Thanks for your 'sensitive' restoration video. As they say, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". Like you, I purchase old tools for use, mostly because they are better made than affordable new stuff. My most recent purchase was a 100+ year old Disston handsaw for less than $15. I cleaned it up a bit, much as you did, then jointed/resharpened it. That thing is a beauty, and a lot of its character comes from the fact that it's clearly a very old lady, but still performs its function very well and potentially will continue to do so long beyond my lifetime. It will 'not' be hanging on some hipster's wall while I'm still alive. It will be in my workshop, doing what it does best!
Very nice job! I myself like the "light" restoration approach. It helps to preserve some of the character that the tool acquired over the decades. I understand that others may like to take the refinishing to a higher level and it can look very good but it isn't for everyone.
I just restored a similar looking old saw, it turned out amazing and works like a brand new one! However now I am constantly looking for all kind of old tools that I am restoring :D
For the saw nuts, I gently chuck them up in an eggbeater drill (or power drill, I just love eggbeaters) and spin them on a series of sanding sponges up to 400 grit and then spin them on leather with stropping compound. The leather is backed by the sponge so it flexes into the curves and corners nicely. They come out like a shiny new penny.
I just acquired two saws near exactly like these. Perfect content for me. An EC Atkins back saw and a warrant backsaw/iron-guided mitre set. Thanks for making this video. 🪚
Was curious how others clean em. I take some steel wool (which is bs because it's ductile iron) and unravel it. I pour dish soap on it, a little water and then comet. Fold it back up and work it in until the whole thing is a dark sea foam green color. That'll get it clean lol. But it's fairly aggressive. If I have it on hand I'll also use cream of tartar and a pad of leather to buff it the rest of the way. Doesn't actually seem to effect marks that much. Same system I use for old rusty cast iron I want to bring back to life. I used that on my most recent saw. It's... Not sure what to call it. It's a back saw. Kind of. The back has a wingnut on the far end and a lever on the handle. if I loosen both the back which is really two bars forge welded together at one end comes loose. Then I can flip the blade around to either to cross cut or rip cut side. Can even stick it in at an angle if I'm forced to work a little lower than is comfortable. It's 12". at an angle it's effectively 10". So depending on how I have it setup it's either a large dovetail or a small carcass. Which is why I don't know exactly what to call it.
Not a good idea to use steel wool with bare hands as you will end up with small fragments imbedded in your fingers. I'm speaking from personal experience.
@@hoodoo-man he does, I just steel wooled my saw with no rubbers on like a man. Nothing In my thick skinned fingers. And if there was I wouldn’t complain csuse im a man
You may cover this in the video as I'm only just starting to watch but what advice do you have for removing the handle screws when the back just turns as well?
I find that when I have to take off old paint or stain I sand enough of the wood all the way around to take off the old finish as well but not sand too deeply. Then I coat the handle several times with boiled linseed oil and finish with paste wax. Never use Poly, never! Just wax once a month and the finish will be fine if you are a hand tool user.
I'm curious why you would never use poly. Sure, linseed oil and paste wax makes a nice looking finish that has a good feel to it. But poly is cheap, fast setting, and durable. Also it provides a takyness at times that is good for gripping. And it doesn't require the upkeep and constant rewaxing. You are probably like me and enjoy the process of fiddling with your tools and taking care of them. But I am sure there are guys out there simply interested in the utility of the tool and would rather not have to keep up the finish on their hand tools, they would rather just use them, and fuss over the actual project they are working on rather than the finish of the tool handle.
@@nickcrider4309 The main problem with poly is that it never goes on as smooth as when using something more natural such as boiled linseed oil or teak oil and wax. Yes, one has to add a bit of wax every so often and the wax will add a bit of tackiness as well. It's a matter of having pride in your tools. A good tool deserves good care. I doubt that many individuals use hand saws, fine chisels, and the like. But there is more to old hand saws and chisels than the handles. It takes time to properly sharpen a hand saw or chisel. That is the craftsman part of wood working, it's part of the art.
