Dodge Ram 1500 1994-2001 evap error bypass
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- Опубликовано: 28 фев 2017
- disclaimer do not do this just to remove emissions equipment. If you cannot get your emissions system to work and are in a non emission location this may help but I am not responsible for any violations you may be doing by attempting this.
This should work on most Dodge products from 1994-2000. There are some trucks with a California emission computer that will not allow this to work. Any federal emissions computers will allow this prior to model year 2001.
This is a Dodge ram 1500 1998 with 5.2L
1994 1995 1996 1997 and 1999 are all the same system. Dakota and Durango use the same as well.
Resistor used: 100ohm 1/4W
Resistor color code: brown black brown
Use at your own risk. My emissions system has failed 3 times in 6 years with leaks. Broken canisters and solenoid failures. The truck is now in a non emission area so this modification is not to bypass laws or emissions tests.
Thanks you.tThis is exactly what I was looking for.
Thank for posting...btw..clear codes or even the theft system disconnect battery (both leads) and touch them together. Dealer charges 80 buck and guaranteed its all they do.
thanks dude
Thanks for the info, But
I thought I was gonna see something on the charcoal canister on this truck. Because the rubber connectors are terrible. Mine deteriorated after it's set for about 10 years. Yeah I have 4 openings and only 3 of them are being used so do I just plug off the one not being used? Do you know
Thanks for sharing look forward to hear from you bye for now Ken.
Exactly what I’m looking for lol
You helped me, buddy. You helped me. Thanks for the heads up on legality, i wouldve left her hangin and unpluged for god and everybody else to see.
2000 Dodge ram 5.2 myself near exact miles, my dash really not there anymore, and throwing the same codes. I'm on my second replaced water pump and it's blown a few rear wheel brake cylinders. You might want to check the stationary belt pulley. The bearings on mine froze up 3 weeks ago and almost lost a new belt because of it. And you are low on a/c freon btw.
So I have the 360 cubic inch. 2001 ram 1500.
If putting a resistor in that connection turns the engine light off, it would mean that it not a purge valve or just a purge valve. A purge valve does not detect vacuum or pressure. It simply opens the valve so that fuel vapors can get sucked into the engine.
I noticed in my rig two of them connections. That one and another below, a little lower. It seems to be a larger harness.
There has to be some sort of sensor that detects either pressure or vacumm in them lines and if it can't it will mean fault code.
Assuming it does detect either one, then the cpu sends signal to the purge valve to open. Once it opens then the cpu must monitor that it worked, in other words no more pressure in the line.
But I will try this and see what it does.
The no tach gauge cluster from the Dodge Dakota
Min leaks fuel bc I don’t have it on it and it’s a 98 would this work on it and dose your leak?
😂 My dash looks exactly like yours and i have the same dash cover 👍👍👍
I have a older dodge vehicle that I swapped a 1999 5.9 magnum into using a stripped down harness. I have located the evap purge wire in the ecu and I am assuming that it is a switched ground. Do I just need to run this resistor between a hot and evap purge wire in the ecu to stop it from setting a code
Did you figure this out?
Where did u get that resistor? I gotta get the resistance up on my led lightss
you would need load resistors, look on ebay for "LED error cancel" or anything like that.
i have heard that having a large leak in your EVAP system will affect your gas mileage? have you noticed anything like that?
In regards to a dodge 318 motor, you cannot really get any less gas mileage, but on the newer more precise engines, yes a evap leak does cause issues, but it is in regards to vacuum system cascades, once there is a comprimize, other systems degrade. The 318 in this truck was adapted to OBD2 just enough for emissions, the engine can be swapped back to carb/no computer with only a few bolts, carburator, and a distributor cap rotor change, it is a old but reliable design that is by no means efficient.
thx I never knew you could do this, rather than paying autozone over $100 with tax for that cheesy little purge solenoid thing I may just hook a resistor up to it, it should tell the computer that everything is working good, people swore if that messed up the truck will get bad mpg or even have bad power but that resistor should help. I'm chasing down a gas/exhaust odor problem along with eh mpg but I'm going to put on a new o2 sensor, map sensor, and pcv valve, already done a full tuneup, maybe my egr is messed up, the very early 2nd gen rams like my 95 have an egr valve but the later ones don't, I read about people just blocking/deleting the egr lol. The hoses rotting around that charcoal canister under the truck is also another common problem and can be very expensive to fix, apparently on my earlier obd1 version ram the canister is on the driver side instead of passenger, I'm going to go check if the hoses are indeed rotted, I may fix the stupid hoses just for the sake of me being tired of smelling exhaust when I get out of the truck. I'm grateful to have a reliable vehicle to get me from A to B but these older ram trucks sure seem to have their share of gremlins, I also need to fix my steering, I have a non existent dashboard, and my electric locks don't work, and I have no stereo lol, and we all know the infamous bad trans problems these have...but my cheap used one I got earlier this year starts right up and drives decent for having almost 225k miles on it, I guess I can't complain too much for a 23 year old truck that only initially cost me 800 bucks, and I did the oil and got some used tires for it and did a tuneup, now it's down to chasing stupid sensor and emissions crap...
