Assembly begins on our classic Mini Cooper S 1275cc engine
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- Опубликовано: 19 дек 2021
- Looks like Davin has everything he needs to get this 1965 Austin Mini Cooper S 1275cc engine back together... or so he thinks! Assembly begins with camshaft bearings and the camshaft. Then it's onto checking the main bearings and rod bearings for oil clearance, which is when Davin realizes we have the wrong rod bearings. Oops! That doesn't stop him from getting the crankshaft installed as well as assembling the valves and springs into the cylinder head.
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Monday ain't so bad when Hagerty drops a rebuild video
Oh yea!!!
You'll love driving this when you get it on the road, like driving a go-kart, possibly the most fun car ever, everyone waves at you! Well they do in London anyway, and it fits down the cycle lanes too, oops did I say that?
And remember to give those valve springs a light wack with a soft blow hammer to confirm the keepers are holding correctly.
Cheers bro
Lol that Engine Power printout sheet is like an old friend now.
P.S. y'all forgot the reading a micrometer link
I like using plastigage for checking bearing clearance, simple, accurate and doesn't need any expensive measuring equipment.
Perfect lesson on discovery of the wrong size crank bearings. Much more helpful (and realistic) than having everything just fall into place of the sake of making a video. Thank you!!!
A quote (roughly) from a book about tuning the Mini "Tuning for Speed, Tuning for Economy"; "It is not uncommon for a well tuned Mini to completely strip it's intermediate gears". Enjoying your videos, bringing back teen-aged memories of stripping down and rebuilding my Mini engines. Didn't have an engine hoist, made one out of two ladders, a 2x4, some rope and block and tackle, worked well but I was much, much younger then. My Cooper S had to have new rocker bushing installed and drilled, they were cast, my Dad took them to work and got them done over a couple of weeks, in the mean time, I had two complete rocker arm assembles, pressed steel type, prone to breaking in a 1275cc eng., in the boot just in case one to the rockers in the engine broke, which happened several times. I could remove and replace a rocker arm assembly and be on my way in ten minutes. I did it all, rebuilt the engine, transmission and replaced the clutch, all in my Mum's laundry room! Even did some minor body work. You wouldn't believe the corning ability of a Mini with hydrolastic suspension lacking fluid, had a leak, fixed it, let the other side down to drive the 25 miles to a dealer to get both sides refilled. I have so many stories... I wanted a Mini in my 30's to 40's, finally found one aged 50, after getting in and out, I realized that I was no longer as flexible as I used to be, drive a RAV4 now, love it but not even close to my Mini Cooper S. Good luck with your rebuild, stay safe.
Did not know these little guys were pushrod! That's pretty cool. Simple stuff lasts forever
Almost all the Brit stuff was pushrod. OHC was for high performance rigs (which the Mini was not designed to be) ... until the Japanese took that config main stream.
I "shrink" each cam bearing by leaving them in a cooler of dry ice overnight prior to installation. Liquid nitrogen is more efficient, but dry ice is logistically easier in every aspect (and exponentially less expensive). No need to drive any frozen cam bearings--each slips into place and each expands to fit within a few seconds.
In 1966, the Cooper S took the first 9 places at Bathurst, beating out the V8 Studebaker amongst others. In 1967, Ford Australia released the "Mustang Bred" 289 Falcon XR GT, which bettered the Cooper's best lap time by a full 7 seconds.
Between 1960 and 1972, the Mini won 32 rallies around the world, including three wins at Monte Carlo. Should have been 4 but in 1966 the first 3 positions held by Minis were ruled out as the French found an 'issue' with the headlights so the 4th placed Citroen could win. For the first Monte win the cars had the 1071cc engines. The 1275cc came afterwards.
@@1chish Thanks man, great info. I vaguely remember something about a bogus disqualification.
it’s amazing that the Cooper S is competitive at all, given Bathurst is a power dependent track. Unless Bathurst in the 60s had a different layout than Bathurst of today.
@@devandrasimanjuntak1646 Depends how you define 'power dependent'. Having a big, heavy cart sprung beast that needs to slow down as it wallows around corners needs a big V8 to make up for the speed lost in that poor handling at corners. Minis are lighter, have brilliant suspension and so can go full chat round bends which means big power isn't needed. They just use the power they have all the time.
That thing looks like it was painted with axle grease lol. It looks kinda neat.
I was thinking one of a few things…either a) it was plasti-dipped, b) it was powder-coated REALLY thick… or c) HOW did they make an engine block out of creamed spinach with an iron nougat core??
@@user-yi3ox8wy4k Right-o!
@@user-yi3ox8wy4k yum!
Just an old car thing.
