Moving a car by pushing on the tire is gonna make me the favorite son in law. My FIL is a mechanic for 60 years and we still push on body work. I am gonna ace this! Thanks a bunch!
I love this video, I have been a ship mechanic for 10 years and I have work hacks that when I show them to a young 3rd engineer or a fitter struggling with a job I blow their mind, there is no substitution for experience of finding the easyest way to do a job, not the "correct" way, the least time wasting way, great advice Wizard.
Mcraveo, I was an industrial hydraulics tech. for 16+yrs built custom, one off machinery for the offshore oil/gas industry. I became known as Dr. James, had my on little 'tricks of the trade'......
I too have 10+ years working on ships. Sometimes assisting the outside machinists as and Boilermakers helper welding for them. Common sense is a valuable tool.
Method I’ve used for decades to loosen stuck wheels. Loosen the bolts/nuts a turn. Drive car a foot and hit the brakes. Doesn’t take much force. Works first time every time. On old vws/fists and Japanese cars that obviously haven’t been rotated in years. I don’t even try to take them off before I Loosen slightly. Move it and Clunk. Then I lightly grease the the hub to try to prevent it next spring.
Dave: I appreciate that you care enough about "us out here" to share tips that improve how we maintain cars and do other work for ourselves and our families. Thank you.
I love that the Wiz delivers these words of wisdom with the same amount of disgust and sarcasm as any shop teacher telling the 25 assholes in 4th bell the same lesson for the umpteenth time hoping it gets through their thick skulls😂😂😂 And remember kids Wisdom grows,fingers don’t”
Sir. I have never seen one of your videos ever before. I must say: YOU ARE THE BEST!!! You don’t get excited. You give total information. Great common sense tips. Favorite product names. You actually show tools and parts that you need by holding them up to the camera where WE CAN SEE THEM,which is uber important and most video makers don’t bother to do! In other words-YOU ARE A GREAT TEACHER! That’s the highest compliment I can give someone. Thank you!
In regard to #4, I've seen a lot of mystery intermittent electrical issues instantly disappear when the battery cables were tightened down fully. I work at AutoZone and the very first thing I always do when testing batteries is try to wiggle the connectors by hand. You should not be able to do this by hand no matter how much pain and bleeding you can handle. This is actually a frequent problem when batteries are replaced and cable connector bolts bottom out before a full connection is made due to the new battery using skinnier terminal posts than the factory battery.
Loved the tips on finding a clunk in the front-end, removing seized rims, brake rotors, and the extra-long slim ratcheting wrench, and moving a car by pushing the tires--brilliantly simple! As a DIY-er, those were super-fantastic tips, but the 3-stage rivet removal technique takes the prize. I have not seen any other video show that yet--thanks so much Wizard!
Tip 8: Rotors and drums generally have two extra holes tapped in them to put bolts in that will press against the wheel hub and press the drum or rotor off when the bolts are tightened
@@itsnotfunny8257 The parking brake on some models is automatic when the car is in park. Some people might not realize it. The automatic feature can be deactivated with a scan tool.
@@briang.valentine4311Is there another way? Disconnecting battery or something? (Seems like that ought *not* to work because if the battery dies the car rolls… maybe a two step process?)
Regarding tip #5 using the door as a lever to find clunks. If it is an older GM product, first you will need to isolate the clunk coming from the worn out hinge on the door itself!
This tips are the best "little solutions for BIG POBLEMS" you can find in any place. "Experience is the mother of every science" and this gentleman is a living proof of that. Thanks a lot for this TIPS...
11:00 mark. It drives me crazy watching Barrett Jackson when they push cars on/off the stage! I’ve seen so many cars with subtle dents caused by the palms of peoples hands!
@@wholeNwon I was also thinking the same thing, especially on an older GM with those heavy ass doors. On the 3rd gen F bodies for instance, it was nearly impossible to find one that didn't have at least one door sagging.
I've been doing repair work, fabrication since 1970, it takes many years to learn how to handle tools properly and many more to master the little tricks that save time. Learning about leverage is one of the most important things for handling tools, and using heat to loosen fasteners. Being from Michigan you must learn how to beat rust. I'm at the age that I forget the little tips and tricks so thanks for the reminders.
@@andrewallen9537 I had a similar issue! In my old Civic Si 2007, There was this NON STOP rattling, banging and squealing coming from the pass side wheel well! Turns out, it was my Ex G/f! She was still stuck in the shock when I ran her over! LMAO!
I once owned an 82 mazda B-2000 pickup. Easy to get to the starter but have no idea how many times I used the jack handle to bump the solenoid. I rode in with one of our electricans from a week long road job and had to bump the solenoid to start my truck, the guy laughed so much my sides even huurt. He said, 'james, your a mechanic, why don't you just fix the starter. My answer 'why, I got a jack handle.....lol
I needed to push a car today and remembered this video. IT"S SO MUCH EASIER to push the car by pushing a wheel! I've seen people doing it on TV, but never actually gave it a second thought. Don't know how to explain it, it's counterintuitive but it just works.
It's simple, actually: pushing the car is a 1:1 ratio, let's say 1" to 1" to push it. BUT, push on the wheel, and your motion is expressed by the distance from your hand to the axle...whis isn't going to be 1:1 compared to the distance the car moves - it will be less due to the fulcrum, or lever effect...your hand may travel even twice as far, meaning you are in a 'lower gear' than 1:1.
