thank you you have saved me a lot of time, I'm in the UK and when I got towed to the shop ( like you said no noisy drive shaft or bearing noise working one minute gone the next) the mechanic said the shaft is broken. Getting parts here in the UK for American cars means ordering parts for the garage as apart from common items disc's pads etc no one holds them.I was about to order the drive shaft then I came across your video which showed it was the bearing support that had broken. When I said to the mechanic you mean the bearing support shaft I got yeah I guess thats what it is so thank you again for the video Uncle Mark
Glad you appreciated the struggles, Shane. And you are right! As you said, so many don't show that, & when the viewer trys, they find out it was not as easy as shown!
I just replaced mine today. A 2011 Grand Caravan. There is a heat shield on the back of the power steering pump. It sticks down just enough so that the mount will not pass and let the axle line up to slide in. Save yourself some time and just remove the shield. 3 bolts, 13 mm straight (not offset) gear wrench works. You can reach them while at the side of the vehicle. However, installing 2 of the bolts are more easily done by reaching up from behind the engine cradle where the exhaust passes down. Once this is off, mount will pass and let the axle slide right in. Note, the bearing mount is shaped different from the one shown in this video. Also, I separated the knuckle from the strut. This gives much more room to remove the CV axle and then the intermediate axle. The CV axle separated easily and went back together without any more force than a push. I was able to replace the seal at the trans as it is a typical seal that you pry out. I used my seal installer and had a piece of 1.5 round stock that I used as a hammer. There is not enough room to use even a small hammer. Using the round stock it was heavy enough and all lined up along the line of the axle. Popped right in. Lastly, don't be short on jacking the vehicle. Get it up, give yourself room. Just be safe about it. Hope this is helpful.
@@unclemarksdiyauto No. It is the shape of the shield and how it is mounted. The bearing support is a different shape than shown in the video. There is no way to get it past that shield. It is simple enough to take it off and put it back on. The shield is in the way because on the block is a casting that juts out about 3/4" square so you can't just slide the bearing support past it without removing the shield. It's just the way the 2011 version is made.
@@EliseandDanchannel Ah, good to know. This was on a 2010 model. I will have to keep this in mind and do an updated version of the video for the newer models.
This exact part left me stranded a year & a half ago on the side of the road w/o warning. 2017 Grand Caravan GT w/ 153 thousand miles at time of failure, cost me $800.00 to replace at a garage. My suggestion is, if you think yours is original or aged, replace it before it breaks down leaving you stranded in the side of the road. This happened on a Sunday, early morning about a half hour away from home.
when i need eye protection i think of this cartoon character Goggles Paesano ......that shaft put up a good fight but you gotter in the end.....another good video
Just did this myself on my 2010 caravan. I replaced the bearing only, it cost me $20 as opposed to the whole shaft for ~$500 at NAPA . As someone else in the comments mentioned, it is a 6206 bearing. I got one at a local tractor dealer. I also found it much easier to just remove the 2 bolts in the strut instead of unbolting the ball joint and tie rod. A pickle fork worked great to separate the axle from the shaft.
Next time I plan to source a bearing as well. As for the 2 bolts on the strut, if put back exactly, all is good. Those bolts are camber alignment bolts. If not put back exactly in the same positions, it will affect the alignment. I just didn't want to chance it since the tires have been evenly wearing perfect. Thanks for helping others save some money by listing the bearing number, mustardbackpack.
@@unclemarksdiyauto Ah good to know. I just replaced the struts, that's when I noticed that bearing was gone, so any alignment changes had already been made 😁
So true...your garage has more space, but there are small lifts that would raise a vehicle 3 or 4 feet off the ground that would work in my tiny garage. Would make projects so much easier!
I replaced the bearing. (6206-2RS a middle of the road tolerance code like C3 is fine - Amazon), The outer mount drove off fine, had to grind and split the inner race (was able to leave the shield intact) . Do not drive the end of the shaft as it will distort the splines and snap clip slot - trial fit to axel before install. A 1 1/4" (or was it 1 1/2 ?) pipe, 4 or 5 inches long worked for a driver.
I saved the shaft. Was thinking of looking for a bearing too! Must be able to replace if resourceful! Will have to do a video on that later! Thanks for the update, Peter!
Nice video, thanks you. I got a question, because im lifting same model i was wondering if is posible to adapt a diff drop Kit in this van, what do you think?
Mental note, test fit outer axle to new intermediate shaft while out of car to see if it needs lube to join the two pieces together. I see the spin on oil filter so which is this, a 3.8 or 4.0 engine? Good video. Happy Motoring.
