How To Build a Chevy 383 Stroker - Part 1: Block & Crank
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 16 апр 2013
- This is a new multi part series on how to assemble a small block Chevy 383 stroker motor (actually it is an internal combustion engine - "motors" are electric - but I digress LOL).
MOST of the assembly applies to any small block engine. I have divided up the assembly procedure into many parts so you can skip to the specific part you are looking for, i.e: crank, camshaft, timing chain or how to adjust rockers.
This whole series was shot by myself with my iPhone so presenting, filming and assembling could all be done smoother but "ir-regardless" I hope it helps.
PS - For those of you who who did NOT get the joke and are taking the "engine" and "motor" thing WAYYY too seriously, here are a couple instructional aides to help you figure out why you have no sense of humor.... also I would never use "ir-regardless" in proper English.
in.answers.yahoo.com/question/...
www.ask.com/question/what-is-t...
Thank you. Shannon www.corvettesandcustoms.org 
Авто/Мото
dude please use a brass hammer your scaring the fudge outta me
These videos are awesome. I have just bought my first car and I'm learning so much about engines just based off this video. Eventually I want to swap out my 350 for a 383 engine similar to this. Thanks for helping me get familiar with the parts of an engine!
I would not recommend using any used crank on a rebuild without having it checked at a machine shop and/or ground. This is a steel crank and it is like putting new brake pads on an old rotor. Won't hurt but will wear down the pads (or bearings) much faster. Not a good idea. A good machine shop will help you with grinding a crank and boring the cylinders for new pistons, etc.. Again, do all the machine work and pay to balance the engine!
Your supposed to wipe all oil and grease off of the bearing caps when you plasticgauge, that way you get a more accurate reading.
I get most of my stuff from Summit Racing. They are easy to work with and they know more than most local parts guys. If you start with a never rebuilt 4 bolt main block and machine it .030 over great. Steel crank if possible. Good pistons. Aftermarket heads, aluminum or cast iron, with at least 200 cc intake runners. Full roller or roller tip rockers. Aluminum intake. 600 - 750 cfm carb or FI. Should be easy 400 hp. Balancing will help longevity. Adjust 4 budget.
Be sure to run premium gas.
just i wanted to say, i thank you for this video. since your goal is to show whats to do and how to do it, no matter whats parts do you have.
Thanks. I am glad you understand. If you look at my website you can see the kind of work I do when someone actually has a budget and let's me do everything the right way. LOL
Nice. I always wanted to do an econo build. Scavenge all the parts for free, use the best of the old parts I have, and see how long the engine will last. Obviously not an engine for the track, but you know what I mean. Anyways, you just earned yourself another subscriber.
Thanks man. I'm glad you get it. This is a shit motor (there's that word again LOL) so why not use it for my first engine tutorial. Lots of guys build crap like this for their weekend racers. Small tracks across the country have a rule that says if you win a race you HAVE to sell your engine to anyone that offers you $1000 (or whatever the specific limit is). It keeps guys honest and the price of going racing down.
I just finished a BEAUTIFUL 350 four bolt with 350 hp and did some short vids on installing chrome timing covers, oil pan, etc. It is kind of an extension of these videos but with a LOT nicer engine and "bling" effect! Should be up soon.
Thanks again.
In that case, this being my first complete rebuild i'll probably stick to standard specs as much as possible and just use brand new std crank, pistons, bearing etc. I do want to upgrade the cam & heads though. Is there any setup you would recommend to use with a stock bottom end? Not going for really high performance, just better than stock but still reliable.
Nice I like guys like you bro that point out what is right and wrong. It's nice to still have smart people left building internal combustion engines.
Thanks man. I know this is a crappy engine but that is why I chose to use it as my first instructional video. When the client brought it to me he said he got it from a friend. he never said "Craigslist" If you want to see my latest and greatest cool car stuff (including a very cool 58 Vette restoration) follow me on my FB page facebook.com/corvettesandcustoms
Thanks!
need some advise! I have a 96 caprice 5.7L LT1. what can i do to get some more horses out of the engine with out having the check engine light on?. stock hp is 260.
Thanks. Most of my parts I get from Summit Racing. Depends on the exact part. I will get some parts from Auto Zone if my client is on a budget or in a hurry. Body or other parts I shop around for from Year One, Classic Industries, Original Parts Group or LMC truck parts.
Was that a 3.750 stroke crank? I was wondering if that is all that is needed to make a 350 a 383 stroker or are there more mods needed? Im about to start a 350 build and I was thinking about a 3.750 stoke over a 3.480 stock stroke but I don't want to run into any extra issues.
Thanks man. I'm glad you understand and get it!
When you bore an engine it just means you need the right size pistons. Rods and bearings are the same. The overall displacement changes from 350 cid to 355 cid with a 350 crank depending on compression, head chamber size and cylinder size, i.e. .030 over, .040 over or .060 over. It is still called a "350." You don't need a roller cam. You can use just roller rockers or roller tip rockers. I only use a ball hone if I am repairing one cylinder in a car. Machine the block and use new pistons, etc.
