Why is it that Ford, or any of the other manufacturers for that matter, do not issue recall's for these obvious mistakes in design and engineering?! Customers pay $90k for a truck and have to put up with this?! Great channel and appreciate the info from you and AROD!! Sad that it is necessary...
what they said, money, and recalls are also mainly for something that can get you seriously hurt like an air bag recall or seatbelt recall, so if your truck is leaking oil ford's gonna think "well that's not gonna kill you" and theyre not gonna spend the extra money on that kinda recall, companies are only gonna recall something that will put them in a lawsuit
I have had my 17 F250 6.7 for 11 days. Just found oil leaking from the engine or lower oil pan. Thankfully the truck came with a 100,000 mile warranty or I’d be out a few thousand.
@@FlyingWrenches13 No Sir, I drive commercially hauling campers all over the US. I currently have a '19 F250 6.7 Powerstroke. Love it, but starting to look at the 450s!
What a great channel this is. I have a 2016 450 and it has just developed a leak. A small one. It isn't even dripping on the ground yet. I only knew about it because my dog chased a cat under it and came out with an oil slick on his shoulders. I haven't discovered where it's leaking yet, but now I have a few ideas of where to look. Keep up the good work!
As a tech, it doesn't matter what I'm working on. I only use Toyota's FIPG or "The Right Stuff" by permatex (who I think might have copied the Toyota formula.) Both are so good that they will seal well even if the surfaces are somewhat dirty, oily, etc. The Toyota sealer is way expensive and not nearly as readily available, so in recent years, I've primarily used "The Right Stuff" in the small caulking gun compatible size.
How in the heck do you have fewer than 6k subs!?! You give amazing advice and info to Ford guys. I'm a Ram guy, but respect your mechanical acumen. #subbed!
I wish I would have seen your channel a year ago. I made the mistake of trading my perfectly good 2002 F250 7.3L Powerstroke for a new 2016 F350 6.7L Powerstroke. Then last summer it started leaking oil substantially. The local Ford dealer initially diagnosed the issue as a leaking vacuum pump assembly. After teo months of waiting for parts, they made the repair and the day I drove it home, the leak was worse than it had ever been. Oil running everywhere after the 6 mile drive home. Puddles of oil, not just drips. After returning to the dealership, they then said it was the front cover leaking. The two repairs cost me over $4,000 and the truck was five months out of warranty. It only had 65,000 miles on it. Ford would not contribute one single cent to helping with this repair cost. Have been a Ford truck guy since 1973 but this is the last Ford I'll ever own. I appreciate all your excellent advice, wish I would have seen it sooner!
Great idea on the upper pan. I remember PTT filming that RTV video in my driveway 🤣. I agree with PTT that needed to be said. I was told day one at the dealership never use black rtv on diesels. I always had a tube of gray in my gun.
I did a video on my channel replacing the lower oil pan on a 2015 Powerstroke. It’s crazy how many of these trucks we work on and you wonder why they did not get it right in the first place! Nice video man!
I will agree, I think the RTV with high crankcase pressures is asking for trouble. Somebody has said they went back to a gasket with the 2021s? Haven't confirmed with the manual yet.
It’s a press style gasket on the 21 upper pans, which I loved when I first seen them. Butttt they siliconed the front cover 🤦🏼♂️ it’s like they just want the engine to leak haha
I had leak at the vacuum pump, the bolts backed out. Put a new seal in with some locktite and she's good. I know it's a common problem and I actually saw it on RUclips, couldn't have been one of PTT AROD'S videos as well. 👍
I have the non filter ccv on my 18'. I have 115k on it and no pressure from the oil fill cap. Should I still change the ccv? Is there a different service interval for these as opposed to the filter tyep? Should i change it regardless to prevent an oil leak or keep going and keep checking for pressure? Thanks!
I had the same concern. When I was at about 110k a popular guy told me no pressure, it's fine. A friend of mine is in charge of 900+ trucks for ComEd and he told me I should change it asap. He recommended even if there is no pressure to change it no later than 100k miles. At 150k I had no leaks and no pressure. At my 150k oil change I used Hot Shot secrets stiction eliminator and my truck was making a weird noise and while trying to locate the noise I notice it had developed an upper pan seep. I changed the vent right away. It spilled a bunch of oil while removing it. I am not sure if that is normal with a good vent or only when it is done doing it's job. My recommendation would be to change it. I am not sure if the stiction remover caused the leak/seep or if it was the vent. Next time I will change mine before 100k to be safe. Good luck.
Thanks for the tips,Tips, the 6.7 upper oil pan leaks,I have a 2016 f250 6.7,I have had my pan replace 1 time had it off 4 times,now going for the 5th time,this time now out of my pocket @2260.$,Im just now ordering the 2011 oil pan,going to use the Ta-31 selant.Thanks KF.
Thanks for the tips Bro. I have a 2015 F550 6.7l that I have a lot of oil coming out of the top engine valley like if it was shooting out of the turbo.
I have replaced just as many upper oil pans leaks on 2011 as much as any other year models because the gaskets get rocked hard and leak. When it comes to using silicone for sealing I have always used the 7.3 silicone because it’s just the best.
I’ve done some too, but most of the time they have 250k+ miles on them before they start leaking. I most certainly agree on the silicone though. Ta-31 is the way to go.
Change the CCV box that he talks about in this video. The 2019 number is FC3Z 6A785-F. That will get you the filter less CCV box Crank Case Vent box but I know it’s been updated to newer numbers since but at least that number will get you a filter less box. Or just change the filter in your box every time you do the fuel filters which should be done at least every 20k. Also start changing your oil at least every six months and use a good quality oil. I switched to Rotella T6 and it seems to be doing well. Also change your air filter frequently especially if you are driving in dusty conditions. Hope this helps.
