Enjoyed that, took me back to the first SBC I built. my neighbor seen what I was doing and came over and started helped, He was retired and didn't know him at all, turns out he had been an engine builded for a speed shop back in the day. I learned so much, he pulled tools out I had only seen in magazines at the time. This would have been in 1979 Thanks
I'm glad I ran across this video, I haven't built an engine for about 15 years and I already knew all this stuff back then when I was messing with it. I totally forgot that the block has to be clearanced for a 400 crank. Ok, I can't say I ever did this back then, but I had a 400 sbc and from my memory they have a cut out spot on the bottom of the cylinder right there where you guys clearanced the 350 block. I'm panning on building an engine for a turbo in the near future, and a 383 scat brand rotating assembly is the cheapest option that comes with forged pistons and cap screw rods. So thats why I'm watching your video. thanks for sharing this video.
Thank you for checking it out. I’ve had some delays w this engine because we are building a house etc anyway long story but I can’t wait to get back to it. Hopefully we did a good job. The guys at the engine / machine shop said it looked really good so that made me feel better. Now on to big decisions like what heads what cam!!! Fun stuff ahead. Good luck with your build and thanks again for checking out the video.
Awesome video I'm in The works of Doing a Stroker as well. And 327 and 454. But when I was first learning. My teacher told me. Do not touch the bearings with your oily fingers.😎
Great job!!!.I'm ready to stroker clearance my block.i have a one piece rear main seal also.oem roller block.i bought scat stroker rods 6 inch with scat stroker crank.hope I get lucky lol.great job brother I enjoyed your video
Hey Dennis. Yes, I purchased a rotating assembly from Skip White Performance. The part number is RA-482A3-4000. It has a Scat crank and rods with Wiseco pistons. Check out this video on my channel and I walk through each of the parts and some of the upgrades I did which are available through Skip White. ruclips.net/video/4Iy64usBUHk/видео.html. Hope this helps. JD
Bearing tang locates the bearing in the bore ,the crush or difference in the I.d. of the main or rod bore vs the o.d. of the main or rod bearing installed is what holds it from spinning.
Scat rods are the best chance of no clearance issues they work really well in strokers with regular cams, worse case a small base circle cam will fix it
@@JDOffline okay good! The block looked really good then when I saw the deck I was like “oh no!” I’m glad you got it taken care of. Are there more videos of the progress?
Did you guys check the piston skirts at bottom dead center of the stroke? If skirt hangs out of the bores, the pistons will rock at bottom of the stroke and you will lose Ring seal and vacuum/compression.
Those spots your talking about is what sticks out past the outside of the heads when there on, nothing goes there when engine is built and is left exposed its just not noticeable in car or truck usually cause its coated in oil and dirt . Looks crappy if left alone but doesn't effect anything on the rebuild.
@@JDOffline Typically a hot tank in a detergent solution followed by a hot tank in a caustic solution if still dirty. Then they will glass bead it all to clean it the rest of the way and bake it right afterward. Last step is to blow it all out with compressed air.
be sure to balance all the rotating assembly with your balancer and flexplate and rings and locks etc. and keep the placement they were in when balanced, even though each piece is balanced individually also and weight matched prior to balancing.
Hey man, can't you keep those mouth breather away? Lol, just joking. Love dogs. Love the series, hope to find a camaro in need of help without blowing a ton of money. This is what I have wanted to do including the 383.🤟
Hey Tim, thanks for checking out the video. I've been working a lot on my old square body truck so haven't made much progress on the Camaro recently but I'll get back to it! Can't wait to hear this motor!! JD
@@ReshardsAutomotiveWorkshop Thank you sir. It’s an interesting process and I’m really enjoying learning. In the end I think we will have a really strong engine. I fully understand why they charge what they charge!! Thanks for checking out the video. JD.
@@JDOffline Umm, I am pretty sure Dock Station said you have to pay me. And truthfully it should be double since it takes twice as long since I have to teach you along the way.
