Classic Mini DIY - Converting your Mini from Drums to Discs
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- Опубликовано: 20 май 2019
- #brakes #discconversion #drums
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Conversion Kit: cmdiy.co/DiscConversionKit
MiniSpares Calipers: cmdiy.co/MiniSparesCalipers Thanks for watching Classic Mini DIY! Please note Classic Mini DIY assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Classic Mini DIY recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, expensive electronics, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Classic Mini DIY, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Classic Mini DIY. Only attempt your own repairs if you can accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad. 
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Just a heads up everyone, one thing I forgot to mention that is super important, is if you are doing this conversion you will need a REAR BRAKE PROPORTIONING VALVE. This will make sure your brakes don't lock up due to a drastic pressure differential between the front and back brakes. Links to this valve are below. Note: installing this valve will require a full brake bleed.
Early Cars: www.7ent.com/products/brake-proportioning-valve-mk1-2-and-cooper-s-mk3-21a1774.html?af=cmdiy1959
Later Cars: www.7ent.com/products/proportioning-valve-mk3-to-1980-13h7757.html?af=cmdiy1959
Any chance of a link to the Brake Proportioning Valve (I think I know what they are, but just to be sure)
Very good point. I wish I knew this back when I put "S" disks on my Mini...basically, no front brakes all *REAR* brakes leads to the car spinning 180 degrees. Not good!
we call it a 'compensator' they swap ends when that goes wrong!
no you dont you can change the rear wheel cylinders like they did when built if they had disks
hi, friend
I have mounted these same calipers and I have problems, the 10" rims do not fit. I have to put a 20mm spacer, so that the rim fits, do you have any good ideas?
thank you
The last 24hrs iv watched so many of your videos! I am about to buy my first mini and restore it! I can’t wait to get started now!
omg, u just changed my life with that use of a jackstand post with the jack. so much better than using a 2x4
I find it really sweet that our A series mini has fans across the pond. Wise words from an old sage on the top/bottom ball joints: "if you can grease in there, they are fooked!"
Beautifully clear how to video. Even if a person wasn't thinking of doing this conversion the video shows clearly how the various bits, steering, brakes and suspension all fit together at the wheel end.
In the middle of my conversion right now. This video would have been handy a few weeks ago! Love it!
Great Explanation!
Another process improvement.. For replacing the outer CV Joint
.. to avoid working in the car trying to drift off the outer CV with a moving axle. It is very simple to release the inner boot on the INNER CV (at the transmission) and leave the CV Hub in the transmission and pull the Axle out of the Hub and frame
Then you can do all your outer CV Replacement and Boot work OFF of the car . To re install simply slide axle back in the inner hub and Re affix the boot. (good time to re grease the hub too)
Awesome video been looking for an instructional video on this upgrade!
To stop the drive shaft coming out of the differential, or worse, pulling apart the inner CV joint (I’ve heard them called “pot joints” or “tripod joints”) and/or tearing its boot, I have made up a simple special clamp. It’s two of the pressed steel, serrated saddles from u-bolt exhaust clamps joined by two suitable lengths of threaded bar with nuts and washers. I can clamp the drive shaft to the rear arm of the suspension wishbone (control arm) so firmly in place that I can wield my leather/copper mallet very energetically. BTW, I recommend cleaning the grease off the drive shaft and wishbone with brake cleaner to get the best grip between them. I also use brake cleaner to degrease the male and female tapers of ball-joints and their seats to get maximum friction and stop the pin turning, especially when I’m assembling them with nyloc nuts. PS I also have a special puller for CV joints but it' a bit big and unwieldy for Minis.
Cole, Great job on the conversion & a master class in how to! It‘s a split pin on the castle nut not a Cotter pin! A cotter pin has a flat on one
side like in a bicycle pedal crank, Sorry hope i‘m not being too picky but you guys did invent Grammely lol. Cheers Dave
yup, you cannot get the drive shaft out of the back of the cv joint without splitting everything. Unless, you put full lock on in heavy rain and drop the clutch on an 848cc van & and have to walk home to get your gear - embarassing.
not if your an American ,, they cant pronounce solder properly either though ...
This was a very well made video , liked your ball joint splitter .
Excellent step by step video mate!
Thank you this is so comprehensive 👌🏽
You’re very welcome! Glad you liked it
Great video, good content, technical approaches and editing... well done.. I am rebuilding a mni I just picked up and your video's have been and are helpfull
Great video Cole :)
You forgot the brake line copper washer that fell off when you spun the drum off. Would also Rec you put the OE dust shields back on because they help with degradation from debris. Just FYI.
