The cast iron chips comment was great. I worked with an older guy that went through an apprenticeship program years ago. He said there was a very rich pompous kid there whose parents bought him a beautiful Gerstner oak tool box that he had on his bench. One of the guys happened upon the remains of a broken 1” drill bit. He ground the end flat and welded it to a thin square of steel. He drilled out some pieces of oak and kept the shavings. He place the welded drill and plate on top of the prized tool box and coved the plate with the wood shavings so it looked like the drill bit was drilling into the tool box. When the owner of the box saw it he almost had a heart attack!!! Love your channel Joe!
Another 17 min of genius. I expected nothing less. I can confirm that the appearance of cast iron chips does effectively let you know that your hole is through.
Caching, It's another winner ! Smoke and mirrors are soo easy to use and really work well when exicuted well. When done just right no one will know the difference. This setup is like checking a square in the hardware store for being square. They are few and far between but easily correctable when it comes home. The regular carpenters squares need to be checked against an known edge every once in a while for sure eh. We are supposed to be patient craftsmen and doubt and check our tools all the time. As long as the customer isn't paying for the time we can do it all day long if necessary eh. Neat use for a threading insert. Shows there is always something new to learn. Keeps our noggins busy. They need that esp in our advancing years eh. Well at least mine does, LOL. See, in the end smoke and mirrors works perfectly. You nailed another one eh. I wonder what and when that saying of "Nailed another one" came from or when. See ya soon eh!
Hi Joe, Just an observation, as you certainly know fresh cut and polished brass sure looks pretty but it oxidizes very fast because of the zinc. bronze is more expensive and it stays shiny for far longer if it is not handled too much. Rich
Thank you for the boat load of lessons in this short video….. I would bet you have many shop shenanigans stories, hmmm…new series?…I know it would be wrong, but fun!…best Chuck
Fancy 123 block wheels, Damn why didn't I think of that! I used to struggle with small parts.(I am a big part repair guy!) However in large part due to your videos building these models the couple years or so. Using fixtures for example or your video on turning diameters on thin parts awhile back, I have a lot more fun when I need to make small parts and do not struggle or near as much. Nor do I dread doing this kind of work anymore. You are a treasure trove of information for many of us Joe. Yeah... we even talk about you at coffee break sometimes! Cheers
Headed to a robotics match in Belton this past weekend and made a point to drive past your shop quietly in case you were filming awesome stuff. Liberty Hill won 1st place in Waco the week before, but got knocked out in the finals at the Belton match. Super proud of the Bionic Panthers! Take care Joe.
Very nicely done using the step method, me I probably would have spent a lot of time doing the tapered drilling/reaming method. Will you talk about pranking young guys brought back a lot of memories for me. Not only pranks on me when I was young but now that I'm a senior machinist the pranks I do on the young guys myself. I had to do some modification on a bronze aluminum wiper die for a bending machine and the chips look like they were little gold flakes. I showed the chips and told one young guy that was assisting me in the machine shop that I had to do some machine work on a piece of gold and he fell for it. His eyes really lit up.
I used to work with precious metals. Its a pain in the butt accounting for the weight at the end of the day. The scrap allowance is nearly zero. You weigh the material issued, and at the end of the day, you weigh the parts and chips. They better match or it search time.
Like others, the cast iron chip's must have been played on you in your early apprentice days 😁 ??? Optical Illusion on the retainer pins, don't get any better than that. Great 3d drafting too! Thx Joe, ole Bear.
It takes me a month of planning a week to set up a part for 30 second cut you do it’s so effortlessly I would like to propose a challenge to build the Lowell Observatory’s refracting telescope quarter scale 😮
Lovely work. One of the things I've been finding useful is thin ptfe sheet (used in cooking) and cutting washers out of it using a circle cutter.. it's very tough and low friction. I don't think it's appropriate here but the thought occurred. Cheers
You could make a simple second barrel if you don't want to damage this one ;) I know you mentioned chains, will there be loops for the ropes you see on ships to reduce recoil ?
I like that you highlight that close enough is good enough some times. I would have rat holed making or buying a tapered reamer, but straight was perfectly fine.
