Let's Make Soft Jaws
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- This episode on Blondihacks.com, I'm making some snazzy new soft jaws for my vise! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
/ quinndunki
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Chinook, Timbits, Toque?!? That's the funniest line I've heard in a while!
I'm also happy you show "when things go wrong" More people need to be willing to mess things up before they get good results.
Turns out that shirt is the Canadian Table Of Elements.
@@Blondihacks Turns out Timbits have a large number of known isotopes
@@DavesRocketShop I rushed down to the comments to say the same thing, but you beat me to it!
@@DavesRocketShop 🤣😂 That explains why they're so reactive with my mouth
@@Blondihacks
Thinking outside the box:
You could've carefully cold formed the cu, annealing during the process to avoid work hardened brittleness. The other option would be to print the jaws in plastic 1% undersized to use as a pattern for a greensand casting, minimizing the later machining loss.
See Tubelcain (Lyle) and Roy of Christ Centered Iron for specifics about methods.
Me and copper no longer talk.
Enjoyed the video but sorry for your troubles. You probably get this alot but: nice jaws!
😬
Sorry to interject on Quinns channel but are you ok ToT, haven’t seen much content from you lately and you didn’t sound too well in your last few vid’s.
Love the channel Quinn, shame about the hassle you had with the copper jaws but great result in the end.
This Old Tony
Liar !
you where looking at the periodic table !
Lol !
One old time coolant for copper is milk. Whether its buttermilk, whole, 2%, skim or chocolate is up in the air.
@@poppabear3664 tot will be back
I made a set of soft jaws for my 6 inch vice out of old nylon cutting board. Magnets in the set to keep em in place. Ive had them three years now and never had an issue with them.
Love your sense of humor !
Interesting thing about copper and gold.....think about it....they're the only two metals that aren't silvery.
I love your videos!!! please bring more projects!!
Quinn, recently found your channel and enjoy your projects and narrative. I have one question and I'm sure you have answered it already somewhere in the multitude of videos you have produced, What brand/model are your lathe and mill? I have been working toward purchasing each for myself and am curious as to what other people are using. the equipment used by Keith Rucker and Adam are beyound my pocket and space. I like Tubalcain because he is using smaller equipment like the Altas lathes and South Bend Lathe, Shaper.
Watch the Simpson's Season 11 Episode 20 ("Last Tap Dance in Springfield") & you'll find it's TAPPA, TAPPA, TAPPA, (not Tappy, Tap, Tap) Love ya work Toots, G'Day from Melbourne, Australia
Thanks for another great vid. Sorry about your mill. I work in a commercial custom cabinet shop. We have a saying: It's not a mistake until you can't hide it.
Cheers
That's a great saying. I'll have to remember it. : D
I never laughed so hard at the periodic table before.
Just remember, your mistakes are a chance for all of us to learn something, barring those that already know everything. Very nicely done.
I hereby decree that the antidote to a rainy crappy Saturday is a new episode of Blondihacks. All in favor say aye.
Hey, Joey, I put in 8 hrs OT at my job and still enjoy Blondihacks after I got home.
Aye!
Except it's Sunday. And sunny.
Eye
If you have a lathe in your garage...yes lol
Sweet, TOT sent me to you. So glad he did...tappy tap tap? Subbed.
Thank you so much for putting your mistakes in. Watching machining videos with all the warts removed plus carefree "I decided to do this genius thing because I'm a genius and I totally skyped with AvE once" voiceover creates the same kind of anxiety in machinists (ok I mean me) as teenagers get from seeing images on influencer instagram pages with their photoshopped abs, botoxed bits, massivo biceps and perfect everything-jobs.
I’ve made some truly inappropriate comments about TOT’s hands, but hate you have to put up folks making comments about you. Love the channel.
You should see the stuff I delete. The angry men of the internet are cruel.
Blondihacks some channels are set up so the owner has to approve comments first. Maybe consider going that route?
