A few fantastic people have caught an error in the video, which changes my thoughts. The original testing had FSR set to Auto in Cyberpunk 2077 even though I thought I had set it manually to Balanced. This could be why there was a 2 frame increase during the second round of testing (which did have it set to Balanced), and negates that test. So the Horizon test is the only one that was done equally, and showed no difference. After seeing this I'm left with the information that all we saw after applying this particular paste in this fashion was a slight increase in temps and I am now firmly in the camp that it there is no benefit. I plan to do a follow up video testing out a few other TIMs people have mentioned in the comments so key your eyes peeled for that! -Adam
@@JoshuaGKryonaut is bad for bare dies. Temps will be good for a few days, then it'll start to increase until it becomes worse than the original paste. I believe it's due to the pump out effect where the paste is pushed out to the sides because the paste is not viscous enough.
I've done 4 repastes...for science, not personal gain. I've tried tfx, ptm7950, and kryonaut, then back to ptm7950. All 3 gave me similar results. I settled on using the ptm7950 for longevity. My 2 cents...just stick with the stock compound Asus uses and use manual mode with a custom fan curve. In all 4 My unit reaches 95c plugged in on the turbo preset using the stock charger. My unit does sustain 43w boost for a full 2 or so minutes, which means that the Z1 X chip is doing what its supposed to do. In manual mode when running a custom fan curve, the temps did come down which is a good sign the heatsink is making proper contact. My reasoning for using manual mode over turbo is protecting the sd card reader from overheating with better cooling. With that being said, please be careful taking anything apart.
After the rear cover is removed you have to plug it in to turn it back on. I used MX-6 on mine, and seen 2-6c lower temps depending on the wattage settings.
You are correct but you are all over the place in your description. It is not an ic hc pad or phase change pad and you do not repaste once with it. The KryoSheet is a graphene thermal pad, nothing more, nothing less. It is used as a replacement for any thermal paste application. It is highly conductive. SMDs around the die should be protected by a conformal coating (TG Shield). It is a use and forget product. It never dries out or breaks down over time. It can only be used one time. I used KryoSheets as a TIM in a delidded CPU, its cooler and the GPU die. The system boost higher than paste and I never have to reapply it, unless I upgrade something.
PTM 7950 phase change pad will work just fine, as it has the same conductivity as high end thermal paste and has guaranteed zero degradation for at least 5 years
@@BansheeBunny I'm using TG carbonaut and ic diamond High compression (HC) pad with insulation tapes covering the SMDs of CPU and GPU in my notebook. Haven't tried kryosheet yet since the current ones are performing very well and it's been 4 yrs and temps are the same.
I changed to Kryosheet and it made quite a difference and it's reusable and theoretically will last forever so it's perfect for a handheld. I watch videos of other people's devices online and see their device up into 85+ in sustained 30w turbo mode and my ally hovers around 75-77c typically in sustained 30w turbo mode. Obviously ambient likely has something to do with that but even from fast and loose testing kryosheet led to lower temps and lower fan speeds in my similar ambient.
13:17 Everytime you took out the battery out just before you turn it back on you always have to plug it in and wait at least 5 - 10 mins to be more safe that’s what the creator of this device has advice
Why did you run the test on 25w setting? I mean, it would be much easier to spot a difference at charged turbo mode, right? Or is everything just throttles at turbo anyway?
The not starting part a the begining got me too when I opened mine. Aparently if you disconnected the battery and reconnected it in order to start it, it has to be also connected to the charger!
I did shave 12C off my 2TB Sabrent 2230 SSD Drive Temp with a heatsink off Amazon and left the black covering sticker cover off. Went from 67C under crystal mark load to 55C Monitored using HWinfo. Not monitored APU temps as I thought it would be unaffected but Fans don't ramp up nearly as much as before. The Copper SSD heatsink at first only cooled it by 2C and actually fell off inside after a few mins as it's badly designed to just stick to the Thermal pad / phase change pad so I had to devise a plan to secure it tight to the SSD and it was a massive difference! Pretty sure it's made a massive difference to the APU as Playing Planet of Lana in Turbo mode the fans were on full and kicking out lots of heat, I run it now on Turbo and it's cool and fans barley spinning.