I know i ask a lot of questions but when the cylinders are bored .030 does that effect the size of the bearings or rods to use or do you just need .030 pistons? And do you need to use a roller cam & lifters in order to use roller rockers? Also, if the cylinders are in good shape is it necessary to send to a machine shop. I was told you can steam clean, run a tap through certain threads, and use a flexhone tool.
I remember when I did my LT1 I used gear oil to assemble it. That motor ran strong for 5 years stock bottom till the oil pressure went down I'm thinking from 100 shot N2o and seeing 6700 rpm a lot. =) Great video Sir I wish I had a place to work on motors I'm in a condo now. =(
Can you use the crank like that without grinding? Looks damaged enough to me. I just opened up my motor and my crank looks much better, I am considering whether to give it to the machine shop
Thank you for your help, I will put the info to good use.
Anytime. Thank you.
Hi, I'm in SD and looking for a honest/fair shop. How much experience do you guys have with LS3 Vettes?
The 383 idea is basically taking a 400 small block crank and putting it into a 350 block. If you use a longer stroke crank you need to plan ahead and match crank, pistons, cam/lift, heads, chamber size, rocker ratio and make sure the block has not been "decked." If you have pistons already I would stick with the 350 crank (preferably steel) especially if you have 10;1 or better pistons. The USED crank in this was a steel Scat 3.750. I never recommend used parts but I do recommend balancing!
Ha! You do the back threading step before you go forward on the bolts too!! Nice touch, good way to do things. The sharpie marking is a great idea. Going to watch the rest of the series.
Thank you. I have learned (the hard way) to clean threads before you put something together, especially when you have a bare block or something out and easy to get to. I have been having a "debate" with a couple people about using a tap instead of a "chaser." Taps only "cut" the block if the threads are wrong to start with. Whatever.... LOL
Very informative video !! Thanks
Thanks man. I sold my condo a few years ago just so I cold rent a house with a garage! I feel your pain!
My dad put nitrous on his 98 V6 Riviera with the factory blower. Only used it twice but it looks cool!
I have a good bit out questions for you would I be able to email you?
Great info chimed!
when u made bearind clearance u only do it 2 the one bearing? not the one below it
what are the part costs on an engine like this? I like to build one for my 2400 lbs bmw
You used that crank? Did you charge to build an engine with used parts?
I got a 350 in my 93 road master what would I have to do to keep it tbi after I turn it into a 383 and also what heads should I use?
You can use the throttle body injector and intake if that is what you are asking. Guessing you want more torque for the heavy car. Make sure the intake is not rotted out before you re use it. if it is bad spend a couple hundred $ and get a new Edelbrock intake that fits. I have been using ProComp aluminum heads for many of my builds (check out my "Engine Dress Up" videos to see them). They are made in China but work great on a budget. My machine shop says it only costs me about $500 more than rebuilding my old heads. They are high flow, lightweight and have a bolt pattern that goes both ways - standard and Vortec intake compatible. Check out the 58 Corvette restoration and other new stuff on my FB page facebook.com/corvettesandcustoms Thank you!
Im obviously no expert,so just a question.Wouldnt it be better to find a 4 bolt main block to do this or is the 2 bolt main plenty solid for this kind of build?
You used that crank? Did you charge to build an engine with used parts? Did your connecting rod bolts hit your camshaft.
Just curious how you got the pitting out of the crank before you installed it. I wouldn't think scotch brite would take care of that.
could all this be done with a lathe milling machine and welders
Ok first thanks for this video awesome as always. On to my question, so I am getting ready to drop in my crankshaft in my 1996 Lexus Ls400. I place all of the main bearing in set in the crank, nothing wrong. Place the thrust bearing in and now the crank won’t sit in. I measure it and its 2.44mm so it’s within spec. what do you think is wrong?
Thank you. I am finishing up my engine dress up series in the next few weeks so I hope you will watch those and learn a few more tips. The red engine I just built is going into a beautiful 1965 Chevelle and I am using the car in a new music video that I am sure everyone will freak out over! Hoping around Feb. Stay tuned!
Honestly I am not super familiar with the Lexus engines but a few things I would check are:
1. Make sure the crank does not have any old bearings or shims stuck on it.
2. Measure the OLD bearing. "Specs" are guidelines and a starting point. You may also have a burr on the end of the
crank or something.
3. Make sure the old bearing is out of the block. Sometimes we skip the painfully obvious because it is so obvious,
especially if you get in a hurry.
4. Most importantly the crank needs to be PERFECTLY level as you drop it in. If one side is higher than the other AT ALL
it won't drop in straight.
