Am I the only one dying from laughter?! These videos are exceedingly helpful and carry a genuine comedic relief not found in any other auto how-to. Thank you so much!
All that wire braided hose and AN fittings for every fluid that is, really like seeing that! Of course, let’s not forget all that effort spent polishing and debuting of that engine! Looking good sports fans!👍🏻😊💖 OCD and damn proud of it! Yessir!
lol dude i love the videos you make. Nothing but a quick laugh while schooling yourself on how to do these repairs. you sir, are a god send. Keep up the great work!
Your a bad ass mechanic man. Thanks for your videos. Im changing the oil pan gasket on my 95 Eclipse tomorrow and wasnt sure about the cross member bar. Its been awhile since I removed it so thanks for refreshing my memory =). Eclipse's are awesome rides had my current since I was 15 years old and im 28 now. From one Eclipse lover to another much respect man.
Thanks for including all the links! They helped me decide that for me given the cold temps that I'll see with the car that lightweight shockproof is going to be best for my t case and rear end, as recommended when under 45*
Whoa!! Wish I knew that method @ 4:48 on my 82 corolla rear diff...jeez, I could never get those off easily...I will now use the Jafromobile hammer method :) Thanks for your vids they're awesome.
my old gear oil from the transmission was silver. I have a pic if you want to see it, and only about 1/2 a quart came out when I removed the axles. I'm guessing this is a thing to avoid lol.
Question did you empty your oil from the transmission before adding the gear oil or did you just top it off? Thanks again very helpful videos I'm about to do all these steps on my 1992 3000gt vr4 :-)
in 4:10 are you using a Genius brand swivel? i bought that set and have used it for two years now constantly and have had no issues alot of other people complain but for 80$ it was worth it
People around the world should start to send you gifts, as you saved tons of $ to lots of people..! You rock..! Thank you for your very helpfull videos, keeping us 4g63 lovers happy :-)
@Jafromobile that makes sense, now if the transmission was worn at all, would i be able to notice? all gears pick up fine and pull smoothly it is a little unsmooth shifting from gear to gear like it sometimes is a little iffy to go in reverse smoothly. but seems like it drives and shifts good so, im just wondering . would the transmission being worn at all,be noticable to the drive, or only when it gets to a very worn state.?
@Jafromobile yeah there is an orange label that says its a 1.5 way. I can do donuts on dry pavement. it has no understear. I dont really know anything about the benefits of it but, its kinda cool because i havent heard of anyone with a 1.5lsd.
are you running stock rubber engine mount inserts or the pro-poly? im undecided on what to use, I heard propoly are squeeky and very rough as appose to the OEM.
Is it ok if I use lightweight redline shockproof gear oil for my lsd rear end? I read that it was bad using this for cars with lsd rear end. I have a 95 tsi.
I don't know why everyone says to avoid Royal Purple. Seems to me using Synchromesh is a bad idea but they make gear oil which conforms to everything specified for the transmissions as well as being non corrosive to yellow metals.
I saw that, but it doesn't explain why people say not to use their gear oil in these cars. Even synchromesh fluid appears to work without issue in the gearbox if the internet is anything to be believed.
i know what you mean i work for hyundai and just bought a set of snap-on half inch swivels and i love them but hate the price. but you get what you pay for
I have a 97 gst that the previous owner did not change the oil in the manual transaxle, it currently has about 97k. would you recommend I change it or leave it as is?
if it's a manual transaxle, and you use the right fluid, there's no reason why you can't. It may shift a little smoother, but it won't fix or improve the condition of any of its parts. As long as it wasn't run low on oil, you should be fine.
hey jafromobile I am also running a tre transmission stage 3 with 4 spider limited slip center diff, and on tre's site it shows a motul 300 75w90 ls which has the friction modifiers used for limited slip diffs...so which am I supposed to use? have you had any problems using the regular motul 300
A 4-spider diff is not a limited slip diff. It just has 4 spider gears so there's more gear surface area to absorb the pounding that a well built 4g63 can deliver. If you've got the LSD option, then by all means, follow their directions. I do not have the LSD. Mine worked great before I spun rod bearings. In fact, it never shifted better. It was the best shifting transmission I ever had, and I've had 4.
+Jafromobile I have been misinformed then, on his website on the stage 3 build he list a "tre 4 spider limited slip front center diff" thanks for the help.
boostedunrivaledteg Today's stage 3 isn't the same thing as 10 years ago's stage 3. They've changed standards over time. I've bought 4 TRE transmissions since 2001. He used to offer a stage 2.5 and that's what I've got, It's the last of the 2.5's but with additional upgrades that 10 years ago would have made it a 3. If the stage 3 has an LSD today, it didn't back then. Check your build sheet (your receipt) to see if yours is older than 2007. It will list the differential you have. I know you've got a 2" thick folder of receipts for this car somewhere if you're using one of these transmissions. ;)
+Jafromobile hahaha my transmission has 644 miles on it as well as my motor, transmission was rebuilt in may of this year, but yea I don't keep receipts as I don't like to know how much money I've put into this car of mine lol...but I love your videos you have been a big part of me understanding and learning about dsms.