AMAZING ONE🍻
Love it!
Nice work bro 👍👍👍
"This one time, in band clamp..."
Hi Cole. Great video, I was told that you should pre load the bearings by tightening with a flat washer in place of the split taper washer. This ensures the bearings are located properly so that when you torque up the nut with the split washer it doesn’t bind against the shaft giving an artificial torque effect. The split washer can pinch the shaft if it’s not located fully apparently. I get the logic and it doesn’t hurt to be sure :)
Thanks for sharing this info. I have always done it direct onto the split tapered washer but that doesn't mean its the right way. However so far, knock on wood, my bearings have been good. :-) Still though I will give your method a try on my next bearing job. Thanks!
Yes I’ve only done the job twice. The first was 20 years ago and the nut came loose so I used this method recently and it’s been good so far. Maybe you have to be unlucky for it to be an issue lol but that’s me, if it can go wrong it usually does :)
Yehp you definitely need to pre load the bearing and pull it home with a beefy flat washer before putting the tapered washer In
Great video as ever, especially as a drum to 7.5 disc conversion is definitely on my To Do list!! That car does need a front end restoration though, too much rust on the inner wings for my liking, reminds me of mine before I restored it :-)
Thanks Bill! I totally agree that rust does need some love. Although definitely a job for another day. :-)
Good video, the only thing I noticed was when you put the brake hose on the 4 pot calliper you didn't show a copper washer being used between the hose and calliper?
Very good video how about alignment between front and rear wheels?
I remember when I used to go to band clamp....
Cole u let me down today boyo !! For the first time ever I jacked up my minivan on the rear subframe like u said and it’s proper bent !
Where exactly did you jack it from? The places I outlined in the video are the strongest part of the frame to Jack from. The safest as well. Any chance the metal was fatigued or beginning to rust?
Classic Mini DIY not really bud I mentioned u in the viddie I’ve not posted it, at the rear of the van just past the fuel tank in the centre of the subframe I should have used wood to spread the wieght
I’m really sorry to hear that man. I did comment that you need to lift on the sides of the subframe not in the center stretches though. So the areas behind the wheels are where I indicate to lift from rather than the two metal spans that go across the center of the car.
Classic Mini DIY bugga I had forgot about that bit was a long time ago I watched it my jack couldn’t get to the edge of the sub frame nxt to the wheel, I’ve had a terrible day on the mini I now I got a Bent rear sub frame in the middle any advice bud ?
It shouldn’t impact the drivability at all but if you remove it, it’s gonna be harder to get back in. If it makes you feel better mine is bent in the same place and my mini has been just fine for the last 8 years. 👍🏼
Going to do this on Tom's clubby Cole ,cheers mate great vid 😎😎😎😎👊👊👊👊👊👊👊👊
Thanks Mark! Its totally worth the conversion.
Terima kasih sudi kongsi info yang amat berguna
Sama-sama! Terima kasih banyak untuk menonton.
Great video. One question (sorry if it's already been asked) - the spacer between the caliper and the hub - it liked quite mobile when you were showing where to fit it - what holds it in place? - the pressure of the caliper against hub, or is there a small depression/ recess that it fits into, or other? Thanks again.
Great job Cole. I wish this video was made when I did mine a couple of months ago but judging by your install I got mine right aswell.
I was told a couple of things however.
- I needed smaller rear brake cylinders even though I do have a proportioning valve
- I used shorter brake hoses as the older ones from the drums tended to rub and foul apparently.
- a mini mechanic asked if I preloaded the bearings during install, not sure what he meant. But I’m sure I’ll find out if they wear prematurely
This is on an Australian Leyland, not sure on the differences with the US.
Thanks again
Hey Kyle! Here's my thoughts:
- I needed smaller rear brake cylinders even though I do have a proportioning valve
I disagree with this perspective, the key is the proportioning valve. Having smaller cylinders in the back certainly will not hurt anything but I run larger cylinders back there and I am very happy with my stopping behavior on bad wolf.
- I used shorter brake hoses as the older ones from the drums tended to rub and foul apparently.
This is true and one thing I left out. The lines on this car had already been replaced so I forgot to mention it.
