Hi Bill, you likely don't remember me but you replaced head gaskets on my 6.4L. I was likely the last job you did in 2013 I picked the truck up late on Christmas eve. I was the old man you are talking about here. Had an H&S tuner. Always drove on setting 1 (Stock power) and for sure always towed my big camper in 1. But I was messing around with different settings and I forgot to change it back to 1 when I hooked up the camper. As I topped Mount Eagle I felt just a little sort of twitch. Stopped for the night and the next day coolant was low. Topped off and continued on the trip. Right about then I noticed the tuner in setting 2 and figured it out. That truck towed that big camper (17,000 pounds) out to western Montana, up to Glacier NP, back to Yellowstone, and back home, all after blowing a HG, I just kept topping off the coolant. Lots of people ragged on the 6.4L but I thought it had great power. Two months after I got it back from you a drunk old woman hit us down in Fort Myers and they totaled the truck. I got a new 6.7L and proving there is no fool like an old fool I have it tuned. Tune is STOCK POWER, EGR OFF, DPF DELETED. I think that is a safe tune. but I'm 80 now so if it blows it blows.
Hey bill!!! Awesome video!! I’ve got a 2000 F250, 7.3 with over 738,000 miles and she purrs like a cat. 3k mile oil changes, oem filters every time. You couldn’t offer me a brand new one to replace it. Thanks for all your content on your videos. Keep them coming!!
Love these longer chats.. Thanks Bill. No longer a powerstroke owner, but still a subscriber (since the old 7.3 vs 6.0 video series!) and enjoy the education. If I ever get myself into a 6.0, itll come from Arizona to see you.
I absolutely agree Bill. I've had my 2015 6.7 for 6 years now. It's been deleted since 2016. Mild tuning, but always found the trans wanted the highest gear possible all the time. I run it in tow haul 90% of the time cause it just seems to run better in those higher rpm ranges. Love your content man, keep it coming.
What tuner did you get? I'm having a hard time choosing the right one. I want power efficiency and mpg only and of course let it breath better ya know.. I want one thats safe where the tuner knows what they're doing. Not trying to run 300hp just help the engine.
I have an 11 that does the same thing. Was thinking about getting a tune with a trans tune to try to fix that. It’s actually annoying to drive I prefer my 6.0 as far as shifting goes haha
A clean mild delete tune that follows stock power levels is the way to go! Get rid of the epa engine killing crap, and don’t turn your truck into a race car; you’ll have reliability and still adequate power!
thank you so much for being an amazing person who provides so much to the automotive industry! you've always put honesty first and we all love it! cheers from texas
I wish I had went to work for this man when he put the million mile shop truck video years ago! He knows what he is doing and why the machines do what they do. I will never forget, "Too many burnouts in the cauldasack?", He is up on everything in his business, ladies and gentlemen, you want the best advice? 🤔 He is going to give it to you straight forward and bluntly with no sugar folks. Great evening to you all and enjoy.
good info on the rpm range for the 7.3l..... ill stop lugging it from now on!! Would really like to see a video describing driving habits and methods for the PS engines just like this tip on rpm sweet spot. Tips and tricks for higher mileage and longevity.
Thank you Bill, for putting this in “Layman’s term”. I just got some Banks upgrades for my 2018 power-stroke. I think you explained everything i could have had questions about for the “non-deletion and deletion options”. It’s pretty much about the RPM’s!!
Damnit... Guilty of this on the ol 03 7.3. I don't lug it hard(4r100) but I do drive at low low rpms. And I run the third, from the all out tune. My bearings gonna slip out in the middle of the night, sneak in the house right into the ol bedroom, and put it's shavings in the toothpaste and on my TP likely if I don't knock it off I feel. Im praying to the Ford gods to release the bad juju I've imposed with this "hammering" and let me spin it for another few hundred thousand miles. She runs like a top at 296k, still on factory injectors. Starts at -2 like butter too. Crazy how it works when you maintain them. Fresh ZD-11's and a stancore relay, probably better than new. Thanks for the info, it'll probably save me a small chunk for a good while.
I have a 2011 6.7 150,000 and still even has stock turbo but is deleted and a sweet and simple tune nothin crazy I hate rolling coal and thing is a champion gets 18 mpg in the city with a 4.5 lift and 35x12.5 love the 6.7 and can’t imagine hauling with anything else, great video tho man I enjoy your information
Hi Bill, this is some great information you are sharing. I have a ‘17 6.7 but I’m in the peoples republic of California so no tune for me lol. Good to know that this engine is happiest in the 1800-2200 rpm range. I started using archoil last year when I found your RUclips channel. I’ve only got 53k on the truck so I’m hoping to get as many trouble free miles as I can. Thank you so much for your great advice and additives.
I have a 13 6.7, and a 32' 5th wheel. I love the selective shifter because when I hook up to my trailer I loose 5th and 6th. I try to curse at 2000, and down grades I run 2500 to 3200. Seldome use brakes, even living in the mountains of Arizona. I recommend this operation to everyone. Never tow on O.D......
@@willc5512 so do I in Texas without all the crazy regulations… people are leaving your state in droves and moving to be free in the Great State of Texas! 👍🏻
Good information here. Good, clean, proper tuning can make a world of difference on your diesel engine. Improper tuning can kill it in record time as well.
Pushing the engine harder than intended is always a gamble. In my tuned vehicles I send an oil sample in every couple of oil changes to track what its doing. Keeps my mind stress free that there is no forbidden glitter or reynolds brand bearing foil going on.
Very good video Bill. People don't realize that the whole time the engine is running it is trying the shove the crankshaft right through the oil pan. All you're doing is multiplying the leverage when you get too crazy with fuel, timing, and overboosting past the limit it was designed for. Very good video.
Thanks for this information as I am that older guy with a 6.0 and a tune. I use the tune for good fuel economy when running unloaded and switch to a mild tow tune when needed. I have the manual transmission and tend to shift early courtesy of those years behind a Detroit diesel 🙂. Time for an old dog to learn a new trick and shift a bit later and keep the revs up.
