This is phenomenal. Whatever you charge people…is worth it. I have never seen a mechanic take this much interest in making solutions rather than making money off of common problems.
@@DavesAutoCenterCentervillequick question, what do you think about the Mercedes m278 and 157 engines? I’ve heard a lot of slack about them but I’ve also heard pretty good things about them, me and lots of people would love a review and period corrections history!
This channel and Dave's knowledge and interests in finding problems is absolutely mind blowing! This is my favorite channel on here because Dave knows his stuff!
Lets give Dave more credit, hes just more than a mechanic for the normal people that don't understand. He is an engine rebuilder not an engine overhauler. Engine rebuilder is when you alter to new specifications which requires engineering knowledge that allows hims to explain it and make it sound easier to the public and to Overhaul is to bring it back to the original manufacturer specifications what your original mechanic does with less knowledge and goes by the manual. People..... There is a difference 🙌
Well either way both types of mechanic need a LOT more data floating around in their brains than the average mechanically inclined individual. I ran into a mechanic that primarily worked on motorcycles and the things he knew absolutely blew me away when it came to mechanics in general.
That's all BS for me , just becouse somebody uses aftermarket overpriced / reengineered parts is still rebuilder / over hauler . Engineering vital engine parts is much more involved , you need much more resources , with all respect for Dave !
I have $250 a month cable and Wi-Fi bill plus extra apps, Hulu, Netflix and a few others probably $400 a month and I find your little 20 or 30 minute videos that are free way more entertaining love what you do keep on doing
Haven’t heard someone say they still have cable in a while? Why do u keep and pay for streaming services too? Does cable still have exclusive access to certain shows?
I've never owned or operated anything diesel, but I truly appreciate the passion behind their work, and the incredible work ethic. Not only that, Dave always gives us a masterclass on how you should lead a team. Appreciation, respect, clear expectations. I am HOOKED!
Watching these videos makes me wish I had stuck with this industry in my late teens, early 20s. The need for this level of work is at an all time high and you’ll never be short of work.
I have a 6.0 Ford. I went 850,000 miles before the lifter failed. I am a firm believer in an additive to the oil. I use Lucas, and with 5,000 mile oil changes, and my additive, I Believe that's what helped the motor survive as many towing miles as it did. You need clean oil, as quickly as you can on start up. Dry starts just shortens the life of the motor. Keep up the hard work Dave!
Ive been working on Powerstrokes for a little over a year mainly 6.7s and honestly RARELY come across the symptoms you mentioned. Many oil changes turbos upper oil pans and full engine reseals, I have NEVER first off heard any clacking noises after an oil change or seen a 6.7 lifter explode sending needle bearings through the motor like the 6.0s. The early 11- mid 12 years the tappets in the lifters spun and fail but NEVER has ruined a camshaft, had one recently pushrod came off the rocker arm and was STILL running fine. Actual big reason is people LACK MAINTENANCE never have seen a 6.7 bottom end spun a bearing even with ccvs that internally go bad and suck/burn oil didn’t ruin an engine. Ive seen 300k 6.7s and work trucks for asphalt companies high idle times and rarely have issues. If there is anyone to blame for engine failures its owners who dont keep up with maintenance schedules, repairs and abuse them with tunners so cant blame engineers if they’re not intended be taken care of and for proper use.
I have seen a few bottom end failures . I read a few articles about the higher incidence of spun bearings in my region, colder climates/northeast likely due to overly tight bearing clearances which have now been re-engineered, which is why for specifies 10/30 syn oil . While I too have seen long durability from most of my my 6.7 fleet. I have also seen my share of fuel system failures (cp4 pumps), various oil leaks, some rocker arm failures, emissions issues, EGR plugging, wiring harness (green wires) and fuse box corrosion, crankcase filter plugging, injector clamp failures, I even had one with broken crank/cam timing gears (probably from impact gun use). I think most of the internal engine issues could have been prevented with better oil change practices and higher quality oils.
It is great that you take the time and use common sense to make things better. It is never a good idea to starve an engine, no matter the amount of time or how good the oil may be. Keep up the good work!!!! Mike
He explains things well , gets to the point , clearly loves it , always training the young guys . What a great shop To be in if your young and up and coming
Dave, I always tried to explain the difference between an engine builder and an engine assembler - most people don't get it, of the ones that do some would stop by, or call; "Mike, that thing uses so much less fuel, has more power, is smoother and quieter than it's ever been!" or, "I went to the track last weekend, the cars that used to run with me or just get away from me are Way back in my rear view!" All the time in reworking poor designs, checking everything, doing it right meant more than the money when I heard those. When you love what you do. Some people understand, most don't Nicely done, Dave
This guy is awesome. I have never heard anyone talk about auto machining and fixing problems like he does. He's a walking, talking automotive genius. Engineers today seem to make everything so complicated, and you look at how to simplify their screwups.
I'm an old chemical engineer, I was green in 1981. I was lucky to work right out of college with an old engineer, Joe Pedjac, who had not been to college. One of his main jobs was to work with young engineers like me and teach them how to actually do stuff that works. I worked under Joe for 3 years and it was great. Joe grew up on a small farm and he was amazingly creative and practical. Dave seems to be the same type of man as my now-passed teacher and friend. RIP Joe Pedjac, Rosebush Michigan.
The engineers working with paper and computerized drafting most of them wouldn't know a torque wrench from a spark plug socket and I'm sure he knows the 6.4 engine was a totally different disaster they broke crankshafts and pulled wrist pins out of pistons not to mention you had pull the cab off the truck to change a injector towards the rear of the engine I'd rather have a old 12 valve Cummins than any FORD or Duramax engine
I have a Ford 6.8L V10 gasser in a 1997 Class C motorhome. Whenever I put the vehicle into storage, I remove the fuel pump fuse so the next time i start the engine, it will crank without fuel. When starting the next time, I crank the engine for about 45 seconds and figure that's enough time to get the crankshaft, cylinders & cams lubricated before replacing the fuel pump fuse and starting the engine. And you bet, whenever I change the oil (every 3500 mi), I fill the NAPA gold (Wix) oil filter with oil. Engine has 80K miles on it, and burns zero oil. Thank you Dave - this video confirms my '78 BSME intuition that I haven't been wasting my time!
Wow Dave you are truly an old school mechanic with passion. You remind me of a guy that taught me how to rebuild my first Chevy 250 in-line six engine 42 years ago. I used plastic gauge on all of the bearings to get perfect oil clearance . Bored it 30 over . New pistons/rings added a quart of marvel, mystery oil to my regular oil. The engine out lasted the truck. As you know 1969 Chevy pickups had a rust problem. I enjoy your channel and you passion to make engines better. Mr Fowler
Hi Dave!! Just wanna say your RUclips channel is such a blessing for me who is shopping for a good truck and watching your video is teaching me a lot. I don't know much about cars but watching your video helps me and many others on what to look for when purchasing a used truck. Brand new trucks these days are way too expensive soo going the used route is the only way for me.....and knowing what I know because of you helps me be confident on what to look out for. I wish your shop was closer to me. Glad to see a honest mechanic having soo much success. Thanks Dave!!!
This guy is a true professional. No BS and is asking all of the correct questions followed by coming up with a proven way to remedy problems created by Engineer Johnny. Looking forward to the second part of this video and see what his findings are as well as his thoughts on how to correct the problem. I’ve read a lot of horror stories on catastrophic engine failures where owners are getting screwed over by Ford. Not something you want to find out after spending $85,000 plus on a new truck. Hence the reason I’ll never sell my 2002 7.3 PS.