@@martaamance4545 100% agree about the necessary upkeep. Sharpening and upkeep is a must. Not just for old hand tools, any kind of tool requires this. However, fussing about the finish on the handle doesn't really qualify for as necessary upkeep in my mind. It contributes nothing to the function of the tool. I think some guys might prefer a solid finish that they know is going to last on their tools so they can spend more time working with the tool and not working on the tool. I agree tools deserve good care, but I don't see how a coat of poly on the handle qualifies as bad care, and oil and wax qualify as good care. Seems like a matter of taste. However, I certainly understand preferring the combo of oil and wax for aesthetic purposes. I am with you on that point. I think it looks better and feels better than poly. So if it increases your enjoyment when using the tool, then I think a little extra work on the finish now and again is worth the little bit of extra work. I do the same with my wooden handles. My father on the other hand? He could care less. He just wants a sharp blade, fine shavings, and tight joints. haha
@@nickcrider4309 It's matter of priorities. Yes, a sharp blade and fine shavings get the work done. But I was a craftsman with the telephone company and learned the value of craftsmanship. One of those values is how you treat your tools. A craftsman soon learns that good enough isn't. True, we did not have the finer wood working tools but what we did have we , those who had the reputation for fine quality, we kept in good repair. Using a file to keep your screwdriver blades square and at the right thickness made work so much easier than rounded blades. Cable saws were kept in good repair (not used much but still) and clean, polish the handle when you had time. Like the old Gillette razor blade commercial, Look sharp, be sharp. True, in cable maintenance I used to average 70 hours a week through the year, not much time to spend on tool maintenance, but the attention one gives to one's tools pays dividends. Craftsmanship is a habit one acquires and a pride one aspires to. Either one is a craftsman or one is not, no two ways about it. You keep the hooks on your climbers sharp because your safety depends upon it, you keep your leather pads on your climbers because your safety depends upon it as well as your comfort. And so it goes, you look after your tools and they will look after you. When it is nine o'clock at night and you are climbing that last pole to fix that last trouble and the rain is coming down hard you need confidence in your tools. Hate to tell you how many nights I spent up a telephone pole restoring service. Looking after your tools is not a once a month or even once a week thing, you do it daily before you use them. I was one of the best back in the seventies, my quality was second to none, and the guys in the construction yard knew it.
Hi Tom I own a Disston D8 Ripping Saw & a D-23 Cross Cut Saw that I think is from the 1930's but the nuts & Medallion on the handle look to be Aluminum ? the Medallion has the words Disston at top & USA on the bottom with the Scales of Justice in center of Medallion - Can you tell me how old the D-23 might be or am I right its from the 30's? These saws were from my Grandfather who passed in early 1970's & was a Master Carpenter and borned in 1909! Thank You for the Great info on restoring & caring for my Grandpa's Saws & my great Memories of him!
Hi! Wood and Shop I just watched a video of someone restoring an 1880's - 1897 Disston Back Saw where he sanded & polished the Plate to a new brite finish then sanded the Handle completely down and refinished with a Polyurethane finish after using a buffing wheel on all the brass? Every comment said " What a Beautiful Job he did & that most woodworkers would rather have a " Restored Saw" like he just did then one with old ugly Patina & dark ugly stained wooden handle! I cringed & bit my Tongue but what I want to really know is did this Guy just Destroy any value the saw may have had because IMHO he did just That Destroyed it!
I’m so confused, what is danish oil?? I live in Denmark and we don’t have it here!? Well we don’t have the danish (pastry) either, here we have wiener bread.
It's a vernacular term for a mixture of usually linseed oil, spar varnish, and mineral turps. But it also comes premade and sold as 'Danish Oil' or 'Scandinavian Oil'- not sure of the origin of the name though
I personally prefer the old patina, but you certainly could sand the handle down and put on a new finish. But I think the old patina looks & feels way better than the new look.