Having recently struggled to turn a taper on a rod of copper, with the copper grabbing at every opportunity, I am definitely steering clear of any thoughts of milling it. Copper might look beautiful, but has evil in its heart! Thank you for such an informative video.
No biggie Quit, shit happens. I have a big Bridgeport, but do DRO, so I get my fair share of those. Just put your middle finger and thumb together and say "ahhh ummm"
"Hello, Internet."
HI QUINN!
Hello Quinn. I've had days in my shop that went so bad I gave up machining for the day and came back the next day. I've learned over the years (especially when doing a large part and you're maybe 30 or 40 hours in) it is not worth scrapping the part when the day goes south. Those awful days make the perfect (and very rare) days that much sweeter. Keep up the good work. Ken
I ogled the copper bars for jaws quite some time ago when Tom Lipton showed them on his vises, but never got around to ordering a bar. I thought, sooner or later on one of my daily walks through the neighborhood, I'll find a piece of copper bar in the street inadvertently dropped off the electrical utility repair truck. I have found several drywall screws, a couple of 10-24 nylock nuts, a quarter, a dime, three nickels and several copper pennies, but no copper bars. In the meantime, I took a piece of 3/4" copper water pipe, split it open and first hammered it flat, then into an "L" shaped around said vise jaws. Yeah, it falls off to the floor about half the time, but so far it suffices for a make-do no more often than I need it.
Just a thought that occurred to me, one might use 1/4" x 3/8" copper bar to form the pocket for the jaw and then solder the 1/4" surface to the 1" (or thinner) copper bar forming the perfect pocket. Copper mills like a demon from hell, but it does solder nicely. Much less waste, too.
Another observation: You had to take your shirt off to examine the Periodic Elements Table chart. I know it can be nippy up there in Canada, so wouldn't it be more practical to have the PE Table printed upside down on the shirt so you could just look down an read it without removing your shirt? Come to think of it, why not have a decimal equivalents chart or a Metric to Imperial chart printed upside down on a tee-shirt? :D
Eh well.. Some days in the shop are diamonds, and some of them are plain old rocks. You got it done and that's what matters.
Awesome job in the end. Glad your mill is back up and working. Another great and informative video! I’m secretly hoping for an AvE style tear down and rebuild video for how you got it running again...
Next week! 😁
Sorry you had so many problems ☹️. I thought I was the only one that has multiple items go wrong on a simple project.
I don’t comment ever… I watch a lot of your videos bc I am new to home machining. Not machining but home machining. And that joke about you taking off your shirt made my day. Keep the jokes up, it makes your content so much better than many machining Channels, most of which are very dry
Me and Copper had our discussions about 30 Years ago.....since then it didn´t show up again....sorry for ya Mill supernoving....had that too im my shop...that day ended with a bottle of Knob Creek.
Loved the transparency and stick-to-it-iveness on this one!
Hi,
Appreciate and enjoy your vids, thanks. I’ve always wondered why the love for copper soft jaws. They look great , and are a bit harder than aluminum, but the cost...
I make and use aluminum soft jaws in the tormach, custom cut to hold parts. They are disposable and inexpensive. I also use aluminum soft jaws in the shop vises, and I don’t have to be too worried about messing them up. The aluminum holds fine, both in the slip on form, and the complete jaw replacement type.
But I know that’s a different set of needs than a home workshop. And I guess, to be honest, if a bit of suitable copper fell on my lap, I’d say ouch! Then make some soft jaws.
:-)
Cheers
Alistair
lol, tool mark history
I'm laughing with you, not at you
'Coz I know that anguish, way too well
Been there, done that. More times than I'd like to admit
I've spent many a hour with a beer & just gazing, smh, at the beautiful pile of waste I just created of both metal & wood.
While sweeping it up, constantly being reminded of how much I spent,
"Hmm, guess we're skipping the kids college fund for a month or two"
"It's boxed wine for the ol'lady"
"Oh, well. Got to move on. 'Coz that stainless steel project ain't gonna get done by itself"
"Well, if there's a plus side, no Fancy Feast for that dang cat"
"And he 'is' reusing the dog's toothbrush!"
