I’ve been eyeing one of these kits for awhile, but it’s hard to justify the expense and lack of instructions of any kind is another downside. Since I don’t do much competing, the stock chassis will be just fine for my Sendero! Appreciate the video though, well done as always!
I've got an Ecto and have thought about flat rails but the Gatekeeper Kit was on sale so I decided to start with that. I haven't decided which conversion to use and I'm Really glad to see this one 'in action'. Thanks! I think I want to keep the trailing arms. I wanted an Interior for my Ecto and the one from the Gatekeeper kit will work Great.
The Titan chassis was a fantastic upgrade to the sendero. I've used it for a few friendly comps and it performed very well. I Added some good wheels, tires ,and foams and a good winch and went from there. The factory servo is definitely a weak point. Great review thank you!
TGH manufacturers the cross braces for HCRC. The panhard is a Gspeed G-MP. The sticker should have been with the PH. The link is SS and intended to be the steering link.
Looks good, if perhaps a bit challenging to someone not very experienced. Currently enjoying my Gatekeeper, with a few mods: a bit of brass, Holmes servo, tires, and shock mounts.
Nice upgrades! I have a stock Ecto and a modified Ecto, and I really enjoy the trailing arms on the stock Ecto for my type of crawling. Interested in your results with your comp build.
i went a different route - with Element kit 2 - and the SOR Graphics LCG kit for it - this way it is a class 1 rig - with great TEAM shocks and high clearance links in the kit already - it is a good start - added a -25 % knk overdrive to the stealth - and a front motor mount from InTheworks -(the spur is in front and the stealth is acting as a divorced transfer )- ssd pro44 universals with their brass knuckles gives a very good steering angle - copperhead and a 2700 HH PULLER STUBY ,HH 800 servo - i am very happy with the combo - the SOR kit really make a difference in the rig capabilities -
Cool conversion, lots of potential and interested to see where you take this! 👍 I really wish manufacturers would include instructions, though. Even someone as experienced as you, Josh, was winging it at times. Just show some consideration for less experienced builders. At the very least, post a video and put the link in the packaging (just print it on one of the header cards). 👍
I got the Ecto, this does have me thinking though. As of right now, the thing I've done is take the springs off the shocks, to get that center of gravity, which helps a lot!
That's a cool build. I have been thinking about doing a element built. Just have not jumped on it. I will say that the front end looks to stretched out. The axle I mean. Compared to the rear. I dont know if there is a point to that. I may pick up some sort of element kit or rtr soon. Make my own comp truck. I built 1... then sold it. Because I wanted a vs4-10 origin, which I love. All in time.
I keep a small piece of tape on my 1.5 driver to use as stopping point. First used for Capra, (Vader skid not as wide) but if I stop like 1/8” before tape and hand drive it in evenly afterwards
Thanks for all your great videos. I'm new to crawling but been racing rc since mid 80's always trying to go faster now im trying to go slower. currently have a axial capra grand daughter drives and now a Vanquish Phoenix both have been awesome but I'm not loving the look of the phoenix body tho working on going to the origin half cab ether do a roll bar or really want to cut top off and do a cage. your videos have inspired to try welding up a cage since i weld stainless and have welder. still trying to get more info on whats the best fill rod and tubing to use. not sure if i can weld brake tubing or what solid rod to use dont want drop a ton of weight on it. Thanks again love your channel
3/16” diameter tubing is what you want ideally. Brake line is nice and thin but not very strong. Also you need to strip the coating of course but as a welder I’m sure you’re more than aware! Check out ScaleMetalSupplies.com for all kinds of stuff, including 3/16” DOM tubing which is the best option. As for filler, are you TIG welding? If so, I highly recommend Silcon Bronze filler. It’s technically TIG brazing but is perfect for our scale.
I have the spare parts and just need a chassis. I’m thinking of trying the Artful Dodgers Groundfox chassis. It looks more complete and seems to lower the cg of the transmission.
i would trim the little tabs off the rear body mount, drill another set of holes in the back of the frame, then move the mount forward about a half inch. that would make the body position look a lot better, and make the front bumper stick out less.
I’d rather have the battery lower in the battery tray than higher up but forward. Down low is first priority. A slider mounted battery is probably my ideal setup.
@@HarleyDesignsInc I like the battery on the slider too but my ecto has the battery up next to the servo. They're only 500-650 mah packs and it seems to work good
I've seen one of those 70mm spacers between the upper shock mounts. Would that stiffen the frame a little? Maybe you could print something that would slid on that spacer for the front body mount. Kind of a twisted figure eight? I could see that piece being used in lots of situations.