RE The battery terminals. Reminds me of something that happened when i was a teenager. My dad went to look at a car for sale as a non-runner. It was a Renault 25 V6. A luxury car over here in europe that was popular in the 80's. My dad took a look at it, and the owner said the "AA" had even sent a guy to look at it and they gave up. So it was a non-runner. We paid the money. Hooked up tow ropes and towed it away. My dad pulls over about 3 roads away. Pops the bonnet (hood). And shows me that the battery is in backwards !!. Took it out, flipped it around and sure enough it fired up almost straight away. He was so happy as it was really cheap and yet a very nice car. And yet a trained mechanic didnt spot that !.
I always enjoy watching other people's tips and tricks. Learn a ton of new things that always come in handy. I've got one for you if you are out and need to change a flat that is stuck like the Cadillac. Since you most likely don't have a dead blow in the trunk we got to use what's on hand. The spare. It never has failed me within one or two blows. The weight does almost all the work too. A bonus is that if it's a low car that you can't really get access to the back on the side of the road you can hit it along the bottom face and there is very little worry about damaging a rim. At most you may need to clean a little rubber mark from it.
Not just loose battery cables but dirty, oxidized and/or corroded battery terminal connections! Clean your battery and terminal connections TWICE a year people! Once in the spring and once in the fall. It should look like shiny metal using a battery terminal brush.
Another video that should be #1 on youtube! Great info Wizard, and wonderful that you share it! Many mechanics play by the knowledge is power rule, and are not to be trusted. Your clients are truly blessed by having an honest mechanic.
Hi Wizard! I’m having a bad day, but I always watch your videos when I’m angry or upset since your videos calm me down and I love to watch them. You and your family have a great day and a happy new year! 👍
I appreciate the clarification on my CVT fluid change. Love your videos, and keep helping people out with the maintenance that need to be done. People who want to keep their vehicles healthy into the 300k mileage. I’m for sure following your expert advice. Appreciate everything you do CAR WIZARD!!!
This is my favorite series on this channel. I was waiting for the classic wizard humor, "ohhhhh sorrry!" We got a brief moment in tip #8 but it was as good as the normal one. 😀
Loved round one, loving round two! After 18 years I still picked up two tips. I was going to get those wrenches anyway. Now I can help the wizards at the same time.
Actually learned something kinda new here even though I do the very same thing as you do for a living. The trick to rock the car on the ground to find a clunk was something I had never thought of. But still I have found pretty much all the clunks I've had to diagnose. On balljoints I use channel locks (if they fit) and try to squeeze the side of the cup on the other end and the nut on the other - if there is any movement then the balljoint is bad. This has been very useful on to diagnose those upper control arms on VAG cars with the multilink setup (A4, Passat 3B, A6 C5 and so on). Gentle fiddle with a tire iron on bushings if not visibly broken also has found many tired parts. Anti roll bar drop links with balljoints on both ends - if it can be turned from side to side easily when the car is on a lift then they are at least near failure if not failed already. Channel locks work here also. Many many years ago when I was still learning and gaining the basic experience I even tried removing the drop links and drove around the block - the clunk was gone. I had the new parts on the table but I wanted to be sure before I fitted them because the old ones did not feel so loose to hand even when removed (I did not yet use the channel lock method at that time). Though on some cars the anti roll bar might hit something else in the suspension if the car is driven without the droplinks so this is something to think first before doing it. On wheel bearings my methods are trying if there is any play with the wheel on, then spin the wheel and listen and last I grab the coil spring and then spin the wheel. If I can feel "judder" on the spring then the bearing is bad. A few rare cases have been where I had to use a mechanics stethoscope on the knuckle near the bearing while spinning the wheel to hear the bearing noise. I am sure this is all clear to you but if someone going through these comments might pick up an idea from here and then I didn't write this for nothing :)
All I do for tip #1 is I have a set of reasonably priced box end ratcheting wrenches about 8" long and a few pieces of scrap pipe that will fit over them. Slide the pipe over the end you aren't using, put a bit of duct tape or electrical tape to hold it and VOILA, save yourself $180 on a wrench set you may not need that often. (And the short ones come in handy for lots of stuff)
I have frequently watched inexperienced techs struggle with a job, so I wander over, show the the best way to do something, and then wander back to what I was doing. This leads to one of three results the next time they do that job. 1) They remember. 2) They remember "something", and come ask me to show them again, which I gladly do. 3) They make the same mistake again,. For #3, I let them struggle. Eventually, I might ask them if they remember what I showed them last time, but some lessons have to be learned the hard way.
@@crowttubebot3075 Hats off to you sir. You are the tech/mechanic that new techs need to get to know and have the privilege of working with or at the same shop. I would have loved to have worked with the attitude that you practice with those who need help or those who come to you for help. I had the opposite where a question about help or a visual inspection to estimate a problem or job found part of a oil change when I was new was met with the tales of how this career is terrible and I will be broke and lonely if I choose to stay and that I need to find a better job or being told that is my problem. Also dealt with the techs who only want to be bothered when your trying to recommend gravy work and taking my ticket so they can clock it to get paid for the oil change I did because a oil change is beneath them but not when it came to getting paid for me doing it or a PDI because I was hourly and they were flat rate. I even tried to sweeten the pot by offering to do oil changes for them if I could in exchange for being shown how to do a alignment or brake flush with the machines etc.and was met with nothing. Again I think your work ethic is awesome and more senior techs are needed to practice this to help the next generation. Thank You
Now I know why you’re called the Wizard. You have some brilliant tips. Thank you so much for sharing your Awesome knowledge. Keep it coming Wizard Dave ! Bravo !!!
