Love when you guys do these heavy deep dive mechanical videos! The funny videos are great but these deep dive technical videos are what puts Donut in the S tier of youtubers. Keep up the good work guys!
I second! These vids are so helpful for guys like myself that have limited mechanic knowledge. Always enjoy the vids and always picking something up from them
He actually has a degree in mechanical engineering AND a master's in biomedical engineering! He knows his stuff! Him and the editors doing graphics are incredible at explaining things
Jerry and Zack bring so much to the channel, but I never see anyone compliment Justin on how well he stares longingly at the camera while others talk. This is what I come here for.
It's great to see a video that isn't a 'something needs to chill out' or 'we bought a bunch of random stuff' video. These educational videos or vehicle history videos have always been my favorite. Hi vs Lo vids are great too!
The cheap vs expense tools are great too in my opinion. Never gonna buy expensive tools now as a 17 year old who just bought a 350 it helps a lot because I don’t have anyone else to teach me.
Discovered Donut because of Science Garage and now I just keep on watching every video that I can. Probably my top 3 series now are HiLow, Money Pit, and Tool Party
I think there are a few mistakes. Detonation (knock) happens when pockets of air/fuel mixture burns BEFORE the spark plug fires. A lean condition can cause detonation. The piston hitting the cylinder wall is called piston slap. Two separate issues.
Technically knock can occur before or after the spark plug fires, it's not when the mixture is ignited but how the mixture burns. In normal conditions the fuel air mixture burns, with detonation its closer to an explosion.
Knock is any preignition event, where the mix ignited before spark wavefront. There are two types, knock caused by the pressure spike due to spark, creating more than one wavefront, and knock due to hotspots, creating wavefronts before the spark event entirely. Detonation occurs after the spark, not necessarily after TDC, wherein the pressure spike from the initial wavefront gives the mix enough energy to all react at once rather than in a smooth wavefront.
As a mechanic that does investigation work this episode was excellent. I think it makes a great point that there are many things that Do It Yourselfers might overlook and not take into consideration when installing parts or modifying their vehicles. Location is a big thing.
@@JuniorJunison Better being resleeved at this point considering its open deck nature. But they're swapping them out for v8's apparently. However, being turboed; i doubt it will address the issue until they relocate the turbo and give it an external oil cooler and possibly even a dry-sump system. This engine was designed for N/A purposes; the water jacket and cylinder wall design reflect that. They need heaps of cooling mods if they want to actually keep this thing living longer under induction methods it wasn't designed for. Sure they're people claiming to have 600hp cars that "Track fine and reliably" until you see that the only track they went to was a drag strip. A 15-second pass is way different to a Rev-Hanging turbo car around a track.
@@oneplumpboi5317 im with you on dry sump oiling system's ( and to me about the same costs 2022-back ( to unknown date as this wasn't all ways that way but it's changed for the better ) to setup or less than some wizardry's wet setup that still can kill ), as my new engine for my BBM/440/hemi isn't using a wet sump system as i believe there engine killers its probably ok-ish for a stationary plumed/level-set generator but moving car and more so a higher HP one nope 👎 more so with sticky/gripy tires vary quick way to kill a engine plus on a hemi it's the same size oil change of 8+Q and the pan is to easy to rupture as it hangs way down
I'm 0:36 seconds into this and I have all the proof I need. It was Nolan. Yep, from the right seat, definitely was him lol. Seriously though, I love that you are diving into the failure so we can all learn.
I was right, lol. No seriously though it takes a team and I don't blame him. I also thought you meant operator error. Crunched for time pushes issues like this. Root cause was poor heat management + lean condition, but it's more fun to say it was Nolan. I know I learned a lot from this, so thank you!
Really loved this new format, very educational, easy to understand graphics and very well explained! I'm a very klutz dude and been a long time i didn't see a so we'll explained video, wouldn't be surprised to see these used in schools, and I hope so too. Keep it up guys! Speedy recovery to low car! 💙
I miss these type of videos with Jeremiah going deep into explanations. And then the pictures and animated engine parts are a great help too. I’m a visual learner so when you both show and tell us what your talking about it makes it 100x better. More if these please!!
As a DE owner myself, a turbo in a DE is a recipe for disaster. These blocks require so much work to handle boost reliably you're better off with a swap. The internals just can't handle it. There's a reason Nissan didn't offer them with a turbo.
If you do it right, they're fairly reliable boosted. I've been on 8 PSI of boost for about a year with a ~40k mile DE and had absolutely no issues. I have a buddy that's been tuned at the same PSI on E85 for longer and he hasn't had any issues as well. All depends on whether or not your tuner did a good job, your engine's condition in the first place, and how hard/often you push the car.
@@Gborohooo rather have the stock N/A set up that I can drive the wheels off of than a boosted piece I have to baby to not blow but that’s just one man’s opinion
@@danielwatson5595 why would anyone want to boost it anyway, it's a bigass V6, not a 2.0 four banger, there's already torque and power, i don't get why someone would want to slap a turbo in that thing. get it tuned and add a few parts but i feel like it's plenty good as an n/a engine, especially if you're gonna go on the track. it's not as "slow" as the old n/a z32 300zx anyway.
@@oliviersavard8676 It's a bigass V6 in a heavy ass coupe too though lol and VQs don't respond well to bolt ons. Most DEs don't even break 300 wheel with thousands of dollars in bolt ons and a tune. I'm not arguing that boosted is better than NA. Hell, I want to swap an NA LS in mine because I don't like the complications that boosting a factory NA car adds. I'm just saying that the kit in the video is relatively inexpensive when compared to other kits, can be made very reliable with some minor upgrades, and can make good power reliably if installed and tuned correctly.
Hr and vhr swaps are bolt in (and just require a simple swap harness) and will make easy 300+ whp with bolt ons/tune. Vhr can hit 350+ with that on e85. And still na reliability.
More like this please. I wanna hear and see you guys think man. I like the jokes and stuff but when you guys get into the meat and potatoes, I think it's what sets you guys apart from others. You guys mix knowledge, humor, and great editing and graphics to help bring it all together. There are other channels that go deeper into detail with what they're actually doing but it isn't supplemented by the great editing and presentation. Please teach us more Jeremiah!
1. Jeremiah is amazing. More of this. 2. Because of Donut, I am building my own car from scratch. 3. I have never even owned a wrench before. 4. Pray for me.
7:30 as a general rule, I would not exclude the valve sealing as a reason for complete lack of compression. I've seen an engine ingest a bolt out of the throttle valve that completely mangled a single valve on a single cylinder and caused pretty much this exact pattern of compression.
I follow a few engine builders and one did a valve seat leak down test... dude plucked out a piece of his hair and closed the valve on it and the thing would not hold any compression with it between the valve and the seat! Crazy tight tolerances these have
@@mattgarkus2489 not necessarily. If starter is still connected, it's much quicker to do a compression test vs a leak down test.. also with that, you can do a hot and cold compression check, either narrowing it down to a piston ring, of valve seat...
@@joelfrancisco3798 well not really. hot vs cold is again only going to tell you compression and if the rings are worn, not how much pressure and vacuum the piston skirts can make. if course i am a 2 stroke engine builder, but principals are the same. i see 2 strokes with seemingly good compression, but wont idle at all or well because the piston skirts are completely shot. so the operator sits there fiddling with the ignition and carbs to try to get it to idle, but of course it wont no matter what he does.
Just makes me feel so much better because the compression check and possible clues Jerry talked about helped me rule out some possible situations with my car burning a little bit of oil. So happy it helped me rule out that the bottom end of my motor is probably good. Thanks Jerry and Donut Media!
This is a great video. So often when something like this happens the video goes “we have an issue” cut to “this was the problem, we fixed it.” It’s great that you not only mention the issues at every step but explain why it could be each thing and what to look for. Makes it great as a guide for someone who has a similar issue!