The emissions stuff with these trucks does nothing for MPG... it was basically a slap on system to make it pass smog in california. It was thrown on to all trucks since it was easier to equip all models. The only emissions item that can cause reduced MPG and performance is the CAT. if its clogged or damaged it will degrade. Im working on a o2 sensor mod to allow me to run a little lean since dodge tunes them on the rich side. When i got the truck I ran seafoam through the engine oil system (not how seafoam says but one ounce added each week, for 4-5 weeks, then drive it one more week and change oil. Seafoam says to ass one ounce per qt of oil all at once and run it.) I also ran seafoam through the vacuum systems and fuel systems. Ill be changing the fuel filters and replacing the valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets, and all spark plugs and wires. I have to replace the clutch but have not had time to park the truck for a day or two to get the flywheel resurfaced. Im in about $1000 on this truck since the headlights are replaced, new tires, multiple oil changes to clean it out, and random wiring fixes. Ill be doing a coolant flush and clean once I get my heater core redone. Good luck with your truck!
1996 2500 here. When the engine light is ON, crap mileage and the performance is sluggish. When the engine light is OFF it runs so much better and gets better gas mileage. I have been chasing evap issues. The 100 ohm resistor on the purge valve isn't really going to do anything from my understanding. It's just a ON/OFF value, not a sensor. The leak sensor in on the gas tank (somewhere). So the PCM says to the 100 ohm resistor, take that, and the leak sensor still says, you gotta leak. Nothing will change by using the 100 ohm resistor. Now if we put the resistor on the leak sensor... mmm? What do you think? Update: No, that wouldn't work either because when both valves are closed and the gas tank holds pressure, good, but when the valves are set open the gas tank pressure must reduce, bad, and it won't. The pressure would remain constant by the 100 ohm jumper on the sensor. I guess the thing to do is fix evap system to get the engine light to go off. No quick fixes
did you ever have any luck with your evap gas tank issues? Life really got in the way and I actually finally got around to changing the map and o2 sensor the other day and truck starts up better and idles smoother, rpm will occasionally go down then back up when I let off the gas, I'm assuming the computer relearning the IAC since the old map and o2 were worn out. Map sensors even without a code or o2 can be old/lazy and throw off mpg and power too, those two sensors are cheap on rockauto and I'd say well worth it. I still need to give it more time but I'm sure my mpg will be better now, I'll run some Gumout fuel system cleaner for good measure, but I don't smell the huge reeking gas smell when I get out of the truck or start it up....must have been running extremely rich, tailpipes were coated in black soot. It's never left me stranded so I guess I can't be too hard on the 23 year old truck with 225k miles on it I got cheap.....last thing I need to do is tighten the steering box, maybe add a can of freon, and get a cheap dashboard cover and my truck will pretty much be complete. I actually wish I had an OBD2 vehicle though since they were so easy plugging a scanner in to see codes and data, these old obd1 vehicles are pretty crude in comparison.also I guess even if I need a new IAC and Throttle position sensor those are only about 30 bucks each online too
I got to check this stuff out. My truck is like missing vidrating when it's just driveing,like jurking. It will clear out at times but real bad on gas.like injectors and plug wires,I'm going to che k the plugs also. New quill allready.
In California u will fail emissions if u change anything with the smog evap system's. The new technology will catch u if u bypass or remove evap system's. U will get fined 10k under new law's. I do this for a living and work for the California bar association, as a inspector. California is now doing road side testing to check for removal of smog evap system's. And those r like Dui check points. By law u can't refuse the inspections. And your car can be red flagged for smashing if u r caught modifing any smog parts. Now even the exhaust has to be oem to state standard's too. No Glass packs r allowed or any modified exhaust system is banned. U will get caught. 100% don't chance removing smog parts of any kind
Omgosh this is probably why I cannot locate it!’ It’s gone!
lmao mine too
Hey I tried this on my 2001 Ram 1500 it's built in 2000. The code keeps coming back and the check engine light. I used the resister and plugged it in that same spot am I missing anything else? Or any other tips? I mostly just want the check engine light off.
if your truck has the "california" coded computer it will not work. the 48 state computer can work, but it sometimes will still trip.
The resistor is directional, flip it around maybe
on my 01 dodge ram 1500 i turn key on & off 3 times with out starting it to get my codes ; i got P 0443 is why i came here to see where its at
Dude, I have a 99 Durango 5.9 with evap issues and engine light I just can't run down. You say 100 ohm resister?? Where might one obtain such?? I'm ready to do it. I'll do what I can to help your channel.
From, Joe Marotta..
if you have a "CALIFORNIA" ECU it will not help, I have not got my hands on a non california ECU yet to test on. But a 100 ohm resistor can be found at radioshack, frys electronics, or ebay. you bend the legs of the resistor and put it in the socket for the evap solenoid.
I'v been replacing the tubing and installing new canisters to get mine fixed finally, mostly wanted to do the fix to have the engine light off.