I call those mistakes "tuition costs". 😀
:) Exactly
There's a line in the James Caan film Thief. They're looking at the blueprints of an expensive safe they hope to open. I seem to remember a character saying, "And there's a layer of copper to bind the drills."
The copper layer in a laminated safe is not there to "bind the drill", that is the job of the hard plate layer. The copper layer is to coduct the heat away to make a torch attack more difficult. It is also handy to conduct the heat to melt the lead to spray the safe cracker with molten lead.
They are beautiful soft jaws. If I may make a suggestion. When I was working when we needed soft jaws we used a 0.25" thick X 1.5" wide bar and just folded two pieces to fit. It saved a lot of copper.
Hope you saved those chips and kept them clean. All my non-ferrous go into dog food bags (tough) for future casting experiments.
I should have, but I'm ashamed to say I didn't. I was so annoyed by the end of this project that it was therapeutic to vacuum up everything and launch it into the sun. That last part was expensive, but I think worthwhile. SpaceX gets my first born now, but what can you do.
Also, you might find a small metal-recycling business that buy clean metal in any form. If you rinse off the chips and take them in they gladly buy them back.
Real KILLER video ... Do NOT allow this video to be shown in ANY machinists shop... No telling what liability will come of it. Sorry for your troubles but loved the video. Won't ask you to rinse and repeat.
Wow, I've never machined copper so, thanks for the heads up. I'll consider myself warned, if I ever venture in that territory.
Subscribed, that was great advice near the end," think twice using Copper for soft jaws" , I work with copper often (mostly copper sheets) but when it's in shape of rods, I only drill or braze , totally hate machining copper, your video showed all the challenges one will face machining this material, thank you for showing all the good with the bad.
Nova Scotia? Timbits? You are a Canuck!!!! Get yer ass to Crap Tire and buy a 12 inch rule. 2 Canuck Bucks. Love yer vids, wish I had yer skills....
Great project even with all the help from Bozo. It is sort of comforting to see that Bozo is an equal opportunity gremlin and devils ladies too. 😁
It is fun watching your videos - thanks! I have one suggestion for this video. Since LOCTITE 603 is an acrylic cement, you can use an accelerator. It will set up in seconds, fully cure in minutes and be even stronger. Just one little spray after the parts are together and the accelerator will wick through the joint. As an aircraft mechanic i use BSI insta-set from www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/bsi01-01453-5.php. You can use baking soda as an accelerator but it usually makes a mess. But baking soda with an acrylic makes a very strong filler.
I've already seen TOT's vid so I know you only took your shirt of to make it easier for him to dive into your parts😏
I've got a heap of copper busbars from an industrial switchboard... If I ever need some soft jaws I think I'll just solder them together rather than emulate all the fun you had.
Good to see the need for a light touch with the mini-mill demonstrated. Plenty of guys on Tube showing us how the Bridgeport can chew metal but that's not the real world for the majority of us. All your tips on the small lathe and mill apply equally to my ancient British machines , I learn something every time .
I do hope that you didn't throw that swarf away ( the proper name for chips). got to be handy for something.
We all have those projects, I’ve thrown stuff on the floor before, not gonna lie.
Hi Quinn, just discovered your channel- your videos are great and I’m learning a lot. Your quite the awesome chic ! Thanks
Since you asked it was very good for me. It made me laugh 😂
Loved this video. Just please tell me you vacuumed up and saved all those copper chips.
I feel your pain with this project, I've tried milling copper parts, and the stuff actively hates machinists.
Well done for keeping your sense of humour.
My big (ill-advised?) project for 2020 is to convert my SX3 mini-mill to CNC, and while I am at it I want to extend the Z-axis by 4" and to add the ability to adjustment the tramming.
I've just spent a big the heap of cash to order all the parts and materials.
What could possibly go wrong?
I mill copper all day long every day. I work for a electric company switchgear rebuilding shop. It's just a little bit abrasive, but other than that I don't have any problems with it.