@@angel.dc5752 yeah Hi car was getting a modern crate motor LS while low car was getting a used junkyard LS, if you want I can go back and check which specific ones they were going to use
That's exactly what happens when you boost an engine that wasn't boosted from the factory without gapping the rings. It's a necessity. A boosted engine needs a bigger ring gap. Otherwise the rings expand and have nowhere to go so it breaks the ringlands on the piston.
100% my thinking too... Didn't watch anything on the build, but if it was n/a originally and they ran a "decent" amount of boost without opening the gaps up, that'll definitely do it!
Came here looking for this comment. I neither watched the original build but as soon as I saw this I thought ring gaps. Rings have expanded more with nowhere to go due to the added heat from turbo. It’s possible the piston wasn’t completely melted until after all of this. I think the rings expanding with nowhere to go has dug into the cylinder wall/took out the ring lands and the friction from this melted the piston maybe
Not gapping the rings didn't cause this failure. It can cause pistons to break, but this piston melted due to excessive combustion temps. Preignition probably killed this piston. Not ring failure.
This was not a ring land problem. This was excessive heat issue in that cylinder, the piston melted everything else was fine. Maybe that bank was running leaner than the other, especially with that shitty manifold in that rev 9 kit. But most likely the injector on that cylinder could have just not been spraying the amount of fuel it was supposed to. That s why you always get your injectors flow matched.
Except it didn’t break the Ringland. It melted it. Too much heat in the cylinder, there was detonation and a lean condition. You’re not wrong, but you can run boost on many stock bottom ends reliably if you keep the boost levels down.
this video gave so much more information on engines than so many other channel videos combined. thnx donut. keep it up. I wish u guys da best. and grow bigger
I don't think they're actually blaming Nolan. Their time crunches influenced decisions. HiLo is kind of a group project so I don't think Nolan was forcing through cheap parts against everyone's advice. This is something that happens when you upgrade stuff on the cheap without fabricating solutions, stuff breaks. It's kind of perfect for the series.
Totally agree mate! Nolan was working with one of the most talented mechanic on the show (Aaron)! If both couldn't do things well, then the reason is mostly out of their hands (time crunch and crappy part which are the point of HiLow) 😉 We don't care, we love Nolan ⚡️
When Jerry first started, I remember everyone being pretty harsh in the comments, mainly saying that he needed to find his own persona, etc... and I agreed. But now, I absolutely love his videos...Just enough of a goof to keep it light hearted, while also being very clear and articulate, while often covering some very wordy topics (eg. the Every Engine Type Explained video). Keep up the good work Jeremiah!
Love this channel so damn much. The funny videos are always great, but these more technical videos put Donut in a league of its own. Jeremiah is probably my favorite addition to the team so far with all the engineering nerd shit I love so much. Also, REVIVE SCIENCE GARAGE.
Really enjoyed the editing style/general flow of this video, seems like you guys took a slightly different approach to all the other videos of seen. I really like the group dynamic you guys are using more and more I really enjoyed the episode, good work per usual guys!
My guess would be a cracked cylinder the way that smoke looked. Memories of my first car. Except in my case I pushed it too far and ended up blowing a hole through the entire engine after warping the shaft
My guess is maybe the ring gaps were too tight (it was an n/a motor originally), and that hole got a little hotter than the rest and failed first. Important to run a bit larger gap on a turbocharged engine (or any motor with a "power adder"), as the temp in the chamber and tops of the pistons get hotter, causing the gap in the ring to close up entirely until it has nowhere to "expand" to and it breaks the ring land on the piston.
I think you hit the nail on the head with one of the first things you said. That the turbo is sitting right next to that piston and they did NOT use a turbo blanket, the excessive heat helped cause the knock / pre-detonation which started the snake. Gotta use those BLANKETS bb! Another great vid, teardown, and explanation just thought you could have pounded home the necessity of a turbo blanket a little harder!
13:00 just want to clear up the large inaccuracy here. Detonation “knock” does not cause piston slap as shown and does not sound like rodknock. The piston should never move like shown in the graphic under any condition unless the cylinder wall and rings are severely worn, and if it did, you would likely see chatter marks on the cylinder wall upon teardown. Detonation (knock) does make noise but it’s not really that audible, and doesn’t occur at idle like the video of zach’s RB suggested. In a car with an exhaust system and the windows up you wouldn’t really be able to hear it at all, that’s why modern cars have knock sensors bolted to the block to detect it. If you CAN hear it it kinda sounds like your vacuuming up sand/rocks. (from my experience) High performance academy has a video of what detonation actually sounds like through the knock sensor AND videos on how to tune to correct for knock. if you’re interested i’d check it out, as they explain things like this on a high level for us to learn for free. Correctly explaining detonation is difficult to do, and the rest of the video seemed fairly accurate, so i just wanted to clear this up for anyone interested.
Exactly this. The noise is not caused by components physically knocking, it's just a very fast pressure rise due to compression ignition which resonates at the characteristic frequency of the bore. Sometimes you can kinda hear it, but it does get lost in all the other noise especially on rattly DI engines. I've watched a (very experienced) dyno operator tweak timing by listening to it through studio quality mic, eq and headphones and he was *well* within the limits a production knock control strategy would target.
Was gonna to comment something along this line, knock or ping is more of the engine detonation at the incorrect time, not caused by the actual spark timing but usually some afr issue. But certainly not the piston rocking back and forth
A lot of wrong info was presented in this video. Knock is from pockets of gas igniting before the spark event happens. Not a piston rocking around like it’s too small for the bore
I’m here from 3:07 and I recon it’s 100% an issue from one of the janky aftermarket bits from the car. I’m gonna go on a limb and it was the turbo, however I will see in 10 min.
When turbocharging or supercharging engines, you typically need to change or clearance the piston rings. As the rings heat up they expand. If you don't clearance them, the ends will touch each other and either bind that cylinder, break, or fold and break the piston.
not really, you can usually run 8-10 PSI on stock internals with a good tune unless the engine is made out of glass. of course if you want to make some real power, piston rings are only a small part of the whole engine that needs to be rebuilt to handle more boost. but if you're just running low boost, there's pretty much no reason to spend all that time on *just* piston rings. it'll be fine, and if you're going to take apart the engine, you might as well also send it to the machine shop, get some forged rods and pistons, and build that bottom end. then 15 PSI is nothing, the engine will eat that for breakfast and burp out flames
@@Chimera6297 yeah. "usually". But that REALLY depends on the motor. Might be close to "made of glass" with tight ring gaps, thin ring lands, high C/R, etc... I've seen 'em do that at 8 psi, and I've seen others make 900+ rwhp at 40psi. Not saying that was the cause in this case, but certainly wouldn't rule it out. Coulda been something stupid like an injector too. Wish we could get a better look at the damage!
Loved this video. I just took out my engine due to low compression. They seemed like normal numbers, but this specific engine (b20z) needs high compression. I did a wet compression test and each cylinder went from about 145 to 210. Im about to do my first engine tear down and I’m excited.
As everyone said. Please. Number everything. Pistons, rods, and their journals. Camshaft buckets and shims and caps (if applicable). * When Disassembling the MAIN JOURNALS, Remove THEM IN THE CORRECT ORDER TO NOT DAMAGE JOURNALS * I cannot stress how important tolerances are on Japanese engines. When the main journals are torqued down; they have a wobble effect torquing it down. There's a springing effect that puts tensions on bolts and mains. you don't want to remove the bearing bolts in the wrong order; risking slight stress/stretching of mains. When you re-assemble the engine you don't want to have a hard time remembering which shim meets what tolerance. Mess it up, and it will tick like crazy. Crankshafts are balanced based on weights set by each piston and conrod. You can't mix up the order without hurting harmonics. The main bearings and cam caps are the same. Each one is specifically bored at different tolerances and offsets, mix them up and you turn a 0.0001" into a 0.001" offset. risk damaging your cam or the bearing surfaces (Sometimes the camshafts "catch" on the offset lip and tear your cam caps straight away) Bolts should be labeled when disassembled (Maybe a labeled sandwich bag if you don't have tool compartments). I remember when I went blindly disassembling my first engine. Thankfully my memory served me right and I could reassemble it with ease. It's not that easy on other engines. The most anxious thing is when you reassemble an engine and have extra bolts and don't know what you missed.
