Trans & Clutch 5 - Install Transmission
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- Installing an AWD transmission, transfer case, axles, mounts, crossmember and sensors. Torque specs and part numbers are listed for a '95 AWD, but many of the fasteners are the same for 1g cars and later production models. Torque specs are covered where important.
Yes I know I'm missing a bushing from the crossmember, that's why I didn't torque it. I'll find it cleaning up.
I don't even own a DSM but enjoy your videos for the attention to detail and general ideas to use on my own car. Great stuff!
Most of what this has done is made me so glad my engine and transmission are in line with my car so I can just drop it from the under carriage
Very nice video! Very well explained and putting the torque specs in the video makes it even better. If every diy video was like this, everyone could be a mechanic haha
keep it up man
Love all these videos on the 4G63 . Iv learnt so much thank you . Helped me out where I was struggling . Keep them coming
Thanks for the quick torque spec references regarding this job comes in handy.
Also great work on commentaries bout the proper torque specs!
seems so easy when you have all those special tools
Thanks Jafro
I replace my dsm clutch with no issues due this video.
100 % he can rebuild this vehicle from ground out with his eyes closed !
my 1st DSM clutch job wasn't pretty. That axle retainer clip hung up inside, wouldn't let the axle loose. When finally did, the c-clip fell inside the transmission. Fun times 😧.
hey jafro...must say you sure no ur stuff,,,,im learning lots off of you,,,your an excelent teacher....makes working on my evo 3 easier cause of ur vids....looking forward to the rest....peace mah brah.....
This guy must be inlove with his torque wrench...
Amazing work! You provided lots of cool little hints to help me out with my 97 GSX. Thanks a lot.
Great vid once again my friend. I gotta stop slacking and get to filming as well. I have a bunch of goodies for my 2g this coming up season and I hope I can catch all of 'em on "tape."
U did a pretty well job. keep the good work and using the specifications as u did in this video
These videos helped me alot on doing my clutch job on my Talon..Thanks a bunch man..
Wonderful job! I just recently discovered your channel and am enjoying it a lot. Now I would know how to diagnose and remove seized clutch disk (already did the replacement on few cars). Thanks!
I can't wait to see this run again!
ProjectCarTV
This is a stock car and only has 68 thou on it. Its so hard to find a 5 speed, and the only ones I find a fwd with auto. So I figured I need to look further. The parts are there for sure!
@theredejvtec
You have to chim the pressure plate against the flywheel mounts!
thanks,my brother told me he will help me with it, hopefully it work out and i finally get it done soon.
Quite the informative video series.
Love the vids...You like to click the torque wrench like 10 times for each bolt, driving me crazy!
Sorry 'bout that. I went digital and fixed all my bad torque wrench habits. Formerly I was a skeptic of digital wrenches, but I now recommend it for everyone. Even if you can just borrow one. You'll discover 95% of the people using a clicker wrench are still using them wrong. Once you have to return it to its owner, you'll shell out large sums of money to have one of your own. I'm not kidding. It happened to me twice already and it's well documented here. My wallet still bares a scab from that wound.
new sub here. huge grateful for this series, however would like to see some of the super fast ff slowed a bit particularly the trans reinstall and knuckles n stuff. thanks so much for your obvious huge effort here.
great series man lol i love it and learned alot now if you could do one on a 93 civic D series engine that would be great too. thanks again.
nice videos! ive seen every one of your vids at least 2 times!
