I just love people who have time to clean and paint their pieces when they fix things. If I do preventative maintenance on my van, it breaks in another area. I kid you not. Totally unrelated stuff happens on the other side of this dodge ram van 2500 when make improvements
Haha, yeah vehicles seem to have a mind of their own sometimes. And trust me - I can identify. It seems I am in a constant cycle of fixing one thing after another. But, such is the path I choose by owning a 15 year old vehicle! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for posting this video. You are the only one who identified the evap canisters being on the passenger side, almost back to the right rear tire. Took me forever to find it! I got it now 👍🏻
For anyone curious in 2024, the round charcoal can hasn’t been available to purchase for quite awhile. They don’t even list a part number on the Chrysler diagram. The round can is just a secondary one that technically isn’t needed. You can remove the jumper hose between the two cans and plug the hole in the square can then connect the 2 small hoses to the other small fitting that’s capped next to it.
First off this is my wife's account and I am using it only so I could leave a comment because you saved me a lot of money with this video. secondly, I had to have it known how happy I was when my check engine light went off today. I did pretty much the exact same thing with mostly heater hose and one vacuum hose and the light went off not 25 miles down the road.... Thanks for the video!!
Yes Matt Payne, you are great. I command you so much! I had that same problem on my 2001 dodge ram van 1500, It took me no time to figure that out and now its fixed. Thanka again.
As far as I am concerned the hoses and the fitting you installed is thicker and far superior (heavy duty hoses and clamps) compare to the cheap light hoses of the factory. Dodge and the so-called professional mechanic would cringe at their light/cheap material when they see your set up. Two thumbs up from me. I need to replace that funky elbow on mine and while I am at it I will upgrade the rest. Great video. Thank you.
I dont think a professional would cringe at this job. Cutting the original hose down to where it isnt split is a perfectly good practice. The t-fitting is also a perfectly good fix. It doesnt have to be original chrysler fittings and hoses, their shit is junk anyway haha. We are talking about evap lines. Not the end of the world.
Haha, thanks for the words of encouragement! I am often my own worst critic. Sometimes I am gunshy about "putting myself out there" on RUclips, but my goal is always to show people that you don't have to be a professional mechanic to do many projects. I think my videos clearly convey the idea that I'm NOT a professional, so I hope people gain confidence by watching...haha. I figure, at the very least, someone might come away thinking, "well, I'm not going to do it the way THAT idiot did it!" Thanks for watching and commenting!
TheSolitaryObserver: So Chrysler makes their own hoses and fittings now? They don't just use the same manufacturers as everyone else? Pray tell, in which state is their hose factory? I would like to visit. Next, you'll be saying how their transmissions suck, when they are the same ones used by BMW. Do they make their own air that inflates the tires, too?
Easy job. 14mm socket with extension. Pain the butt top bolt but two on the right one on the left. Blew compressed air into port on canisters. Connector hose between the two was fine. 3/8" hose and T. Removed coupler in the line going to engine bay, slid this over the T end. You can remove the hose to the gas tank its a clip release which makes it easy to slide onto the T side. Used silicone spray for all connectors to slide over T easy. With the 3/8" line there was no need for any clamps. Use about 2" from the top port into the T that gives you enough room to bend the line at a gradual angel and your others lines lay nice with no kinks.
I dont see how the T would work right since one line suck all the time and one line sucks only when the box under hood opens it looks like it would defeat the purpose of the lines for fuel. So how is it working for u do u see it working or messing up?
At 4:49 I notice an elbow fitting barely visible behind that one hose with the clamp you are pointing at. I need that oddball elbow fitting. One end goes into the canister and the top end has two openings accepting two horses. Yours is exactly like mine. I didn't realize that there are two places on top that hoses go in. Your hose that is torn goes on the right side. I never realized that there are two openings. I better go and check. I am wondering where can a person find/buy that elbow fitting.
Being an experienced mechanic your video dragged for me a little but I must commend you on a thorough job that will really help someone with less experience than I have. And it helped me too because now that I have the code I also have a starting place to begin to search for my Evap system leak. Thanks, well done.