- a mini mechanic asked if I preloaded the bearings during install, not sure what he meant. But I’m sure I’ll find out if they wear prematurely
Another commenter mentioned this as well. I have never done this with my disc wheel bearings and so far things have been ok. That said preloading them will not hurt anything and if you want to do it I dont see any problem with it.
👍🏻
I suppose that’s the great things with minis, there’s so many people with so many tips and tricks. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
And what a good friend you are doing the upgrade! Maybe your friend should grab a torque wrench and learn the torque spec for the lug nuts!
Looking forward to the next vid!
Very informative vid.thanks
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching
I just finished replace my broken disc bearing.got inspired by your vid.
Also remember that some CV joints have 4 holes and or 2 holes for the split pin and each type has different torque specs
I’ve not seen a 4 hole one on a classic mini before. Are those only later cars? Great info though!
@@classicminidiy The link you mentioned - Stevestonmotorco , covers the 2 hole vs 4 hole difference and the torque specs
Hi. My car is a 77’ European model with the split diagonal system and a pdwa valve. Do I need to something to limit the rear brale pressure?
It might be a silly question, but I was wondering if it is possible to do the conversion in the back brakes. I have a Mini 98 which has disk brakes in the front, this is why I'm asking. Many thanks.
re stopping brake fluid ...just partially press the barke pedal with a short length of wood between the seat and pedal.....closes the return path for brake fluid-easy...
How do you install a circlip without bending it? I’m having a nightmare over here! I was just doing a simple CV joint boot replacement and bent my circlip. I managed to get it circular again but cannot install it without it bending. Ugh!
I changed the hub in my mini on the drivers side and the drivers shaft just slides out. There’s no resistance holding it in. It just slides back in but I’m concerned something isn’t right and it should be held in there properly
Hi there
nice video
I have a 64 Austin mini
we need chance the master cylinder?
how can I get the parts
the web site says outstock?
I have a Japanese 1991 with disc rotors already, would you know if I can just buy those calipers? Thanks
Are you planning on fitting a remote break servo unit to compliment the disc brakes,would stop on a sixpence then.Good vid enjoyed it.
I have thought about it. Although I’ve never really been disappointed in the performance of the brakes without a servo.
Good vid, chap! The owner might want to look at new tie bars! His are bent!
Yup I actually mentioned it when I was doing my initial inspection. Both sides were pretty bent, and I relayed to the owner :-)
so to replace the breakdisc, you need to buy the whole hub?
Nice and clear step by step viseo on a nice conversion but a couple of comments if I may?
As you have fitted new wheel bearings then for the initial torque setting you should never use the taper washer. Use a solid flat washer to pull the bearings in line and to full torque, remove it and THEN use the taper washer to bring to final torque setting.
Its not a good idea to fit the drum brake pipe to a disc caliper as they are different - GBH 170 is the shorter drum brake hose and GBH249 is the longer disc brake hose. And when fitting always fit to the caliper (with copper seals) first and THEN onto the subframe and metal pipe. What you did was distort the pipe by nipping it up in the caliper while still attached to the subframe. Its an easy mistake to make though.
Definetly correct. The brake lines were replaced for disc brake style hoses prior to my work however I should have called that out. Thanks for the tips and I’ll be sure to call it out in upcoming episodes. 👍🏼
Things are so much harder than they need to be.
That cv joint boot could have been salvaged, yes it was perished but they do that well before they fail.
To split the pot joint you simply cut the zip tie on the diff side, then a good pull out towards the hub end and out comes the shaft. Be careful about the ball bearings in the pot joints.
On the conversions I've done we had to change rear wheel cylinders so the brake pedal travel was reduced. Yes this might not be required on every car so please take the car on a very quiet but very wide road so that the brakes can be tested.
However a great video
Brake flex hoses are also different from drum to disc, as is the 7.5 and 8.4 inch disc and drive flange.
I'm not an anorak, I've done this conversion a few times.
What size rear wheel cylinders? Eg: What size did you remove and what size did you put in?
I didn't change the rear cylinder size as I feel that they lock up too easily as it is... My car has an OEM genuine black tag master cylinder that hasn't failed from new.
Cheers for the reply calum. I was referring to your comment "on the conversions I have done I've changed the rear cylinders so the brake pedal travel was reduced."
What size disc brakes were fitted for the conversion? And a. What size rear cylinders were Originally there? and b. What size cylinders installed to rectify the long pedal?
I've done 8.4 to 7.5 inch disc and drum to 7.5 disc.