As a retired certified CAT&CUMMINGS knuckle buster what you just showed is why they need to take the BOX OF CRAYOLA AWAY FROM THE DESIGNING ENGINEERS!!! For ever turn that oil takes causes RESISTANT!!! EXCELLENT VIDEO that shows start up problems then add in the RESISTANT and you have the RECIPE FOR FAILURE!!! The old 7.3 POWER STROKE which was a INTERNATIONAL ENGINE was far SUPERIOR!!!
With the new engineers it seems that they have lost their common sense of basic principles which this is the end result. Glad you were able to identify and fix this problem. Awesome work!
@@Broman-es4sx Guess you’re right. I have a 1947 Greyhound bus that has millions of miles on it and it runs just fine. It was made back when everything was designed and built to last. Thanks!
@@Broman-es4sx planned obsolescence is a real thing. There is always at least one engineer in the group that their job is to design these things to last to a certain point and that’s it with most products that we buy most of the stuff is owned by one big Corporation and their take is you might not buy another piece of crap from us but you’re gonna buy it from another brand that they own as well and if not, that’s the chance they’re willing to take I’ll tell you one place they don’t have an engineer dedicated to planned obsolescence is Bridgeport, Connecticut, machining Mills, and lathes ….they are just as good if not better than they were decades ago !
Total agreement Dave, you are spot-on. I was taught many years ago that needle bearings are good for intermittent loads & LOW, (NOT HIGH) RPMS. (ie; The trunnion/output shaft of an old-style steering gear. Shock loads, mininal RPMs & frequent directional changes) I never imagined them holding-up inside a lifter, way back when. Bucket-shimmed valves are great, (used in high-revving bikes), but are a pain to adjust. Luckily they don't need frequent adjustment if done right. Keep up The Great Work Brother🙏 (Not just great vehicle repair videos)👍
Excellent common sense by Dave, someone who cares about his reputation and customers, looking for a solution to cold starting oil starvation. Thinking an oil accumulator system of adequate oil volume would pressurize the engine IF: given adequate TIME (delay) before the starter motor was engaged. Also-QUESTION: How long does an oil pressure accumulator actually hold its oil pressure when the engine isn’t running?? Quite a few variables to consider with an oil pressure accumulator system as well, just like the engine’s oil passageways !! Already looking forward to the next video(s) and thanks for opening Pandora’s Box for everyone Dave !! Let’s design the “Fix” to protect our investments !!
I got a '16 F350 in 2 yrs ago. I was told the engine locked up. Couldn't turn it over at all. The owner didn't want to buy a new engine, so the hunt for a good used one was on the way by him. After 2 yrs of it sitting, the owner told me to pull the engine. When I pulled the starter and found the starter gear was sideways against the flex plate jammed in place. All the sudden the engine turned easily. I put a new starter and batteries on, the engine started right up. It ran for 2 weeks. Then the owner decided to put it back in service. So they put a 20k lb trailer on it and off down the road. 5 miles later the engine quit. Hauled it back, found metal in the fuel system/tank. Did a few diag on it and concluded the injectors were stuck open from metal being in them. Dropped the tank to clean it, put a whole new fuel system in, the whole works. Put an s&s bypass kit on also. Thousands of dollars later, go to start it, won't start. Acting like it's hydrolocking. Looked at it a few days, new starter, batteries, etc. Fuel pressure good, everything looked fine. Pulled the oil filter and cut it open. Found a ton a metal flake in it. I'm like what the****. Instantly figured a bearing is seized or grabbing the crank mimicking the hydrolocking. Now that I seen your video, I'm wondering if the dry starts caused bearing failure. I have no clue what caused everything as the original thought was the engine was locked up two yrs ago. I just can't see how if it was a bearing back then, how'd it unlock and run for two weeks with no noise or indication of anything being wrong. I'm assuming the starter messed up, jammed it, then after sitting two yrs the cp4 came apart and sent metal through the system and caused it to hydrolock and somehow jammed a bearing up enough to break it or something. Or maybe zero oil upon start-up ruined it pretty quickly. Either way, now I'm in search of another engine again. Ford wants $19k for a complete engine that is on backorder currently. Their reman is $8k or so but they said it was an updated engine and several things had to be changed to make it work on the '16. We have a brand new complete fuel system, so I didn't want to spend $19k on the complete one. And none of the local diesel machine shops in okc wants to mess with it. They'll machine the parts individually but none will do a complete teardown/reassembly. Also they all told me they're at least 6 months out. Just roadblocks every direction. The owner doesn't want to trust a salvage engine, which I don't blame him.
If you thought Dave was another guy bragging about how good and beautiful his shop is, and how much better than the others he was, you got it wrong. He's exactly the opposite. And that's what captured my attention as a mechanical lover. He's a humble and competent mechanic, rightfully proud of what he achieved throughout hard labour, willing to share experiences, explaining how complicated things can be easily solved, and above all a "Boss that respects and values his workers" and their efforts to help keep Dave's auto service rolling. Congratulations, Dave. Best wishes to you and your crew from Portugal 🇵🇹.
Wow that is a lot of passage dry. I knew there was some, but never thought it was that much. I have heard many say you don't have to fill the filters anymore, after this I really know better. I always have out of pure habit, I'm old school. Just like I always change the thermostat when I change a water pump. Some vehicles that is major. I will be looking for how you fix this problem. Do not cut yourself short saying someone is smarter than you. You are a genius as far as I'm concerned.
You change your engine and filter. Some people drain the oil when the engine is still warm. They that helps the oil drain out faster. I have always on my own vehicles change out the oil and filter while engine is cold. Let it drain longer and you are getting more of the used oil out of the engine. Your thoughts?
It's really more important that you keep your intervals regardless if you do it hot or cold. The hot oil supposedly frees up contaminates that might be clinging to the motor. Some say let all the oil settle into the pan then drain. Again, it's just a personal preference. Most importantly, change your oil every 5,000 miles.
My Aston Martin DB9 has a function that eliminates this issue. When cold starting, after being left for a long period, the starting procedure is as follows. Floor the accelerator (this prevents the engine from firing) and then crank the engine until the oil pressure light goes out. I do this in three five second bursts in order to not overheat the starter motor. Once the oil pressure light goes out release the accelerator and start the engine as normal, cue glorious V12 exhaust note. Personally, I love the ritual of this start procedure and the knowledge that I am looking after my engine as best I can. Great engineering Aston. Thanks for the video as per usual it expanded my knowledge.
This channel is gonna turn into a wealth of knowledge and earn Dave a lot of money...I cant wait to see all the new toys he buys for the shop! Awesome channel!
I bought my 2002 Dodge Cummins diesel new I've always done my own oil changes one day several years ago I was changing the oil in my truck I'd already drained it an pulled the oil filter when my brother in law came up while i was pre filling my oil filter he laughed at me and said it was a waste of time well 326560 miles later my 5.9 is still purring along strong no major work ever done to the engine ! I'm a firm believer that when you can you prefill your oil filter and you confirmed that right here in this video ! Thanks Dave ! I'm not the smartest nut on the block but I knew this much !
i work for the dealer and customers are very happy with their 6.7 strong powerful and dont have real major problems the oil will sludge if you dont change it can cause issues
I’ve been a diesel mechanic for fourty years and yes, oil pressure buildup has always been an issue. In the 80’s Leyland fitted secondary electric oil pumps to boost supply at startup. I remember a Cummins circular in the 90’s pointing out that most engine wear occurs at startup and very worst when oil is changed, we always pre filled the filters before fitting for this reason.