Great video, I'm originally from the Pacific Northwest true diesel truck land. Moved to Phoenix about 18 mo ago. The heat down here is tough on my 95' F250 Powerstroke. I'm a CM for a large home builder so in the summer we spend hours a day in our trucks. All the idling is really hard on bearings I noticed one day my oil pressure was lower than normal. Still in a safe range but not high like usual. 250,000 on the truck and found my oil cooler was leaking. There's a video on a new 6.7 that had very low miles but approx 5,000 hrs of idling! Oil change history was good for the miles but the bearings were toast! Bottom line know your truck and don't abuse it.
PCP - Peak Cylinder Pressure. Timing affects it, as does fuel rate. Every engine is designed to a PCP target, and nearly every tuning change bumps PCP above that limit. Engines are also designed with Safety Factors for the individual structural components. Some of these are easy to add extra margin to (block), but others have a lot of competing targets (con rod wants to be as light as possible, so it has a smaller safety factor. Head needs to be cooled, so it can't have a large factor of safety because wall thickness competes with ability to cool it). There's always a "fuse" in the system, typically the head gasket (6.0 lifted the heads and puked coolant out of the reservoir). But if the fuse is elsewhere (as in the 6.7), the failure mode can be more severe. 6.7 is robust structurally, but (as you expertly pointed out), the combustion force can literally squeeze the oil film out from between the bearings and crank journals, resulting in metal-to-metal contact just like a dry start (except under full load). The only way to increase capacity in the bearing is to make it wider. And bearing area is another tradeoff - more area requires thinner crankshaft webs (wider bearings) or a heavier crank (journal diameter increase). So the solution to achieving more power safely is to increase the area under the combustion pressure curve, without increasing the peak pressure above the limit.
Excellent information. Not a Ford guy but what he says applies to all brands. I blew up a mildly tuned 6.5 Chevy by lugging it while towing. Now I have one with a better turbo and more fuel that I can tow much heavier with- but I keep the rpm above 2200 at all times (usually 2500 and up).
I’m running the Banks Derringer programmer on my ‘19 F-450, with 2 gauge pods monitoring all the temps. I like that it is adjust on the fly. More power = lower fuel economy. Only time I turn it on is getting on the highway or running up some big hills, when I’m pulling my 20k toy hauler, or I have a heavy load on my flatbed trailer. Has plenty of power in stock setting for most other situations. Also gets best mileage in stock setting. Best thing I did for fuel economy was put the Ram Air system on it. Gives me 10%-15% better mileage.
Don’t turn the power up when towing. That was the main point of the video. Ignition timing at lower rpms… Be sure to keep it around 2000-2200 rpm when going up steep grades.
More fuel and timing with the tuners=more force on the bearings for longer periods of time. Not to mention those injectors are injecting 3, 4, 5 times on every compression stroke.
Another awesome and informative video. I prefer gasoline powered trucks and these new gasoline 2500s and 3500s pull harder than an early 2000s diesel. That being said if I ever go diesel, I'm choosing cummins.
I have a 2012. And I refuse to treat that truck like a race car. I just beefed up some of the weaker components. I.e: turbo, cold side pipe, ccv delete, disaster prevention kit, s&b cold air and a few others. Truck runs great no matter what I’m doing, cruising or pulling. Only tuning I’ve done is for the larger tires. It’s plenty powerful without adding anymore.
Larger tires without compensating the extra diameter of the wheel assembly and the axle or transmission brings the vehicle closer to the lugging range as larger tires act like shrinking the ring gear relative to the pinion gear.... I'm just saying....
As a ford dealer tech that mainly fixes the diesels I can’t agree more! A good economy or towing tune is good for a diesel but having some racing or aggressive street tune can destroy it in a matter of minutes.
Cylinder pressure 101. I find the stock scorpions are damn perfect bone stock. The only thing I would suggest is tuning the trans shift schedule to lower dynamic cylinder compression...and an aftermarket lift pump and absolute 2 micron cat filter system.
I still have my 2003 7.3L 2 wheel drive, crew cab, long bed manual transmission. it's a pleasure to cruise cross country in. stock as far as i know and 204k miles. if i ever fix my 1983 f100 inline six 2 wheels drive short bed i may use her as a daily driver/grocery getter.
You need to put out more videos!! Apparently when you wake up in the morning, you piss excellence. It shows in every one of your videos. Everyone of your videos are perfect and dead on. I’m sure your work is the same.I really think you and your out look are refreshing! Keep up the good work.
Thats why I lock out the higher gears when I have a big load behind my 6.7 Cummins. Running a 30hp tune from a smarty and never run the higher tunes as they all start messing with injection timing to get power and that's not good for longevity.
Great advice! I guess I’m an older guy now… driving trucks with Cummins or Cats you never ran higher RPMs, unless it was a Detroit 318.. then you hammered it!
As a small business owner myself that statement you said is so true about one day we’ll be looking for bankruptcy attorneys in the phonebook and then all the sudden a job comes through the next day never know what’s gonna happen
I ordered my 01_F350 from the factory and it will be a cold day in hell before I sell it. Most reliable vehicle I've owned in almost 60 years of vehicle ownership.
I was waiting for him to say something like this. Steve dinan, founder of dinan engineering (bmw tuner/race car builder) did a good video about tuning on the drive channel on yt, heard him say 'we try to time an engine so peak cylinder pressure occurs at the optimal crank angle. That's where the engine is most efficient at making power.' What angle is optimal varies with rpm, fuel type/octane rating, flame front propagation in combustion chamber, etc. There is always a sweet spot, and anything earlier is too early, anything later is too late, and you lose power. Or worse, hammer your bearings to death, or in a gas engine, cause knock with too much advance. It gets even more complicated in diesels with multiple injection events per cylinder per firing. In short, don't let just any Yahoo tune your truck.
No: it boils down to pressure. The peak pressure has to be shifted when the engine is underload and burning a high rate of fuel in order for the engine to have longevity. ruclips.net/video/JtDJIQsTM-Y/видео.html
After reading the problems on youtube I'm afraid to delete my truck now. I have a Ford F250 2015 6.7L with 46,100 miles on it. I don't drive it much but when I do, I drive it till it gets hot. I use a OBDII and monitor when it goes into regen mode and I drive it till it deactivates and continue after it deactivates before returning home. The dealer always changes the oil and use's Motorcraft 15w40. I love the truck. Once a year for veterans day I trailer / haul my jeep for a parade.
