem.
Easily tested, simply place hand over I take to lower the pressure so the engine can turn over. 👍
Mike check the magneto insert in the flywheel if its rusty sand paper it your fire isn't going to be hot enough if its dirty.
Glad your keeping the little guy, those are nice machines
26:52 "look I got a pond, I got a pond'... Did Dirt Perfect put that in for you? seems a bit shallow, he might have cheaped out on the dam!
That is your vacuum hose that makes your fuel pump operate without the vacuum hose. It won't pump gas
Nice vid Mike !!! Your on the right track. Process of Elimination. 👍👍 I'm working on rebuilding my loader and putting it on my Bolens 1476 the case I had it on was a bit small. Just got to make a mounting bracket to run it off the front pto !!! Love your channel CPT 👍👍👍👍
Yea, I cranked mine last yr and slung a few critters. lol
Well Played.....always enjoy!!
Any new mower that will not run. Check oil, check fuel, pull air filter, shoot starter fluid into air horn, try to start. If it pops and runs for a second you have fuel trouble. With this simple process you have eliminated spark, valve, timing, compression and a hole lot of time.
If it works for you, then that's what matters
I have no idea what the problem is on the L120, I'm not that good on sorting that type of problem out !!! 😬🤷♂️🤦♂️
I will leave it to those who know, I am always appreciative of the work you put in on your videos.
The passing shower left you a wheelwash for you to use, how fortunate you had just the mower to test it out !!! 😂
Trouble shooting what a great game ❤ have a great Sunday
My husband said there is a cheap way to check cam lobe by covering air intake with your hand when starting. If it starts but revs down when you take your hand away it has a bad lobe.
thank you for a very educational video.
the solenoid in the carb bowl, turns fuel delivery off when shutting down as a fix for pulling fuel into hot cylinder causing backfires, its actually an anti- backfiring vale