@@bubferner2146 tha fuck is break in oil?? Change oil often for the first cupule of miles as there will be metal particles as the new parts break in and get seated.
I know you won't see this, especially because this video is so old, even though I have a super stock car, these kind of videos really make me re-think everytime I have a thought to put off an oil change as a non car enthusiast because I learn new reasons everytime on why it's so important, it's genuinely such a good thing you all do so thank you!
I’m so glad you guys did this video. I found it really interesting that you guys blew both engines when the forums always act like the z’s can handle boost no problem. Very informative about the many things you can do when installing a turbo to make it not blow up.
Really?? Most people I know would argue the opposite reliability goes out the window once you go FI with the VQ motors. These motors bend rods and pistons really quick if there is too much torque. The block itself can take a lot of power, but you can’t cut corners with these motors if you want to go forced induction.
Many vqs run much more boost with no issues. Mine is at 430hp with 0 issues at 170k miles. They didn't do enough research on the platforms and had shit fuel. Both kits should have been at a solid 400 hp with no issues. High car had horrible fuel setup. And low car had a poorly designed kit, poorly run oil return, probably why the turbo sized
Keeping a non-car guy like me riveted is no easy task. A brilliant mixture of simple yet in-depth, passionate yet palatable, and not once did a moron like me feel talked down to or in over my head. Big thanks.
God this was such a great video. Super interesting and explained in a way that was easy to understand without extensive explanations. Would love to see more like this
Something I've not seen commented on yet, shouldn't the ring gap have been increased with the turbo? Possible that the ring expanded too much and damaged the piston. Love the series keep up the cool builds!
And what exactly does this piston ring expand into because it’s pressed against the cylinder bore the whole time? If the rings expand to much they butt and grind a warped surface into the cylinder bore.
I don't necessarily think that it was the piston rings. If it was piston ring gap, it would be like someone dropped a ball bearing in the chamber. I am almost certain it was a hot spot on the piston causing it to melt. At 100,000+ miles, the ring gap would have increased by about .001~.003", actually helping the motor live. In my line of work I've seen this many times, it was classic case of hot spot, a spark knock nucleation site. Too much to write about here but, in short, hot spots easily happen around the edge of piston or on edges of carbon deposits. They act like tiny little glow plugs in the chamber. On the edge of a piston though, its like an oxy/acetylene torch. Once you get a a very tiny pool of molten metal, it oxidizes and spreads like cancer, turning everything into hot porage. So, this is why spark knock is scary.
@@thehouseofcha1nsaw_ You can tell it's melting damage because aluminum doesn't break with smooth edges, that piston melted for sure. I still doubt it was knock, it's too obvious when an engine is knocking for someone who knows anything to stay in it and knock it to death. I bet it just picked up a hot spot and melted the piston, plus the rest of the piston looked pretty clean which is rare for knock damage. I'll give Nolan the benefit of the doubt that he didn't stay in the throttle while the computer was pulling spark and he was down on power lol.
Loved the case file at the end. I thought it was a piston or piston ring failure due to a chunk of shredded turbo. Certainly didn't expect a MELTED piston! Damn Nolan
Blown oil seals on the turbo have a way of destroying diesel engines. Considering how long diesels have been using turbos, that's my best bet. The turbo actually sucks all of the oil out of the engine!
The thing with slapping a turbski on a NA block is you are now building a tune based around a compression ratio that was not designed for boost. This outcome is a gamble you take when turboing something that is NA, without internals.
Head gasket? Oil leak in the turbo and/or cylinder? Broken camshaft (not likely) Or perhaps the added pressure from the turbo blew the piston rings? (Wow, almost right, made the same mistake as Nolan tho, as in didn’t account for the added heat)
This is such an informative video! I love content like this. Get to learn a lot from videos like these. Great stuff at Donut Media. Production quality is top notch. The hosts are so engaging and fun to listen to. Jeremiah did amazing here. Keep em coming!
As a petrochemist I love when car owner send their engine oil samples to blame the oil supplier for a breakdown and most of the time it's just a bad setup in the car and they're always like, how it's possible? I do the setup by myself, I'll go to another lab. And I'm like, ok Mr. but don't forget pay the 1000$ for the test
Well when I seen cylinder one had no compression which means there’s a problem in either the piston or the ring I think the rings the problem but keep up the good work guys u guys make the best videos 100% the best crew on yt
I heard all 05-06 350Zs with a manual tranny had oil burning issues. I bought a new 06 with 2 miles on it. It burned 1.5 qts per 1k miles. They eventually replaced the engine under warranty. The new one burned about 1qt oil every 1k miles.
I remember watching the high vs low back when they came out and the dude who was the "mechanic" for low car kept using WD-40 as a lubricant. WD-40 Is a penetrant and should NEVER be the final lubricant for anything that needs lubricant. It's a rookie mistake. EDIT: I just found the episode, it was the one on fuel injectors. Lol car used WD-40 to lube the O-rings for their injectors. If those O-rings dry out they could allow air through which would make the car run lean and increase the heat that led to the piston failure.
@@guard13007 no, the dude made sure to say the part needed to be well lubricated and specifically said he was going to use WD-40 as the lubricant. I can't remember the episode but I remember it was something deep in the engine. Or are you saying they did things wrong on purpose because they're lo-car? Lo means low price, not low IQ. They should still do things right, just cheaply.
@@DanielJamesEgan Hit the nail on the head. There needs to be a PSA video for the majority of WD-40 users lol. It's even got it in the name "WaterDisplacement-40". It's a shame 'cos there are probably thousands of faults over the years that wouldn't have happened if they knew WD ain't lubricant.
My intrigue with Jerry is boundless. The way he explains things; his cadence, tone and emotion.... And dare I mention the way he without fail; mispronounces oil every time. I could let him mansplain the science of side mirror wipers for a Donut advertisement on incliment weather advisories for 30 seconds, and just have the most peachy keen day knowing I learned, and understood something! Swell job O-Ring team.
I think coolant got into the compression zone and it made it blew up Well, I was wrong but I just wanted to say that Donut are putting out REALLY great videos lately
Awesome episode as per usual, just one slight correction to avoid confusion in case someone is chasing problems and doesn't know the cylinder numbers in order on a VQ and which banks are 1 and 2. It was Cylinder 2 that failed on this car, not Cylinder 1 Cyl 1 is the first cylinder on bank 1, which in this cars case is the passenger side (Drivers side if right hand drive) So when you pull the head off bank 2 @11:52, the front cylinder is Cyl2, middle is Cyl 4 and the last one is Cyl 6 and not 1,3,5 as stated. Keep up the good work guys, looking forward to an update on this car.
2:58 I know little about the mechanical aspect of cars as I am a younger guy, but is there a chance part of the turbo broke off and found its way into where it shouldn't be? I've heard of this happening before with budget turbos, so this is just a guess.
Possibly, but I wanted to chip in and say that Turbonetics isn't a budget turbo in the same sense as an Ebay turbo. They're obviously not on the same level as a Garrett or Precision or Borg Warner or anything like that, but Turbonetics does make some fairly high-quality turbos.