I've heard of this happening a couple of times in the Cummins for the Ram. Those engines pull so hard at low rpm but it is very harsh on the engine and causes the trucks to run so rich which is why they smoke so much more deleted compared to other trucks.
Both my companies rams are deleted one 5500 and one 3500. The 5500 is getting a new engine right now because it decided to delete cylinder #6 while pulling our backhoe a month ago.
Great video, Big trucks and cummins drivers can lug a little more, because they are in-line and not V engines. gives them a lot more room for wider bearings = more surface area, more oil film area. I’m sure it won’t matter as much in stock form.
We have a 6.7 at the shop now. This is the third ive seen. Same problem just a little worse. It spun 3 main bearings and 4 rods. It is stock, not tuned. I think the stock programing is also to blame. They want the rpm low and converter locked for fuel mileage and to help control transmission temperatures when towing. I've talked to another shop that specializes in just powerstrokes and he is seeing alot of bearing failures around 200k miles or less. The other two trucks, one was tuned, and the other was a oil field work truck that was not tuned
Yes....trans shift scheduling and high end oil will be a big benefit. I honestly think they want these trucks dead by 250k so people buy new stuff. Look at the 7.3 gas engines. That oil system is a joke. I am at my fill with ford. They are turning me into a hater. I am an oilfield guy as well.
I drive a stock 2011 with 170k and Blackstone tells me I’ve got aluminum, probably from bearings, in my oil. I use good oil, change it regularly, and drive normally. I don’t know what else to do but wait for it to fail and get a long block.
The only Powerstroke I would consider building and tuning for power is the final edition of the 7.3 that ended in 2003. I currently have an '03 6.0 w/an '04 engine. The 6.0 and DPF Powerstroke isn't designed to be overboosted....and live very long. Economy tunes and Tow/Haul tunes can be more efficient AND powerful within the limitations of the OEM parts. It's the high-performance tunes that kill ALL diesels, especially the Powerstroke, due to its inherent design flaws. I'm not a mechanic any longer and am a retired Industrial Design Engineer. My discussions with International and Ford/Navistar engineers were very enlightening as to the flaws and WHY they exist. Suffice to say that marketing, sales, and the CARB/EPA were camped out in the engineering departments, making unreasonable demands that resulted in the product we were sold. Thank you for your insight.
FYI, there is no explosion in the cylinder during the power stroke. There is a controlled burn of the fuel and the oxygen in the air. What is left over is super heated expand nitrogen the piston squeezes the expanded nitrogen and pushes the piston back down.
Bill's impression of the yuk yuks that absolutely have no clue about these trucks, other than "pour it out and give it hell" is spot on. And they bitch and complain when their shit blows up and pretend like they are shocked. I have several friends who own various Superduty flavors of engines and trucks, as well as myself. Consistently maintaining them, religious oil changes and preventative maintenance works. Regardless of the engine, and truck, if you abuse it, it's going to fail. Just a matter of when, and how bad. If you can't afford the proper care and maintenance, you don't need one. Thank you Bill for yet another excellent video. Have a great Christmas!
What are your thoughts on the new fuel water separator/secondary filter that SPE came out with last week? It uses CAT filters and replaces the stock unit in front of the tank.
Great video and explanation Bill! Is the 20+ motor less susceptible to this problem than the previous motors due to the revised rods, piston, and lower compression??? The new 10 speed loves to keep the rpms way down, I think the main caution would be when towing to be sure to downshift on long grades. Hope you’re doing well!
It's the same for the 20+. The rods piston and compression aren't really factors. Bearing size (width) where wider is better, and then just timing are what do it. Bill touched on it just briefly but the key thing of this failure is metal fatigue in the bearing itself. Take a coat hanger and flex it back and forth it will get weak and break, that's what is happening to the bearing. The hammering is flexing the bearing and after a while the metals in it start to fail. Can't even solve this with some kind of better oil, because it has nothing to do with lubricity or film strength. Even if an oil had perfect film strength all that means is the forces are fully transferred through the oil to the bearing bending it instead of pushing oil out. You could theoretically help this with a weaker rod because a weaker rod would flex and give more, absorbing more energy and reducing what gets to the bearing. But imagine the outcries if Ford installed weaker rods. The reason higher RPM helps Bill didn't explain, but it's because the flame front of combustion always has the same speed. With higher RPM the piston and rod will get farther away from being straight up and down at the moment of peak cylinder pressure because the piston is literally running away from the flame front faster. Bill is correct, when increasing the forces in the cylinder like this you either need to use more RPM to keep the rod angle appropriate, or less timing. The lesson here really is understanding that tuners go by the dyno and adjust their tunes based on the output measured by the dyno. What they aren't doing is tuning an engine and then running it for 2,000 hours at load to see if their tunes create failures in the long run. You'll see things like "early lockup" in tunes, run away. People like that because it really will make the truck feel and drive better and get better mileage, but it's also much harder on the engine's internals.
@@seijirou302 what are you talking about?! I’m mainly referring to your comment of “run away” to “early lockup”. Do you even know what that means??? Do you understand what that does? You were pretty easy to follow at first and then it started to ramble like you regurgitated something you heard. Then you make that comment and it’s obvious you don’t know what your talking about. Don’t give advice when you yourself don’t know
Following I used T6 15w on my ‘12 but was advised to use 5w40 on my ‘15. I can see it in cold Indiana weather. But I pull heavy everyday but no tune. Yet I’m on the fence.
I've been running 15-40 since I bought my 6.7 2 years ago. It's got 175k miles on it. Run it all year long even when it gets below freezing. Never had an issue
Keep tuning your 6.7s and keep breaking them. It makes bill money and keeps him in business. Bill is a standup guy and a helluva mechanical knowledge database for these trucks.
I would be tempted to swap bearings and cooler on my own engine. I would not do it for a customer. The risk is high. Good video, thanks. Not a fan of tuners myself. They are fun, last I used one was for a brief bit for fun in a 6.0l. I then had to put in a new fuel pump.
Those bearings lost there crush. Then they become very susceptible to spinning and trashing the crank journal. I agree with the lugging. It’s hard on the bottom end especially with low oil pressure and volume
Go by your local Ford dealer's service dept. waiting room if you want to hear about Ford powertrains. I think the Ford Windsor gas V8 was the last engine they built that worked as advertised. I don't know what happened there, but the track record in the last 25 years or so is dreadful whether diesel or gas motors are being discussed. Check Engine light.