Beautiful detail work as usual and very interesting comments.Here from sunny Spain I would expect more input from the old Europe considering that those artifacts are easy to find.All your work is very much appreciated.Thank you Joe.
Absolutely gorgeous “eye candy” work. Enjoying your channel so much. I have a shop made tool to accurately part off lengths of small bars (1/4 x 36) to print stopping from the end of the bar, then cutting off to print length. The sliding stop is mounted in the tailstock in such a way that it accurately positions the end of the stock to + - .002 then backs off slightly to allow the part to fall without interference. I would like to share this tool with you through your email if permitted but I cannot find it on your website. Thanks.
@@Bobs-Wrigles5555 Thanks, I’ll do that. It’s a very simple tool that I’ve used to make thousands of small shafts for telescope systems to exact lengths.
I'm amused that you're using mahogany wood and a walnut stain. I worked in a furniture shop and we often used walnut wood and a mahogany stain. Looks great!
Ummm... you could just use an of the shelf taper pin and corresponding reamer? They go down to fairly small sizes, although 7/0 isn't as microscopic as the name would imply. We'll expect to see a breech with an interrupted thread setup in the next build. 😁 Even without a toch-hole or firing pin, it's an interesting mechanism.
Greetings Paul. Good to see a comment from you. For reasons unknown, I just didn't want to use a tapered pin. I really wanted a square tapered pin, but my time is getting short to work on this and I needed a good compromise solution. I'm happy with the visual. Thanks for the comment.
Lovely order of operations for those pins. However i normally use my edge finder similar to yours at 260rpms which was manufacturer instructions from another set. Hope the speed is not affecting accuracy of the edge finding, or should we use a higher speed
I've had 2 different machine shop teachers and a half dozen machinists tell me they stay around 1000 rpm. I've always had good results with it, but they seem to be very forgiving.
@@bradyoung6663 thanks Brad. Guess maybe i was careful with speed as i didnt want to damage the edge tool however if i verified measurements it was quite on the spot. But if higher speed allows same results then ill go for it🙂i a hobbyist machinist so i was never too concerned about accuracy but that changed as the skill improved😄
Drilling until cast iron chips come up seemed to be a much used technique in the last shop I worked in, the small drill press there was unusable for small parts with how much of a table had been drilled away
Pass the reamer back through the main bore and do the same thing with the drill used for the cross holes. Working the burrs back and forth should cause them to break. I di the OD burrs with a fine file.
@@CatNolara I have found that most reamers taper slightly to the rear. Slip the part over the shank of the reamer and bring it in from the back by hand. Pick away at it slowly and the part should easily slide off the front of the reamer when done. I don't usually put the part back in the machine.
As usual, great work, great filming and editing.. When will we see the powder ignited and the canon ball flying? Joking! What would come next? Nano machines in the size of atoms? Joking!
Interesting how back in the day, they used to use a lot of tapered pins and bolts for things like Steam Engines where today, with CNC and high tech machine tools, you don't hear about them.
Rite Joe, Have a mate who is just mad about sailing ships, would love to make him one of these one day! Will need a wee bit more practice though🤔Stay safe n well Dude. TFS, GB :)
I once worked at this place and there was this emptyhead who worked there... It were really hot one day so we told him to go turn sun off... He spent half hour looking for the switch... ☹🇬🇧
LOL. Some time it really makes a fella wonder. I once had a really good fella as a welder put a one inch thick hook on the back of an excavator bucket. 3 times he put it on backwards (upside down). If he hadn't been an excellent welder I would have sent him home. I believe he is still there. He could lay in an overhead, sloping weld as smooth as glass. I am good but not that good eh. LOL.
@@joepie221 in Canada we have a Harbour Freight type store called Princess Auto who just happen to sell adjustable wrenches calibrated in fractional inches on one face and metric calibrations on the other. We call them Newfoundland verniers.
Hi I have a fadal 88hs milling. I have a problem with the tool offset. When i call T1 and tried to set the offset the tool number not showing instead of tool number ? this symbol appears and when i call T2 symbol change in to 1 When i call each tool the exact tool number not showing instead the previous shows and When i call T1 In the calling screen Its says TOOL 0.3637... IN THE SPINDLES and when i Call T2 the 0 change to 1. What should i do? please help....