We used to fit a reserve oil tank that pressurised when the engine ran with a solenoid valve hooked into the ignition , engine start oil ran from the tank to the oil gallery , 40 psi of oil pressure before the engine cranked , the tank depressed used when the ran , , I have seen them fitted onto turbo charged cosworth race engines .
We also had lubrication issues with some of our large diesel engines. The solution to our problem, was the install a pre-lubrication pump. This electric pump operated prior to engine start up. The engine oil pump would take over, after start-up, and shut down the pre-lube pump. This solved our problems.
DAVE , I admire your knowledge, skill & honesty . I am in Australia , I have a 1968 HOLDEN KINGSWOOD HK with a 186 Engine . Very humble , I know , but they raced these 186 Cubic Inch Engines with Triple Carbs , Headers & they raced & beat Ford 351 CI V8's at the Bathurst 500 . I would love you to be able to rebuild my engine to get all the appropriate horse power I could . Wonderful information . Thank you Dave - ROBBIE.
2011 6.7 owner here! Very curious to see your results! I have 300 thousand on the clock and no major issues yet🤞I really appreciate the content it’s very educational. Weirdly enough I hope to have to rebuild mine one day, I must be sick haha
Lol!! You have a 13 year old truck with 300,000 miles and this guy is convincing you that you engine has oiling issues. There are 6.7 engines on the road with a million miles and equipped with a flawed oiling system? Lol
What an excellent observation Dave made with this lubrication system!!! The engines that were/are reliable do NOT have this much VOLUME in the low pressure (suction) side of the system BEFORE it even gets to the pump!!!! And the routing of the lube system on the High pressure side of the system is very convoluted and indirect to the places that the oil needs to go to lubricate the high wear / high pressure areas like bearings and the valve-trane... Ford, has taken a very bad turn with their current equipment... So much of what Ford learned from the past, has seemed to have been lost since the Phoenominal 460's, 430's, 429's , 428's, 427 side-oiler , 390's, 351 Windsor , 351 Cleveland, The Cosworth v-8's, the Pinto engines, all of their inline 6 engines.... The list of sucessful Engines that Ford has created and manufactured are impressive and numerous... Unfortunately, several of the Power-Stroke diesels appear to have completely missed the mark, that Ford established in their past....Some of the Ford diesels (like the 6.0 V-8's) had a large amount of problems that should have been recognized & taken care of BEFORE they went into production... There are aftermarket companies that 'Bullet-Proof' those problematic engines... And apparently, this work was not subsidized by Ford, who originally manufactured these problematic engines... The customers who purchased these vehicles had to cough-up the $5k-$6.5k pricetag of doing this type of work (2016 pricing).... There should have been recalls on all of the 6.0 Litre diesel engines, but somehow, Ford was able to get away with that very poor design... Nobody who manufactures vehicles is perfect... Mistakes can be made, especially with new designs... But they should take the responsibility of covering for their mistakes, by performing recalls. Ford offered No such help for their customers... Ford used to stand for : First On Race Day... Now it stands for : Ford Offers (Their) Recall Disapproval...
Appreciate you being humble about past mistakes ie the little nut or something that went into a new motor. Accidents happen and learning from them is part of the process, I know that myself. It's partly why I get so mad when guys at the shop start cleaning their stall with the compressed air nozzle. Blowing all that crap on the floor with the air nozzle can make its way upward and into an engine (intake or whatever). Also it's easier to just get a broom anyways.
I like the fact that your testing cranking speed to time how long it takes oil to get to where it needs to be, but in real world starting most of the oil galley system is not dry when the engine shuts off much of the system retains oil only on dry start will there be a serious issue like with a new engine this is why we always prime the entire oil system on rebuilt engines I realize the customer does not have the option of priming the system after an oil change and the oil starvation problem on the 6.7 is an issue I have floated the idea of an Eletric priming motor introduced into the system that activates when the ignition is turned on with a start delay long enough to energize the entire oil galley system haven't put that into practice yet but I'm working on it. The reality is some of these designs are made this way on purpose in the name of built in obsolete features that ensure the manufacturer sells allot of parts and replacement engines. Great job explaining this I relate to how you think, there have been so many times over the years in the machine shop business where I just scratch my head and think WHY??
Sir thanks for the information. When I first heard your problem I thought it was cavitation in the system but couldn’t figure where you would get that from. Now that you explained the route the oil takes I do now. Multiple 90 bends. The other things is the pick up pipe if where the pipe joins the block if it’s above the oil level that seal better be perfect or it will draw past and also that length it pick up tube may suck the strainer down to the sump causing starvation and or upset that seal in the pipe That’s my take on it. Look forward to what you are doing on this project so subscribe so not miss it. Thanks Bob.
Stelar! great video. I'm not even a mechanic and this experimentation is very entertaining because someone overengineered an engine and didn't do basic considerations. This is a brilliant video. now going to watch part two
I've worked professionally in the automotive industry for 18 years, and my very first fulltime job out of high school was at Jiffy Lube. Now, everyone is as good as their training, and the environment you "grow up" in a C level tech. Every diesel engine oil change I did I always primed the oil filter, and I also primed gas engines with large oil filters. Not every quick Lube facility is garbage, it's as good as its owners and management
Very interesting video! You did a great job laying out the facts. I was shocked at such a circuitous path the oil must travel. As over engineered as the engine is with excessive parts, I’m surprised they didn’t add a pre-oiler pump to come on prior to the engine starting?
Dave, build your own diesel engine. I’m sure it would sell like crazy!! I just bought a diesel excursion and I’m already stressed about getting in it with my family. Hey, I’ll be a volunteer to test the first engine… put it in my excursion and I’ll test the hell out of it!!!
We worked with RMC to develop the first ETS for our factory. We even developed the fixturing and block offs for the 6.7s. Prototype is still testing engines everyday. Good guys to work with.
Wow! Where my Kia Soul is parked I get a lotta tree shit blowing into that catch all above the engine so it could very well clog up those drains! Now my vehicle is new so no damage yet but I need to check that shit EVERY TIME that I fill up! His knowledge doesn't necessarily only reflect on the specific vehicle he may be discussing. The subject could be applied to many vehicles. This is a perfect example. Thank you, Dave...
Just add 2 quarts to make sure those are full at start up 🤦♂️🤷♂️🤣🤣🤣🤣. Still will be off crank. Sometimes simple things are way easier than being complicated!
Dave is the reason I will be having his shop rebuild both of my trucks engines when they have need. They are both over 120k miles now & still run very well. The rest of the running chassis and body are perfect. The rebuilds, when I determine necessary, will be well worth the cost as opposed to buying a new truck.
I ran a brand new Cat D7 dozer that wouldn't start till the PreOiler had the oil pressure up to full, than it would start on it's own after that. Took about a minute.
Excellent video Dave I've been a mechanic for 50 years built lots of engines it's hard to believe that they have so much capacity to fill on a fire up every internet ever built mostly Dodge I always Prelude the whole motor before ever fire it this looks like a nightmare to me thanks again for the great video
This is really good content, I’d trust your work, I can just tell, curious what kind of oil do you personally like? We have a fleet of 6.7s and run shell 5w40 syn & haven’t ran into any issues. High engine hours 14k…but they never see cold starts because they are constantly running and garaged..probably why they have lasted so long
Unbelievable! I cant wait for-the fix. I may buy a HD ford just to have Dave make it better. “(Ok I do need one , or 4). I hope his son improves on his Dad’s legacy !
