@billtruck72 You're correct. I wrote that in the description. I realized after I published I made the error in my wording. I pinned your comment to the top thanks for pointing the error out.
This is GOLD! I came here enraged by another tutorial, that says the what, but don't tell ya the why?!, He said always leave the binder in ' Tightening position' and thats it. Thanks to this amazing Man, I now understand why i should keep the switch to tighten position. This Man tells you the what, why and how, no stones left unturned! I grateful for that ! Thanks a lot!
Securing the ratchet binder is putting stress on the binder’s chain links . The securing of the chain from a side stake pocket over the load to the other side stake pocket is known as an INDIRECT TIE DOWN . The securing of the chain from the stake pocket directly to the load is known as a DIRECT TIE DOWN .
Very helpful and well explained. Will be buying ratchet binders and chains tomorrow. Have to tie down my TYM 494 onto a gooseneck trailer. Bought the trailer today.
Good stuff bro. I’m learning how to do hotshot. I pray it goes well for me. I’ve subscribed thanks for your help. I’ve learned how to use straps and how to unstrap cargo so far just haven’t learned how to use binder chains but this helps a lot. I’m a little nervous but I’m willing to do challenges and learn as I go on this new journey.
It's a great time. Making money can sometimes be tough and frustrating along with being gone from home takes its toll. But overall I really miss it. Wasn't worth it for the hardships with my family for me.
@@TylerTheFieldServiceTech I was planning on doing just local. Not going out of state or anything. There is a lot of local work here in Texas so I’m able to be home everyday. I also have a family as well. So I’m praying to stay near home and do loads around Texas.
Best of luck, I loved local work when it was good and busy, but when the phone stops ringing, especially during the slow season, you still gotta pay that overhead and survive. You will learn very quickly with local work that places won't pay you what you should be paid for your time frequently. You end up making less money, but you're home nightly, so it's a trade-off. But... what will happen I promise you is you will have to start working the freight boards to stay in business and then you will start getting time conflicts between different customers and having to balance freight board work and local work and it ends up being a problem constantly but you have bills to pay is the fact. Sitting at the house waiting for the phone to ring for work is lots of anxiety, and it will put you out of business. Don't wanna shit on your plans, but I'm being very real with you. The overhead is so damn expensive in your first year cause of insurance and learning lessons it's very tough. Give your best, but don't be surprised if local only doesn't work.
Thanks for the video. Very informative. Im in cdl school and theyre saying that the rub bars are not rated for strapping to. They say your suppose to anchor on the lip underneath the trailer but i see everyone strapping to rub bar
@willmill409 Yeah, that's false 100%. They probably say stake pockets are okay, but rub rail is no go, don't they? Meanwhile, the rub rail is litterally thicker steel with more welds. The tiedowns will break before the welds or rub rail do. Welds and rub rail are waaaayyyyy stronger than tiedowns. Just try to keep your hooks and chains routed through the inside of the rub rail. Keep your binder handles inside the rub rail. They will get you for that and loose tiedowns. Everything else they dont care about. They want that shit secure.
@02:18 for macinery I hate straps. Example a friend of mine borrowed my trailer to carry his Poalris crew cab , during the 200+ miles plus drive , the bouncing of the polaris on the deck sawed thru a strap. If he would have went another 50-100miles I'm pretty sure it with have cut fully the straps. Hit nylon straps can be cut with a simple box cutter, so nylon on any sharp or semi-sharp edge can be cut easily.
Yeah, straps are fragile. Use sleeve protecters and edge corner protectors to maximize life. Straps shouldn't be used on cargo that has a suspension unless you go to the wheel or get completely under the suspension. The suspension bouncing will pop the straps loose. Wheel straps are great straps if used properly. I prefer the lasso style ones due to how versatile they are for different applications.
When that happens, I take a bungees and basically disable the ratchet once I have it tightened. But if the ratchet is on the tighten setting it will only spin to allow it to tighten more. It shouldn't come loose it should in theory only spin infinitly one way and do nothing. Cause the teeth won't engage unless it goes the other way.