I changed mine out to Kryosheet graphene pad (not graphite). In 2077, same settings as video, i get 76c at 30w. avg fps 39.80. WIth the 25w power, default fan profiles, same settings, 67c with 38.45avg fps.
I would repaste again and go with something thinner and tin both sides or do the dot method. The temps should be lower overall. Maybe run a test with the plugged in boost mode to see your clocks and TPD. I would also test a low wattage to see how low the temps stay at the nominal rate. It may be that higher TDP tests are a waste of time for any handheld as the cooler will never keep up at 30watts.
@pcworld I did read it in the asus document on their page pre-release, although i can't find it now and also Hurd it from the tec reviewer (the phawx) he is a moble console reviewer. Hoped to see the console plugged in when tested it has 4 power limits the plugged in one the turbo watt goes up to 42watt, which would make the most heat/ worst case. I have one myself, love it you just have to watch out for the sd card slot overheating and frying it self. Interesting note there is a perfect amount of space to place a copper shim between the heat sink and sd spot. Additionally, check your thermal pads on the right-hand side the thermal pad was half touching since the fan has only 2 mounting points it provided un even pressure so I repad them with thermal right pads 1mm for the small one and 3mm for the large one.
@@jstathellis great notes! I'm thinking of doing a follow up to this for sure based off all the feedback I've gotten in the comments. Thanks for you help. -Adam
Burn in procedure / laptop / cpu paste settle first to cpu burner then when cpu thermals level out to on paper / then gpu burn in render software / / / CPU first
Love that you left in the blooper and made fun of yourselves. Clearly the Ally has a mechanism that requires you to plug in the power brick to start the device after you've previously opened the case.
Cooling the hard drive and putting thermal pads on the rams might also have a possetive effect. Haven't tried yet, but yeah probably should be a good thing.
I wish they'd use graphene pads on these handhelds, with the heat cycles these things go through pump-out and dry-out is an actual risk, i'd rather give up 5% performance now, so i dont lose 25% in the future
That is likely why they use phase change paste from the factory. I changed to Kryosheet (a graphene pad) and it was actually a rather significant improvement, not a downgrade. So not only do you get the benefits of the pad (reusable, lasts forever etc) not it's actually better performance too. I'm genuinely impressed with TGs new kryosheet.
@@LayerZeroDesign Your improvement is likely due to them using cheap thermal paste, generally, a graphene pad does reduce performance over high end thermal paste until that high end thermal paste either dries out/pump out, or if the heat spreader isnt doing its job though i hear there are some new graphene pads that pass heat through the Z axis instead of the X/Y axis whouch should be faster Current thermal pads just spread the heat quickly, but dont pass through to the heat sink any more quickly than thermal paste
It makes sense. With the added thermal capacity the AMD chip is boosting higher, hence the increased performance (2fps may not seem like a lot but on 30fps thats 7%) It boosting higher results in higher temps. It's how the gen 4 chips work as well. More thermal dissipation capacity allows the chip to boost higher clocks at the same or higher temps.
Two extra frames. And it runs hotter than before. I doubt the re-paste did anything. A two frame increase or decrease could just be program running in the background or just normal variation. 6 attempts isn’t enough to rule out variation. Also 32 fps vs 30 fps is not even distinguishable in actual game play. I guess some people need to feel like they did something to make it “better”. But manufacturers actually do a lot of testing. Watch LInus in LTT episode where he tours the Framework manufacturing plant in Taipei. The amount of quality control in the factory is epic. Believe it or not but Framework is following industry standards. This means that ASUS is also doing a lot of quality checks on their products. Repasting doesn’t do anything but boost one’s own ego. 😂
@@mikeallensonntag besides Liquid Metal that possibly short circuits if you use to much, I use artic silver 5 that’s real sticky which helps long term since most paste tend to drip with gravity so unfortunately it’s not all the same.
possible yes, recommended NOPE. would be more useful to figure a way to put a bigger heat sink on it. thicker copper, bigger heat pipes, maybe even a home made radiator on the heat pipe
All that work to take everything apart and change the thermal paste only to get minimal results just seems to be a giant pain in the ass to me. But that’s just my opinion. Nothing more and nothing less.