The real question is why the hell is every vehicle and engine so overly complicated now days. I sold all my new stuff about 3 years ago. Have all stuff around 2001. That is the peak of simplicity and creature comforts to me. I can open the hood, fix things, understand things and trouble shoot things easily!
Oldest thing I have is a 95 Ford Dually with the 7.3L. Second is my 86 GMC K2500 and 3rd is my 85 Chevy C30 dually. 350 SBC in the 86. 454BBC in the 85. Like you said, simplicity and creature comforts. 👍
Yeah, watching this thinking WTF. The oiling system is on a wild goose chase. Blow any of the seals between the block and oil pan. You lose all oil pressure. Makes not want a 6.7 PSD even more.
First thought Running with air instead of oil .. You prooved my thought...2 possible solutions 1 during starting no fuel for x revolutions 2 electrical oil pump with pressure contact so you can asume your oil is where it needs to be before starting the engine.... Excited for part 2
Wow Dave. Real interesting. At least someone is thinking about the issues. And yes I’ve been watching Steve Morris as well. Very talented. I watched the Wagon run yesterday and I was blown away. Thanks for your knowledge as well 🤩
I have a friend who has had two 6.7's (a 2013 and a 2020) he has put close to a half million miles on them - never had any bearing problems, cam problems or turbo replacements. The most troublesome part on these is the Radiator.
It would be interesting to see how much of the old oil never comes out with an oil change. Kinda like not being able to drain a torque converter on an automatic transmission when you service it...
@earlpreston1043 On several of the older vehicles, the torque converters did have drain plugs so they could also be serviced... Now days, none of the vehicles have servicable torque converters... Instead, they want The customers to come into the dealers, to buy a new vehicle... And so currently, to buy a newer design, means to agree with the ridiculously over-complicated, largely unreliable / ineffective designs, such as this one... And for the people who claimed that they already drove their 6.7 powerstroke diesel enginrs well over 300k. miles, congratulations!!! You now have just recently exceeded the 1/2 way point of my stock 350 Chevy engine in my '77 GMC 3/4 Ton P/U that has exceeded 603k miles!!! The heads and block have never been removed from this 46 Year old vehicle that travels around with a fully loaded bed, and it's often pulling a 5,500 lb.trailer ... I drive it daily, with very few problems... They just don't make them like they used to...
I'm in the UK, and even though the engines are completely different here, I find this channel very interesting and informative and can take away some good advice especially the importance of regular oil changes thank you Dave
The 6.7L powerstroke engines DO NOT have "bad Engineering". This engine has the best modern design from any other manufacturer out there. This is from LACK OF MAINTENANCE and nothing else. The oil drain back problem is OVER EXAGGERATED on the internet, most oil filters have anti drain back values, this is why the engine takes 15 quarts of oil because of all those oil passages, the tolerances are very small in the engine. Those oil passages stay full of oil. Pumping air? How is air getting into the oiling system?
@FlatPlaneCranky Yes, you will get a little bit of air during an oil change, but that's it. It will definitely NOT cause main bearing failure like Dave states in part 2. The test in part 2 is completely fake and false. Engines DO NOT operate in this way
Ngl I’ve been addicted of the content of this channel. Keep it up 👍 real question I recently started changing the oil myself. Does this 9:18 tip about the oif filter being filled up with oil goes for all oil filters on 4 cyl engines?
If you oil filter mounts straight up, yes prefill it , If the filter is on a slant, put as much as you can without it spilling when installing your filter.
The reason this is a controversial topic is because by prefilling the oil filter, you could introduce unfiltered contaminants into the oil system. The way to correctly prefill your oil filter is to plug the clean side (the middle) and fill the filter from the outside, so that all oil is filtered. Prefilling doesn't matter as much on smaller engines because the volume of the filter is smaller and takes less time to fill. In Dave's example, it is definitely important.
My 94 Gmc 1/2 ton 350 had a knock on start up from day one. The service bulletin said replace rod & main bearings or use an oil filter with a check valve. Still running at 188,900
Good job Dave. I have now gone through 2 6.7 power strokes with oil starvation failure. One was after adding Amsoil remote bypass oil filter, yes adding to the volume and distance oil has to travel on cold start up and Amsoil told me to get stuffed for warranty. I now know Fords engineering is not good but AMSOIL compounded the problem. The other was top end worn out right from lash adjusters to rocker arms, the rocker arms actually fell off the tops of the valves and wrecked them too. Between the 2, I spent about $40,000.
This is phenomenal. Whatever you charge people…is worth it. I have never seen a mechanic take this much interest in making solutions rather than making money off of common problems.
Thank you so much! It is an obsession of his. Appreciate you watching.
@@DavesAutoCenterCentervillequick question, what do you think about the Mercedes m278 and 157 engines? I’ve heard a lot of slack about them but I’ve also heard pretty good things about them, me and lots of people would love a review and period corrections history!
That’s the difference between a mechanic and technician.
Gale banks
Now compare him to whiny deboss or mr subaru or all the other charlatan fan boys. He stands out even more next to those clowns.
This is 1000 times better than the Saturday morning car shop shows I’d watch on basic tv as a kid! Thanks for your content!
Glad you enjoy it!
I'm a powertrain engineer, and believe me these videos are fantastic.
This channel and Dave's knowledge and interests in finding problems is absolutely mind blowing! This is my favorite channel on here because Dave knows his stuff!
Wow, thanks!
It's rare to have such a brilliant mechanic or engine builder who is also an excellent communicator.
This guy is elite on every level. From choice of topics, to insight and knowledge to delivery, persona, dynamism and charisma.
For over 50 years I've wondered why they didn't add an electric pre-oil pump.
YEP couldnt agree more
Might make engines a little too durable I think
my hybrid does that
Ford makes their engines to fail so they can make more money from repairs and sales.
Because oil filters have back-flow valves that don't let the oil "drain out" so as soon as the engine spins it starts to build pressure
Lets give Dave more credit, hes just more than a mechanic for the normal people that don't understand. He is an engine rebuilder not an engine overhauler. Engine rebuilder is when you alter to new specifications which requires engineering knowledge that allows hims to explain it and make it sound easier to the public and to Overhaul is to bring it back to the original manufacturer specifications what your original mechanic does with less knowledge and goes by the manual. People..... There is a difference 🙌
Well either way both types of mechanic need a LOT more data floating around in their brains than the average mechanically inclined individual. I ran into a mechanic that primarily worked on motorcycles and the things he knew absolutely blew me away when it came to mechanics in general.
That's all BS for me , just becouse somebody uses aftermarket overpriced / reengineered parts is still rebuilder / over hauler . Engineering vital engine parts is much more involved , you need much more resources , with all respect for Dave !
I have $250 a month cable and Wi-Fi bill plus extra apps, Hulu, Netflix and a few others probably $400 a month and I find your little 20 or 30 minute videos that are free way more entertaining love what you do keep on doing
Haven’t heard someone say they still have cable in a while? Why do u keep and pay for streaming services too? Does cable still have exclusive access to certain shows?
OMG 😀
99% of the people HATEING on this video don’t even drive a powerstroke or have ever OWNED a diesel 🤣🤣🤣 keep up the good work Dave love the vids
I've never owned or operated anything diesel, but I truly appreciate the passion behind their work, and the incredible work ethic. Not only that, Dave always gives us a masterclass on how you should lead a team. Appreciation, respect, clear expectations. I am HOOKED!
Watching these videos makes me wish I had stuck with this industry in my late teens, early 20s. The need for this level of work is at an all time high and you’ll never be short of work.
I've built 2 engines, 1 car 1 motorcycle, the attention to detail always impresses me. Well done.