Thanks, Scott! I'm flattered that you could actually make it all the way through my hack job of a video. I've always assumed that seasoned mechanics would probably cringe if they watched any of my videos. I try to film and edit them so that someone else like me (who is a total novice when it comes to turning wrenches) can follow along and gain the confidence needed to try a repair on my own. I've found that the thing most often preventing me from attempting a repair is that I may be biting off more than I can chew, but I've noticed that if I can watch someone else do it first, I am much more likely to try it myself. Thanks for watching! I appreciate your kind words. I hope you're able to sort out your evap issue.
***** That's exactly why guys like you should keep doing them. It can help people tackle a lot of problems that really aren't all that complex. If you took that in to get it repaired ad a dealer I bet that would cost $100+. Keep after it Matt.
I had this problem since 2001 and the dealership could not find the source of the problem so I been tearing down the whole evac system and I came to realise that the leak detection unit is not sealed so I tore it down and put faucet lubrication around the O-ring at the filter location on the unit and around the big ring for the pump that is inside the leak detection unit and it's sealed it up. faucet lubrication cost me $3 replacement unit of the leak detection cost $125. the check engine light has finally shut off after I fixed the leak detection unit
Mine blows that code IF I run less than 98 octane. Yup. Go figure. It's a 01 RAM. "Slow leak". But a pain with idle though. Thanks for video! Anything on cylinder 5 misfire??
i like your fix with the tee fitting for that funky 2 into 1 boot. On my 2001 I actually just smeared a little silicone on the fat side before putting it back on, and that cleared the small evap leak code that I had. still trying to sort the p0455 code, but i think you just showed me where to look. thanks for the vid!
Hey, your video quality was on point!! Anywho, let's hope I can explain my issue. Let's get started. My problem isn't the same as yours. Mine is where the two hoses go in the butt coupling. With that said, do you know the name of the "butt" looking connector (coupling) that the two hoses going into the other "port"?? I should of taken a picture before re-installing it. It literally looks like a butt...
Matt thank you. The larger hose that goes up to the front of the vehicle, can you tell me where it terminates at in the engine compartment? Mine is not connected under the hood and I’m not sure where it goes. Thank you.
I would have thought that t-piece would confuse the two lines the dual piece you threw away sent the lines in the same direction whereas when it gets to the t-joint its basically facing the ends of the line towards each other if you know what I mean...... Did it work for you??
Great vid Matt. It don't have to look good. The difference between a good mechanic and a bad one? the good mechanic knows how to hide the baling wire and duct tape...
Thank you for he video! This helped me diagnose and repair code P0445 for my 03 durango RT. I had a small cracked hose from the charcoal canister. The hose piece cost $1.30 and easy clamp on
Nice video. Shows where to look really well. The gas will eat up heater hose though in a few years, but it will last a good while. Depending on where viewers(and you) live, you can also look for fuel type hose at like a John Deere dealer or other ag dealer, they usually have stuff like that in stock if it is a larger dealer. Your truck is really clean, you must not live in the midwest lol.
Thanks! Yeah I knew heater hose was not the best thing to use, but hoped it would get me by in a pinch. Thanks for the suggestion...I didn't even think of looking at a John Deer store. I'll remember that for when my current repair fails..haha. Thanks for watching!
Payne I check the evap canniater and had a hose disconnected so what I did was connect it in place but now smoke comes out from exhaust what can cause this?
That y piece you couldn't find at the parts store goes for $95 at the dealer. You'd have to buy the whole line. Good job on the modification. Got to get mine done. thanks
Nice video, I'm going to attempt this soon on my 2001 ram truck, check engine light is on but literally the only codes are a small and large evap leak, I just casually went under and looked and that first hose has a large split in it I could see. Nice idea too on that T splitter too, I might need that too...truck drives fine but my mpg has been less than desirable, I looked online and some claimed having the evap leak could cause bad mpg, although being a 15 year old truck I'm sure it needs both new front o2 sensor's at this point too.