@@imnotusingmyrealname4566 "Pump out" is due to thermal expansion and cooling, and the semi-liquid nature of the pastes. They can expand and move outside the contact plate area during high heat load, but when it cools, the paste is firmer and doesn't necessarily move back into place. So you will get less paste contact over time and potentially have what little is still place dry out faster due to this effect.
I would not have taken the fan headers out. I would have just gently flipped it over onto the battery while I repasted the APU. I have some of that thermal paste I bought for my steamdeck and I dropped like 7 or 8 degrees celcius. So depending on your results I may use some on My new ROG seens I am opening it up tomorrow anyway to put in a cloned 2 terabyte drive. Had it a couple days but too lazy and it's easier to just game on my PC if said game is not on my ROG Ally lol.
good god man.. you need to make the layer thin as possible.. the thicker the layer the more insulating it does .. so use a razor blade and create a think layer over the whole cpu core die .. with the blade.. man.
the cyberpunk benchmark before the thermal paste was with FSR auto ( yes i know u set it up to balance but it didn't appley, u can see that at the end of the test) that is way the horizon zero dawn was the same.
That’s because it’s uses a phase changing TIM instead of normal thermal paste. Being “dried” is completely normal as it turns into a liquid when it get above 50-55C.
Let me thank you for the test. It is really interesting and I have never found any channel have tested it before. May I ask you that do you have a plan to try again with liquid metal? I think it may show the difference this time, and I still wonder that usually if ASUS uses the name of ROG, they are typically using liquid metal, but not with ROG. why not?
I don't plan on trying liquid metal (I'll definitely fuck it up), but there are a couple other TIMs I can test. Got some recommendations from the comments and our Discord. -Adam
Would of loved to see high end paste the XOC guys use. I love KPX or grizzly kryonaut extreme. That's All I use on my pc's and love it. Doesn't dry out and has the highest temp drops if there is any to be had.
They have used the worse paste ever. Mine came dry. I put thermal grizzly and it changed the whole story. No more thermal throttling on manual fan curve
Results screen for the initial Cyberpunk run shows that FSR2 is Auto, repaste run is Balanced. Auto is increasing the res over Balanced on average to match framerate target (and not exceed, as Balanced does). The only valid test is Horizon, which shows no difference whatsoever.
"Youre suppose to use a blob and let the heat sink spread it out because you can get air pockets spreading it your self" Yeah, no. That is a lie that you were told and thermal paste comes with a spread paddle. Also, try that on a GPU and watch it die. Buildzoid killed and RX 480 doing that.
@@Everett-xe3eg you just put it on there. its not rocket science. the amount means nothing, you just need to use the right kind. the stuff he used here was way too thick, and maybe original comment was right about stock being good, but usually they use the cheapest crap they can get away with
Microsoft need to give us the option to shut down the background, while gaming. Asus need to give us better performance 60fps next update, while killing bad bugs. And devs need to update their games to support Asus rog ally.
Gordon taught you how to repaste CPUs well, but the SOC cooler on the Ally is something entirely different. The average CPU cooler applies enough mounting pressure to overcome an over application of highly viscous thermal compound. The mounting tabs on the Ally do not offer enough pressure to push out excessive paste. Apply Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut or noctua NT-H2 and use half as much as seen here. To make sure that it is coated evenly, spread it out with your finger tip in the corner of a sandwich bag.
@@pcworld Don't jump the shark by using paste designed for LN2 (Kryonaut or KPx). They contain silicon to prevent the paste from cracking at sub-zero temperatures and are only used for a handful of benchmark runs. With normal use, the thermal changes (cold to hot to cold) over time (a few months), will pump these types of paste out. Edit: I would only expect to see another 2-4 FPS for your effort.
@@BansheeBunny i used kryonaut before and it doesnt pump out, it just seems to degrade. takes about 6 months to a year. mx5 is the most stable ive used so now i have some mx6 for the next build i do
Short story: unless you got a lemon from the factory, don't repaste as asus got this right. Any gains purported by individuals here is straight copium.