They got the colour and the shine spot on, even down to the hand painted look. (And not in a bad way)
If it ever gets faded, the oil leaks will help with that! 😂
My dad was a machinist who did all his own auto repairs. As such, I was raised in the garage and, as a kid, did all my own bike and car repairs. But I left that behind years ago and now use my “office hands” to make appointments so that others can do most of my mechanical work.
This series is so meaningful in terms of my ability to remain in touch with my “working with my hands” past where eye protection and “blue gloves” were unknown. I still dabble with bikes and a race car, but I was always a amateur “component mechanic” … good at installing carburetors and brakes, not so good at pulling cranks.
These videos take me back to my youth in dad’s garage. Thanks for this content. It is meaningful beyond words.
Dave in Seattle
Thank you master Davin for how long for the pass few years of your vlogging this instructional, experience and expertise about in the rebuilding engine even vintage and new models
Always sadly reassuring that even the experts sometimes go, "Oops!" :)) One thing about depending upon tear-down photos... They should be good if the engine has never been rebuilt - essentially if everything is just as it was from the factory. But if some yayhoo already rebuilt it without the same care Davin is using, it would be put together the same wrong way a second time. No?
I just commented the exact same comment.
I only added that, factory assembly can be incorrect as well.
When I built these motors I always took to the heads with the die grinder to open the ports and remove some of the shroud in the combustion chamber to get it breathing better. follow with a plane to restore compression. I hope the is a bit more lift & duration in the ca, it needs all the breathe it can get. good job .
thank you for showing and explaining the bore gauge, im working on a cat 3204 diesel and now i understand what gauge i need.
Hagerty has my vote as the best insurance to have on my vintage race cars! Thank you for the great videos!
I love watching your engine rebuild videos. Thank you, cheers from France.
I looked up Mini Cooper S Mk1,s value in the UK up to about $50 000GBP, considerably MORE than when New in mid 60,s, Yes they race at Bathurst and WIN, they also rallied, and No Doubt raced in Britain, with great success
what they lack in outright speed is more than made up for, by cornering, they are handle like a go kart do not lean going thru corners at high speed, never ever underestimate these little machines, they are deceptively quick!!!!
So astounding how tiny that motor is when Davin places his hand on it
The thing about this vid is that Bmc/Bl would never have put anything like this much love when the engine was originally built. So thank you for doing such. And the contrast of the A series and the big V8 on the engine stand is quite funny.
When I was in the business I rebuilt dozens of these "MOWOG" engines and I was always in a state of wonder as to how these little devils powered so many different vehicles. They were certainly not designed for a long life but they were designed to be easily rebuilt. The big failing in the Mini though was the fact that the transmission and the engine both used the same oil since the trans was actually the engines oil pan. All those metal particles created from the trans syncro rings and bushings were free to get into the engine.
There is no "link" for the tech tip on reading the micrometer... I am referring to the time slot of 5:46.
I always just use my eyecrometer 😆
Not Knee surgery, but back surgery, two times in 3 days. Mostly recovered. should be able to get back out there after the 1st.
I used to hate snap gauges until I learned the proper way to use them.
I really enjoy watching these videos Dave, I never was much of an engine guy, but I learn something new every time I watch. What is your background? It's obvious that to you an engine is n engine is an engine. It appears that there is no part of a motor vehicle that you are afraid to tackle.
Chippendale dancer.
Glad to see amateurs affect the only ones who make some mistakes!!👍👍 Great re build!!
Loving watching your back catalogue! One note, please could you continue to number your redline updates? Makes watching them so much easier after the fact.
Didn't have to make it so damn personal at the end there. God damnit. Imma head out... haha
Nice to see Hagerty is doing a Mini. Check out Project Binky for a much more radical build & very entertaining.
Yes, but unlike Binky. This Mini will actually see the light of day THIS century.
@@mobiledevto Hahaha! Isn't that the truth. The silver lining to that is that by the time I've watched the whole series, I can start all over again & it's like new because I've long since forgotten how it began.
@@frankpratt529 make the noise 😊
Yang di tunggu - tunggu video merakit mesin mini cooper akhirnya muncul..kerja bagus
That is some nice machining work and bad luck with the rod bearings!
But on that distributor jackshaft you engaged in the cam before the crankshaft went in that will have to come out! Basically you time the camshaft first and then slide the jackshaft in noting it rotates as it goes in using 5/16" UNF bolt to thread into the jackshaft to stop it becoming part of the gearbox! Ultimately you want the rotor arm pointing to "1 o'clock" @ TDC Compression No 1 piston
I always remembered that the Distributor could be rotated to match TDC, so it doesn't matter where the shaft is fitted, once you set the camshaft and Engine to TDC, you can rotate the distributor separately to TDC then adjust for your timing. Mind you its been over 30 years since i rebuilt my 1000cc Mini engine so my memory might be on the fuzzy side.