I don't know what the book time would be, and only the passenger's side has this axle shaft between the trans and the passenger cv joint. The driver's side cv joint is long enough to reach the transaxle (transmission)
a viewer named @mustardbackpack did his 2010 caravan replacing the bearing only, it cost he $20. He said it is a 6206 bearing. I got one at a local tractor dealer. Hope this helps, Anthony!
@@anthonybattaglia5126 Hope it helps. I think next time I want to go this route too. Let me know how it went. You can always pop me a email. (Address in my about section of the channel)
I have opened many of these seals to add grease when they are older and make noises on idler pulley wheels. This dust cover seals back up like new again. Just be careful prying it off and making sure it is flat when it goes back in.
@@Gallito4995 Everyone is open to their opinion. I do appreciate if those that claim to know better have their own videos to back them up. (Pretty much all of them never uploaded a video, just saying).
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🔽 Check out other videos in the Grand Caravan series! 🔽
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thank you you have saved me a lot of time, I'm in the UK and when I got towed to the shop ( like you said no noisy drive shaft or bearing noise working one minute gone the next) the mechanic said the shaft is broken. Getting parts here in the UK for American cars means ordering parts for the garage as apart from common items disc's pads etc no one holds them.I was about to order the drive shaft then I came across your video which showed it was the bearing support that had broken. When I said to the mechanic you mean the bearing support shaft I got yeah I guess thats what it is so thank you again for the video Uncle Mark
@@JohnMackenzieInverness Glad the video was of help. A big hello fro Manitoba, Canada, John.
I love the real application quality of the video. To many tubers fast forward or leave out their struggles do your not ready for them great job
Glad you appreciated the struggles, Shane. And you are right! As you said, so many don't show that, & when the viewer trys, they find out it was not as easy as shown!
I just replaced mine today. A 2011 Grand Caravan. There is a heat shield on the back of the power steering pump. It sticks down just enough so that the mount will not pass and let the axle line up to slide in. Save yourself some time and just remove the shield. 3 bolts, 13 mm straight (not offset) gear wrench works. You can reach them while at the side of the vehicle. However, installing 2 of the bolts are more easily done by reaching up from behind the engine cradle where the exhaust passes down. Once this is off, mount will pass and let the axle slide right in.
Note, the bearing mount is shaped different from the one shown in this video. Also, I separated the knuckle from the strut. This gives much more room to remove the CV axle and then the intermediate axle. The CV axle separated easily and went back together without any more force than a push.
I was able to replace the seal at the trans as it is a typical seal that you pry out. I used my seal installer and had a piece of 1.5 round stock that I used as a hammer. There is not enough room to use even a small hammer. Using the round stock it was heavy enough and all lined up along the line of the axle. Popped right in.
Lastly, don't be short on jacking the vehicle. Get it up, give yourself room. Just be safe about it.
Hope this is helpful.
Is the shield bent? Do you have a broken motor mount that has the engine tilted so shield is hanging lower?
@@unclemarksdiyauto No. It is the shape of the shield and how it is mounted. The bearing support is a different shape than shown in the video. There is no way to get it past that shield. It is simple enough to take it off and put it back on.
The shield is in the way because on the block is a casting that juts out about 3/4" square so you can't just slide the bearing support past it without removing the shield.
It's just the way the 2011 version is made.
@@EliseandDanchannel Ah, good to know. This was on a 2010 model. I will have to keep this in mind and do an updated version of the video for the newer models.
This exact part left me stranded a year & a half ago on the side of the road w/o warning.
2017 Grand Caravan GT w/ 153 thousand miles at time of failure, cost me $800.00 to replace at a garage.
My suggestion is, if you think yours is original or aged, replace it before it breaks down leaving you stranded in the side of the road.
This happened on a Sunday, early morning about a half hour away from home.
@@bulbman7080 Good suggestion!
when i need eye protection i think of this cartoon character Goggles Paesano ......that shaft put up a good fight but you gotter in the end.....another good video
Just did this myself on my 2010 caravan. I replaced the bearing only, it cost me $20 as opposed to the whole shaft for ~$500 at NAPA . As someone else in the comments mentioned, it is a 6206 bearing. I got one at a local tractor dealer. I also found it much easier to just remove the 2 bolts in the strut instead of unbolting the ball joint and tie rod. A pickle fork worked great to separate the axle from the shaft.
Next time I plan to source a bearing as well. As for the 2 bolts on the strut, if put back exactly, all is good. Those bolts are camber alignment bolts. If not put back exactly in the same positions, it will affect the alignment. I just didn't want to chance it since the tires have been evenly wearing perfect. Thanks for helping others save some money by listing the bearing number, mustardbackpack.