That’s a first gen 6.7 judging by the back of the turbo. We see more bottom end issues from 11-16 and early 17 trucks for some reason. Haven’t seen a whole lot of bottom end woes from 20-22 trucks yet.
I like the ending of the video. Sometimes engines need to be driven a certain way. For me I find myself trying to get to the 4th and 5th gear and then backing it off rpm and lugging it . All in an attempt to save fuel. Dam am I getting old?!! But in the end the tune saves these engines its good to do.
So i have a brand new 2023 6.7, stock, 2000 miles, and I don't lug it. I was looking at the banks Derringer 6 shooter that isn't out yet for my truck. But after watching this video... i'm going to leave it stock now. I do not want those troubles.
Be willing to bet that the tuning don't have as much to do with it as running the engine at too low of a rpm while towing and under heavy load. The higher the rpm while under load the less time the engine hammers the bearings at tdc and bdc. Higher rpm under load = less stressed time on rotating assembly
Yeah...until they shut the Canada tuner options down. I had a 6.4, and had a fantastic tune from Torque Technologies based in Canada. Story goes the EPA chased them across country lines and shut them down. I have a $1,200 paperweight in my closet.
I had a 6.2 diesel in my 1500 Chevy it started to run slow so I did the move the injection pump trick and it ran like a new one and even would puff a little black smoke when I would step on it.
Timing chain stretch will do that. Every 100K or so chain should be checked. My 86 with the 6.2 was converted to a gear drive which is nice. Can almost set it and forget it
I think people just get way too excited with the whistle of the engine and they don't really care about their investment. They just want to show off. It's common sense guys done. Tune your trucks. Leave it the way it is. Engineers work really hard to make these trucks and some people just decide to ruin it Of course some trucks or some engines. They do really well with tuning but again depending on the vehicle. Take care you guys
great education for me watching this. is this the same reason why people see metal shavings when replacing fuel filters? hence why people are upgrading to the " disaster kit" on the fuel system?
There are so many tuned powerstrokes that have 100s of thousands of miles with no issues. Mine included. Tuning my 6.4 save it. I put over 200k on that truck with 125hp tune on it. My 2012 6.7 im running a h&s tuner and 175k miles
My uncle has a 15 6.7l that he blew up at 130000 miles. I'm a gm guy but know that ford's a good truck. He deleted it and had it tuned and in 15000 miles in was over
Power comes at a cost ....even the factory engine tune has lots of power , these new engines want last like the old ones, maybe 500k with lots of babying. Everyone wants to race to the top of hill pulling 15k cost
I wonder how well these 6.7’s hold up to excessive idling? The work truck im in is a 2021 f-550 and it has 2800 engine hours and 20k on the odometer. We have to run them all day because of the cold. It was -41 the other night and the truck had to be left running all night. Nowhere to plug it in
Ten liter and larger Cummins and Caterpillar engines I know that the manufacturers warn against against prolonged idling of their engines. Both manufacturers do acquiesce but then they say only at 1,000 RPM or higher make sure that all the fuel is being burned in the combustion chamber. You might want to try 1200rpm in (-45°F) weather. You may not have to regen as much either by high idling than by slow idling.
Rip Bill thank you for all your info and help to the community, you will be truly missed!!
Hi Bill, you likely don't remember me but you replaced head gaskets on my 6.4L. I was likely the last job you did in 2013 I picked the truck up late on Christmas eve. I was the old man you are talking about here. Had an H&S tuner. Always drove on setting 1 (Stock power) and for sure always towed my big camper in 1. But I was messing around with different settings and I forgot to change it back to 1 when I hooked up the camper. As I topped Mount Eagle I felt just a little sort of twitch. Stopped for the night and the next day coolant was low. Topped off and continued on the trip. Right about then I noticed the tuner in setting 2 and figured it out. That truck towed that big camper (17,000 pounds) out to western Montana, up to Glacier NP, back to Yellowstone, and back home, all after blowing a HG, I just kept topping off the coolant. Lots of people ragged on the 6.4L but I thought it had great power. Two months after I got it back from you a drunk old woman hit us down in Fort Myers and they totaled the truck. I got a new 6.7L and proving there is no fool like an old fool I have it tuned. Tune is STOCK POWER, EGR OFF, DPF DELETED. I think that is a safe tune. but I'm 80 now so if it blows it blows.
He's no longer with us
Hey bill!!! Awesome video!! I’ve got a 2000 F250, 7.3 with over 738,000 miles and she purrs like a cat. 3k mile oil changes, oem filters every time. You couldn’t offer me a brand new one to replace it. Thanks for all your content on your videos. Keep them coming!!
738,000 very nice!
The epa is killing the diesel industry
Who?
Exactly. I've seen this same problem in stock trucks. Best mileage is low rpm with the converter locked. Hammer down on the bearings
that's facts rite there
@@ShainAndrews epa and carb
Diesel particulates literally sicken and kill people, so maybe they should kill it.
Bill is a great guy. I never met him but love how real he is here. Solid and knowledgeable. Thanks for the info I learned alot here.
Love these longer chats.. Thanks Bill. No longer a powerstroke owner, but still a subscriber (since the old 7.3 vs 6.0 video series!) and enjoy the education. If I ever get myself into a 6.0, itll come from Arizona to see you.
I got a 6.0 you can buy
Upgraded to a cummins???.....😁
@@michaellee5399 $?
Is Bill still selling his DealerProofed dualies?
I got a 6.0 you can buy too. Brand new motor 0 miles head studs is all is done to it. You just need a trans. 2007 f250 crew cab 15,000.
I absolutely agree Bill. I've had my 2015 6.7 for 6 years now. It's been deleted since 2016. Mild tuning, but always found the trans wanted the highest gear possible all the time. I run it in tow haul 90% of the time cause it just seems to run better in those higher rpm ranges. Love your content man, keep it coming.