@@demandred1957 This depends on scale.
I make precision parts with small features, and I break a lot of 1mm (40 thou) end-mills. Chip evacuation is a real problem with copper.
@@MaxWattage i usually don't go that small, about 1/16 .0625 is the smallest mills we use. Main thing is to use climb milling (G41) and lots of coolant. If we can't use coolant on a part, I only step down 1/16 per pass and crank the rpm up. Dont try full depth radial cutting. From 18 years of high precision copper milling experience.
@@demandred1957 thanks for the tips! Is that 1/16th of an inch, or 1/16th of the cutter diameter, or ?
Are there particular types of coolant that work better with copper?
At 7:27 the video says NEVER climb milling with copper, I'm wondering what the arguments are each way.
@@scottwillis5434 1/16 (.062) depth (z) per pass. but only on bigger mills. if I was using a 1/16 mill I would only go down maybe .010 per pass at 6500rpm and maybe 10-15 I.P.M.
I forget the name of the coolant we use, but it's nothing special..
For home workshop or "dry" machines WD-40 can't be beat. Same with aluminum. If you can't use coolant at all (like for plated parts) a hard stream of air right on top of the tool works pretty well.
They don't know what they are talking about with the no climb milling...
G41 (climb milling) works better because it deflects the tool AWAY from the work (more the harder you work the tool) which allows for a spring/ghost cut pass on the same path, and gets chips out of the way much better.
G42 (conventional) milling pulls the tool INTO the work the harder you push, and the chips have a longer path to take before they are cleared.
G42 will cause horrible chatter in tight corners, and can cause the part to be undersized if you are pushing really hard.
I only ever use G42 for a finish pass after roughing out with G41 because it can give a slightly better finish than a G41 spring pass (sometimes).
The only other time I use G42 is with saw blades.
Here's how I made copper soft jaws for my vise. I took a piece of 3/32" copper sheet a bit wider than the vise jaws and about 3" long and tightened the jaws on it. Then I took a hammer and pounded the extra back over the top of the vise. I repeated this for the opposite side. I've had these for over 20 years and they still work fine. Definitely not as pretty as yours but certainly less costly and without the excitement you had building yours. Keep up with the great videos!
Did similar last week, but used 22mm pipe offcuts. Slit them down one side, opened them up and did what you did. Didn't actually cost me a penny.
I made mine out of aluminum angle iron. Basically same method though they're conformed around the top.
@@GunFunZS what's better, Alu or Cu?
@@Dancer148 copper feels more premium. I used aluminum because it was cheap quick and easy. It does the job. I had a piece of 1.5 in by 1.5 in aluminum angle and clipped it off the same length as the width of the jaws. Clamp the jaws closed and then use a hammer and a piece of steel to form the rest of it around the shape of the jaw. Now you have a form fitting soft jaw.
@@GunFunZS thanks, sounds good, I will try your method.
0:30 Been refreshing a lathe for the for the past 2 months, every step has fought me tooth and nail. Worn half nuts, worn crossfeed nut, taper pins stuck, putting stuff back together the wrong way and having to do it three more times...about ready to send it for scrap metal
I must be a cheap old guy cause I have been using some jaw covers moulded from leather for years now to keep from marring soft stuff in the old vise. Admittedly, not as pretty as yours are, but easy on, easy off, etc.
Hi blondi just goes to show you can be human and make mistakes to. Fear not it's not that bad being human just ask one. If you can find one!!!!!!!!
So I don’t know if you will read this, or if it will ever be of any use to you, but if you ever need 3d-printed soft jaws again you should print them so that the printing layers will be compressed by the vise when tightened. That will be a lot stronger. And you might want to give PETG a try, it’s a bit tougher than pla.
Great development in techniques and project, your baptism in Copper is of a high order 🙏.
Copper is reactive with many materials, drilling or milling with uncoated tools is a pain, it also has a crazy coefficient of thermal expansion, gripping it in a vice and getting it warm creates very large loads. I know that using a toolmakers or grinding vice on a surface grinder with a copper block caused the vice to crack across the base 😰😰.