It's normal that you need to put in the USB charger before it powers on again once you have unplugged the battery. And you even say: i did not unplug anything.... what a joke.
there is ZERO gains to replacing the pad in this....its already the BEST product money can buy ASIDES from liquid metal but even then you only get 2-3 more degrease cooler...not worth the cost IMO
A few fantastic people have caught an error in the video, which changes my thoughts. The original testing had FSR set to Auto in Cyberpunk 2077 even though I thought I had set it manually to Balanced. This could be why there was a 2 frame increase during the second round of testing (which did have it set to Balanced), and negates that test. So the Horizon test is the only one that was done equally, and showed no difference. After seeing this I'm left with the information that all we saw after applying this particular paste in this fashion was a slight increase in temps and I am now firmly in the camp that it there is no benefit. I plan to do a follow up video testing out a few other TIMs people have mentioned in the comments so key your eyes peeled for that!
-Adam
Try repasting it again with Thermal Grizzly's Kryonaut ❤🤟
@@JoshuaGKryonaut is bad for bare dies. Temps will be good for a few days, then it'll start to increase until it becomes worse than the original paste. I believe it's due to the pump out effect where the paste is pushed out to the sides because the paste is not viscous enough.
Increase in temps, or improvement in temps?
@@LeesChannel Increasement
I've done 4 repastes...for science, not personal gain. I've tried tfx, ptm7950, and kryonaut, then back to ptm7950. All 3 gave me similar results. I settled on using the ptm7950 for longevity. My 2 cents...just stick with the stock compound Asus uses and use manual mode with a custom fan curve. In all 4 My unit reaches 95c plugged in on the turbo preset using the stock charger. My unit does sustain 43w boost for a full 2 or so minutes, which means that the Z1 X chip is doing what its supposed to do. In manual mode when running a custom fan curve, the temps did come down which is a good sign the heatsink is making proper contact. My reasoning for using manual mode over turbo is protecting the sd card reader from overheating with better cooling. With that being said, please be careful taking anything apart.
Also 95c with the PTM 7950?
I think Rog ally uses a PTM 7950 so using any other thermal paste will just make it worst
Exactly this.
I used ptm7950 on my steam deck & the temp never goes above 80c no matter how hard i push it
LOL false
@@TaiZidek exactly not this.
After the rear cover is removed you have to plug it in to turn it back on. I used MX-6 on mine, and seen 2-6c lower temps depending on the wattage settings.
I believe the kryosheet or ic hc pad or phase change pad should be perfect since you can repaste once and not worry about degradation.
You are correct but you are all over the place in your description. It is not an ic hc pad or phase change pad and you do not repaste once with it. The KryoSheet is a graphene thermal pad, nothing more, nothing less.
It is used as a replacement for any thermal paste application.
It is highly conductive. SMDs around the die should be protected by a conformal coating (TG Shield).
It is a use and forget product. It never dries out or breaks down over time.
It can only be used one time.
I used KryoSheets as a TIM in a delidded CPU, its cooler and the GPU die. The system boost higher than paste and I never have to reapply it, unless I upgrade something.
PTM 7950 phase change pad will work just fine, as it has the same conductivity as high end thermal paste and has guaranteed zero degradation for at least 5 years
@@sihamhamda47 KryoSheets thermal conductivity is much higher than paste and will not degrade over any length of time.
@@BansheeBunny I'm using TG carbonaut and ic diamond High compression (HC) pad with insulation tapes covering the SMDs of CPU and GPU in my notebook. Haven't tried kryosheet yet since the current ones are performing very well and it's been 4 yrs and temps are the same.
@@sihamhamda47 with legion i don't repaste since i simply can't match the temps of ptm7950 pad.
I changed to Kryosheet and it made quite a difference and it's reusable and theoretically will last forever so it's perfect for a handheld. I watch videos of other people's devices online and see their device up into 85+ in sustained 30w turbo mode and my ally hovers around 75-77c typically in sustained 30w turbo mode. Obviously ambient likely has something to do with that but even from fast and loose testing kryosheet led to lower temps and lower fan speeds in my similar ambient.
What size sheet did you get?
Hmm so mine has sth wrong - I've got 90-95C at sustained 20W and 100% fan speed. I need to use max 17W to get it below 90C.