Hate that there's no recall or TSB on this. Thanks for the tip on the 2011 pan, I'm on my 2nd failure (first was at 33,000 kms, now the 2nd at 148,000 kms). Thinking the culprit is the CCV filter? Do you happen to have the PN for the 2011 pan? Would you recommend re-sealing the front cover as well while Ford has the oil pan off?
I know this is a older video but my 22 with 33k miles is in the shop with a oil leak. I was changing my oil and found a leak on the engine above the filter. They just confirmed rear main seal leak, no excessive crank case pressure. Was have extremely hard down shift is tow haul from 3-2 and 2-1. After a few times in and they heard me say tow haul then they figured out about a TSB for exactly that. Reprogrammed my TCM and truck shifts way better now. They said it only would affect the tow haul mode but swear the truck shifts better all the way around. Anyway I think that hard shifting is what caused it to leak. When I say hard shifting I mean 20k pound trailer and feels like holy Jesus the transmission just left the conversation!
Quick question I’m new to diesels and I have a new 22 6.7 ps and I was curious where the new box is located and is there any maintenance that needs to be done on it?
Very helpful. Great to listen to experience. I have oil dripping above the oil filter in the area of the what looks like the starter on a 2011 6.7 diesel. It looks like it runs down the bell housing seam and collects on top of the middle of the oil pan. Will a rear engine seal show signs of oil above the oil filter by the starter? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Hello Mayson, I have a 2019 F450 and I just had to have the Turbo replaced at 48,000 miles, The Tec mentioned that he saw some oil in the turbo housing ( I believe it was on the exhaust side) could this have been caused by a clogged crankcase filter?? Thanks Paul
Great tips. I’ve already replaced the turbo on my 2018 with the new superseded part. CCV filter is next. I’ll take your advice & get the newer all in one part. Fingers crossed I don’t need to replace the upper pan, since i’d have to figure out which kid i’m gonna sell to afford it. Thanks for putting this together.
Has anyone tried loctite 511 anaerobic flange sealant on the later pans without the oring seal? It seems to be a good alternative as excess doesn't harden eliminating the possibility of clogged oil passages or pump screens.
hey Thanks for all the tips I have a question On a 2011 6.7 I have a oil leak that look like its on the top rear of the engine but I can't see were it is any Idea
I just did my 2013 6.7 upper pan, but I don't have oil pressure. Confirmed no pressure sensor is fine, no oil movement into the filter. Was there a priming procedure I missed? I didn't have the correct engine hoist brackets, so I just rigged up something to hold it from the front case. Could that have damaged the oil pump?
Quick question, i saw your video about the CCV filter and tried to change mine. Its a 2017 but it looks like it has a sealed filter, you said it started in 2019. Is there any way a 2017 could have wound up with one of the sealed units?
What production date would be an example of a late build 2019? My 2019 has the box without the bolts on top so I’ll assume that’s the good box? Would anything past 06/2019 be a late build 2019?
My 2017 has never leaked a drop of anything. All original, over 125k on it, and the only thing it ever drops is water when the AC is on. In fact, my only fear is the CP4 failing before I can install the disaster prevention kit. With an EGR delete, I expect the engine to be solid for a million miles or more. If it does start leaking I will keep this tip in mind though, thanks.
You seriously think that your engine isn’t supposed to leak ever? Seals leak eventually between 100-200k and that’s how it is on all cars doesn’t matter.
@@AndrewKidd14145 Ah, somebody who doesn't do maintenance. I have had Harley's go over 200k without seal failure (Evo engines). Had a Dakota or two with no leaks over 150k. Had two 1995 Rangers with no leaks. One was a 2.3L I4, one was a 3.0 V6. The I4 had 363k wheb a guy hit and flipped me (rolled twice). The other had 312k when a 700cc quad fell out of a truck and hit it so hard it bent a frame rail. So yes, you CAN prevent leaks. The bigger thing here is that nowhere did I say an engine never leaks or that it won't given enough miles. You inferred that on your own.
@@GuretoSefirosu I’m a tech, rubber gaskets sweat what you do doesn’t matter. It will leak at the mileages I say. Data from millions of other cars say so. You got lucky on those cars and got the good ones.
@@AndrewKidd14145 The only vehicle I own that has EVER leaked, is my Harley. This is due to a bad design. They use a metal ball that, when oil pressure stops, seats and is supposed to prevent the flow of oil from the oil tank (up by the rear seat) into the crankcase. The thing is, if ANYTHING gets between the ball and seat, the crankcase fills and it starts leaking opil through the crankcase breather. I have thought about putting a 90deg "off" valve in the hose between the tank and crankcase, but it terrifies me to think I'd forget to open it and ride off... Also, I just checked my 6.7 above and below. No wet spots or anything. 135k. Going in for the oil/filter change soon. Maybe I am lucky, but I go way beyond filters and oil. I do engine and cabin air, spark plugs when I had gas engines, transfer case, transmission, differential fluids, brake fluid, coolant (both of them on this truck) at regular intervals. I also try to clean the engine and panels that cover it. Looks good and prevents excess heat. Oh, and I run the HECK out of my trucks. I have been 5,000mi in the past two months! Letting them sit is what I believe damages them more.
