47. Handsaw Fundamentals
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- Опубликовано: 8 июн 2024
- Tips on recognizing worthwhile saws and how to prepare and use them.
Visit: www.blackburnbooks.com to order books, and to enquire about or sign up for individual and small group lessons in Woodstock NY.
I know exactly that I have to clean the garage. But lets be honest, is there a more joyful way of procrastination than learning about vintage hand tools from this absolute master of a creaftsman? 💪😁
Thank you!
What an excellent class! Never in my life, despite my constant curiosity in the mystery of this tool, have I had such a profound explanation. Thank you so much!
Very true.
@@gjbmuncспасибо мистер за науку, даже не зная английского очень доходчиво.
You have touched on very basic fundamentals, that’s,these days, very few people know about. Thanks
You're very welcome!
Always amazed at how timely your videos are. Just obtained a few saws in need of some loving care. Many Thanks!
Glad you like them!
Rex Krueger sent me here! I enjoy your videos and lessons, and you have tips i have never heard anywhere else, thank you
Awesome! Thank you!
Always great information, I honestly learn something every single episode. I am so very grateful. Thank you sir!
Glad to hear it!
Too interesting and useful video.
Thanks.
You are welcome!
Great Video Mr. Blackburn! I like the whetstone tip to reduce the set. Useful for brand new saws that always seem too aggressive. Thanks!
You bet
So thankful you make these informative videos, I’ve learned so much from you Graham. My heartfelt thanks.
My pleasure!
Thanks a bunch for the lesson, Graham! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too!
Awesome information ! ! !
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
My pleasure
I just bought a Disston D8 rip saw and this video was really timely! I’m looking forward to learning more about good sawing technique and form! Thank you!
Great to hear!
Thank you!' Mr. Blackburn!
You're very welcome!
Awesome video! Thank you for all the information.
Glad it was helpful!
This was very useful. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge! Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
I was amazed at your explanation. It is very useful. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
thank you for the video it was a great help
You're welcome!
Project is coming together nicely. This look =s so cool. 😃😃
Great!
Excellent video as always, Graham! I'm a little behind on my viewing, but am trying to catch up! I'm still reading book two of the Illustrated Workshop, by the way. It's full of great information and excellent illustrations! Thank you very much.
Sounds great!
Great informative video! Thank you, Sir!
I have an issue more with re-sawing and rip cuts. I do what you say with following both guidelines, and I'm good for about 3 inches or so, then the saw will start to drift away. Now, that's either my imbalance of body force or an inadequate saw. My saw choices are really not good at all.
But with the knowledge you give in your videos on saws, they show me that I might have better results with a proper saw. So, thank you again.
It's possible that your saw is 'eading' because the set of the teeth is not equal on both sides.
Thank you Graham. I have an old Disston saw hanging on my wall which needs attention! Ill wait however for the video on rip and cross cut saws, so i can confirm the tooth pattern - as it seems to be a hybrid of both...
If the difference between square-file teeth and angle-filed teeth is that slight you shoiuld be able to make them all one or the other as you prefer.
Thank you
You're welcome!
I find good saws at antique stores prices are often better than ebay
.
Very true.
thanks
You're welcome!
Another great video, thank you. I was given a toolbox full of old tools and I have managed to get most of them in fairly good working order. One of the handsaws is markedly concave, rather than crowned, in the centre. Does it matter and is it worth trying to change it? My first thought was yes it is but presumably the owner used it like it is or he wouldn’t have carried it round in his tool chest.
this video is the first i ever heard of saw crown. i understand the logic but not sure it would apply to every cutting situation. If the saw is sharp i would just use as is to get a feel for what it can and can't do like how much tear out and splintering happens or how accurate it can cut to a specific depth. then you can first hand experience what changed after you sharpen or reshape it.
Some saws are made with crown and some straight. I've never heard of or seen a saw with a purposely concave tooth line. This might have happened if the prior owner sharpened repeatedly without jointing the teeth. Personally I'd make it straight, but like you said, the previous owner probably used it as it is. It just might have been a little harder to push towards the end of a stroke because those rear teeth would dig in a bit more.
@@mattmcgrane8975 Good point about end of stroke dig in. I have a folding Fisker pruning pull saw and i rather it not be super concave for that exact reason come to remember it.
It'll probably work, but eventually if you gradually attempt crowning each time you file it , it will work better.
@@vince55sanders Following your comment I decided to try some resawing and compare this saw to the, very expensive, Lynx handsaw I bought specifically for rip cutting. To my surprise I found that I liked it better. It seemed to be just as fast ( it has 6tpi compared to 4.5 tpi on the Lynx), to give a similar finish and was less likely to wander from the line. As a result it will become my go to saw for this type of work. Thank you for igniting the spark.
Looking forward to seeing crosscut sharpening. Always gives me trouble. Thanks
Coming soon!
Thank you Ghaham for your excellent guide!
Do you have any idea if it is possible to sharpen very fine saw (42 tpi) ad home?
Even the finest dovetail saws only have approx. 17-20 tpi. And you use a very fine file for them. Never heard of a saw with 42 tpi. Hard to imaging what the file for that might look like.
Are you sure it's really 42 tpi? Maybe a very fine jeweler's file might help.
@@gjbmunc It's Styles&Brown gents saw.
Similar but much narrower blades are now available as "Modelcraft Saw Blade 42 tpi".
Great video! One question: wouldn’t grinding down the side of the teeth to remove set, as you did here, unnecessarily thin down each tooth making them more brittle and less durable as compared to the hammer method? Or would the difference be negligible in your opinion?
Using a sharpening stone and just running it down each side really works. It does not thin the metal but a hair. Plus if the saw is cutting to the left or to the right running the stone down it a few times on that side will lessen the set and make it cut better and not draw that direction. Newer saws have more brittle teeth than older ones and harder metal some you may not be able to sharpen from hardware stores etc. An older saw even if a tooth or two are missing since you will be sharpening the teeth will slowly go down and you will make that tooth again.
It shouldn't make much difference and will be rectified anyway the next time you file.
@@gjbmunc thank you for the reply!
Can you joint a saw with just a file (no jointer to help guide)?
Thanks for the videos, they're gems!
Yes, so long as you hold it square. I've never owned the special tool and it's worked out fine. The file needs to be without a handle obviously.
ditto!
What is the largest commonly available rip saw among vintage saws? I'm looking for a 4 ppi rip saw. The largest I'm coming across is a 28" plate. Thank you
Sounds about right.
@@gjbmunc thank you!
How do you crown them?
Just use a little ore pressure and a few more strokes at each end of the blade.
You mentioned that the numbers on the sawset represents the ppi on the saw. However, the contrary is true. It is widely taught and accepted that the numbers do not correspond to the ppi on a saw. Do you have any evidence to refute this claim and what is your source?
Some metal sawsets have rotating anvils with multifacetted faces at different angles numbered to conform to the expected angle of set for saws with that number of TPI for the individual saw. Not perhaps what is always required, which is why I explained the process of diminishing the produced set after setting with a file.
"Lots of them are available if you go to a yard sale" - no, they're not. They used to, but not anymore, all grounds are pretty much picked clean to the bone by ebay vendors.
Tru and the ones you do find are overpriced. Not compared to new but you have to put in a lot of work to get them going..old tools sell for too much money these days..😢😢
sorry to hear that. guess it depends where you live.