You ruined the spriolock by springing it out of shape... That's a no,no! When I install the they look just like they came... The companies will tell you to never use them sprung out of shape. The guy that showed you to do them that way was an idiot!
Well I'm not sure I agree but the true test will be how it runs and if these cause an issue. You criticize but you don't mention how you do it or what makes you qualified to make such a comment...thanks for your opinion. JD
I take a small flat head screw driver to separate the first layer of the spriolock and put my thumb between the layer and start it in the grove holding pressure down on it andspriol it around in the grove with the small screwdriver until it is locked in and make sure it is in secure... I have been doing this for years and I build race motors for guys that put out a lot of Hp! On race has or alcohol... I have professional race car, tune chassis 66 Chevelle, that has a 468 BBC in it on race has, 12.3 comp. It has a Single Barrell carb on it, a SV1... It runs 5.62 et. at 123 mph in the 1/8th mile and 8.82 et. at 152 mph in the 1/4 mile. The car is fast for what it is! Haven't not jetted it yet or changed the total timing. 800 Hp. engine I built myself. 4.86 rear gear. 6,500rpm. convertor. As soon as I get it dialed in it will run in the 5.40 et. range... and the high 8's in the 1/4 mile.. I have not launched it off of the tranny brake yet, so it will run even faster! 60 ft. is 1.26et. and will be faster launched off the trans. brake. Probably a 1.22 et. or better... I am happy with my car, it goes straight and has no body roll. 4 link suspension. I know of know one that has a 468 cu.in. that runs that fast, they maybe one out there. The parts in my engine are over 30 years old, but they are new, Brodix 310 cc heads BB-2 and a round top Brodix intake. On a 383 you got to watch about the rods coming to close to the lobes on the camshaft on certain cylinders. Should have .060" clearance between the lobe and rod. Even with a small base circle cam, sometimes they can be too close with 6" rods. Even though the rods might be stroker clearance. It's safer to check than not. You don't want any problems with your new engine. Too much money involved. Coated bearings are the best for a high performance engine, although the cost is considerably higher, but they will pay off. I hope everything goes well for you, thanks for your reply...
@@leonardfoster6252 Wow Leonard that car sounds awesome! I have heard about the clearance issues between the rods and cam so we will check that. The project will get back on track here shortly, we are building a house and this has delayed progress. Thanks for clarifying and qualifying your initial comment! JD
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Enjoyed that, took me back to the first SBC I built. my neighbor seen what I was doing and came over and started helped, He was retired and didn't know him at all, turns out he had been an engine builded for a speed shop back in the day. I learned so much, he pulled tools out I had only seen in magazines at the time. This would have been in 1979 Thanks
That's a great story Roger. I wish I had a neighbor like that!! Thanks for checking out the video. JD
I'm glad I ran across this video, I haven't built an engine for about 15 years and I already knew all this stuff back then when I was messing with it. I totally forgot that the block has to be clearanced for a 400 crank. Ok, I can't say I ever did this back then, but I had a 400 sbc and from my memory they have a cut out spot on the bottom of the cylinder right there where you guys clearanced the 350 block. I'm panning on building an engine for a turbo in the near future, and a 383 scat brand rotating assembly is the cheapest option that comes with forged pistons and cap screw rods. So thats why I'm watching your video. thanks for sharing this video.
Thank you for checking it out. I’ve had some delays w this engine because we are building a house etc anyway long story but I can’t wait to get back to it. Hopefully we did a good job. The guys at the engine / machine shop said it looked really good so that made me feel better. Now on to big decisions like what heads what cam!!! Fun stuff ahead. Good luck with your build and thanks again for checking out the video.