@@chrisstinson2536 THX again. Got my 100 ohm resister from eBay in today $5.00 or so, not sure how you tell if Calif PCM or federal? I did the bypass and reset and so far MIL off, but I never got my evap code before cheat, till drove some miles and restart. I never got the light until restart engine,, before. MIL on and off before so must be a slow leak, I just can't run down.
I have a fair Launch scanner CRP129E, hate the touch screen, but able to hammer out some info, since 99 it's not the most cooperative, you might know? I'll let us know if light stays off in the next few days. Auto Tech Shop here, and appreciate the knowledge I knew nothing of.
No emissions here either, in Amarillo, TX..
MIL still stay's on and off all day today. Guess I'll have to fix it their way on this one..Darn!
So could I possibly just cap the hose to the canister.?
not exactly, It looks for a pump time since it has a known volume. if you cap it, the volume is wrong and it will send a code.
@@chrisstinson2536 Ya I just left everything except purge solenoid hooked up, and I get just a tiny + pressure hiss when fuel tank warm, and Fuel cap cracked open. Hoping this is just right, for tank pressure sensor to be satisfied.. ??? I think my unfounded leak will adjust pressure as needed hopefully?? Almost funny..
THX.
so how dose this work wen you need to get ur truck inspected
It does not work for an inspection. only to get rid of the check engine light.
Depends on the state. These are old enough in some states where they dont test the emissions, but there cant be any lights.
Look at the fuel gauge
Did it ever come back on?
with the California computer, yes, with the 49 state computer, no
@@chrisstinson2536 so you have both computers?
The fuel empty is red
Hey Chris my 2000 dodge ram vans fuel pump was replaced. Problem is it still does not get gas "sometimes". It will run sometimes but then when I go to start it and it wont start for days at a time. And then it will start again. Any idea what's going on. Any insite will be greatly appreciated
My 96 dodge ram 2500 5.9 360 magnum did the same thing. It's your fuel pump relay. About $25 to $35 at AutoZone. Might have corrosion on it, may be able to take a wire brush to it.
My 97 ram with a 360 was doing same thing. Run good and quit. Wind on it no start. Leave about 20 minutes and start. Still did it after a pile of sensors. Never set a code. By accident wiggled evap sensor plug and that was the rat. Wiggle the male plug and engine dies. Wiggle again and it starts. No idea what's making it do that guess has a short. So just unplugged sensor taped up tight and it works. Try that just a shot. Wiggle and see what happens.
DOES IT PASS A " SCAN " ???
DAVID REYNOLDS no. If you are in a location that requires emissions testing this will fail. And the visual inspection will fail.
If its not a crack its not a dodge ram 1500 2nd dashboard
Still can fail an inspection if the inspector sees you tossed your canister
yes. if you have an inspection... i live in a place with no SMOG checks and still run everything but the evap system that keeps breaking off and leaves my CEL always on.
@@chrisstinson2536 theres supposed to be a strap that holds the canister. Mine rusted off this year. I havent dug into it to see how to rig it, but im assuming thats why yours keep falling off
@@buck19 Iv replaced the strap, usually its a stick, or rocks getting kicked up into the canisters.
Ok, I'm confused!! WHERE DO I GET A 100 OHM RESISTOR THAT WILL PLUG INTO MY 1996 DODGE RAM PURGE VALVE CONNECTOR?????
if you do this do you need a vented gas cap?
no, the charcoal vents are still there and like mine, the tubes are rotted so they "vent"
Before emissions laws it just vented to the atmosphere. With an unsealed tank id assume you may run into CEL issues on newer vehicles, similar to a bad gas cap.
With the new ethanol fuel, having a point of ingress for moisture could possibly allow water accumulation inside the tank. This is an issue with marine engines.
Any 2001 RAM 1500 non California owners try this?
well shit i have a etest coming up in 4 months i might do this Lol if all you do is by pass the plug with a wire?
sorry for the late response, if you cave a CARB computer it will only clear for a few minutes. not long enough to pass an emissions test.
i have the same truck as you, i did do this too and holy hell not even 2mins driving after engine light came on and truck felt weird, so i undid it,
mine did not change engine operation with the california ECM, but it did come back on quickly. Since i dont have smog requirements I found a non CARB ECM and installed that with the resistor.
I would not do this I did it to my truck and permanently screwed up that circuit on the computer. Now I have a permanent check engine light
Is it still off
No, only reason it was off he unhooked his battery. It will always come back on until the problem is fixed.
Didn't waste my time. I think you did making the video. I was smart enough not to try it. If it was that easy to do everyone would be doing it.
with non california computers it is that easy.
it works for him just fine, why come and hate
@@Dropbackdurbin_ocs There you go..
THX.
Acuna mattara
Yes it does.i have two dodges.one dakota.one ram 1500.ill trade both if them for a Chevy...lmao
The check engine light is to say HELP. Looking and listening to your truck on this video... youre truck has died and is kept on artificial life support.. I want to cry.😭 I love my a Dodge and would never rip her guts out like this.