Thanks a ton. Watching this video got me through a flywheel and rear main seal replacement in my driveway on my back. I really appreciate it. For the torque converter nuts, a small neodymium magnet in a deep impact socket will hold the nut. Also for anyone else doing this in a driveway a motorcycle jack with wood cribbing will hold the trans.
The 11-14 rubber oil ringed upper oil pan will work on the 15 and up trucks that have the 6r140 trans. I've seen Ford Master Techs actually say to use the 11-14 pans if you can get one. Much easier to deal with than the silicone.
About to do this job in a few days. Probably the best big job diy videos I've seen. Great explanations and detail. Especially saying how much fluid of each thing needs to be put back in. 👏🏼
I’m currently at the step of dropping the upper pan itself. I’ve watched this video so many times both before and during this process. Probably watch it another 100 times before it’s over 😂
Excellent video. I would have used a sturdy spackle knife/scraper to free up the lower pan unless I was going to replace it with a new aftermarket with more capacity (which I would have done). Your thoroughness and detail is just what a DIY superduty owner needs!
Thank you for showing that you really can change that upper oil pan gasket without lifting the body off the frame. Thank you for sharing this video with us. May you have a good one. Have fun take care
I always use a pressure washer to remove the rtv from the oil pan. It saves a lot of time, but you may get wet! Wipes are very important. No one wants to do this job twice over a few extra dollars spent. Great video. I do a few things differently, but I work at a dealer and have done this job more times than I like to admit. Well done 👍
TA-31 is being recommended again due to some info that TA-357 is actually not a good choice for diesel motors. Something about it breaking down over time. TA-31 has been proven for nearly 3 decades as being bullet proof silicone for a diesel motor.
@@thebigbc420 my problem is trying to find the correct TA-31 to get. 3 times now when I order offline, they send a different looking TA-31 than the one with the clear 'for diesel engines' label. It's really annoying.
Do you have a parts list of everything you needed to complete that job? Gaskets, fluids, etc I have a 2013 F250 lariat 6.7 power stroke that I believe the rear main seal is blown. And I’d like to do it all at once like you mentioned in the video you made.
Great video man, I have a ‘12 KR with 245K that appears to be leaking from the driver/front of the upper pan. Was toying with doing this job myself but I’d be in the driveway on the ground. Will keep an eye on it for the time being, and replace or delete the CCV and see if that helps. Video was really good, if I had access to a lift I feel pretty confident I could follow along. Thank you!
Awesome video! One thing to watch out for is for some reason my truck had 8 nuts on the torque converter. So keep turning it until you see an empty stud. 2011 f350 king ranch.
What other seals do you recommend to be done? There is the upper, lower pan, oil cooler gaskets, oil filter adapter, the rear main seal, and the one you missed on the engine cover on the motor (lol)? Front Vacuum pump seal? I have heard of cabs having to be removed... is this something that is done to do a whole engine seal?
How much did you charge for this job? Looking into changing my front cover and upper oil pan due to oil leaks. Figured I’d swap the water pump too while I’m in there just wanted to know what it cost. May pay my mechanic to do it
I got quoted for $7k but that was with my company discount since our fleet is 6.7's. The shop normally charges $10k but that's with new upper oil pan, oil filter housing, and oil cooler. (Just to name a few)
I’m in Katy, TX. The shop is called Katy Auto Care. Give me a call next week sometime and I’d love to talk to you about it (I’m off this week due to having a new baby).
Great video, really, really appreciate the details. I have a 2016 F550 that just developed a pretty aggressive oil leak at the essentially the same location you show at the start of your video. Once dis-assembled, the leak in your video appears to be from the main seal. Did you change the upper oil pan seal for good measure? Can you please also comment on @Granitemonuments CCV box remarks? Thanks much!
After the transmission was removed to replace the rear main seal, it really wasn’t too much more labor to replace the upper pan gasket. Most of the leak was probably the rear main, but we decided it would be best to take care of the pan also at the same time. And yes, I agree with those commenting about replacing the CCV box. I didn’t mention it in the video because at the time I didn’t know much about it (I’m not a diesel expert). But since then I’ve done more research and I believe that it would be best to replace the CCV box also especially on a higher mileage truck.
I thought it was the 11’ to mid 12’ that had the rubber gasket?? I was under assumption I was going to be in the market for a gasket style pan for my late 12’ powerstroke.
You can get that top starter bolt from the bottom just gotta figure out the right combo of swivel and extenstion. I got tired of pulling the liner. Never again.
