To those who were asking the three songs I used in the is episode were: - Sherwood Stroll - soundcloud.com/funkmammoth/sherwood-stroll - S Strong - Slang 42 - soundcloud.com/s_strong/s-strong-slang-42 - April Showers - Proleter - soundcloud.com/proleter-beatmaker/proleter-april-showers
Hi! Thanks for your videos of our beloved Minis. I’m wondering if you can make a DIY video of how to setup correctly the mechanical speedometer when you change tires from 10 to 12 - that’s my case - to show the correct speed. I tried following the instructions of a Smiths manual but ended up to nowhere. Thanks!!
GREAT reliable ecomical engine made in britian for various british cars ,. desgin was influcened by british road tax laws i.e small piston long stroke . green colour was left over ww2 army paint . a version was also made by datsun in japan under lincence from bmc
Hola desde Uruguay me trajo muchos recuerdos como mecánico que armaba esos hermosos motores una joya de la mecánica que también puede tener 2 modelo 850 y 1275
I am not a practical car repairer (I don't even own a car 🙂) but I am English and am in love with Austin, Rover and associated British cars. I enjoyed watching the video and generally got the drift of most of what the parts were. Is the A-series engine still a good engine in 2022? I feel a lot of nostalgia for it. What are its shortcomings, if any? Why does it not suffer from the head gasket issues that the later K-series engine exhibited? Have you worked on K-series engines and, if so, what is the best head gasket type to use? I am sorry if my questions are rather basic.
I've recently bought the Swiftune Heritage Die Cast Pistons +40. I have a question, I noticed the top of the pistons, is not flat, there is an offset surrounding the bowl, so you will see the diameter is not even from the top view, certain angle is thick and as it goes around certain angle is thinner. Can I know why was it made this way and which way goes in during the piston installation into the block?
I have two full series of complete rebuilds on the Rod Change and Remote Change gearboxes you should check out. They cover the entire process start to finish. :-)
Nice work and the engine really looks stunning. Just two things: 1) Distributor should face vacuum inlet upwards (roughly towards 11h) from what I know - yours seems to me turned by 180° 2) When you have installed piston no. 3, at 4:50 it seems to me that there are some vertical scratches on the bore wall in compare to the situation before that? (f.e. 4:30) Or is it just misfocus of the camera doing that and they were there before?
Hey! Thank you, the distro is just put in there so it's not sitting on my workbench. I still need to clean up the bracket for it, at that time ill orient it as needed. Regarding the scratches, it's camera funkiness. Those cylinders were honed to 1293 and were some of the cleanest I have ever see. :-)
How do i support! Great channel. Iv got a 1975 Clubman with a 1275 that needs a short block rebuild. So going to pull motor for the first time and dive in over the winter
Great video and fantastic engine. Where did you get the lifting hooks that fit in the spark plug holes? I have not seen those in the usual Mini suppliers
The three songs I used: - Sherwood Stroll - soundcloud.com/funkmammoth/sherwood-stroll - S Strong - Slang 42 - soundcloud.com/s_strong/s-strong-slang-42 - April Showers - Proleter - soundcloud.com/proleter-beatmaker/proleter-april-showers
Also quick comment, what is the grey sealant paste that you are using called? I heard a comment in a previous video,but cannot remember which one. It looks super easy to use in that tube.... I assume you would only use that on the paper gaskets.. so e.g. if using a copper gasket between the gearbox and block you wouldn't use it? thanks trev.
Hey sorry for the delay in response! The sealant I use is permatex black(link below) and yes its only used on paper gaskets in my engine builds. Never on the head gasket, and never any more than a very very light coat on the oil pump gasket. amzn.to/2WPzUqE
@@classicminidiy I understand paper but I see you used it inside and outside the main seal too, correct? I am about to Marry my engine and tranny and was assuming I use the black stuff there. Thanks. I wish mine came out as cool as yours.