Thanks for the info... Why do direct tie-downs lose 50% capacity? I, personally do not like the MBS annotated on devices... if the WLL is 6000 lbs, honestly I don't care what the MBS is (19000 lbs). I can never use that number, nice to know for sure, but I've seen people misinterpret these numbers :- ). I do prefer to use the spool for chain, I've seen a lot of stake-pockets damaged by using chain/binder hooks in them - the spool is designed for chain... :- ).
Idk why that is the case, but It's the law, and I'm sure there is some science and math behind it. How exactly does the binder damage a stake pocket besides paint? I would worry more about breaking a side marker light.
The thought behind the reduction is because the pressure of the restraining force is applied to one spot on the trailer and not split with another tie down point Also he’s wrong. The actual WLL is based on the weakest link of the restraint system. If the chain is rated for 4700 and the binders are rated for 5400 the weakest link is the chain. Meaning that tie downs legal restraining force is 4700# not the binder rating. It’s ALWAYS based on the weakest point.
Please explain why tying directly from the vehicle to the trailer you lose half of the working load strength of the binder. A straight line under tension is always stronger and more stable than tensioned bends and angles and I'm having a hard time rationalizing two chains and two binders reaching across a load being equally strong as four chains and four binders on all four corners. Thanks!
Ask the FMCSA haha. It's just the law for us. There is some science behind it. I misspoke in the video. The tiedown loses half its strength. My weakest point is actually the chain because it's only rated for 4700 lbs. If I was running 3/8 chain it would have been the binder
So, listened again, don’t understand the physics of losing half the load limit for a single point attachment. What component in the rig gets compromised? If you used a chain to the trailer, does that change things?
I don't understand the physics either personally. I know it has to do with angles and pressures and forces and stuff. Basically science haha. Nothing gets compromised you just subtract half of your lowest rating on your tiedown. So for example if your chain has a WLL of 2000 and your binder has a WLL of 3000 lbs your tie down rating for a single point would only be 1000 lbs due to the chain having the lowest original WLL. You cut your lowest rating on the tiedown setup in half. Now if your chain was rated for 4000 lbs and your binder still 3000 lbs your tiedown would be rated for 1500 lbs because you're cutting the rating of the binder in half due to it being the lowest rated of the tiedown. Does that help? Using a chain or strap doesn't change anything it only depends on the WLL of the tiedown and whether you secure it to a single point or double point.
@@TylerTheFieldServiceTech appreciate the response, I have a subcompact tractor and a new 16’ dual trailer, grade 70 chains and ratchets. I’m still modifying the trailer, I have D-rings on the tractor now. Anyway, thanks; I’m probably above 2x as it is.
@craigguinn5423 Yeah for sure with G70 with 5/16 chain & binders you're litterally rated over 9k with single points. Not including the securment over your attachments. Add that and your at Like 12-14k
Tie down at the tire so suspension flex does not let the vehicle move during bumps corners ect. The frame tie down with a bumps can shift and move. Connect each tire and 1 front 1 rear frame connection. Anything less is inadequate. Rachete binders are 100% better. Boom is dangerous budget friendly for the experienced trucker. In the future if you learned anything from this video hire on at maverick or tmc flatbed training. The best investment is knowledge and repetition creates skill and experience. These you have forever REGUARDLESS of your future endeavors
I usually use wheel straps on all vehicles if possible. I have a whole video all about it. I already had the chains out from the load I dropped off at the pickup for this load so I threw them on. That's why I did a 4 point because the 2 point the vehicle moves all over the place on the trailer and it puts uneven pressure on the suspension components. Machine rode perfect for 900 miles passed an inspection and all. This video was solely to explain WLL and binder use.
@lalogarcia2225 I ran all my chains with hooks only on one end. I had in 5/16" 8 - 5 foot sections 4 - 10 foot sections 2 - 16-foot sections & I had two 12 foot sections of 1/4". Never ran out and always had plenty of options
@lifethroughmyeyes8662 Because the peg isn't going in. Not enough force holding the chain hook. Hold the hook for a few turns with your hand then it should get tight enough to hold it on its own.