I am currently restoring many hand saws and back saws. some are so dirty I do not know if thet have lettering on them and most need new handles. What wood do you suggest for a handle? is hard wood ot soft wood better?
Good for you Robert! Most antique hand saw handles were made out of either beech or fruit woods, like apple, because they allow the handle maker to make more crisp details. I've made handles out of beach, and walnut. Both turned out nice. But apple wood is usually considered the best for handles. Soft wood and hardwoods like oak are not a good idea. The softwood will not be strong enough.
P.S. Tom shows how to make saw handles in the DVD that I created about making an 18th century panel saw: store.woodandshop.com/product-category/woodworking-dvd-videos/. And if you're close enough to Virginia, we have a couple saw making classes with Tom this year, where you'll learn to make saw handles: woodandshop.com/school
Wood and Shop I will stick to dvd's right now. I am looking for a place for woodworking here in Orlando, Florida. I may need to make my own. I cant stop learning now. I have not felt more alive. I have plenty of walnut so that is what I will use for now. thanks
Dear Tom, I have a fine toothed Tenon saw that has never cut well. I can get a couple of mm into the wood and it starts to bind. I noticed that the blade has a significant curve and thought I’d give it a try to remove and se-seat the blade from the back. How would I go about doing this? Thanks.
I got fairly large hand palms and short fingers; so I do not like to stretch the index finger alongside the saw handle. I prefer a the unconventional 'full' grip, with four fingers, around the handle, which usually is too small for my hand. Therefore, I have no alternative but to make my own handles, though I can not rely on standard templates. It took me a while to figure that out.
I haven't finished editing it yet, so it'll be a few months. It's a very detailed tutorial with multiple camera angles, so it takes a long time to produce.
Hand saws are a dime a dozen. OK maybe a dollar or three. So just buy them and take what you need off of them. Some saws have 5 nuts holding the handle on. That's a supply right there.
what about paint on the handle's i came across 2 dozen hand saws that the per order had he painted them as to the saw blades vinegar to removed the heavy lifted rust and refinish the blades stop the rushing works not that bad just the vinegar will re re rust the blades if not neutralize the vinegar hot soapy water help the light penetrating oil light rub on let sit to dry them wax the blade does help not to rust their better stuff out their work as or mush better just the handles i have trouble with the paint he said the been on 60 some year. as to the paint the per owner said it could be lead paint that he used back them was lead in the painted them it was a great fine and purchase of shop tools
Great information. Thanks for sharing. Just a little constructive criticism, do multiple takes and choose the best one. Nerves will get to anyone in front of a camera or audience, especially if you feel the pressure of having to “perform “ in a single take or live. You’re a teacher. Just treat it like you’re speaking to your students.
Sorry, but we want this to be real, not rehersed. This was Tom's first time being featured in a DVD, and with a 5 hour DVD there's no time to reshoot unless it's really bad or there's a mistake.
Yeah parts of this video seems pretty pressured and rushed. I was screaming at the screen, get those spots of white paint off! Every used tool I buy always has them dots of white paint on them. It is one of those universal rules of the cosmos or something. Old tools always have dots of white paint on them.
This art of handcrafting is sadly disappearing, now everything is made with powertools. Just look at most channels almost everyone has a bunch of them. And honestly anyone can do decent things with an arsenal of powertools, this people have no real skill its like a joke. And what's coming is worse, now they don't even operate them! It's a router attached to a machine, you just upload a blueprint and go take a nap, and this things can do incredibly intricate work. The future is grim :(
Actually, the future is bright! I know plenty of people (including myself) who are proficient in both hand tools and power tools. And fortunately hand tool use is growing in popularity. I like using hand tools when they're faster and when I need a break from power tools. But if I need to save time and make money, power tools are the way to go. All things should be done in a way that brings you joy.