Hey! I probably won't ever do one on this mini, I don't really want to cut a hole in the body for it since I am running an SPI tank that has enough fuel capacity for me already. That said it is on my list for a future mini whenever I buy another.
I have a leak coming from the oil pan I suspect the gasket has gone I always thought the pan was a separate part but is the pan part of the transmission?
In most cars the oil pan is indeed separate. With the classic mini the gearbox casing (the part I lifted onto the upside down block) is both the gearbox and the "oil pan" as such. This means to remove the casing/pan you have to pull the engine to get it off.
Brilliant video - and definately something I will be using when putting my metro turbo a series engine back together. Kindly our friends over at HRE are doing the engine bore and head work "prep" for me. By any chance would you have a list, or know where I could find one of all the bolts required to put an a series back together. So e.g. on min-spares and others there are bolts say for the water pump fitting. But I would love to be able to buy a kit of all the assembly bolts ( of course not head or transmission fitting bolts ) as they are special ones.. But the oil pump / water pump, ancillaries could all be covered with nice stainless.. Thoughts?
Thank you! You're in expert hands with HRE! I don't have a list of all the bolts required unfortunately but its something I wanted to build a kit for at some point. I believe Crafted Classics has a nice little kit available. I will say, if you hit a local hardware store and buy a pile of 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 in coarse and fine threads, in various lengths you will have 90% of the hardware you need for the engine. If you pick them up yourself you have the added benefit of getting Grade 8 hardware too for peace of mind! www.craftedclassics.co.uk/fixings/p/engine-bolt-kit
@@classicminidiy Perfect and thanks for the link.. you are correct about general hardware store purchasing.. I have done the same for my normal MG cars, which use metric bolts - so makes sense to build up a stock of Zinc platted and stainless fasteners at grade 8, or 10.9 in various sizes... simple things like this save time in the long run.
No idea honestly. If I had to guess it was cheaper to not make any changes than re-engineer it. Apparently rover really wasn’t doing super well financially by the end of it.
I wasn't able to identify the engine number unfortunately but, the block casting is A+ based on external visual queues, the crankshaft, pistons, and rods were all A+ varients. And then I measured the bores to determine the displacement.
These blocks actually can be brought out to 1380 and run very well. You have to offset the bore properly when you go that big though. This one is only at 1293 which is a very common and good over bore.
@@classicminidiy Thanks. I had an aluminium head Hillman Imp. The pots were so close to the waterjacketing that corrosion allowed exhaust gas to passover into cooling system and then out through the radiator cap. Disastrous!
Wtf is going on here, you’ve fitted bigger valves but not ported the head? The engine must be very mild and meek, there’s not even a centre main strap fitted…
To those who were asking the three songs I used in the is episode were:
- Sherwood Stroll - soundcloud.com/funkmammoth/sherwood-stroll
- S Strong - Slang 42 - soundcloud.com/s_strong/s-strong-slang-42
- April Showers - Proleter - soundcloud.com/proleter-beatmaker/proleter-april-showers
Nice to see you painted it the right colour.
Thank you for Great Video and the usefull Links.
Hi! Thanks for your videos of our beloved Minis. I’m wondering if you can make a DIY video of how to setup correctly the mechanical speedometer when you change tires from 10 to 12 - that’s my case - to show the correct speed. I tried following the instructions of a Smiths manual but ended up to nowhere. Thanks!!
GREAT reliable ecomical engine made in britian for various british cars ,. desgin was influcened by british road tax laws i.e small piston long stroke . green colour was left over ww2 army paint . a version was also made by datsun in japan under lincence from bmc
Great information and videos ‼️‼️👌‼️‼️‼️‼️
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it.
perfect video. thanks for this one 👌
Thank you!!
Hi great video, I was wondering what are some things I can look at to know what kind of engine my mini has?
This a great video! Good fun watch 🥰🐶
Came out amazing 👍🏽👍🏽
Great engine color. Is that bmc mowog green paint?