Hold the chain as you tighten and check to see which end of the ratchet is failing to spin into the ratchet. Usually, it means you need to lubricant the threaded pegs because one of them is failing to operate properly. I prefer white lithium grease to lubricate when I do my equipment maintenance. But when they stick, I use a penetrating oil to lubricate or WD-40 in a pinch.
50% in all directions must be US regulation. In Europe you need 80% forward and 50% sideways and back. Europe makes more sence. things om wheels need to be strapped by the wheel
You can only work off your lowest WLL rating so you have to go off the chain not the binder.
@billtruck72 You're correct. I wrote that in the description. I realized after I published I made the error in my wording. I pinned your comment to the top thanks for pointing the error out.
This is GOLD! I came here enraged by another tutorial, that says the what, but don't tell ya the why?!, He said always leave the binder in ' Tightening position' and thats it. Thanks to this amazing Man, I now understand why i should keep the switch to tighten position. This Man tells you the what, why and how, no stones left unturned! I grateful for that ! Thanks a lot!
Glad you found it so helpful!
Very helpful overview for first-timers and experienced users alike.
Thank you!
Thank you for the insight man! Very helpful. I’m picking up a Chevy 6500 that’s about 16,000 lbs and I feel more comfortable doing it now.
I like how you connected the binder directly to the trailer. This makes sense to me, but rarely see anyone doing it this way.
The only time I don't connect it to the trailer directly is if i need to use an extension, to make it reach.
Securing the ratchet binder is putting stress on the binder’s chain links .
The securing of the chain from a side stake pocket over the load to the other side stake pocket is known as an INDIRECT TIE DOWN .
The securing of the chain from the stake pocket directly to the load is known as a DIRECT TIE DOWN .
Thank you!
I was wondering what size of chains and binders to get. Now I have all the info I needed
Keep on trucking man.
Fantastic video!! I’ll be using it as our SOP for new team members. Thank you.
@@lukegordon2207 awesome glad to hear! Make sure you read the description. I mispoke at one part. The correction is in the description.
Very helpful and well explained. Will be buying ratchet binders and chains tomorrow. Have to tie down my TYM 494 onto a gooseneck trailer. Bought the trailer today.
Glad it helped you out
Thank you. I move a JD5205 tractor occasionally via a trailer and this helped me understand what I need to be safe.
Good stuff bro. I’m learning how to do hotshot. I pray it goes well for me. I’ve subscribed thanks for your help. I’ve learned how to use straps and how to unstrap cargo so far just haven’t learned how to use binder chains but this helps a lot. I’m a little nervous but I’m willing to do challenges and learn as I go on this new journey.
It's a great time. Making money can sometimes be tough and frustrating along with being gone from home takes its toll. But overall I really miss it. Wasn't worth it for the hardships with my family for me.
@@TylerTheFieldServiceTech I was planning on doing just local. Not going out of state or anything. There is a lot of local work here in Texas so I’m able to be home everyday. I also have a family as well. So I’m praying to stay near home and do loads around Texas.
Best of luck, I loved local work when it was good and busy, but when the phone stops ringing, especially during the slow season, you still gotta pay that overhead and survive. You will learn very quickly with local work that places won't pay you what you should be paid for your time frequently. You end up making less money, but you're home nightly, so it's a trade-off. But... what will happen I promise you is you will have to start working the freight boards to stay in business and then you will start getting time conflicts between different customers and having to balance freight board work and local work and it ends up being a problem constantly but you have bills to pay is the fact. Sitting at the house waiting for the phone to ring for work is lots of anxiety, and it will put you out of business. Don't wanna shit on your plans, but I'm being very real with you. The overhead is so damn expensive in your first year cause of insurance and learning lessons it's very tough. Give your best, but don't be surprised if local only doesn't work.
You’re doing wonderful job, very good explanation, thanks a lot man
Thanks for the video. Very informative. Im in cdl school and theyre saying that the rub bars are not rated for strapping to. They say your suppose to anchor on the lip underneath the trailer but i see everyone strapping to rub bar
@willmill409 Yeah, that's false 100%. They probably say stake pockets are okay, but rub rail is no go, don't they? Meanwhile, the rub rail is litterally thicker steel with more welds. The tiedowns will break before the welds or rub rail do.