@@TheLastSock it can go in anyway if you like and then find TDC compression stroke number 1 and set dizzy up from there BUT it ideally goes in a certain way which makes ignition lead orientation neater
Nice clean shop!
Yup, fell for the old Rod Bearing trick. You new guys....sheeesh
Enjoying the rebuild 👍
Your camera man is killing it Davin,best engine builds on you tube.
Great job, very clear in the explanations, I will definitely watch all the videos
Finished shift, 3am... Hagerty assembly video? I'm in, cheers mate!
Man, is he was my teacher in high school id pay way more attention.
Ok, who's got the bionic knee Davin is talking to here?
*Merry Christmas to you and yours, Davin & Co.!*
- Ed on the Ridge
you can still buy full mini bodys in UK they still have the machines to press body pannels see you tube
Rebuilding an engine is a lot more fun outdoors in the snow.
Love the feel good oldie style music!
Can't wait for the final build video ! ( Don't get me wrong , I do like the videos before , but I enjoy the final video )
Another engine almost back together. Great work Davin & Hagerty!
Happy New Year! 😊 wish you all the best, strong health, success and prosperity.
You as well, Serdar!
When one uses photos to document the pre-disassembly phase that you depend on as a correct reference. You’re assuming the guy who last assembled the engine, regardless of whether it was in the factory, or a rebuilder, assembled it correctly.
How did you teach the valves and springs to walk? The time lapse segments on this channel is second to none!
Love this stuff keep them coming
hey not to be rude but with the snap gauges.. you loosen the top part of the gauge, pinch the anvils to where the are smaller then the bore you are looking to check. lightly tighten the top hat. then put in the bore and loosen the top hat again it will snap to the bore size. from there tilt the gauge letting the anvils get a little bigger in the bore . lightly tighten the top hat and with one motion tip the stem in the opposite direction you had it leaning. this will push the anvils into the snap gauge until it reaches the smallest size of the bore. that is how you get the most accurate measurement from those.
I think you mean "the largest size of the bore".
@@theslimeylimey yes sorry
I don't always see.
I don't always see when I see what I see.
Taking a deep breath,
opening my mind wider,
digging deeper,
earning more,
being careful where I share my trust.
Might make for a better day.
Why? Because?
I don't always see when I see what I see.
Bad is a part of good.
I'm working on a better day, are you?
Sincerely,
Jekelex
Happy holidays.
love this rebuild
I can swear I've seen on your channel _carburetors_ bigger than this little green block...
Espero ansiosamente por novos vídeos,top essas montagens!
Over on HREIRL 's channel, were a skilled Mini engine builder is doing a race engine build up currently, he advises only using valve seals on the intakes, as the exhaust valves/guides do not benefit from the seals (no suction to pull oil down the guides) and actually benefit from small amount of oil reaching the guide bore/valve stem wear surfaces.
BTW, what happened to the block gouges in a previous video? Did they machine out?
They showed a video before this one where the block gouges were machined out with no issues 👍🏼
@@CatchMeOffroad Thx, found it now....all good.
think your snap gauge technique needs a bit of work. you're supposed to put the gauge into the bore slightly skewed, lock it, then pull the handle to the side so the plunger is pushed into the body as it squares up in the bore, when it goes loose as you go past square so you can pull it out, and it should be set to the smallest diameter
Perhaps you should just realize there's more than one way to skin a cat.
I reckon Davin's built a few (hundred) engines in his time and might know what
he's doing.
This is the technique I've always used in tool making/machining. It is tricky to manually position a telescoping gauge perfectly perpendicular at exactly centerline and then lock and remove it without disturbing it. The prelock and sweep method takes care of all that for you and gives more reliable measurements imho.
"you probably got lots of parts to put together"
I feel attacked.
AEG163.. casting Cooper S Mk1 Head.. ... NICE... the best performance head.. now rare.. as the valves where so big the heads cracked.. and they use mk2 12G940 heads... NON standard single valve springs.. they came STANDARD with Double valve springs from the factory
What do you use for assembly lube? The red stuff you brushed on for the cam
I wish I could take this mini home.
I'm digging it.
tHank you. The clean working environment is a future goal! Maybe New Year's Resolution for 2022.......naaaa...but soon!
No mention of crankshaft end float which is straight forward, but would really appreciate your opinion on Camshaft endfloat and its' retainer plate???
Dope intro!
Good one. It’s coming together. 😎👍🇨🇦
I find it interesting that many European gasoline engines use 2 piece oil rings. When I first saw a rebuild of one (VW VR6) I said "Who puts diesel rings in a gasoline engine?"
I'm much more used to seeing American and Japanese engines getting rebuilt.
Some parts companies make special piston and ring sets for European gasoline engines, but use 3 piece oil rings. I find that kind of odd as well.