The spacer won’t work on the shock mounts in the front or rear on mine. The front has a servo in the way and in the rear it would interfere with the body. With more body trimming, anything is possible of course.
Hey Josh, thanks for the video. I bought 2 of those TGH bumpers, and never used them, went with something else, but you said you need what size tool to use the included set screws….. 0.5mm???,. That made me just check my tools. Smallest MIP tool I have is 1.5mm. Are you sure that isn’t 1.0mm needed, I don’t know
@@HarleyDesignsInc Oh, .05 inches, thank you, and thanks for the video. Was hoping to see you at Knights Ferry Ca this spring, before it got hot. I might have to try and get to Folsom some time.
Without any instructions I wouldn't bother. Especially if new links are required. Sounds like a lot of guess work and trial and error. Looks very cool though
That's the difference than an actual "build" and "assembling" something like an Axial builder's kit. These "kits" are still designed with a builder in mind, they just give you all the necessities in one place. But a "built" truck is built to the specific driving style and preferences of the builder, so all of that unknown and unincluded stuff is because 10 guys might want to finish their build 10 different ways. It's definitely not something that typically goes together quickly or without a lot of thought.
That's just how G speed does stuff Josh they'll give you whatever they have in stock regardless of who makes it, if its Gspeed product and hes out of stock, They'll give you product from whoever else he works with that's available at the time and most of there stuffs all the same quality just re-branded.. and yes never any instructions, guys like us obviously wouldn't need any but it would be nice for folks who are new to the scene and inexperienced. Although Gabe usually has a RUclips video up with vague instructions...
Harley University Dept of Design and Engineering. Admissions only $200K. Alumni include SORRCA winners, WRCCA winners, SCOTUS Justices, and Kevin Hunter himself!
Its too bad a beginner would be lost without proper instructions. But i think the body needs to be moved forward, and the chassis rails may need to be shortened. I like the look of the kit though.
Josh can I send you an upgrade to replace that chassis? 🤣😂 my sponsor RAD ROCKS R/C would love to see you build one They’re based on element chassis, both c1 and c2 I see you don’t have a element c1 rig, time to build one 😬
Love your videos, just saying. But on this video yeah I have to completely disagree I think everything you did was pretty much just Overkill I've got the same rig and she's amazing. I've done the axle servo mount, fusion 1200, Dumbo RC receiver and controller, hyrax or factory either / or are good tires, a front metal grill with light kit, a few weights in the front and some tire weights and that's it and my guy runs like a champ. ❤ And not to mention to top it off it sounded like there was a lot missing that you are going to have to make accommodations for in this build. If I had to do all that extra work I wouldn't have bought the parts I would have just made them myself LOL.
@@HarleyDesignsInc My faith is restored! You and Matt kill it. Would be cool to see Crawler Canyon on one of your take overs! This video says it all. He’s a beast!ruclips.net/video/3vuyxyKETj4/видео.html
No instructions and you have to guess, where everything goes is a hard pass! Just make a complete kit, with everything you need and instructions and I would have bought it..
It’s actually a benefit to the rigidity of the chassis. This is super common in aftermarket chassis like this. Give the chassis some taper helps to triangulate and take away the parallelogram type mushiness that you can get without it.
TEAM KNK BLACK OXIDE HARDWARE KIT
Front bumper hardware - (4) M3x8
TGH DSM & GSPEED G-MP hardware - (4) M3x8, (2) M3x10, (1) M3x20, (1) 2mm aluminum spacer (optional draglink spacer)
Upper shock mount hardware (4) M3x20, (4) M3 nyloc nuts, (4) 5mm aluminum spacers
Front upper link hardware (1) M3x14, M3 nyloc nut
Vader skid mounting hardware (4) M3x14
Rear upper link hardware (2) M3x16, (2) M3 nyloc nuts, (2) 2mm aluminum spacers
Rear chassis brace hardware (2) M3x8
Rear bumper mount hardware (4) M3x8
(1) 6mm aluminum panhard link spacer
I’ve been eyeing one of these kits for awhile, but it’s hard to justify the expense and lack of instructions of any kind is another downside. Since I don’t do much competing, the stock chassis will be just fine for my Sendero! Appreciate the video though, well done as always!
You don’t need instructions, it’s not that hard lmfao
“Mom!!!! What’s hot dog down a hallway mean?!”
I've got an Ecto and have thought about flat rails but the Gatekeeper Kit was on sale so I decided to start with that. I haven't decided which conversion to use and I'm Really glad to see this one 'in action'. Thanks! I think I want to keep the trailing arms.