Sorry I can't be of more help but hope this leads you to an answer. Thanks again. Shan
Hi where do you get your parts from? Awesome vid
That is a loaded question. That depends on if you are talking "parts" AND "labor" or just labor. Most people don't like to assemble other people's parts (for the above obvious reasons). A rule of thumb here in San Diego would be around $500 labor to assemble an engine ready to go. More work, like grinding, etc. runs more. #1 Find someone you can trust. #2 set a budget. Parts & Labor can run $2K - $20K. A GOOD 383 done RIGHT should run @ $5K parts & labor. There is a build sheet on my website.
Thank you. I have some very cool videos and photos on my corvettesandcustoms website (see above in the video description). I also have a nice "wish list" for building your dream engine. Let me know if you ever have any questions.
did you put crank in with that pitting ? or had you cleaned it up and how did you go about that?
I just did a light polish so it had no sharp or rough edges. The owner was too cheap to turn the crank properly. Is the customer always right???
Great video to share. I just added vortec heads to my small block. I will be stroking it this fall.
Can you make a 99 350 Vortec into a Stroker?
Yes.
I'd like to bounce a couple questions off of you. I'd like to put a Vortech 5.3 in the 92 Camaro. First do you see any problem with that secondly what I use the CAMARO wire harness or the donor truckharness? And is there any problem using the truck motor. And one more question, would 5.3 that had an automatic both up to my factory four-speed in the Camaro? Thanks a lot
Is there anything in the Camaro now? If you had to use the truck engine then you want to use the truck wire harness. The truck trans probably won't fit in the Camaro. Do you just want the little bit of extra stroke and torque? The MAJORITY of your hp comes from the heads. Seems like you are creating more work then you need to. There are many donor cars at the wrecking yard you can get fairly cheap and rebuild and replace the heads on if you want to max out your hp. If money is not tight then a well built LT1 that bolts right in with a Vortec Supercharger is the easiest and most driver friendly high hp way to go. Take a look at the "Build Sheet" page on my website and print it out. It will help you decide and budget your build options. Don't even get me started on doing an engine swap if you are in California where you have to smog it! LOL www.corvettesandcustoms.org
hey great videos one question do the 383 stroker have cam bearing?
+Raymond Talley Yes. You can get a cam bearing installation tool but I recommend having the machine shop install the cam bearings.
Thank You So Much For this Sir. I am 17 and Learning how to build my own motor for the future, watching your videos help me with my List ! Thanks :)
+CeeLive Thank you for watching! Check out my "Build Sheet" page on my website www.corvettesandcustoms.org You can download or print out the "wish list" to help you plan your build before you start. It helps to plan and budget - cast iron heads or aluminum heads, etc. Hit me up if you ever have any questions. You can also follow me on facebook.com/corvettesandcustoms
Hello, I wonder what is the best option for connecting rods ride a chevy 383, connecting rods 5.7 inch or 6.0 inch? Profile I or H? I will buy the rotary kit Scat, and the best option? I want to achieve a 450 hp. Thank you so much.
+Wilmar Junior Talk to the Scat people.. 6 inch i-beam Scat 2-ICR6000-7/16 best rod for the $$
how much does someone usually charge to build one?
I have a nice running 350 block with headers and a Edelbrock Aluminum intake. 600 cfm carb.
What other parts do I need to buy to create a 383 stroker motor?
If you have a running 350 you want to make into a 383 you will basically keep the heads and block and replace everything else. You will need new pistons, rods and (400) crank on top of everything else you typically need to rebuild an engine. Unless you have a big heavy car or truck and really want the low end torque you may want to stay with a 350.
It is easier and less expensive for parts and machine work to build a high hp 350. You are better off spending the money on performance or "clean up" work at the machine shop.
If your block is in good shape (or never been rebuilt) you can easily build a 400hp 350 starting with what you have. Get a good machine shop to help you with specifics but basically:
Machine your block and get good NEW matching 10:1 comp. pistons (.030 over, etc)
BALANCE crank, rods, pistons, flywheel/flexplate
Use good double roller timing chain (gear drives are cool but annoying)
NEW harmonic balancer
"port" the heads - have the machine shop open the intake runners, machine a good flowing head and use large (2.02 intake) valves.
Use roller tip or full roller rockers
Check your intake before you use it or spend $135 at Summit for a new intake
Make sure the carb is in good shape.
You should make around 400hp and be able to run on premium pump gas.
Use GOOD Felpro header gaskets and paint your engine any color you want!
Good luck!
what about checking the line bore on the crank and cam,that crank should roll like it has roller bearings
The machine shop should take care of all that. This engine is of course garbage but that is why you need to use new parts and a GOOD machine shop you can trust. The crank spun smooth and this engine runs fine but parts like these are why I don't trust anyone who says the engine was rebuilt, etc. when I buy an engine or a car. The only way to KNOW for sure is to build it yourself. Being cheap is always risky.