A bigger vapor chaimber would be nice. At least it gives you a reason to open up the case when it is new
I think he should of used thermal grizzly kryonaut or liquid metal since it was used in the Rog Flow Z13
I thought you would know about the charger being needed if the battery had been disconnected.
"PC World" 😂
My guess is there was a Hotspot on the core causing thermal throttling and the re-paste helped
" SpiderPunk " lmao ! i cant ... 🤣😂 The PANIk was real 😆
13:17 Everytime you took out the battery out just before you turn it back on you always have to plug it in and wait at least 5 - 10 mins to be more safe that’s what the creator of this device has advice
Every time you remove the back plate you have to plug it in to power cable for it to turn on.
Why did you run the test on 25w setting? I mean, it would be much easier to spot a difference at charged turbo mode, right? Or is everything just throttles at turbo anyway?
For the most significant result for most people. It's a handheld.
But I do somewhat agree.
Yeah, I thought about that after the fact. Probably going to do a follow up to this and use a couple different kinds of paste.
-Adam
Do the benchmark with 30W turbo mode. (Plugged in to power)
Right
The not starting part a the begining got me too when I opened mine. Aparently if you disconnected the battery and reconnected it in order to start it, it has to be also connected to the charger!
3 Degrees from just changing the paste isn't insignificant
Nah that's probably several decibels too. I will do this.
it was hotter after the "thermal paste upgrade"... not 3 degrees cooler.
@@gametime4316 please send me address
anime address
@@Gerdeep ?
I did shave 12C off my 2TB Sabrent 2230 SSD Drive Temp with a heatsink off Amazon and left the black covering sticker cover off. Went from 67C under crystal mark load to 55C Monitored using HWinfo.
Not monitored APU temps as I thought it would be unaffected but Fans don't ramp up nearly as much as before. The Copper SSD heatsink at first only cooled it by 2C and actually fell off inside after a few mins as it's badly designed to just stick to the Thermal pad / phase change pad so I had to devise a plan to secure it tight to the SSD and it was a massive difference! Pretty sure it's made a massive difference to the APU as Playing Planet of Lana in Turbo mode the fans were on full and kicking out lots of heat, I run it now on Turbo and it's cool and fans barley spinning.
It's really sad that APU die doesn't have any markings on it 😢
I always feel inadequate when I'm pulling things like that apart and applying TIM. I wouldn't be hired for a factory line worker either
If you unplugged the battery you need to plug it back into power until the light turns orange or it wont turn back on
I changed mine out to Kryosheet graphene pad (not graphite). In 2077, same settings as video, i get 76c at 30w. avg fps 39.80. WIth the 25w power, default fan profiles, same settings, 67c with 38.45avg fps.
Which size did you use?
You should know that when you disconect the baterry you got to put it in the cherge to free boot
Every time you disconnect the battery, it required you plug into power before it will power back on.
You have to plug it unto ac the first time after unplugging the battery
Use a Phase Change TIM like PTM 7950 or the way cheaper but equally effective Laird Tpcm 7125.
I would repaste again and go with something thinner and tin both sides or do the dot method. The temps should be lower overall. Maybe run a test with the plugged in boost mode to see your clocks and TPD. I would also test a low wattage to see how low the temps stay at the nominal rate. It may be that higher TDP tests are a waste of time for any handheld as the cooler will never keep up at 30watts.
Other tests videos have shown dot method isn't the superior method. As long as your paste isn't conductive it doesn't matter how much squishes out.
"Smells like Gaming" Not only did I CATCH that... but I INSTINCTIVELY AGREED... The smell of brand new electronics firing up? nothing like it!
My people.
-Adam
Wrong paste asus uses ptm 7940 which is phase change supposed to be the best paste besides liquid metal.
I didn't know that, where is this documented?
-Adam
@pcworld I did read it in the asus document on their page pre-release, although i can't find it now and also Hurd it from the tec reviewer (the phawx) he is a moble console reviewer. Hoped to see the console plugged in when tested it has 4 power limits the plugged in one the turbo watt goes up to 42watt, which would make the most heat/ worst case. I have one myself, love it you just have to watch out for the sd card slot overheating and frying it self. Interesting note there is a perfect amount of space to place a copper shim between the heat sink and sd spot. Additionally, check your thermal pads on the right-hand side the thermal pad was half touching since the fan has only 2 mounting points it provided un even pressure so I repad them with thermal right pads 1mm for the small one and 3mm for the large one.