I have a slight knock in the lower end. Probably a main bearing. Is it possible to drop the pan and spin out these main bearings and replace them without taking the motor out of the truck?
Yup, I've replaced a few spun bearings on these that way. The 6.7 doesn't like timing, it delams the bearings. If you're running a tune, check your oil for glitter, 9 times out of 10 someone has their Mini Maxx set to "Performance", the timing also stresses the seals...
The prep wipes, are supposedly aluminum etching agent, with some type of adhesion promoter for the RTV., they aren’t meant for “cleaning” the surface so much.. should be throughly cleaned before using the prep wipes..
I worked on it over the period of a few days (not constantly), plus I was recording it. So I didn’t really keep track of exactly how many hours. I’m guessing it was close to the labor estimate, but it could probably be done faster.
I've been a DIYer my whole life and have built many engines & transmissions however this is only my 2nd diesel truck but my 1st ever ford & I need to do this exact job. How much does something like this cost if I were to pay outright to have it done? I k ow I can do it & I have all the tools to do it except for air tools however I'm looking into possibly paying someone to do mine. I'm also going to buy a new lower aftermarket large capacity pan. I ask because it's hard to find people who do genuine good work and I'm sure the dealer wants an arm & a leg and my 1st unborn child as well 😂
Haha yeah, I’ve heard that some dealers charge over 5k for this job. Most independent shops will probably be in the $3000-$3500 range by the time it’s all said and done.
Not sure if this is your truck, or a customer, but you NEED to get the ccv box changed, or the internal filter replaced, this generally being the only reason you would have both the oil pan, and the rear main fail, on a gasket style oil pan…
Trying to understand several comments here along this line. Are you implying that when the stock Ford CCV is in place, that re-routed pressure back into the engine contributes to or actually "blows out" the seal and pan "gasket" ? Or am I off base here?
@@hegyo7969 that’s exactly correct, I believe 2011 ccv box has a baffle so never clogs, but 2012 and 1/2 they started with a filter in the ccv and that filter clogs and stops the crank case from being able to vent, a lot of engines have similar issues but generally blow the front or rear main seal, but out 6,7’s are finding the easiest place to vent is the oil pan gasket, or lack there of., rtv sealant
@@hegyo7969 no that’s not it, the CRANK CASE VENT OR “ccv” becomes clogged and does not allow the bottom end of the block to vent, each time a piston compresses a little of that compression slips past the rings into the bottom end or “crank case” and therefore traditional diesels vented to atmosphere, however the EPA with all their wisdom have made mandatory to vent the gases back into the intake to be burnt again, so once clogged the bottom end will just build pressure untill the weakest link allows it to vent…
It’s almost correct, the “rerouted pressure is not the problem” it’s when the reroute becomes clogged.. but the other big difference is, the 2011 upper oil pan uses an o ring “style” gasket.. however the 2012 they just ditched the gasket, in favor of rtv. I’ve got a handful of these trucks, my 11 bone dry 150k miles., my 2019 has had the upper pan resealed TWICE only 35k miles., and because I’ve got a pto, they charged me 7k dollars to reseal upper pan…
Would be worth the drive. You definitely went the extra mile with replacing all the seals on the little items that most shops would skip. Hmmm your only 10hrs away.
Sadly I have just been told by the Ford shop here at home that my 2011 King Ranch needs this and ouch!! $5850.00 estimate woooo! this video gives some prospective LOL Wonder how long it would take to spend $6000 in oil LOL
@@jackhfletcher okay. I’m out of state but after going through your videos and all the good things people have to say about you, I wouldn’t mind making the drive. I have an upper oil pan leak as well as the vacuum pump leak
You’re about four hours from me. I’d like to talk with you on the phone. I just had a new baby so I’m off work this week but I’ll be back next week. Call the shop any time next week Monday-Friday 8:00am - 6:00pm. Phone number is 281-693-2886
Step #1: Find a reputable shop you trust and save up the money If you don’t have a lift, don’t even attempt this job. Did this on the ground, and my god……… what a nightmare of a job.
Biggest mistake people make on those engines is mistake leaky turbo mount oil o-rings for a rear Main seal leak cuz it drips in the exact same place! Those rear main seals on the power stroke engine aren't known for being leakers there's a 9 out of 10 chance this guy is doing his rear seal for no reason it's probably the turbo flange oil orings BETCHA!!!
Excellent video. Hope you replaced the ccv breather/filter. They like to get clogged and are often the culprit for the oil leaks in the first place
Jack demostrates the difference between master mechanic and my local VW "technician". Great detailed breakdown and re-assembly.
