Very much love the This Old Tony vibe here. I hope all is well in his world and of course yours as well. Thank you for sharing the great videos you make. 🙂
as someone who just made 16 stainless steel spacers recently, i can say that i still am on my toes when i machine stainless, especially tapping (the spaces i made needed an m8 threads and it was a sketchy experience tapping each spacer)
Great video. The only thing I would add to your discussion of hot roll vs cold roll is residual stress. Depending on what you’re doing and what you need to end up with. If you need a flat part and you’re starting from round bar, if you use cold roll and machine half the bar off, it’s going to move on you and no longer be straight. If I had to do that, hot roll would be a better choice as the hot rolling process sort of anneals the material and leaves the material relatively stress free. Cold roll is great if you’re keeping the material close to its as-purchased form.
What Matthew said. Cutting cold roll releases the internal stress and warping can be severe in thin finished sections. The trick is to have the material stress relieved. If you don't have a furnace the material can be purchased already stress relieved, though you have to pay extra for it.
And to add a tiny extra detail: in the video he said he'd choose cold rolled for the lathe, and that's usually a safe choice because the lathe generally cuts symmetrically around the stock (obviously).
Perfect timing for this video. This is something I have been struggeling with and challenging myself to learn more about. Using the right material for the right project is important and there is a lot to learn. Thanks for making this video.
Gday, this was a really informative video and no BS, my local steel supplier mainly only stocks 4140 in bar form hence why I use it in my projects, where I live I don’t have a real issue with rust thankfully, the cost of material now has gone up in a big way, I do use a lot of secondhand materials like s-cams and trailer axles, cost nothing to get and very little, great video mate, throughly enjoyed watching, cheers
I’ve recently decided to start learning how to lathe. I bought a Sieg C3 mini lathe. This sort of video is extremely helpful (as well as learning tips by simply watching your other videos). I certainly appreciate this sort of content!!
The advice in this video is pretty good. If you do need stainless steel for your work, you might consider 415/416 free machining stainless. Not as strong or as corrosion resistant as 300 series stainless, but it cuts/taps easily, and a mirror finish is possible for things like machine crank handles. You pay a premium for smaller cut lengths but if you buy larger amounts to get a lower price you will end up with most of that material sitting on your storage rack for years. In the long run you are better off buying just enough for you project. There are suppliers that specialize in smaller cut lengths and you should seek them out. Cheers from NC/USA
I appreciate this video so much. I’ve watched so many machining videos and never even crossed my mind the different types of the same alloy can machine differently . Again thank you so much for this amazing video !!❤
This is amazing thank you so much! I’ve been yearning to get into metal machining and although I don’t have direct access to really any machining materials right now, I still have my books and the words of the wise. Please keep this series going, this is the exact guidance I’ve been looking for, and I’m excited to see what you’ll have next for us.
Thanks for using SAE grades when describing materials. When reading Workshop Practice Series books, I resorted to creating a spreadsheet for mapping SAE to BS material grades.
I have found a good source for 1045/4140 material if you are not concerned on the specific alloy. I have been using scrap hydraulic cylinder rods. They are all either 1045 or 4140, and you can pick them up at the scrap yard for cheap. The only key is that you need to cut the chrome plating off before you do anything else. Cheap and easy. Go get some scrap cylinders to try.
Great video. I don't know how easy it is to come by in your area but I would recommend one additional metal to your list especially if using a small lathe/mill and it is 1144, it's resulferized for easier machining as well as some really good characteristics to it's properties.
@@WhenDoesTheVideoActuallyStart It's a carbon steel. Often called "stressproof" as it's stress relieved during manufacturing so your part doesn't have the tendency to bend during the machining process.
Yes very useful. Going to write that list down. Have made quite a few things but have never used more than mild steel , bronze and stainless. Without having a clue what their make up was. Unless I treat most of my creations with a spray on fluid used to keep gun barrels free of corrosion they soon get spotty with rust or electrolysis.
In Taiwan, 4140, 1045, 1018 all costs the same. However 4140 is only available as round bars, hot rolled, annealed. There are alloys like FDAC, P20, etc. that I've yet to try out but if I need pre hard 4140 then I will probably give FDAC and others a try (those are all used for making molds).