This is a clean up not a restore. You really should (IMHO) show how you would sharpen/resharpen such a saw. I have questioned the use of wax because it inevitably will transfer to your work & then it's difficult to remove?
Any wax transfer will be on the surface only and will be removed when your piece is sanded, scraped, or planed in preparation for the finish. Woodworkers have been waxing their metal tools for as long as there has been metal tools.
If you are a collector then that is what you pay for, patina. On the other hand, if you want to actually use that saw, the "100 years of old patina" makes the saw almost unusable.
Beautiful shop. Nice to see folks preserving old hand tools.
Thanks for your 'sensitive' restoration video. As they say, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". Like you, I purchase old tools for use, mostly because they are better made than affordable new stuff. My most recent purchase was a 100+ year old Disston handsaw for less than $15. I cleaned it up a bit, much as you did, then jointed/resharpened it. That thing is a beauty, and a lot of its character comes from the fact that it's clearly a very old lady, but still performs its function very well and potentially will continue to do so long beyond my lifetime. It will 'not' be hanging on some hipster's wall while I'm still alive. It will be in my workshop, doing what it does best!
Loved where you said: "It will 'not' be hanging on some hipster's wall while I'm still alive." Made me chuckle.
Very nice job! I myself like the "light" restoration approach. It helps to preserve some of the character that the tool acquired over the decades. I understand that others may like to take the refinishing to a higher level and it can look very good but it isn't for everyone.
Instablaster.
I just restored a similar looking old saw, it turned out amazing and works like a brand new one! However now I am constantly looking for all kind of old tools that I am restoring :D
For the saw nuts, I gently chuck them up in an eggbeater drill (or power drill, I just love eggbeaters) and spin them on a series of sanding sponges up to 400 grit and then spin them on leather with stropping compound. The leather is backed by the sponge so it flexes into the curves and corners nicely. They come out like a shiny new penny.
I was bit by the sawbug. I love the quality of the old saws, and finding out the history is a great thing.
Great summary and just enough detail for me to leverage it to recondition my latest project! :) thanks!
Thank you for the video. Good work. We are all the same people all over the world with tools.
I LIKE THE INSTRUTION VIDEO THANK YOU
thank you for sharing for free
Great information thank you.
Try using vinegar instead of mineral spirits to clean the blade, same process, different chemical. Use "Mothers" metal polish on the brass.
I'm going to have to use that line, "I collect them to use them."
0
Thank you.
Good explanation of the different types.
I've found that a leather strop charged with chromium oxide cleans and shines tarnished brass with excellent results. Nuts and bolts especially...
I just acquired two saws near exactly like these. Perfect content for me. An EC Atkins back saw and a warrant backsaw/iron-guided mitre set. Thanks for making this video. 🪚
Was curious how others clean em. I take some steel wool (which is bs because it's ductile iron) and unravel it. I pour dish soap on it, a little water and then comet. Fold it back up and work it in until the whole thing is a dark sea foam green color. That'll get it clean lol. But it's fairly aggressive. If I have it on hand I'll also use cream of tartar and a pad of leather to buff it the rest of the way. Doesn't actually seem to effect marks that much. Same system I use for old rusty cast iron I want to bring back to life.
I used that on my most recent saw. It's... Not sure what to call it. It's a back saw. Kind of. The back has a wingnut on the far end and a lever on the handle. if I loosen both the back which is really two bars forge welded together at one end comes loose. Then I can flip the blade around to either to cross cut or rip cut side. Can even stick it in at an angle if I'm forced to work a little lower than is comfortable. It's 12". at an angle it's effectively 10". So depending on how I have it setup it's either a large dovetail or a small carcass. Which is why I don't know exactly what to call it.
Not a good idea to use steel wool with bare hands as you will end up with small fragments imbedded in your fingers. I'm speaking from personal experience.
You must have soft girl's hands.