@Jafromobile You use blue threadlocker after mentioning earlier about lost bolts. Briefly, as you like, or not, what are your general thoughts on safety-wiring of fasteners on rebuilds of high-power cars? PS: Awesome solution to the seized clutch plates!
wish my evo x was that easy to remove and install the transmission and the transfer case takes 8 - 10 hours of work to change the clutch, and going to have to do that again soon hopefully it can wait till after my deployment
When I saw the Mitsubishi sign the first though was Dakar Rally and how you could work for some team. :]
4:15... thats what my trans kept getting caught on. I didnt remove the 3 bolts for the rear motor mount, but was able to loosen them enough to let it fall free. I think i'll take it off of the new trans and do it like you did lol. Also, do you recommend replacing the starter plate when you have the trans off?
it hits the top of the pressure plate,the engine is slanted downward where the transmission goes, ive tried changing the angle by lowering one side of the car and highreing the other,ive noticed that the transmission is not going in because it is supposed to be a bit sideways wich is not possible because of the way the transmission sits on the jack, the base of the transmission when sitting straight it looks too slanted when i higher it, i just wont be able to do it by myself, its too heavy.
i get the feeling you go through torque wrench's quite often the amount of times u check some bolts.
thanks for the great videos! helped out a ton with the process
Man Jafro I learn so much from your video sets it blows my mind just how much value these have for the DIY car guy. I was wondering if you had any advice on finding a reliable source of torque specs for my Subaru? Yeah it's not a DSM but it's RHD and a I cant find a Chilton manual or anything. I end up trying to find toque specs on forums and stuff, but I always end up calling the thing I'm torquing something different from what everyone else calls it...
Thanks man! Hit ebay and search your year/make/model, adding "service manual" or "shop manual" and you'll strike gold… ;)
Good call as simple as it sounds I never would have thought of it
Rofl 14:05 I managed to break the little plastic clip for the CTS ecu sensor lol. Good thing they are only like $13 at my work.
been trying to put the transmission back for 3 days in a row now, and still nothing
Another great vid man, you gotta gettem up faster !!!
I have a 99 gsx and the hidden bolt seems to be a bit different on mine? It's threaded on the bolt hole on the block side?? Bolt is missing cant find it any ideas?
fixed the clutch peddle but where does the gear oil go? on transferre case and transmission
i noticed your engine seemed straight,mine is slanted to the side, im guessing thats whts making it so hard for me to align it with the transmission,what do you recomend? i really need to get this done, its just a matter of putting things back together but this is giving me a hard time
Also, my shift linkage cable clips were loc-tited in there (took me like an hour to get them off today) any reason why the previous owner did that? Just a security issue you think, or is it something you would do if the clips were worn and he did it just to keep them in?
I have a 1990 talon tsi with what i think is an ACT 2100 clutch in it. (if the previous owner is correct). my problem is this, a while back the car was making terrible metal on metal sounds from the transmission, we replaced the transmission fluid which was low and the noise stopped. But now my car shakes and rattles everything between 1500-2500 rpm, drives smooth up to about 3500 rpm, then shakes alot around 4000. Cruising at 4k rpm in 5th gear feels like a back massage. here's the thing, i can drive in 5th gear at 4k rpm then put the clutch in and rev it to and past 4k without any shakes at all, but as soon as the clutch is engaged the car shakes again. same thing if im parked in neutral and rev the car up with and without the clutch engaged, one shakes the entire car alot more than the other. Sign of transmission failure soon? or just an off balance or worn out clutch component? A reply would be appriciated
Great..!
I love your work and how you explain everything so nicely oeople can understand..!
Just a quick one..does this transmition put bck, apply to a gvr4..?.. 1990..?..
How do i recognice where witch bolt goes bck in on the acctual transmition..?..do i have to follow torque spesc, on can i just tool tight..?..i know you be laughing by now.. :-)
You should never do this without a service manual. Every bolt on your car has a torque spec. There are very minor differences from the 1g turbo cars and the GVR-4. Depending on which year it might have 1 less bell housing bolt, a different spline count on the transfer case, the cross-members are different, roll stop engine mounts on the block instead of the transmission, different shifter linkage brackets, different lower control arms, and the vast majority of torque specs are exactly the same from one generation to the next because they're based off of materials that didn't change, and the same diameter and thread pitch of the bolts... but there are a few differences even there. The only way to find these difference is to follow the correct service manual. It's a super-easy job that just involves heavy things and time but it's a process.