Great overview! Interesting to hear that 1214 and 12L14 machine about the same. In the UK I normally get these as EN1A and EN1A leaded. Plain old EN1A is easier to get so I’ll have to try some of it. Regarding copper, if you can get one of the free-machining grades containing tellurium or sulphur, you’ll love it 😊 Way easier than brass, nice chips, great for decorative parts.
Great video. Simple and to the point. I have used most all of these. I have not used 12L14. When machining cast iron it is best to cover the ways. I like your coffee pot. 🤣
Great video ! You have to be careful buying stuff on eBay, I have had a few surprises in the past from a few sellers. Probably just dumpster divers selling what ever they find and proposing to be a metal supplier. I usually reach for 4140 90% of the time , mainly because I know it is strong enough for most jobs I do and I have a pile of it . A guy at work gave me a pile of 1/2 inch round bar he scabbed out of a steel bin at one of his customers, it didn’t seem to rust so I thought maybe some kind of stainless- except this stuff was like machining chewing gum and broke really easily so it ended up in the scrap bin at my work !
Machining characteristics of different 3D printed plastics might be a good addition to this subject? Today they even come in form stable heat resistant versions. Resin up to 170C and thermal plastic up to 240C if I remember correctly. I'm thinking that could possibly make them suitable for replacing expensive castings for small steam model engines. Also Delrin and PTFE are used in model steam engines for bearings, and piston rings of various designs. Things like suitable tooling, speeds and lubrication would be of interest. Though I realize you shouldn't really talk about things without having personal experience. So it comes down to your personal practices.
Plastics, Brass and Bronze tend to "chatter" or "gouge". When drilling these materials I have found that it is better to "scour" them. After sharpening, it is best to dress the sharp edge by "blunting" the edge. A 90 degree face is best.
Good job, 👍 I hunted for something like me, I started playing with cutting. I would like to see the second episode but devoted only to steel, basics and some of the most important species I know but there are so many types that it's hard to know which for what. If you have such knowledge, divide it because there are a lot of channels on YT in which steel is discussed for a specific use but it would be nice to have such information in one episode. Dobra robota, na coś takiego polowałem jak ja zaczynałem się bawić z obróbką skrawaniem. Ja chętnie bym obejrzał drugi odcinek ale poświęcony tylko stali, podstawy i kilka najważniejszych gatunków znam ale jest tego tyle rodzajów że ciężko się zorientować która do czego. Jeżeli masz taką wiedzę to się podziel bo jest dużo kanałów na yt w których jest omawiana stal do konkretnego zastosowania ale fajnie by było mieć takie informacje w jednym odcinku.
copper. i HATE that metal with a passion. exactly for the same reason: it's gummy and likes to snap drills and sticks to my inserts like poop. 4140 and brass, i LOVE those. exactly for the same reason too: it's very easy to get a really good finish with those. and while 4140 is tough to turn and mill, and you can heat treat it to make decent tooling. for everything else, i use aluminum or mild steels.
Delrin, UHMW and PTFE have properties I'm interested in. But then I'm into spring powered airguns. I'm pretty interested in low friction plastics for that reason.
As a builder, I hate stainless fasteners with a passion. Stainless is good for one thing and one thing only. It's generally worse for every other property that you want in a steel.
Thank you. But I’ve seen videos of people using delron (spelling) as a plastic (type) element used in spacers and such. Why? And for some stupid reason, I would like to see various grades of carbon fiber worked into a part.
Delrin is a Dupont trade name for a family of acetal plastic. It is used for its lubricity and resistance to creep under load. It is also not nearly as hygroscopic as something like nylon.
That was well done. Is S12L14 still available? I have not seen it around for some years. Did I miss it, or did you leave out Silver steel which is normally held in stock by engineering suppliers so readily available and can be quite useful at times having a ground finish. Aluminium 2011 is about all I have ever used in aluminium, as 6061 is just too difficult to turn with low powered lathes when you want production quantities. Folks with large lathes don't worry about it, they just turn up the feed, increase the cut and pour on the coolant. A large shop near me, won't have 2011 in the place, whereas I try not to have any 6061 around. Interesting what we will come up with as a video, when out machines are not working, both of mine are down at the moment too. I think you covered all that was needed and this video should be really useful to folks starting out machining.
