That's the way you're supposed to do it in a perfect world. However when the spline and clip in the differential won't let go, then you have a whole other problem. Last one I did, the inner cv joint pulled apart and I ended up having to use a die grinder, slide hammer, and about 30 good whacks to pop it out.
Mine was very tough on my 2013 Polaris 6x6 Big Boss. I snapped some vise grips extra tight mid shaft on the inside of a raised spot then used a slide hammer I rented from Napa for free with a CV “fork” adapter on it that I bought for $25. I ended up snapping two pairs of grips on it and had to work at it with solid, even hits and finally it broke free. It had been soaked in PB blaster for days too. Good luck to any of you doing this task.
Appreciate the video and tip! I’ll be doing a new video while doing my can-am outlander 800r rear axles (since I don’t know how long the boots have been busted since I bought it used) and the least troubles I have, the better!
This is true for I believe just about every 4 wheeler Except arctic cat white axles. Keep that in mind. They put what is a positive lock cv axle that will not let the axle pop out if it was to get into too much angle. You have to hold the axle straight, push in on the axle which moves a pin that releases the clip. Then you grab the inboard side and pull it out while keeping pressure inward on the axle. It is actually a really good design for axles that are at a big angle. No accidental falling out. Great video by the way
Where is all the seized axles videos to show guys that don't know how to remove. Vs the axle that's already been out to show proper removal... I believe it would help alot of ppl to give them an idea what happens when it's seized...
Good video for the basic removal. If everything goes good. Which doesnt always happen. Like to see your take on a hard removal. Love PowerModz. Helped me a bunch on a Sled I rebuilt.
One more idea on a hard CV axle removal. Put some counter pressure on the differential. The mounts that are on there allow some flex, so when you jerk on it, it gives just a little bit, not allowing the CV axle clip to receive the force it needs. Just a thought.
that's what I get for not paying attention I guess my bad sorry about that. the boot was already torn off and I thought you did it by yanking the CV axle. and then I opened my mouth. My bad sorry!!! Good news is I watch all your videos and always get something from them. Thanks for the good work!!
Hey there. Thanks for the video and the tips. I have an 05 polaris sportsman 400 and my axel won't come out like that lol I have tried many times and it just won't budge. Any other tips would be vantastic. Thanks!
carry extra boots on the trail? so you stop everything to remove the axles and everything on the trail just to replace a boot? How do you catch it in time before you toss a bunch of crap into the joint and ruin the joint? It doesn't take much exposure to the elements to ruin the joint. Just continuing to ride and order a new axle is what I do, by the time the new axle arrives my joint is toast but at least I was able to ride it the whole time I waited. Problem is now I'm buying too many axles so I just need a better way to protect the boots.
Some people like to save some money where they can. Not everyone has enough disposable income to just order new stuff when the old isn't even broken but can be repaired.
worked for me. many thanks. the driver's side was tight, almost pulled it off the jackstands. I am glad I started on the passenger side; it popped right off. I was working on a Club Car Carry all 1700.
Want to do a whole new axle because I have wasted almost 200 dollars so far just to put clamps on , honda talon has the same clamps u show in this video (oetiker) and afraid of buying another 200 dollars of tools just to do these clamps !!! U can tell dealer has the sleds set up with the hardest scenario for DIY Any help would be appreciated This is my very first time and I have a blown outer boot in front And trying to get any friend help is impossible
Should you drain the differential oil before removing the axle? I pulled my axle to change a torn boot and noticed about 2 tablespoons of oil dripped out. Do I need to re-fill the differential with oil after I replace the axle?
okay first of all they do not come out that easy. Sometimes you get lucky. On my Arctic Cat four rear axle came out after I disassembled the CV joint and we moved all the grease then I reassembled it gave it a pole and it came right out. At the moment I cannot remove the front axle. I pulled off the end CV joint pulling so hard. so now I don't have anything to hold on to accept the axle shaft itself. So I'm going to get a couple of u-bolts and attach a chain or cable to the shaft. then attach a 50 lb dumbbell to the other end. Hopefully with the extra weight it will come out. Imagine, I've deadlifted 775 lbs and I can't remove the axle. Wtf
I cannot get the front right axel removed on a Moto ZForce Trail 500. I have tried prying, pulling with a wench, etc. What am I doing wrong, or not doing?