A good transmission tune would do you good. A lot of people just tune the engine and never the trans
Yea with more power you kinda gotta accomodate with stronger trans and what not
What tuner did you get? I'm having a hard time choosing the right one. I want power efficiency and mpg only and of course let it breath better ya know.. I want one thats safe where the tuner knows what they're doing. Not trying to run 300hp just help the engine.
Same truck as you
I have an 11 that does the same thing. Was thinking about getting a tune with a trans tune to try to fix that. It’s actually annoying to drive I prefer my 6.0 as far as shifting goes haha
Thank you Bill! As a 6.7 owner this is great knowledge.
A clean mild delete tune that follows stock power levels is the way to go! Get rid of the epa engine killing crap, and don’t turn your truck into a race car; you’ll have reliability and still adequate power!
But if you don't do your own tuning, how do you know who's tunes have too much timing and who's doesn't?
North coast diesel makes clean tunes.
all day long
Don't mess with your 6.7
thank you so much for being an amazing person who provides so much to the automotive industry! you've always put honesty first and we all love it! cheers from texas
I wish I had went to work for this man when he put the million mile shop truck video years ago! He knows what he is doing and why the machines do what they do. I will never forget, "Too many burnouts in the cauldasack?", He is up on everything in his business, ladies and gentlemen, you want the best advice? 🤔 He is going to give it to you straight forward and bluntly with no sugar folks. Great evening to you all and enjoy.
good info on the rpm range for the 7.3l..... ill stop lugging it from now on!! Would really like to see a video describing driving habits and methods for the PS engines just like this tip on rpm sweet spot. Tips and tricks for higher mileage and longevity.
Any engine hates lugging. If for no other reason than the fact that the mains take more of a beating then than at any other time.
Thank you Bill, for putting this in “Layman’s term”. I just got some Banks upgrades for my 2018 power-stroke. I think you explained everything i could have had questions about for the “non-deletion and deletion options”. It’s pretty much about the RPM’s!!
Did bill pass away if so im sorry to hear he is so highly intelligent and loved hos craft terrible if no one followed his foot steps
Damnit... Guilty of this on the ol 03 7.3. I don't lug it hard(4r100) but I do drive at low low rpms. And I run the third, from the all out tune. My bearings gonna slip out in the middle of the night, sneak in the house right into the ol bedroom, and put it's shavings in the toothpaste and on my TP likely if I don't knock it off I feel.
Im praying to the Ford gods to release the bad juju I've imposed with this "hammering" and let me spin it for another few hundred thousand miles. She runs like a top at 296k, still on factory injectors. Starts at -2 like butter too. Crazy how it works when you maintain them. Fresh ZD-11's and a stancore relay, probably better than new.
Thanks for the info, it'll probably save me a small chunk for a good while.
I have a 2011 6.7 150,000 and still even has stock turbo but is deleted and a sweet and simple tune nothin crazy I hate rolling coal and thing is a champion gets 18 mpg in the city with a 4.5 lift and 35x12.5 love the 6.7 and can’t imagine hauling with anything else, great video tho man I enjoy your information
Hi Bill, this is some great information you are sharing. I have a ‘17 6.7 but I’m in the peoples republic of California so no tune for me lol. Good to know that this engine is happiest in the 1800-2200 rpm range. I started using archoil last year when I found your RUclips channel. I’ve only got 53k on the truck so I’m hoping to get as many trouble free miles as I can. Thank you so much for your great advice and additives.
I breathe alot better in Ca. So im fine with u having no tune!
come to far nothern cali its all tuned and deleted trucks up here lol
I have a 13 6.7, and a 32' 5th wheel. I love the selective shifter because when I hook up to my trailer I loose 5th and 6th. I try to curse at 2000, and down grades I run 2500 to 3200. Seldome use brakes, even living in the mountains of Arizona.
I recommend this operation to everyone. Never tow on O.D......
@@willc5512 so do I in Texas without all the crazy regulations… people are leaving your state in droves and moving to be free in the Great State of Texas! 👍🏻
Good information here. Good, clean, proper tuning can make a world of difference on your diesel engine. Improper tuning can kill it in record time as well.
Pushing the engine harder than intended is always a gamble. In my tuned vehicles I send an oil sample in every couple of oil changes to track what its doing. Keeps my mind stress free that there is no forbidden glitter or reynolds brand bearing foil going on.
Just buy an oil filter cutter, or get a System 1 oil filter, and check it yourself EVERY oil change.
Very good video Bill. People don't realize that the whole time the engine is running it is trying the shove the crankshaft right through the oil pan. All you're doing is multiplying the leverage when you get too crazy with fuel, timing, and overboosting past the limit it was designed for. Very good video.
Thanks for this information as I am that older guy with a 6.0 and a tune. I use the tune for good fuel economy when running unloaded and switch to a mild tow tune when needed. I have the manual transmission and tend to shift early courtesy of those years behind a Detroit diesel 🙂. Time for an old dog to learn a new trick and shift a bit later and keep the revs up.
Yup
6.0 likes rpm
Cleans combustion and turbo
And sounds great
Great video, I'm originally from the Pacific Northwest true diesel truck land. Moved to Phoenix about 18 mo ago. The heat down here is tough on my 95' F250 Powerstroke. I'm a CM for a large home builder so in the summer we spend hours a day in our trucks.
All the idling is really hard on bearings I noticed one day my oil pressure was lower than normal. Still in a safe range but not high like usual. 250,000 on the truck and found my oil cooler was leaking. There's a video on a new 6.7 that had very low miles but approx 5,000 hrs of idling! Oil change history was good for the miles but the bearings were toast! Bottom line know your truck and don't abuse it.
PCP - Peak Cylinder Pressure. Timing affects it, as does fuel rate. Every engine is designed to a PCP target, and nearly every tuning change bumps PCP above that limit. Engines are also designed with Safety Factors for the individual structural components. Some of these are easy to add extra margin to (block), but others have a lot of competing targets (con rod wants to be as light as possible, so it has a smaller safety factor. Head needs to be cooled, so it can't have a large factor of safety because wall thickness competes with ability to cool it). There's always a "fuse" in the system, typically the head gasket (6.0 lifted the heads and puked coolant out of the reservoir). But if the fuse is elsewhere (as in the 6.7), the failure mode can be more severe. 6.7 is robust structurally, but (as you expertly pointed out), the combustion force can literally squeeze the oil film out from between the bearings and crank journals, resulting in metal-to-metal contact just like a dry start (except under full load). The only way to increase capacity in the bearing is to make it wider. And bearing area is another tradeoff - more area requires thinner crankshaft webs (wider bearings) or a heavier crank (journal diameter increase). So the solution to achieving more power safely is to increase the area under the combustion pressure curve, without increasing the peak pressure above the limit.
