Trans & Clutch 3 - Fork Tech, Mounts & Service Parts
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- This video details the things you should inspect when you have the transmission out. All part numbers listed in the video are for a '95 AWD unless otherwise noted. I talk more in this video than all of my other videos combined. It's truly a departure from my normal format, but that's been happening a lot lately. I cover a lot of ground. Try to keep up. :)
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Bought a 92 Laser where the guy adjusted the master cylinder IN so far that the throw out bearing races welded. Everything that didn't weld just fell off, disintegrated, or was unrecognizable. The fingers on the clutch fork were about 3/4-worn away. The fingers on the pressure plate were gross.
once u get that bad boy back in ur car if your looking for video ideas, how bout a clutch pedal adjustment tech vid :D ive done sum research but it wld be interesting to see somone do it. ive heard its critical to get the master cyl.bleeder valve/rod adjusted right under the dash
glad to see you ditched the 6-puck. nice. i feel dejavu after watching this. lol
All I can say is... Great job on putting these videos together... Very cool info and very descriptive information showed!
If you allow me to throw a couple of suggestions for future videos they would be:
- Differences between Evo III tranny and DSM AWD tranny
- Clutch adjustment using an aftermarket Pressure Plate and disc, like a HD Pressure Plate with a Kevlar Disc...
Keep up the good work!
Man, these videos are really informative! I don't even own a DSM anymore but I'm really enjoying learning from your videos.
Even though alot of this looks very familiar, With all the parts accumulated for my rebuild. Wish you weren't a DSM guy. Lol I have so many questions for when I start. albeit though I love these vid's, very informative. Cant wait to get my sleeved h22 short block in with forged internals. Going NA I have gathered everything along with OEM seals clutches lightened flys, to cams. Everything! So watching these vids is pretty god sent. When I look up anything honda its just them at the dyno running numbers. Thank you for your time and commitment to share. I plan on using your P&P techniques on my head, although it will be a very mild Stage 0-1.
wooooooow tht the sound my car makes. this video is very helpful. my thow out bering is really bad and loud. can you change tht without takin the hole thing apart?
This is awesome
Interesting note: I had a axle seal that was leaking, after replacing it, it continued to leak. The problem was tracked down to that transmission breather which had become old and hardened to the point that it did not allow the excess pressure out of the gearbox causing the oil to be pushed out of the driver side axle seal. Once the breather was replaced the leak went away. This breather can be commonly overlooked.
i watch every video you make. i learn ALOOOTT from your videos!!! :D thank you
sweet. Just got my trans in today (from up in Hazeltown, PA took me 4 hours of driving lol) and a TOB exploded on it so there is a ton of damaged stuff (clutch fork, housing retainer, and the Pivot ball is really chipped up) So thanks! Just now ordering that stuff to replace!
would it be safe to assume that the part #'s for the Shift fork, Pivot ball, jesus clip and the housing retainer are the same for a FWD and AWD?
What type of grease do you use for the trans stuff? like the TOB sleeve and the input/output shaft during assembly?
but you cant change the plastic pivot ball on the 2g eclipse 420a right cuz i cant find it
So this would not apply for a talon? not sure If i understood that..
Jafro! How big Is your washer under the pivot ball?
I replaced my master and slave, tried the extended slave rod and also tried bleeding the Hydraulics with a one way check valve and I still can't disengage the clutch.
I'm guessing my flywheel step may be off but if it isn't then is shimming the pivot ball the way to go? I have act mb1-xtss clutch on 3g eclipse
I here a winning under heavy loads in my 1984 ford ranger, Could it be the throw out barring? The clutch has been replaced within the last 3000 miles.
Is it possible to replace the "Clutch Housing Retainer" on a 1993 1G AWD transmission? my OEM throw out bearing went and the bearing rubbed on that aluminum shaft and destroyed it... its the only thing thats holding me back on driving it... it looks like its one solid piece on the bellhousing so i dont know if its replaceable or if a whole new bellhousing is on the parts list now.
Thanks man, hopefully this is the source of my grinding problem!
good job
Really good set of three videos buddy, cheers.