When we went to 7.5 disc we went down a size (possibly 3/4 to 5/8th I can't remember 100% though unfortunately). Ive had to play around with sizes, so 3/4 down a size to 5/8th then to the next down again, to try and get the pedal travel reduced to an acceptable level. As I said above, the latest conversion was a drum braked 1980 reg car with black tag Master Cylinder, I just done the front conversion and didn't change the rear cylinders, it passes Mots with ease
@@cal844 Cheers mate
So what torque do you tighten that castle nut to?
Hi Cole, I purchased the excact same kit from Minispares last fall and I have assembled them over winter, should note I have not introduced brake fluid to the system yet. At 27:12 you mentioned they are one sided, I wanted to ask why that is as I have put mine on the other way around with the bleed nipples down. I don't see any difference in the calipers other than the bleed nipples being either ontop or under the calipers, wich is why I put mine on with the nipples facing down simply to make bleeding them easier. Please advice if this is in fact totally wrong, I'd love to know before I bleed them and finish the job off :-)
Hey man! The nipples must be pointed up or you are never going to get the brakes properly bled. The main reason is, air will rise so when bleeding you don't want to be fighting basic physics while doing an already annoying job. :-)
Great video. Is the installation the same process if I want to make it rear disc brakes?
Mostly the same. There are only a couple rear disc brake sets on the market but the process requires a new hub in the back which is all part of those kits.
Cole, how do you feel about rear disk brakes for the mini, using a proportioning valve to apply pressure to the front disks first. Is it a bad idea? I had this setup on my first mini, but when I mentioned the idea to another you tuber he said there is no weight over the rear end and that would cause it to spin. What is your opinion?
its not to apply pressure first , but proportionally , its in the name.
All good , although I wouldn’t recommend hitting the end of the drive shaft with a metal hammer to get it back on .😮
This could damage the cv shaft or the threads , meaning you won’t get the nut back on!
Use a plastic / wooden or rubber mallet or put the nut on the threads first.
Other than that a good video, cheers 🍻
That hammer was a rubber mallet if you pause the video. 👍🏼 🙂
beating the new bearing in with a steel punch is non to clever either , brass drift needed ,,, again working on brakes with a shifter does not instil confidence .
hello great work. can I know if mounting the disc brake kit increases the wheel width compared to traditional brakes?
I am not sure of the exact measurement but all disc brake kits do widen the front wheel base by a bit. To align the rear wheels a spacer would be required.
Each side sits 1 inch further out. They make drums with the spacer built in as used on the later disk brake cars.
I have Morris mini minor 1960. Can Morris mini minor do this converting?
Will this work with a 1971 mini 1000?
could you have put the brake fluid tube pincher on before unscrewing it?
Yeah that’s an option as well. Keeps you from losing as much fluid.
You also need to change the brake hoses, drum brakes use shorter ones.
The hoses are adequate for this application. I tested the wheel at full turn and they were 👌🏼 however these may have been replaced in the past
Very True : Drum hoses are about 1/2 inch shorter, and in this case the hoses were already replaced with Disk hoses knowing this car would be upgraded in the future= new hoses already installed.
Wer do u buy the disc brakes kit ?
This one time at Band Clamp,,,,,
Would a brake servo need to be installed as well when doing this type of conversion; drum to disc?
A servo isn’t required for the conversion but the brake bias valve absolutely is. A servo will make actuation a little easier though.
I think the 4 pot caliper helps a lot as there's a lot more surface area so the pressure doesn't need to be as high. With a cheaper, single pot and floating caliper the pressures would no doubt have to be higher.
with the 4 pot set up you have, are you able to run 10" rims?
Yes that’s one of the most desirable reasons for running these. Note it’s the 7.5in 4 pot brake kits that fit 10 inch wheels.
What's an assembally?
If the brake hoses are more than a few years old, you should replace them at the same time. They can swell up inside, and cause hard braking, or brakes to drag. Symptoms that may inspire someone to swap from drums to disks in the first place.
will you need a brake booster now you have fitted disc brakes ?
No a brake booster isn't required for disc brakes but it will certainly improve the braking experience. I am considering adding one in an upcoming video. But they definitely are not required.
Do you have to replace the master cylinder??
Nope that’s not required.
I have a question about the conversion kit. Is there a conversion kit for the rear drum brakes as well? Or do you run it with discs on the front and drums on the rear?
There are conversion kits out there but the stopping power is about the same with discs v drums in the rear and its more about lightening the rear hubs if you’re swapping to discs back there. The OG drums in the rear are more than adequate for most all minis. I personally run drums in the back.