I’m one of those guys that screwed up his axle yanking on it. My clip nearest the cv “cup” and rear end let go and put dropped 6 or so steel bearing balls! Now. Is it possible for me to reassemble to cv joint? The cup is stuck, you’re the first person I’ve heard address the issue and I believe you said to knock it out from the other side, after pulling the other axle? Thanks. Hope you see this, my machine is down. 😞
They are replacing the whole axle because two rear axles are only 120 dollars brand new aftermarket. I then replace the boots on the old axles and use them as spares.
PowerModz I figure in the field I saw one guy using a long tube funnel cut and then partially split on the big side I might carry one of those as a need it case
@@stacyreid5077 you would be better off carrying a spare axle to swap. Once you get crap inside the boot then it needs to be stripped, cleaned, re-greased, then sealed with a new boot. That's a bunch of extra steps and time just to save a few $. Once you have the new boot on there and dirt/sand is already inside it is unlikely that you will ever fix it properly until it locks up and gets toasted anyways.
I did the same thing you just did and the shaft cam out of the inner joint and now I can not get it out of the dam thing !!!!!!!!!!! trying pry bars but it still not coming out of the dif ................. dammit ................
How did you end up getting the thing out? I’m afraid to use pry bars, don’t want to crack the aluminum case. Your post is 2 years old is what it says, I’m in this mess now. I have a Kubota rtv x900. I am using this video as a starting point but not sure what I want to try will work or not. We will see.
Not dealing with swapping a boot is worth the extra $. Changing a boot over can be a a PITA! Maybe they don’t last long but there are complete axles for $50.
and then when you do swap the boot your joint has junk in it anyway and starts to click pretty quickly ... replacing the axle is the best option unless you catch the rip really early (good luck) and have some type of a patch kit on hand or want to stop right then and there and replace the boot (lol no thanks)... I just need a better way to protect the boots, I only have a problem with my rear inner boots ripping ... still not exactly sure why
Why put that pressure on the inside joint when you can use a tool to pop it out from between the diff and the axle? I just did this yesterday and it took less than a second to do it the real correct way.
@@larrymcpherson3875 I use a precision pry bar, cheap and available at your local hardware store. like this, www.homedepot.com/p/10-in-Precision-Molding-Bar-55-117/203901496
"use a tool"..." Real correct way".... I don't think a pry bar is the "tool" the manufacturer would recommend using on a CV joint? Lots of people.would dig that "tool" in behind the cup and start digging and destroy the seal and maybe more.
@@Hammerback0 Any tool can be misused, and if you are stupid enough to start digging hard enough to get to the seal then you shouldn't be working on your own machine. Someone that just yanks on it is not someone that should be making videos on how to do it.
Here is a vid from a professional mechanic, and an instructor for the mechanics class at the local college. Notice he doesn't just yank on it, and he explains why. He uses a different type of pry bar because the Can Am has a different cv that is easier to get behind. ruclips.net/video/o8iZpjPG4xM/видео.html
My kawasaki mule 3010 makes a squealing noise when the 4x4 is in gaged. Only makes this noise when the vehicle is moving. The noise is coming from some where in the front. When the 4x4 is disengage, the squealing sound goes away 5 seconds after 4x4 is disengage. Anyone has an idea what is causing this noise?
I have a 250 honda rancher es 2 wheel drive. It will change gears OK but will not move in can see the driveshaft turning at the rubber boot coming out of the back of the transmission but it doesn't move what do you think it could be?
Much easier to replace the complete axle than the boot in the field. There is no "clean" quick and easy way to replace boots without work bench, tools, cleaning solution, etc. I would carry a replacement axle instead for harsh treatment of the utv.
you pulled the boot off and I'm sorry I don't mean to diss you but you did that completely wrong. You get two pry bars or two Hefty screwdrivers and put them in behind that CV axle in between the case and the axle shaft itself and kind of do a scissor action with the screwdrivers on each side of the axle input shaft . you push one pry bar and you pull the other to kind of do a scissor action and it keeps the pressure on that CV axle consistent all the way around and it pops it off real easy-like. Again no disrespect but you did that 'completely" wrong!! now you got to get that boot back on there and that's a pain in the ass. But, since it's open you don't have to clean it up but not a bad idea but add grease while you're there.