I can recommend 6082 aluminium over 6060 or 6061. It has pretty much all the benefits of 6061, but is slightly stronger, not as soft and way nicer to machine. The chips still do get rather stringy, but it's nowhere near as susceptible to raise a bur as 6061, especially when turning. Luckily I can get it at the same shop here in germany as 6061 and while it is a bit more expensive, it's not really all that noticeable in my hobby grade quantities.
The chrome content of 4140 is far too low to have any significant effect on resisting corrosion. The primary effect of the chromium is to improve hardenability.
in my country, hardware store metals (and about anything else actually) is about 5 times more expensive than at a proper supplier and also always of unknown alloy. I've found 10mm bolts that were 12.73 times more expensive in a big hardware store than on amazon
Great video, what supplier are you using for your projects? I live in Brisbane and I’m looking for someone who is not asking for a kidney or a leg to just buy a brass round rod, craaazy expensive stuff!
I buy most of my material from Edson steel. They are not the cheapest, nor the most expensive, but they do have the advantage that they cater towards the hobbyist. So they don’t have minimum order quantities for most materials.
Leaded steels like 12L14 should not be welded. Lead fumes are not good for you… In case folks like me (Canadian) are reading this as well, FYI sulphur tends to make a steel more prone to cold embrittlement, so beware of high-sulphur free machining steels at low temperatures.
As a total beginner with no experience, what exactly do you mean by "more difficult to machine"? I thought most machining was done through CNC controls? Does this just mean that we'd have to adjust our tools and have them take that little bit longer than with an "easier to machine" material?
Machining difficulty can mean any number of things. Even plastics can be difficult to machine. It doesn't just mean the actual force required to cut the material.
Lots of hobbyists don't have/use cnc machines. Manual stuff is fun. But even on CNC machines you will have to play around with feeds and speeds to get good chips, which might be harder on something considered less machineable. Some materials gum up and stick to tools, some are prone to work harden, some require special treatment in other ways
Man I wonder what I’m doing wrong because the machining I’ve done with brass has been terrible, it always leaves a horrendous finish no matter If I use HSS or carbide, but I’ve had amazing luck with 12L14, all aluminums and most steel but brass just terrible for me at least the ones I’ve tried like 260 or free machining brass but maybe I just am not doing something right
Great information, but I have never seen so many ads on a video like this. It almost made the video unwatchable. Interpreting right in the middle of sentences every 2-3 minutes as you got to each new topic. I had to continually rewind to before the ad to actually gather the information about what you were talking about.
This is mainly aimed at the hobbyist that might buy stuff from the hardware store so it’s good info all the same. Plus i can’t do the two hour round trip to the metal supplier all that often, so Bunnings is more convenient. Cheers
Sorry to say, but the first sentence about aluminium is a bit of an unlucky statement. It is not "the best starting material". The best material to start with is always the one that fulfils the needs of what you want to achieve. If you want to just make nonsense parts for practising and look for an easy to cut material, SOME aluminium alloys might well be the material to choose. But as soon as you want to polish your skills and at the same time make something useful, the function of the part you make has to drive the material to use. And it will always be a tradeoff between price, supply situation, toughness, hardness, machineability, weldability, density, corrosion resistance, looks and coolness factor.
Big disagree on the aluminium. I'd very much rate it as an advanced material that beginners should avoid at all cost. It has so many disadvantegeous properties such that you cant just use it willy-nilly for whatever. You need to think real hard on how to design your part to overcome these disadvantages. The real beginner material is mild steel which is exactly the opposite. Mild steel has decent enough properties sucg that whatever you're trying to achieve is PROBABLY going to work without thinking too much. And the MILD in mild steel makes it easily enough machineable that you'll have no issues on that front just as with aluminium. On top of that, it's also much cheaper and easier to get in bigger dimensions. As far as Germany goes, I can get huge chunks of mild steel for a decent price because it's used everywhere in machine shops around the country. Huge chunks of aluminium, however, are mostly for specialized industry and are thereby hard come by for the private end consumer.
