Man I'm glad you showed me this. I hate assembling and disassembling a ton of times. My nerves are already in pieces on assembly. This my first 383 build. Hoping to do this myself. Hate paying my machine shop for stuff I can do
Steve I have SBC performance motor with the clearance already taken in consideration by GM. I had to rebuild it recently because of a knock. Pulled ot apart and it spun a bearing. Bored it .025 over to make it a 4.030 inch bore because that's a common bore size in the 383 world. Mind you my block was already a 383 with a 4.005 inch bore from the factory 3.8 inch crank. So another. 025 inch bore made it fall in that piston size as all the other 383 motors that people build with a smaller 400 ci then the 3.8 inch crank I had to make up the cubic inches ot would need to make it a 383. I kept that crank had the journals check and polished. Rebalanced it and according to the machinist and information he gave me I purchased the bearings. Same size bearings as before same type of bearing that was in it before. If it spun a bearing can you get away with just a polish. It it didn't seem like it hurt it if any but I'm not the machinist I had to just trust him. I crank it up for the first time and it sounds as if the torque converter is lose. I crawl under it and checked them and no they were tight. The noise I'm here doesn't sound like a bearing knock. It sounds just like a lose torque converter but up front. You know as well as I how sound can be deceiving. I found it to travel from one side to the next and had everyone confused were it originated from. This sound as if it's right there around the timing chain. Just looking for some advice ro hopefully save me some more blood sweat and tears. The heads are fast burn heads which I find the best set of heads that GM has ever produced. They flow better then any other GM head out there. Especially after I ported polished and decked the lid. My compression now is 10 to 1 according to the machinist but it could be a little more then that from the head gaskets and head shave will create. Nevertheless I'm not trying to create alot of compression because of the plans for an adder. Can the bottom of the piston skirt ever cause clearance issues? The rod bolts are different then the last ones too. To be honest I might have just answered my own question. The rod bolts are possibly hitting the block. Because it's not your typical bearing knock. It lower in pitch and not that loud. Still has me nervous as hell! I'll pull the pan and post the results.
Chris Ahrens. You never mentioned what the bearing clearance was on the mains and rods? You didn't mention crankshaft end play? Was it a spun rod bearing or main bearing? Did you resize the connecting rod if it was a rod bearing spun? If it was a main bearing , did you lign bore the block? Too many unanswered questions.
Different years of blocks will need more or less die grinder work. I used a 1989 4 bolt 350 block that was pretty easy to work over for rod clearance. I didn't use any more than 1 hour to clearance the block for the rods
Great video dude! Subscribed. Question though, do you happen to know if I can safely take off enough to clear the water jacket of an LS7 block with stock sleeves? I have eagle 6.125 rods (CRS6125O3DL19 non stroker clearance) & pistons with forged eagle 4.0" stroke. Summit said it should work but didn't say anything about the clearance issue I ran into.
@@reyracerit'd be easier to show you. Made a video of the interface and commented about the size. ruclips.net/video/E1SGSRrcHVo/видео.html A right triangle that is 0.485 x 0.661 needs to be removed. ls1tech.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/LS7-Cutaway-3.jpg water jacket cutaways show more than enough clearance for the water jacket i think.
@@reyracer Hey thanks a ton Rey Racer. I knew the 406 but wanted to know for sure about the 383. I kinda thought I would have to but hey I'm 51 years old. Been doing this since I was 18 and I still learn new things. Great video. I'll be putting some out real soon. I'm building a 383 and a 496 so I'll do some video. Thanks for your response. I'll subscribe. 👍
Man I'm glad you showed me this. I hate assembling and disassembling a ton of times. My nerves are already in pieces on assembly. This my first 383 build. Hoping to do this myself. Hate paying my machine shop for stuff I can do
I am in the same boat
Steve I have SBC performance motor with the clearance already taken in consideration by GM. I had to rebuild it recently because of a knock. Pulled ot apart and it spun a bearing. Bored it .025 over to make it a 4.030 inch bore because that's a common bore size in the 383 world. Mind you my block was already a 383 with a 4.005 inch bore from the factory 3.8 inch crank. So another. 025 inch bore made it fall in that piston size as all the other 383 motors that people build with a smaller 400 ci then the 3.8 inch crank I had to make up the cubic inches ot would need to make it a 383. I kept that crank had the journals check and polished. Rebalanced it and according to the machinist and information he gave me I purchased the bearings. Same size bearings as before same type of bearing that was in it before.