@@rockwilkinson8224 well I thought about mentioning putting a piece of plywood behind it and that is possible but if you're in a situation that you may possibly crack your case by doing that you're better off to have somebody else do it for you
Not me. Not worth the extra messy job and frustration to change and repack boots when I can quickly, easily, and less mess just change the axle and have both boots new. Axles are around $80 to $90 and that's with both new boots ready to go instead of his $40 messy one boot replacement hassle. Just my opinion.
That's the way you're supposed to do it in a perfect world. However when the spline and clip in the differential won't let go, then you have a whole other problem. Last one I did, the inner cv joint pulled apart and I ended up having to use a die grinder, slide hammer, and about 30 good whacks to pop it out.
Mine was very tough on my 2013 Polaris 6x6 Big Boss. I snapped some vise grips extra tight mid shaft on the inside of a raised spot then used a slide hammer I rented from Napa for free with a CV “fork” adapter on it that I bought for $25. I ended up snapping two pairs of grips on it and had to work at it with solid, even hits and finally it broke free. It had been soaked in PB blaster for days too. Good luck to any of you doing this task.
This was just what I needed to see. Worked perfectly.
I tried your method like you show in your video, but it didn’t work. Any suggestions at all would be a total blessing. Thank you.
Appreciate the video and tip! I’ll be doing a new video while doing my can-am outlander 800r rear axles (since I don’t know how long the boots have been busted since I bought it used) and the least troubles I have, the better!
Glad I could help!
This is true for I believe just about every 4 wheeler Except arctic cat white axles. Keep that in mind. They put what is a positive lock cv axle that will not let the axle pop out if it was to get into too much angle. You have to hold the axle straight, push in on the axle which moves a pin that releases the clip. Then you grab the inboard side and pull it out while keeping pressure inward on the axle. It is actually a really good design for axles that are at a big angle. No accidental falling out. Great video by the way
Thanks for that info!
Aftermarket axles can be pretty cheap, like $100. It saves time and hassle to replace the whole axle if the boot kit is $40 and the axle is $100.
Where is all the seized axles videos to show guys that don't know how to remove. Vs the axle that's already been out to show proper removal...
I believe it would help alot of ppl to give them an idea what happens when it's seized...
Ive made videos on that im pretty sure - if i encounter one in the future ill shoot a vid on that
Good video for the basic removal. If everything goes good. Which doesnt always happen. Like to see your take on a hard removal.
Love PowerModz. Helped me a bunch on a Sled I rebuilt.
One more idea on a hard CV axle removal. Put some counter pressure on the differential. The mounts that are on there allow some flex, so when you jerk on it, it gives just a little bit, not allowing the CV axle clip to receive the force it needs. Just a thought.
that's what I get for not paying attention I guess my bad sorry about that. the boot was already torn off and I thought you did it by yanking the CV axle. and then I opened my mouth. My bad sorry!!! Good news is I watch all your videos and always get something from them. Thanks for the good work!!
no problem todd thanks for watching!
Hey there. Thanks for the video and the tips. I have an 05 polaris sportsman 400 and my axel won't come out like that lol I have tried many times and it just won't budge. Any other tips would be vantastic. Thanks!
carry extra boots on the trail? so you stop everything to remove the axles and everything on the trail just to replace a boot? How do you catch it in time before you toss a bunch of crap into the joint and ruin the joint? It doesn't take much exposure to the elements to ruin the joint. Just continuing to ride and order a new axle is what I do, by the time the new axle arrives my joint is toast but at least I was able to ride it the whole time I waited. Problem is now I'm buying too many axles so I just need a better way to protect the boots.
We carry spares depending on where we go - if its up north we have to.
Some people like to save some money where they can.
Not everyone has enough disposable income to just order new stuff when the old isn't even broken but can be repaired.
worked for me. many thanks. the driver's side was tight, almost pulled it off the jackstands. I am glad I started on the passenger side; it popped right off. I was working on a Club Car Carry all 1700.