Excellent information. Not a Ford guy but what he says applies to all brands. I blew up a mildly tuned 6.5 Chevy by lugging it while towing. Now I have one with a better turbo and more fuel that I can tow much heavier with- but I keep the rpm above 2200 at all times (usually 2500 and up).
I’m running the Banks Derringer programmer on my ‘19 F-450, with 2 gauge pods monitoring all the temps. I like that it is adjust on the fly. More power = lower fuel economy. Only time I turn it on is getting on the highway or running up some big hills, when I’m pulling my 20k toy hauler, or I have a heavy load on my flatbed trailer. Has plenty of power in stock setting for most other situations. Also gets best mileage in stock setting. Best thing I did for fuel economy was put the Ram Air system on it. Gives me 10%-15% better mileage.
Don’t turn the power up when towing. That was the main point of the video. Ignition timing at lower rpms… Be sure to keep it around 2000-2200 rpm when going up steep grades.
More fuel and timing with the tuners=more force on the bearings for longer periods of time. Not to mention those injectors are injecting 3, 4, 5 times on every compression stroke.
Isn't pilot injection actually helpful
Excellent discussion, Bill. Informative and educational. Thanks much.
Another awesome and informative video.
I prefer gasoline powered trucks and these new gasoline 2500s and 3500s pull harder than an early 2000s diesel. That being said if I ever go diesel, I'm choosing cummins.
One of the best diesel videos I’ve seen in a long time I’m a 23 year old diesel tech you remind me a lot of my mentor when I was 17 at the dodge house
This is one of the best videos I’ve seen about 6.7s on the internet
Hey bill that would make a great T-shirt. " I tuned my truck and I'm going to diesel h***."
I really enjoy it when you explain on the white board. It reminds me of the old days like the 6.0 perfect storm video.
I have a 2012. And I refuse to treat that truck like a race car. I just beefed up some of the weaker components. I.e: turbo, cold side pipe, ccv delete, disaster prevention kit, s&b cold air and a few others. Truck runs great no matter what I’m doing, cruising or pulling. Only tuning I’ve done is for the larger tires. It’s plenty powerful without adding anymore.
Larger tires without compensating the extra diameter of the wheel assembly and the axle or transmission brings the vehicle closer to the lugging range as larger tires act like shrinking the ring gear relative to the pinion gear.... I'm just saying....
As a ford dealer tech that mainly fixes the diesels I can’t agree more! A good economy or towing tune is good for a diesel but having some racing or aggressive street tune can destroy it in a matter of minutes.
Cylinder pressure 101. I find the stock scorpions are damn perfect bone stock. The only thing I would suggest is tuning the trans shift schedule to lower dynamic cylinder compression...and an aftermarket lift pump and absolute 2 micron cat filter system.
I still have my 2003 7.3L 2 wheel drive, crew cab, long bed manual transmission. it's a pleasure to cruise cross country in. stock as far as i know and 204k miles. if i ever fix my 1983 f100 inline six 2 wheels drive short bed i may use her as a daily driver/grocery getter.
thank you for speaking from all of your years of experience with honesty.
You need to put out more videos!! Apparently when you wake up in the morning, you piss excellence. It shows in every one of your videos. Everyone of your videos are perfect and dead on. I’m sure your work is the same.I really think you and your out look are refreshing!
Keep up the good work.
Thats why I lock out the higher gears when I have a big load behind my 6.7 Cummins. Running a 30hp tune from a smarty and never run the higher tunes as they all start messing with injection timing to get power and that's not good for longevity.
Great advice!
I guess I’m an older guy now… driving trucks with Cummins or Cats you never ran higher RPMs, unless it was a Detroit 318.. then you hammered it!
Wow I just learned so much on this topic I’m just 20 minutes, this was awesome thank you
As a small business owner myself that statement you said is so true about one day we’ll be looking for bankruptcy attorneys in the phonebook and then all the sudden a job comes through the next day never know what’s gonna happen
Thanks as always for the information..that's why I have and will keep my 2001 f250 7.3..
I ordered my 01_F350 from the factory and it will be a cold day in hell before I sell it. Most reliable vehicle I've owned in almost 60 years of vehicle ownership.
Great video!
It all boils down to leverage. It’s harder to turn the crank when it’s closer to TDC. Once it passes it all goes to the wheels!
I was waiting for him to say something like this. Steve dinan, founder of dinan engineering (bmw tuner/race car builder) did a good video about tuning on the drive channel on yt, heard him say 'we try to time an engine so peak cylinder pressure occurs at the optimal crank angle. That's where the engine is most efficient at making power.' What angle is optimal varies with rpm, fuel type/octane rating, flame front propagation in combustion chamber, etc. There is always a sweet spot, and anything earlier is too early, anything later is too late, and you lose power. Or worse, hammer your bearings to death, or in a gas engine, cause knock with too much advance. It gets even more complicated in diesels with multiple injection events per cylinder per firing. In short, don't let just any Yahoo tune your truck.
Just like peddling a bicycle.
No: it boils down to pressure. The peak pressure has to be shifted when the engine is underload and burning a high rate of fuel in order for the engine to have longevity.
ruclips.net/video/JtDJIQsTM-Y/видео.html
After reading the problems on youtube I'm afraid to delete my truck now. I have a Ford F250 2015 6.7L with 46,100 miles on it. I don't drive it much but when I do, I drive it till it gets hot. I use a OBDII and monitor when it goes into regen mode and I drive it till it deactivates and continue after it deactivates before returning home. The dealer always changes the oil and use's Motorcraft 15w40. I love the truck. Once a year for veterans day I trailer / haul my jeep for a parade.
I've heard of this happening a couple of times in the Cummins for the Ram. Those engines pull so hard at low rpm but it is very harsh on the engine and causes the trucks to run so rich which is why they smoke so much more deleted compared to other trucks.