*@**2:00* Wow- isn't there a way, product, or method to "flush out" all that nasty goo from the transfer case? Lather, rinse, repeat? Then- blow out this flushing media? (I'd suggest heating a couple quarts of ATF with a saucepan and hot plate in the shop, pour in with a hosed funnel, cap it, up on jack stands, run for 10 minutes, drain, repeat, blow out with air nozzle) ATF makes a great "flusher" for oiled systems- including engines. It just doesn't seem that all the draining time would get rid of the old stuff. 0.53O quart of any lubrication is very small- even a lawn mower takes 1 quart! Too bad it doesn't have a remote oil reserve. What say you? Thank you.
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP Drive it on the highway for a half hour, then drain it hot. I suppose flushing it out could be another use for the siphon feed blow gun? But unless you've got ground up chunks of something in there, draining it hot and refilling it should suffice.
I do not deviate from factory recommend products or those that match their standards exactly and I will tell you why. There are products like extreme pressure additives that can be HIGHLY corrosive to yellow metals. To make it worse, there are many different kinds of EPs. They may work short term, but long term, they can destroy all the yellow metals in your transmission. Stick with factory spec oils.
Am I the only one dying from laughter?! These videos are exceedingly helpful and carry a genuine comedic relief not found in any other auto how-to. Thank you so much!
All that wire braided hose and AN fittings for every fluid that is, really like seeing that! Of course, let’s not forget all that effort spent polishing and debuting of that engine! Looking good sports fans!👍🏻😊💖 OCD and damn proud of it! Yessir!
lol dude i love the videos you make. Nothing but a quick laugh while schooling yourself on how to do these repairs. you sir, are a god send. Keep up the great work!
Your a bad ass mechanic man. Thanks for your videos. Im changing the oil pan gasket on my 95 Eclipse tomorrow and wasnt sure about the cross member bar. Its been awhile since I removed it so thanks for refreshing my memory =). Eclipse's are awesome rides had my current since I was 15 years old and im 28 now. From one Eclipse lover to another much respect man.
Thanks for including all the links!
They helped me decide that for me given the cold temps that I'll see with the car that lightweight shockproof is going to be best for my t case and rear end, as recommended when under 45*
bblauter Awesome! Thanks for coming back to shout it out loud! :)
Whoa!! Wish I knew that method @ 4:48 on my 82 corolla rear diff...jeez, I could never get those off easily...I will now use the Jafromobile hammer method :) Thanks for your vids they're awesome.
ive been watching your videos man and i must say i enjoy them a lot good work
Fantastic. Another great video. Thank you.
This is a very informative video. Thanks so much! I really enjoyed it.
i use redline all the way around. love that stuff
I'm planning on running MT-90 on mine when i get it back in.
my old gear oil from the transmission was silver. I have a pic if you want to see it, and only about 1/2 a quart came out when I removed the axles. I'm guessing this is a thing to avoid lol.
Question did you empty your oil from the transmission before adding the gear oil or did you just top it off? Thanks again very helpful videos I'm about to do all these steps on my 1992 3000gt vr4 :-)
HEY J.... WISH U WERE MY MECHANIC, GREAT VID & JOB!!!
in 4:10 are you using a Genius brand swivel? i bought that set and have used it for two years now constantly and have had no issues alot of other people complain but for 80$ it was worth it
People around the world should start to send you gifts, as you saved tons of $ to lots of people..!
You rock..!
Thank you for your very helpfull videos, keeping us 4g63 lovers happy
:-)
@Jafromobile that makes sense, now if the transmission was worn at all, would i be able to notice? all gears pick up fine and pull smoothly it is a little unsmooth shifting from gear to gear like it sometimes is a little iffy to go in reverse smoothly. but seems like it drives and shifts good so, im just wondering . would the transmission being worn at all,be noticable to the drive, or only when it gets to a very worn state.?
@Jafromobile yeah there is an orange label that says its a 1.5 way. I can do donuts on dry pavement. it has no understear. I dont really know anything about the benefits of it but, its kinda cool because i havent heard of anyone with a 1.5lsd.
