Never knew that. Now I know (at least one reason) why some are easy and some are not. Thanks for the tip and the education. Been changing CV axles 16 years and never knew.
You actually might have found something no one knows til now. I remember 30 years ago taking front axle off an ATV, I pulled and pulled, banged and banged the axle wouldn't come off, so I chained one side to wall, hooked come-along to axle and other wall, something was goin to move, I brought come-along to full pressure then BANG!!!! The axle flew off and took part of spline with it...... Then on other axle, I clamped slide hammer on again, still frustrated from first side and re-thinking at same time of why so difficult, I started banging slide hammer, after two strong hits, nothing, then for some reason I happen to rotated the axle a bit, then another strong bang and the axle flew off so fast I didn't know what happen, so your story makes sense 30 years later..........
Thank you for the useful information. I’m not a professional mechanic. I just turned wrenches for a hobby but this information will stick with me forever.
Finally, someone producing quality, informative information. Exactly what I look for. Someone that knows what they are doing without that blanket blank music. The music is soooo distracting. When I look for information the last thing I want is a dog and pony show. Thanks for your efforts.
I have done many more complicated things to my cars and those of family. With every job that I saved quite a bit of money I would buy a tool or two. Sometimes the job required a new tool so would add that tool to the mix. However, I always shied away from doing the CV axles. A place back home took the factory ones off and rebuilt the joint and installed for $90 in 1990. That is $212 in today’s money. It was a no-brainer. I had been scared to have those two issues: 1) shaft won’t release on wheel end 2) won’t release on tranny end 3) Bonus issue: won’t insert back into tranny This video and another made my first attempt for me now at an older age a good experience. At the hub end it came out super easy and I mean like butter. At the tranny it would not come out with the pry bar. A lift may have given me the angle I needed to get more leverage. I rented a hammer puller for the job and still nothing. I did the quarter turns you and another RUclipsr recommended and BINGO, on the second or third quarter turn it came off easily with the puller. Great tips. Good job. Tomorrow will get to the other side. Hope to not get a new surprise there. Thanks
RESPECT from KENYA 🙏🙏🙏hank you sir.....ive seen mechanics hammering in my cv axles and it didnt feel right... they need to visit you sir for schooling... THANK you sir 🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤
Pretty sure this helped me today. I've been battling a CV axle for a while. I was a couple of hours at it today before I seriously thought it might be time to give up on it. I found this video and decided to give the advice a try.. It still required repeatedly beating the hell out of it with vice grips and a slide hammer, but rotating the axle 90 degrees a few times seemed to be the answer. Once I found the right orientation, it came off in three hits. I also used the tip for orienting the retainer as described and the new axle went right in with no difficulty.
wow ! more great info! , that 1/4 turn , rotate , like the words ot the end.. rear brakes...simple... clean car ! , here in ohio though....rust, @#$!! salt , a Whole different story !!, yes , i wanna go south where all ur nice stuff dont rot away !! keep those videos coming !! thanx!!
Thanks for this great little tip Kenny. I'm in the middle of a CV joint replacement as we speak so this has come at exactly the right time. It's obvious - once someone points it out to you. While I was aware that turning the whole joint during removal to align the clip inside can help by finding the sweet spot where the clip just falls right, I hadn't thought of the replacement procedure you pointed out. That's why they pay the pros the big bucks and I just get to take six times as long on my family cars with much higher blood pressure to boot!
How about packing grease in the circlip groove on assembly to center the clip? That has worked for me. Thanks for the idea of rotating the axle on disassembly.
Awesome, same car, 2005 Kia Sedona, I just could not get the passenger side one out no matter how hard I hammered, I even put a come-along on it to the wall and all it did was drag the minivan. Finally got it out with big hammer and custom made steel plate. Twisted pin inside!
I took a black rubber bungee cable and wrapped it around the cb axle and then hooked the ends to the knuckle where it was pulling on the cb axle …then took the end and turned it till it found the right spot it wanted and popped it out…easy…on a 2005 trailblazer…after trying to use the pet bar method without it even slightly budging…,so instead of fighting it……
Thank you for tip on c-clip position for sliding out and sliding in. I got it out within 15 minutes after watching your video. I have been struggling to find a way get the driver side axle out for the past two days on my odyssey 2007. I used 15 inch pry bar bought from Walmart and a 15oz hammer. I turned the wheel little by little on every attempt. In 4th attempt I got that loose. I sprayed lubricant around the rusted shaft - not sure this played any role. I will folllow the your tip on c-clip orientation on placing the new axle back in.