If you don't live in California there's a lot you can do. If the engine is in good shape you can get a Vortec supercharger (blower) kit to put on it. Blowers add roughly 40% hp to any engine. The kit will come with the proper programming for the computer so you don't melt down the pistons. Larger injectors, K&N air intake system, good headers, dual Flowmaster mufflers, replace the heads. Budget and "balance" of air/fuel/intake/exhaust are all important. Or rebuild it with these things in mind.
Sorry. My bad. I did not have it labeled as Part 3 but now you can find it on my channel as " How to build a 383 Part 3: Cam and timing chain." Thanks for spotting that for me. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any questions. Shan
Thank you. Stay in touch. I have a new web series called "The Yard" I am putting together about finding, fixing and flipping cars in the "real" world.
We use crankshafts like this all the time for circle track guys and they win races! If you would NEVER,never do this that you wouldn't last long building anything for the circle track guys your comment's give you away you don't really have much experience dealing with racers if you did you would know not to post like this, also what if he is using these parts just to give the viewer an Idea how a stroker goes together maybe you should think b 4 U make a ass out of yourself
I've used your videos on building a 383 as a reference for my assembly but I have a question I accidentally put one of the rods on backwards and I need to take it off and flip it around how do you get those annoying little c-clips out without damaging the piston or the rod. Any help would be very much appreciated thanks.
Short answer: Carefully!
Long answer: I am "ASSUMING" you have the spiral pain in the ass clips not the easy C clips with the eyelets you can grab with snap ring pliers. If it is not a needle nose or snap ring plier solution then spiral or C clips SHOULD have a small lip on them to get them out with a metal dental pick or similar Snap On/Matco/Harbor Freight tool.
Usually I use one straight dental pick and one hooked pick from Snap On or any tool place.
I use the same tools to take the snap ring off of a steering column when I am pulling the steering wheel locking plate.
Hope this helps.
Finishing up my "dress up" engine series in a couple weeks. The red engine I used in the videos is in a 1965 Chevelle and I am using the car in a new music video coming out in Feb! Stay tuned!
Thanks again. Shan
I'm retarded my pistons have a notch or you can stick a screwdriver in it and just pop it out
richard lundy
Like I said. Sometimes you get in a hurry and just miss the obvious! Glad you figured it out!
My question is this......I have a 4 bolt main 350 that is stock. If I build a budget 383 what parts rods etc can I re use? I know the crank and pistons will have to be replaced, what about the stock heads? Will I need bigger valves? Like I said this is a budget build, I need to save and reuse parts where possible.
The main reason to do a 383 is to get a longer stroke crank and make more low end torque (for towing or whatever). If you just want to build horsepower then I would suggest staying with the 350 BUT (as Pee Wee Herman used to say "Everyone has a big BUT!") here are a couple things to keep in mind. For a 383 you can use the stock heads and rods (depending on the pistons you go with) but you will have to get a NEW crank and do more work clearancing the block and making sure you get all the right parts that work together. For the price of machining the heads, installing bigger valves and stronger springs, etc, clearancing the block and buying a new crank you can buy a new set of after market high flow aluminum heads that make MORE power and are ready to bolt on. Head flow is where you get the most power from any engine. The cam just tells you where the power will be, low rpm or high rpm. The 350 I built for the 65 Chevelle is just over 400 hp with a 600 crm carb!
ruclips.net/video/uXTybjjdPAI/видео.html&spfreload=10
Summit has some good heads available, even cast iron, that will make more power than stock. Check with your machine shop and see what they have available. $1000 for a set of good aluminum heads are well worth the price in the long run even if you have to wait a while longer to get them. They are also lighter in weight and run much cooler. I have some good pix on my FB page. facebook.com/corvettesandcustoms
I use PTFE spray to lube the cylinder walls when i do dry fitting, easier to coat the whole bore and the teflon isn't wiped of as easily by the piston when moving upp and down.
May work okay but personally I would not use any teflon coating on a new engine. The same reason you don't want to use synthetic oil for at least 2000 miles. The rings need to seat and "break in" before you add anything. If you use any synthetic or teflon additives you run the risk of the rings not sealing, oil bypassing the rings and engine smoking. Not saying it will but just something to think about. Thanks!
+SanDiegoHotRod you have a point if its for final assembly, but i only use it for dry fitting, like checking crank clearance, it feels like it lowers friction more then engien oil when you only have a thin coat, Before final assembly i whipe it of with a microfiber towle and use assembly lube and semi synthetic oil. Built two 350 sbc, one nissan sr20 4banger and one bmw m54 steigh six with teflon and never hade any problems with rings not seating so don't thinl residue is an issue.
nice floor for a shop. good video bro.
+1Jwpeff Thanks man!
I watched your stroker video and was curious if you could give me some pointers on my first engine build?