This happen to me once, but I don't recall the fix. I had to engage a repair man. Give Eagle machine in Arlington TX a call. Fadal specialists and very helpful.
Very nice! You're going to drive Mr Pete crazy with the crack about drilling until cast iron chips show, though!
He's probably heard it before.
The cast iron chips comment was great. I worked with an older guy that went through an apprenticeship program years ago. He said there was a very rich pompous kid there whose parents bought him a beautiful Gerstner oak tool box that he had on his bench. One of the guys happened upon the remains of a broken 1” drill bit. He ground the end flat and welded it to a thin square of steel. He drilled out some pieces of oak and kept the shavings. He place the welded drill and plate on top of the prized tool box and coved the plate with the wood shavings so it looked like the drill bit was drilling into the tool box. When the owner of the box saw it he almost had a heart attack!!! Love your channel Joe!
We did that with a 1" hex head bolt.
Oh, what a wicked sense of humor. You absolutely had me at “cast iron chips” until you laughed.
I had to clarify that it was a joke. Its in my liability contract. :)
Great Job! Great video! The fit and finish on your parts is awesome. Thanks for sharing Joe.
Thanks 👍
Wow! Those wheels look superb! It's been a pleasure watching you through this build.
Thanks. I'm almost ready to move on to the D10.
Another 17 min of genius. I expected nothing less. I can confirm that the appearance of cast iron chips does effectively let you know that your hole is through.
Loved the cast iron joke.🤣
Caching, It's another winner ! Smoke and mirrors are soo easy to use and really work well when exicuted well. When done just right no one will know the difference. This setup is like checking a square in the hardware store for being square. They are few and far between but easily correctable when it comes home. The regular carpenters squares need to be checked against an known edge every once in a while for sure eh. We are supposed to be patient craftsmen and doubt and check our tools all the time. As long as the customer isn't paying for the time we can do it all day long if necessary eh. Neat use for a threading insert. Shows there is always something new to learn. Keeps our noggins busy. They need that esp in our advancing years eh. Well at least mine does, LOL. See, in the end smoke and mirrors works perfectly. You nailed another one eh. I wonder what and when that saying of "Nailed another one" came from or when. See ya soon eh!
I got the visual and function. I'd say its a win.
@@joepie221 LOL, A win, win.
Cast Iron dust? Like my mom used to say. "Back up 'till you hear glass breaking:"
What you mean "this one" We like ALL of them.
Might want to make some chocks for them wheels. Don't want them cannon crashing off your desk in heavy seas.
Thanks for the Saturday morning motivation! Now I'll get out to the garage and back to my own machining project.
Simple and beautiful. Thanks for sharing your craft.
My pleasure.
Hi Joe, Just an observation, as you certainly know fresh cut and polished brass sure looks pretty but it oxidizes very fast because of the zinc. bronze is more expensive and it stays shiny for far longer if it is not handled too much.
Rich
I have a polish that extends the shine considerably. Once I shine it, I will only touch it when necessary.
As always, very enjoyable.
Glad you enjoyed it
What's a little cast iron dust amongs friends... LOL I do like the solution for ring feature. Thanks for sharing.
Exactly.
Good job I’d finished my coffee before that cast iron gag! 😂
Thats a keeper.
That is a win. Great parts, and some excellent shop gems too. 👍👍
Joe that is a great touch on this project nothing but good stuff from a true master Thank you again can’t wait to see it finished.
Thanks. Its getting very close.
Thank you for the boat load of lessons in this short video….. I would bet you have many shop shenanigans stories, hmmm…new series?…I know it would be wrong, but fun!…best Chuck
I'd be afraid to pass on some of them. Thanks for stopping by Chuck.