Just did about 5 cv axels. The little C Clip is 100% everything. Prove it to yourself, take that 0:35 clip off with a mechanics hook pic and watch it slide into place with one finger.
PRO TIP- make your own puller so easy and you already have the parts to do it. Cut the boot- remove the grease - put the axle back in and now you can slam back and forth as hard as you want to get it out. Don’t need to mess with crowbar and hammer that slips off 9 times out of ten especially when you have a super small space to work - and you get way more power you can slam that thing with everything you have - of it doesn’t work turn the housing a little and slam away, turn housing and reparation till it flies out and you land on your butt with happiness.
I had a few Ford Escorts and every one of those axles were hard to get off. One of them i spent a couple days playing with every kind of prying technique, even making custom prying tools i could twist with a ratchet wrench. I finally had to fabricate a tool that was three- sided that i could clamp over he transaxle end and jerk with two small chains evenly. Three good jerks and they popped out. The clips needed a quick snap that was totally straight and even to get the clips to go in. Pushing them in was a snap, getting them out was a nightmare.
great tip , i remember 1 time on a ford focus they sent me a drive axle that was a titch longer 1/4 inch >>? didnt know there was even such a thing . well after 15 mins farting around not getting it to seat i google it and ended up having to order the correct one . always good videos kenny !! makes my morning coffee's taste better
As a 40+ year mechanic, I see this quite often that the previous tec slammed on the axle dry. Therfore rust and dirt gets in there and makes them extremely difficult to remove. I always grease the splines before installation #1 to make sure the lock ring releases for the next tech, but also because cv axles free float with suspension movement, if they are dry they'll bind up and cause early bearing failure and cv axle failure as well costing the customer or the shop. And I hate comebacks! So I just don't do things improperly. Better to do it right the first time, than end up eating the repair in hopes of beating the clock.
Great knowledge. Does the clip have to be in the upright position for all cars? I have a hyundai sonata I'm sure it's the same exact thing. I'm actually doing my axels today
@paulrakis Sorry for the late response. I just walked in the door from work. I find it works best on all vehicles with the opening in the 12 o'clock position. Keep wrenching! Kenny
Service data on my 07 Kia Rio says to have the clip opening facing down (not up) - wonder if either down or up works, just not sideways - never had an issue installing facing down - also helps to apply oil to splines and seal
I would add for further clarification that it is the upper (top) lip of the clip rests on the 12...i tried for 10 minutes to rest both ends on the spline at 11 and 1 o'clock with the clip opening centered at 12...it's incredible that this is just some kind of folk knowledge for a freaking ford economy car every kid in his garage will trey and fix.
@blondegirlsezthis8798 Thanks for the additional note. I should probably add that to the video. Thanks for watching & taking the time to drop a detailed comment. I appreciate you. Keep wrenching! Kenny
Sometimes axles would go in easy, sometimes not. Now I know why! Thanks for the great tip, just used it a week ago (saw your other video) and what do you know this one came up as well.
I plan to break into the wheel well tomorrow. I’ll be by a couple auto parts stores. I’m going to break into it little by little and by a tool or two at a time until I get into it and do it like so.
I've seen other YT videos that say for axles with the retainer clip on the actual axle, if you have the opening at 12:00, it will hang down more than if opening at 6:00 and be harder to insert. Therefore, the recommend opening at 6:00 position. Can you comment?
Question. Looking at a Toyota manual for my Scion......for the section on installing the CV/Axle half-shaft....it says, as you enter the trans, the statement I see is " install clip with open-side down". Seems to mimic your idea but the opening is then at 6:00 o'clock and not 12 o'clock. Could this be "same" as long as you're not at 3 or 9 o'clock?...as both 3 or 9 o'clock would have the clip "less-centered".
I prefer 12 o'clock because at 6 o'clock the effect of the click can overhang the edge of the splines & Gove you a head ache going back together. At least, that has been my experience. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
@@WrenchingWithKenny ...thanks for your kind and quick answer but I don't really visualize what you're saying. You say 6 o'clock results in the clip overhanging the splines....hmm.....wouldn't 12 o'clock result in the same....the only difference being where the overhang occurs ?????