![[DOKKAN BATTLE] Worldwide Campaign Announcement Video](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zxfEiMksZQs/mqdefault.jpg)
Opening had real This Old Tony vibes, love it
Instantly looked for this comment
@@alvinxiong8832 Same here... only reason I came down to the comments so fast 🤣
Wasn't just me thinking that then 😂😂
I was about to comment the save thing 😂🤣
I’d argue he’s the Australian ToT just on a smaller scale
Very much love the This Old Tony vibe here.
I hope all is well in his world and of course yours as well. Thank you for sharing the great videos you make. 🙂
Artisan Makes This Old Tony
🤝
Thanks for making this video! It’s a great summary for a hobbyist who doesn’t know where to start learning more about their materials
I’m liking the “this old tony” vibe in the opening, great video
really loving the TOT vibes
as someone who just made 16 stainless steel spacers recently, i can say that i still am on my toes when i machine stainless, especially tapping (the spaces i made needed an m8 threads and it was a sketchy experience tapping each spacer)
Well, done! I love this old Tony, and more of us need to pay homage to him! Well done!❤
Great video. The only thing I would add to your discussion of hot roll vs cold roll is residual stress. Depending on what you’re doing and what you need to end up with. If you need a flat part and you’re starting from round bar, if you use cold roll and machine half the bar off, it’s going to move on you and no longer be straight. If I had to do that, hot roll would be a better choice as the hot rolling process sort of anneals the material and leaves the material relatively stress free. Cold roll is great if you’re keeping the material close to its as-purchased form.
What Matthew said. Cutting cold roll releases the internal stress and warping can be severe in thin finished sections. The trick is to have the material stress relieved. If you don't have a furnace the material can be purchased already stress relieved, though you have to pay extra for it.
And to add a tiny extra detail: in the video he said he'd choose cold rolled for the lathe, and that's usually a safe choice because the lathe generally cuts symmetrically around the stock (obviously).
Perfect timing for this video. This is something I have been struggeling with and challenging myself to learn more about. Using the right material for the right project is important and there is a lot to learn. Thanks for making this video.
Gday, this was a really informative video and no BS, my local steel supplier mainly only stocks 4140 in bar form hence why I use it in my projects, where I live I don’t have a real issue with rust thankfully, the cost of material now has gone up in a big way, I do use a lot of secondhand materials like s-cams and trailer axles, cost nothing to get and very little, great video mate, throughly enjoyed watching, cheers
If you want plate with similar properties to 4140, look at P20 mould steel
I loved that this old tony opening
Good Job! As a nube, I am saving this to file as a reference work. Thank you very much for remembering the nubes.
I’ve recently decided to start learning how to lathe. I bought a Sieg C3 mini lathe. This sort of video is extremely helpful (as well as learning tips by simply watching your other videos). I certainly appreciate this sort of content!!
Excellent video.
Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Looking forward to this series...great place to begin. Thank you very much
The advice in this video is pretty good. If you do need stainless steel for your work, you might consider 415/416 free machining stainless. Not as strong or as corrosion resistant as 300 series stainless, but it cuts/taps easily, and a mirror finish is possible for things like machine crank handles.
You pay a premium for smaller cut lengths but if you buy larger amounts to get a lower price you will end up with most of that material sitting on your storage rack for years. In the long run you are better off buying just enough for you project. There are suppliers that specialize in smaller cut lengths and you should seek them out.
Cheers from NC/USA
I appreciate this video so much. I’ve watched so many machining videos and never even crossed my mind the different types of the same alloy can machine differently . Again thank you so much for this amazing video !!❤
I bought some 8620 steel, and it's been a pleasure to work with...
People comparing this to a this old Tony video, less all the BS...excellent information..
Excellent video, thank you for sharing your machining and material knowledge with us. I do enjoy watching and learning from your videos.
This is amazing thank you so much! I’ve been yearning to get into metal machining and although I don’t have direct access to really any machining materials right now, I still have my books and the words of the wise. Please keep this series going, this is the exact guidance I’ve been looking for, and I’m excited to see what you’ll have next for us.
Thanks for using SAE grades when describing materials. When reading Workshop Practice Series books, I resorted to creating a spreadsheet for mapping SAE to BS material grades.
Muy buen video, gracias por compartirlo
You are the successor of This Old Tony and AvE, I swear to the machining gods themselves!
Very nice. I can't wait for more videos in this educational series.
Great informational video, full of information very helpful to me.
Thanks again for sharing.