Fancy 123 block wheels, Damn why didn't I think of that! I used to struggle with small parts.(I am a big part repair guy!) However in large part due to your videos building these models the couple years or so. Using fixtures for example or your video on turning diameters on thin parts awhile back, I have a lot more fun when I need to make small parts and do not struggle or near as much. Nor do I dread doing this kind of work anymore. You are a treasure trove of information for many of us Joe. Yeah... we even talk about you at coffee break sometimes! Cheers
Thanks.
Headed to a robotics match in Belton this past weekend and made a point to drive past your shop quietly in case you were filming awesome stuff. Liberty Hill won 1st place in Waco the week before, but got knocked out in the finals at the Belton match. Super proud of the Bionic Panthers! Take care Joe.
Was this the FIRST competition where they collect and throw balls? I sponsored the panther team several years back.
Elegant solutions as usual Joe - and overall some really nice features on the cannon now. Very satisfying. :)
Very nicely done using the step method, me I probably would have spent a lot of time doing the tapered drilling/reaming method.
Will you talk about pranking young guys brought back a lot of memories for me. Not only pranks on me when I was young but now that I'm a senior machinist the pranks I do on the young guys myself. I had to do some modification on a bronze aluminum wiper die for a bending machine and the chips look like they were little gold flakes. I showed the chips and told one young guy that was assisting me in the machine shop that I had to do some machine work on a piece of gold and he fell for it. His eyes really lit up.
I used to work with precious metals. Its a pain in the butt accounting for the weight at the end of the day. The scrap allowance is nearly zero. You weigh the material issued, and at the end of the day, you weigh the parts and chips. They better match or it search time.
Like others, the cast iron chip's must have been played on you in your early apprentice days 😁 ??? Optical Illusion on the retainer pins, don't get any better than that. Great 3d drafting too! Thx Joe, ole Bear.
Thanks Bear. Good to hear from you.
Hey Joe.
I am glad there were no deceptions with the model machine kits.
The details on those were what made them special.
Great....now I have to go 110%. I probably would have anyway.
Another Master Class taught by Dr. Joe! Excellent technique, super nice work. Thank you!
Very nice work as always Joe. Going to look very good when it's all done.
Fingers crossed!
Thanks for the video Joe
Another great video. Like the disposable V block. Thanks Joe
They come in handy.
Nice set of wheels Joe
Immensely satisfying to watch you work.
G'day Joe. Love the contrast of brass and timber with the model build. Coming along very nicely. Cheers, Aaron.
Thanks 👍 I like it too.
You never cease to amaze me. Great work and genius solution.
Thank you very much!
It takes me a month of planning a week to set up a part for 30 second cut you do it’s so effortlessly I would like to propose a challenge to build the Lowell Observatory’s refracting telescope quarter scale 😮
Why so big? :)
@@joepie221 a size of reason
My neighbor, loves my big telescope she can see mars
A Piece of Jewelry Joe...well done!
Thank you.
👍 ! Always enjoy how you think outside the box. 🤔. As in the ( almost ) tapered pins .😉 !
They still look tapered.
@@joepie221 , yes they did, and it was awesome how you did it .
Lovely work. One of the things I've been finding useful is thin ptfe sheet (used in cooking) and cutting washers out of it using a circle cutter.. it's very tough and low friction. I don't think it's appropriate here but the thought occurred. Cheers
It will be ready to take it's place in line, firing a broadside in no time. 👍👍Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Thanks, you too.
You could make a simple second barrel if you don't want to damage this one ;)
I know you mentioned chains, will there be loops for the ropes you see on ships to reduce recoil ?
There should be several more. ( should be )
BOOM. Nice looking cannon. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks Harold.
Very satisfying when it all fits together, I think that is something we all shared with you watching this video.
Thanks. This worked out well. The illusion is spot on.
it's the little things that bring the joy!
So very true.
"No cast iron was harmed during the making of this video." LOL
Exquisite Joe. I didnt comment earlier, but the wheels are a thing of beauty.
Thank you Sir. It's almost done.
I like that you highlight that close enough is good enough some times. I would have rat holed making or buying a tapered reamer, but straight was perfectly fine.
Tapered square would have been period correct, but I like the solution.
Awesome as usual.
Thank you!
Every video, Joe. I learned something new.