@@davidh2550 ...great follow-up. Mimics the Toyota manual suggestion. Thanks !!! In addition.....it helps to swab a small dab of grease on the clip....this helps keep it "centered" on the splined-shaft too, and eases the insertion process.
Imo, if a clip needs to be done this way the clip is expanded out too far. Clips should never be expanded beyond the bevel of the splines. If they are they can be removed and crimped back into position to fit tighter... I've done it multiple times for this very issue.
But that taper isn't just at the bottom. Isn't it tapered all the way around? So shouldn't it self centered regardless of position of clip? Also interesting is that I've seen quite a few youtube videos that say to put the clip at the 6 o'clock position. And I believe Toyota specifies 6 o'clock position for clip when installing.
they all say 6oclock position this is the only guy I've seen do it, it's not a trick it's common knowledge, regardless where it's at gravity will hold it down. TRQs official install states to put it at 6oclock mark
Why not see where is the clip in the trans seal and put the cv axle clip to the same position and push it? Is the same thing you are doing, so you don't have to move the clip in the trans. -- Remember, we need to move the cv axles while we push the inner cv axle out from the trans. in this way what we are doing is looking for the right spark or position to remove it from trans. -- Other way is check where the clip is positioned when we remove the axle from the trans, and just adjust the clip according and push it. Easy right?
![Kumamoto Masters Japan 2024 | Gregoria Mariska Tunjung (INA) [5] vs. Akane Yamaguchi (JPN) [2] | F](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EIjZybhsWqA/mqdefault.jpg)
This is one of those things that is actually common sense but is so easy to overlook, very good tip.
Never knew that. Now I know (at least one reason) why some are easy and some are not. Thanks for the tip and the education. Been changing CV axles 16 years and never knew.
Good stuff. These little tricks take years to learn. Thanks for sharing 👍
You actually might have found something no one knows til now. I remember 30 years ago taking front axle off an ATV, I pulled and pulled, banged and banged the axle wouldn't come off, so I chained one side to wall, hooked come-along to axle and other wall, something was goin to move, I brought come-along to full pressure then BANG!!!! The axle flew off and took part of spline with it......
Then on other axle, I clamped slide hammer on again, still frustrated from first side and re-thinking at same time of why so difficult, I started banging slide hammer, after two strong hits, nothing, then for some reason I happen to rotated the axle a bit, then another strong bang and the axle flew off so fast I didn't know what happen, so your story makes sense 30 years later..........
Excellent tip. Ordinary people would never guess that. Good video.
Thank you for the useful information. I’m not a professional mechanic. I just turned wrenches for a hobby but this information will stick with me forever.
Finally, someone producing quality, informative information. Exactly what I look for. Someone that knows what they are doing without that blanket blank music. The music is soooo distracting. When I look for information the last thing I want is a dog and pony show. Thanks for your efforts.
40 years in the trade and I'm still learning tricks of the trade. Thanks for sharing.
I have done many more complicated things to my cars and those of family. With every job that I saved quite a bit of money I would buy a tool or two. Sometimes the job required a new tool so would add that tool to the mix. However, I always shied away from doing the CV axles. A place back home took the factory ones off and rebuilt the joint and installed for $90 in 1990. That is $212 in today’s money. It was a no-brainer. I had been scared to have those two issues:
1) shaft won’t release on wheel end
2) won’t release on tranny end
3) Bonus issue: won’t insert back into tranny
This video and another made my first attempt for me now at an older age a good experience. At the hub end it came out super easy and I mean like butter. At the tranny it would not come out with the pry bar. A lift may have given me the angle I needed to get more leverage. I rented a hammer puller for the job and still nothing. I did the quarter turns you and another RUclipsr recommended and BINGO, on the second or third quarter turn it came off easily with the puller. Great tips. Good job. Tomorrow will get to the other side. Hope to not get a new surprise there. Thanks
Now I can't even put a socket on my impact, without doing this to its cir-clip! Great video Kenny.
RESPECT from KENYA 🙏🙏🙏hank you sir.....ive seen mechanics hammering in my cv axles and it didnt feel right... they need to visit you sir for schooling... THANK you sir 🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤
Thank you, my friend! I hope you are well. Thanks for watching 🔧
Love learning new tricks. I was in the hammer it in club, will be more careful now.