If it spun a bearing can you get away with just a polish. It it didn't seem like it hurt it if any but I'm not the machinist I had to just trust him. I crank it up for the first time and it sounds as if the torque converter is lose. I crawl under it and checked them and no they were tight. The noise I'm here doesn't sound like a bearing knock. It sounds just like a lose torque converter but up front. You know as well as I how sound can be deceiving. I found it to travel from one side to the next and had everyone confused were it originated from. This sound as if it's right there around the timing chain. Just looking for some advice ro hopefully save me some more blood sweat and tears. The heads are fast burn heads which I find the best set of heads that GM has ever produced. They flow better then any other GM head out there. Especially after I ported polished and decked the lid. My compression now is 10 to 1 according to the machinist but it could be a little more then that from the head gaskets and head shave will create. Nevertheless I'm not trying to create alot of compression because of the plans for an adder.
Can the bottom of the piston skirt ever cause clearance issues? The rod bolts are different then the last ones too. To be honest I might have just answered my own question. The rod bolts are possibly hitting the block. Because it's not your typical bearing knock. It lower in pitch and not that loud. Still has me nervous as hell! I'll pull the pan and post the results.
Chris Ahrens. You never mentioned what the bearing clearance was on the mains and rods? You didn't mention crankshaft end play? Was it a spun rod bearing or main bearing? Did you resize the connecting rod if it was a rod bearing spun? If it was a main bearing , did you lign bore the block? Too many unanswered questions.
Chris Ahrens. You can also find me on Facebook under Reys Engines
Different years of blocks will need more or less die grinder work.
I used a 1989 4 bolt 350 block that was pretty easy to work over for rod clearance.
I didn't use any more than 1 hour to clearance the block for the rods
You may have to grind the bottom of cyls. And some stroker cranks hit the block by the oil filter with the last crank throw .
Old blocks rust out and chip open to the water jacket. Mine did. Lower part now hard filled, not good for street use.
Can you tell me what to use to seal a waterjacket? I grinded in the waterjacket.🙈
You don't describe well what you are measuring for 50 thousandth. Can you clarify that?
Great video dude! Subscribed. Question though, do you happen to know if I can safely take off enough to clear the water jacket of an LS7 block with stock sleeves? I have eagle 6.125 rods (CRS6125O3DL19 non stroker clearance) & pistons with forged eagle 4.0" stroke. Summit said it should work but didn't say anything about the clearance issue I ran into.
Jerico
It depends how much you need to take off. Did you measure ? What areas are touching and how much needs to be removed.
@@reyracerit'd be easier to show you. Made a video of the interface and commented about the size. ruclips.net/video/E1SGSRrcHVo/видео.html
A right triangle that is 0.485 x 0.661 needs to be removed. ls1tech.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/LS7-Cutaway-3.jpg water jacket cutaways show more than enough clearance for the water jacket i think.
hey, great work. do you know how much it is to offset grind 350 crank to 3.53" stroke for 2" rod journals.
Dennis Lewellyn
I do not. Thanks and check out my other videos
@@reyracer thanks for the reply , i am going to 3.55" stroke now. i'll be sure to check em out. kool later.
If you want to run a 6 inch rod do you have to get different pistons than the 5 7 rods with different wrist pin locations? Thanks
Bowtied One, yes if you are running longer rods, you will have to order Pistons for the 6inch rods
@@reyracer Hey thanks a ton Rey Racer. I knew the 406 but wanted to know for sure about the 383. I kinda thought I would have to but hey I'm 51 years old. Been doing this since I was 18 and I still learn new things. Great video. I'll be putting some out real soon. I'm building a 383 and a 496 so I'll do some video. Thanks for your response. I'll subscribe. 👍