Keep it up thanks for the information 👍 🙏
I have found a good source for 1045/4140 material if you are not concerned on the specific alloy. I have been using scrap hydraulic cylinder rods. They are all either 1045 or 4140, and you can pick them up at the scrap yard for cheap. The only key is that you need to cut the chrome plating off before you do anything else. Cheap and easy. Go get some scrap cylinders to try.
There's also scrap gun barrels if you don't mind the hole in the middle...
Great video. I don't know how easy it is to come by in your area but I would recommend one additional metal to your list especially if using a small lathe/mill and it is 1144, it's resulferized for easier machining as well as some really good characteristics to it's properties.
1144 what? Is that aluminium, brass, bronze, steel?
@@WhenDoesTheVideoActuallyStart It's a carbon steel. Often called "stressproof" as it's stress relieved during manufacturing so your part doesn't have the tendency to bend during the machining process.
Absolutely FABULOUS content. Thanks very much.
I really appreciate this video mate 👍 a great beginner explanation of materials someone like myself would use, cheers.
Yes very useful. Going to write that list down.
Have made quite a few things but have never used more than mild steel , bronze and stainless.
Without having a clue what their make up was.
Unless I treat most of my creations with a spray on fluid used to keep gun barrels free of corrosion they soon get spotty with rust or electrolysis.
In Taiwan, 4140, 1045, 1018 all costs the same. However 4140 is only available as round bars, hot rolled, annealed. There are alloys like FDAC, P20, etc. that I've yet to try out but if I need pre hard 4140 then I will probably give FDAC and others a try (those are all used for making molds).
Cold rolled has a lot of built-up tension in it so when you machine it at can deform.
Great overview! Interesting to hear that 1214 and 12L14 machine about the same. In the UK I normally get these as EN1A and EN1A leaded. Plain old EN1A is easier to get so I’ll have to try some of it. Regarding copper, if you can get one of the free-machining grades containing tellurium or sulphur, you’ll love it 😊 Way easier than brass, nice chips, great for decorative parts.
Enjoyed this. Keep 'em coming.
Good info for the hobbiest. Possible follow up could be identifying materials that you're not sure of the alloy.
Very interesting.
Great video. Simple and to the point. I have used most all of these. I have not used 12L14. When machining cast iron it is best to cover the ways. I like your coffee pot. 🤣
Great tip!
Love it. Keep 'em coming!
VERY HELP FULL
intersting video! Thanks This Old Artisan Makes!
Great video for us machinist wannabes!
Wish I had a watch this 15 years ago
Brilliant video, thank you
Excellent!
I always find it funny that mold steel has more iron in it than cast iron does. Steel is more iron than "iron" is.
Great vijao! Ie been wondering about these things myself.
Great video ! You have to be careful buying stuff on eBay, I have had a few surprises in the past from a few sellers. Probably just dumpster divers selling what ever they find and proposing to be a metal supplier. I usually reach for 4140 90% of the time , mainly because I know it is strong enough for most jobs I do and I have a pile of it .
A guy at work gave me a pile of 1/2 inch round bar he scabbed out of a steel bin at one of his customers, it didn’t seem to rust so I thought maybe some kind of stainless- except this stuff was like machining chewing gum and broke really easily so it ended up in the scrap bin at my work !
I bookmarked this.
Machining characteristics of different 3D printed plastics might be a good addition to this subject? Today they even come in form stable heat resistant versions. Resin up to 170C and thermal plastic up to 240C if I remember correctly. I'm thinking that could possibly make them suitable for replacing expensive castings for small steam model engines.
Also Delrin and PTFE are used in model steam engines for bearings, and piston rings of various designs. Things like suitable tooling, speeds and lubrication would be of interest.
Though I realize you shouldn't really talk about things without having personal experience. So it comes down to your personal practices.
Great video thank you!
Plastics, Brass and Bronze tend to "chatter" or "gouge". When drilling these materials I have found that it is better to "scour" them. After sharpening, it is best to dress the sharp edge by "blunting" the edge. A 90 degree face is best.
I’ve done that for brass, never heard of doing that for plastic. Cheers
Very helpful. Thanks.
This is like This Old Tony, but metric.
Underrated comment.