Love my powerstoke but seriously considering getting rid if it because of this isse. 46k miles and it is in the shop right now for another warrantied upper oil pan. On top of that the dealer never wants to repair it because they say its not leaking bad enough. Makes you feel great to spend 65k on a truck and the dealer tell you its “weeping” and they only fix “leaks”!!
Yeah I get that. Most dealers are doing that because there are sooo many of them leaking right now it’s hard to keep up. Once resealed properly though it shouldn’t leak again!
Do you see any common issues with the ccv delete? I currently have the updated box but in order to install a full piping kit the ccv needs to be gone since the return line will no longer exist.
I would love to get the new CCV box that doesn't need filter replacement. I have a 2017 f250 6.7 powerstroke. Do you have the part number for the new box or a specific name for the new box?
Why dose my 2012 have the baffle not the filter box if it’s the old version. I’ve owned the truck for 9 years. And how could I tell if I have the o ring pan for sure. What are the cut off dates for the mid years.
I have a 6-7 2011 I've changed the oil feed line cuz it seems like the oil is coming from the top down and it was leaking from there cuz it was making a pool in the valley and before the turbo sits I still have a leak and it's coming from the top also my crankcase filter does not unscrew it's completely sealed I had one mechanic tell me that it's probably that I have 221,000 mi on my 2011 6.7 powerstroke is there any thing you can tell me about the six seven that can help me out fixing my oil leak
There is several places oil could be leaking on the top of that engine. If it’s still pooling up in the valley you most likely have a leak from turbo area. Add some oil dye to it and retest with a black light.
Thanks Fly. But that one problem I never had. Oil leaks. My problems We’re, 2011, 6.7 . Needed exhaust cooler replacement cost about 10,000.00 to fix. And my 2013, 6.7. Spun its main bearings at 28,000 miles. Ford wanted 25,000.00 dollars, for a generation 3, 6.7. So l traded both in for a 2022 f350 7.1, gas motor. And got a 2022 International CV, for my dump truck.
I have the original oil separator on my 2015 6.7. I don't have any pressure in system when opening oil cap but I do have a front or pan leak. Do I need to replace my original oil separator and if so can I replace it with the newer one. My dealer said my original doesn't have a filter in it either.
Is the CCV box / baffle change out doable without lifting the cab? My ‘17 6.7 leaks and I’m looking to get the pan done- thanks for these tips. At the same time I want to convert to the baffle - I saw your previous video and when I found the leak I changed the filter… still leaks. :(
So I just bought a new ccv box and hose today. I broke my old hose and have no idea if the box has ever been replaced. My question to you is, with these new updated boxes, how often do we change service/change them?
bad taste in the mouth doesn't come from the leaks. Bad taste in the mouth comes from not making stuff to prevent it and making it in a way that is so complicated and expensive to fix it. Leaking seam? 10 dollars for new silicone 2500 dollars to get to it and put it back together.
Hey brother I just dropped off my 16’ for y’all to do this on. Since I’m paying for it can you please see about getting a 2011 pan for it? I’ll be happy to pay the up charge If you say it will fix it for good. This is the 4th re seal I’ve had but wanted to try y’all bc I know y’all are the best. I knew about the o ring pan on the earlier trucks but never knew it was possible to retrofit it. Thanks man
My problem is not with the upper pan, but I have oil in the valley. I did a CCV delete a couple of years ago. I ran the hose over the top of the master cylinder, down to the frame and back to the rear axel to avoid the stink from the fumes. Well, over time and not tying the hose up properly, it developed a sag acted like a P-trap in a sink. This last winter I acted stupid and idled it excessively in the cold weather. When I tried to get back on the road again, i got about fifteen miles and it looked like i was fogging for mosquitoes. When i pulled over, the tail pipe was coated with and dripping oil. On the way home it stopped smoking. But i found that i had gone through 2.5 quarts of oil. Thats when I discovered the blockage in the CCV bypass hose. I also pulled off the hot and cold side pipes (Pusher) and they were both very oily. That's when I discovered the oil in the valley. I cleaned out everything, topped off the oil and took it for a drive. It's been working fine but im still getting oil in the valley. Im gonna sop up all the oil, degrease it and use some dye to find the problem. My question is, is it possible for oil to get into the valley through where the fuel pump mounts?
So does the new crankcase “filter” need to be replaced every so often or is it a lifetime thing that never clogs or wears out. I was thinking about a ccv reroute because of the filters getting clogged but maybe if I just switch boxes I won’t have to. What are your thoughts about a ccv reroute. Does it hurt the turbo or engine in anyway ?
Front crank seal is a small job compared to having the front cover or upper pan resealed. If that is what’s causing your leak it should be a few hour repair for any shop. I will say though it’s most likely leaking from the vacuum pump mounted right above the crank pulley. The bolts are notorious for backing out causing it to leak. Most of the time you can just tighten them up to stop it.
Help! You mentioned in one of your previous oil leak videos that the 2011 - 2016 powerstrokes (I have a 2015 F350 V8 6.7L 4WD DRW) had a crankcase with no filter but that it could still pressure up? Was hoping this video would talk about that a little bit. I have small oil leaks, but like you said, I don't want to fix the leaks without first determining any issues regarding the crankcase. Can you write any recommendations regarding how I can determine if the crank case is the issue in my example and if it is, do I just replace it (I think i remember you saying it was sealed or something)? Any assistance is appreciated.
You can check your crankcase pressure by pulling the oil cap with the engine running. It shouldn’t have much pressure. A lot of the time the separator will become swole on the top when it becomes clogged.
Check the build date on driver door sticker. I’m not sure exactly what date they changed but if you’ll post your build date in here I’ll check it tomorrow at work.