I have a 6.0 Ford. I went 850,000 miles before the lifter failed. I am a firm believer in an additive to the oil. I use Lucas, and with 5,000 mile oil changes, and my additive, I Believe that's what helped the motor survive as many towing miles as it did. You need clean oil, as quickly as you can on start up. Dry starts just shortens the life of the motor. Keep up the hard work Dave!
Ive been working on Powerstrokes for a little over a year mainly 6.7s and honestly RARELY come across the symptoms you mentioned. Many oil changes turbos upper oil pans and full engine reseals, I have NEVER first off heard any clacking noises after an oil change or seen a 6.7 lifter explode sending needle bearings through the motor like the 6.0s. The early 11- mid 12 years the tappets in the lifters spun and fail but NEVER has ruined a camshaft, had one recently pushrod came off the rocker arm and was STILL running fine. Actual big reason is people LACK MAINTENANCE never have seen a 6.7 bottom end spun a bearing even with ccvs that internally go bad and suck/burn oil didn’t ruin an engine. Ive seen 300k 6.7s and work trucks for asphalt companies high idle times and rarely have issues. If there is anyone to blame for engine failures its owners who dont keep up with maintenance schedules, repairs and abuse them with tunners so cant blame engineers if they’re not intended be taken care of and for proper use.
I have seen a few bottom end failures . I read a few articles about the higher incidence of spun bearings in my region, colder climates/northeast likely due to overly tight bearing clearances which have now been re-engineered, which is why for specifies 10/30 syn oil . While I too have seen long durability from most of my my 6.7 fleet. I have also seen my share of fuel system failures (cp4 pumps), various oil leaks, some rocker arm failures, emissions issues, EGR plugging, wiring harness (green wires) and fuse box corrosion, crankcase filter plugging, injector clamp failures, I even had one with broken crank/cam timing gears (probably from impact gun use). I think most of the internal engine issues could have been prevented with better oil change practices and higher quality oils.
A year is infantile in experience.
It is great that you take the time and use common sense to make things better. It is never a good idea to starve an engine, no matter the amount of time or how good the oil may be.
Keep up the good work!!!!
Mike
More maintenance, proper oil filters with anti drain back valves. All motors have compromise in designs.
ford dreamer keep working honda civic raisin brean
He explains things well , gets to the point , clearly loves it , always training the young guys . What a great shop
To be in if your young and up and coming
Dave,
I always tried to explain the difference between an engine builder and an engine assembler - most people don't get it, of the ones that do some would stop by, or call;
"Mike, that thing uses so much less fuel, has more power, is smoother and quieter than it's ever been!"
or,
"I went to the track last weekend, the cars that used to run with me or just get away from me are Way back in my rear view!"
All the time in reworking poor designs, checking everything, doing it right meant more than the money when I heard those.
When you love what you do.
Some people understand, most don't
Nicely done, Dave
Appreciate the wisdom!
Not to many shops admit that they dropped something into the motor. You get big props from me bro.
Thanks, we've made mistakes and like to share them so others hopefully don't make the same
This guy is awesome. I have never heard anyone talk about auto machining and fixing problems like he does. He's a walking, talking automotive genius. Engineers today seem to make everything so complicated, and you look at how to simplify their screwups.
I'm an old chemical engineer, I was green in 1981. I was lucky to work right out of college with an old engineer, Joe Pedjac, who had not been to college. One of his main jobs was to work with young engineers like me and teach them how to actually do stuff that works. I worked under Joe for 3 years and it was great. Joe grew up on a small farm and he was amazingly creative and practical.
Dave seems to be the same type of man as my now-passed teacher and friend. RIP Joe Pedjac, Rosebush Michigan.
The engineers working with paper and computerized drafting most of them wouldn't know a torque wrench from a spark plug socket and I'm sure he knows the 6.4 engine was a totally different disaster they broke crankshafts and pulled wrist pins out of pistons not to mention you had pull the cab off the truck to change a injector towards the rear of the engine I'd rather have a old 12 valve Cummins than any FORD or Duramax engine
I have a Ford 6.8L V10 gasser in a 1997 Class C motorhome. Whenever I put the vehicle into storage, I remove the fuel pump fuse so the next time i start the engine, it will crank without fuel. When starting the next time, I crank the engine for about 45 seconds and figure that's enough time to get the crankshaft, cylinders & cams lubricated before replacing the fuel pump fuse and starting the engine. And you bet, whenever I change the oil (every 3500 mi), I fill the NAPA gold (Wix) oil filter with oil. Engine has 80K miles on it, and burns zero oil. Thank you Dave - this video confirms my '78 BSME intuition that I haven't been wasting my time!
Dave people like you are few and far between these days!! Keep up the great work and awesome videos 👍
I appreciate that!
I love to see how Dave pays homage to other guys.
Always learning Dave, just like you said “ Be curious, just like a child. “ Brilliant. Thanks as always.
Wow is all I can say I really wish all auto and engine shops cared this much. You guys are truly professional. Very impressive
Wow Dave you are truly an old school mechanic with passion. You remind me of a guy that taught me how to rebuild my first Chevy 250 in-line six engine 42 years ago. I used plastic gauge on all of the bearings to get perfect oil clearance . Bored it 30 over . New pistons/rings added a quart of marvel, mystery oil to my regular oil. The engine out lasted the truck. As you know 1969 Chevy pickups had a rust problem. I enjoy your channel and you passion to make engines better. Mr Fowler
Great story, we are glad to have you on this channel!
Hi Dave!! Just wanna say your RUclips channel is such a blessing for me who is shopping for a good truck and watching your video is teaching me a lot. I don't know much about cars but watching your video helps me and many others on what to look for when purchasing a used truck. Brand new trucks these days are way too expensive soo going the used route is the only way for me.....and knowing what I know because of you helps me be confident on what to look out for. I wish your shop was closer to me. Glad to see a honest mechanic having soo much success. Thanks Dave!!!
This guy is a true professional. No BS and is asking all of the correct questions followed by coming up with a proven way to remedy problems created by Engineer Johnny.
Looking forward to the second part of this video and see what his findings are as well as his thoughts on how to correct the problem. I’ve read a lot of horror stories on catastrophic engine failures where owners are getting screwed over by Ford. Not something you want to find out after spending $85,000 plus on a new truck. Hence the reason I’ll never sell my 2002 7.3 PS.
Dave keep these videos coming brother! This channel is gonna be big in the near future. Theres tons of valuable info for us gearheads
I appreciate that!
This is one of the best channels out there!!
This is the essence of all work, do it better and better, until perfection without losing yourself along the way. Congratulations
Wow, thank you!
As a retired certified CAT&CUMMINGS knuckle buster what you just showed is why they need to take the BOX OF CRAYOLA AWAY FROM THE DESIGNING ENGINEERS!!!
For ever turn that oil takes causes RESISTANT!!!
EXCELLENT VIDEO that shows start up problems then add in the RESISTANT and you have the RECIPE FOR FAILURE!!!
The old 7.3 POWER STROKE which was a INTERNATIONAL ENGINE was far SUPERIOR!!!
Thanks for the wisdom brother!
With the new engineers it seems that they have lost their common sense of basic principles which this is the end result. Glad you were able to identify and fix this problem. Awesome work!
We are going to do our best to come up with a solution! Thanks for watching
Can't wait to see it!@@DavesAutoCenterCenterville
No they know exactly what they're doing...planned obsolescence
@@Broman-es4sx Guess you’re right. I have a 1947 Greyhound bus that has millions of miles on it and it runs just fine. It was made back when everything was designed and built to last. Thanks!