Really though... EVERY bolt on your car has a torque spec. Some of the ones you mentioned... if you don't get it right you could experience catastrophic failures. Pay close attention to the "crankwalk bolt" in my videos. So much evidence is here showing how much damage can be caused by a loose or missing transmission bolt. It could be that the sole purpose for my existence is to serve as a warning to others.
I had the same coolant temp. sensor wire break off during my transmission/engine removal. Do you have a list of cars that I could find a replacement to snag off?
Installed a new act clutch kit and bleed system and my only issue is when I push clutch pedal down then barely release pedal car takes off. Would this issue be fixed with pedal adjustment ? Car has no issues with getting into gear
YES! It will be fixed with the adjustment. You need to increase the travel of the clutch actuator rod so that it moves MORE fluid That will raise the friction point. You can do this by either raising the pedal, or turning the clutch actuator rod counter-clockwise. ...or both if either one isn't enough. I made a video for this. :)
What? No Dielectric Grease on the plugs?
i cant get the tranni aligned with the motor
Hey Jafro, don't know if you'll get this or not, but that bolt that you are torquing down at exactly 09:00 in this video, do you happen to know where I can get one of those bolts or what the P/N is for it? Mine is far beyond reusable, and I have tried for hours to get Mitsu CAPS and ASA to work and have had zero luck (almost had ASA working, but some registry error...). Any help would be greatly appreciated man, thanks
Hey Jafro, where did you get your torque ratings for the lower control arm? Or all of them to be honest. I have the chiltons manual and all of my torque ratings are at least 5lbs short of yours lol. Kinda worries me that I may have to go back and retorque all my fasteners.
Mine are from the 1997 Mitsubishi service manual. I think I show it in a few of the videos in this series...
i have a rwd bmw n i wanna replace the engine with a rb26 motor with a awd transmission will i need any extra parts for the conversion to the awd?
Is the 98' Mitsubishi Galant se a little easier than this or is it as hard as this? I'm trying to change the clutch on it too but very different than this car.
hey i have a 1st gen talon 6 bolt motor clutch fork snapped and took trans out and back in now but peddle stills goes to the floor does anyone know why its doing this please let me know thanks
Well disregard my previous comment, found it on tuners! Thanks
Is it hard to convert an awd talon to a 5 speed? I cant see it being harder than rebuilding an engine! I can get a 98 buts its an auto.
Great videos
Hey jafro you wouldn't happen to know the torque spec for the end/5th cover would you? Can't find it anywhere
What size bolts do you need to bolt a 4G63 to an engine stand. Did a bunch of research, and nothing is stating what exactly works or not. Would it by chance be MB007173? What size bolts go at the top by the head, and what two go at the bottom of the engine block to mount to the stand? Can't seem to find this info anywhere.
+BoostedCajun I use turbo bolts. Hearty grade 11 turbo bolts. They're too long for the engine stand on one corner, so I slap a lug nut under that one. Stack of washers, huge nut, whatever you've got. If you take your turbo off, you're supposed to replace them anyway. Turbo bolts become engine stand bolts.
Man love this video u male it so easy, how long it take. i wanna be like that good like u man.
I am wondering if you can help me. I replaced my clutch components and i am in the process of getting my trans back on. The top 2 bolts are in and the trans it sitting against the block like it should be but the bottom of the trans is about 3/4 of and inch away from the block (the trans is tilted) I took the jack out from under the trans and it is still crooked. WHAT AM I MISSING???
AlexanderTheGreat110 It doesn't sound to me like the clutch is aligned correctly. If you can't raise the engine and close that gap, I'd pull the trans off, look at it, and see what's interfering. Also check to make sure the starter wires or another harness isn't caught between them.
Use a block of wood and jack the block up in the air. The engine sags without everything bolted up.
lol Caboose is guna rub his butt on ur pillow for stealing his litter
excellent as always, tks
Did you ever resurfaced your flywheel when installing a new clutch?