@@FlyingWrenches13 Good news.I’m learning my way around the 6.7 thanks to you and Arod . Saving time and money when possible. Next project is the bottom plastic oil pan which leaks. I have the steel oil pan from Ford house and the number 31 Ford oem Grey sealant. Ford parts says no gasket. Should I find a gasket or go without one on the new steel oil pan . Hate to have to do it twice. Thanks
216,000 miles on my 2011 f250. Doesn’t leak or use a drop of oil between changes. I don’t like the plastic drain plug but change to a new one with every oil change. Does the new style CCV Box need changing every 50k or is it permanent?
Loctite 509 on every gasket job. No leaks guaranteed ! Hard to separate the parts if you ever need to if you put too much though ! Used on all high end cars .
Did Ford do a update for the old trucks for the CV filter? I looked and our 2016 doesn't have bolts. Looks like a sealed unit. But we got the truck 2020 with 21k and we didn't have the dealer do anything to it. Unless the prior owner did but at 21k unless he had an issue or one of the service trips they just did it for him. Idk
my 2017 came with sealed box...small leak for a while and now finding out that it is $$ repair...the thing is I do not feel any pressure at the oil fill and was wondering if my sealed CCV needs replacing...if you have a leak due to the CCV box shouldnt you be able to detect pressure by putting you hand over the oil fill tube?..
Thanks for the tip on using the 2011 oil pan part. My Jan./2019 build has the non serviceable CCV box. Is there still a recommended replacement interval for this style CCV box? Have you found them to still clog up around a certain mileage?
I haven’t seen any without the filter clog. Once you have the updated box, you shouldn’t have to do anything else. That box will last the life of the vehicle.
@@FlyingWrenches13 Trying to clear up the mud in my mind: if the CCV box does not have bolts to take the box apart, this is the non-filter version, right? Mine is a 2017 build without bolts on the CCV box.
Can’t go wrong with a rod. He’s been working on my truck for years now. 200k and going strong on my 6.7. Having him put a dCR on my truck in January! When my pan starts leaking (it’s a 14) probably going to take this advice and try to find the 11 pan.
I have a 18 king ranch and it have an oil leak in the front of the engine and found the vacuum pump leaking and found the bolts backed out. Have you ever had that happen before?
Need advise on the oil filter housing, it look like I have a leak where it the housing mounts to the block. There is a leak around it, and I found a bolt very lose, what can I expect by removing the four 8 mm bolt and replace the gasket. Please advise 🙏
It’s super easy to replace that gasket, however there is 4 bolts, and 1 stud with has the starter wiring harness mounted to it. You’ll need to remove that to get it off.
Why is it that Ford, or any of the other manufacturers for that matter, do not issue recall's for these obvious mistakes in design and engineering?! Customers pay $90k for a truck and have to put up with this?! Great channel and appreciate the info from you and AROD!! Sad that it is necessary...
It’s all a money racket. Thanks man!
Well, who's going to stop them? Definitely not any politicians, and people keep buying them.
ummm ...... money
what they said, money, and recalls are also mainly for something that can get you seriously hurt like an air bag recall or seatbelt recall, so if your truck is leaking oil ford's gonna think "well that's not gonna kill you" and theyre not gonna spend the extra money on that kinda recall, companies are only gonna recall something that will put them in a lawsuit
Because service by far makes more money than sales.
BRO!!! killller thank you, thats awesome
Haha just telling the truth. Thanks man!
Subbed to both. Awesome videos. Check out my 15 PowerStroke
@@FlyingWrenches13 does this apply to a 6.2l gas f350
I have had my 17 F250 6.7 for 11 days. Just found oil leaking from the engine or lower oil pan. Thankfully the truck came with a 100,000 mile warranty or I’d be out a few thousand.
I'm new to diesels and the 6.7. learning lots about diesels and your videos are great. thanks man.
Thank you!!!
You work at a dealer?
@@FlyingWrenches13 No Sir, I drive commercially hauling campers all over the US. I currently have a '19 F250 6.7 Powerstroke. Love it, but starting to look at the 450s!
Thanks!
Thanks for the comment and support!! Hope you had a merry Christmas
What a great channel this is. I have a 2016 450 and it has just developed a leak. A small one. It isn't even dripping on the ground yet. I only knew about it because my dog chased a cat under it and came out with an oil slick on his shoulders. I haven't discovered where it's leaking yet, but now I have a few ideas of where to look. Keep up the good work!
Awesome video, I have a 2017 and looks like they must have went back to the gasket!
As a tech, it doesn't matter what I'm working on. I only use Toyota's FIPG or "The Right Stuff" by permatex (who I think might have copied the Toyota formula.) Both are so good that they will seal well even if the surfaces are somewhat dirty, oily, etc. The Toyota sealer is way expensive and not nearly as readily available, so in recent years, I've primarily used "The Right Stuff" in the small caulking gun compatible size.
You're 100% right. the Toyota FIPG is the best. You will have dirty fingers for a week tho!!!!
Once I discovered the right stuff in the early 2000s, that's all I use on anything that I really need to be sealed well. No regrets
Exactly, it works because it’s urethane, not silicone.
The right stuff black, from what I understand, is the loctite 5900, same as ta357.
How in the heck do you have fewer than 6k subs!?! You give amazing advice and info to Ford guys. I'm a Ram guy, but respect your mechanical acumen. #subbed!
Thank you!!!