@@jstathellis great notes! I'm thinking of doing a follow up to this for sure based off all the feedback I've gotten in the comments. Thanks for you help.
-Adam
What about adding a phone cooling block?
when j first disassembled my ally i was so scared when it didn't turn on. I was so relieved when I realized I just had to plug it In
I am eventually going to Nickle plate the heatsink and use liquid metal on this sucker but that is gonna be a little ways down the road.
It's been a little ways, have you done this?
you didnt talk about the fan noise before and after repasting !
Gotta plug the power in to start the rog back up, I had the same scare 😅
Burn in procedure / laptop / cpu paste settle first to cpu burner then when cpu thermals level out to on paper / then gpu burn in render software / / / CPU first
Temps always going to be higher, you have to let thermal paste heat and cool multiple times before it normalizes
10/10 broscience right here folks
lol, what?
the volume button on my ally stopped clicking. Is there any easy way to fix it?
Love that you left in the blooper and made fun of yourselves. Clearly the Ally has a mechanism that requires you to plug in the power brick to start the device after you've previously opened the case.
It's easy to make fun of myself, I tend to screw up a lot 😅
-Adam
Cooling the hard drive and putting thermal pads on the rams might also have a possetive effect. Haven't tried yet, but yeah probably should be a good thing.
It's running on battery. Doesn't that lock fps to 30 by default? Plugging in mine boosts fps.
I wish they'd use graphene pads on these handhelds, with the heat cycles these things go through pump-out and dry-out is an actual risk, i'd rather give up 5% performance now, so i dont lose 25% in the future
That is likely why they use phase change paste from the factory. I changed to Kryosheet (a graphene pad) and it was actually a rather significant improvement, not a downgrade. So not only do you get the benefits of the pad (reusable, lasts forever etc) not it's actually better performance too. I'm genuinely impressed with TGs new kryosheet.
@@LayerZeroDesign Your improvement is likely due to them using cheap thermal paste, generally, a graphene pad does reduce performance over high end thermal paste until that high end thermal paste either dries out/pump out, or if the heat spreader isnt doing its job
though i hear there are some new graphene pads that pass heat through the Z axis instead of the X/Y axis whouch should be faster
Current thermal pads just spread the heat quickly, but dont pass through to the heat sink any more quickly than thermal paste
I know if u unplug Ur batteries cable u put plug in back again than u must use power brake to on Ur ally again
It makes sense. With the added thermal capacity the AMD chip is boosting higher, hence the increased performance (2fps may not seem like a lot but on 30fps thats 7%) It boosting higher results in higher temps. It's how the gen 4 chips work as well. More thermal dissipation capacity allows the chip to boost higher clocks at the same or higher temps.
You should try to integrate Frore Systems' solid state cooling solution instead of the fan assembly
Didn't monitor fan speed or clocks. Missing 3/4 of the story here.
Two extra frames. And it runs hotter than before. I doubt the re-paste did anything. A two frame increase or decrease could just be program running in the background or just normal variation. 6 attempts isn’t enough to rule out variation. Also 32 fps vs 30 fps is not even distinguishable in actual game play.
I guess some people need to feel like they did something to make it “better”. But manufacturers actually do a lot of testing. Watch LInus in LTT episode where he tours the Framework manufacturing plant in Taipei. The amount of quality control in the factory is epic. Believe it or not but Framework is following industry standards. This means that ASUS is also doing a lot of quality checks on their products. Repasting doesn’t do anything but boost one’s own ego. 😂
Only thing that would be worth trying is liquid metal paste. All other pastes are pretty much on par with each other.
@@mikeallensonntag besides Liquid Metal that possibly short circuits if you use to much, I use artic silver 5 that’s real sticky which helps long term since most paste tend to drip with gravity so unfortunately it’s not all the same.
So much testing and they couldn't see the SD card placement was horrible.
used way too much paste. what a mess
OK, I really need to know. Is liquid metal possible for a hand-held console with all the moving around and possible dropping?