Micrometering the oil clearances of the crank and the rods is critical. A friend of mine assembled his Honda engine just like it came from the machine shop, trusting they machined correctly. The idiot destroyed his engine at first start-up; oil starvation of crank bearings.
That engine looks like a toy. Merry Christmas to you all
Davin has every tool and measuring devise NONE of us has. LoL
An artist 👍🏻
Love it!
I’ve had a bad experience with Rod bearings on a Fiat 1500cc as a DIYer
long story short I was measuring number one journal and assuming that from the factory they are all the same…… big mistake
Number one was standard BUT another one was 10 over another one was 30 over
which is why out of the crate the motor was originally sold at a very special price because the factory had issues during production and used different size Rod bearings to avoid waste and get the motors out the door and they were being sold at one point in time as exchange over the counter swaps…….
So when you go to recondition one of them unless you measure every journal you could be caught
Needless to say once it was running it didn’t take very long for the bottom end to be knocking its balls off and the whole thing had to come out again……..!!!!!!
So cool. Good job! Hi from Russia 😎
For a special build like this I would not have chosen a (for classic mini standards) relatively unknown camshaft manufacturer.
Great vid!!
How did you know I just had knee surgery !? Its slowing me down but who else is gunna get my car done !!!
Hey , why don't you use the plastigage for clearance measurement ? Simple and easy . Thanks for all these incredible videos
Those have some downsides, doing one engine per season box lasts for a long time, when you run the shop it just adds to cost. They are not the most accurate, when you already have bore/snap gages and micrometer's set you'll get better results (and you will have to have those to measure other things that you cannot with plastigage). Cleaning remains is sometimes cumbersome. As far as I remember there are different thicknesses of plastigage strips depending on clearance measured, so doing many engines you have to have few boxes.
Back in the 1980's and early 1990's, plastigage was what we were taught to use in school and we never questioned it. I have been out of the business since 1995, and kind of lost touch, but now everyone on RUclips does the measurements and math instead of plastigage, so I have the same question.
@@SeanKStephens I use plasti gauge on my mini engine rebuilds and never have an issue
How did you orient the distributor drive gear without having the camshaft timed to the crank?
the block design looks to be a austin A type… datsun used this engine as a base for the Nissan A type engine.. I can see why hot rod tweaks were coming.. loads of material to work with
9:08 You need Undersized bearings, not oversized. Getting that wrong will delay you again when you measure .024" of clearance or worse if you just assemble it and realize you have rod knock at every hole
I think he means +10 to the thickness of the bearing which is technically oversized.
@@closeenoughmicron The bearing would actually be oversized if it had been welded up and reground which would cause utter confusion when ordering bearings
Nothing on the end float of the crank! STD thrust bearing can be fettled with. Important very much so...
السلام عليكم انت مهندس رائع استفدت منك الكثير. 🥰
Shame about the rod bearings. The expression I like to use is Sustained Forward Motion.
Here's another cool tip regarding micrometer, buy a digital one :).
With the snap gauge it looked like you were using a right angle (the end of the snap gauge) to measure the curve of the big end !, wouldn't this give a false reading ?
I also noticed on the spark plug holes where the plug seats there was paint is it a good idea to remove this or leave it in place ?
Yeah, spherical ends is the the right kind of snap gauge.
You should also use gloves when measuring with a micrometer, the heat from your hands will make the mic pull a few thou outwards. Maybe not so critical on smaller stuff but on big micrometers it definetly makes a difference
@@mnaeslund No, maybe a few tenths, but nowhere near a few thou.
@@MrTexasDan You can say that again 😊
@@Jesse-B that again
@@MrTexasDan 😅
You cut the valve seats during the rebuild, right?
Then you need to check the installed valve heights.
Gotta have that green paint code
Still no idea the reason for the brass plugs in the head and block - and why the block plug 'problem' wasn't addressed?
I moved from Los Angeles to Bullhead City Arizona, my classics are still in Los Angeles so I have nothing here to work on 😞
Could the main and rod bearings be checked with plastigauge and did you lap the valves at some point earlier?
very qualitative video! which brand of red grease is used on the crankshaft?
How did the machine shop repair the two damaged areas on the top of the block?
Hi, great show. A friend is using a similar Mini Copper in historic rallyes. Great car.. I just wonder how things are going with the Ford race car?
ohhhh yes I saw it, I saw it... using an "Engine power" build sheet. it's ok though... I use them too...
10:35 I'm surprised to see that these nuts are mounted without any washers?
I would have thought that the cooper S would have had double springs on the cylinder head
Did you fit the valve guide seals?
No mentioned how the deck of the block was dealt with. ie, the grooves on the top.
We did in the previous episode at the machine shop.
No link shown for me about the tech link for micrometers
I didn’t see a crank thrust bearing go in. Or did I miss it?
That is one mini engine