I wish I would have seen your channel a year ago. I made the mistake of trading my perfectly good 2002 F250 7.3L Powerstroke for a new 2016 F350 6.7L Powerstroke. Then last summer it started leaking oil substantially. The local Ford dealer initially diagnosed the issue as a leaking vacuum pump assembly. After teo months of waiting for parts, they made the repair and the day I drove it home, the leak was worse than it had ever been. Oil running everywhere after the 6 mile drive home. Puddles of oil, not just drips. After returning to the dealership, they then said it was the front cover leaking. The two repairs cost me over $4,000 and the truck was five months out of warranty. It only had 65,000 miles on it. Ford would not contribute one single cent to helping with this repair cost. Have been a Ford truck guy since 1973 but this is the last Ford I'll ever own.
I appreciate all your excellent advice, wish I would have seen it sooner!
Great idea on the upper pan. I remember PTT filming that RTV video in my driveway 🤣. I agree with PTT that needed to be said. I was told day one at the dealership never use black rtv on diesels. I always had a tube of gray in my gun.
Thanks! Haha yeah I think it holds up a lot better!
I have a 2017 F250 with a bad oil leak,most shops in my area don’t guarantee fixing the oil leak.
Thanks for your 3 tips.
Did you fix the leak yet? I’m having the same issue
I did a video on my channel replacing the lower oil pan on a 2015 Powerstroke. It’s crazy how many of these trucks we work on and you wonder why they did not get it right in the first place! Nice video man!
Great video and awesome info!!! 👍👍👍👍👍
Fabulous content! I am a private mechanic and do my share of 6.7L PS maintenance/ repairs.
Very helpful videos! My '17 f250 just recently started leaking oil. Thanks man! Now I have a place to look before dropping it off to the dealer
Thank you!
Dude, you have a great channel. Can’t believe you don’t have more subscribers.
Thank you! Tell RUclips’s algorithm that hahaha
I will agree, I think the RTV with high crankcase pressures is asking for trouble. Somebody has said they went back to a gasket with the 2021s? Haven't confirmed with the manual yet.
It’s a press style gasket on the 21 upper pans, which I loved when I first seen them. Butttt they siliconed the front cover 🤦🏼♂️ it’s like they just want the engine to leak haha
I had leak at the vacuum pump, the bolts backed out. Put a new seal in with some locktite and she's good. I know it's a common problem and I actually saw it on RUclips, couldn't have been one of PTT AROD'S videos as well. 👍
I am subscribed to this brother's channel because his expert. And bean doing this for a time and times.
I have the non filter ccv on my 18'. I have 115k on it and no pressure from the oil fill cap. Should I still change the ccv? Is there a different service interval for these as opposed to the filter tyep? Should i change it regardless to prevent an oil leak or keep going and keep checking for pressure?
Thanks!
I had the same concern. When I was at about 110k a popular guy told me no pressure, it's fine. A friend of mine is in charge of 900+ trucks for ComEd and he told me I should change it asap. He recommended even if there is no pressure to change it no later than 100k miles. At 150k I had no leaks and no pressure. At my 150k oil change I used Hot Shot secrets stiction eliminator and my truck was making a weird noise and while trying to locate the noise I notice it had developed an upper pan seep. I changed the vent right away. It spilled a bunch of oil while removing it. I am not sure if that is normal with a good vent or only when it is done doing it's job. My recommendation would be to change it. I am not sure if the stiction remover caused the leak/seep or if it was the vent. Next time I will change mine before 100k to be safe. Good luck.
You Are Right About using the CORRECT silicone on disel engs
Thanks for the tips,Tips, the 6.7 upper oil pan leaks,I have a 2016 f250 6.7,I have had my pan replace 1 time had it off 4 times,now going for the 5th time,this time now out of my pocket @2260.$,Im just now ordering the 2011 oil pan,going to use the Ta-31 selant.Thanks KF.
Thanks for the tips Bro. I have a 2015 F550 6.7l that I have a lot of oil coming out of the top engine valley like if it was shooting out of the turbo.
I have replaced just as many upper oil pans leaks on 2011 as much as any other year models because the gaskets get rocked hard and leak. When it comes to using silicone for sealing I have always used the 7.3 silicone because it’s just the best.
I’ve done some too, but most of the time they have 250k+ miles on them before they start leaking. I most certainly agree on the silicone though. Ta-31 is the way to go.
2016 350 constantly hot oil smell. Had he upper and lower pan changed 2 weeks later same thing !
Change the CCV box that he talks about in this video. The 2019 number is FC3Z 6A785-F. That will get you the filter less CCV box Crank Case Vent box but I know it’s been updated to newer numbers since but at least that number will get you a filter less box. Or just change the filter in your box every time you do the fuel filters which should be done at least every 20k. Also start changing your oil at least every six months and use a good quality oil. I switched to Rotella T6 and it seems to be doing well. Also change your air filter frequently especially if you are driving in dusty conditions. Hope this helps.
Hate that there's no recall or TSB on this. Thanks for the tip on the 2011 pan, I'm on my 2nd failure (first was at 33,000 kms, now the 2nd at 148,000 kms). Thinking the culprit is the CCV filter? Do you happen to have the PN for the 2011 pan? Would you recommend re-sealing the front cover as well while Ford has the oil pan off?
I know this is a older video but my 22 with 33k miles is in the shop with a oil leak. I was changing my oil and found a leak on the engine above the filter. They just confirmed rear main seal leak, no excessive crank case pressure. Was have extremely hard down shift is tow haul from 3-2 and 2-1. After a few times in and they heard me say tow haul then they figured out about a TSB for exactly that. Reprogrammed my TCM and truck shifts way better now. They said it only would affect the tow haul mode but swear the truck shifts better all the way around. Anyway I think that hard shifting is what caused it to leak. When I say hard shifting I mean 20k pound trailer and feels like holy Jesus the transmission just left the conversation!