If you go to my website corvettesandcustoms.org and click on the link that says "Build Sheet" you can print out a "wish list" of parts you may want to use. Just like building a house you want to set a budget, decide what purpose you want the engine for (drag racing, circle track, economy, street performance) and then build the engine "on paper' so you have some idea what to expect. Keep in mind what I tell my customers: There are things you NEED, things you could use, and things you DON'T need. Rule of thumb, most machine shops (and more and more other businesses in America) suck so you just have to find one you can work with and will explain things to you so you know exactly what is going on. Summit Racing is a great source for parts and info. I also use Virtual Engine 2000 to get an idea on horsepower and RPM range before I build an engine. Thanks. Hope this helps.
you did plastigauge on 1/2 the main bearings, would you have to repeat the process for the other side (ie remove the crank and put plastigauge there?)
+Jeffrey Lomele No. The clearance is actually an overall clearance between the crank journal and the bearing surface. When the engine is turned right side up and the crank "falls" .001 of an inch then the clearance will be at the top. When oil is flowing around the crank it "floats" on a very thin layer of oil all the way around the crank bearing journal surface. Hope this makes sense.
+SanDiegoHotRod makes perfect sense, thanks!
Hello,
I'm working on a engine for an 80's model Camaro I recently obtained on trade and am planning on build a 383 to go into it. I was wondering if it was possible to use a 400 block and destroke it. If so how would one go about this process?
You can but I would not do it that way. A 400 block has bigger cylinders which restrict water flow between the cylinders and they are known for running hot (over heating).
Any "odd size" crank, rod or piston combination is harder to find parts for and more expensive. As far as budget, assembly time, horsepower and reliability a 350 (4 bolt) block (new or never bored), steel crank, GOOD aluminum heads (machined right), GOOD pistons and everything BALANCED will be money and time better spent.
Just my opinion.
SanDiegoHotRod Thanks for the reply and the info. I didn't know about the 400's running hot. Definitely going to be looking for a 350 block now.
I have a Chevy 350 out of a 98 Z71 how much do I need to bore the block over
You need to have a machine shop look at it. If it is not bad then you can go .030 over. If it is really bad it could be .040 or .060 over. Just have the machine shop check it and make sure the block and crank look better than the one in this video! LOL
thanks boss!
thanks 4 the video.
I can't find part 3...
do stock rods and pistons still work
Not trying to sound like an ass but yes and no. "Stock" can refer to many different piston and rod designs. "Stock" pistons and rods in a 400 that you might use in a 350 block are different than the 350 "stock" rods and pistons. There are almost unlimited rod and piston designs to build an engine these days. Overall "compression" and "displacement" comes from a combination of pistons, rods, camshaft, bore, crank and so on. There are many complete "stroker" kits available from places like Summit and Jegs. I would start with talking to your local machine shop to see what is available and what works best in your situation. Is it a street car? A weekend racer? An off road truck? Do you want 9:1 compression to drive around town or 12:1 to go race? Pistons can be domed or dished and the wrist pin is located in varying points on each piston design. Check out the "Build Sheet" page on my website. it will help you plan and budget your build. You can also read more of the "techo" stuff on this page I found www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0808-383-stroker-small-block-chevy/ Thank you!
Hey shanon, I don't think I explained my situation very well. Let me try again and see if this helps.
1. I have my dream car, 92 Camaro purple Z 28 factory four-speed. It has no engine but the transmission is there. It was a 5.0, so I know it will hold a SBC.
I also need body parts for my daughters 01 silverado. So I was thinking I could get 2things done for 1price.
So I'm looking to get a silverado with a vortec 5.3 and build that for my camaro, and use the body parts for her truck. And no I don't live in CA.
So what I need to know is,
Will a 5.3 vortec bolt up to my camaro'S manual trans?
Is a "truck engine" A good candidate for building a stroked?
Will the wiring be a pain in the butt?
And is there other problems that might arise for this project? Sorry for Taking so much of your time. I really appreciate your input.
I have read that the block will bolt up to the trans but not 100% sure. The crank spacing, etc. is different so I know they sell adapter kits for the automatic but have not seen adapter kits for the 4 speed. Trying to get the right computer set up with the 5.3 and the 4 speed will be a nightmare to get it dialed in right. If you do not need to smog the car I think you are better off and money ahead to buy the truck sans engine and trans (cheaper) and buy a 4 bolt 350 core that has not been rebuilt. If you start with a 350 block and go .030 over and build it with a stroker kit (crank, rods, pistons, etc) from Scat or any other company and use the ProComp aluminum heads you can either go carb. or fuel injected (PC heads go both ways). $300 for a NEW Holley 600 (as big as you need) or $900 - $1200 for a fuel injection kit from Holley or other company. You will have gobs of torque and hp without the headache of wire harnesses and computer diagnostic time. Just my personal opinion. I would keep it simple since you have a 4 speed. Don't forget a good set of ceramic headers.
I would have the machine shop bore the cylinders 30 or 40 over (not 60). Line bore it only if it needs the crank mains straightened out. Get new matching pistons. The machine shop can help yo with all that and tell you what you need. Just get matching parts so pistons, crank, valves, cam etc. don't hit each other.