Great tips. For tip #8, if you're not sure of your hammer aiming skill, thread the wheel nuts back onto the studs so the top of the nut is flush with the top of the stud. That way, if you accidentally hit a stud you won't mar the thread. Where I live salt is used on the roads. Rotors and drums never come off easily. They're always rusty and usually need to be heated with a torch. I'm amazed at how clean the undersides of Wizard's vehicles look. No rust!!!
On the brake drum or rotors another trick is to look for screw holes and run the right size bolt in the holes evenly with a power tool. This method pulls the rotor without damging anything surrounding the rotor. also if the holes aren't there i use an air hammer in between the studs works like a charm.
I started my apprenticeship back in 78 as a collision repair/refinishing/coatings specialist. Your a good man. I like your "switch on,switch off"relay idea.. Its all good
I did find that shifter lock release in another youtube video when my shifter went bad. It saved me a ton of money in repairs, which turned out to be a fancy rubberband.
I just learned tip 3 getting shifter out of park when i did a timing belt on a Honda Odyssey about 5 months ago👍 Tip 5 just saved me a lot of wasted time, thank you!
Great video. Just went to turning wrenches about 2 years ago from construction. A few tips i already knew as most in the business, but most have been a real time saver. So thank you for taking time to make these videos. Greatly appreciated keep up the good work.
Grandpa was a mechanic, Dad is a retired mechanic I grew up in their shop, thought I knew everything, not quite, you're the man, definitely great thinker , thanks for sharing
14:25 - 16:15 -- Put the lug nuts [loosely] back onto the studs. This can save a lot of headache/heartache because, if a blow or two is poorly aimed, the nuts are [almost] always less expensive than the studs and are always -- ALWAYS! -- easier and quicker to replace. Ed, doing this for over sixty years
Having all of those northstars around is a nice chance to do a multi part video on boring out and doing the bolt conversion if you have the time and are up for it.
Every time I watch I learn that I have been doing something in the wrong manner. Now I can appreciate the experience of a professional 'wizard'. Thank you.
15:50 - For all these pro tips... Why not tell people to put the lugs back on the studs? So in case you do miss; you're hitting the lug instead of marring the thread, good tip as opposed to "Don't do that". This is exactly what I do, and that's exactly what I do.. Live in the rust belt so I know a thing or two about rusted on rotors.
Great mechanic with a wealth of experience coupled with common sense. Used the solenoid trick many times in the past - never hit the starter. Especially on a vehicle with the solenoid on the side not next to the starter. The rivet trick is a real winner.
I was pushing a mangled Swift at the salvage where I work, and we had "locked" the hood over the leftovers of the windshield... My head was in the way, when it came back... From there on, I either drag them by the A or B pillars, or the wheels.. Thanks for the tips, Wizard! Most of them I figured by myself, and some I got taught by my mentor, as you say.. But the rest are just aces up my sleeve!
Love your channel, but I got to say, tip no.5 - Look at tip No.6 - and say ''NO, STOP'' etc.. The force you are applying to the hinges using the length of that door as a lever is more than some hinge mountings can take. My old XYZ would have been damaged if someone had swung on the door - For sure. If it's a Mercedes then sure swing on the door.
I learnt 5 new tricks today. Thank you Wizard. Now one from me. 3.8 L GM engine. Had a no start in a parking lot close to home. Son tells me to pour hot water over the crank sensor down low. Got some hot water from a shop, poured it over the sensor and the car started and got me home. Next day I replaced the sensor. Would probably work on other cars too.
Helpful tip: I tell my guys every time you do ANYTHING with AC, moving it, disconnecting it or whatever, ALWAYS check to see if the AC works before repair. When you’re Noh is done and you’re doing exit checks, you will be scratching your head if the AC doesn’t blow cold and it opens it wide open for the customer to say it worked before it came in. Nice video!
FIRST ask the customer whether the AC works. If he says "yes", turn it ON and see whether it does before the customer leaves. If he has left, check the AC immediately, If it doesn't work, CALL him at once. Saves a LOT of potential problems and appearances in small claims court.
wholeNwon Yes, I bet that would work best for automotive with the customer more involved. There is a largely big gap between myself and the end user, dispatch, the rig crew, the operator and the person paying the bill. It’s less of a personal experience usually. We aren’t going to claims court over AC, it’s just not something we want to do, so we check.
@@smittymwsful Sure. I was thinking in terms of the average community auto repair shop. There are many other situations where it's impractical and insurance companies are often involved instead.
You mean NPRs Car Talk with “Click” and “Clack” the “Tappet” brothers?...this guy couldn’t hold a candle to them!! Don’t insult us. Those two guys were genius. This guy is just a competent mechanic. Knowledgeable but No sense of humor and culturally illiterate...not entertaining at all. Really. The guy verges on boring.
Every time I have any electrical issue the first thing I do is clean the batter cable connections. Daughters camry, driving it the Guage cluster kept cutting out along with the hvac controls and radio. The alternator was putting out 14volts and the battery 12.6. They both passed on the tester. I cleaned the battery posts. They had very mild corrosion. That fixed everything. It was just the battery cable connection. A caravan, the alternator failed so I bought a new one. It turned out to just be a loose battery cable connection on the back of the alternator. I check that every time the alternator fails from that day forward.