Silver sharpies work really well on clean metal also
Another good tip!! Thank you again. JD
Awesome video I'm in The works of Doing a Stroker as well. And 327 and 454. But when I was first learning. My teacher told me. Do not touch the bearings with your oily fingers.😎
Good advice for sure. JD
Great job!!!.I'm ready to stroker clearance my block.i have a one piece rear main seal also.oem roller block.i bought scat stroker rods 6 inch with scat stroker crank.hope I get lucky lol.great job brother I enjoyed your video
Awesome, I can't wait to get back to this project and hear that thing thunder. Good luck on your build. JD
Did you you use a 383 kit? If so which one? If not, what rods and pistons did you use?
Hey Dennis. Yes, I purchased a rotating assembly from Skip White Performance. The part number is RA-482A3-4000. It has a Scat crank and rods with Wiseco pistons. Check out this video on my channel and I walk through each of the parts and some of the upgrades I did which are available through Skip White. ruclips.net/video/4Iy64usBUHk/видео.html. Hope this helps. JD
Bearing tang locates the bearing in the bore ,the crush or difference in the I.d. of the main or rod bore vs the o.d. of the main or rod bearing installed is what holds it from spinning.
Thanks Gary. JD
Some of the new bearings barely have a tang so if somebody thought they were to prevent spinning they would be highly confused.
Your other main clearness concern will be the rods and cam lobes
Yes, we will have to look at those once I get the cam. JD
I had cam clearance issues on my 383 but solved them with a small base circle cam.
Scat rods are the best chance of no clearance issues they work really well in strokers with regular cams, worse case a small base circle cam will fix it
Man, that look like some serious scarring on the deck of your block.
Hey Quinn! Yeah I had to have the deck clearanced on the final round of machine work. It's all good now. Good eye!! JD
@@JDOffline okay good! The block looked really good then when I saw the deck I was like “oh no!” I’m glad you got it taken care of. Are there more videos of the progress?
Did you guys check the piston skirts at bottom dead center of the stroke? If skirt hangs out of the bores, the pistons will rock at bottom of the stroke and you will lose Ring seal and vacuum/compression.
Those spots your talking about is what sticks out past the outside of the heads when there on, nothing goes there when engine is built and is left exposed its just not noticeable in car or truck usually cause its coated in oil and dirt . Looks crappy if left alone but doesn't effect anything on the rebuild.
What did you do to get the block so clean to make it it look like it is new metal?
The machine shop cleaned it to make it look like that. There’s a name for that process but I’m not sure what it is. JD
@@JDOffline Typically a hot tank in a detergent solution followed by a hot tank in a caustic solution if still dirty. Then they will glass bead it all to clean it the rest of the way and bake it right afterward. Last step is to blow it all out with compressed air.
be sure to balance all the rotating assembly with your balancer and flexplate and rings and locks etc. and keep the placement they were in when balanced, even though each piece is balanced individually also and weight matched prior to balancing.
The rotating assembly was balanced by Skip White. JD
Yes you also got a new sub
Thank you. JD
@@JDOffline your welcome
Nice info. Tang isnt just a space drink, Its also a mens term for poontang, Tang on brother
Haha....JD
Rod bolt side of Rods that hit the block & Cam.
Bolt caps or head is what hits not the Rods it self.
I think we did a good job with the clearancing. The machine shop said it looked good and we shouldn't have any issues so that made me feel better. JD
Can a 2 bolt main roller block hold a stroker kit
I'm not sure I know the answer to this question. I would lean towards no but that may not be accurate. JD
where did you get the rotating assembly from?
Skip White Racing out of TN. Check them out. JD
Hey man, can't you keep those mouth breather away? Lol, just joking. Love dogs. Love the series, hope to find a camaro in need of help without blowing a ton of money. This is what I have wanted to do including the 383.🤟
Hey Tim, thanks for checking out the video. I've been working a lot on my old square body truck so haven't made much progress on the Camaro recently but I'll get back to it! Can't wait to hear this motor!! JD
WOW
Haha yes we are finally making progress. Thanks for the comment. Stay tuned to the channel for more cool videos! JD
Good work. 😎👍.