Great job joe
✌️💖&💡 via Bridgeport,CT
Glad you enjoyed it
Another impeccable video in the can, thanks Joe!
Glad you enjoyed it.
That is EXACTLY what I'm going to do with me mate. Fella is OCD when it comes to setting up. He is going to crap himself. 🤣
Those came out really nice Joe😉
Thanks 👍
Beautiful detail work as usual and very interesting comments.Here from sunny Spain I would expect more input from the old Europe considering that those artifacts are easy to find.All your work is very much appreciated.Thank you Joe.
Thank you.
Absolutely gorgeous “eye candy” work. Enjoying your channel so much. I have a shop made tool to accurately part off lengths of small bars (1/4 x 36) to print stopping from the end of the bar, then cutting off to print length.
The sliding stop is mounted in the tailstock in such a way that it accurately positions the end of the stock to + - .002 then backs off slightly to allow the part to fall without interference. I would like to share this tool with you through your email if permitted but I cannot find it on your website. Thanks.
Ellie, have a look on his about page, where it says "View Email Address"😉
@@Bobs-Wrigles5555 Thanks, I’ll do that. It’s a very simple tool that I’ve used to make thousands of small shafts for telescope systems to exact lengths.
@@ellieprice363 No problem Ellie👍
I always wondered how to move those super-heavy 1 2 3 blocks you have. ;-)
I'm amused that you're using mahogany wood and a walnut stain. I worked in a furniture shop and we often used walnut wood and a mahogany stain.
Looks great!
Interesting.
Just magic Joe!
Ummm... you could just use an of the shelf taper pin and corresponding reamer? They go down to fairly small sizes, although 7/0 isn't as microscopic as the name would imply.
We'll expect to see a breech with an interrupted thread setup in the next build. 😁 Even without a toch-hole or firing pin, it's an interesting mechanism.
I had the same thought, then realized they are probably not available in brass
Greetings Paul. Good to see a comment from you. For reasons unknown, I just didn't want to use a tapered pin. I really wanted a square tapered pin, but my time is getting short to work on this and I needed a good compromise solution. I'm happy with the visual. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks Joe
A thing of beauty!
I would be tempted to give the wood a coat of varnish and call it a day. ;)
I have a few more eyelets to fab and mount, then the varnish and assembly.
impressive as usual.test shoot with the lighter from matches it gives a puff flame and smoke 😊
Play it back in slow motion and overdub the sound. Done.
Nice work, Joe...very pretty cannon!
Thanks. So far, so good.
Great video once again. I am learning so much from your videos. Keep up the great work Joe. Regards from Norway :)
I'm glad they help. Regards from Austin Texas USA.
Lovely order of operations for those pins. However i normally use my edge finder similar to yours at 260rpms which was manufacturer instructions from another set. Hope the speed is not affecting accuracy of the edge finding, or should we use a higher speed
I've had 2 different machine shop teachers and a half dozen machinists tell me they stay around 1000 rpm. I've always had good results with it, but they seem to be very forgiving.
@@bradyoung6663 thanks Brad. Guess maybe i was careful with speed as i didnt want to damage the edge tool however if i verified measurements it was quite on the spot. But if higher speed allows same results then ill go for it🙂i a hobbyist machinist so i was never too concerned about accuracy but that changed as the skill improved😄
I honestly don't think I've ever run one under 1000 rpm.
Drilling until cast iron chips come up seemed to be a much used technique in the last shop I worked in, the small drill press there was unusable for small parts with how much of a table had been drilled away
The poor drill press table has to be the most abused machine in the shop, next to the horizontal bandsaw.
Another beautiful piece Joe! Take care and stay safe bud! God bless!✝️🙏🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks, you too!
So you were not planning on using it in a war? That is an excellent demonstration of good fixture usage.
No wars for this one.
Could you use a Jack Screw to raise and lower the barrel?
Those were used on later guns but for the era this gun is from a tapered or stepped wedge is the correct part.
"No cast iron was harmed, in the making of this video."
But the same can't be said of the aluminium. 😁
I did hit it.
thanks for sharing keep up the good work.
Nice job
Any tips on how to deburr the inner edge of those holes?