Both my companies rams are deleted one 5500 and one 3500. The 5500 is getting a new engine right now because it decided to delete cylinder #6 while pulling our backhoe a month ago.
@@huskers1278 How many miles before it deleted itself?
Great video, Big trucks and cummins drivers can lug a little more, because they are in-line and not V engines. gives them a lot more room for wider bearings = more surface area, more oil film area. I’m sure it won’t matter as much in stock form.
I have a 99 7.3 with 400K and not tune. Ran the crap out of it everyday but it held up. I've never lugged any engine. They just don't like it.
We have a 6.7 at the shop now. This is the third ive seen. Same problem just a little worse. It spun 3 main bearings and 4 rods. It is stock, not tuned. I think the stock programing is also to blame. They want the rpm low and converter locked for fuel mileage and to help control transmission temperatures when towing. I've talked to another shop that specializes in just powerstrokes and he is seeing alot of bearing failures around 200k miles or less. The other two trucks, one was tuned, and the other was a oil field work truck that was not tuned
Yes....trans shift scheduling and high end oil will be a big benefit. I honestly think they want these trucks dead by 250k so people buy new stuff. Look at the 7.3 gas engines. That oil system is a joke. I am at my fill with ford. They are turning me into a hater.
I am an oilfield guy as well.
I drive a stock 2011 with 170k and Blackstone tells me I’ve got aluminum, probably from bearings, in my oil. I use good oil, change it regularly, and drive normally. I don’t know what else to do but wait for it to fail and get a long block.
Very good video.
You make very clear concise points.
Thank you
The only Powerstroke I would consider building and tuning for power is the final edition of the 7.3 that ended in 2003. I currently have an '03 6.0 w/an '04 engine. The 6.0 and DPF Powerstroke isn't designed to be overboosted....and live very long. Economy tunes and Tow/Haul tunes can be more efficient AND powerful within the limitations of the OEM parts. It's the high-performance tunes that kill ALL diesels, especially the Powerstroke, due to its inherent design flaws. I'm not a mechanic any longer and am a retired Industrial Design Engineer. My discussions with International and Ford/Navistar engineers were very enlightening as to the flaws and WHY they exist. Suffice to say that marketing, sales, and the CARB/EPA were camped out in the engineering departments, making unreasonable demands that resulted in the product we were sold. Thank you for your insight.
my new favorite quote is "think country boy, smoking stacks."
Also known as attention seeking half wits
FYI, there is no explosion in the cylinder during the power stroke. There is a controlled burn of the fuel and the oxygen in the air. What is left over is super heated expand nitrogen the piston squeezes the expanded nitrogen and pushes the piston back down.
Great info. Good to see still making informative videos.
Always love your videos Bill!!
Bill's impression of the yuk yuks that absolutely have no clue about these trucks, other than "pour it out and give it hell" is spot on. And they bitch and complain when their shit blows up and pretend like they are shocked. I have several friends who own various Superduty flavors of engines and trucks, as well as myself. Consistently maintaining them, religious oil changes and preventative maintenance works. Regardless of the engine, and truck, if you abuse it, it's going to fail. Just a matter of when, and how bad. If you can't afford the proper care and maintenance, you don't need one.
Thank you Bill for yet another excellent video. Have a great Christmas!
**BAD TUNING IS KILLING YOUR 6.7L POWERSTROKE**
there you go Bill, fixed your video title
might want to check the Bosch CP 4 fuel pump while you have the engine out?
What are your thoughts on the new fuel water separator/secondary filter that SPE came out with last week? It uses CAT filters and replaces the stock unit in front of the tank.
Meanwhile a 5.9 Cummins loves tuning 😂💀
Bill when the 6.7 came out: psycho diesel tunes killed this motor
Bill 11 years later: Tuning is killing your 6.7
Is it just me or are the 6.7s starting to have a lot of 6.4 problems?
Great video and explanation Bill! Is the 20+ motor less susceptible to this problem than the previous motors due to the revised rods, piston, and lower compression??? The new 10 speed loves to keep the rpms way down, I think the main caution would be when towing to be sure to downshift on long grades. Hope you’re doing well!
It's the same for the 20+. The rods piston and compression aren't really factors. Bearing size (width) where wider is better, and then just timing are what do it. Bill touched on it just briefly but the key thing of this failure is metal fatigue in the bearing itself. Take a coat hanger and flex it back and forth it will get weak and break, that's what is happening to the bearing. The hammering is flexing the bearing and after a while the metals in it start to fail. Can't even solve this with some kind of better oil, because it has nothing to do with lubricity or film strength. Even if an oil had perfect film strength all that means is the forces are fully transferred through the oil to the bearing bending it instead of pushing oil out. You could theoretically help this with a weaker rod because a weaker rod would flex and give more, absorbing more energy and reducing what gets to the bearing. But imagine the outcries if Ford installed weaker rods. The reason higher RPM helps Bill didn't explain, but it's because the flame front of combustion always has the same speed. With higher RPM the piston and rod will get farther away from being straight up and down at the moment of peak cylinder pressure because the piston is literally running away from the flame front faster. Bill is correct, when increasing the forces in the cylinder like this you either need to use more RPM to keep the rod angle appropriate, or less timing.
The lesson here really is understanding that tuners go by the dyno and adjust their tunes based on the output measured by the dyno. What they aren't doing is tuning an engine and then running it for 2,000 hours at load to see if their tunes create failures in the long run. You'll see things like "early lockup" in tunes, run away. People like that because it really will make the truck feel and drive better and get better mileage, but it's also much harder on the engine's internals.
@@seijirou302 what are you talking about?! I’m mainly referring to your comment of “run away” to “early lockup”. Do you even know what that means??? Do you understand what that does? You were pretty easy to follow at first and then it started to ramble like you regurgitated something you heard. Then you make that comment and it’s obvious you don’t know what your talking about. Don’t give advice when you yourself don’t know
Very interesting listen. Thank you for this!
Do you know what weight oil he was running?
Bearing failure seems to be more common on trucks running 15w40, especially if they ever see cold temps.
Following I used T6 15w on my ‘12 but was advised to use 5w40 on my ‘15. I can see it in cold Indiana weather. But I pull heavy everyday but no tune. Yet I’m on the fence.