Hopefully your local VW mechanic isn’t working on your superduty
Thanks a ton. Watching this video got me through a flywheel and rear main seal replacement in my driveway on my back. I really appreciate it.
For the torque converter nuts, a small neodymium magnet in a deep impact socket will hold the nut.
Also for anyone else doing this in a driveway a motorcycle jack with wood cribbing will hold the trans.
Dude, that was like major surgery. Bravo on the job and tutorial 🏆
Thanks!
The 11-14 rubber oil ringed upper oil pan will work on the 15 and up trucks that have the 6r140 trans. I've seen Ford Master Techs actually say to use the 11-14 pans if you can get one. Much easier to deal with than the silicone.
True! Just switched mine on a 2015. Worked perfectly
I was going to mention the same thing.
About to do this job in a few days. Probably the best big job diy videos I've seen. Great explanations and detail. Especially saying how much fluid of each thing needs to be put back in. 👏🏼
I’m currently at the step of dropping the upper pan itself. I’ve watched this video so many times both before and during this process. Probably watch it another 100 times before it’s over 😂
How did it go. Just put tranny back in place with mine
Excellent video… Just watching trying to learn about my new 6.7. But man, yall that are able to do this stuff at home are impressive. I could never.
42 years as a heavy equipment mechanic, Great video
The most helpfully video I've ever watched. That was one great job, wish he was the one doing mine
Excellent video. I would have used a sturdy spackle knife/scraper to free up the lower pan unless I was going to replace it with a new aftermarket with more capacity (which I would have done). Your thoroughness and detail is just what a DIY superduty owner needs!
Thank you for showing that you really can change that upper oil pan gasket without lifting the body off the frame. Thank you for sharing this video with us. May you have a good one. Have fun take care
I’ve done a ton of these jobs. The top starter bolt on an f750 is about 3 times a pain w the bigger frame. PTO in the way also sucks. Great video
I always use a pressure washer to remove the rtv from the oil pan. It saves a lot of time, but you may get wet! Wipes are very important. No one wants to do this job twice over a few extra dollars spent. Great video. I do a few things differently, but I work at a dealer and have done this job more times than I like to admit. Well done 👍
nice video. Ta 357 is the correct silicone for this application. Ta 31 was used mainly for the 7.3L oil pans as well as a few other engines.
TA-31 is being recommended again due to some info that TA-357 is actually not a good choice for diesel motors. Something about it breaking down over time. TA-31 has been proven for nearly 3 decades as being bullet proof silicone for a diesel motor.
@@thebigbc420 my problem is trying to find the correct TA-31 to get. 3 times now when I order offline, they send a different looking TA-31 than the one with the clear 'for diesel engines' label. It's really annoying.
Do you have a parts list of everything you needed to complete that job? Gaskets, fluids, etc I have a 2013 F250 lariat 6.7 power stroke that I believe the rear main seal is blown. And I’d like to do it all at once like you mentioned in the video you made.
Great video man, I have a ‘12 KR with 245K that appears to be leaking from the driver/front of the upper pan. Was toying with doing this job myself but I’d be in the driveway on the ground. Will keep an eye on it for the time being, and replace or delete the CCV and see if that helps. Video was really good, if I had access to a lift I feel pretty confident I could follow along. Thank you!
Awesome video! One thing to watch out for is for some reason my truck had 8 nuts on the torque converter. So keep turning it until you see an empty stud. 2011 f350 king ranch.
Me too. Thank you for commenting. I was starting to think I was wrong
Thanks for doing this man, I want to do work on my 2018 myself and videos like this make it easy.
Best video out there... gonna do this myself in next couple weeks. Thank You!!!!!
What other seals do you recommend to be done?
There is the upper, lower pan, oil cooler gaskets, oil filter adapter, the rear main seal, and the one you missed on the engine cover on the motor (lol)? Front Vacuum pump seal?
I have heard of cabs having to be removed... is this something that is done to do a whole engine seal?
Dude just gave us a whole lesson hit that like button and suscribe
Great video I’m doing mine now and keep your video pulled up.
Thanks! I hope things go smoothly for you. It’s quite the job.
Good that this one actually had a gasket. Some of the newer trucks are just silicone.
Didn't know US trucks went metric. Great video!
The 11 pans do interchange with the 15 and up which uses a actual gasket
Thank you so much. I watched this probably 100 times.