Matt I made you something on Dodge Forum. I made it as a think you for helping me with all your videos. Awesome work friend and you could sell these videos there that good.
***** Well, thanks for the concern Matt. I turned off the light with OBD then after 3 days went back on ; then with battery lol, went back on two days later again. I remember throwing away orginal gas cap and that set it off originally. Then I got aftermarket, that worked for 2 years, light came on. So in October, (put it off too long if you ask me) I got dealer , orginal OEM, that's when I thought "ok, this will do it" I did all the but comes back in 2 days! lol .
Richard Cowtails Hmm, perhaps someone removed your charcoal canister (at least that's what it sounds like)? Do you have any evap-related check engine codes?
Exactly, functionality, I had the same problem, problem solved, I ended up replacing all my hoses and everything else I could find. I have a 99 dodge pickup. I agree with you, we're not trying to impress anyone, well... maybe my new neighbor, she's smoking hot! Don't care if I strike out, I just want to get up to bat!
Rock auto is my preference over a parts store. They deliver quick and at 1/4 the cost on average for a part and can order about everything or little thing
Richard Cowtails Sorry again for not responding sooner...did you figure out where the vacuum lines go? If not, I can try to take some still photos for you. Just let me know. Good luck!
In California we don't have the luxury of ignoring the engine light where evap is concerned. Gotta pass smog every other year. My canisters have a shroud around them. Great video though. Thanks.
Oh well...it never hurts to have a code reader. Some will display pending faults that have not yet been confirmed/logged by the PCM, which cannot be displayed by the "key trick". That only shows logged faults.
10-4, I hope you were able to find and solve your problem! I just had to repair another one of the hoses at the evap canister a couple weeks ago. It seems like the hoses like to split frequently right where they connect to the fittings.
Came came looking for copper and found gold. Bro you just blew my mind. I never knew the truck reads the codes. Thankyou for the information
I just love people who have time to clean and paint their pieces when they fix things. If I do preventative maintenance on my van, it breaks in another area. I kid you not. Totally unrelated stuff happens on the other side of this dodge ram van 2500 when make improvements
Haha, yeah vehicles seem to have a mind of their own sometimes. And trust me - I can identify. It seems I am in a constant cycle of fixing one thing after another. But, such is the path I choose by owning a 15 year old vehicle!
Thanks for watching.
Thanks Matt...good video... Glad to see there's still folks out there willing to get their hands dirty to keep on trucking.
Thanks for this video Matt... found my problem and got it solved. And also nice to know I don't have use my obd2 to get the code anymore! Thanks again
Thank you for posting this video. You are the only one who identified the evap canisters being on the passenger side, almost back to the right rear tire. Took me forever to find it! I got it now 👍🏻
Thanks for this video! My Dodge Ram Van's been popping a P0455 code too. You've given me areas to check. Thanks again.
+Budhag Rizzo You're welcome! I hope you're able to sort out the source of your problem. Good luck!
For anyone curious in 2024, the round charcoal can hasn’t been available to purchase for quite awhile. They don’t even list a part number on the Chrysler diagram. The round can is just a secondary one that technically isn’t needed. You can remove the jumper hose between the two cans and plug the hole in the square can then connect the 2 small hoses to the other small fitting that’s capped next to it.
First off this is my wife's account and I am using it only so I could leave a comment because you saved me a lot of money with this video. secondly, I had to have it known how happy I was when my check engine light went off today. I did pretty much the exact same thing with mostly heater hose and one vacuum hose and the light went off not 25 miles down the road.... Thanks for the video!!
Say hello to your wife from me :-)
Yes Matt Payne, you are great. I command you so much! I had that same problem on my 2001 dodge ram van 1500, It took me no time to figure that out and now its fixed. Thanka again.
As far as I am concerned the hoses and the fitting you installed is thicker and far superior (heavy duty hoses and clamps) compare to the cheap light hoses of the factory. Dodge and the so-called professional mechanic would cringe at their light/cheap material when they see your set up. Two thumbs up from me. I need to replace that funky elbow on mine and while I am at it I will upgrade the rest. Great video. Thank you.