@@hoodoo-man he does, I just steel wooled my saw with no rubbers on like a man. Nothing In my thick skinned fingers. And if there was I wouldn’t complain csuse im a man
You may cover this in the video as I'm only just starting to watch but what advice do you have for removing the handle screws when the back just turns as well?
I like the watch
I find that when I have to take off old paint or stain I sand enough of the wood all the way around to take off the old finish as well but not sand too deeply. Then I coat the handle several times with boiled linseed oil and finish with paste wax. Never use Poly, never! Just wax once a month and the finish will be fine if you are a hand tool user.
I'm curious why you would never use poly. Sure, linseed oil and paste wax makes a nice looking finish that has a good feel to it. But poly is cheap, fast setting, and durable. Also it provides a takyness at times that is good for gripping. And it doesn't require the upkeep and constant rewaxing. You are probably like me and enjoy the process of fiddling with your tools and taking care of them. But I am sure there are guys out there simply interested in the utility of the tool and would rather not have to keep up the finish on their hand tools, they would rather just use them, and fuss over the actual project they are working on rather than the finish of the tool handle.
@@nickcrider4309 The main problem with poly is that it never goes on as smooth as when using something more natural such as boiled linseed oil or teak oil and wax. Yes, one has to add a bit of wax every so often and the wax will add a bit of tackiness as well. It's a matter of having pride in your tools. A good tool deserves good care. I doubt that many individuals use hand saws, fine chisels, and the like. But there is more to old hand saws and chisels than the handles. It takes time to properly sharpen a hand saw or chisel. That is the craftsman part of wood working, it's part of the art.
@@martaamance4545 100% agree about the necessary upkeep. Sharpening and upkeep is a must. Not just for old hand tools, any kind of tool requires this. However, fussing about the finish on the handle doesn't really qualify for as necessary upkeep in my mind. It contributes nothing to the function of the tool. I think some guys might prefer a solid finish that they know is going to last on their tools so they can spend more time working with the tool and not working on the tool. I agree tools deserve good care, but I don't see how a coat of poly on the handle qualifies as bad care, and oil and wax qualify as good care. Seems like a matter of taste.
However, I certainly understand preferring the combo of oil and wax for aesthetic purposes. I am with you on that point. I think it looks better and feels better than poly. So if it increases your enjoyment when using the tool, then I think a little extra work on the finish now and again is worth the little bit of extra work. I do the same with my wooden handles. My father on the other hand? He could care less. He just wants a sharp blade, fine shavings, and tight joints. haha
@@nickcrider4309 It's matter of priorities. Yes, a sharp blade and fine shavings get the work done. But I was a craftsman with the telephone company and learned the value of craftsmanship. One of those values is how you treat your tools. A craftsman soon learns that good enough isn't. True, we did not have the finer wood working tools but what we did have we , those who had the reputation for fine quality, we kept in good repair. Using a file to keep your screwdriver blades square and at the right thickness made work so much easier than rounded blades. Cable saws were kept in good repair (not used much but still) and clean, polish the handle when you had time. Like the old Gillette razor blade commercial, Look sharp, be sharp. True, in cable maintenance I used to average 70 hours a week through the year, not much time to spend on tool maintenance, but the attention one gives to one's tools pays dividends. Craftsmanship is a habit one acquires and a pride one aspires to. Either one is a craftsman or one is not, no two ways about it. You keep the hooks on your climbers sharp because your safety depends upon it, you keep your leather pads on your climbers because your safety depends upon it as well as your comfort. And so it goes, you look after your tools and they will look after you. When it is nine o'clock at night and you are climbing that last pole to fix that last trouble and the rain is coming down hard you need confidence in your tools. Hate to tell you how many nights I spent up a telephone pole restoring service. Looking after your tools is not a once a month or even once a week thing, you do it daily before you use them. I was one of the best back in the seventies, my quality was second to none, and the guys in the construction yard knew it.