Welds and rub rail are waaaayyyyy stronger than tiedowns.
Just try to keep your hooks and chains routed through the inside of the rub rail. Keep your binder handles inside the rub rail. They will get you for that and loose tiedowns. Everything else they dont care about. They want that shit secure.
I have known how to use these for a few years now. Now I know ALOT DAMN MORE about using them. Awesome vid dude. I definitely learned a few things.
Solid, very solid advice🤙🏼
Great info and visual aid!😊
Fantastic explanation 👏💯👍
Good video and knowledge man well done.
Video was very helpful. Thank you
@02:18 for macinery I hate straps. Example a friend of mine borrowed my trailer to carry his Poalris crew cab , during the 200+ miles plus drive , the bouncing of the polaris on the deck sawed thru a strap. If he would have went another 50-100miles I'm pretty sure it with have cut fully the straps.
Hit nylon straps can be cut with a simple box cutter, so nylon on any sharp or semi-sharp edge can be cut easily.
Yeah, straps are fragile. Use sleeve protecters and edge corner protectors to maximize life. Straps shouldn't be used on cargo that has a suspension unless you go to the wheel or get completely under the suspension. The suspension bouncing will pop the straps loose.
Wheel straps are great straps if used properly. I prefer the lasso style ones due to how versatile they are for different applications.
I just always worry about the binder loosening up I haul reels and they are tall I can’t slap it against the deck
When that happens, I take a bungees and basically disable the ratchet once I have it tightened. But if the ratchet is on the tighten setting it will only spin to allow it to tighten more. It shouldn't come loose it should in theory only spin infinitly one way and do nothing. Cause the teeth won't engage unless it goes the other way.
Always tighten towards you so when you leave it it’s on the opposite side resting on trailer not towards edge of trailer
Sir
Can you do a video on using the chain binders on your equipment from beginning to end
Good video
Thanks for the info...
Why do direct tie-downs lose 50% capacity? I, personally do not like the MBS annotated on devices... if the WLL is 6000 lbs, honestly I don't care what the MBS is (19000 lbs). I can never use that number, nice to know for sure, but I've seen people misinterpret these numbers :- ).
I do prefer to use the spool for chain, I've seen a lot of stake-pockets damaged by using chain/binder hooks in them - the spool is designed for chain... :- ).
Idk why that is the case, but It's the law, and I'm sure there is some science and math behind it.
How exactly does the binder damage a stake pocket besides paint? I would worry more about breaking a side marker light.
The thought behind the reduction is because the pressure of the restraining force is applied to one spot on the trailer and not split with another tie down point
Also he’s wrong. The actual WLL is based on the weakest link of the restraint system. If the chain is rated for 4700 and the binders are rated for 5400 the weakest link is the chain. Meaning that tie downs legal restraining force is 4700# not the binder rating.
It’s ALWAYS based on the weakest point.
Thanks for sharing
Thank u for explanation
Please explain why tying directly from the vehicle to the trailer you lose half of the working load strength of the binder.
A straight line under tension is always stronger and more stable than tensioned bends and angles and I'm having a hard time rationalizing two chains and two binders reaching across a load being equally strong as four chains and four binders on all four corners.
Thanks!
Ask the FMCSA haha. It's just the law for us. There is some science behind it.
I misspoke in the video. The tiedown loses half its strength. My weakest point is actually the chain because it's only rated for 4700 lbs. If I was running 3/8 chain it would have been the binder
Helpful. Thanks alot
Damn good example! Nice work.
So, listened again, don’t understand the physics of losing half the load limit for a single point attachment. What component in the rig gets compromised? If you used a chain to the trailer, does that change things?
I don't understand the physics either personally. I know it has to do with angles and pressures and forces and stuff. Basically science haha.
Nothing gets compromised you just subtract half of your lowest rating on your tiedown.