My wizard tip.. to find exhaust leaks, blow air through your tail pipe by BB using a leaf blower or vacuum on reverse. Now spray soapy water on areas of your exhaust you might expect a leak like at any joints or on your manifold. Any leaky spots will produce soap bubbles as the air comes out of them. Then you can likely patch it with various brands of welder tape on the pipe or welder putty on the manifold, like JB weld.
I had to do something similar to #10 when my handbrake stuck on. Got a 2*4 and a hammer and gave my brake drums a GENTLE tap. I could actually hear the mechanism let go from the inside of the hub. Great tips Wizard, thanks mate :-)
Thanks for making these Awesome Informative videos Wizard. I'm an apprentice mechanic and i watch your videos for good insight! i feel like I've gotten better as a mechanic since watching your Videos! also "Wizard Foot Lbs" haha classic! keep the videos coming Master!
Dang, that tip on removing rivets is gold.
Thanks Wizard!
Moving a car by pushing on the tire is gonna make me the favorite son in law. My FIL is a mechanic for 60 years and we still push on body work. I am gonna ace this! Thanks a bunch!
Agreed.
Tip #6 is probably the most useful, for any car, not only expensive luxury cars.
That's how I got my riding mower back to the garage when it threw a belt.
Still you gotta wonder why a car is too precious to be pushed by the body. I doubt it would work on an SUV.
@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 I tried it today , and it's so much easier, almost effortless.
@@bohdanked weird - but it didn't have a Chassis frame I'm guessing.
One of my fave automotive YT channels. He's built for this, dry humor, decades of experience and of course -- honesty.
I came here through Hoovie's channel. This dude is amazing.
and brutal sarcasm!
@@captainamericaamerica8090 ,,
it's not one or two times, it's like fifty.
Sorry Wizard, I screwed up the threads
I have massive respect for this guy. There are so few mechanics that really know what they're doing and have this level of work ethic.
I love this video, I have been a ship mechanic for 10 years and I have work hacks that when I show them to a young 3rd engineer or a fitter struggling with a job I blow their mind, there is no substitution for experience of finding the easyest way to do a job, not the "correct" way, the least time wasting way, great advice Wizard.
Mcraveo, I was an industrial hydraulics tech. for 16+yrs built custom, one off machinery for the offshore oil/gas industry. I became known as Dr. James, had my on little 'tricks of the trade'......
I too have 10+ years working on ships. Sometimes assisting the outside machinists as and Boilermakers helper welding for them. Common sense is a valuable tool.
Method I’ve used for decades to loosen stuck wheels. Loosen the bolts/nuts a turn. Drive car a foot and hit the brakes. Doesn’t take much force. Works first time every time. On old vws/fists and Japanese cars that obviously haven’t been rotated in years. I don’t even try to take them off before I Loosen slightly. Move it and Clunk. Then I lightly grease the the hub to try to prevent it next spring.
Oh SNAP, I never thotta that! Thx!
Dave: I appreciate that you care enough about "us out here" to share tips that improve how we maintain cars and do other work for ourselves and our families. Thank you.
I love that the Wiz delivers these words of wisdom with the same amount of disgust and sarcasm as any shop teacher telling the 25 assholes in 4th bell the same lesson for the umpteenth time hoping it gets through their thick skulls😂😂😂
And remember kids Wisdom grows,fingers don’t”
Sir. I have never seen one of your videos ever before. I must say: YOU ARE THE BEST!!! You don’t get excited. You give total information. Great common sense tips. Favorite product names. You actually show tools and parts that you need by holding them up to the camera where WE CAN SEE THEM,which is uber important and most video makers don’t bother to do! In other words-YOU ARE A GREAT TEACHER! That’s the highest compliment I can give someone. Thank you!
In regard to #4, I've seen a lot of mystery intermittent electrical issues instantly disappear when the battery cables were tightened down fully. I work at AutoZone and the very first thing I always do when testing batteries is try to wiggle the connectors by hand. You should not be able to do this by hand no matter how much pain and bleeding you can handle. This is actually a frequent problem when batteries are replaced and cable connector bolts bottom out before a full connection is made due to the new battery using skinnier terminal posts than the factory battery.
Apprentice walks out of the bathroom.
Wizard: "What took you so long?"
Apprentice: "I was fighting that for a half an hour."
Loved the tips on finding a clunk in the front-end, removing seized rims, brake rotors, and the extra-long slim ratcheting wrench, and moving a car by pushing the tires--brilliantly simple! As a DIY-er, those were super-fantastic tips, but the 3-stage rivet removal technique takes the prize. I have not seen any other video show that yet--thanks so much Wizard!
My tip for disk is the screw get another longer one screw it in till it pushes back at you and pulls the disk off too
Tip 8: Rotors and drums generally have two extra holes tapped in them to put bolts in that will press against the wheel hub and press the drum or rotor off when the bolts are tightened
I’ve done this with Toyotas multiple times. It’s a great feature!
ALWAYS BACK OFF THE HANDBRAKE, I can't stress this enough after seeing so many techs just forcing the drums out and stretching the retaining pins.
@@itsnotfunny8257 The parking brake on some models is automatic when the car is in park. Some people might not realize it. The automatic feature can be deactivated with a scan tool.
@@briang.valentine4311Is there another way? Disconnecting battery or something? (Seems like that ought *not* to work because if the battery dies the car rolls… maybe a two step process?)