I am a little new to this, so can someone tell me why he is using engine oil on the main bearing and cap bolts rather than loctite?
The torque specs for the main bearings is set "with engine oil on the threads" according to every engine assembly manual ever written. It is just procedure. Also, you never use loctite near the bearings. I only use it on the bolts that hold the timing chain gear onto the camshaft. (and screw in rocker studs)
SanDiegoHotRod dont forget it under the head of the bolts either/ just as responsible for false torque readings as the threads are.
Thanks (I think) Not sure if that is a complement but I do things a bit different because I have seen what happens when you leave out the little details. It is tough for me to even show these "home" videos because they are just shot on an iPhone with one hand while building an engine with old crappy parts. LOL
me being someone without experience to do my self how much and is it possible even to have a mechanic look over when im finish just to be my little project
The crank had already been machined once. If you machine the crank more you will weaken the crank (and cost another couple hundred dollars in machine work and bearing set). Even with a NEW crank and bearings, you still have to plastiguage each journal and use scotch brite to clearance the bearings. You are not taking much off the bearing and when the engine is running the oil does most of the work. Again, the best thing is not to be cheap and buy used parts so you don't have to worry about it.
Well how about a 350 then, how can I build a 350 and get decent horse power for a street engine? I have the stock components......so what components can I re use and what will I need to purchase?
If you live somewhere without smog laws or have a smog exempt car you can use the stock parts (block, crank, rods and heads). To get more power the key is air/fuel mixture and flow. Edelbrock aluminum intake manifold is affordable, looks nice and works great. A Holley 600 cfm is usually plenty of carb for a street car. It is also very affordable. A good "RV" style mid range camshaft is good. You don't want anything too big. It kills vacuum and does little for actual power.
The most (affordable) power is having the stock heads machined and rebuilt with new 2.02 intake valves, seats, guides, springs, and most importantly having the intake runners ported out to flow better. That is your biggest HP gain. You need to talk to your machine shop to get prices on machine work and porting and what they can get you new cast iron or aluminum heads for price wise. And lastly, I prefer Flow Master mufflers for better exhaust flow.
Thank you for taking time out of your day to make this video. I did not have a good understanding of plastigage until this video. Do we also have to worry about the tolerance on the block side crank shaft bearings as well?
Thank you and you are welcome. You do not necessarily need to worry about the block side bearings. It is not necessarily how round the bearings are but the "clamping force" I guess you would call it. Like brake pads grabbing a rotor or inside out brake shoes and drums. IF you need to clearance the bearings you are only talking less than .001 inches in most cases. For the most part (in a perfect world) the crank is actually spinning on a film of oil not the actual bearing material itself. Hope this helps. I wish I knew a better more accurate scientific way to explain it. LOL
Thank you much! What is the proper way to remove material on the cap if your tolerance is too large? Or is this something that identifies a defect in the crank journal itself and requires professional machining? Thanks in advance..
Troy M
In THEORY or in a perfect world, if the crank is turned say .010 under and you get a GOOD set of bearings marked .010 then they should be within tolerance. Also if you have a NEW crank and GOOD new bearings they should be a good match. If it is only one journal that is bad then you may have a problem. Of course best scenario is a new steel crank with GOOD new bearings.
Thanks again!
Ideally you want to have the crank new or checked by a machine shop shop for size, cracks and balance. If the tolerance is too large then use another bearing or you may need another new bearing/set. Mic the crank to be sure. You don't want to start machining the caps yourself.
No problem. Thank you for watching! If you have not checked out my website yet there are more photos and videos there. I have more stuff coming so stay tuned! corvettesandcustoms d o t O R G
Great job! Very well explained for us newbies
Thanks. My first video tutorial so not 100% perfect but I think it covers the basics! The second series on the Engine dress Up helps a lot with sealing external parts, etc.
will the main caps go on backwards if you make a mistake
Yes. The best thing to do is mark the caps before you take them apart. if there are no arrows pointing forward or numbers you can use number punches or single center punch. Front cap one dot. Second cap two dots, etc. Mark the block as well with a dimple so you know which direction the caps go back on also.
ok thanks
Great video !!!!!
Thank you! Watch the "Dress up" video series on installing external parts with the much nicer 400hp 350 red engine.
you make great videos sir!!! cheers!!
+fred smith Thank you very much! Have you watched my James Dean video? I have a documentary coming out soon on the "James Dean's Last Drive" event I put together. I also have a music video coming out soon that features a 1965 Chevelle (the car with the red engine in it). Thanks for watching and stay tuned!