I wanted an Interior for my Ecto and the one from the Gatekeeper kit will work Great.
The Titan chassis was a fantastic upgrade to the sendero. I've used it for a few friendly comps and it performed very well. I Added some good wheels, tires ,and foams and a good winch and went from there. The factory servo is definitely a weak point. Great review thank you!
TGH manufacturers the cross braces for HCRC. The panhard is a Gspeed G-MP. The sticker should have been with the PH. The link is SS and intended to be the steering link.
Appreciate your video on this TGH chassis, bought one at King Of Missouri last weekend. Keep up the awesome videos.
Looks good, if perhaps a bit challenging to someone not very experienced. Currently enjoying my Gatekeeper, with a few mods: a bit of brass, Holmes servo, tires, and shock mounts.
Would be awesome to see a comparison running video between this and a comparable ecto on stock ecto chassis
Unfortunately I probably won’t be buying a second Ecto for that 😁
Nice upgrades! I have a stock Ecto and a modified Ecto, and I really enjoy the trailing arms on the stock Ecto for my type of crawling. Interested in your results with your comp build.
i went a different route - with Element kit 2 - and the SOR Graphics LCG kit for it - this way it is a class 1 rig - with great TEAM shocks and high clearance links in the kit already - it is a good start - added a -25 % knk overdrive to the stealth - and a front motor mount from InTheworks -(the spur is in front and the stealth is acting as a divorced transfer )- ssd pro44 universals with their brass knuckles gives a very good steering angle - copperhead and a 2700 HH PULLER STUBY ,HH 800 servo - i am very happy with the combo - the SOR kit really make a difference in the rig capabilities -
Finally getting a titan chassis! Will need to order all the support parts to finish build.
Cool conversion, lots of potential and interested to see where you take this! 👍 I really wish manufacturers would include instructions, though. Even someone as experienced as you, Josh, was winging it at times. Just show some consideration for less experienced builders. At the very least, post a video and put the link in the packaging (just print it on one of the header cards). 👍
what are the lengths of those rear links??? I'm thinking about starting a class 1 build with the titan chassis later this year.
I got the Ecto, this does have me thinking though. As of right now, the thing I've done is take the springs off the shocks, to get that center of gravity, which helps a lot!
Those SSD Brass Knuckles add just enough forward weight. I love 'em.
CARSFORHIRE
The different wheelbase makes the body look pushed back. Should try to move that rear body mount forward
I noticed that while editing the video.
That's a cool build.
I have been thinking about doing a element built.
Just have not jumped on it.
I will say that the front end looks to stretched out.
The axle I mean.
Compared to the rear.
I dont know if there is a point to that.
I may pick up some sort of element kit or rtr soon.
Make my own comp truck.
I built 1... then sold it.
Because I wanted a vs4-10 origin, which I love.
All in time.
Yeah I would pick one up since it's a kit and a popular brand.
I had the gatekeeper sold it good truck... but turning ratio was terrible switched the steering links to the front big difference
My best friend, Enjoyed watching this video my friend Really awesome views Thank you Stay connected
I keep a small piece of tape on my 1.5 driver to use as stopping point. First used for Capra, (Vader skid not as wide) but if I stop like 1/8” before tape and hand drive it in evenly afterwards
Hmmm. I have a Trailrunner that I have been looking to make into a project. Thanks for the ideas!
Doing a similar build at the moment. I ended up taking about 20mm off the chassis
I have a sendero build kit and yes, i have considered it.
Great looking build! I always enjoy watching your videos and scale builders while I work on my RC's. Helps with motivation.
Thanks for all your great videos. I'm new to crawling but been racing rc since mid 80's always trying to go faster now im trying to go slower. currently have a axial capra grand daughter drives and now a Vanquish Phoenix both have been awesome but I'm not loving the look of the phoenix body tho working on going to the origin half cab ether do a roll bar or really want to cut top off and do a cage. your videos have inspired to try welding up a cage since i weld stainless and have welder. still trying to get more info on whats the best fill rod and tubing to use. not sure if i can weld brake tubing or what solid rod to use dont want drop a ton of weight on it. Thanks again love your channel
3/16” diameter tubing is what you want ideally. Brake line is nice and thin but not very strong. Also you need to strip the coating of course but as a welder I’m sure you’re more than aware!
Check out ScaleMetalSupplies.com for all kinds of stuff, including 3/16” DOM tubing which is the best option.
As for filler, are you TIG welding? If so, I highly recommend Silcon Bronze filler. It’s technically TIG brazing but is perfect for our scale.