Yes it is! Moss motors here in the states carries the color in a rattle can
Brilliant video
Thank you!
What is the songs from the 40s mixed in you used? Love it!
Hola desde Uruguay me trajo muchos recuerdos como mecánico que armaba esos hermosos motores una joya de la mecánica que también puede tener 2 modelo 850 y 1275
I am not a practical car repairer (I don't even own a car 🙂) but I am English and am in love with Austin, Rover and associated British cars. I enjoyed watching the video and generally got the drift of most of what the parts were.
Is the A-series engine still a good engine in 2022? I feel a lot of nostalgia for it. What are its shortcomings, if any?
Why does it not suffer from the head gasket issues that the later K-series engine exhibited?
Have you worked on K-series engines and, if so, what is the best head gasket type to use?
I am sorry if my questions are rather basic.
If you ever own anything B L made you will very quickly become a practical mechanic.
I've recently bought the Swiftune Heritage Die Cast Pistons +40.
I have a question, I noticed the top of the pistons, is not flat, there is an offset surrounding the bowl, so you will see the diameter is not even from the top view, certain angle is thick and as it goes around certain angle is thinner.
Can I know why was it made this way and which way goes in during the piston installation into the block?
do a video on the Classic BMC A-Series transmission and final drive
I have two full series of complete rebuilds on the Rod Change and Remote Change gearboxes you should check out. They cover the entire process start to finish. :-)
@@classicminidiy thanks will do that
Nice work and the engine really looks stunning. Just two things:
1) Distributor should face vacuum inlet upwards (roughly towards 11h) from what I know - yours seems to me turned by 180°
2) When you have installed piston no. 3, at 4:50 it seems to me that there are some vertical scratches on the bore wall in compare to the situation before that? (f.e. 4:30) Or is it just misfocus of the camera doing that and they were there before?
Hey! Thank you, the distro is just put in there so it's not sitting on my workbench. I still need to clean up the bracket for it, at that time ill orient it as needed. Regarding the scratches, it's camera funkiness. Those cylinders were honed to 1293 and were some of the cleanest I have ever see. :-)
How do i support! Great channel. Iv got a 1975 Clubman with a 1275 that needs a short block rebuild. So going to pull motor for the first time and dive in over the winter
Great video and fantastic engine. Where did you get the lifting hooks that fit in the spark plug holes? I have not seen those in the usual Mini suppliers
Thank you! The lifting hooks are a custom tool I had a welding friend of mine make. They aren’t sold anywhere.
I’m sure you could fabricate some from a couple of old spark plus plus a couple bits of scrap
Talk about an exciting build! She's a beaut!
Can’t wait to see it finished and in the car!
Me either! :-)
Where can I find a partslist for this engine plz, great job btw
May I know the name of the background music, thanks!
I second that!
The three songs I used:
- Sherwood Stroll - soundcloud.com/funkmammoth/sherwood-stroll
- S Strong - Slang 42 - soundcloud.com/s_strong/s-strong-slang-42
- April Showers - Proleter - soundcloud.com/proleter-beatmaker/proleter-april-showers
@@classicminidiy Thank you so much! This is gonna be my default playlist while on the job, quite rejuvenating!
I would love to have you build my mini engine
Also quick comment, what is the grey sealant paste that you are using called? I heard a comment in a previous video,but cannot remember which one. It looks super easy to use in that tube.... I assume you would only use that on the paper gaskets.. so e.g. if using a copper gasket between the gearbox and block you wouldn't use it? thanks trev.
Hey sorry for the delay in response! The sealant I use is permatex black(link below) and yes its only used on paper gaskets in my engine builds. Never on the head gasket, and never any more than a very very light coat on the oil pump gasket.
amzn.to/2WPzUqE
@@classicminidiy I understand paper but I see you used it inside and outside the main seal too, correct? I am about to Marry my engine and tranny and was assuming I use the black stuff there. Thanks. I wish mine came out as cool as yours.