I am so greatful - couldn't get the outer CV joint back on the shaft on my WD21 Pathfinder. Your tip is priceless!
@TRiToN219 Thanks for watching & letting me know I was able to help you. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and experience. Made my job a lot easier.
Those little tips are priceless. I may never have to use it, but if I ever do, it'll be worth a million bucks. Thanks!
Thank you for your kind words. Keep wrenching 🔧
That's a great tip, Kenny! I wouldn't have thought of that. Thanks for sharing!
Outstanding observations, makes sense too. Thanks for the tips. Cheers from Down Under.
Very well explained. This important point saves a lot of time and eliminates stress. I enjoyed your lecture. Well done 👏.
Pretty sure this helped me today. I've been battling a CV axle for a while. I was a couple of hours at it today before I seriously thought it might be time to give up on it. I found this video and decided to give the advice a try.. It still required repeatedly beating the hell out of it with vice grips and a slide hammer, but rotating the axle 90 degrees a few times seemed to be the answer. Once I found the right orientation, it came off in three hits. I also used the tip for orienting the retainer as described and the new axle went right in with no difficulty.
I'm about to do a replacement, and I think you might have saved me a lot of headaches.
Kenny, thanks for the tip. Was not aware of this. Will save a lot of DIYs a BIG headache. Keep up the great videos.
wow ! more great info! , that 1/4 turn , rotate , like the words ot the end.. rear brakes...simple... clean car ! , here in ohio though....rust, @#$!! salt , a Whole different story !!, yes , i wanna go south where all ur nice stuff dont rot away !! keep those videos coming !! thanx!!
Right?! Those northeast cars are rough. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
The ring trick saved me. I thought that my splines were rusted together. Thanks
I'm so glad I could help. Thanks for watching & leaving a comment. Keep wrenching! Kenny
Great tool, your mind,with the knowledge you hold ,& experience. Thank you. 🔧
Thanks for this great little tip Kenny. I'm in the middle of a CV joint replacement as we speak so this has come at exactly the right time. It's obvious - once someone points it out to you. While I was aware that turning the whole joint during removal to align the clip inside can help by finding the sweet spot where the clip just falls right, I hadn't thought of the replacement procedure you pointed out. That's why they pay the pros the big bucks and I just get to take six times as long on my family cars with much higher blood pressure to boot!
This is the best tip I’ve ever seen. Thank you.
Excellent tip. I never had changed a cv axle before but when I need to I hope this tip comes to mind.
Yessir.... i struggled with everything you said. Dodge Magnum awd 05. Given me the blues. Once it stop raining, Im trying this. Thanks
Thank you for the great information, I myself have removed and replaced several CV shafts and at times yes they have been a pain.
Good tip! I have also packed the groove with brake lube/dielectric grease. Seems to help with moisture and centering the clip.
I do this method it works great keeping the clip centered up.
I take a little grease and put it around the clip to hold it steady
Excellent tip and advice about the 12 oclock position. Just doing my car and it worked for us. Thank you!
Got a left side CV axle giving me trouble. Earned my sub. I’m gonna try this
Just done this following advice given. My brand new CV axle popped out while driving ...
Thank you for your professional advice and tip. Keep up the good work
Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
Hey here’s a quick fix that worked for me today! I simply took the ring off of my old one which was still is great condition and it went on first try!
What a great demonstration and explanation!!!
Great tip and great video!
Thanks for the video, I've been fighting the cv axle on my daily and this helps a ton!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching the channel & keep wrenching 🔧
Most excellent tip and presentation good sir. Thank you.
You learn something everyday. So did I. Thanks. Grest explanation.
Good info ..have struggled with axles sometimes never sure why !! Now i know ..thanks ...
Glad to hear. Thanks for watching 🔧
How about packing grease in the circlip groove on assembly to center the clip? That has worked for me. Thanks for the idea of rotating the axle on disassembly.
Awesome, same car, 2005 Kia Sedona, I just could not get the passenger side one out no matter how hard I hammered, I even put a come-along on it to the wall and all it did was drag the minivan. Finally got it out with big hammer and custom made steel plate. Twisted pin inside!