Great Job I have several old Diston's that I have done it's worth the effort.They perform beautifully.
Glad you liked it Joe!
I make a restoration on my back saw too
I'm going to use that "line" to my wife. I just collect them to use them. Thanks!!
Hi Tom I own a Disston D8 Ripping Saw & a D-23 Cross Cut Saw that I think is from the
1930's but the nuts & Medallion on the handle look to be Aluminum ? the Medallion has
the words Disston at top & USA on the bottom with the Scales of Justice in center of Medallion - Can you tell me how old the D-23 might be or am I right its from the 30's?
These saws were from my Grandfather who passed in early 1970's & was a Master
Carpenter and borned in 1909! Thank You for the Great info on restoring & caring for my
Grandpa's Saws & my great Memories of him!
Very nice Tom, you could be a teacher. The hand saw itself is a beauty andyou let it conserve its class
Tom is a teacher, and you can check out his saw making classes here: woodandshop.com/school/
What about Murphys wood soap on the handle to clean it. I've used that and it works great.
Haven't heard of that, but may now. Thanks Paul!
Hi! Wood and Shop I just watched a video of someone restoring an 1880's - 1897
Disston Back Saw where he sanded & polished the Plate to a new brite finish then
sanded the Handle completely down and refinished with a Polyurethane finish after
using a buffing wheel on all the brass? Every comment said " What a Beautiful Job he
did & that most woodworkers would rather have a " Restored Saw" like he just did then
one with old ugly Patina & dark ugly stained wooden handle! I cringed & bit my Tongue
but what I want to really know is did this Guy just Destroy any value the saw may have had because IMHO he did just That Destroyed it!
Who cares about the value, saws are made to be used not kept on a shelf and sold
is there a difference between mineral spirits and paint thinner?
Hi am an actor but in holiday i sometimes do Metal detecting i found an axe can you please make a video on how to restore it.
I’m so confused, what is danish oil?? I live in Denmark and we don’t have it here!? Well we don’t have the danish (pastry) either, here we have wiener bread.
It's a vernacular term for a mixture of usually linseed oil, spar varnish, and mineral turps. But it also comes premade and sold as 'Danish Oil' or 'Scandinavian Oil'- not sure of the origin of the name though
My handles finish is in bad shape, and there’s some red paint splattered on it, Would you recommend refinishing the handle?
I personally prefer the old patina, but you certainly could sand the handle down and put on a new finish. But I think the old patina looks & feels way better than the new look.
do a show on 2 man 6 foot saws with massive teeth. it was my gram-pas saw. he was born in 1871
I am currently restoring many hand saws and back saws. some are so dirty I do not know if thet have lettering on them and most need new handles. What wood do you suggest for a handle? is hard wood ot soft wood better?
Good for you Robert! Most antique hand saw handles were made out of either beech or fruit woods, like apple, because they allow the handle maker to make more crisp details. I've made handles out of beach, and walnut. Both turned out nice. But apple wood is usually considered the best for handles. Soft wood and hardwoods like oak are not a good idea. The softwood will not be strong enough.
P.S. Tom shows how to make saw handles in the DVD that I created about making an 18th century panel saw: store.woodandshop.com/product-category/woodworking-dvd-videos/. And if you're close enough to Virginia, we have a couple saw making classes with Tom this year, where you'll learn to make saw handles: woodandshop.com/school
Wood and Shop I will stick to dvd's right now. I am looking for a place for woodworking here in Orlando, Florida. I may need to make my own. I cant stop learning now. I have not felt more alive. I have plenty of walnut so that is what I will use for now. thanks
You could also use popular, hard enough wood with a straight grain. It's cheap and easily available.
Dear Tom, I have a fine toothed Tenon saw that has never cut well. I can get a couple of mm into the wood and it starts to bind. I noticed that the blade has a significant curve and thought I’d give it a try to remove and se-seat the blade from the back. How would I go about doing this? Thanks.