Yes, less than 500 miles earlier when the previous 6-puck clutch was installed. It seized to the input shaft of the transmission before it ever got a chance to break in, and that's why I'm replacing it in this video. The flywheel was cut to a .610" step height.
I'm rebuilding my Stealth, do you have any advice regarding engine installation?
How do I get the input shaft to line up with the engine? The guide nubs look right on but I can't get the transmission and engine together and I have less than an inch to go. Nothing seems to be in the way either.
Did you use the clutch centering tool? That's part of it. Another part is to have the splines rotated in-line. Finally it's mandatory to have the input shaft perfectly-linear with the crankshaft because you can't install it at even the slightest angle. My best results installing the transmission have always occurred using an engine hoist to raise it into position because the transmission is swinging on a chain and I can manipulate its approach height, rotation, and angle more easily that I can with a jack or a transmission lift. A transmission lift is ideal because it has height, and angle adjustments built into its platform, but few people use this tool in their home garages because it's expensive. I've been known to use guide bolts. *Make sure by ALL MEANS that you have both transmission dowel pins in place on the far corners before you fully-seat the bell housing against the block. Failure to line these up and nail the dead center can lead to main and thrust bearing failures in the engine.* Doing this with a floor jack and a block of wood is possible. It will wear you out. I fought mine for nearly an hour doing it this way. It only took me about 10 minutes to do this with an engine hoist.
Everything is in, just trying to get the lower control arms tight. Got 3 of 4 but that last one will not stop turning and I'm practically lifting the car trying to get weight on it. Any suggestions? Could it be I need a new control arm cause I do see some grease outside the boot. Also, my wheel bearing/hub needs to be replaced but it's seized in the knuckle. Tried to use the steering to push it out but I can't get the proper angle to press it out.
The nut wasn't going either way, couldn't take it off or tighten it down. But I got that, lifted on the arm and jammed some wood between other arm and wheel well. That did the trick. Now clutch pedal isn't coming back up so I'm gonna bleed the system. Hope that does it.
Why does my transmission leaks fluid by the flywheel inspection plate?
How are you sure it's the transmission? The rear main seal could be leaking, in that case, it would be engine oil. It's behind the flywheel. Either way, it's not good. It will contaminate the clutch and cause either the engine or transmission to run dry… which would be catastrophic to either one depending on which is leaking.
I'm sure its the transmission fluid that was leaking
I don't believe the transmission input shaft seal (if AWD) is externally-replaceable, so if that's the seal that's leaking, the fix will likely involve everything a clutch job would take, plus having a transmission shop replace all the seals. Most shops would charge about $650 to do this if you brought them the transmission, because opening the case is like pulling a pin on a grenade.
The output shaft seal for AWD I believe is externally-replaceable because it's visible looking into the bell housing.
Thanks man! you sir saved the day for my hahah
Will these spec work for a 2g Eclipse gs with the 4g64 motor?? And are the bolt size the same when dealing with the transmission blots?
It's a LOT of research and guess work for me to answer this with any sort of precision. My gut instinct says it's all the same because it's a 4g6x and you're talking about transmission parts. As far as I know, unless it's a wideblock (mighty max I think?), it should be exactly the same. To know for sure, I have to find the service manual for the year of car that your engine came from and look it up. I'm pretty sure the factory service manual you're looking for is free and available online. I had to pay for the Hyundai because nobody had it anywhere else, but the 4gxx stuff is all over the community.
Jafromobile ok thanks for the input
ได้แต่ดูฟังไม่รู้เรื่อง
Hey jafro, i hate to be a pain in the ass, but could you message me please? I cant seem to find your pm button on youtube rofl
haha millipeter
stop: using metric bolts on a dodge! And stop mixing foot-pounds with metric bolts. Believe me, I made the same mistake a couple times and it has bitten me!
this is definetely not a one man job, its impossible to align the transmission without it falling to the floor a million times from the cat.
FF videos are never helpful, i wanna see real time step by step