Our friends at UFD Tech did a good video of putting liquid metal on a Steam Deck: ruclips.net/video/RqCYoEvE5xU/видео.html
-Adam
possible yes, recommended NOPE. would be more useful to figure a way to put a bigger heat sink on it. thicker copper, bigger heat pipes, maybe even a home made radiator on the heat pipe
what are the temps at 60FPS or even maxed? Im guessing much higher
All that work to take everything apart and change the thermal paste only to get minimal results just seems to be a giant pain in the ass to me. But that’s just my opinion. Nothing more and nothing less.
Clean work❤
Lets be honest you royally screwed that job up bud. You got worse temps and still thought it was a win?
Maybe try Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme and then Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Extreme.
Kryonaut isn't really suitable here because the mounting pressure is low and it will pump out. Would be interesting to see LM though.
@@xomm Is Kryonaut unique among thermal pastes in this aspect?
KP Blue and Kryonaut are both awesome pastes, but pump out quicker. Adam, think long and hard before going liquid metal. LOL
@@vcjester what does pumping out mean?
@@imnotusingmyrealname4566 "Pump out" is due to thermal expansion and cooling, and the semi-liquid nature of the pastes. They can expand and move outside the contact plate area during high heat load, but when it cools, the paste is firmer and doesn't necessarily move back into place. So you will get less paste contact over time and potentially have what little is still place dry out faster due to this effect.
I would not have taken the fan headers out. I would have just gently flipped it over onto the battery while I repasted the APU. I have some of that thermal paste I bought for my steamdeck and I dropped like 7 or 8 degrees celcius. So depending on your results I may use some on My new ROG seens I am opening it up tomorrow anyway to put in a cloned 2 terabyte drive. Had it a couple days but too lazy and it's easier to just game on my PC if said game is not on my ROG Ally lol.
set the fans to manual fan curve....
I wonder if liquid metal would have any improvement like in the g15/17 laptops
I get 95-96c on my g15 the liquid metal feels more like a gimmick lol
good god man.. you need to make the layer thin as possible.. the thicker the layer the more insulating it does .. so use a razor blade and create a think layer over the whole cpu core die .. with the blade.. man.
the cyberpunk benchmark before the thermal paste was with FSR auto ( yes i know u set it up to balance but it didn't appley, u can see that at the end of the test)
that is way the horizon zero dawn was the same.
RE - Paste job... "You're a butcher, 'Harry!"
Upgraded mine as soon as I got it. The paste that was on it was dried as hell.
That’s because it’s uses a phase changing TIM instead of normal thermal paste. Being “dried” is completely normal as it turns into a liquid when it get above 50-55C.
I'm assuming these guys have never applied thermal paste before. This is like comedy with the funny bit taken out!
Why is this test not done plugged in? It makes no sense.
try kingpin thermal paste best temp drop thermal paste before liquid metal
Let me thank you for the test. It is really interesting and I have never found any channel have tested it before.
May I ask you that do you have a plan to try again with liquid metal?
I think it may show the difference this time, and I still wonder that usually if ASUS uses the name of ROG, they are typically using liquid metal, but not with ROG. why not?
I don't plan on trying liquid metal (I'll definitely fuck it up), but there are a couple other TIMs I can test. Got some recommendations from the comments and our Discord.
-Adam
@@pcworld can punish yourself and do a full set of tests, MX6, kryonaut, everything.
Would of loved to see high end paste the XOC guys use. I love KPX or grizzly kryonaut extreme. That's All I use on my pc's and love it. Doesn't dry out and has the highest temp drops if there is any to be had.
Plz test a ally microsd temp and speed with raspberry pi microsdcard extender bevor and after
needs more testing.
Which Thermal Paste will be best to PC CPU?
I have Honeywell ptm 7 series. Gonna see what that does
liquid metal would be the all time test for enthusiests
Seems well designed. Putting the soc far away from where your hands are is a good idea. Repasting and accessing the SSD seems pretty easy.
thinking the same if you're replacing the SSD - and at 512GB seem very necessary - might as well repaste
Liquid metal might be better?