@@toppiestrock3784 Yeah man! I have one of these kits and the rest of the kit comes with absolutely crap parts if you don't replace them (gaskets, piping, hardware, etc) so it's definitely surprising that it comes with a decent turbo. They also have a version that actually comes with a crappy ebay turbo too lol
Yes and no, you’d have to make a completely different oil circuit to make that work which is doable but not practical at all, much easier to change oil weight to adjust for temp difference. In reality the extra heat really should make much of a difference
3:08 Guess is the turbo delivered to much air into the engine and caused a destructive misfire that bent/broke a piston. Probably wrong but hey it is a guess from a non-mechanic that only knows the basics of car repairs :)
Not sure why knock was explained the way that it was… knock is detonation of the fuel/oxygen at the incorrect time in the sequence of timing events. Too much timing can cause it or to low of octane can cause it. For example….gasoline octane rating can be thought of as a resistance of knock the lower the octane the easier it is to ignite the higher the octane the harder it is to ignite…..to understand it you have to remember that the air/fuel mixture will ignite easier with higher compression (which they did with turbo) to fight detonation racers will use high octane fuel which in turn makes the air/fuel mixture (which is under higher compression for the example) harder to ignite and that helps fight knock/pre-detonation in the cylinder due to not enough octane and too much cylinder pressure
and they described the sound as the piston "rocking" back and forth. i suppose thats sort of correct, but its more like pushing the piston down or hitting it with a hammer as its trying to go up. i guess the end effect is the same. pre-ignition is also the same in effect, just that the actual ignition is out of time (too advanced making it run hot for the small amount of fuel).
13:08 that’s not what pre ignition is, it isn’t causing the piston to smack around lol, it’s the explosion of gas due to heat rather than a clean burn.
Engine pinging or knocking is caused by pre-combustion of the air fuel mixture, which is combustion before spark. The associated noise of pinging (which becomes knocking when it's more severe) is the pressure wave of combustion hitting the top of the piston while the piston is still moving up. This knocking can damage the piston by breaking the ring lands which looks like what happened to your engine. Combustion after spark doesn't even make sense because the spark has already set everything on fire. You are not hearing the piston rocking back and forth under high pressure and engine speed.
sounds like exactly what happened to my Genesis. i lost compression in the engine. they said it couldve been a timing belt/chain but after watching this i think the piston failure was more of a cause since it was only one cylinder with no psi
More videos like this please! The questioning mindset, and logical assessment as more and more information is gleaned is one of the harder parts of learning to be a decent mechanic.
The video was great for a guy who doesn't know anything about cars, problem was well explained, and graphics helped break it down for me to digest ty donut team u carry the auto industry
..and thats why you mount an aftermaket turbo underneath and at the back of the car, away from the engine; even with the parasitary losses of the longer piping entails you are better off....very sweet ,educacional video
Making my guess 6:18. Problem is ring failure most likely due to not having enough ring gap under boost combined with what I'm guessing is a higher milage car that had seen redline more than leisurely Sunday drives along with poor maintenance before the donut crew got it
the only thing I didn't like, was the suggestion that the heat radiating from the turbo housing over heated the 1 cylinder. Exhaust temps can easily get to 1400 degrees, but the housing temps will likely never exceed 300 degrees. If turbo housing outside temps got to 1000 degrees, overheating one cylinder would be the least of your worries.
As someone who works for Infiniti and very knowledgeable about the VQ motors, you actually lost cylinder 2. On the Nissan V6 engines bank 1 and cylinder 1 accordingly are on the drivers side of a RHD built vehicle. So cylinder 2 is actually the one that melted. These motors rarely ever have injector failures and when they do it's typically caused by an outside source like bad/dirty gas that plugs the injector. My guess is the age of the engine most likely caused the engine to fail. Older VQ's with higher mileage tend to let some oil past the rings. On top of that, cylinder 2 is the furthest fuel injector from the fuel supply so with the increased fuel demand cylinder 2 may have had a slight fuel starvation causing a lean condition in that cylinder alone.
Shoutouts to Nolan for sacrificing his dignity to get entertaining High Low episodes out on time
"Leave Nolan ALONE!! "
where did his 'beard' go though
@@HSS_yt Through the turbo
Kinda hoped Nolan and James switched roles in the Tacoma Hi-Low series.
@@dauf69 James deserves nothing but the best
Love when you guys do these heavy deep dive mechanical videos! The funny videos are great but these deep dive technical videos are what puts Donut in the S tier of youtubers. Keep up the good work guys!
Totally agree!
absolutely agreed, Jeremiah is goated
Even as a technical video, it's still very funny
ruclips.net/video/3lUp2C0pS_Y/видео.html
Finally it's here YES.
I second! These vids are so helpful for guys like myself that have limited mechanic knowledge. Always enjoy the vids and always picking something up from them
Jeremiah being all technical is a breath of fresh air! I like your funny videos, but these kinds of videos really hit the spot.
ruclips.net/video/3lUp2C0pS_Y/видео.html
Finally it's here YES.
He should tell Nolan that under Penal Code 22010 PC, it is illegal in California to make, import, sell, give away or even to possess nunchakus ! haha
He actually has a degree in mechanical engineering AND a master's in biomedical engineering! He knows his stuff!
Him and the editors doing graphics are incredible at explaining things
@@rickrolled3666 nope, its not.
Trueeeeee
Jerry and Zack bring so much to the channel, but I never see anyone compliment Justin on how well he stares longingly at the camera while others talk. This is what I come here for.
there was nothing more heartbreaking than watching it blow up after watching every episode of it being built
Facts!
But now we can see it rise from the ashes
Even its a low budget car. We still love how they built it
imagine being the ones who built it haha
Nolan should get a raise for being such a good sport by putting up with all this roasting
Ikr. Now he knows how it feels to be cylinder 1
I really hope that’s how he can put up with it 😂🤞#nolangetspaid
The fact that he was the one who screwed up the design in the first place should be enough to warrant some roasting
It's great to see a video that isn't a 'something needs to chill out' or 'we bought a bunch of random stuff' video. These educational videos or vehicle history videos have always been my favorite. Hi vs Lo vids are great too!
same here
The cheap vs expense tools are great too in my opinion. Never gonna buy expensive tools now as a 17 year old who just bought a 350 it helps a lot because I don’t have anyone else to teach me.
Discovered Donut because of Science Garage and now I just keep on watching every video that I can. Probably my top 3 series now are HiLow, Money Pit, and Tool Party
I think there are a few mistakes. Detonation (knock) happens when pockets of air/fuel mixture burns BEFORE the spark plug fires. A lean condition can cause detonation. The piston hitting the cylinder wall is called piston slap. Two separate issues.
What about W.A.P? Wet Ass Piston?
Technically knock can occur before or after the spark plug fires, it's not when the mixture is ignited but how the mixture burns. In normal conditions the fuel air mixture burns, with detonation its closer to an explosion.
Detonation is post tdc ignition. Pre ignition is before tdc.
Knock is any preignition event, where the mix ignited before spark wavefront. There are two types, knock caused by the pressure spike due to spark, creating more than one wavefront, and knock due to hotspots, creating wavefronts before the spark event entirely. Detonation occurs after the spark, not necessarily after TDC, wherein the pressure spike from the initial wavefront gives the mix enough energy to all react at once rather than in a smooth wavefront.
That’s what I’m saying, parts slapping around isn’t the same knock as air/fuel misignition?
Fixing the engine before swapping it to sell it for a good price while creating content for RUclips. Well played Donut Media.
Making money while making even more money 💰🫡… you gotta respect it😂
they make youtube content for living, so..
Pretty sure they're bringing it back for engine swaps
@@chefjamesmacinnis what are they bringing back? If it's the engine why tho? why bother fixing it now when you want to engine swap it... no offense
ruclips.net/video/3lUp2C0pS_Y/видео.html
Finally it's here YES.
As a mechanic that does investigation work this episode was excellent. I think it makes a great point that there are many things that Do It Yourselfers might overlook and not take into consideration when installing parts or modifying their vehicles. Location is a big thing.
Question, could this engine be saved? Like maybe by redoing the cylinder bore by either making it bigger or if it has sleeves to just replace them?
@@JuniorJunison I would say probably, definitely not going to be cheaper than just getting another engine though
@@JuniorJunison it's 100% repairable. I used to build off roaders with zzr1400 lumps and this was a party trick they used to love doing
@@JuniorJunison Better being resleeved at this point considering its open deck nature. But they're swapping them out for v8's apparently. However, being turboed; i doubt it will address the issue until they relocate the turbo and give it an external oil cooler and possibly even a dry-sump system.
This engine was designed for N/A purposes; the water jacket and cylinder wall design reflect that. They need heaps of cooling mods if they want to actually keep this thing living longer under induction methods it wasn't designed for.
