Sir Thank you for the information. I do have to say You are the one RUclipsr that thoroughly explained the length of the rod or what rod to use! Of all the videos I've seen with this mod, no one mentioned it. I didn't know what length rod to buy or use! This will save me a ton of time and money. I had one established tuber say that he "Cut and threaded" the original arm but skiped over What I think is the most crucial part of how it was done. Thank you again.
Thanks, this inspired me to finally move my Bruiser's servo to the front. I should have done it years ago. I've had it since '95 lol It was long overdue! Around '97, I put a suspension lift on by replacing the shackle U-bolts with some regular bolts, so I could do it. Then I put a 3/8 body lift on it too. That solved all my body rub issues after I put wheels/tires on it from a Nikko Night Rage truck (like thor), they work really nice on there, and the tires are a good compound. No problem getting traction at all. I wish I had a better camera, and knew how to make good videos, I'd love to show her off. I stay away from facebook, so that's not an option.
Here ya go. This is the link to the 12 mm hex conversion. store.rc4wd.com/12mm-Hex-conversion-kit-for-Tamiya-Bruiser-2012_p_2504.html. Yes, it says for the Bruiser....but remember....this truck is a Bruiser clone. It works.
Hi, nice mod! I will rebuild mine as you did. The 12 mm hex conversion, where to find them? They look really nice and doesn't seem to add any width to the car, which some of them out there does.
This is a great mod. I followed exactly what you did but when I came to connect the rod to the servo and knuckle, I found the rod was about a half inch too long, even after screwing the adjusters in as far as possible. Not sure why my build is different to yours, but I guess I will have to source a shorter connecting rod. Thanks anyway for the video.
Hey Bernard.....I mounted the servo to the front metal plate with some servo mounts.....as close to the driverside frame rail as I could get it (according to my servo mount)....make sure the servo is facing to the rear....and the servo arm is to the left side.....if its to the center....yes you would need a shorter arm. If you look close (around the 4:00 mark).....you can see the servo arm hanging down and in the position that I have it.
On a side note. I'm a follower of pur guy Jevries. But I found your vids as well..I'm building a c10 axial hydraulic lowrider. Can u email me some of your ideas on the lowriders or do u still have any
Sir Thank you for the information. I do have to say You are the one RUclipsr that thoroughly explained the length of the rod or what rod to use! Of all the videos I've seen with this mod, no one mentioned it. I didn't know what length rod to buy or use! This will save me a ton of time and money. I had one established tuber say that he "Cut and threaded" the original arm but skiped over What I think is the most crucial part of how it was done. Thank you again.
Thanks for clarification of how this mod is actually achieved
Thanks, this inspired me to finally move my Bruiser's servo to the front. I should have done it years ago. I've had it since '95 lol It was long overdue!
Around '97, I put a suspension lift on by replacing the shackle U-bolts with some regular bolts, so I could do it. Then I put a 3/8 body lift on it too. That solved all my body rub issues after I put wheels/tires on it from a Nikko Night Rage truck (like thor), they work really nice on there, and the tires are a good compound. No problem getting traction at all. I wish I had a better camera, and knew how to make good videos, I'd love to show her off. I stay away from facebook, so that's not an option.
instablaster...
Nice to see new stuff
I was going to move the axle mount but stripped the screw, have to do this way now.
Here ya go. This is the link to the 12 mm hex conversion. store.rc4wd.com/12mm-Hex-conversion-kit-for-Tamiya-Bruiser-2012_p_2504.html. Yes, it says for the Bruiser....but remember....this truck is a Bruiser clone. It works.
For your lowrider rc's you should add welder stricker flints so you can throw sparks while scraping.
Hi, nice mod! I will rebuild mine as you did. The 12 mm hex conversion, where to find them? They look really nice and doesn't seem to add any width to the car, which some of them out there does.
BRO FINALLY UPLOADED
Wait... Your ALIVE
This is a great mod. I followed exactly what you did but when I came to connect the rod to the servo and knuckle, I found the rod was about a half inch too long, even after screwing the adjusters in as far as possible. Not sure why my build is different to yours, but I guess I will have to source a shorter connecting rod. Thanks anyway for the video.
Hey Bernard.....I mounted the servo to the front metal plate with some servo mounts.....as close to the driverside frame rail as I could get it (according to my servo mount)....make sure the servo is facing to the rear....and the servo arm is to the left side.....if its to the center....yes you would need a shorter arm. If you look close (around the 4:00 mark).....you can see the servo arm hanging down and in the position that I have it.
@@Wolfangel37 Thanks for your reply. Am going to try again later. I expect the problem is with me rather than the mod.
Merry Christmas.
On a side note. I'm a follower of pur guy Jevries. But I found your vids as well..I'm building a c10 axial hydraulic lowrider. Can u email me some of your ideas on the lowriders or do u still have any
Thanks for this idea. What did you mount your servo with? It looks like some kind of aluminum bracket.
WHERE CAN I BUY ONE OF THOSE C10
Nice method. Any updates on the truck?
can i pay you to do mine?