@@unclemarksdiyauto Ah good to know. I just replaced the struts, that's when I noticed that bearing was gone, so any alignment changes had already been made 😁
@@mustardbackpack Ah, good! I was doing something on our van when I too noticed this bearing gone. Glad I noticed before something worst happened.
Good video! Looks like we could both use a lift in our garages.
So true...your garage has more space, but there are small lifts that would raise a vehicle 3 or 4 feet off the ground that would work in my tiny garage. Would make projects so much easier!
I replaced the bearing. (6206-2RS a middle of the road tolerance code like C3 is fine - Amazon), The outer mount drove off fine, had to grind and split the inner race (was able to leave the shield intact) . Do not drive the end of the shaft as it will distort the splines and snap clip slot - trial fit to axel before install. A 1 1/4" (or was it 1 1/2 ?) pipe, 4 or 5 inches long worked for a driver.
I saved the shaft. Was thinking of looking for a bearing too! Must be able to replace if resourceful! Will have to do a video on that later! Thanks for the update, Peter!
What year was that for? Its a different part for the 2008 - 2010 vs 2011 - 2020
@@mustardbackpack I did it on a 2011 and a 2012. Don't know about the pre 2011.
You don’t have to put the transmission in neutral, just move the cv axle or the brake disc.
Nice video, thanks you.
I got a question, because im lifting same model i was wondering if is posible to adapt a diff drop Kit in this van, what do you think?
I have no idea. Never tried such a thing.
Mental note, test fit outer axle to new intermediate shaft while out of car to see if it needs lube to join the two pieces together.
I see the spin on oil filter so which is this, a 3.8 or 4.0 engine?
Good video. Happy Motoring.
This is the 4.0 in a 2010. Been a great engine for the last 10 years we have owned it.
@@unclemarksdiyauto Wonder why they stop making them.
@@mostlymoparih5682 my guess is emissions. This has tons of power, but fuel economy not as good as the 3.6 that are used in the newer vans.
Personally id leave the jack up with the jack stand especially when hammering and shaking the vehicle as jack stands can fail too. Safety first
Great idea! Thanks!
What’s the book labor time on this job ? And is the the passenger side
I don't know what the book time would be, and only the passenger's side has this axle shaft between the trans and the passenger cv joint. The driver's side cv joint is long enough to reach the transaxle (transmission)
Around an hour and a half if I remember correctly
Do you know the dimensions of the bearing...attempting to order just the bearing?
a viewer named @mustardbackpack did his 2010 caravan replacing the bearing only, it cost he $20. He said it is a 6206 bearing. I got one at a local tractor dealer. Hope this helps, Anthony!
@@unclemarksdiyauto Thank you very much!!!
@@anthonybattaglia5126 Hope it helps. I think next time I want to go this route too. Let me know how it went. You can always pop me a email. (Address in my about section of the channel)
Well this different in my 2012 grand caravan
On the passenger's side? I just did a 2015 just the outer cv and it did have the axle shaft there.
Anyone know what the part number for that bearing and seal is?
It is sold only as a complete bearing & shaft.
@@unclemarksdiyauto ok thanks. Mine has a lot of play so I'm guessing bearing is shot
@@CoBrAChiCKeN948 The bearing was completely missing on ours. Bought ours through Rockauto. (Not a sponsor)
@@unclemarksdiyauto I'm pricing them out, but doesn't look cheap(Canada)
@@CoBrAChiCKeN948 paid about $200 CAD including shipping. Thought Dodge wanted around $400-500?
I have question
You can send me a email. Address is in the about section Hilario.
Big mistake, taking off that seal. If the bearing are seal is because is greased.
Which seal did I take off? Do you know what time in the video?
At 20:30 you broke the seal... look at it now lol
I have opened many of these seals to add grease when they are older and make noises on idler pulley wheels. This dust cover seals back up like new again. Just be careful prying it off and making sure it is flat when it goes back in.
Why didnt you remove the new axle you made it so much harder lol
I didn't want to wreck the nut on the end of the CV joint. I didn't have another new one. (one time use)
Terrible.i wouldn't let him work on my wheel barrow
I showed you all the issues you could have. You will thank me if it goes as crazy as this one did, Robin.
Ur so rude, he’s trying to help us
@@Gallito4995 Everyone is open to their opinion. I do appreciate if those that claim to know better have their own videos to back them up. (Pretty much all of them never uploaded a video, just saying).