Pass the reamer back through the main bore and do the same thing with the drill used for the cross holes. Working the burrs back and forth should cause them to break. I di the OD burrs with a fine file.
@@joepie221 ok, but how do you hold such fragile parts for reaming? In a collet in the lathe?
@@CatNolara I have found that most reamers taper slightly to the rear. Slip the part over the shank of the reamer and bring it in from the back by hand. Pick away at it slowly and the part should easily slide off the front of the reamer when done. I don't usually put the part back in the machine.
@@joepie221 ok, interesting. Thanks, I'm gonna try that next time I come across something similar again
Sneaky! I might have tried clock pins. Your model, your solution. Looks great!
Thanks 👍
Joe, I know this is in the wrong place, but, I need advice on a knurling tool for my 13 inch lathe. Please advise , sir. Jimmy
Scissor knurl is the way to go.
Hey Joe, Great vid this one is going in the Rolodex, thank you sir
Gives a great result and the desired visual.
Looks great!
Thanks!
THANKS JOE
Perfect
"No sense in boring you…" very punny. ;^)
As usual, great work, great filming and editing..
When will we see the powder ignited and the canon ball flying? Joking!
What would come next? Nano machines in the size of atoms? Joking!
A beautiful twin cylinder vertical Stuart steam engine is next. D10 kit.
@@joepie221 Not my top interest but Your way of doing things never gets boring. I'll be watching.
Interesting how back in the day, they used to use a lot of tapered pins and bolts for things like Steam Engines where today, with CNC and high tech machine tools, you don't hear about them.
They have their place. Lathe lead screws are a good place to start.
Rite Joe, Have a mate who is just mad about sailing ships, would love to make him one of these one day! Will need a wee bit more practice though🤔Stay safe n well Dude. TFS, GB :)
If I can find all my chicken scratch drawings, I'll clean them up and make them available. Stay well.
@@joepie221 That would be awesome Joe! Cheers Dude👍
Definitely a cast iron table that looks like swiss cheese is a proof of well drilled through holes.
Standard issue on most drill press tables. :)
I once worked at this place and there was this emptyhead who worked there...
It were really hot one day so we told him to go turn sun off...
He spent half hour looking for the switch...
☹🇬🇧
LOL. Some time it really makes a fella wonder. I once had a really good fella as a welder put a one inch thick hook on the back of an excavator bucket. 3 times he put it on backwards (upside down). If he hadn't been an excellent welder I would have sent him home. I believe he is still there. He could lay in an overhead, sloping weld as smooth as glass. I am good but not that good eh. LOL.
Metric adjustable wrenches were always my go to for the new guys. I actually have one marked 300mm.
@@joepie221 in Canada we have a Harbour Freight type store called Princess Auto who just happen to sell adjustable wrenches calibrated in fractional inches on one face and metric calibrations on the other. We call them Newfoundland verniers.
Hi
I have a fadal 88hs milling. I have a problem with the tool offset.
When i call T1 and tried to set the offset the tool number not showing instead of tool number ? this symbol appears and when i call T2 symbol change in to 1
When i call each tool the exact tool number not showing instead the previous shows and
When i call T1
In the calling screen
Its says TOOL 0.3637... IN THE SPINDLES and when i Call T2 the 0 change to 1.
What should i do?
please help....
This happen to me once, but I don't recall the fix. I had to engage a repair man. Give Eagle machine in Arlington TX a call. Fadal specialists and very helpful.
@@joepie221 thanks, i solved the problem by clearing the memory and full parameter
@@joepie221 1 more thing , can you give me a any 3d program of fadal please
now you need pins to secure the pins lol
and those pins will need pins.....
If ya give a mouse a cookie..........( look it up )
So how do you drill a hole when it is on top of the thinnest parallel you have?
Make a custom parallel.
Great looking modelling as per normal but wouldn't the nuts have been square rather than hex?
Probably. Yes
Joe Pie - YOU CHEATER !
Fabulous stuff - - as usual. Thank you.
Thanks.
Verrrrry cool:)
Thanks. Almost done.
👍
✋🏼🇦🇺👍🏼