How much did you charge for this job? Looking into changing my front cover and upper oil pan due to oil leaks. Figured I’d swap the water pump too while I’m in there just wanted to know what it cost. May pay my mechanic to do it
I got quoted for $7k but that was with my company discount since our fleet is 6.7's. The shop normally charges $10k but that's with new upper oil pan, oil filter housing, and oil cooler. (Just to name a few)
The pans are interchangeable actually! If you can get the older pan with the actual gasket.
THANK YOU FOR THIS MOST EXCELLENT VIDEO!!!!!!!
Jack where are you at and when can you do mine? Oh and what should I pay to have it done? Didn't like Fords price but may have to pay it.😮
I’m in Katy, TX. The shop is called Katy Auto Care. Give me a call next week sometime and I’d love to talk to you about it (I’m off this week due to having a new baby).
Great job. You made that look easy.
Thanks ,, excellent video 👍👍
You just might have saved me 4 grand
Great video, really, really appreciate the details. I have a 2016 F550 that just developed a pretty aggressive oil leak at the essentially the same location you show at the start of your video. Once dis-assembled, the leak in your video appears to be from the main seal. Did you change the upper oil pan seal for good measure? Can you please also comment on @Granitemonuments CCV box remarks? Thanks much!
After the transmission was removed to replace the rear main seal, it really wasn’t too much more labor to replace the upper pan gasket. Most of the leak was probably the rear main, but we decided it would be best to take care of the pan also at the same time.
And yes, I agree with those commenting about replacing the CCV box. I didn’t mention it in the video because at the time I didn’t know much about it (I’m not a diesel expert). But since then I’ve done more research and I believe that it would be best to replace the CCV box also especially on a higher mileage truck.
This is a phenomenal video.
I thought it was the 11’ to mid 12’ that had the rubber gasket?? I was under assumption I was going to be in the market for a gasket style pan for my late 12’ powerstroke.
Appreciate all the details
Top shelf work!
What’s the ballpark estimate on a repair like this? I know every shop varies but what would someone expect to pay for this?
Probably around $3500.
You can get that top starter bolt from the bottom just gotta figure out the right combo of swivel and extenstion. I got tired of pulling the liner. Never again.
Nice 👍🏻 job 😎
Thanks!
I have a slight knock in the lower end. Probably a main bearing. Is it possible to drop the pan and spin out these main bearings and replace them without taking the motor out of the truck?
Yup, I've replaced a few spun bearings on these that way. The 6.7 doesn't like timing, it delams the bearings. If you're running a tune, check your oil for glitter, 9 times out of 10 someone has their Mini Maxx set to "Performance", the timing also stresses the seals...
Is this out West? I see zero rust on the bottom.
Texas
The prep wipes, are supposedly aluminum etching agent, with some type of adhesion promoter for the RTV., they aren’t meant for “cleaning” the surface so much.. should be throughly cleaned before using the prep wipes..
How long did it take you? I know sometimes Ford's labor estimate can be a bit generous.
I worked on it over the period of a few days (not constantly), plus I was recording it. So I didn’t really keep track of exactly how many hours. I’m guessing it was close to the labor estimate, but it could probably be done faster.
I've been a DIYer my whole life and have built many engines & transmissions however this is only my 2nd diesel truck but my 1st ever ford & I need to do this exact job. How much does something like this cost if I were to pay outright to have it done? I k ow I can do it & I have all the tools to do it except for air tools however I'm looking into possibly paying someone to do mine. I'm also going to buy a new lower aftermarket large capacity pan.
I ask because it's hard to find people who do genuine good work and I'm sure the dealer wants an arm & a leg and my 1st unborn child as well 😂
Haha yeah, I’ve heard that some dealers charge over 5k for this job. Most independent shops will probably be in the $3000-$3500 range by the time it’s all said and done.
Where is your shop located?
Guess the easiest waynto remember how to do this would be to think of it like remocing the transmissions with extra steps
Great Video, Hope I don't have to this anytime soon!
Hey Jack where R U located? Where’s your shop? I got a 6.7 powerstroke leaks
Never mind, I just saw a comment you’re in Katy. Thats great I’m in south Texas. Be careful with hurricane Beryl.
Nice job
was the ccv intact on this truck? would a 2011 upper oil pan be best because it comes with a gasket?
Yes it would they interchange
Where are you located? I need this done to my f250 . How much to get this done?
Katy, TX. Let me know if you’re close and we’ll talk!
Not sure if this is your truck, or a customer, but you NEED to get the ccv box changed, or the internal filter replaced, this generally being the only reason you would have both the oil pan, and the rear main fail, on a gasket style oil pan…
Trying to understand several comments here along this line. Are you implying that when the stock Ford CCV is in place, that re-routed pressure back into the engine contributes to or actually "blows out" the seal and pan "gasket" ? Or am I off base here?