Quick question I’m new to diesels and I have a new 22 6.7 ps and I was curious where the new box is located and is there any maintenance that needs to be done on it?
Great video! Yeah the new style 2020 CCV box is empty. I took mine apart and looked inside. A neat piece of engineering.
Thank you!
What’s the part number?
Very helpful. Great to listen to experience.
I have oil dripping above the oil filter in the area of the what looks like the starter on a 2011 6.7 diesel. It looks like it runs down the bell housing seam and collects on top of the middle of the oil pan.
Will a rear engine seal show signs of oil above the oil filter by the starter?
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Just came across your channel. Great videos simple short and to the point! Great work keep them up. Thinking about getting me a 6.7 my self 13 model
With the education of experience.
I recommend. Don’t do it.
Stay with gas motor. If you are buy a ford truck.
@@garylong7096 I never buying another diesel. Too many problems and Ford will not correct them.
Thanks for another 6.7 video I like my early 12 a little more
That old 7.3L Silicone is AMAZING Stuff.
Best, toughest Silicone made!!!
Is the early ccv box prior to 17 without filter the same as the 20 box without the filter? Or better baffles in the late one?
Hello Mayson, I have a 2019 F450 and I just had to have the Turbo replaced at 48,000 miles, The Tec mentioned that he saw some oil in the turbo housing ( I believe it was on the exhaust side) could this have been caused by a clogged crankcase filter?? Thanks Paul
Great tips. I’ve already replaced the turbo on my 2018 with the new superseded part. CCV filter is next. I’ll take your advice & get the newer all in one part. Fingers crossed I don’t need to replace the upper pan, since i’d have to figure out which kid i’m gonna sell to afford it. Thanks for putting this together.
Just delete the CCV all together. The block off kit is like $50 and comes with a vent hose. Never have another issue guaranteed.
Has anyone tried loctite 511 anaerobic flange sealant on the later pans without the oring seal? It seems to be a good alternative as excess doesn't harden eliminating the possibility of clogged oil passages or pump screens.
Thanks. I have this leak issue and will upgrade my 2017.
I have a 21 250, with the ccv is there a filter I have to service or is it something is dont have to worry about
Do you have part numbers and do you have to remove the engine to do an oil pan replacement?
Does that upgraded ccv box need to be replaced at some point or not?
hey Thanks for all the tips I have a question On a 2011 6.7 I have a oil leak that look like its on the top rear of the engine but I can't see were it is any Idea
I just did my 2013 6.7 upper pan, but I don't have oil pressure. Confirmed no pressure sensor is fine, no oil movement into the filter. Was there a priming procedure I missed? I didn't have the correct engine hoist brackets, so I just rigged up something to hold it from the front case. Could that have damaged the oil pump?
Quick question, i saw your video about the CCV filter and tried to change mine.
Its a 2017 but it looks like it has a sealed filter, you said it started in 2019.
Is there any way a 2017 could have wound up with one of the sealed units?
Good video. Very informative
Question if I need to get my truck diagnosed can a take it to ford and they diagnose every oil doing the diagnostics
What production date would be an example of a late build 2019? My 2019 has the box without the bolts on top so I’ll assume that’s the good box? Would anything past 06/2019 be a late build 2019?
My 2017 has never leaked a drop of anything. All original, over 125k on it, and the only thing it ever drops is water when the AC is on. In fact, my only fear is the CP4 failing before I can install the disaster prevention kit. With an EGR delete, I expect the engine to be solid for a million miles or more. If it does start leaking I will keep this tip in mind though, thanks.
You seriously think that your engine isn’t supposed to leak ever? Seals leak eventually between 100-200k and that’s how it is on all cars doesn’t matter.
@@AndrewKidd14145 Ah, somebody who doesn't do maintenance. I have had Harley's go over 200k without seal failure (Evo engines). Had a Dakota or two with no leaks over 150k. Had two 1995 Rangers with no leaks. One was a 2.3L I4, one was a 3.0 V6. The I4 had 363k wheb a guy hit and flipped me (rolled twice). The other had 312k when a 700cc quad fell out of a truck and hit it so hard it bent a frame rail.
So yes, you CAN prevent leaks. The bigger thing here is that nowhere did I say an engine never leaks or that it won't given enough miles. You inferred that on your own.
@@GuretoSefirosu I’m a tech, rubber gaskets sweat what you do doesn’t matter. It will leak at the mileages I say. Data from millions of other cars say so.
You got lucky on those cars and got the good ones.
@@AndrewKidd14145 The only vehicle I own that has EVER leaked, is my Harley. This is due to a bad design. They use a metal ball that, when oil pressure stops, seats and is supposed to prevent the flow of oil from the oil tank (up by the rear seat) into the crankcase. The thing is, if ANYTHING gets between the ball and seat, the crankcase fills and it starts leaking opil through the crankcase breather. I have thought about putting a 90deg "off" valve in the hose between the tank and crankcase, but it terrifies me to think I'd forget to open it and ride off...
Also, I just checked my 6.7 above and below. No wet spots or anything. 135k. Going in for the oil/filter change soon. Maybe I am lucky, but I go way beyond filters and oil. I do engine and cabin air, spark plugs when I had gas engines, transfer case, transmission, differential fluids, brake fluid, coolant (both of them on this truck) at regular intervals. I also try to clean the engine and panels that cover it. Looks good and prevents excess heat. Oh, and I run the HECK out of my trucks. I have been 5,000mi in the past two months! Letting them sit is what I believe damages them more.