I think there's 9 of these... ;) Welcome aboard!
i have a question i have a 2g spyder gs with a 4g64 to make a swap of the 4g63 6bolt i need to change all electonic stuff or only the ecu??
Great job! Keep up the good work.
couple questions, would I be good reusing a fork?(would like to say 60$) and I have a 2g trans that I am going to use in a 1g so would I need a 1g fork or 2g fork or are they the same? also on your next video with all the hardware, can i take those measurement and just pick up hardware store stuff or use OEM, I was told that hardware store stuff is actually a stronger grade
very nicely done, enjoy these vids, so informative!
"You run out of hole..." but there is only one hole.
its not called a throwout Bering because you throw it out.. its called that because it throws out force and friction.... from the fork and disc and pressure plate and takes the thrown out force upon it self
'twas a joke. Anyone who doesn't replace it whenever they're this deep in there is the punchline.
it was fucked because i had a s 10 this week and pilot bering was frozen on out put shaft and had to remove every bolt on pressure plate and them use a porta power to push it out--a rwd manual trans took 5 freaking days and he cried because i charged him 600...what a nightmare!!!!!! be well bro--yes i replaced the t.o. Bering..lol
Jafro, what type of grease is best for the TOB and the Pivot ball?
also, is it always necessary to drain the trans fluid? It was literally just changed, but now I am wanting to drop it to replace a faulty TOB. Thanks, You are the man!
Thank you Jafro , is there anything you dont know?
My trans job went well, thanks to your vids, pivot hole was just ok,. I will be driving the Mitsu tomorrow ( it has A/C, Palm Springs CA, 110F plus) thinking "thanks Jafro"
exactly what I needed, plus my question at 9:00.
I shimmed it, without knowing I needed it, so when I put it in
I found it was just ahead of the middle of tho hole with the FORK in it.
Now my question: the rod in the slave cylinder always pushes against the fork,
so the TOB is always sitting against the pressure plate fingers. Is that normal?
"The hole with the fork in it!" like "the hole with the rod in it"
Great videos, learning a lot! Just subscribed!
I hear a very remarkable hissing sound when in neutral and clutch out. I assume it just a matter of time that catastrophic pressure plate failure occures. gaaawd. Do you guys think when it comes to that, that I could manage to replace it? I did brakes twice and also front bearings, have only a small 69 piece cheap toolbox, 3/8 and 1/4 in. drive. Car is a civic MB3. D15Z8. 140k km. 1st clutch
Jafro I need help!!!!! I know you are a 4G63 guy but for the situation I'm in I need info. I have a 1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse 4G37 (1.8) that had a automatic transmission in it when. I had a 92 4G37 with a manual transmission in it and the automatic was shot. So I took on a big project for me and changed it to a manual transmission car. The first 1,000 miles were great! And then I soon realized why locktite is used on flywheel bolts. I changed the clutch with a new TB and Pressure plate and right away I had issues with 1st and reverse being really tough to get into. I was able to get some miles on the clutch and that seemed to help but it was never like it should be. I just lost the cluch due to being a cheap clutch and so I replaced it again just this evening. I put a washer behind the pivot ball and cleaned everything up and put it back together and it's still doing the exact same thing! I have tried using more of the master clutch pump adjustment and that seemed to help a little bit but i'm not sure if I need to do a little more adjustment. Your advice would be much appreciated!
Watch the other video Jafro posted regarding clutch adjustment. Unfortunately, some things you just have to learn by tinkering with it. Good luck
That hard zoom at 6:28 was hilarious and unexpected.
Damn bro thanks, lots of info!
hey mr jafro when you talk about on the play of the input shaft mine goes in and out what does it mean? and thanks for the videos help me lots and gave me a lot of courage to get dirty and create a mess in the garage
hello Jafro ..is it normal that the fork move millimeters to the right and left ...what make me check it ,is that i hear a squeaky voice but it disappear just touching the clutch pedal ..thanks for the video it answered a lot of questions in my head
Gm blocks have the dowel pins castes into them which is convenient
Hey Jafro, my I ask your advice on a flywheel grinding into my starter casing. I just pulled my starter and found this gem. I did notice my "hidden" transmission bolt to be loose as well, but I am shocked on how much that may matter. There are some thread on tuners but they are not much help. I appreciate your time, sir.