@@hegyo7969 that’s exactly correct, I believe 2011 ccv box has a baffle so never clogs, but 2012 and 1/2 they started with a filter in the ccv and that filter clogs and stops the crank case from being able to vent, a lot of engines have similar issues but generally blow the front or rear main seal, but out 6,7’s are finding the easiest place to vent is the oil pan gasket, or lack there of., rtv sealant
Just delete it. Super cheap to do.
@@hegyo7969 no that’s not it, the CRANK CASE VENT OR “ccv” becomes clogged and does not allow the bottom end of the block to vent, each time a piston compresses a little of that compression slips past the rings into the bottom end or “crank case” and therefore traditional diesels vented to atmosphere, however the EPA with all their wisdom have made mandatory to vent the gases back into the intake to be burnt again, so once clogged the bottom end will just build pressure untill the weakest link allows it to vent…
It’s almost correct, the “rerouted pressure is not the problem” it’s when the reroute becomes clogged.. but the other big difference is, the 2011 upper oil pan uses an o ring “style” gasket.. however the 2012 they just ditched the gasket, in favor of rtv. I’ve got a handful of these trucks, my 11 bone dry 150k miles., my 2019 has had the upper pan resealed TWICE only 35k miles., and because I’ve got a pto, they charged me 7k dollars to reseal upper pan…
Ill be in Houston tx soon i need this done to my f250 how can I get a hold of you for a quote
Call Katy Auto Care 281-693-2886. We’re open Monday-Friday from 8:00am - 6:00pm. We’ll be closed this Monday for Memorial Day. Ask for me (Jack).
I like this video 😊
Would be worth the drive. You definitely went the extra mile with replacing all the seals on the little items that most shops would skip. Hmmm your only 10hrs away.
Give me a call next week sometime and I’d be happy to talk with you.
How much this can cost?
Probably somewhere in the neighborhood of $3000-$3500
Good job!
I need to get some impact swivel sockets
Good video
Sadly I have just been told by the Ford shop here at home that my 2011 King Ranch needs this and ouch!! $5850.00 estimate woooo! this video gives some prospective LOL Wonder how long it would take to spend $6000 in oil LOL
Wow! We did this job for half of that (about $2900). But it’s definitely a lot of work.
Just did one and we charged 3500 with the gaskets
where are you located? @@omartorres3007
where are you located @@jackhfletcher
Katy, TX
Amigo Excelente
Ford put that crank sensor there to keep it safe.
What the name of your shop?
Katy Auto Care
@@jackhfletcher okay. I’m out of state but after going through your videos and all the good things people have to say about you, I wouldn’t mind making the drive. I have an upper oil pan leak as well as the vacuum pump leak
@Lorrieboi What state are you in?
@@jackhfletcher Sabine Parish, La
You’re about four hours from me. I’d like to talk with you on the phone. I just had a new baby so I’m off work this week but I’ll be back next week. Call the shop any time next week Monday-Friday 8:00am - 6:00pm.
Phone number is 281-693-2886
You don't need to pull the filter housing or the oil cooler off the midpan
Where you located ?
Katy, TX
@@jackhfletcher that sucks for me … front of mine starting to leak very little an I don’t wanna take it to the dealer, thx for the awesome vid !
Necesitamos que lo esplicas en español porque hay muchos mecánicos que no traban bien
Due a video on the engine bay
Step #1: Find a reputable shop you trust and save up the money
If you don’t have a lift, don’t even attempt this job. Did this on the ground, and my god……… what a nightmare of a job.
I saw one video of a guy doing this in his garage… and you’re exactly right. I wouldn’t even think of doing this without a lift.
Estaría bien que también hicieras videos en español pero si me sirvió el video aprendo más cosas gracias buen video
Gracias amigo.
this jobs a walk in the park.
Step 1: drive to dealer
Step 2: take what ever offer you get
Live happily ever after
$$$?
MAKE SURE YOU PULL OUT THE DIPSTICK BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE PAN!!! Ask me how I know this...lol
Good point!
Biggest mistake people make on those engines is mistake leaky turbo mount oil o-rings for a rear Main seal leak cuz it drips in the exact same place! Those rear main seals on the power stroke engine aren't known for being leakers there's a 9 out of 10 chance this guy is doing his rear seal for no reason it's probably the turbo flange oil orings BETCHA!!!
(I would never put rear main in without proper tool
Hablas español
Sí.
Orthophosphoric acid
Don't use that motorcraft rtv it's junk