Excellent vlog, many thanks for sharing.
I’ve got permanent copper jaws (ala Tom Lipton) on mine. Love them.
C111 Sulphur copper is a nice, free-machining, short-chipping alloy which is merely *ludicrously*, rather than ruinously, expensive. It cuts almost as well as Tellurium copper. I've machined 55kg of that in the last year or two and only broken one M3 threadforming tap and one 2.75mm drill in over 500 holes. I only messed up the milling one of the 70-odd parts, but I used the remains to make some copper softjaws for my 4 inch vice. Win!
really another awesome video. love it
What do you do for work? For a paycheck, I mean. Do you have a job as an employee?
Quinn must be exaggerating. Surely copper can't be all *that* expensive.
(Googles)
Holy crap. Copper is expensive.
🤣
Also, 1100 aluminum (that's the mostly unalloyed stuff) is much softer than copper. Although I suppose if you were up for a challenge and wanted even softer metal soft jaws one could spring for pure tin.
Them Bronze Age guys not lookin so unsophisticated now, huh?! Have you checked out TPU filament? Basically it's polyurathane, lasts a lot longer than PLA or ABS in this application. Now that you're done with the copper, I mean... I'll get my coat
Far be it from me to revel in your misfortune, but that was both informative and amusing at the same time! Kudos for your persistence. I’m thoroughly enjoying your channel. Cheers! Oh and I’ll be all patreoned-up soon - I need some drawings 😊
Everyone has a nemesis.... I think you have just found yours Quinn 😂
Not just hers - i used to occaasionaly do runs of custom ground bars made from c110, in a Hurco VMC. Even with rigid toolholding, carbide endmills, and flòod coolant, it was still a hassle compared to 7075.
I think showing your mistakes and explaining your thought processes provide the best instruction for us home gamers. Thank you.
Thanks for including your mistakes, I like your honesty. Also, it is a good way of teaching. Why learn from your own mistakes when you can learn from someone else's?
Thanks for taking off your shirt! I suspect the absence of Tellurium angered the Tellur Gods so they put a curse on your machine.
Nice job there Quinn! Thanks for sharing your lessons - we are not here long enough to make all of the mistakes on our own, so it helps to learn and share with others.
I like that you explain the "Why's" along with the "How's", it makes for really good videos......
A very nice addition to your vise. It seems that Murphy's law wins again. Why doesn't he give up and go away ?
Wonderful job, thanks for sharing. Glad you stuck with it! Planning to make a set of brass jaws for a small jewelers vice I have laying around. 👍
@4:09
* throws T-shirt on table *
Me: Cool, it landed with Cu = copper as the only visible element!
* Spreads the T-shirt out *
Me immediately: WTH is Bx?
Me after a second: Why is this table so narrow?
Me later: That is not where Cu is supposed to be!! ... Ohh...
Nice trolling :D
Mental note: Leave copper in the metal bin! Seriously though I do have a piece of this copper in my collection that I will use your challenges as reference when it comes time to mill
Totally loving the PeriodicTable, I admit to having to rewind and look a little closer though :D (a few too many Br) I now identify as Gs.
Hello Quinn. I only became aware of your channel a couple of weeks ago and I've been binge watching - particularly the lathe series. What a pleasure.
I am very much an amateur in the machine shop. I was very fortunate that when an "old feller" at the end of my road moved out just over 20 years ago he offered me his lathe, bench press and misc tooling for a price that I could not refuse. I guess that the retirement home he was moving to had a no lathes policy alongside the more usual pet restrictions. Anyway, read a couple of books and became quite good at taking chunks of scrap and making them into smaller pieces of scrap. Even managed a couple of steam engines / hot air engines over the years.
Just a thought about holding the magnets in place when loctiting. Magnets or even a piece of steel on the face of the jaws so the magnets would pull themselves into the holes. Anyway, as I said, really enjoying your videos. Jeff (England-land)
If a retirement home has a no lathes policy, I'm not going...