Thank you! My transmission is slipping after replacing CV Axle seal and boot,
and this may be the cause!
I took a black rubber bungee cable and wrapped it around the cb axle and then hooked the ends to the knuckle where it was pulling on the cb axle …then took the end and turned it till it found the right spot it wanted and popped it out…easy…on a 2005 trailblazer…after trying to use the pet bar method without it even slightly budging…,so instead of fighting it……
Thank you for the good tip have a blessed day! 😊
Thank you for tip on c-clip position for sliding out and sliding in. I got it out within 15 minutes after watching your video. I have been struggling to find a way get the driver side axle out for the past two days on my odyssey 2007. I used 15 inch pry bar bought from Walmart and a 15oz hammer. I turned the wheel little by little on every attempt. In 4th attempt I got that loose. I sprayed lubricant around the rusted shaft - not sure this played any role. I will folllow the your tip on c-clip orientation on placing the new axle back in.
I hope all goes well. Keep wrenching 🔧
I was installing a CV shaft in an old Maxima. I had trouble with the clip, but it took me awhile to realize there were two splines to align.
Thanks for the tip, actually had a clip jam on me and it was a pain to deal with.
Great tip thank you. I appreciate the video. Thanks 🙏🏼
Just did about 5 cv axels. The little C Clip is 100% everything. Prove it to yourself, take that 0:35 clip off with a mechanics hook pic and watch it slide into place with one finger.
PRO TIP- make your own puller so easy and you already have the parts to do it. Cut the boot- remove the grease - put the axle back in and now you can slam back and forth as hard as you want to get it out. Don’t need to mess with crowbar and hammer that slips off 9 times out of ten especially when you have a super small space to work - and you get way more power you can slam that thing with everything you have - of it doesn’t work turn the housing a little and slam away, turn housing and reparation till it flies out and you land on your butt with happiness.
Can anyone explain why I didn't think of this all this time? Golden tip - well done sir.
I had a few Ford Escorts and every one of those axles were hard to get off. One of them i spent a couple days playing with every kind of prying technique, even making custom prying tools i could twist with a ratchet wrench. I finally had to fabricate a tool that was three- sided that i could clamp over he transaxle end and jerk with two small chains evenly.
Three good jerks and they popped out. The clips needed a quick snap that was totally straight and even to get the clips to go in.
Pushing them in was a snap, getting them out was a nightmare.
great tip , i remember 1 time on a ford focus they sent me a drive axle that was a titch longer 1/4 inch >>? didnt know there was even such a thing . well after 15 mins farting around not getting it to seat i google it and ended up having to order the correct one . always good videos kenny !! makes my morning coffee's taste better
Excellent information thank you very much
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
The best advise in this video ever. Thank you.
Now that is a damn good tip sir! Thank you 👍
Thanks for tip. Nice attitude ego free. Thank you. 👍🏻
As a 40+ year mechanic, I see this quite often that the previous tec slammed on the axle dry. Therfore rust and dirt gets in there and makes them extremely difficult to remove. I always grease the splines before installation #1 to make sure the lock ring releases for the next tech, but also because cv axles free float with suspension movement, if they are dry they'll bind up and cause early bearing failure and cv axle failure as well costing the customer or the shop. And I hate comebacks! So I just don't do things improperly. Better to do it right the first time, than end up eating the repair in hopes of beating the clock.
I always put greese around and under the clip to keep it centered up on the shaft.
Good tip man, that could definitely save a headache for sure!
Thanks for the tip most of the 90s ck left stub shafts could be impossible
EXCELLENT TIP. Thanks
Thnks man i like the 1/4 turn tip.
Another Great advice tip. Thank you!!
Another excellent video. Thanks!
Great knowledge. Does the clip have to be in the upright position for all cars? I have a hyundai sonata I'm sure it's the same exact thing. I'm actually doing my axels today
@paulrakis Sorry for the late response. I just walked in the door from work. I find it works best on all vehicles with the opening in the 12 o'clock position. Keep wrenching! Kenny
put grease on ring and center it grease will hold it centered
Golden tip right there...thank you. :)
Happy to help! Keep wrenching 🔧
Thank you sir. I’m going to give it a shot
Excellent descriptions!
excellent tip !!!!!!! lots of thanks !!!!