Regarding tip #5 using the door as a lever to find clunks. If it is an older GM product, first you will need to isolate the clunk coming from the worn out hinge on the door itself!
And be careful not to break the glued on door hinge clean off!
Bill Williams best comment
Hell, I REPLACED the pins on my '02 Silverado, and the doors STILL clunk! Imagine replacing suspension parts because of that!
I'd be SO PISSED!
This tips are the best "little solutions for BIG POBLEMS" you can find in any place. "Experience is the mother of every science" and this gentleman is a living proof of that. Thanks a lot for this TIPS...
11:00 mark. It drives me crazy watching Barrett Jackson when they push cars on/off the stage! I’ve seen so many cars with subtle dents caused by the palms of peoples hands!
Not to mention what the oil in your skin does to that high dollar premium paint work.....
I put a dent on a van's rear door hatch pushing it
My girlfriend's transmission just went out on her c4 Corvette and we're going to use tip 6 to get it in the garage.
I have to say; I just love, love, LOVE the head slap wizard does! 😊
The clunk is gone but, now my door is misaligned.. lol
Was waiting for someone to say that.
@@wholeNwon I was also thinking the same thing, especially on an older GM with those heavy ass doors. On the 3rd gen F bodies for instance, it was nearly impossible to find one that didn't have at least one door sagging.
I was going to say now I get wet when it rains
Also try it on a car that isn't sprung like a 70s waterbed.
Man, I was watching in horror as he pushed down on that door. Rock the car, fine, but don't be pushing down on the doors ffs
I've been doing repair work, fabrication since 1970, it takes many years to learn how to handle tools properly and many more to master the little tricks that save time. Learning about leverage is one of the most important things for handling tools, and using heat to loosen fasteners. Being from Michigan you must learn how to beat rust. I'm at the age that I forget the little tips and tricks so thanks for the reminders.
Had a squeaky clutch pedal... turned out to be my shoes. 🙈
😂🤣😂🤣🤦♂️
had an awful noise on the passenger side of my car years ago..turned out it was my ex wife
🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂
🤣🤣😂😂
@@andrewallen9537 I had a similar issue! In my old Civic Si 2007, There was this NON STOP rattling, banging and squealing coming from the pass side wheel well! Turns out, it was my Ex G/f! She was still stuck in the shock when I ran her over! LMAO!
"You don't have time for fighting." 😎 Great life lesson
This video is frickin amazing. Like every single tip is brilliant, the rivet one in particular 👍
Agreed! Never knew that about pop rivets!
I agree the rivet one was great.
In a word "superb"!!!!!
A real wizard !
Thank you very much! These tips are so awesome, especially for people who are not mechanics by trade.
Great videos, thanks!
Had the starter go out on my Escort ZX2 S/R. I knew how terrible they were to replace, so I hammered that bastard to life for 6 months.
I once owned an 82 mazda B-2000 pickup. Easy to get to the starter but have no idea how many times I used the jack handle to bump the solenoid. I rode in with one of our electricans from a week long road job and had to bump the solenoid to start my truck, the guy laughed so much my sides even huurt. He said, 'james, your a mechanic, why don't you just fix the starter. My answer 'why, I got a jack handle.....lol
You're now even teaching us old wrenches new things, but at least I DID know most of them! 🫡
Harleys forever, Forever Harleys!
What a channel! I have never seen a mechanic that can solve almost anything with PURE LOGIC. That is indeed its own kind of brilliance.
These videos go to show that no matter how long you've been working on cars, you can always learn new tricks. Keep 'em coming, Wizard!
I needed to push a car today and remembered this video. IT"S SO MUCH EASIER to push the car by pushing a wheel! I've seen people doing it on TV, but never actually gave it a second thought. Don't know how to explain it, it's counterintuitive but it just works.
It's simple, actually: pushing the car is a 1:1 ratio, let's say 1" to 1" to push it. BUT, push on the wheel, and your motion is expressed by the distance from your hand to the axle...whis isn't going to be 1:1 compared to the distance the car moves - it will be less due to the fulcrum, or lever effect...your hand may travel even twice as far, meaning you are in a 'lower gear' than 1:1.
16:00 - Some drums and rotors have a threaded hole for you to use a screw to slowly remove the drum/rotor.
Finally, an actual USEFUL video on RUclips. THIS is content.
great tip on the rivet removal, thank you!!!
As a 56 year old teaching myself auto mechanics,(mostly through utube vids) I really appreciate these tip videos keep em coming,!!
RE The battery terminals. Reminds me of something that happened when i was a teenager. My dad went to look at a car for sale as a non-runner. It was a Renault 25 V6. A luxury car over here in europe that was popular in the 80's. My dad took a look at it, and the owner said the "AA" had even sent a guy to look at it and they gave up. So it was a non-runner. We paid the money. Hooked up tow ropes and towed it away. My dad pulls over about 3 roads away. Pops the bonnet (hood). And shows me that the battery is in backwards !!. Took it out, flipped it around and sure enough it fired up almost straight away. He was so happy as it was really cheap and yet a very nice car. And yet a trained mechanic didnt spot that !.
Nice
So you all took advantage of someone who didn't know better...cool story...
Hey nice find!
So a guy from Alcoholic's Anonymous was sent to look at it ?
@@raypatterson4894 Automobile Association. Its a break-down service in the uk.