Closer bearing tolerances on the 6.7. 5w40 is crucial on these engines!
I'm running 5w t6 on my cummins especially here in the cold time of year but I might throw t5 in there when it gets hot
I’ve gone to Amsoil Signature 5/40. It’s expensive but better than having to replace a motor.
I've been running 15-40 since I bought my 6.7 2 years ago. It's got 175k miles on it. Run it all year long even when it gets below freezing. Never had an issue
merry christmas tks for all you do
As an engineer this is a good video. I sold my lbz duramax and a tuner never touched it. Slow and steady.
Keep tuning your 6.7s and keep breaking them. It makes bill money and keeps him in business. Bill is a standup guy and a helluva mechanical knowledge database for these trucks.
The black smoke was killing me
My dads 6.4 just keeps going and going. Of course it had the fuel system replaced due to some bad fuel but it’s a little over 200k. Excellent truck
I would be tempted to swap bearings and cooler on my own engine. I would not do it for a customer. The risk is high. Good video, thanks. Not a fan of tuners myself. They are fun, last I used one was for a brief bit for fun in a 6.0l. I then had to put in a new fuel pump.
New fuel pump?
As a commercial truck driver, we are told to lug the trucks for mpg. I rarely see 9ver 1400 rpm.
I always thought it didn’t sound good when it was lugging. My intuition confirmed.
Those bearings lost there crush. Then they become very susceptible to spinning and trashing the crank journal. I agree with the lugging. It’s hard on the bottom end especially with low oil pressure and volume
Go by your local Ford dealer's service dept. waiting room if you want to hear about Ford powertrains. I think the Ford Windsor gas V8 was the last engine they built that worked as advertised. I don't know what happened there, but the track record in the last 25 years or so is dreadful whether diesel or gas motors are being discussed. Check Engine light.
Ha ha
Try Stelantis or gm
Tow trucks love the business
I dunno.... I had a 460 in a Lincoln Mark 4 that I thought was okay....
Old Detroits liked to be revved, old Macks liked to be lugged
Great video! Can't wait for the next one!
That’s a first gen 6.7 judging by the back of the turbo. We see more bottom end issues from 11-16 and early 17 trucks for some reason. Haven’t seen a whole lot of bottom end woes from 20-22 trucks yet.
The world's greatest narrator
I'm not a power joke owner but I love the content and the channel
I like the ending of the video. Sometimes engines need to be driven a certain way. For me I find myself trying to get to the 4th and 5th gear and then backing it off rpm and lugging it . All in an attempt to save fuel. Dam am I getting old?!! But in the end the tune saves these engines its good to do.
So i have a brand new 2023 6.7, stock, 2000 miles, and I don't lug it. I was looking at the banks Derringer 6 shooter that isn't out yet for my truck. But after watching this video... i'm going to leave it stock now. I do not want those troubles.
My truck has been on weight loss since day 2 but I’ve still always driven it on the lowest hp setting. I’m playing the longevity game with this truck.
The opposite is true of the Detroits Bill. They Did Not like to be lugged, They liked to be reved.
Same thing happened to my truck, couldn’t afford a new engine and had to auction it off
i was like man, my driving habits aren't gonna be very good for my truck and boy was i excited when he said they like 2200 lol
If you get rid of epa, which has no right to make law you solve the biggest problem.
Be willing to bet that the tuning don't have as much to do with it as running the engine at too low of a rpm while towing and under heavy load. The higher the rpm while under load the less time the engine hammers the bearings at tdc and bdc. Higher rpm under load = less stressed time on rotating assembly
Yeah...until they shut the Canada tuner options down. I had a 6.4, and had a fantastic tune from Torque Technologies based in Canada. Story goes the EPA chased them across country lines and shut them down. I have a $1,200 paperweight in my closet.
I had a 6.2 diesel in my 1500 Chevy it started to run slow so I did the move the injection pump trick and it ran like a new one and even would puff a little black smoke when I would step on it.
Timing chain stretch will do that. Every 100K or so chain should be checked. My 86 with the 6.2 was converted to a gear drive which is nice. Can almost set it and forget it
I think people just get way too excited with the whistle of the engine and they don't really care about their investment. They just want to show off. It's common sense guys done. Tune your trucks. Leave it the way it is. Engineers work really hard to make these trucks and some people just decide to ruin it
Of course some trucks or some engines. They do really well with tuning but again depending on the vehicle. Take care you guys
great education for me watching this. is this the same reason why people see metal shavings when replacing fuel filters? hence why people are upgrading to the " disaster kit" on the fuel system?
230k miles on a tuned 6.7. I drive it like a sane person and keep the service a priority. 18mpg
Very good information to know... Thanks!!
There are so many tuned powerstrokes that have 100s of thousands of miles with no issues. Mine included. Tuning my 6.4 save it. I put over 200k on that truck with 125hp tune on it. My 2012 6.7 im running a h&s tuner and 175k miles
You're such a boss brother.
In summary, dont lug the engine or run advance timing tunes?? I wonder what stock tunes with weight reduction cause?
From my readings, sensor early 1970s, all engines faced more and more retarded timing which purportedly reduce NOx emissions.
My uncle has a 15 6.7l that he blew up at 130000 miles. I'm a gm guy but know that ford's a good truck. He deleted it and had it tuned and in 15000 miles in was over
Power comes at a cost ....even the factory engine tune has lots of power , these new engines want last like the old ones, maybe 500k with lots of babying. Everyone wants to race to the top of hill pulling 15k cost
Why do I get the feeling that’s a wink wink statement only for RUclips? 05:58
I wonder how well these 6.7’s hold up to excessive idling? The work truck im in is a 2021 f-550 and it has 2800 engine hours and 20k on the odometer. We have to run them all day because of the cold. It was -41 the other night and the truck had to be left running all night. Nowhere to plug it in
Ice Road Trucker?
We have them with 20 k idle hours. They eat up dpf
But run.
Ten liter and larger Cummins and Caterpillar engines I know that the manufacturers warn against against prolonged idling of their engines. Both manufacturers do acquiesce but then they say only at 1,000 RPM or higher make sure that all the fuel is being burned in the combustion chamber. You might want to try 1200rpm in (-45°F) weather.
You may not have to regen as much either by high idling than by slow idling.