That's a series I'll be happy to watch SIR ✌🏼
Looks like MORR’S OFF-ROAD WRECKER 👌🏽👌🏽
Dude! For real!
Thanks for doing this. I'm comp style truck curious but it's a hard world to decipher.
Ah comp curious, some people go thru that in their college days.
@@HarleyDesignsInc I'm a late bloomer
Looks like Matt’s off-road recovery truck
I have the spare parts and just need a chassis. I’m thinking of trying the Artful Dodgers Groundfox chassis. It looks more complete and seems to lower the cg of the transmission.
I believe Matt is going to release a video on it soon.
i would trim the little tabs off the rear body mount, drill another set of holes in the back of the frame, then move the mount forward about a half inch. that would make the body position look a lot better, and make the front bumper stick out less.
Repositioning the body may be something I do. I may just draw a new brace and print it.
I was thinking the same thing.
Take your esc off that mount and put your small battery up next to the servo. Mount your esc and receiver in the cut up stock battery tray.
I’d rather have the battery lower in the battery tray than higher up but forward. Down low is first priority. A slider mounted battery is probably my ideal setup.
@@HarleyDesignsInc I like the battery on the slider too but my ecto has the battery up next to the servo. They're only 500-650 mah packs and it seems to work good
Good idea putting the rod ends in.
I have an Ecto I've never even driven. I may look into this.
Well that’s one way to get it into circulation 😁
G speed sells body post holders. But imo the currupt carbon works unicorn mount is goat
Josh, if you look at the page for the chassis that you link, it lists out what all the hardware is used for. So you really didn't need to guess.
I saw that after, although hardware length isn’t what I would be worried about more for new builders.
Great clip Harley, that body seems to be sitting a little far back
kinda looks like the one they are building at Matt's Off Road Recovery channel
I'm glancing at the Artful Dodgers Groundfox for a Elemtnt build. I kan take the rear links from my Knightrunner and put the GKS on that.
It looks like a nice kit as well.
Gspeed sliders will fit with a little modding
I’m not sure I need any but I may just draw some up and print them if I change my mind.
i think the 5th taller spacer is for the panhard to clear the servo horn
University of California needs to award you an Honorary Doctorate in Engineering Education. I got an MA in Ed from Oxford, so I should know…
I've seen one of those 70mm spacers between the upper shock mounts. Would that stiffen the frame a little?
Maybe you could print something that would slid on that spacer for the front body mount. Kind of a twisted figure eight? I could see that piece being used in lots of situations.
The spacer won’t work on the shock mounts in the front or rear on mine. The front has a servo in the way and in the rear it would interfere with the body. With more body trimming, anything is possible of course.
Hey Josh, thanks for the video. I bought 2 of those TGH bumpers, and never used them, went with something else, but you said you need what size tool to use the included set screws….. 0.5mm???,. That made me just check my tools. Smallest MIP tool I have is 1.5mm. Are you sure that isn’t 1.0mm needed, I don’t know
.050” driver. Standard size.
@@HarleyDesignsInc Oh, .05 inches, thank you, and thanks for the video. Was hoping to see you at Knights Ferry Ca this spring, before it got hot. I might have to try and get to Folsom some time.
I’m wanting to get rid of my ecto trailing arms and replace them with high clearance links, how could I find some?
Well I'd like to know what links did you use for the bottom chasing what measurements please
Be nice to see how it compares against a comp truck with just a wheel and tyre change.
Without comps in mind, what performs better, 3 link w/panhard and SOC, or 4 link w/SOA?
4 Link with SOA will be superior. The weight is lower, there is direct linkage, and no possible losses from non-optimal geometry.
@HarleyDesignsInc thanks, in the middle of changing ecto over to soa now.
"Hot dog down a hallway feeling"!!!! lmao!!!!
Josh = Comp Life Thug.,,,, cause the Comp Life choose him!!!! 😂 thanks Josh, great video
Mount it become to light in the bottom and is it that better than the stock ecto?!
Reducing weight in the chassis is a good thing. You want to keep the truck light weight. Adding weight only as absolutely needed.
The ecto is comp worthy out of the box!
While it could comp, it’s not a competitive truck out of the box but nothing really is.
@@HarleyDesignsInc it's the closest thing to comp worthy we have ever seen in an rtr though.
Great videos! Where did you get that hat?! Love it!
Is it just me? Or does that front axle sit a lot farther forward?
I'm still waiting for my links from Hardcore rc links to put on my trx4 axles.
4 link,in the front?
Am I the only one who sees Matt's worlds largest offroad wrecker that he's currently building?