I always enjoy watching other people's tips and tricks. Learn a ton of new things that always come in handy. I've got one for you if you are out and need to change a flat that is stuck like the Cadillac. Since you most likely don't have a dead blow in the trunk we got to use what's on hand. The spare. It never has failed me within one or two blows. The weight does almost all the work too. A bonus is that if it's a low car that you can't really get access to the back on the side of the road you can hit it along the bottom face and there is very little worry about damaging a rim. At most you may need to clean a little rubber mark from it.
Necessity being the Mother of invention!
You’re channel has come a long way since the beginning. Great job.
Not just loose battery cables but dirty, oxidized and/or corroded battery terminal connections!
Clean your battery and terminal connections TWICE a year people!
Once in the spring and once in the fall. It should look like shiny metal using a battery terminal brush.
Another video that should be #1 on youtube! Great info Wizard, and wonderful that you share it! Many mechanics play by the knowledge is power rule, and are not to be trusted. Your clients are truly blessed by having an honest mechanic.
Thank you, Wizard! I didn't know any of these valuable instructional how-to tips!
Hi Wizard! I’m having a bad day, but I always watch your videos when I’m angry or upset since your videos calm me down and I love to watch them. You and your family have a great day and a happy new year! 👍
John Redcorn gives good messages
Daniel S. Nancy recommends him 👍
Rusty Shackleford
CarsTrucksWhatever yup
@@dalegribble3684 I hope you have a better day dale. Happy new year to you.
I appreciate the clarification on my CVT fluid change. Love your videos, and keep helping people out with the maintenance that need to be done. People who want to keep their vehicles healthy into the 300k mileage. I’m for sure following your expert advice. Appreciate everything you do CAR WIZARD!!!
This is my favorite series on this channel. I was waiting for the classic wizard humor, "ohhhhh sorrry!" We got a brief moment in tip #8 but it was as good as the normal one. 😀
Loved round one, loving round two!
After 18 years I still picked up two tips.
I was going to get those wrenches anyway. Now I can help the wizards at the same time.
After 55 years I picked up 5 tips. Got you beat! 😀😀
I upgraded the rear end gears on my Prowler but don't know how to connect the module for the speedometer.
Actually learned something kinda new here even though I do the very same thing as you do for a living. The trick to rock the car on the ground to find a clunk was something I had never thought of. But still I have found pretty much all the clunks I've had to diagnose. On balljoints I use channel locks (if they fit) and try to squeeze the side of the cup on the other end and the nut on the other - if there is any movement then the balljoint is bad. This has been very useful on to diagnose those upper control arms on VAG cars with the multilink setup (A4, Passat 3B, A6 C5 and so on). Gentle fiddle with a tire iron on bushings if not visibly broken also has found many tired parts.
Anti roll bar drop links with balljoints on both ends - if it can be turned from side to side easily when the car is on a lift then they are at least near failure if not failed already. Channel locks work here also. Many many years ago when I was still learning and gaining the basic experience I even tried removing the drop links and drove around the block - the clunk was gone. I had the new parts on the table but I wanted to be sure before I fitted them because the old ones did not feel so loose to hand even when removed (I did not yet use the channel lock method at that time). Though on some cars the anti roll bar might hit something else in the suspension if the car is driven without the droplinks so this is something to think first before doing it.
On wheel bearings my methods are trying if there is any play with the wheel on, then spin the wheel and listen and last I grab the coil spring and then spin the wheel. If I can feel "judder" on the spring then the bearing is bad. A few rare cases have been where I had to use a mechanics stethoscope on the knuckle near the bearing while spinning the wheel to hear the bearing noise.
I am sure this is all clear to you but if someone going through these comments might pick up an idea from here and then I didn't write this for nothing :)
All I do for tip #1 is I have a set of reasonably priced box end ratcheting wrenches about 8" long and a few pieces of scrap pipe that will fit over them. Slide the pipe over the end you aren't using, put a bit of duct tape or electrical tape to hold it and VOILA, save yourself $180 on a wrench set you may not need that often. (And the short ones come in handy for lots of stuff)
Of what are these 'reasonably priced' ratchet wrenches of which you speak sir!?
Congrats on 200k buddy!
Tavarish HIIII
Bro @tavarish what’s good bro!!
Tavarish! What's up my n.. oh.
Ahhhhhh!
One year later he more than doubled that up.
Your absolutely right. Having the right quality specialty tools to do the job is essential when your working on commission.
Thanks for the rivet tip!! I do lots of small engine work and lots of times the pullstart is held on by rivets. Wish I knew this earlier.
Thank you for proper rivet technique tutorial. Aerospace ftw!
New t-shirt idea " I've been fighting that for half an hour" 👕
nope,........................ NOBODY BEATS the WIZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@gertraba4484 that's why the shirt is green, for new Junior Mints and apprentices 👍
And you can do different lengths of time!
I have frequently watched inexperienced techs struggle with a job, so I wander over, show the the best way to do something, and then wander back to what I was doing.
This leads to one of three results the next time they do that job. 1) They remember. 2) They remember "something", and come ask me to show them again, which I gladly do. 3) They make the same mistake again,.
For #3, I let them struggle. Eventually, I might ask them if they remember what I showed them last time, but some lessons have to be learned the hard way.