Thanks for this! I just got this truck and it threw this code. Gas cap didn't work, so I guess I need to replace some hoses and hope for the best.
I dont think a professional would cringe at this job. Cutting the original hose down to where it isnt split is a perfectly good practice. The t-fitting is also a perfectly good fix. It doesnt have to be original chrysler fittings and hoses, their shit is junk anyway haha. We are talking about evap lines. Not the end of the world.
Haha, thanks for the words of encouragement! I am often my own worst critic. Sometimes I am gunshy about "putting myself out there" on RUclips, but my goal is always to show people that you don't have to be a professional mechanic to do many projects. I think my videos clearly convey the idea that I'm NOT a professional, so I hope people gain confidence by watching...haha. I figure, at the very least, someone might come away thinking, "well, I'm not going to do it the way THAT idiot did it!"
Thanks for watching and commenting!
TheSolitaryObserver: So Chrysler makes their own hoses and fittings now? They don't just use the same manufacturers as everyone else? Pray tell, in which state is their hose factory? I would like to visit. Next, you'll be saying how their transmissions suck, when they are the same ones used by BMW. Do they make their own air that inflates the tires, too?
You can say that again. Matt's thick hoses and T fitting will outlast his truck. :-)
Easy job. 14mm socket with extension. Pain the butt top bolt but two on the right one on the left. Blew compressed air into port on canisters. Connector hose between the two was fine.
3/8" hose and T. Removed coupler in the line going to engine bay, slid this over the T end. You can remove the hose to the gas tank its a clip release which makes it easy to slide onto the T side.
Used silicone spray for all connectors to slide over T easy. With the 3/8" line there was no need for any clamps. Use about 2" from the top port into the T that gives you enough room to bend the line at a gradual angel and your others lines lay nice with no kinks.
I dont see how the T would work right since one line suck all the time and one line sucks only when the box under hood opens it looks like it would defeat the purpose of the lines for fuel. So how is it working for u do u see it working or messing up?
That was my question.
At 4:49 I notice an elbow fitting barely visible behind that one hose with the clamp you are pointing at. I need that oddball elbow fitting. One end goes into the canister and the top end has two openings accepting two horses. Yours is exactly like mine. I didn't realize that there are two places on top that hoses go in. Your hose that is torn goes on the right side. I never realized that there are two openings. I better go and check. I am wondering where can a person find/buy that elbow fitting.
Being an experienced mechanic your video dragged for me a little but I must commend you on a thorough job that will really help someone with less experience than I have. And it helped me too because now that I have the code I also have a starting place to begin to search for my Evap system leak. Thanks, well done.
Thanks, Scott! I'm flattered that you could actually make it all the way through my hack job of a video. I've always assumed that seasoned mechanics would probably cringe if they watched any of my videos. I try to film and edit them so that someone else like me (who is a total novice when it comes to turning wrenches) can follow along and gain the confidence needed to try a repair on my own. I've found that the thing most often preventing me from attempting a repair is that I may be biting off more than I can chew, but I've noticed that if I can watch someone else do it first, I am much more likely to try it myself.
Thanks for watching! I appreciate your kind words. I hope you're able to sort out your evap issue.
*****
That's exactly why guys like you should keep doing them. It can help people tackle a lot of problems that really aren't all that complex. If you took that in to get it repaired ad a dealer I bet that would cost $100+. Keep after it Matt.
I had this problem since 2001 and the dealership could not find the source of the problem so I been tearing down the whole evac system and I came to realise that the leak detection unit is not sealed so I tore it down and put faucet lubrication around the O-ring at the filter location on the unit and around the big ring for the pump that is inside the leak detection unit and it's sealed it up. faucet lubrication cost me $3 replacement unit of the leak detection cost $125.
the check engine light has finally shut off after I fixed the leak detection unit
Nice work, Patrick!
Hi...i have a question..what's the name of the part that you made in to a T ?