Holy cow,
I’ve never machined copper. Maybe I never will 😊
Brilliant video, Quinn! I feel I have learned a lot from your misadventures. I am looking forward to seeing your electronics recovery video: I sense that my motor controller board is on its way out on my mill.
Did not know which side of the boarder you hailed from until you told me how to properly pronounce rare earth metals
I love someone who not only admits their mistakes but shows you how they were made.
Thanks Quinn
Tooth and nail. Still the end product looks great
That copper really is a very pretty metal.
Love the work you did here. I know the feeling of having your mill down for too long. I recently did some repairs to my ancient Cochrane bly and had to wait forever to get a missing part. I think I enjoy running the mill the most out of the machine tools, not sure why
Hey Quinn, Gathering all these uhoh's is part of getting experience. As I tell my kids and grandkids when they think I know everything "how do you get 20 yrs of experience? Work 20 yrs and make a lot of uhohs"
Second I saw those magnets at the beginning I thought, I bet they break. I had the exact same issue when doing a wood work project with the very same magnets 😂
i recently learned the joys of machining copper. felt like trying to cut chewed bubble gum by stepping on it on the sidewalk. I ended up saving my chips, figured at some point I'm going to make a forge that I might be able to melt them down and cast them into something fun.
Mix them with resin, cast them into some shape, and turn them on a wood lathe.
Haven't had that much trouble with copper. Have made a few small things such as electric motor brush holders. But brass... it's well known it can pull the tool into itself, including the cross slide.
Quinn totally agree with you on the copper. I have a craftex mill similar to yours and the bucking around if you try to mill too much copper is worrying. Well atleast you know how to fix the mill now :)
Keep making these cool videos.
Btw what spindle speed were you running on the face operation?
Later
Kyle
That's 250 rpm, with a 2" cutter. Same as I would use on steel. Machinery's Handbook recommends the same surface speed as steel for copper, which surprised me!
@@Blondihacks yeah I seen that too. I was figuring same as brass.
I did try high speeds with new carbide cutter and lots of WD40, light 0.008" passes and it was a mirror.
I feel your pain.
Well, they still look pretty bad ass 😁! Thanks for the share, Quinn😊
Thank you Quinn, I really enjoy your videos. For my soft jaws on my bench vise I got aluminum angle 2 by 1 inch. I cut it off 2 inches longer than the top of the vise jaws, hack sawed off the 1 inch, 1 inch from each end. I then bent the 2 inch side back closing off the ends. I drilled several small holes so the epoxy would actually stick to the aluminum and stay attached. I used epoxy to glue my magnets to top 1inch rail. I filled it all from end to end at the height of the magnets. That was a lot cheaper than your copper was. $60 in chips is a lot to waste.
I have just drew up my own low profile table clamps for my 3018 CNC router. The 3018 is about the size of your vise on your mill, 300 by 180 by 45 mm. I think I will get them made up this weekend. Time will tell on them. Keep up the great work and I will keep watching.
Lee
So a thought on the rivet technique. Copper is soft enough you don't have to peen the rivet, you can smash it. A simple shop clamp will likely do the job. Through drill the hole for the rivet, then give a slight countersink, or flare in the face of the jaw, for it to spread and grab on that side if you are going to lap it smooth after smashing it. Also I'd recommend doing a couple of practice parts. The trickiest part is getting your 'rivet' cut to the right length, too short and it doesn't fill the hole enough to hold, too long and it folds over. I've done hundreds of rivets this way. It's not the correct way to go about it, but when you are given a job to do but not allowed to have the proper tools, and god help you if you leave a hammer mark, it's what happens.
That's a great point! I'll consider something like that in the future.
You're describing "rivet squeezing," often used in the aerospace and automotive industries. And a good choice here.