Sure they're people claiming to have 600hp cars that "Track fine and reliably" until you see that the only track they went to was a drag strip. A 15-second pass is way different to a Rev-Hanging turbo car around a track.
@@oneplumpboi5317 im with you on dry sump oiling system's ( and to me about the same costs 2022-back ( to unknown date as this wasn't all ways that way but it's changed for the better ) to setup or less than some wizardry's wet setup that still can kill ), as my new engine for my BBM/440/hemi isn't using a wet sump system as i believe there engine killers its probably ok-ish for a stationary plumed/level-set generator but moving car and more so a higher HP one nope 👎 more so with sticky/gripy tires vary quick way to kill a engine plus on a hemi it's the same size oil change of 8+Q and the pan is to easy to rupture as it hangs way down
I'm 0:36 seconds into this and I have all the proof I need. It was Nolan. Yep, from the right seat, definitely was him lol. Seriously though, I love that you are diving into the failure so we can all learn.
Not Nolan per se, but definitely Nolan's bad luck.
I was right, lol. No seriously though it takes a team and I don't blame him. I also thought you meant operator error. Crunched for time pushes issues like this. Root cause was poor heat management + lean condition, but it's more fun to say it was Nolan. I know I learned a lot from this, so thank you!
It blew up because it's a crappy SUS vq French engine
Really loved this new format, very educational, easy to understand graphics and very well explained! I'm a very klutz dude and been a long time i didn't see a so we'll explained video, wouldn't be surprised to see these used in schools, and I hope so too. Keep it up guys! Speedy recovery to low car! 💙
I miss these type of videos with Jeremiah going deep into explanations. And then the pictures and animated engine parts are a great help too. I’m a visual learner so when you both show and tell us what your talking about it makes it 100x better. More if these please!!
Agreed if I can see a diagram or an animation like in this one it helps immensely for me learning what’s going on
As a DE owner myself, a turbo in a DE is a recipe for disaster. These blocks require so much work to handle boost reliably you're better off with a swap. The internals just can't handle it. There's a reason Nissan didn't offer them with a turbo.
If you do it right, they're fairly reliable boosted. I've been on 8 PSI of boost for about a year with a ~40k mile DE and had absolutely no issues. I have a buddy that's been tuned at the same PSI on E85 for longer and he hasn't had any issues as well. All depends on whether or not your tuner did a good job, your engine's condition in the first place, and how hard/often you push the car.
@@Gborohooo rather have the stock N/A set up that I can drive the wheels off of than a boosted piece I have to baby to not blow but that’s just one man’s opinion
@@danielwatson5595 why would anyone want to boost it anyway, it's a bigass V6, not a 2.0 four banger, there's already torque and power, i don't get why someone would want to slap a turbo in that thing. get it tuned and add a few parts but i feel like it's plenty good as an n/a engine, especially if you're gonna go on the track. it's not as "slow" as the old n/a z32 300zx anyway.
@@oliviersavard8676 It's a bigass V6 in a heavy ass coupe too though lol and VQs don't respond well to bolt ons. Most DEs don't even break 300 wheel with thousands of dollars in bolt ons and a tune. I'm not arguing that boosted is better than NA. Hell, I want to swap an NA LS in mine because I don't like the complications that boosting a factory NA car adds. I'm just saying that the kit in the video is relatively inexpensive when compared to other kits, can be made very reliable with some minor upgrades, and can make good power reliably if installed and tuned correctly.
Hr and vhr swaps are bolt in (and just require a simple swap harness) and will make easy 300+ whp with bolt ons/tune. Vhr can hit 350+ with that on e85. And still na reliability.
More like this please. I wanna hear and see you guys think man. I like the jokes and stuff but when you guys get into the meat and potatoes, I think it's what sets you guys apart from others. You guys mix knowledge, humor, and great editing and graphics to help bring it all together. There are other channels that go deeper into detail with what they're actually doing but it isn't supplemented by the great editing and presentation. Please teach us more Jeremiah!
gay.
Adam k 110% agree
couldn't agree more
i like your comment
Yes yes yes!
Jeremiah has become one of my fave hosts lately. Love him and Zach on Tool Party! Also stoked to see these Z's coming back for High Low!!
1. Jeremiah is amazing. More of this.
2. Because of Donut, I am building my own car from scratch.
3. I have never even owned a wrench before.
4. Pray for me.
Hey you got this. Just remember to ask professionals for advice if your not sure. Better to do things right once than wrong 3 times
May god give you patience, strength and lots of money to buy a replacement car🙏🏽
Start off easy maybe something that already has a turbo would be a good start
@@azharsyarawi LMAO
youll be fine as long as dont do something nolan would hahaha
Jeremiah is just an all around great presenter. Honestly such an asset to the channel
He's so much more comfortable now. I still watch the old B2B episodes and he was so much more reserved. Shouts to my fellow Mech Engineer
7:30 as a general rule, I would not exclude the valve sealing as a reason for complete lack of compression. I've seen an engine ingest a bolt out of the throttle valve that completely mangled a single valve on a single cylinder and caused pretty much this exact pattern of compression.
I follow a few engine builders and one did a valve seat leak down test... dude plucked out a piece of his hair and closed the valve on it and the thing would not hold any compression with it between the valve and the seat! Crazy tight tolerances these have
I've seen pistons which had the valve imbedded into them. Bad valve absolutely can lead to zero compression
leakdown tests are far more useful than the cheap compression tests they ran
@@mattgarkus2489 not necessarily. If starter is still connected, it's much quicker to do a compression test vs a leak down test.. also with that, you can do a hot and cold compression check, either narrowing it down to a piston ring, of valve seat...
@@joelfrancisco3798 well not really. hot vs cold is again only going to tell you compression and if the rings are worn, not how much pressure and vacuum the piston skirts can make. if course i am a 2 stroke engine builder, but principals are the same. i see 2 strokes with seemingly good compression, but wont idle at all or well because the piston skirts are completely shot. so the operator sits there fiddling with the ignition and carbs to try to get it to idle, but of course it wont no matter what he does.
Just makes me feel so much better because the compression check and possible clues Jerry talked about helped me rule out some possible situations with my car burning a little bit of oil. So happy it helped me rule out that the bottom end of my motor is probably good. Thanks Jerry and Donut Media!
This is a great video. So often when something like this happens the video goes “we have an issue” cut to “this was the problem, we fixed it.” It’s great that you not only mention the issues at every step but explain why it could be each thing and what to look for. Makes it great as a guide for someone who has a similar issue!
Cant wait for the new season! I absolutely think mechanical deep dives from donut are just the best thing on RUclips ✨
Hi Lo season 3 confirmed?
@@PublicBus09 yeah they're putting V8's in them, they mentioned it on past gas
@@torry5498 LS swap no?
@@angel.dc5752 yeah Hi car was getting a modern crate motor LS while low car was getting a used junkyard LS, if you want I can go back and check which specific ones they were going to use
That's exactly what happens when you boost an engine that wasn't boosted from the factory without gapping the rings. It's a necessity. A boosted engine needs a bigger ring gap. Otherwise the rings expand and have nowhere to go so it breaks the ringlands on the piston.
100% my thinking too... Didn't watch anything on the build, but if it was n/a originally and they ran a "decent" amount of boost without opening the gaps up, that'll definitely do it!
Came here looking for this comment. I neither watched the original build but as soon as I saw this I thought ring gaps. Rings have expanded more with nowhere to go due to the added heat from turbo. It’s possible the piston wasn’t completely melted until after all of this.
I think the rings expanding with nowhere to go has dug into the cylinder wall/took out the ring lands and the friction from this melted the piston maybe
Not gapping the rings didn't cause this failure. It can cause pistons to break, but this piston melted due to excessive combustion temps. Preignition probably killed this piston. Not ring failure.
This was not a ring land problem.
This was excessive heat issue in that cylinder, the piston melted everything else was fine.