Want to do a whole new axle because I have wasted almost 200 dollars so far just to put clamps on , honda talon has the same clamps u show in this video (oetiker) and afraid of buying another 200 dollars of tools just to do these clamps !!!
U can tell dealer has the sleds set up with the hardest scenario for DIY
Any help would be appreciated
This is my very first time and I have a blown outer boot in front
And trying to get any friend help is impossible
Mine don't have those clips . And I'm not seeing how I'm supposed to stretch a 3/4 inch hole over a 3 inch hole .
Should you drain the differential oil before removing the axle? I pulled my axle to change a torn boot and noticed about 2 tablespoons of oil dripped out. Do I need to re-fill the differential with oil after I replace the axle?
Yeah refill it cause that Diff will get dry.
Man thank you I been fighting with this fuckin axle to replace my boot. This worked perfectly
okay first of all they do not come out that easy. Sometimes you get lucky. On my Arctic Cat four rear axle came out after I disassembled the CV joint and we moved all the grease then I reassembled it gave it a pole and it came right out. At the moment I cannot remove the front axle. I pulled off the end CV joint pulling so hard. so now I don't have anything to hold on to accept the axle shaft itself. So I'm going to get a couple of u-bolts and attach a chain or cable to the shaft. then attach a 50 lb dumbbell to the other end. Hopefully with the extra weight it will come out. Imagine, I've deadlifted 775 lbs and I can't remove the axle. Wtf
What if the boot is good you do it the same? I feel like the last time I did that it came apart, but it absolutely cannot get this axle shaft out.
I got 2009 kymco maxxer 450i 4x4 needs cv axle replacement and cv axle knuckle is it hard to do
I cannot get the front right axel removed on a Moto ZForce Trail 500. I have tried prying, pulling with a wench, etc. What am I doing wrong, or not doing?
I’m one of those guys that screwed up his axle yanking on it. My clip nearest the cv “cup” and rear end let go and put dropped 6 or so steel bearing balls! Now. Is it possible for me to reassemble to cv joint? The cup is stuck, you’re the first person I’ve heard address the issue and I believe you said to knock it out from the other side, after pulling the other axle? Thanks. Hope you see this, my machine is down. 😞
Thanks dude lol. I was gonna weld it off 😂😂
Well I’ll be damned. I was wondering if that was the right thing to do to remove the shaft. Thanks for the video.
Instablaster...
So where l can faind video part 2 ..how to change that gumi
How do you put it back on?
Doesn’t work that easy all the time
They are replacing the whole axle because two rear axles are only 120 dollars brand new aftermarket. I then replace the boots on the old axles and use them as spares.
When you replace just the boot do you use the stretching tool or do you just go ahead and break them down
I usually just separate them
PowerModz thank you I just wondering if it was worth the price of the boot stretchers
@@stacyreid5077 ive never tried one but might be handy in the field. with some very tough boots i dont think think it would work
PowerModz I figure in the field I saw one guy using a long tube funnel cut and then partially split on the big side I might carry one of those as a need it case
@@stacyreid5077 you would be better off carrying a spare axle to swap. Once you get crap inside the boot then it needs to be stripped, cleaned, re-greased, then sealed with a new boot. That's a bunch of extra steps and time just to save a few $. Once you have the new boot on there and dirt/sand is already inside it is unlikely that you will ever fix it properly until it locks up and gets toasted anyways.
Thank you!
How long can you drive the car like that
I did the same thing you just did and the shaft cam out of the inner joint and now I can not get it out of the dam thing !!!!!!!!!!! trying pry bars but it still not coming out of the dif ................. dammit ................
How did you end up getting the thing out? I’m afraid to use pry bars, don’t want to crack the aluminum case. Your post is 2 years old is what it says, I’m in this mess now. I have a Kubota rtv x900. I am using this video as a starting point but not sure what I want to try will work or not. We will see.
Thanks for the info..great job.