Mine blows that code IF I run less than 98 octane. Yup. Go figure. It's a 01 RAM. "Slow leak". But a pain with idle though. Thanks for video! Anything on cylinder 5 misfire??
i like your fix with the tee fitting for that funky 2 into 1 boot. On my 2001 I actually just smeared a little silicone on the fat side before putting it back on, and that cleared the small evap leak code that I had. still trying to sort the p0455 code, but i think you just showed me where to look. thanks for the vid!
Thanks Terry! I hope you're able to find the source of that P0455 code. Good luck!
Do you know that the boot is called or whAt it connects to?
Hey, your video quality was on point!! Anywho, let's hope I can explain my issue. Let's get started. My problem isn't the same as yours. Mine is where the two hoses go in the butt coupling. With that said, do you know the name of the "butt" looking connector (coupling) that the two hoses going into the other "port"?? I should of taken a picture before re-installing it. It literally looks like a butt...
Awesome! Thanks man!
I was a diesel mechanic in the Army, but that is far from civilian vehicles.
Matt thank you. The larger hose that goes up to the front of the vehicle, can you tell me where it terminates at in the engine compartment? Mine is not connected under the hood and I’m not sure where it goes. Thank you.
Thanks a lot I’ve had the same code coming on for more than a year so I’m going to crawl under and remove canister and take a look
You are missing a hose to plug into it's a 2 to1 what did you do with the other hose
Do I even need these hoses ? If I cut mine under the hood and capped it is it a big deal ?
I would have thought that t-piece would confuse the two lines the dual piece you threw away sent the lines in the same direction whereas when it gets to the t-joint its basically facing the ends of the line towards each other if you know what I mean...... Did it work for you??
I'm not totally sure I follow what you're saying, but the repair did work fine. My trouble code has not come back since.
Great vid Matt. It don't have to look good. The difference between a good mechanic and a bad one? the good mechanic knows how to hide the baling wire and duct tape...
Thanks, James! And haha - very true! I'll take ugly and functional over pretty and busted any day!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for he video! This helped me diagnose and repair code P0445 for my 03 durango RT. I had a small cracked hose from the charcoal canister. The hose piece cost $1.30 and easy clamp on
Nice work! It's great when a repair only ends up costing a few bucks. I'm glad you found this helpful. Thanks for watching!
Good job like to see other shade tree mechanic's make things work.
Nice video. Shows where to look really well. The gas will eat up heater hose though in a few years, but it will last a good while. Depending on where viewers(and you) live, you can also look for fuel type hose at like a John Deere dealer or other ag dealer, they usually have stuff like that in stock if it is a larger dealer. Your truck is really clean, you must not live in the midwest lol.
Thanks! Yeah I knew heater hose was not the best thing to use, but hoped it would get me by in a pinch. Thanks for the suggestion...I didn't even think of looking at a John Deer store. I'll remember that for when my current repair fails..haha. Thanks for watching!
Great video Matt! Its to cold here to do any filming, but its good to see you hard at work!
When I turn the switch off and on it came up as P done no codes but when I put the meter on it P0455 came up what’s going on with it
Matt Payne, thank you Sir. I will owe you some beer. I believe you gave me the knowledge I need. Cheers
Payne I check the evap canniater and had a hose disconnected so what I did was connect it in place but now smoke comes out from exhaust what can cause this?
What size hose is that from the engine bay
What's the canister next to the charcoal canister ?
you should update this and tell us if it worked and made the light stay off.
That y piece you couldn't find at the parts store goes for $95 at the dealer. You'd have to buy the whole line. Good job on the modification. Got to get mine done. thanks
Jon Declemente Whoa! That is insane...but not surprising. Dealerships love to price gouge. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
What’s the part called?
Nice video, I'm going to attempt this soon on my 2001 ram truck, check engine light is on but literally the only codes are a small and large evap leak, I just casually went under and looked and that first hose has a large split in it I could see. Nice idea too on that T splitter too, I might need that too...truck drives fine but my mpg has been less than desirable, I looked online and some claimed having the evap leak could cause bad mpg, although being a 15 year old truck I'm sure it needs both new front o2 sensor's at this point too.
Thanks! I'm sorry for my delayed response...I hope you were able to solve your issue. Thanks for watching!