Hey jafro Is that an oem throw out bearing? I ordered one from stm and it doesn't have that groove around the bearing for the clip, only way the bearing stays on the fork is thru the ears.
I have taken the shift cables off and tried it manually it feels like it is locked I took it apart and looked at it. when I put it back together and put it back in the car it working but as soon as I stopped at some train tracks I tried to shift to 2ND and it didn't want to go in anymore
The bracket... the bracket that bolts them down to the transmission. Is that loose or on backwards? That's what I was referring to that you'd see if someone else shook the shifter around and went through the gears. If it was an internal problem with the transmission, you would have lost a pair of gears, not all the upper or lower ones on a shifter. That's why I gave you this diagnosis. It's happened to me before. Everything looked normal to me, but it was how the cables were bolted down and secured. Try going through all the gears directly from the shift linkage. It's the same pattern as the shifter, it's just sideways.
Hey I'm replacing my clutch and slave cylinder right now, and i was wondering what type of transmission fluid do i use. I have a 1998 Mitsubishi eclipse gs and i was just wondering what kind to use, if you know and could answer please be specific, thanks i appreciate it and once again great job on all the videos.
hi I wanted to see if you can answer a question I have my Tanny on my 98 eclipse gst will not shift in to 2,4, or reverse it shifts into 1,3,5 just fine I have opened it up and nothing is broken. need help
It's your shifter cables. They've come loose. They're supposed to be bolted down. Get someone to shake your shifter and go through the gears while you stand there and watch the cables.
nice
You should remove the goofy weight on the shift lever. I removed mine and i like it way better.
You talk A little bit about but transmission Dal pans "MD020260". Are these the same Dal pains as the engine to transmission or are they there separate pens ??
You know?... I'm going to look those up for you. I'll see if it's the same part... No. They are not the same part. They're completely different sizes. Mixing and matching these would be dangerous because you could mis-align the cylinder head.
MS471111 is the head dowel pins. They're 12x13mm. MD0202060 is for the transmission/block, and those are 10.5 x 19.3mm.
Jafromobile I just wanted to say Thank you for getting back-to me and your videos help tremendously. A problem that I'm having is finding the M8 Dal Pan that holds the Crank walk ball to the transmission. I went to dealer with the part number that you have posted in the point that I received was just the block to transmission dal pen. Do you have the part number for the actual one with m8 threads ?
The dealer has no idea what the "crankwalk bolt is". That crankwalk bolt IS a transmission-to-engine bolt. The dowel pin used on that bolt is the same dowel pin used on the M10 bolt on the other corner of the block. It is the transmission dowel pin, and there are two of them on opposite sides. It's not an M8 dowel pin, but an M8 bolt goes through it. That might be where the confusion is. The dealer won't know this. If you want it delivered to your house instead of driving to the dealer, maybe order it from mitspartsdirect?
Jafromobile do you the part number for it ? The md020260 is the the one I need . I need the ones for the transmission with the threads.
The dowel pins aren't threaded. Look deep in the hole of the transmission. It's got a 10.5mm smooth hole to accommodate the dowel pin, and then there's an M8 bolt hole further inside that part that's threaded. Notice the block has threads on the opposite side of the smooth bore. Those threads are M10, and nothing else screws into them unless you're bolting it to an engine stand. That's why the crankwalk bolt is weird. The M8 "crankwalk bolt" doesn't engage those threads because it's smaller in diameter, and the dowel pin is sandwiched between the transmission and the block to keep them aligned. Get 2 md020260's, your transmission bolts, the crankwalk bolt, and the transmission spacer plate. Put the spacer plate on, put the dowel pins in place, align the clutch, and put the transmission on, *then* torque the crankwalk bolt and you'll be golden. It's weird that it's 2mm smaller than the bolt on the opposite side, but that's how Mitsubishi did it.
THE HOLE WITH THE FORK IN IT!! HEHE
how the heck do u know all this