Once you build and engine, you can see why engine builders charge $700 to $1000 to assemble an engine. 😅
@@ReshardsAutomotiveWorkshop Thank you sir. It’s an interesting process and I’m really enjoying learning. In the end I think we will have a really strong engine. I fully understand why they charge what they charge!! Thanks for checking out the video. JD.
@@JDOffline you got a new sub
@@JWD_Customs Awesome. Thank you. JD
I don't have any problem installing them just like they came...
Thanks.
@@JDOffline your welcome...
The reason why there is more clearance on one side and they other is because of core shift...
Thanks.
Once you build an engine, you understand why builders charge $700 to $1000 to assemble an engine. 😅
100% agreed. JD
You mean I can charge John for this???
@@mattodonnell9182 No Matt that's not what he meant!! Haha. JD
@@JDOffline Umm, I am pretty sure Dock Station said you have to pay me. And truthfully it should be double since it takes twice as long since I have to teach you along the way.
@@mattodonnell9182 .. What have I started..😆
880 are good blocks chevy use them in their crate engines like zz4.
Yes they are! JD
Zip ties for checking clearance here is the way to go
Didn't think about that!! JD
Not very smart to install bearings bare handed. Let me know him long it lasts.
Hey Tyson, this was just a test run so we could clearance the block, not the final assembly. Thanks for the feedback. JD
What should you use ?
You ruined the spriolock by springing it out of shape... That's a no,no! When I install the they look just like they came... The companies will tell you to never use them sprung out of shape. The guy that showed you to do them that way was an idiot!
Well I'm not sure I agree but the true test will be how it runs and if these cause an issue. You criticize but you don't mention how you do it or what makes you qualified to make such a comment...thanks for your opinion. JD
I take a small flat head screw driver to separate the first layer of the spriolock and put my thumb between the layer and start it in the grove holding pressure down on it andspriol it around in the grove with the small screwdriver until it is locked in and make sure it is in secure... I have been doing this for years and I build race motors for guys that put out a lot of Hp! On race has or alcohol... I have professional race car, tune chassis 66 Chevelle, that has a 468 BBC in it on race has, 12.3 comp. It has a Single Barrell carb on it, a SV1... It runs 5.62 et. at 123 mph in the 1/8th mile and 8.82 et. at 152 mph in the 1/4 mile. The car is fast for what it is! Haven't not jetted it yet or changed the total timing. 800 Hp. engine I built myself. 4.86 rear gear. 6,500rpm. convertor. As soon as I get it dialed in it will run in the 5.40 et. range... and the high 8's in the 1/4 mile.. I have not launched it off of the tranny brake yet, so it will run even faster! 60 ft. is 1.26et. and will be faster launched off the trans. brake. Probably a 1.22 et. or better... I am happy with my car, it goes straight and has no body roll. 4 link suspension. I know of know one that has a 468 cu.in. that runs that fast, they maybe one out there. The parts in my engine are over 30 years old, but they are new, Brodix 310 cc heads BB-2 and a round top Brodix intake. On a 383 you got to watch about the rods coming to close to the lobes on the camshaft on certain cylinders. Should have .060" clearance between the lobe and rod. Even with a small base circle cam, sometimes they can be too close with 6" rods. Even though the rods might be stroker clearance. It's safer to check than not. You don't want any problems with your new engine. Too much money involved. Coated bearings are the best for a high performance engine, although the cost is considerably higher, but they will pay off. I hope everything goes well for you, thanks for your reply...
@@leonardfoster6252 Wow Leonard that car sounds awesome! I have heard about the clearance issues between the rods and cam so we will check that. The project will get back on track here shortly, we are building a house and this has delayed progress. Thanks for clarifying and qualifying your initial comment! JD
@@JDOffline I would send you some pictures of my car, if I knew how to do it, let me know? Thanks...
@@leonardfoster6252 Jd_offline@yahoo.com