They have used the worse paste ever. Mine came dry. I put thermal grizzly and it changed the whole story. No more thermal throttling on manual fan curve
It gets on my nerves when people don’t mess with the fan curve
There is a sensor inside that doesn't allow you to turn it on if you remove the back cover. 😅
It's actually to do with the battery cable being removed. Don't spread disinformation
Results screen for the initial Cyberpunk run shows that FSR2 is Auto, repaste run is Balanced. Auto is increasing the res over Balanced on average to match framerate target (and not exceed, as Balanced does).
The only valid test is Horizon, which shows no difference whatsoever.
Oh shit, nice catch! Welp, that explains the difference....
-Adam
Same test with liquid metal?!
Seems like these have a lot of problems. Hope they get it all sorted out.
Youre suppose to use a blob and let the heat sink spread it out because you can get air pockets spreading it your self
"Youre suppose to use a blob and let the heat sink spread it out because you can get air pockets spreading it your self"
Yeah, no. That is a lie that you were told and thermal paste comes with a spread paddle. Also, try that on a GPU and watch it die. Buildzoid killed and RX 480 doing that.
No time to cure? :P
This was such a dumb thing to do....no need and the stock thermal paste is actually very good.
That thermal paste application was painful to watch, and so amateurish. Then again, this is PCWorld.
They whole point of doing this is to see if the thermal paste is good or not.
@@ramihaidafy - Good, I wasn't the only person who had the same thought.
@@TonkarzOfSolSystem Turns out major manufacturers of consumer electronics devices know how to apply thermal paste properly.
@@Everett-xe3eg you just put it on there. its not rocket science. the amount means nothing, you just need to use the right kind. the stuff he used here was way too thick, and maybe original comment was right about stock being good, but usually they use the cheapest crap they can get away with
Even on same dye chips
I wouldn't take that sucker apart unless I really had to or it was a few years old and needed a fix 😶
It was very easy!
-Adam
I bout my steam deck and ordered the back case and new name before I got it. I literally never once booted it with the original nvme.
this looks easier than some laptops ive done
Microsoft need to give us the option to shut down the background, while gaming.
Asus need to give us better performance 60fps next update, while killing bad bugs.
And devs need to update their games to support Asus rog ally.
Alright. Now do Water cooling
Gordon taught you how to repaste CPUs well, but the SOC cooler on the Ally is something entirely different. The average CPU cooler applies enough mounting pressure to overcome an over application of highly viscous thermal compound. The mounting tabs on the Ally do not offer enough pressure to push out excessive paste.
Apply Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut or noctua NT-H2 and use half as much as seen here. To make sure that it is coated evenly, spread it out with your finger tip in the corner of a sandwich bag.
Thank you for this explanation, I'll definitely do a follow up!
-Adam
@@pcworld Don't jump the shark by using paste designed for LN2 (Kryonaut or KPx). They contain silicon to prevent the paste from cracking at sub-zero temperatures and are only used for a handful of benchmark runs. With normal use, the thermal changes (cold to hot to cold) over time (a few months), will pump these types of paste out.
Edit: I would only expect to see another 2-4 FPS for your effort.
@@BansheeBunny i used kryonaut before and it doesnt pump out, it just seems to degrade. takes about 6 months to a year. mx5 is the most stable ive used so now i have some mx6 for the next build i do
Short story: unless you got a lemon from the factory, don't repaste as asus got this right. Any gains purported by individuals here is straight copium.
Not after a bios update
bro that thermal paste its old
If you try gpu first you will bounce both chips to a anger point of not quit working
It's normal that you need to put in the USB charger before it powers on again once you have unplugged the battery. And you even say: i did not unplug anything.... what a joke.
plug charger!
Pretty sure that wasn't kind of a win. Good rest though. 🙂
i dont think the paste is similar to the paste that was original
there is ZERO gains to replacing the pad in this....its already the BEST product money can buy ASIDES from liquid metal but even then you only get 2-3 more degrease cooler...not worth the cost IMO
Щас бы не знать что первый запуск всегда с зарядкой у элай...
Why do you install steam in Windows that the client eats 20% cpu cycles close steam and launch the game from the exe launch 😂
"Smooth 30". Blasphemy. ;)
I expected liquid metal.
BEST WAY TO APPLY THE PASTE IS AN OLD CREDIT CARD OR GIFT CARD