Not dealing with swapping a boot is worth the extra $. Changing a boot over can be a a PITA! Maybe they don’t last long but there are complete axles for $50.
and then when you do swap the boot your joint has junk in it anyway and starts to click pretty quickly ... replacing the axle is the best option unless you catch the rip really early (good luck) and have some type of a patch kit on hand or want to stop right then and there and replace the boot (lol no thanks)... I just need a better way to protect the boots, I only have a problem with my rear inner boots ripping ... still not exactly sure why
Thanks for the info!
How about putting it back in. Came out easy wont go back in easy
sure it does - easier.
Why put that pressure on the inside joint when you can use a tool to pop it out from between the diff and the axle? I just did this yesterday and it took less than a second to do it the real correct way.
What is the tool, and where can I get it, will it work on my 2010 CanAm 500. From Canada.
@@larrymcpherson3875 I use a precision pry bar, cheap and available at your local hardware store. like this, www.homedepot.com/p/10-in-Precision-Molding-Bar-55-117/203901496
"use a tool"..." Real correct way".... I don't think a pry bar is the "tool" the manufacturer would recommend using on a CV joint? Lots of people.would dig that "tool" in behind the cup and start digging and destroy the seal and maybe more.
@@Hammerback0 Any tool can be misused, and if you are stupid enough to start digging hard enough to get to the seal then you shouldn't be working on your own machine. Someone that just yanks on it is not someone that should be making videos on how to do it.
Here is a vid from a professional mechanic, and an instructor for the mechanics class at the local college. Notice he doesn't just yank on it, and he explains why. He uses a different type of pry bar because the Can Am has a different cv that is easier to get behind. ruclips.net/video/o8iZpjPG4xM/видео.html
Thanks for the tip. When reinstalling, should you put grease on both surfaces?
Nice, good info!
ya....easy until you get the one thats never been out of a 10 year old unit and its rusted in...
Where are you kind sir? No videos for about a year now. 😮
Im busy! Might be back one day....when I retire I suspect.
My kawasaki mule 3010 makes a squealing noise when the 4x4 is in gaged. Only makes this noise when the vehicle is moving. The noise is coming from some where in the front. When the 4x4 is disengage, the squealing sound goes away 5 seconds after 4x4 is disengage. Anyone has an idea what is causing this noise?
I have a 250 honda rancher es 2 wheel drive. It will change gears OK but will not move in can see the driveshaft turning at the rubber boot coming out of the back of the transmission but it doesn't move what do you think it could be?
Good video
thanks!
When will the boot video be up?
shooting it tomorrow!
Much easier to replace the complete axle than the boot in the field. There is no "clean" quick and easy way to replace boots without work bench, tools, cleaning solution, etc. I would carry a replacement axle instead for harsh treatment of the utv.
The axles on my used replacement front diff were badly seized. Check out my video on how I removed them 😎
That has never ever work for me
you pulled the boot off and I'm sorry I don't mean to diss you but you did that completely wrong. You get two pry bars or two Hefty screwdrivers and put them in behind that CV axle in between the case and the axle shaft itself and kind of do a scissor action with the screwdrivers on each side of the axle input shaft . you push one pry bar and you pull the other to kind of do a scissor action and it keeps the pressure on that CV axle consistent all the way around and it pops it off real easy-like. Again no disrespect but you did that 'completely" wrong!! now you got to get that boot back on there and that's a pain in the ass. But, since it's open you don't have to clean it up but not a bad idea but add grease while you're there.
Todd Bearden thats a great way to crack your diff case trust me I’ve done it
@@rockwilkinson8224 well I thought about mentioning putting a piece of plywood behind it and that is possible but if you're in a situation that you may possibly crack your case by doing that you're better off to have somebody else do it for you
I thought the boot was already pulled off from a stick in the swamo and that's why he was taking the axle out.
@@hillhound523 yep yep my bad sorry about that
if the inner cv were stuck and broken id probably weld a slide hammer to it.
Not me. Not worth the extra messy job and frustration to change and repack boots when I can quickly, easily, and less mess just change the axle and have both boots new. Axles are around $80 to $90 and that's with both new boots ready to go instead of his $40 messy one boot replacement hassle. Just my opinion.
Boo 40 bucks for the boot. 78 for the entire axle. The axle is cheaper
im the one to buy a whole new axle sry bout that
Shit I bought a new axle on ebay for 50.00
No
1
😂 BS