SanDiegoHotRod I wanted to know if you could help me put together a 383 stroker for my 84 ss monte carlo..I have the 350 small block already
Sure thing. Take a look at the BEAUTIFUL red 350 I just put together on my facebook page
www.facebook DOT com/corvettesandcustoms
It is a REAL hot rod engine (not like this cheap POS I filmed mostly for demo purposes)
Thanks
SanDiegoHotRod I'm looking for a 4 bolt 350 chevy small block mines is a 2 bolt
Anthony Calhoun
The red engine on my facebook page is a 4 bolt. I can get you a 4 bolt block and put together 400hp long block with NEW aluminum heads for around $3500.
SanDiegoHotRod how much for just the block
350 four bolt main block is around $250
You didn't have to clearance anything at the bottom of the cylinders?
What about GENERAL MOTORS and the FORD MOTOR COMPANY and Mopar which stands for MOTOR PARTS
personally in my opinion to the post before mine, a motor runs on electricity and engine runs on combustable fuel.
how much did the whole build cost?
This was a long time ago. He brought me a basket of parts and I just charged him a few hundred $ to put it all together. I had to clearance the block and check things out. He would not listen when I told him all the things wrong with it like the shit crank, etc. I won't do that again. If you want to see a GOOD 400 hp 350 build take a look at the follow up series on "Engine Dress Up" with the red engine and new aluminum heads. A GOOD engine like that custom built from the computer design and dyno program to a complete engine is $5000 - $6000 (2015 prices). That includes everything from oil pan to air cleaner. This engine was crap that's why I used it as a training film. LOL
Set a budget and write down what you want to do. Talk to a good machine shop about what you want to do and your budget. They can help you get the correct matching parts. The guys at Summit Racing are also very helpful getting pistons, and parts, etc. Just make sure to take your time and keep everything clean! Lube the assembly correctly as it goes together. PRIME THE OIL PUMP before and after it goes in. No one will warranty parts you put together but you can put something together and learn.
The wider the "sploodge" you say the tighter the clearance is, so if I were you I would go a little more to the middle of your gauge and you would have better oil flow. IMO.
I was thinking the same thing. Why allow the clearance to be at the end of the spectrum?
how do you know if you have a 383 strocker crankshaft
If you don't have the book with the numbers you can look online. There are a few webpages I have found that list serial numbers for cranks, heads and blocks, etc. You can measure the crank throw but honestly not sure how to do that accurately. I let the machine shop do all that stuff for me.
Nice job from a old gear head engine builder.
Thanks man. I know this engine is a piece of crap and mostly just a demo/tutorial thing. I have a new "series" of videos that continue this theme of putting together a small block. The new videos "cover" the external parts and the engine I just put together is BEAUTIFUL with aluminum heads and 400hp. I have a couple uploaded with a couple more on the way. Thanks again!
I understand that this is a instructional video but personally I would use a 4 bolt main over a 2 bolt for a 383 stroker motor
4 bolt mains are always better.
I have never seen anyone clearance half a bearing. Why would you stroke a 2 bolt main?
The amount of material you take off with "scratch brite" is so small that if you needed to clearance upper and lower bearings you probably have the wrong size bearing or crank. The stroker crank came in the box of crap the customer brought me. Some people are just too cheap to do things right and I don't work with people like that anymore.
Why are we checking the clearances of a used crank? Demonstration purposes?
+Rod Palm Pretty much. This was such a junk motor I decided it would be a good one to use as a learning tool while building, filming and narrating by myself. Nothing wrong with using a used crank, especially a steel crank but this one is hammered! I tried to talk him into turning it but he was a cheap customer I don't have any more. As others have commented lots of people use used parts for "claimer" races where the winner HAS to sell you his engine for $500 or whatever if you make the offer. This keeps prices down and races fair on small tracks.
+SanDiegoHotRod You have to run the motor you claim AND it has to be for a minimum of 3 races too. Or refuse to sell and take the 3 race suspension, track owners dont like to see car counts down cause a suspensions ether.
Thanks man. I appreciate the support. I was debating whether to approve the negative comments but I have gotten overwhelming support and positive response.
I looked at your channel and thought you might like my other channel or website snowproductions d o t n e t. I also write and produce Christian (and non christian) music and videos. Thanks again.
i know its an old video but you did a great job. it looks like the original builder did not clearance the crank or block. that crank looks shitty. i had many stock chevy cranks with over 70 to 100k miles that looked like new.
Thanks. When the client brought me the bucket of parts he never said the word "Craigslist" and did not want to spend the money to redo everything. That's why I used it as a training video. LOL You can see a NICE 350 on my "Engine dress Up" series. 400 hp simple street "motor"
I saw you said you could get a 4-bolt main 350 block for 250$...
Planning on building a 383 and I want a 4-bolt main that has roller cam provisions...
Chris6068 All Chevy small blocks will take a roller cam setup. Just talk to your local machine shop and they can give you some ideas to get the roller cam, lifters and rockers all set up correctly.
I know they can all have roller cam's installed, but its a matter of how much work it takes to get them there. ie: most '88-93 truck blocks have the provisions for a roller cam, but requires drilling of the bosses, etc.