@@crowttubebot3075 Hats off to you sir. You are the tech/mechanic that new techs need to get to know and have the privilege of working with or at the same shop. I would have loved to have worked with the attitude that you practice with those who need help or those who come to you for help. I had the opposite where a question about help or a visual inspection to estimate a problem or job found part of a oil change when I was new was met with the tales of how this career is terrible and I will be broke and lonely if I choose to stay and that I need to find a better job or being told that is my problem. Also dealt with the techs who only want to be bothered when your trying to recommend gravy work and taking my ticket so they can clock it to get paid for the oil change I did because a oil change is beneath them but not when it came to getting paid for me doing it or a PDI because I was hourly and they were flat rate. I even tried to sweeten the pot by offering to do oil changes for them if I could in exchange for being shown how to do a alignment or brake flush with the machines etc.and was met with nothing. Again I think your work ethic is awesome and more senior techs are needed to practice this to help the next generation. Thank You
Now I know why you’re called the Wizard. You have some brilliant tips. Thank you so much for sharing your Awesome knowledge. Keep it coming Wizard Dave ! Bravo !!!
Damn. Kudos on the rivet tip, that is excellent Forbidden Wizard Knowledge
Dude you are a BOSS. Thank you for these tips.
Always learn something new... Great job Wizard!
Great tips. For tip #8, if you're not sure of your hammer aiming skill, thread the wheel nuts back onto the studs so the top of the nut is flush with the top of the stud. That way, if you accidentally hit a stud you won't mar the thread. Where I live salt is used on the roads. Rotors and drums never come off easily. They're always rusty and usually need to be heated with a torch. I'm amazed at how clean the undersides of Wizard's vehicles look. No rust!!!
Greatly Appreciated! Keep E'm Coming!!
Yes we need more tips!
On the brake drum or rotors another trick is to look for screw holes and run the right size bolt in the holes evenly with a power tool. This method pulls the rotor without damging anything surrounding the rotor. also if the holes aren't there i use an air hammer in between the studs works like a charm.
The wheel trick is priceless! I’ve been pushing on the interior A or B pillar.
I will absolutely use this on my 2000 Civic--as soon as I put the wheels back on!
I would sit in the car and use my left foot to move the car
My father had an 1984 Renault Encore and the interior plastics on the a and b pillars were all cracked up because of this :)
As a detailing enthusiast, I can’t state how much I appreciate this tip.
Yes I have to try this one I never would have thought it'd be so easy
Work Smarter not Harder way to go Wizard!
Thanks for the masterclass. The biography detail is the icing on the cake.
Mr. Wizard, that tip with the wheel is really cool!!!
Thank k you for sharing your experience. I enjoy your videos very much.
Wow, he flails his hands around almost as much as Scotty! That’s the sign of a master mechanic.
Think Scotty has manual artificial lung pumps. Has to keep his arms going to breath and talk fast. I do enjoy listening to these well informed guys.
@@arvbergstedt3303 So do I. Don’t know why I made that comment. Probably just for comic relief. 😁
He might be part Italian. They say you tie their hands and they can't talk!
I started my apprenticeship back in 78 as a collision repair/refinishing/coatings specialist. Your a good man. I like your "switch on,switch off"relay idea.. Its all good
I did find that shifter lock release in another youtube video when my shifter went bad. It saved me a ton of money in repairs, which turned out to be a fancy rubberband.
I'm in the UK, and as most cars have manual gearboxes only I don't think I've ever seen this tip before. Super useful!
Often the location of the lock release is shown in the owner's manual.
Props to Mrs. Wizard too for supporting the business and channel!
Fantastic job and thank you! This is like a PhD in time saving tips.
I just learned tip 3 getting shifter out of park when i did a timing belt on a Honda Odyssey about 5 months ago👍 Tip 5 just saved me a lot of wasted time, thank you!
This is a great series Wizard!
Really useful tips...
Great video. Just went to turning wrenches about 2 years ago from construction. A few tips i already knew as most in the business, but most have been a real time saver. So thank you for taking time to make these videos. Greatly appreciated keep up the good work.
This is some good Wizarderie ! You should do more mechanics tips video they are The best √
Universal mechanical wisdom at its finest and most helpful. Thank you from UK
Good stuff, Wizard. Thank you.
Grandpa was a mechanic, Dad is a retired mechanic I grew up in their shop, thought I knew everything, not quite, you're the man, definitely great thinker , thanks for sharing
Love the tip on the rivet. Learned something new today. Thanks. 👍
14:25 - 16:15 -- Put the lug nuts [loosely] back onto the studs. This can save a lot of headache/heartache because, if a blow or two is poorly aimed, the nuts are [almost] always less expensive than the studs and are always -- ALWAYS! -- easier and quicker to replace.
Ed, doing this for over sixty years
Having all of those northstars around is a nice chance to do a multi part video on boring out and doing the bolt conversion if you have the time and are up for it.
Yes I second this! (I hope to be a future Aurora owner)
I’ve watch this and your other video on 10 tips. I knew all about the rivet removal. It was well worth watching them all to learn that one. Blessings
wow, this is really helpful. no ones ever showed me these simple things. thank you
Every time I watch I learn that I have been doing something in the wrong manner. Now I can appreciate the experience of a professional 'wizard'. Thank you.
15:50 - For all these pro tips... Why not tell people to put the lugs back on the studs? So in case you do miss; you're hitting the lug instead of marring the thread, good tip as opposed to "Don't do that".
This is exactly what I do, and that's exactly what I do.. Live in the rust belt so I know a thing or two about rusted on rotors.