@@GuretoSefirosu you’re a good owner!
אלוף מסביר יפה מאוד סרטון הדרכה מעולה
Where can I get one of those metal prep wipes? Do you have a part number?
Very good video thank you
Have the addressed this on the newer model 6.7’s?
Great video. Thank you buddy
What are your thoughts on Right Stuff RTV?
Love my powerstoke but seriously considering getting rid if it because of this isse. 46k miles and it is in the shop right now for another warrantied upper oil pan. On top of that the dealer never wants to repair it because they say its not leaking bad enough. Makes you feel great to spend 65k on a truck and the dealer tell you its “weeping” and they only fix “leaks”!!
Yeah I get that. Most dealers are doing that because there are sooo many of them leaking right now it’s hard to keep up. Once resealed properly though it shouldn’t leak again!
Do you see any common issues with the ccv delete? I currently have the updated box but in order to install a full piping kit the ccv needs to be gone since the return line will no longer exist.
Zero issues, only positives. Get rid of it. If you have the sensor on the tube, keep it plugged in.
I would love to get the new CCV box that doesn't need filter replacement. I have a 2017 f250 6.7 powerstroke. Do you have the part number for the new box or a specific name for the new box?
FC3Z-6A785-F
Good stuff buddy!
Why dose my 2012 have the baffle not the filter box if it’s the old version. I’ve owned the truck for 9 years. And how could I tell if I have the o ring pan for sure. What are the cut off dates for the mid years.
I have a 6-7 2011 I've changed the oil feed line cuz it seems like the oil is coming from the top down and it was leaking from there cuz it was making a pool in the valley and before the turbo sits I still have a leak and it's coming from the top also my crankcase filter does not unscrew it's completely sealed I had one mechanic tell me that it's probably that I have 221,000 mi on my 2011 6.7 powerstroke is there any thing you can tell me about the six seven that can help me out fixing my oil leak
There is several places oil could be leaking on the top of that engine. If it’s still pooling up in the valley you most likely have a leak from turbo area. Add some oil dye to it and retest with a black light.
When you do a delete on a 19’F-350 is it good to delete the crankcase filter?
Thanks Fly. But that one problem I never had. Oil leaks. My problems
We’re, 2011, 6.7 . Needed exhaust cooler replacement cost about
10,000.00 to fix. And my 2013, 6.7.
Spun its main bearings at 28,000 miles. Ford wanted 25,000.00 dollars, for a generation 3, 6.7.
So l traded both in for a 2022 f350
7.1, gas motor. And got a 2022
International CV, for my dump truck.
Will a 2011 pan work on my 2017 6.7
Will the ccf blow the seal out of the turbo
Love your videos! You never mention at what mileage intervals (generally) do these oil leaks begin to appear ? Thanks
I have the original oil separator on my 2015 6.7. I don't have any pressure in system when opening oil cap but I do have a front or pan leak. Do I need to replace my original oil separator and if so can I replace it with the newer one. My dealer said my original doesn't have a filter in it either.
Is the CCV box / baffle change out doable without lifting the cab? My ‘17 6.7 leaks and I’m looking to get the pan done- thanks for these tips. At the same time I want to convert to the baffle - I saw your previous video and when I found the leak I changed the filter… still leaks. :(
So I just bought a new ccv box and hose today. I broke my old hose and have no idea if the box has ever been replaced. My question to you is, with these new updated boxes, how often do we change service/change them?
does the oil pan replacement trick work on a 2014 f250 powerstroke turbo diesel
I have a 2021 f250 super duty diesel are you saying the 2011 will fit the 2021?
bad taste in the mouth doesn't come from the leaks. Bad taste in the mouth comes from not making stuff to prevent it and making it in a way that is so complicated and expensive to fix it. Leaking seam? 10 dollars for new silicone 2500 dollars to get to it and put it back together.
I have a 2012 that was built in 01/12 is it safe to say I have the upper oil pan with the built in gasket?
Whoa good tip. If someone were to get rid of the ccv, would that hurt the turbo in anyway?
Hey brother I just dropped off my 16’ for y’all to do this on. Since I’m paying for it can you please see about getting a 2011 pan for it? I’ll be happy to pay the up charge If you say it will fix it for good. This is the 4th re seal I’ve had but wanted to try y’all bc I know y’all are the best. I knew about the o ring pan on the earlier trucks but never knew it was possible to retrofit it. Thanks man
My problem is not with the upper pan, but I have oil in the valley. I did a CCV delete a couple of years ago. I ran the hose over the top of the master cylinder, down to the frame and back to the rear axel to avoid the stink from the fumes. Well, over time and not tying the hose up properly, it developed a sag acted like a P-trap in a sink. This last winter I acted stupid and idled it excessively in the cold weather. When I tried to get back on the road again, i got about fifteen miles and it looked like i was fogging for mosquitoes. When i pulled over, the tail pipe was coated with and dripping oil. On the way home it stopped smoking. But i found that i had gone through 2.5 quarts of oil. Thats when I discovered the blockage in the CCV bypass hose. I also pulled off the hot and cold side pipes (Pusher) and they were both very oily. That's when I discovered the oil in the valley. I cleaned out everything, topped off the oil and took it for a drive. It's been working fine but im still getting oil in the valley. Im gonna sop up all the oil, degrease it and use some dye to find the problem. My question is, is it possible for oil to get into the valley through where the fuel pump mounts?
Ever solve this?