A 96-98 block wouldn't have this issue as it already had a roller cam in it from factory.
I'm also wondering where I good place to look for a block would be? Wait for something to pop up on local classifieds and get it cleaned up, or are you better of buying a fresh 383 block?
Chris6068
You can buy a new 383 block that is all prepped and ready. I get mine from my buddy at the machine shop that I have known for 20 years. I always say as a rule of thumb that everyone sucks you just have to find someone you can trust and work with. Machine shops usually have extra blocks available. Just make sure you get a block that has not been rebuilt yet so you only have to go .030 over. Shops can usually get you deals on used 4 bolt blocks especially if you have them do all the machine work for you. You are better off spending money on a good set of aluminum heads that flow well. That is where most of your power is made. A "cheap" set of good after market aluminum heads runs me around $1000 with big valves and good flow rating completely assembled. Use the CFM guide on the Holley web site to pick a carb (or FI). You don't need as big as you think. And mostly spend the couple hundred dollars to get everything balanced! It makes a huge difference.
The truck won't be nearly extreme enough to be running aftermarket heads. Just going to be doing Vortecs. Its still going to be powered by TBI, won't be doing a carb conversion.
I know of a guy who has a near 400HP 383, with 450lb-ft running TBI tuned by an EBL-Tuner, so going to go this route.
Need the truck to start everyday in -30 so I'd like to stick with fuel injection.
Your oil clearance would have probably been perfect if you hadn't lubed the bearing first. As for scotch brite on the bearing shell...
your no suppose to use a tap to clean you threads your suppose to use a thread chaser. a tap will cut your threads
Big debate on taps and chasers. IF you can find a true chaser that would work most of the time but finding one these days is hard and extra $$ when more people already own a tap and die set. A tap (used correctly) won't cut threads if the hole is already in good shape. If the hole is rusty and /or cross threaded/worn out then a tap is better to fix the threads. Most old blocks are in bad shape and a undersize/"non cutting" chaser will bind or won't work or thread in all the way.
Just need to be careful and take your time no matter how you clean the threads/holes. Thanks.
how mutch hp
This engine is not great with mostly stock parts. it is about 350 true hp. If you look at the red engine on my "Engine Dress Up" series it has better parts, better aluminum heads and is just over 400hp on premium gas. The long stroke give you low end torque. Most of your hp comes from the heads.
Correct. The clearance is so minute that .001 difference would actually use a different bearing set.
Hit it with some scotch bright.
A 4 bolt main is obviously better to start with. This was a clients engine he THOUGHT was a good deal but the seller HIGHLY misrepresented the parts and wear, etc. I myself NEVER buy engine parts from Craigslist or the paper. When you try to do things cheap it bites you every time. Use NEW parts that FIT TOGETHER. Get references on parts and labor. 4 bolts are more important for trucks, racing and turning over 6000 RPM. 2 bolts and a STEEL crank are fine for most street apps. Thanks.
you're scaring me with that impact dropping sockets.
It wouldnt have cost much to polish that crank. Also, you should not have that grease in there when plasiguaging. It will read tighter than it is. I got a 415 small block in about the same condition and its been running strong for 15 years now.
That's what happens when you have a customer who is really cheap. He just wanted me to put the parts together. I don't work with cheap customers anymore.
HEY wheres part 2.........
I use a hard plastic hammer.
Is that bad?
Where are you using the hammer?
knocking in main bearings. I was afraid a metal head could mar the edges.
I am a mechanic that builds the occasional engine as a hobby but not an engine builder. My current engine build is a 350 OLds that should make near 430hp. My next project is an 351 Cleveland that will be stroked to 393. I just do it for fun.
1400IntruderVS Some people yell and scream if you use any hammer or impact gun on main bearings. I understand if they want to be completely anal and that's fine but most people do not realize that there are different size and styles of hammers and there is a setting on air tools to turn them down just like a stove burner! You do not need to set the gun at 500 ft/lbs! You do not need a 5 pound sledge to lightly tap in a main bearing cap. You can see I am using a very small ball peen hammer to very lightly tap the cap into place.
Think of it this way:
Just because you are a butcher does not mean you can be a surgeon!
A plastic hammer is fine especially if you use a "dead blow" style with lead shot in the head. Whenever possible (or when I think about it) I try to use the handle (butt) of a hammer (wood or plastic) to tap things in place the same way I do installing pistons. You can see that on part 2 installing pistons.
Hope this answers your question. I know it's a bit long winded but a simple "yes" or "no" will get a bunch of screaming responses one way or another. I'm sure it will anyway! LOL
I get it.
I actually use the handle of my plastic dead-blow hammer to install pistons.
Thanks and great videos.
1400IntruderVS
Thank you. And obviously this engine is not my best work. If you want to see some very nice engines check out my website www dot corvettesandcustoms d o t O R G