@@Broman-es4sx planned obsolescence is a real thing. There is always at least one engineer in the group that their job is to design these things to last to a certain point and that’s it with most products that we buy most of the stuff is owned by one big Corporation and their take is you might not buy another piece of crap from us but you’re gonna buy it from another brand that they own as well and if not, that’s the chance they’re willing to take I’ll tell you one place they don’t have an engineer dedicated to planned obsolescence is Bridgeport, Connecticut, machining Mills, and lathes ….they are just as good if not better than they were decades ago !
This content is precious.i could listen to Dave for hours
Thank you
Bring it up more videos, we will watch!
Thank you! Will do!
Total agreement Dave, you are spot-on. I was taught many years ago that needle bearings are good for intermittent loads & LOW, (NOT HIGH) RPMS. (ie; The trunnion/output shaft of an old-style steering gear. Shock loads, mininal RPMs & frequent directional changes) I never imagined them holding-up inside a lifter, way back when. Bucket-shimmed valves are great, (used in high-revving bikes), but are a pain to adjust. Luckily they don't need frequent adjustment if done right.
Keep up The Great Work Brother🙏 (Not just great vehicle repair videos)👍
I learn so much from the man. Hes so knowledgeable
Excellent common sense by Dave, someone who cares about his reputation and customers, looking for a solution to cold starting oil starvation. Thinking an oil accumulator system of adequate oil volume would pressurize the engine IF: given adequate TIME (delay) before the starter motor was engaged. Also-QUESTION: How long does an oil pressure accumulator actually hold its oil pressure when the engine isn’t running?? Quite a few variables to consider with an oil pressure accumulator system as well, just like the engine’s oil passageways !! Already looking forward to the next video(s) and thanks for opening Pandora’s Box for everyone Dave !! Let’s design the “Fix” to protect our investments !!
I got a '16 F350 in 2 yrs ago. I was told the engine locked up. Couldn't turn it over at all. The owner didn't want to buy a new engine, so the hunt for a good used one was on the way by him. After 2 yrs of it sitting, the owner told me to pull the engine.
When I pulled the starter and found the starter gear was sideways against the flex plate jammed in place. All the sudden the engine turned easily. I put a new starter and batteries on, the engine started right up. It ran for 2 weeks. Then the owner decided to put it back in service. So they put a 20k lb trailer on it and off down the road. 5 miles later the engine quit. Hauled it back, found metal in the fuel system/tank.
Did a few diag on it and concluded the injectors were stuck open from metal being in them. Dropped the tank to clean it, put a whole new fuel system in, the whole works. Put an s&s bypass kit on also. Thousands of dollars later, go to start it, won't start. Acting like it's hydrolocking.
Looked at it a few days, new starter, batteries, etc. Fuel pressure good, everything looked fine. Pulled the oil filter and cut it open. Found a ton a metal flake in it. I'm like what the****. Instantly figured a bearing is seized or grabbing the crank mimicking the hydrolocking.
Now that I seen your video, I'm wondering if the dry starts caused bearing failure. I have no clue what caused everything as the original thought was the engine was locked up two yrs ago. I just can't see how if it was a bearing back then, how'd it unlock and run for two weeks with no noise or indication of anything being wrong.
I'm assuming the starter messed up, jammed it, then after sitting two yrs the cp4 came apart and sent metal through the system and caused it to hydrolock and somehow jammed a bearing up enough to break it or something. Or maybe zero oil upon start-up ruined it pretty quickly. Either way, now I'm in search of another engine again.
Ford wants $19k for a complete engine that is on backorder currently. Their reman is $8k or so but they said it was an updated engine and several things had to be changed to make it work on the '16. We have a brand new complete fuel system, so I didn't want to spend $19k on the complete one. And none of the local diesel machine shops in okc wants to mess with it. They'll machine the parts individually but none will do a complete teardown/reassembly. Also they all told me they're at least 6 months out. Just roadblocks every direction. The owner doesn't want to trust a salvage engine, which I don't blame him.
If you thought Dave was another guy bragging about how good and beautiful his shop is, and how much better than the others he was, you got it wrong. He's exactly the opposite. And that's what captured my attention as a mechanical lover. He's a humble and competent mechanic, rightfully proud of what he achieved throughout hard labour, willing to share experiences, explaining how complicated things can be easily solved, and above all a "Boss that respects and values his workers" and their efforts to help keep Dave's auto service rolling. Congratulations, Dave.
Best wishes to you and your crew from Portugal 🇵🇹.
Wow that is a lot of passage dry. I knew there was some, but never thought it was that much. I have heard many say you don't have to fill the filters anymore, after this I really know better. I always have out of pure habit, I'm old school. Just like I always change the thermostat when I change a water pump. Some vehicles that is major. I will be looking for how you fix this problem. Do not cut yourself short saying someone is smarter than you. You are a genius as far as I'm concerned.
You change your engine and filter. Some people drain the oil when the engine is still warm. They that helps the oil drain out faster. I have always on my own vehicles change out the oil and filter while engine is cold. Let it drain longer and you are getting more of the used oil out of the engine. Your thoughts?
It's really more important that you keep your intervals regardless if you do it hot or cold. The hot oil supposedly frees up contaminates that might be clinging to the motor. Some say let all the oil settle into the pan then drain. Again, it's just a personal preference. Most importantly, change your oil every 5,000 miles.
makes sense to me@@44carbine
Sir I really want to thank you for the time you take out of your day to show these things. Please keep making them.
Found this channel couple weeks ago. No BS, no clickbait, no gimmicks. Love it.
Misinformation never had these issues ram 6.7’s Ford’s in my business for a while now
My Aston Martin DB9 has a function that eliminates this issue. When cold starting, after being left for a long period, the starting procedure is as follows. Floor the accelerator (this prevents the engine from firing) and then crank the engine until the oil pressure light goes out. I do this in three five second bursts in order to not overheat the starter motor. Once the oil pressure light goes out release the accelerator and start the engine as normal, cue glorious V12 exhaust note. Personally, I love the ritual of this start procedure and the knowledge that I am looking after my engine as best I can. Great engineering Aston. Thanks for the video as per usual it expanded my knowledge.
This channel is gonna turn into a wealth of knowledge and earn Dave a lot of money...I cant wait to see all the new toys he buys for the shop! Awesome channel!
Wow, thanks!
I bought my 2002 Dodge Cummins diesel new I've always done my own oil changes one day several years ago I was changing the oil in my truck I'd already drained it an pulled the oil filter when my brother in law came up while i was pre filling my oil filter he laughed at me and said it was a waste of time well 326560 miles later my 5.9 is still purring along strong no major work ever done to the engine ! I'm a firm believer that when you can you prefill your oil filter and you confirmed that right here in this video ! Thanks Dave ! I'm not the smartest nut on the block but I knew this much !
99’ Dodge Cummins diesel I’ve owned since 2003. 320150 miles. Routine and preventive maintenance!
@@mikevaughan7681 Good deal they are very dependable engines !
Dave....thank you for taking the time and teaching us all of this valuable information.
My pleasure!
Love the Steve morris shoutout. Guy is insanely bright when it comes to building an engine.
You are doing a wonderful job, gentlemen. It's nice to watch you at work. Greetings from Poland🇵🇱🇵🇱🇵🇱 👍👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Dude definitely knows his stuff and presents it very well.
i work for the dealer and customers are very happy with their 6.7 strong powerful and dont have real major problems the oil will sludge if you dont change it can cause issues
I’ve been a diesel mechanic for fourty years and yes, oil pressure buildup has always been an issue. In the 80’s Leyland fitted secondary electric oil pumps to boost supply at startup. I remember a Cummins circular in the 90’s pointing out that most engine wear occurs at startup and very worst when oil is changed, we always pre filled the filters before fitting for this reason.