Good job, 👍 I hunted for something like me, I started playing with cutting. I would like to see the second episode but devoted only to steel, basics and some of the most important species I know but there are so many types that it's hard to know which for what. If you have such knowledge, divide it because there are a lot of channels on YT in which steel is discussed for a specific use but it would be nice to have such information in one episode.
Dobra robota, na coś takiego polowałem jak ja zaczynałem się bawić z obróbką skrawaniem. Ja chętnie bym obejrzał drugi odcinek ale poświęcony tylko stali, podstawy i kilka najważniejszych gatunków znam ale jest tego tyle rodzajów że ciężko się zorientować która do czego. Jeżeli masz taką wiedzę to się podziel bo jest dużo kanałów na yt w których jest omawiana stal do konkretnego zastosowania ale fajnie by było mieć takie informacje w jednym odcinku.
GREAT INFO, THANKS
Thank you that was great for us and probably less fun for you to make!
copper. i HATE that metal with a passion. exactly for the same reason: it's gummy and likes to snap drills and sticks to my inserts like poop.
4140 and brass, i LOVE those. exactly for the same reason too: it's very easy to get a really good finish with those. and while 4140 is tough to turn and mill, and you can heat treat it to make decent tooling.
for everything else, i use aluminum or mild steels.
Hi Adrian , great topic something really handy to know.
I shop at Edcon Metal Suppliers Milperra
Delrin, UHMW and PTFE have properties I'm interested in. But then I'm into spring powered airguns. I'm pretty interested in low friction plastics for that reason.
Aussie's do seem to like their tea that colour :-)
Excelent
Great vid mate! Who do you recommend as a supplier here in Oz?
As a builder, I hate stainless fasteners with a passion. Stainless is good for one thing and one thing only. It's generally worse for every other property that you want in a steel.
Here in my country there is a metal supplier that sells 1020 and 1045 for the same price
My local places are TERRIBLE for materials, especially since they jacked up their prices 40%. I'm getting everything from ebay now.
I love machining brass, wish it was cheaper so i could make lots of useless stuff with it 😂
Thank you. But I’ve seen videos of people using delron (spelling) as a plastic (type) element used in spacers and such. Why? And for some stupid reason, I would like to see various grades of carbon fiber worked into a part.
Delrin is a Dupont trade name for a family of acetal plastic.
It is used for its lubricity and resistance to creep under load.
It is also not nearly as hygroscopic as something like nylon.
That was well done. Is S12L14 still available? I have not seen it around for some years. Did I miss it, or did you leave out Silver steel which is normally held in stock by engineering suppliers so readily available and can be quite useful at times having a ground finish. Aluminium 2011 is about all I have ever used in aluminium, as 6061 is just too difficult to turn with low powered lathes when you want production quantities. Folks with large lathes don't worry about it, they just turn up the feed, increase the cut and pour on the coolant. A large shop near me, won't have 2011 in the place, whereas I try not to have any 6061 around.
Interesting what we will come up with as a video, when out machines are not working, both of mine are down at the moment too. I think you covered all that was needed and this video should be really useful to folks starting out machining.
Duuuude. I need me some Mr Men coffee mugs.
I can recommend 6082 aluminium over 6060 or 6061. It has pretty much all the benefits of 6061, but is slightly stronger, not as soft and way nicer to machine. The chips still do get rather stringy, but it's nowhere near as susceptible to raise a bur as 6061, especially when turning. Luckily I can get it at the same shop here in germany as 6061 and while it is a bit more expensive, it's not really all that noticeable in my hobby grade quantities.
Neat, never used it but good to know. Although none of my suppliers stock it. Cheers
The chrome content of 4140 is far too low to have any significant effect on resisting corrosion. The primary effect of the chromium is to improve hardenability.
Looks like this young Tony
in my country, hardware store metals (and about anything else actually) is about 5 times more expensive than at a proper supplier and also always of unknown alloy. I've found 10mm bolts that were 12.73 times more expensive in a big hardware store than on amazon
Now I’m curious as to why your machines are disassembled 🤔
Especially both major machines at the same time??
End of year maintenance effectively. Doing a rebuild, changing out bearings whilst I have the time to do it.
Hello ThisYoungTony!
As a migger I like mild steel
Great video, what supplier are you using for your projects? I live in Brisbane and I’m looking for someone who is not asking for a kidney or a leg to just buy a brass round rod, craaazy expensive stuff!