So for example if your chain has a WLL of 2000 and your binder has a WLL of 3000 lbs your tie down rating for a single point would only be 1000 lbs due to the chain having the lowest original WLL. You cut your lowest rating on the tiedown setup in half. Now if your chain was rated for 4000 lbs and your binder still 3000 lbs your tiedown would be rated for 1500 lbs because you're cutting the rating of the binder in half due to it being the lowest rated of the tiedown.
Does that help?
Using a chain or strap doesn't change anything it only depends on the WLL of the tiedown and whether you secure it to a single point or double point.
@@TylerTheFieldServiceTech appreciate the response, I have a subcompact tractor and a new 16’ dual trailer, grade 70 chains and ratchets. I’m still modifying the trailer, I have D-rings on the tractor now. Anyway, thanks; I’m probably above 2x as it is.
@craigguinn5423 Yeah for sure with G70 with 5/16 chain & binders you're litterally rated over 9k with single points. Not including the securment over your attachments. Add that and your at Like 12-14k
Good job
Tie down at the tire so suspension flex does not let the vehicle move during bumps corners ect. The frame tie down with a bumps can shift and move.
Connect each tire and 1 front 1 rear frame connection. Anything less is inadequate.
Rachete binders are 100% better. Boom is dangerous budget friendly for the experienced trucker.
In the future if you learned anything from this video hire on at maverick or tmc flatbed training. The best investment is knowledge and repetition creates skill and experience. These you have forever REGUARDLESS of your future endeavors
I usually use wheel straps on all vehicles if possible. I have a whole video all about it. I already had the chains out from the load I dropped off at the pickup for this load so I threw them on. That's why I did a 4 point because the 2 point the vehicle moves all over the place on the trailer and it puts uneven pressure on the suspension components. Machine rode perfect for 900 miles passed an inspection and all. This video was solely to explain WLL and binder use.
what kind of chains and sizes and how many do you recommend for hot shot?
@lalogarcia2225 I ran all my chains with hooks only on one end. I had in 5/16"
8 - 5 foot sections
4 - 10 foot sections
2 - 16-foot sections
& I had two 12 foot sections of 1/4". Never ran out and always had plenty of options
I am fully new THANKYOU
I respect the hat, the shirt, and the 5 for chains. LOL JK
So is it ok to put the hooks on the same chain looping the Cain through the mount point on the trailer?
@JuicyBrisket Yes it is
Thanks 🙏🏾
Thanks dude
バインダー？と、言いますか？leverホイストは使いませんか？
バインダーの方が良いですか？
Why is my chain wrapping around the binder
@lifethroughmyeyes8662 Because the peg isn't going in. Not enough force holding the chain hook. Hold the hook for a few turns with your hand then it should get tight enough to hold it on its own.
Thanks bud
Thanks
The chain links of your binder are in stress applied your way .
What is the length of your 4 chains with the hooks?
The four chains hooked to the machine are 5 foot long.
What does it mean when the turn the ratchet and the chains roll and get tangled as you turn it? I was having trouble with this
Hold the chain as you tighten and check to see which end of the ratchet is failing to spin into the ratchet. Usually, it means you need to lubricant the threaded pegs because one of them is failing to operate properly. I prefer white lithium grease to lubricate when I do my equipment maintenance. But when they stick, I use a penetrating oil to lubricate or WD-40 in a pinch.
How sad! At 0:32, the class 3 binder has CHINA on it. It's best to step up to Crosby. Excellent content.
Sadly, the chinky stuff works just fine.
You should chock and vehicle with wheels , just extra safety measures. And should explain direct and indirect.
Buy American chain and binders
Add... Refuse cheap loads from cheap brokers
What size chains do you use
5/16" grade 70
A lot of 5/16 for skid steers; 3/8 for Backhoes & Excavators - not the big boys, I may go bigger, but don't typically haul them...
50% in all directions must be US regulation. In Europe you need 80% forward and 50% sideways and back. Europe makes more sence. things om wheels need to be strapped by the wheel
1/2 inch there bud
1/2 inch what?
Made in CHINA