I got fairly large hand palms and short fingers; so I do not like to stretch the index finger alongside the saw handle. I prefer a the unconventional 'full' grip, with four fingers, around the handle, which usually is too small for my hand. Therefore, I have no alternative but to make my own handles, though I can not rely on standard templates. It took me a while to figure that out.
When will this video be available for download?
I haven't finished editing it yet, so it'll be a few months. It's a very detailed tutorial with multiple camera angles, so it takes a long time to produce.
Wood and Shop , thats great to hear. I will be looking forward to it.
where can i buy these brass bolts if they r missing from the handle?
You'll just need to look for used saw parts for that brand or have a machine shop make a new one to match the others.
thank you
Hand saws are a dime a dozen. OK maybe a dollar or three. So just buy them and take what you need off of them. Some saws have 5 nuts holding the handle on. That's a supply right there.
That's a cool accent. Where is it from?
what about paint on the handle's i came across 2 dozen hand saws that the per order had he painted them as to the saw blades vinegar to removed the heavy lifted rust and refinish the blades stop the rushing works not that bad just the vinegar will re re rust the blades if not neutralize the vinegar hot soapy water help the light penetrating oil light rub on let sit to dry them wax the blade does help not to rust their better stuff out their work as or mush better just the handles i have trouble with the paint he said the been on 60 some year.
as to the paint the per owner said it could be lead paint that he used back them was lead in the painted them
it was a great fine and purchase of shop tools
How about using some periods so we can understand what you write?
@@talltimberswoodshop7552 Amen! 😛 And that was the “edited” version!🤦♂️
Will Forte and Henry Rollins, Look them up.
Great information. Thanks for sharing.
Just a little constructive criticism, do multiple takes and choose the best one. Nerves will get to anyone in front of a camera or audience, especially if you feel the pressure of having to “perform “ in a single take or live.
You’re a teacher. Just treat it like you’re speaking to your students.
Sorry, but we want this to be real, not rehersed. This was Tom's first time being featured in a DVD, and with a 5 hour DVD there's no time to reshoot unless it's really bad or there's a mistake.
Yeah parts of this video seems pretty pressured and rushed. I was screaming at the screen, get those spots of white paint off! Every used tool I buy always has them dots of white paint on them. It is one of those universal rules of the cosmos or something. Old tools always have dots of white paint on them.
Chicken tax at 17:30
Yup, my chickens like to photo bomb!
I hate people that call crazy pitted tools "patina"
له له له له له له
This art of handcrafting is sadly disappearing, now everything is made with powertools. Just look at most channels almost everyone has a bunch of them. And honestly anyone can do decent things with an arsenal of powertools, this people have no real skill its like a joke. And what's coming is worse, now they don't even operate them! It's a router attached to a machine, you just upload a blueprint and go take a nap, and this things can do incredibly intricate work. The future is grim :(
Actually, the future is bright! I know plenty of people (including myself) who are proficient in both hand tools and power tools. And fortunately hand tool use is growing in popularity. I like using hand tools when they're faster and when I need a break from power tools. But if I need to save time and make money, power tools are the way to go. All things should be done in a way that brings you joy.
python brand?
Simonds.
This is a clean up not a restore. You really should (IMHO) show how you would sharpen/resharpen such a saw. I have questioned the use of wax because it inevitably will transfer to your work & then it's difficult to remove?
Any wax transfer will be on the surface only and will be removed when your piece is sanded, scraped, or planed in preparation for the finish. Woodworkers have been waxing their metal tools for as long as there has been metal tools.
«How to clean a saw» would be a better name for the video.
Over one hundred years old and you just ruined one hundred years worth of patina
If you are a collector then that is what you pay for, patina. On the other hand, if you want to actually use that saw, the "100 years of old patina" makes the saw almost unusable.
When I'm selling I call it patina, when buying I call it dirt