Service data on my 07 Kia Rio says to have the clip opening facing down (not up) - wonder if either down or up works, just not sideways - never had an issue installing facing down - also helps to apply oil to splines and seal
Nice to know. I think I may need to replace a CV axle on my Fusion in the not too distant future.
Great tip! Something to watch for
Thank you for that, great tip!
Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
Im glad i watched this before pulling it out and in
good example of the small things you only learn from experience....or from someone else with experience and a youtube channel
I would add for further clarification that it is the upper (top) lip of the clip rests on the 12...i tried for 10 minutes to rest both ends on the spline at 11 and 1 o'clock with the clip opening centered at 12...it's incredible that this is just some kind of folk knowledge for a freaking ford economy car every kid in his garage will trey and fix.
@blondegirlsezthis8798 Thanks for the additional note. I should probably add that to the video. Thanks for watching & taking the time to drop a detailed comment. I appreciate you. Keep wrenching! Kenny
Great tip my friend!
Sometimes axles would go in easy, sometimes not. Now I know why! Thanks for the great tip, just used it a week ago (saw your other video) and what do you know this one came up as well.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
Also before assembly make sure to lube the clip and splines with ATF.
Great tip, guilty. lesson learned.
I plan to break into the wheel well tomorrow. I’ll be by a couple auto parts stores. I’m going to break into it little by little and by a tool or two at a time until I get into it and do it like so.
How did it go?
I always put it at 6 o’clock. Works better
Wow! Very helpful! Thanks.
tha k you i learned important thing here. you got rea hands onl golden experience not " class room theory"
@p0k7lm I hope I was able to help you. Thanks for watching & leaving a comment. Keep wrenching! Kenny
Ty for the heads up. 👍
I've seen other YT videos that say for axles with the retainer clip on the actual axle, if you have the opening at 12:00, it will hang down more than if opening at 6:00 and be harder to insert. Therefore, the recommend opening at 6:00 position. Can you comment?
Question. Looking at a Toyota manual for my Scion......for the section on installing the CV/Axle half-shaft....it says, as you enter the trans, the statement I see is " install clip with open-side down". Seems to mimic your idea but the opening is then at 6:00 o'clock and not 12 o'clock. Could this be "same" as long as you're not at 3 or 9 o'clock?...as both 3 or 9 o'clock would have the clip "less-centered".
I prefer 12 o'clock because at 6 o'clock the effect of the click can overhang the edge of the splines & Gove you a head ache going back together. At least, that has been my experience. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
@@WrenchingWithKenny ...thanks for your kind and quick answer but I don't really visualize what you're saying. You say 6 o'clock results in the clip overhanging the splines....hmm.....wouldn't 12 o'clock result in the same....the only difference being where the overhang occurs ?????
I just did my Toyota. 6 o clock was the only way it'd go in
@@davidh2550 ...great follow-up. Mimics the Toyota manual suggestion. Thanks !!! In addition.....it helps to swab a small dab of grease on the clip....this helps keep it "centered" on the splined-shaft too, and eases the insertion process.
GREAT TIP MY MAN
Imo, if a clip needs to be done this way the clip is expanded out too far. Clips should never be expanded beyond the bevel of the splines. If they are they can be removed and crimped back into position to fit tighter... I've done it multiple times for this very issue.
But that taper isn't just at the bottom. Isn't it tapered all the way around? So shouldn't it self centered regardless of position of clip? Also interesting is that I've seen quite a few youtube videos that say to put the clip at the 6 o'clock position. And I believe Toyota specifies 6 o'clock position for clip when installing.
they all say 6oclock position this is the only guy I've seen do it, it's not a trick it's common knowledge, regardless where it's at gravity will hold it down. TRQs official install states to put it at 6oclock mark
Nice explaining. 😊
Why not see where is the clip in the trans seal and put the cv axle clip to the same position and push it? Is the same thing you are doing, so you don't have to move the clip in the trans.
-- Remember, we need to move the cv axles while we push the inner cv axle out from the trans. in this way what we are doing is looking for the right spark or position to remove it from trans.
-- Other way is check where the clip is positioned when we remove the axle from the trans, and just adjust the clip according and push it. Easy right?
Again, thank you very much.
Getting ready to do CV's on my 2007 Sante Fe. How do you rotate the axel? Obviously by hand but in neutral?
Great tip!