Maybe that bank was running leaner than the other, especially with that shitty manifold in that rev 9 kit. But most likely the injector on that cylinder could have just not been spraying the amount of fuel it was supposed to.
That s why you always get your injectors flow matched.
Except it didn’t break the Ringland. It melted it. Too much heat in the cylinder, there was detonation and a lean condition. You’re not wrong, but you can run boost on many stock bottom ends reliably if you keep the boost levels down.
this video gave so much more information on engines than so many other channel videos combined. thnx donut. keep it up. I wish u guys da best. and grow bigger
Just realized y’all have a team to create helpful animations. Props to them.
You seriously just realized that there’s an entire team behind these videos..? Lmfao
Looks at the dude's user name. He literally a POS.
Also shoutout to the regular show noise reference in the intro haha
Jeez, sorry Nolan. They really outed you on this one. It's hard to meet deadlines with crappy parts - cut him a break man
Yeah I'm not down with the Nolan slander, that man is a treasure
I don't think they're actually blaming Nolan. Their time crunches influenced decisions. HiLo is kind of a group project so I don't think Nolan was forcing through cheap parts against everyone's advice. This is something that happens when you upgrade stuff on the cheap without fabricating solutions, stuff breaks. It's kind of perfect for the series.
Totally agree mate! Nolan was working with one of the most talented mechanic on the show (Aaron)! If both couldn't do things well, then the reason is mostly out of their hands (time crunch and crappy part which are the point of HiLow) 😉
We don't care, we love Nolan ⚡️
@@gabrielfestini nolans a baby.
@@jordynk6651 you're a baby
Now THIS is a video that gets me to instantly watch. Put more vids out like this. Also can't wait to see what you guys do with low car next!
the amount of knowledge I've learned from y'all is insane. could never thank y'all enough for it
When Jerry first started, I remember everyone being pretty harsh in the comments, mainly saying that he needed to find his own persona, etc... and I agreed. But now, I absolutely love his videos...Just enough of a goof to keep it light hearted, while also being very clear and articulate, while often covering some very wordy topics (eg. the Every Engine Type Explained video). Keep up the good work Jeremiah!
I remember everyone would dog him, now look at him! Balling everyday!
He still explains things incorrectly though. 13:00
@@polyscient how so?
preach
@@polyscienthow so
More of this, please. Would love to see all the guys work on their projects.
Love this channel so damn much. The funny videos are always great, but these more technical videos put Donut in a league of its own. Jeremiah is probably my favorite addition to the team so far with all the engineering nerd shit I love so much. Also, REVIVE SCIENCE GARAGE.
14:30 this made me laugh harder than i have in years. thank yall for what you do. a bunch of legends making legendary content.
Really enjoyed the editing style/general flow of this video, seems like you guys took a slightly different approach to all the other videos of seen. I really like the group dynamic you guys are using more and more I really enjoyed the episode, good work per usual guys!
My guess would be a cracked cylinder the way that smoke looked. Memories of my first car. Except in my case I pushed it too far and ended up blowing a hole through the entire engine after warping the shaft
Oh definitely when they started and it had that massive clunk one of the pistons/rods ain't attached anymore
My guess is maybe the ring gaps were too tight (it was an n/a motor originally), and that hole got a little hotter than the rest and failed first. Important to run a bit larger gap on a turbocharged engine (or any motor with a "power adder"), as the temp in the chamber and tops of the pistons get hotter, causing the gap in the ring to close up entirely until it has nowhere to "expand" to and it breaks the ring land on the piston.
@@billymanilli Tight rings can also pop the top off a piston too. Lol
@@saltysteel3996 Certainly! Can really wreck a lot of stuff!
I was thinking that or a head gasket but
Rest in peace Low-car, may you get top speed to car heaven
It's getting an LS so it'll be back on the road with a new* (used) and much stronger heart! 💪❤️
@@edim108 you also saw aaron's story? lmfao
Glad to see the breakdown of an engine
What an awesome "sequel" to HiLow. Loved this video and the thorough explanations. Keep up the good work Team Donut!!!
I think they're ls swapping
This is like a preseason teaser
day 1 of asking for an Up2Speed on the Ford Falcon i think its an awesome car with some cool history
Except in Argentina
Millennium Falcon? 🥺
best suggestion ever, would love to see the ford falcon on up2speed :)
I thought you were gonna say Up2Speed on Pumphrey's dad
also clapped out fiesta would be a fun shitbox
Wouldn't Low Car be the ultimate car for "if you can fix it, you can keep it"? :D
Is it even possible to fix it? Isn't the cylinder wall part of the block?
Nah, they said they're LS swapping them soon.
"If you can LS swap it, you can keep it"
Even in high gas times it's always logical to LS swap it.
@@alessandro9509 you would need to bore out the cylinders and use overbore pistons
I think you hit the nail on the head with one of the first things you said. That the turbo is sitting right next to that piston and they did NOT use a turbo blanket, the excessive heat helped cause the knock / pre-detonation which started the snake. Gotta use those BLANKETS bb! Another great vid, teardown, and explanation just thought you could have pounded home the necessity of a turbo blanket a little harder!
13:00 just want to clear up the large inaccuracy here.
Detonation “knock” does not cause piston slap as shown and does not sound like rodknock. The piston should never move like shown in the graphic under any condition unless the cylinder wall and rings are severely worn, and if it did, you would likely see chatter marks on the cylinder wall upon teardown.
Detonation (knock) does make noise but it’s not really that audible, and doesn’t occur at idle like the video of zach’s RB suggested. In a car with an exhaust system and the windows up you wouldn’t really be able to hear it at all, that’s why modern cars have knock sensors bolted to the block to detect it. If you CAN hear it it kinda sounds like your vacuuming up sand/rocks. (from my experience)
High performance academy has a video of what detonation actually sounds like through the knock sensor AND videos on how to tune to correct for knock. if you’re interested i’d check it out, as they explain things like this on a high level for us to learn for free.
Correctly explaining detonation is difficult to do, and the rest of the video seemed fairly accurate, so i just wanted to clear this up for anyone interested.
Exactly this. The noise is not caused by components physically knocking, it's just a very fast pressure rise due to compression ignition which resonates at the characteristic frequency of the bore. Sometimes you can kinda hear it, but it does get lost in all the other noise especially on rattly DI engines.
I've watched a (very experienced) dyno operator tweak timing by listening to it through studio quality mic, eq and headphones and he was *well* within the limits a production knock control strategy would target.
Thank you! My exact reaction when I heard it.
Was hoping somebody else picked up on that
Was gonna to comment something along this line, knock or ping is more of the engine detonation at the incorrect time, not caused by the actual spark timing but usually some afr issue. But certainly not the piston rocking back and forth
A lot of wrong info was presented in this video. Knock is from pockets of gas igniting before the spark event happens. Not a piston rocking around like it’s too small for the bore
Why? Cuz it saw how well the HI car was treated and caught a case of depression. Simple.
It was suicidal you mean?🤣
"Decompression"
The production quality on this video was spectacular. Super duper looking forward to Hi-Low Season 3!!
I’m here from 3:07 and I recon it’s 100% an issue from one of the janky aftermarket bits from the car. I’m gonna go on a limb and it was the turbo, however I will see in 10 min.
When turbocharging or supercharging engines, you typically need to change or clearance the piston rings. As the rings heat up they expand. If you don't clearance them, the ends will touch each other and either bind that cylinder, break, or fold and break the piston.
not really, you can usually run 8-10 PSI on stock internals with a good tune unless the engine is made out of glass.
of course if you want to make some real power, piston rings are only a small part of the whole engine that needs to be rebuilt to handle more boost.
but if you're just running low boost, there's pretty much no reason to spend all that time on *just* piston rings. it'll be fine, and if you're going to take apart the engine, you might as well also send it to the machine shop, get some forged rods and pistons, and build that bottom end. then 15 PSI is nothing, the engine will eat that for breakfast and burp out flames
i never see anyone on honda engines do that and they run fine on like 30 psi
Nitrous cars can have this happen as well.