Great mechanic with a wealth of experience coupled with common sense. Used the solenoid trick many times in the past - never hit the starter. Especially on a vehicle with the solenoid on the side not next to the starter. The rivet trick is a real winner.
I use mountain wrenches love them.
Love the Wizard tips my man!. Punching out rivets was worth the whole video.
If a $180 tool saves you 10 hours of labor a year, at $50/hour then it's a bargain.
just looked and they dropped the price to $128
not even that, you pay employees a couple thousand dollar a month in wages and can't afford $180 equipment...?
or pad the bill and add it to the repair job
Techs buy the tools, not the shop.
Yeah but if you only work on your car own cars, it's a little harder to justify spending $180 on a tool that won't see much use.
I was pushing a mangled Swift at the salvage where I work, and we had "locked" the hood over the leftovers of the windshield... My head was in the way, when it came back... From there on, I either drag them by the A or B pillars, or the wheels.. Thanks for the tips, Wizard! Most of them I figured by myself, and some I got taught by my mentor, as you say.. But the rest are just aces up my sleeve!
Love your channel, but I got to say, tip no.5 - Look at tip No.6 - and say ''NO, STOP'' etc.. The force you are applying to the hinges using the length of that door as a lever is more than some hinge mountings can take. My old XYZ would have been damaged if someone had swung on the door - For sure.
If it's a Mercedes then sure swing on the door.
i replace my mom's door bushings every other year, have been doing so since i was a teen.
I learnt 5 new tricks today. Thank you Wizard. Now one from me. 3.8 L GM engine. Had a no start in a parking lot close to home. Son tells me to pour hot water over the crank sensor down low. Got some hot water from a shop, poured it over the sensor and the car started and got me home. Next day I replaced the sensor. Would probably work on other cars too.
Front end clunk is fixed, now I need door hinge pins
That's funny dude!
Big Hug and Huge Thank You for your good, positive help in helping mankind in America and World-wide.
Helpful tip: I tell my guys every time you do ANYTHING with AC, moving it, disconnecting it or whatever, ALWAYS check to see if the AC works before repair. When you’re Noh is done and you’re doing exit checks, you will be scratching your head if the AC doesn’t blow cold and it opens it wide open for the customer to say it worked before it came in. Nice video!
FIRST ask the customer whether the AC works. If he says "yes", turn it ON and see whether it does before the customer leaves. If he has left, check the AC immediately, If it doesn't work, CALL him at once. Saves a LOT of potential problems and appearances in small claims court.
wholeNwon Yes, I bet that would work best for automotive with the customer more involved. There is a largely big gap between myself and the end user, dispatch, the rig crew, the operator and the person paying the bill. It’s less of a personal experience usually. We aren’t going to claims court over AC, it’s just not something we want to do, so we check.
@@smittymwsful Sure. I was thinking in terms of the average community auto repair shop. There are many other situations where it's impractical and insurance companies are often involved instead.
I've been wrenching on cars for over 25 years and this guy knows how they built the pyramids. 🧑🔧
Have you considered a call-in advice show or podcast? You could be the next iteration of Car Talk.
Yes!
You mean NPRs Car Talk with “Click” and “Clack” the “Tappet” brothers?...this guy couldn’t hold a candle to them!! Don’t insult us. Those two guys were genius. This guy is just a competent mechanic. Knowledgeable but No sense of humor and culturally illiterate...not entertaining at all. Really. The guy verges on boring.
Think you can be a little more harsh, pistonpuss???
Great idea
@@slipf18bustedflush42 you dont have to be here. Others including myself like the car wizard & don't always have to be entertained 24/7.
That tip on the rivets is extremely appreciated. I've got a Miata soft top that needs replacing and you just gave me the gumption to do it myself.
"...and torque to Wizard ft-lbs." accurate, hahah
Every time I have any electrical issue the first thing I do is clean the batter cable connections. Daughters camry, driving it the Guage cluster kept cutting out along with the hvac controls and radio. The alternator was putting out 14volts and the battery 12.6. They both passed on the tester. I cleaned the battery posts. They had very mild corrosion. That fixed everything. It was just the battery cable connection.
A caravan, the alternator failed so I bought a new one. It turned out to just be a loose battery cable connection on the back of the alternator. I check that every time the alternator fails from that day forward.
i love the semi pissed off attitude when he does these
Dont wind up the wizard
I see stupid people...!
Yeah I think it's not just 'when he does these':)
He's very good at staying calm while explaining what you were doing wrong. Like we're his children. Lol. Thank you poppa wizard.
My wizard tip.. to find exhaust leaks, blow air through your tail pipe by BB using a leaf blower or vacuum on reverse. Now spray soapy water on areas of your exhaust you might expect a leak like at any joints or on your manifold. Any leaky spots will produce soap bubbles as the air comes out of them. Then you can likely patch it with various brands of welder tape on the pipe or welder putty on the manifold, like JB weld.
11:10 - that’s a wheely good idea
I had to do something similar to #10 when my handbrake stuck on. Got a 2*4 and a hammer and gave my brake drums a GENTLE tap. I could actually hear the mechanism let go from the inside of the hub.
Great tips Wizard, thanks mate :-)
that wrench would seriously had helped me changing the starter and alternator wire on a 2L 16v duratec without removing anything around it
Thanks for making these Awesome Informative videos Wizard. I'm an apprentice mechanic and i watch your videos for good insight! i feel like I've gotten better as a mechanic since watching your Videos! also "Wizard Foot Lbs" haha classic! keep the videos coming Master!