We used to fit a reserve oil tank that pressurised when the engine ran with a solenoid valve hooked into the ignition , engine start oil ran from the tank to the oil gallery , 40 psi of oil pressure before the engine cranked , the tank depressed used when the ran , , I have seen them fitted onto turbo charged cosworth race engines .
We also had lubrication issues with some of our large diesel engines. The solution to our problem, was the install a pre-lubrication pump. This electric pump operated prior to engine start up. The engine oil pump would take over, after start-up, and shut down the pre-lube pump. This solved our problems.
Dave: the dad mechanic for those of us who didnt have one !
DAVE , I admire your knowledge, skill & honesty . I am in Australia , I have a 1968 HOLDEN KINGSWOOD HK with a 186 Engine .
Very humble , I know , but they raced these 186 Cubic Inch Engines with Triple Carbs , Headers & they raced & beat Ford 351 CI V8's at the Bathurst 500 .
I would love you to be able to rebuild my engine to get all the appropriate horse power I could . Wonderful information . Thank you Dave - ROBBIE.
Very cool!
2011 6.7 owner here! Very curious to see your results! I have 300 thousand on the clock and no major issues yet🤞I really appreciate the content it’s very educational. Weirdly enough I hope to have to rebuild mine one day, I must be sick haha
Good stuff
Lol!! You have a 13 year old truck with 300,000 miles and this guy is convincing you that you engine has oiling issues. There are 6.7 engines on the road with a million miles and equipped with a flawed oiling system? Lol
You've got my business!
I have a 2012 F350 6.7 Powerstroke.
364,000 original well maintained miles.
Your engine has 364,000 miles and this guy claims you have a oil starvation issue. Lol
Very interesting to just show the oil pathways of this engine. I'd love to see you do a Ford 300 inline 6.
Great suggestion!
What an excellent observation Dave made with this lubrication system!!! The engines that were/are reliable do NOT have this much VOLUME in the low pressure (suction) side of the system BEFORE it even gets to the pump!!!! And the routing of the lube system on the High pressure side of the system is very convoluted and indirect to the places that the oil needs to go to lubricate the high wear / high pressure areas like bearings and the valve-trane... Ford, has taken a very bad turn with their current equipment... So much of what Ford learned from the past, has seemed to have been lost since the Phoenominal 460's, 430's, 429's , 428's, 427 side-oiler , 390's, 351 Windsor , 351 Cleveland, The Cosworth v-8's, the Pinto engines, all of their inline 6 engines....
The list of sucessful Engines that Ford has created and manufactured are impressive and numerous... Unfortunately, several of the Power-Stroke diesels appear to have completely missed the mark, that Ford established in their past....Some of the Ford diesels (like the 6.0 V-8's) had a large amount of problems that should have been recognized & taken care of BEFORE they went into production... There are aftermarket companies that 'Bullet-Proof' those problematic engines... And apparently, this work was not subsidized by Ford, who originally manufactured these problematic engines... The customers who purchased these vehicles had to cough-up the $5k-$6.5k pricetag of doing this type of work (2016 pricing).... There should have been recalls on all of the 6.0 Litre diesel engines, but somehow, Ford was able to get away with that very poor design... Nobody who manufactures vehicles is perfect... Mistakes can be made, especially with new designs... But they should take the responsibility of covering for their mistakes, by performing recalls. Ford offered No such help for their customers... Ford used to stand for : First On Race Day... Now it stands for : Ford Offers (Their) Recall Disapproval...
Appreciate you being humble about past mistakes ie the little nut or something that went into a new motor. Accidents happen and learning from them is part of the process, I know that myself. It's partly why I get so mad when guys at the shop start cleaning their stall with the compressed air nozzle. Blowing all that crap on the floor with the air nozzle can make its way upward and into an engine (intake or whatever). Also it's easier to just get a broom anyways.
Yes agreed, if we're in this industry we better watch out for mistakes, and if we make them we better learn from them. Thanks!
I like the fact that your testing cranking speed to time how long it takes oil to get to where it needs to be,
but in real world starting most of the oil galley system is not dry when the engine shuts off much of the system retains oil only on dry start will there be a serious issue like with a new engine this is why we always prime the entire oil system on rebuilt engines I realize the customer does not have the option of priming the system after an oil change and the oil starvation problem on the 6.7 is an issue I have floated the idea of an Eletric priming motor introduced into the system that activates when the ignition is turned on with a start delay long enough to energize the entire oil galley system haven't put that into practice yet but I'm working on it.
The reality is some of these designs are made this way on purpose in the name of built in obsolete features that ensure the manufacturer sells allot of parts and replacement engines.
Great job explaining this I relate to how you think,
there have been so many times over the years in the machine shop business where I just scratch my head and think WHY??
I absolutely love your honest professionalism!
I love shops like yours, which are so few and far between
Sir thanks for the information. When I first heard your problem I thought it was cavitation in the system but couldn’t figure where you would get that from. Now that you explained the route the oil takes I do now. Multiple 90 bends. The other things is the pick up pipe if where the pipe joins the block if it’s above the oil level that seal better be perfect or it will draw past and also that length it pick up tube may suck the strainer down to the sump causing starvation and or upset that seal in the pipe That’s my take on it. Look forward to what you are doing on this project so subscribe so not miss it. Thanks Bob.
Stelar! great video. I'm not even a mechanic and this experimentation is very entertaining because someone overengineered an engine and didn't do basic considerations. This is a brilliant video. now going to watch part two
I've worked professionally in the automotive industry for 18 years, and my very first fulltime job out of high school was at Jiffy Lube. Now, everyone is as good as their training, and the environment you "grow up" in a C level tech. Every diesel engine oil change I did I always primed the oil filter, and I also primed gas engines with large oil filters. Not every quick Lube facility is garbage, it's as good as its owners and management
Good point, Jiffy Lube's can do a wonderful service. Thanks for the share.
Very interesting video! You did a great job laying out the facts.
I was shocked at such a circuitous path the oil must travel.
As over engineered as the engine is with excessive parts, I’m surprised they didn’t add a pre-oiler pump to come on prior to the engine starting?
Agree
Especially in cold climates, I know if I had a deisal , I would install one.
Sounds like a good candidate for a dry sump system with an electric pre-lube.
To your knowledge, which engine have an electric pre-lub system ?
Dave, build your own diesel engine. I’m sure it would sell like crazy!! I just bought a diesel excursion and I’m already stressed about getting in it with my family. Hey, I’ll be a volunteer to test the first engine… put it in my excursion and I’ll test the hell out of it!!!
In another life I am sure Dave would of been an outstanding Doctor 👨⚕️
We used to use the term “parts slapper.”
It’s always never Boring to watch you Hone your craft! 😂
We worked with RMC to develop the first ETS for our factory. We even developed the fixturing and block offs for the 6.7s. Prototype is still testing engines everyday. Good guys to work with.
friend, thank you very much for helping us improve as mechanics
You are welcome
I remember the accessory "12v oil pumps" or "pre-lubers" that was popular in 80's. That may be a fix for this!
Wow! Where my Kia Soul is parked I get a lotta tree shit blowing into that catch all above the engine so it could very well clog up those drains! Now my vehicle is new so no damage yet but I need to check that shit EVERY TIME that I fill up! His knowledge doesn't necessarily only reflect on the specific vehicle he may be discussing. The subject could be applied to many vehicles. This is a perfect example. Thank you, Dave...