I want this kit
I wouldn't mind using that chassis on a gatekeeper
Without any instructions I wouldn't bother. Especially if new links are required. Sounds like a lot of guess work and trial and error. Looks very cool though
This is what puts me off LCG builds. Even when you buy a kit it doesn't come with what it should and doesn't go together properly.
That's the difference than an actual "build" and "assembling" something like an Axial builder's kit. These "kits" are still designed with a builder in mind, they just give you all the necessities in one place. But a "built" truck is built to the specific driving style and preferences of the builder, so all of that unknown and unincluded stuff is because 10 guys might want to finish their build 10 different ways. It's definitely not something that typically goes together quickly or without a lot of thought.
That's just how G speed does stuff Josh they'll give you whatever they have in stock regardless of who makes it, if its Gspeed product and hes out of stock, They'll give you product from whoever else he works with that's available at the time and most of there stuffs all the same quality just re-branded.. and yes never any instructions, guys like us obviously wouldn't need any but it would be nice for folks who are new to the scene and inexperienced. Although Gabe usually has a RUclips video up with vague instructions...
Documentation is something that needs to be considered. They don’t have to be full on manuals, but a little bit goes a long way.
@@HarleyDesignsInc 100% agree
@@HarleyDesignsInc Just a generic exploded view online would be good.
Hi buddy I'm sure ROCK PIRATES have sliders for the ecto. 🇬🇧🇺🇲🕊️✌🏼🤩🤙🏼
They do but they're heavy. It'd negate half the point of the conversion.
What about that rear drive line angle?????? What is to steep??
Hey i got a notification to hit you up on some type of shortlist winner how do i claim that prize
I do have this chassis on my current build . Got it because it said a direct replacement. How wrong was I 🤣
Definitely easier than most flat rail builds, but just needs a little more documentation.
@@HarleyDesignsInc 100% , I ended up looking on their website and copy the photos
Front axles seemed pretty far forward with the stock ecto body.
The body is moved 10mm back on this kit I was told today. I’ll be making some new body mounts to correct it.
I added a Vanquish Chassis kit to my Enduro. I prefer the more rigged chassis.
Great video 👍😎👍
Harley University Dept of Design and Engineering. Admissions only $200K. Alumni include SORRCA winners, WRCCA winners, SCOTUS Justices, and Kevin Hunter himself!
I get. Notifications but no bell
For a kit specific conversion this seems to have alot of "eh ya'll can figure it out" going on...
Its too bad a beginner would be lost without proper instructions. But i think the body needs to be moved forward, and the chassis rails may need to be shortened. I like the look of the kit though.
Josh can I send you an upgrade to replace that chassis? 🤣😂 my sponsor RAD ROCKS R/C would love to see you build one
They’re based on element chassis, both c1 and c2
I see you don’t have a element c1 rig, time to build one 😬
That's the other kit I've been looking at with their Forward Motor Mount.
Met Mr. Shultz this last weekend at knk and the green ecto will be mine oh yes it will be mine…
It’s a good color!
Love your videos, just saying. But on this video yeah I have to completely disagree I think everything you did was pretty much just Overkill I've got the same rig and she's amazing. I've done the axle servo mount, fusion 1200, Dumbo RC receiver and controller, hyrax or factory either / or are good tires, a front metal grill with light kit, a few weights in the front and some tire weights and that's it and my guy runs like a champ. ❤
And not to mention to top it off it sounded like there was a lot missing that you are going to have to make accommodations for in this build. If I had to do all that extra work I wouldn't have bought the parts I would have just made them myself LOL.
thank you for the disclaimer... though paid promotions make me leery.
The wallet was the paid promotion, not the chassis 😁
@@HarleyDesignsInc My faith is restored! You and Matt kill it. Would be cool to see Crawler Canyon on one of your take overs! This video says it all. He’s a beast!ruclips.net/video/3vuyxyKETj4/видео.html
🤘🎃🤘no limits🤘🥞🤘
It’s not a direct replacement unfortunately
The body placement is way off looks really goofy.
Salut my friend super car super video subscribe subscribe...
No instructions and you have to guess, where everything goes is a hard pass!
Just make a complete kit, with everything you need and instructions and I would have bought it..
the chassis being under stress when you put it together is a deal breaker .... terrible design
It’s actually a benefit to the rigidity of the chassis. This is super common in aftermarket chassis like this. Give the chassis some taper helps to triangulate and take away the parallelogram type mushiness that you can get without it.
Looks like you need to move the body forward just a bit.
Yup, I’ll make some new mounts to correct the position since the locations were moved back 10mm.