Yeah. I quit idling it in cold weather. Problem cured itself.
So does the new crankcase “filter” need to be replaced every so often or is it a lifetime thing that never clogs or wears out. I was thinking about a ccv reroute because of the filters getting clogged but maybe if I just switch boxes I won’t have to. What are your thoughts about a ccv reroute. Does it hurt the turbo or engine in anyway ?
Ccv reroute is the way to go honestly but swapping out the box for the one without a filter will keep you from having to worry about it also.
Can I do this on a 2015 6.7. I have oil leaks on the front side. Was told it is the front main leaking. Help please.
Front crank seal is a small job compared to having the front cover or upper pan resealed. If that is what’s causing your leak it should be a few hour repair for any shop. I will say though it’s most likely leaking from the vacuum pump mounted right above the crank pulley. The bolts are notorious for backing out causing it to leak. Most of the time you can just tighten them up to stop it.
Help! You mentioned in one of your previous oil leak videos that the 2011 - 2016 powerstrokes (I have a 2015 F350 V8 6.7L 4WD DRW) had a crankcase with no filter but that it could still pressure up? Was hoping this video would talk about that a little bit. I have small oil leaks, but like you said, I don't want to fix the leaks without first determining any issues regarding the crankcase. Can you write any recommendations regarding how I can determine if the crank case is the issue in my example and if it is, do I just replace it (I think i remember you saying it was sealed or something)? Any assistance is appreciated.
You can check your crankcase pressure by pulling the oil cap with the engine running. It shouldn’t have much pressure. A lot of the time the separator will become swole on the top when it becomes clogged.
Can I used the 2011 oil pan on a 2018 6.7
Thank you
I have the 2012 , how do I tell if it’s an early or late build ?
Check the build date on driver door sticker. I’m not sure exactly what date they changed but if you’ll post your build date in here I’ll check it tomorrow at work.
@@FlyingWrenches13 October 2011 .Thanks for your time.
Sticker on Door says October 2011 👍
It’s an early build for sure then! Anytime man!
@@FlyingWrenches13
Good news.I’m learning my way around the 6.7 thanks to you and Arod . Saving time and money when possible. Next project is the bottom plastic oil pan which leaks. I have the steel oil pan from Ford house and the number 31 Ford oem Grey sealant. Ford parts says no gasket. Should I find a gasket or go without one on the new steel oil pan . Hate to have to do it twice. Thanks
To replace the upper oil pan what shop manual do you suggest to get ??
You shouldn’t really need one but if your going to use something, PTS, Mitchell, or prodemand will work.
216,000 miles on my 2011 f250. Doesn’t leak or use a drop of oil between changes. I don’t like the plastic drain plug but change to a new one with every oil change. Does the new style CCV Box need changing every 50k or is it permanent?
Loctite 509 on every gasket job. No leaks guaranteed ! Hard to separate the parts if you ever need to if you put too much though ! Used on all high end cars .
Did Ford do a update for the old trucks for the CV filter? I looked and our 2016 doesn't have bolts. Looks like a sealed unit. But we got the truck 2020 with 21k and we didn't have the dealer do anything to it. Unless the prior owner did but at 21k unless he had an issue or one of the service trips they just did it for him. Idk
Does this 2011 pan fit a 2016 6.7
be looking for that - thank's
Thanks for the content
my 2017 came with sealed box...small leak for a while and now finding out that it is $$ repair...the thing is I do not feel any pressure at the oil fill and was wondering if my sealed CCV needs replacing...if you have a leak due to the CCV box shouldnt you be able to detect pressure by putting you hand over the oil fill tube?..
Thanks for the tip on using the 2011 oil pan part. My Jan./2019 build has the non serviceable CCV box. Is there still a recommended replacement interval for this style CCV box? Have you found them to still clog up around a certain mileage?
I haven’t seen any without the filter clog. Once you have the updated box, you shouldn’t have to do anything else. That box will last the life of the vehicle.
@@FlyingWrenches13 Trying to clear up the mud in my mind: if the CCV box does not have bolts to take the box apart, this is the non-filter version, right? Mine is a 2017 build without bolts on the CCV box.
@@claytonl4628 if it doesn’t have bolts then it is the non serviceable one.
@@FlyingWrenches13 thank you!
Can’t go wrong with a rod. He’s been working on my truck for years now. 200k and going strong on my 6.7. Having him put a dCR on my truck in January!
When my pan starts leaking (it’s a 14) probably going to take this advice and try to find the 11 pan.
Where is Aarod based out of.?
@@deucenine4life813arod is in detroit michigan area. he’s worth the drive, especially for a big job. if you want an intro lmk
Does the 2011 fit on a 2014 f350?
I have a 2017 F350 DRW. I believe the 2020 upgraded non-filter oil separator part number is PC3Z6A785A. Is this correct?
What bland of gasket do you recommend for the upper oil pan ?
Ford
I have a 18 king ranch and it have an oil leak in the front of the engine and found the vacuum pump leaking and found the bolts backed out. Have you ever had that happen before?
That was good! Information
Need advise on the oil filter housing, it look like I have a leak where it the housing mounts to the block. There is a leak around it, and I found a bolt very lose, what can I expect by removing the four 8 mm bolt and replace the gasket. Please advise 🙏
It’s super easy to replace that gasket, however there is 4 bolts, and 1 stud with has the starter wiring harness mounted to it. You’ll need to remove that to get it off.
@@FlyingWrenches13 thank you I found it about 3 am got it fix can't thank you enough
Great video
Thank you!
Subscribed. Great content