The fix IMHO is a pre oiler pre start. A small pump pulling from the oil pan, depositing pre oil filter that pushes approx 20 psi 30 sec before crank.
Just add 2 quarts to make sure those are full at start up 🤦♂️🤷♂️🤣🤣🤣🤣. Still will be off crank. Sometimes simple things are way easier than being complicated!
Dave is the reason I will be having his shop rebuild both of my trucks engines when they have need. They are both over 120k miles now & still run very well. The rest of the running chassis and body are perfect. The rebuilds, when I determine necessary, will be well worth the cost as opposed to buying a new truck.
I ran a brand new Cat D7 dozer that wouldn't start till the PreOiler had the oil pressure up to full, than it would start on it's own after that. Took about a minute.
Excellent video Dave I've been a mechanic for 50 years built lots of engines it's hard to believe that they have so much capacity to fill on a fire up every internet ever built mostly Dodge I always Prelude the whole motor before ever fire it this looks like a nightmare to me thanks again for the great video
I Love it. Can't wait to see how this turns out.
Dave knows his Stuff...!!!
This is really good content, I’d trust your work, I can just tell, curious what kind of oil do you personally like? We have a fleet of 6.7s and run shell 5w40 syn & haven’t ran into any issues. High engine hours 14k…but they never see cold starts because they are constantly running and garaged..probably why they have lasted so long
Carry the flag Dave !!! Enjoy people with the passion to make things better ! You and your shop have that passion
Great stuff. Can’t wait for the following videos. Since you’ve been doing this so long, what is/was the BEST built engine?
Unbelievable! I cant wait for-the fix. I may buy a HD ford just to have Dave make it better. “(Ok I do need one , or 4). I hope his son improves on his Dad’s legacy !
So appreciate the good word! Have an excellent day
The real question is why the hell is every vehicle and engine so overly complicated now days. I sold all my new stuff about 3 years ago. Have all stuff around 2001. That is the peak of simplicity and creature comforts to me. I can open the hood, fix things, understand things and trouble shoot things easily!
Oldest thing I have is a 95 Ford Dually with the 7.3L. Second is my 86 GMC K2500 and 3rd is my 85 Chevy C30 dually. 350 SBC in the 86. 454BBC in the 85. Like you said, simplicity and creature comforts. 👍
Yeah, watching this thinking WTF. The oiling system is on a wild goose chase. Blow any of the seals between the block and oil pan. You lose all oil pressure. Makes not want a 6.7 PSD even more.
First thought Running with air instead of oil ..
You prooved my thought...2 possible solutions
1 during starting no fuel for x revolutions
2 electrical oil pump with pressure contact so you can asume your oil is where it needs to be before starting the engine....
Excited for part 2
I would love to be an apprentice for you guys! I’d soak up as much knowledge as I possibly could.
Wow Dave. Real interesting. At least someone is thinking about the issues. And yes I’ve been watching Steve Morris as well. Very talented. I watched the Wagon run yesterday and I was blown away. Thanks for your knowledge as well 🤩
I have a friend who has had two 6.7's (a 2013 and a 2020) he has put close to a half million miles on them - never had any bearing problems, cam problems or turbo replacements. The most troublesome part on these is the Radiator.
Wow wished I lived in Utah would love to work for this guy . He's a genius
I'm thinking my old 7.3 is worth hanging on to
Caterpillar advises not filling the filter which I always thought was pretty lame. Great video.
It would be interesting to see how much of the old oil never comes out with an oil change. Kinda like not being able to drain a torque converter on an automatic transmission when you service it...
@earlpreston1043 On several of the older vehicles, the torque converters did have drain plugs so they could also be serviced... Now days, none of the vehicles have servicable torque converters... Instead, they want The customers to come into the dealers, to buy a new vehicle... And so currently, to buy a newer design, means to agree with the ridiculously over-complicated, largely unreliable / ineffective designs, such as this one... And for the people who claimed that they already drove their 6.7 powerstroke diesel enginrs well over 300k. miles, congratulations!!! You now have just recently exceeded the 1/2 way point of my stock 350 Chevy engine in my '77 GMC 3/4 Ton P/U that has exceeded 603k miles!!! The heads and block have never been removed from this 46 Year old vehicle that travels around with a fully loaded bed, and it's often pulling a 5,500 lb.trailer ... I drive it daily, with very few problems... They just don't make them like they used to...
Motor takes 18 or 19qt. With a oil change 13.5qt. In practice 14qt hits the full line on mine
It’s a significant amount that stays in the engine. You can change the oil and start the engine and the oil will already be darker than new oil
I'm in the UK, and even though the engines are completely different here, I find this channel very interesting and informative and can take away some good advice especially the importance of regular oil changes thank you Dave
The 6.7L powerstroke engines DO NOT have "bad Engineering". This engine has the best modern design from any other manufacturer out there. This is from LACK OF MAINTENANCE and nothing else. The oil drain back problem is OVER EXAGGERATED on the internet, most oil filters have anti drain back values, this is why the engine takes 15 quarts of oil because of all those oil passages, the tolerances are very small in the engine. Those oil passages stay full of oil. Pumping air? How is air getting into the oiling system?
Yeah, guys addicted to his 'knowledge'
Unless u drive a 6.7 stop talking
Air gets into the oiling system if the pickup tube sucks up air instead of oil.
You are correct Sir. The only time that this system is full of air is after an oil change when you remove the oil filter.
@FlatPlaneCranky Yes, you will get a little bit of air during an oil change, but that's it. It will definitely NOT cause main bearing failure like Dave states in part 2. The test in part 2 is completely fake and false. Engines DO NOT operate in this way
I own a Toyota hilux ln106 diesel 1997 model. I've had it for 25yrs it won't die .
Ngl I’ve been addicted of the content of this channel. Keep it up 👍 real question I recently started changing the oil myself. Does this 9:18 tip about the oif filter being filled up with oil goes for all oil filters on 4 cyl engines?
If you oil filter mounts straight up, yes prefill it ,
If the filter is on a slant, put as much as you can without it spilling when installing your filter.
The reason this is a controversial topic is because by prefilling the oil filter, you could introduce unfiltered contaminants into the oil system. The way to correctly prefill your oil filter is to plug the clean side (the middle) and fill the filter from the outside, so that all oil is filtered. Prefilling doesn't matter as much on smaller engines because the volume of the filter is smaller and takes less time to fill. In Dave's example, it is definitely important.
IVE Learned so much this week from Dave...
Check valve in the pickup tube ??
Much respect for you Sir for being so passionate. All the way from South Africa
Wonderful to hear from you! We have quite a few followers from Africa, and are grateful to you!
My 94 Gmc 1/2 ton 350 had a knock on start up from day one. The service bulletin said replace rod & main bearings or use an oil filter with a check valve. Still running at 188,900
Good job Dave. I have now gone through 2 6.7 power strokes with oil starvation failure. One was after adding Amsoil remote bypass oil filter, yes adding to the volume and distance oil has to travel on cold start up and Amsoil told me to get stuffed for warranty. I now know Fords engineering is not good but AMSOIL compounded the problem. The other was top end worn out right from lash adjusters to rocker arms, the rocker arms actually fell off the tops of the valves and wrecked them too. Between the 2, I spent about $40,000.
Ford calls that rattle “A typewriter sound” and there a SSM for it and Ford calls it “Normal Operation”😂
My 22 F 450 7.3 gas engine, does this 😢
Its normal after and oil change and goes away after a while