Hey, can you do an install video on a Right Hand Gas Tank? Can‘t find ANY videos about that, would be cool to see one on your channel✌🏼😁
Hey! I probably won't ever do one on this mini, I don't really want to cut a hole in the body for it since I am running an SPI tank that has enough fuel capacity for me already. That said it is on my list for a future mini whenever I buy another.
@@classicminidiy Ah okay, no problem😁
I have a leak coming from the oil pan I suspect the gasket has gone I always thought the pan was a separate part but is the pan part of the transmission?
In most cars the oil pan is indeed separate. With the classic mini the gearbox casing (the part I lifted onto the upside down block) is both the gearbox and the "oil pan" as such. This means to remove the casing/pan you have to pull the engine to get it off.
Have you a link for Electrical work you used
Didn't see any crankshaft thrust washers being installed....?
Might have left it out of the video but I installed them. 😎
Brilliant video - and definately something I will be using when putting my metro turbo a series engine back together. Kindly our friends over at HRE are doing the engine bore and head work "prep" for me. By any chance would you have a list, or know where I could find one of all the bolts required to put an a series back together. So e.g. on min-spares and others there are bolts say for the water pump fitting. But I would love to be able to buy a kit of all the assembly bolts ( of course not head or transmission fitting bolts ) as they are special ones.. But the oil pump / water pump, ancillaries could all be covered with nice stainless.. Thoughts?
Thank you! You're in expert hands with HRE! I don't have a list of all the bolts required unfortunately but its something I wanted to build a kit for at some point. I believe Crafted Classics has a nice little kit available. I will say, if you hit a local hardware store and buy a pile of 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 in coarse and fine threads, in various lengths you will have 90% of the hardware you need for the engine. If you pick them up yourself you have the added benefit of getting Grade 8 hardware too for peace of mind!
www.craftedclassics.co.uk/fixings/p/engine-bolt-kit
@@classicminidiy Perfect and thanks for the link.. you are correct about general hardware store purchasing.. I have done the same for my normal MG cars, which use metric bolts - so makes sense to build up a stock of Zinc platted and stainless fasteners at grade 8, or 10.9 in various sizes... simple things like this save time in the long run.
Question for you: With advancements, why wasn't the cam positioned directly above the valves in later models?
No idea honestly. If I had to guess it was cheaper to not make any changes than re-engineer it. Apparently rover really wasn’t doing super well financially by the end of it.
Is it a 998 cooper?
Awesome work again 👌🏻 Seven mini parts looks like a great shop!
That MED breather kit looks the tits !
The breather kit is actually from DSN not MED. :-)
@@classicminidiy either way it’s awesome
nice video, where did you get the timing casing from ?
This timing cover is from MED engineering. DSN retro sport offers a really nice aluminum one as well
What dizzy did you use for this engine
The one I stuck in there is just a standard A+ dizzy. I think long term I’d recommend a 123 distro but I’ll leave it to the new owner to choose
Where are you located?
North Carolina in the USA
Spot on Cole. But, how did you identify the engine? 👍
I wasn't able to identify the engine number unfortunately but, the block casting is A+ based on external visual queues, the crankshaft, pistons, and rods were all A+ varients. And then I measured the bores to determine the displacement.
@@classicminidiy thanks Cole. Keep up the great work. I love your channel.
Who's rocker assembly is that?
Those are factory late model rockers.
Wondering if this block has reached its limits as far as increasing cc capacity. Those pots seem awfully close to each other now.
These blocks actually can be brought out to 1380 and run very well. You have to offset the bore properly when you go that big though. This one is only at 1293 which is a very common and good over bore.
@@classicminidiy Thanks. I had an aluminium head Hillman Imp. The pots were so close to the waterjacketing that corrosion allowed exhaust gas to passover into cooling system and then out through the radiator cap.
Disastrous!
Horrible music
Cool
Wtf is going on here, you’ve fitted bigger valves but not ported the head? The engine must be very mild and meek, there’s not even a centre main strap fitted…