@@classicminidiy Thank you for the fast reply. Thats what I have imagined as the only conversion kits i found for the rear are for racing
Get a pneumatic wrench/gun that works like a champ to remove those nuts
treat yourself to a few spanners instead of using a shifter , and a brass drift not a steel punch for bearings and life will be easier. but not a bad video at all. Also be wise to mention that you can just do a spring swap in the proportioning valve too ... in case some folk dont know. Also your ball joints are too loose , you can see them move as you handle the hub ,, they wont last a month in real life driving, you should just be able to move them with finger and thumb , not have them flop.
hello friend, what manual do you use to assemble?
Hey I used the manual attached to my shoulders. :-)
I don't remember if it comes with instructions or not actually.
Personally I would have removed the whole drive shaft and replace the inner boot as well as well as re-grease it. One day it's going to need replacement, and it might have wrecked the inner CV joint with grit and contamination getting in. Then the owner will think, why didn't I replace the inner CV boot when I dad the chance? Of course, with the drive shaft out it's a whole lot easier to remove the outer CV as well.
Yes, you have to replace the oil and filter, but the cost is minimal compared to a job like this and fresh oil is never a bad idea.
Hi Cole, what wheels are those?
I believe they are JBW cosmics
Do we need a Booster / Servo ???
A brake servo is not required to run disc brakes on your mini, however many people do like the added braking strength with the servo. I have always run without one and have been very happy with the performance.
Is 7.5 alright for street use with 12x7 wheels?
Yes 7.5s will fit fine all the way down to 10inch wheels. However 12x7 likely will rub. That’s a really wide wheel. Any reason you wanna go that wide?
@@classicminidiy The 8.4" disc brake was brought in on the 1974 1275GT Clubman when 12" wheels were fitted so the 7.5" work no matter the diameter of the rim. (Not sure why someone needs 7" wide rims to be honest but hey ...). And if you have 12" wheels why use 7.5" brakes which were only marginally better than a well set up TLS drum system unless you have those 4 pot calipers? (the 7" Cooper ones were worse!).
When fitting that top steering are did you put the locating dowels in as i didnt see that. When using that type of joint splitter best keep the nut on incase it damages the thread.
Hey Mark, Locating dowel I am not sure what you are referring to there? However you are totally right, taking that nut off was a mistake on my part, I am lucky the threads were not damaged on the tie rod.
mark piper you can see them on the hub at around 25:40
@@MiniMattTV nope cant say i can ☹
mark piper oh, think I was seeing the holes thinking that was the dowels. they get stuck in the steering arm, easy to not really notice that they’re separate but I’m sure Cole did a good job 👍
Oh the little round bushings between the steering bracket on the hub! Yes those were installed off screen when I did my hub work. I really should have showed that.
The front brake hoses should have been replaced with the correct length ones, shorter?!
These hoses are brand new and were already exchanged with longer hoses.
thats not how you pack bearings properly, blob grease in palm and work bearing into blob unil its forced through
I see a 123 ignition... are you still using this one ?
That’s been sold on since I’m using EFI on my new engine. I was really happy with it when I did run it though.
@@classicminidiy oh yes nevermind ;p
ouch,,,,that front axle stand isnt in the best place.... you just bent the front subframe putting it there!!! put it under where the front arm attaches to the subframe...rookie mistake...
17:08 *No!*
No! No! No! Do *NOT* add extra grease. The amount of grease in a CV joint is fairly precisely calibrated and too much can lead to overheating.
And more especially, if you don't add exactly the same type of grease you are doing yourself no favours either. The last time I did this job the recommended grease for a CV joint was either molybdenum or graphite based - if you add any old wheel bearing grease you are asking for trouble. Make sure you use the same type and rating of *CV JOINT* grease, NOT wheel bearing grease. Ye gods.
13:00 Oh come on! Why didn't you put the pincher on before undoing the coupling!!! 🙄
Very sloppy workmanship tip-iCal back yard job, & you forgot to refit the copper washer on the brake hose & you need to use correct size spanners not the adjustable to avoid rounding off the nuts, also thats not the correct way to install the split pin on the drive shaft.
taper roller bearings are not tightened in this fashion they should be tightened then backed off to the next notch in the castle nut they need some end float
I will rebuild my drums and drive slower?? unless you want to start a Go Fund Me page for disc brakes...I didn't think so..