@@Chimera6297 yeah. "usually". But that REALLY depends on the motor. Might be close to "made of glass" with tight ring gaps, thin ring lands, high C/R, etc... I've seen 'em do that at 8 psi, and I've seen others make 900+ rwhp at 40psi. Not saying that was the cause in this case, but certainly wouldn't rule it out. Coulda been something stupid like an injector too. Wish we could get a better look at the damage!
@@Chimera6297 what
This is why I cringe when I see people going the "lo-car" route on their cars.
Cheap, fast, reliable.
You can only pick two.
reliable and cheap turbo route?
@@jasonmartinez9545 on something that wasn't turbo before? Not likely.
Loved this video. I just took out my engine due to low compression. They seemed like normal numbers, but this specific engine (b20z) needs high compression. I did a wet compression test and each cylinder went from about 145 to 210. Im about to do my first engine tear down and I’m excited.
Sounds fun! Remember to store each bolt and nut well and categorized so you don't lose 'em or know what goes where!
Sounds like piston rings. If you rebuild it make sure to use break in oil for 400 miles, and do the proper procedure
As everyone said. Please. Number everything. Pistons, rods, and their journals. Camshaft buckets and shims and caps (if applicable).
* When Disassembling the MAIN JOURNALS, Remove THEM IN THE CORRECT ORDER TO NOT DAMAGE JOURNALS *
I cannot stress how important tolerances are on Japanese engines. When the main journals are torqued down; they have a wobble effect torquing it down. There's a springing effect that puts tensions on bolts and mains. you don't want to remove the bearing bolts in the wrong order; risking slight stress/stretching of mains.
When you re-assemble the engine you don't want to have a hard time remembering which shim meets what tolerance. Mess it up, and it will tick like crazy.
Crankshafts are balanced based on weights set by each piston and conrod. You can't mix up the order without hurting harmonics.
The main bearings and cam caps are the same. Each one is specifically bored at different tolerances and offsets, mix them up and you turn a 0.0001" into a 0.001" offset. risk damaging your cam or the bearing surfaces (Sometimes the camshafts "catch" on the offset lip and tear your cam caps straight away)
Bolts should be labeled when disassembled (Maybe a labeled sandwich bag if you don't have tool compartments). I remember when I went blindly disassembling my first engine. Thankfully my memory served me right and I could reassemble it with ease. It's not that easy on other engines.
The most anxious thing is when you reassemble an engine and have extra bolts and don't know what you missed.
@@bubferner2146 tha fuck is break in oil?? Change oil often for the first cupule of miles as there will be metal particles as the new parts break in and get seated.
Godspeed
I know you won't see this, especially because this video is so old, even though I have a super stock car, these kind of videos really make me re-think everytime I have a thought to put off an oil change as a non car enthusiast because I learn new reasons everytime on why it's so important, it's genuinely such a good thing you all do so thank you!
One of my fav videos you guys ever made, love to hear the thought process
I’m so glad you guys did this video. I found it really interesting that you guys blew both engines when the forums always act like the z’s can handle boost no problem. Very informative about the many things you can do when installing a turbo to make it not blow up.
Really?? Most people I know would argue the opposite reliability goes out the window once you go FI with the VQ motors.
These motors bend rods and pistons really quick if there is too much torque.
The block itself can take a lot of power, but you can’t cut corners with these motors if you want to go forced induction.
ruclips.net/video/3lUp2C0pS_Y/видео.html
Finally it's here YES.
Many vqs run much more boost with no issues. Mine is at 430hp with 0 issues at 170k miles. They didn't do enough research on the platforms and had shit fuel. Both kits should have been at a solid 400 hp with no issues. High car had horrible fuel setup. And low car had a poorly designed kit, poorly run oil return, probably why the turbo sized
DEs can’t handle boost, HRs and VHRs on the other hand can, you can do 580-600whp stock motor reliably
Day 403 of asking Donut to bring old B2B back
Keeping a non-car guy like me riveted is no easy task. A brilliant mixture of simple yet in-depth, passionate yet palatable, and not once did a moron like me feel talked down to or in over my head. Big thanks.
Woah, I've learned so much on this episode, you should definitely do more of these "investigations"
God this was such a great video. Super interesting and explained in a way that was easy to understand without extensive explanations. Would love to see more like this
Something I've not seen commented on yet, shouldn't the ring gap have been increased with the turbo? Possible that the ring expanded too much and damaged the piston. Love the series keep up the cool builds!
And what exactly does this piston ring expand into because it’s pressed against the cylinder bore the whole time? If the rings expand to much they butt and grind a warped surface into the cylinder bore.
I don't necessarily think that it was the piston rings. If it was piston ring gap, it would be like someone dropped a ball bearing in the chamber. I am almost certain it was a hot spot on the piston causing it to melt.
At 100,000+ miles, the ring gap would have increased by about .001~.003", actually helping the motor live. In my line of work I've seen this many times, it was classic case of hot spot, a spark knock nucleation site. Too much to write about here but, in short, hot spots easily happen around the edge of piston or on edges of carbon deposits. They act like tiny little glow plugs in the chamber. On the edge of a piston though, its like an oxy/acetylene torch. Once you get a a very tiny pool of molten metal, it oxidizes and spreads like cancer, turning everything into hot porage.
So, this is why spark knock is scary.
Exactly what I was thinking.
@@thehouseofcha1nsaw_ You can tell it's melting damage because aluminum doesn't break with smooth edges, that piston melted for sure. I still doubt it was knock, it's too obvious when an engine is knocking for someone who knows anything to stay in it and knock it to death. I bet it just picked up a hot spot and melted the piston, plus the rest of the piston looked pretty clean which is rare for knock damage. I'll give Nolan the benefit of the doubt that he didn't stay in the throttle while the computer was pulling spark and he was down on power lol.
As someone who is trying to learn more about fixing engines thank you and please keep it up with these technical videos
Can't wait to see her come alive in the new season of Hilow v8 swaps
Loved the case file at the end.
I thought it was a piston or piston ring failure due to a chunk of shredded turbo. Certainly didn't expect a MELTED piston! Damn Nolan
That's why a boost-referenced fuel rail and turbo blanket were two of my first additions to my turbo build 👌
Blown oil seals on the turbo have a way of destroying diesel engines. Considering how long diesels have been using turbos, that's my best bet. The turbo actually sucks all of the oil out of the engine!
@@RidinDirtyRollinBurnouts Yep, good stuff to have, also an air fuel ratio to always be able to see if its lean
I love your videos, and this is one of your best videos yet! Enjoyed the problem solving and science behind the problem.
The thing with slapping a turbski on a NA block is you are now building a tune based around a compression ratio that was not designed for boost. This outcome is a gamble you take when turboing something that is NA, without internals.
i love these videos that you really learn a lot of things from a mechanical perspective
Head gasket? Oil leak in the turbo and/or cylinder? Broken camshaft (not likely) Or perhaps the added pressure from the turbo blew the piston rings? (Wow, almost right, made the same mistake as Nolan tho, as in didn’t account for the added heat)
@Don't Read My Profile Photo and what if I do?
@@DroidzandBrix just report it mate
@@Ady_Mih I’m playing along with the endless rabbit hole 😂
ruclips.net/video/3lUp2C0pS_Y/видео.html
Finally it's here YES.
Probably too much v tec
This is such an informative video! I love content like this. Get to learn a lot from videos like these. Great stuff at Donut Media. Production quality is top notch. The hosts are so engaging and fun to listen to. Jeremiah did amazing here. Keep em coming!
Ring pinch will cause this. Turdblow engines need more ring gap to dill with the added heat..
We need another hi-low series with time constrained turbo builds. It was so good.
As a petrochemist I love when car owner send their engine oil samples to blame the oil supplier for a breakdown and most of the time it's just a bad setup in the car and they're always like, how it's possible? I do the setup by myself, I'll go to another lab. And I'm like, ok Mr. but don't forget pay the 1000$ for the test
Well when I seen cylinder one had no compression which means there’s a problem in either the piston or the ring I think the rings the problem but keep up the good work guys u guys make the best videos 100% the best crew on yt
I heard all 05-06 350Zs with a manual tranny had oil burning issues. I bought a new 06 with 2 miles on it. It burned 1.5 qts per 1k miles. They eventually replaced the engine under warranty. The new one burned about 1qt oil every 1k miles.