I buy most of my material from Edson steel. They are not the cheapest, nor the most expensive, but they do have the advantage that they cater towards the hobbyist. So they don’t have minimum order quantities for most materials.
This Old Artisan
what is your everyday job? Machinist?
Big ToT vibes here.
Leaded steels like 12L14 should not be welded. Lead fumes are not good for you…
In case folks like me (Canadian) are reading this as well, FYI sulphur tends to make a steel more prone to cold embrittlement, so beware of high-sulphur free machining steels at low temperatures.
As a total beginner with no experience, what exactly do you mean by "more difficult to machine"?
I thought most machining was done through CNC controls? Does this just mean that we'd have to adjust our tools and have them take that little bit longer than with an "easier to machine" material?
Machining difficulty can mean any number of things. Even plastics can be difficult to machine. It doesn't just mean the actual force required to cut the material.
Lots of hobbyists don't have/use cnc machines. Manual stuff is fun. But even on CNC machines you will have to play around with feeds and speeds to get good chips, which might be harder on something considered less machineable.
Some materials gum up and stick to tools, some are prone to work harden, some require special treatment in other ways
Tony, your accent has changed
Man I wonder what I’m doing wrong because the machining I’ve done with brass has been terrible, it always leaves a horrendous finish no matter If I use HSS or carbide, but I’ve had amazing luck with 12L14, all aluminums and most steel but brass just terrible for me at least the ones I’ve tried like 260 or free machining brass but maybe I just am not doing something right
Have you tried using neutral/positive rake tools instead of negative rake ones? I've heard brass hates negative rake
Everyone calling him This Old Tony's successor lmao.
Mayhaps "machine people" end up having a specific archetype personality 🤣🤣
Are you able to name your suppliers? I live in the Melbourne area.
could see if they could order 303
Possibly But I’d probably run into minimum order quantities. Had the same issue a few years back ordering some cast iron billet. Cheers
This old Australian Tony 😆
And today on This Old Artisan…
what about the scrap yard and the realy rusty stuff much more fun
Great information, but I have never seen so many ads on a video like this. It almost made the video unwatchable. Interpreting right in the middle of sentences every 2-3 minutes as you got to each new topic.
I had to continually rewind to before the ad to actually gather the information about what you were talking about.
I’ll have to go and change that, RUclips adds the break points and it tend to go a bit crazy with them
G'day This Old To.... oh
This Old Tony at home be like:
Buying aluminium from Bunnings... Damn isn't the price of it in Australia dear enough from steel shop already, that you want to be doubly ripped off.
This is mainly aimed at the hobbyist that might buy stuff from the hardware store so it’s good info all the same. Plus i can’t do the two hour round trip to the metal supplier all that often, so Bunnings is more convenient. Cheers
@@artisanmakes that's fair enough. I just assumed you lived in a capital city.
Sorry to say, but the first sentence about aluminium is a bit of an unlucky statement. It is not "the best starting material". The best material to start with is always the one that fulfils the needs of what you want to achieve. If you want to just make nonsense parts for practising and look for an easy to cut material, SOME aluminium alloys might well be the material to choose.
But as soon as you want to polish your skills and at the same time make something useful, the function of the part you make has to drive the material to use. And it will always be a tradeoff between price, supply situation, toughness, hardness, machineability, weldability, density, corrosion resistance, looks and coolness factor.
Big disagree on the aluminium. I'd very much rate it as an advanced material that beginners should avoid at all cost. It has so many disadvantegeous properties such that you cant just use it willy-nilly for whatever. You need to think real hard on how to design your part to overcome these disadvantages. The real beginner material is mild steel which is exactly the opposite. Mild steel has decent enough properties sucg that whatever you're trying to achieve is PROBABLY going to work without thinking too much. And the MILD in mild steel makes it easily enough machineable that you'll have no issues on that front just as with aluminium. On top of that, it's also much cheaper and easier to get in bigger dimensions. As far as Germany goes, I can get huge chunks of mild steel for a decent price because it's used everywhere in machine shops around the country. Huge chunks of aluminium, however, are mostly for specialized industry and are thereby hard come by for the private end consumer.
7475
Old Tony?