So have you taken it for a drive yet? Hows your new clutch?
are you running stock rubber engine mount inserts or the pro-poly? im undecided on what to use, I heard propoly are squeeky and very rough as appose to the OEM.
shock proof is amazing stuff
I have 2 95 gsx. 1 is a VLSD and the other is a 1.5way lsd? Do you think that was a dealers option back in the day?
Is it ok if I use lightweight redline shockproof gear oil for my lsd rear end? I read that it was bad using this for cars with lsd rear end. I have a 95 tsi.
I don't know why everyone says to avoid Royal Purple. Seems to me using Synchromesh is a bad idea but they make gear oil which conforms to everything specified for the transmissions as well as being non corrosive to yellow metals.
I'm using Royal Purple assembly lube on my Hyundai build. :)
I saw that, but it doesn't explain why people say not to use their gear oil in these cars. Even synchromesh fluid appears to work without issue in the gearbox if the internet is anything to be believed.
i know what you mean i work for hyundai and just bought a set of snap-on half inch swivels and i love them but hate the price. but you get what you pay for
what stage trans do you have? and how has it held up?
I am having a gst automatic, it is the same Way changing Oil like manual?
I have a 97 gst that the previous owner did not change the oil in the manual transaxle, it currently has about 97k.
would you recommend I change it or leave it as is?
if it's a manual transaxle, and you use the right fluid, there's no reason why you can't. It may shift a little smoother, but it won't fix or improve the condition of any of its parts. As long as it wasn't run low on oil, you should be fine.
Your mitsubishhi eclipse this 4wheel drive??
do som of these have LSD?Do u hav to put in LSD gear oil?
lol the "SQUEEEEEEEZ"!!!!!!
hey jafromobile I am also running a tre transmission stage 3 with 4 spider limited slip center diff, and on tre's site it shows a motul 300 75w90 ls which has the friction modifiers used for limited slip diffs...so which am I supposed to use? have you had any problems using the regular motul 300
A 4-spider diff is not a limited slip diff. It just has 4 spider gears so there's more gear surface area to absorb the pounding that a well built 4g63 can deliver. If you've got the LSD option, then by all means, follow their directions. I do not have the LSD. Mine worked great before I spun rod bearings. In fact, it never shifted better. It was the best shifting transmission I ever had, and I've had 4.
+Jafromobile I have been misinformed then, on his website on the stage 3 build he list a "tre 4 spider limited slip front center diff" thanks for the help.
boostedunrivaledteg Today's stage 3 isn't the same thing as 10 years ago's stage 3. They've changed standards over time. I've bought 4 TRE transmissions since 2001. He used to offer a stage 2.5 and that's what I've got, It's the last of the 2.5's but with additional upgrades that 10 years ago would have made it a 3. If the stage 3 has an LSD today, it didn't back then. Check your build sheet (your receipt) to see if yours is older than 2007. It will list the differential you have. I know you've got a 2" thick folder of receipts for this car somewhere if you're using one of these transmissions. ;)
+Jafromobile hahaha my transmission has 644 miles on it as well as my motor, transmission was rebuilt in may of this year, but yea I don't keep receipts as I don't like to know how much money I've put into this car of mine lol...but I love your videos you have been a big part of me understanding and learning about dsms.
boostedunrivaledteg I'm glad to hear good ol' Jon's still kickin' it. I should send him another transmission just to say hi.
*@**2:00* Wow- isn't there a way, product, or method to "flush out" all that nasty goo from the transfer case? Lather, rinse, repeat? Then- blow out this flushing media? (I'd suggest heating a couple quarts of ATF with a saucepan and hot plate in the shop, pour in with a hosed funnel, cap it, up on jack stands, run for 10 minutes, drain, repeat, blow out with air nozzle) ATF makes a great "flusher" for oiled systems- including engines. It just doesn't seem that all the draining time would get rid of the old stuff. 0.53O quart of any lubrication is very small- even a lawn mower takes 1 quart! Too bad it doesn't have a remote oil reserve. What say you? Thank you.
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP Drive it on the highway for a half hour, then drain it hot. I suppose flushing it out could be another use for the siphon feed blow gun? But unless you've got ground up chunks of something in there, draining it hot and refilling it should suffice.
what type of coil pack is that on the 4g63
Chrysler 300M. Details are in one of my videos titled "How to build a 4g63 Coil On Plug Assembly ""
Can you work on my gsx
Squeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezeeeeeeeeeee
DSM bible lol
If your gear oil stinks there is a problem blown diffs stink
I do not deviate from factory recommend products or those that match their standards exactly and I will tell you why. There are products like extreme pressure additives that can be HIGHLY corrosive to yellow metals. To make it worse, there are many different kinds of EPs. They may work short term, but long term, they can destroy all the yellow metals in your transmission. Stick with factory spec oils.
And squeeEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEeeeee 😂😂😂😂