I remember watching the high vs low back when they came out and the dude who was the "mechanic" for low car kept using WD-40 as a lubricant. WD-40 Is a penetrant and should NEVER be the final lubricant for anything that needs lubricant. It's a rookie mistake.
EDIT: I just found the episode, it was the one on fuel injectors. Lol car used WD-40 to lube the O-rings for their injectors. If those O-rings dry out they could allow air through which would make the car run lean and increase the heat that led to the piston failure.
Maybe that was the point.
@@guard13007 no, the dude made sure to say the part needed to be well lubricated and specifically said he was going to use WD-40 as the lubricant. I can't remember the episode but I remember it was something deep in the engine.
Or are you saying they did things wrong on purpose because they're lo-car? Lo means low price, not low IQ. They should still do things right, just cheaply.
@@DanielJamesEgan Hit the nail on the head. There needs to be a PSA video for the majority of WD-40 users lol. It's even got it in the name "WaterDisplacement-40".
It's a shame 'cos there are probably thousands of faults over the years that wouldn't have happened if they knew WD ain't lubricant.
Can't wait for the v8 swap. Who else?
Right here‼️
My intrigue with Jerry is boundless. The way he explains things; his cadence, tone and emotion.... And dare I mention the way he without fail; mispronounces oil every time. I could let him mansplain the science of side mirror wipers for a Donut advertisement on incliment weather advisories for 30 seconds, and just have the most peachy keen day knowing I learned, and understood something!
Swell job O-Ring team.
14:42 about time that we enjoyed a merch plug.. And it wasn't in the way of the lesson.. Beat shirt and all is on point.. Keep that vibe.
I think coolant got into the compression zone and it made it blew up
Well, I was wrong but I just wanted to say that Donut are putting out REALLY great videos lately
Awesome episode as per usual, just one slight correction to avoid confusion in case someone is chasing problems
and doesn't know the cylinder numbers in order on a VQ and which banks are 1 and 2.
It was Cylinder 2 that failed on this car, not Cylinder 1
Cyl 1 is the first cylinder on bank 1, which in this cars case is the passenger side (Drivers side if right hand drive)
So when you pull the head off bank 2 @11:52, the front cylinder is Cyl2, middle is Cyl 4 and the last one is Cyl 6 and not 1,3,5 as stated.
Keep up the good work guys, looking forward to an update on this car.
This is correct.
Replayed 10:23 like 20 times that background killed me
Knock is definitely NOT the piston smacking around the cylinder wall.
2:58 I know little about the mechanical aspect of cars as I am a younger guy, but is there a chance part of the turbo broke off and found its way into where it shouldn't be? I've heard of this happening before with budget turbos, so this is just a guess.
Possibly, but I wanted to chip in and say that Turbonetics isn't a budget turbo in the same sense as an Ebay turbo. They're obviously not on the same level as a Garrett or Precision or Borg Warner or anything like that, but Turbonetics does make some fairly high-quality turbos.
@@Gborohooo oh I didn’t know that, thanks!
@@toppiestrock3784 Yeah man! I have one of these kits and the rest of the kit comes with absolutely crap parts if you don't replace them (gaskets, piping, hardware, etc) so it's definitely surprising that it comes with a decent turbo. They also have a version that actually comes with a crappy ebay turbo too lol
I think the engine was sabotaged by high car
Is it possible to seperate the oil line for the engine and turbo, so that hot oil from the turbo doesn't get into the engine?
Yes and no, you’d have to make a completely different oil circuit to make that work which is doable but not practical at all, much easier to change oil weight to adjust for temp difference. In reality the extra heat really should make much of a difference
After this baptism of hell and fire, Nolan has earned his redemption and forgiveness so he can carry on. You guys are crazy
I don't know anyone from this channel, but 100% it's Nolan's fault if I had to bet.
3:08 Guess is the turbo delivered to much air into the engine and caused a destructive misfire that bent/broke a piston. Probably wrong but hey it is a guess from a non-mechanic that only knows the basics of car repairs :)
Not sure why knock was explained the way that it was… knock is detonation of the fuel/oxygen at the incorrect time in the sequence of timing events. Too much timing can cause it or to low of octane can cause it. For example….gasoline octane rating can be thought of as a resistance of knock the lower the octane the easier it is to ignite the higher the octane the harder it is to ignite…..to understand it you have to remember that the air/fuel mixture will ignite easier with higher compression (which they did with turbo) to fight detonation racers will use high octane fuel which in turn makes the air/fuel mixture (which is under higher compression for the example) harder to ignite and that helps fight knock/pre-detonation in the cylinder due to not enough octane and too much cylinder pressure
and they described the sound as the piston "rocking" back and forth. i suppose thats sort of correct, but its more like pushing the piston down or hitting it with a hammer as its trying to go up. i guess the end effect is the same. pre-ignition is also the same in effect, just that the actual ignition is out of time (too advanced making it run hot for the small amount of fuel).
what
The way this video is put together is very informative to people new to cars. this is why i love donut
Rip Low-car
That video was super fun! Congratulations to everyone involved!
13:08 that’s not what pre ignition is, it isn’t causing the piston to smack around lol, it’s the explosion of gas due to heat rather than a clean burn.
I love seeing you guys fixing high and low car these are my favorite by far
I love how much I learn from this channel. It’s so educational.
Engine pinging or knocking is caused by pre-combustion of the air fuel mixture, which is combustion before spark. The associated noise of pinging (which becomes knocking when it's more severe) is the pressure wave of combustion hitting the top of the piston while the piston is still moving up. This knocking can damage the piston by breaking the ring lands which looks like what happened to your engine. Combustion after spark doesn't even make sense because the spark has already set everything on fire. You are not hearing the piston rocking back and forth under high pressure and engine speed.
sounds like exactly what happened to my Genesis. i lost compression in the engine. they said it couldve been a timing belt/chain but after watching this i think the piston failure was more of a cause since it was only one cylinder with no psi
More videos like this please! The questioning mindset, and logical assessment as more and more information is gleaned is one of the harder parts of learning to be a decent mechanic.
The video was great for a guy who doesn't know anything about cars, problem was well explained, and graphics helped break it down for me to digest
ty donut team u carry the auto industry
Production value is so amazing on these videos
..and thats why you mount an aftermaket turbo underneath and at the back of the car, away from the engine; even with the parasitary losses of the longer piping entails you are better off....very sweet ,educacional video
Probs one of my fav episode. Everything was explained clearly !
Making my guess 6:18. Problem is ring failure most likely due to not having enough ring gap under boost combined with what I'm guessing is a higher milage car that had seen redline more than leisurely Sunday drives along with poor maintenance before the donut crew got it
Give low car the love it deserves and do a full rebuild!!
the only thing I didn't like, was the suggestion that the heat radiating from the turbo housing over heated the 1 cylinder. Exhaust temps can easily get to 1400 degrees, but the housing temps will likely never exceed 300 degrees. If turbo housing outside temps got to 1000 degrees, overheating one cylinder would be the least of your worries.
As someone who works for Infiniti and very knowledgeable about the VQ motors, you actually lost cylinder 2. On the Nissan V6 engines bank 1 and cylinder 1 accordingly are on the drivers side of a RHD built vehicle. So cylinder 2 is actually the one that melted. These motors rarely ever have injector failures and when they do it's typically caused by an outside source like bad/dirty gas that plugs the injector. My guess is the age of the engine most likely caused the engine to fail. Older VQ's with higher mileage tend to let some oil past the rings. On top of that, cylinder 2 is the furthest fuel injector from the fuel supply so with the increased fuel demand cylinder 2 may have had a slight fuel starvation causing a lean condition in that cylinder alone.