@@g.tucker8682 I guess you would call it aerospace. We did this to rivet captive fasteners on panels on cruise missiles. I'd have given my eye teeth for a proper rivet gun and buck plate, but for some reason the powers that be refused to order us one.Their excuse was we weren't metals tech, and technically not supposed to be doing that job. realistically getting a sheet metal guy out from the flightline took an act of congress and a couple weeks of work. So we adapted.
Well persevered.
Huh....never occured to me to ask you to take your shirt off. Guess I shouldn't be surprised........
I enjoy seeing your mistakes, not because you made them but well because I do all to often. I think I will stick to AL for this one day... nice work
Well, I guess I am not the only one, but my mill is still intact. Best if one can sit back and laugh at themselves; may depend on the cost involved. For the "plastic" jaws you didn't mention the plastic type. PLA family is brittle, but ABS might last a little longer being stronger and has some flex. (Note: Printer heat values are higher for the bed and nozzle.) I printed a spur gear for my South Bend 10K lathe that drives the carriage out of ABS and it has been working fine for a number of months now. The 1st one I printed broke during a threading operation, however, I was doing one of those projects that hate you. It broke which was a good thing, as I sort of didn't stop soon enough on the internal threading. Better it than the stock metal gear as it acted like a carriage fuse.
holy moly... I was just drinking my beer and try to have a nice evening....;-) then I saw your trouble with the mill and the milling in this vid! And then immediatly there come a few projects in my mind when it was like the same for me....I really can feel with you....
Years ago, (before I discovered ebay) I purchased a couple of horrendously expensive top quality small end mills, and then proceeded to break them milling a copper guard for a knife, I still wake up screaming from time to time;).
A little tip for peening, if I have to peen something in an odd spot, I use a pin punch, that I rounded over the end, and tappy tap tap it , but yeah, those neobodiddlyum magnets don't like it rough.
Going through similar issues right now. I CNCified (That's a word, right?) a mill very similar to yours a few years back, but had a controller die on my more important work machine, so I had to steal parts from the mill. During this process, I realized that the motherboard for the controller was really the problem, only after burning out yet ANOTHER motor drive. $500 for a replacement with next day Saturday FedEx shipping, and I finally have a working controller for my work machine, but still none for my CNC mill. I'm waiting now for a quote for repairs on the other controller I cooked. Jeez. The best part is, I'm still using the same motor driver on my mill as you have, and I know it's only a matter of time before that one suffers a similar fate as yours. $$$!
The moral of this story ? Don't run your light duty Chinesium milling machine topless.Turns out their easily exited and tend to blow their top! L.O.L.😆
Good video, enjoyed very much. 😀
Valuable information regarding machining copper! I knew copper is expensive, but didn't know how expensive it really is! I better start saving my pennies (dollars) so I have the funds for an upcoming project.
Thanks for sharing!
When it rains it pours! Glad to see you pushed through the challenges and finished the project.
You did an absolutely beautiful job on those vice jaws and you overcame so many obstacles..now how to melt all that copper down ??? And make something else..
1:40 seems you are not using 100% infill. For a part this small and that has to withstand so much force, I would use 100% infill.
It's high in-fill, but not 100%, because it was gonna take many many hours. This is gyroid infill, though, which is very strong.
Thak you, Quinn, turning such frustrations into teaching _and_ comedy is why I am happy to have paid for a few of those copper shavings - you do make life better with your videos!
Loved the Canadian elements! Did you ever see "Look Around You"? I recommend the Sulphagne!
19:44 I can see the future!
I'm seeing... a Patreon drive... for a surface grinder!
Many thanks for posting these videos Quinn, they're always interesting, informative and amusing in pretty much equal measure. The only blemish is the massive Blondihacks logo imprinted at the bottom throughout the video. Please make it smaller - we know it's you!
Thanks for the kind words and the feedback! The logo is largely to prevent content theft, which is a big problem on RUclips. I’m experimenting with less obtrusive ways to do this though. Hang in there!
@@Blondihacks Thanks Quinn, and no worries - I'll still be watching!
come on @blondihacks you could have glues the fire bricks to the magnets, you missed an opportunity
Does that mean that i am not the only one that make miscalculations?