This was very informative,you sir, are appreciated. Thank you.
My 2002 Dodge Dakota 4.7 liter will start sometimes. Rpm will go to 11 then will die out. ?? What should I look for?
Muffler bearing
Did you smell a lot of fumes, my Dakota 2K does this?
Matt I made you something on Dodge Forum. I made it as a think you for helping me with all your videos. Awesome work friend and you could sell these videos there that good.
Wow, I'm totally flattered - thank you so much! Where can I see it?
I have a P0455 on my RAM. Thanks for the video!
Turns out I have the same issue- dry rotted hoses. You saved me a bundle! Thanks!
Jibey Asthappan I'm glad I could help! Thanks for stopping by!
I just watched this video our trucks are the same color and when you filmed it my truck has 100 more miles on it 😂
Nice...twins separated at birth!
Is this the same as a Dakota
I wonder if this fix could take away p0505 which is the IAC valve, anyways great job very inspiring and helpful, thanks for sharing
Did you fix the p0505 code?
So have car Toyota allion when i Star it check engine light coming on but he no have the mox EVAP i no see it on need
This was extremely helpful. Thank you!
My Dakota,4.7/v8 has been in the shop going on 2 weeks for a P0455 error.
Mine has same problem did you find out what it was ?
The first thing you should check is your gas Cap if it's not properly sealed the same code will show
Thank you, nice and informative,,,going to go turn my key three times now!
You're welcome!
replaced cap, how long before light should go off?
Filmaker25 I think my CEL went off within about 75-100 miles of driving after my repair. Has yours gone out finally?
Thanks for watching!
*****
Well, thanks for the concern Matt. I turned off the light with OBD then after 3 days went back on ; then with battery lol, went back on two days later again. I remember throwing away orginal gas cap and that set it off originally. Then I got aftermarket, that worked for 2 years, light came on. So in October, (put it off too long if you ask me) I got dealer , orginal OEM, that's when I thought "ok, this will do it" I did all the but comes back in 2 days! lol .
Where would someone get that part he was talking about name? He said it was a hard to find part.
That elbow rubber fitting? It is not gonna happen. Do what this fellow did. I have the same problem, elbow fitting shot.
Check with chrysler I'm sure they have them
Actually the hoses u bought is better than what it had, the old one's are cheap rubber.
2 hoses were disconnected off my evap. I don't even have any codes
I dont have that vent under my hood. just a capped off large hose and I do have the the evap thing where the double hose thing connects.
Richard Cowtails Hmm, perhaps someone removed your charcoal canister (at least that's what it sounds like)? Do you have any evap-related check engine codes?
Had a circuit code once. Thats it. Haven't seen it since
Richard Cowtails, hey man I have a parts truck that has the same hookup as yours that you described I can do a video in a week or two for you
That would be great thx
It’s pretty good clear
Exactly, functionality, I had the same problem, problem solved, I ended up replacing all my hoses and everything else I could find. I have a 99 dodge pickup. I agree with you, we're not trying to impress anyone, well... maybe my new neighbor, she's smoking hot! Don't care if I strike out, I just want to get up to bat!
Rock auto is my preference over a parts store. They deliver quick and at 1/4 the cost on average for a part and can order about everything or little thing
If the check light don't go away and you can't find nothing wrong put some tape over it quick fix
Thank you
Awesome, this helped me out a lot, thank you!
That's great to hear, Jesse! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for making this video 🙂👍🏻🇺🇸
can you make a short video on where all those lines go too plz?
Richard Cowtails Sorry again for not responding sooner...did you figure out where the vacuum lines go? If not, I can try to take some still photos for you. Just let me know. Good luck!
I think its the big hose coming into the hood area from.the carbon box
Don't know where it should go
Richard Cowtails Ok, I'll try to remember to take some photos this weekend. You can private message me your email address if you'd like.
Looks like some undercoating would be good for that bracket.
Thanks.
In California we don't have the luxury of ignoring the engine light where evap is concerned. Gotta pass smog every other year. My canisters have a shroud around them. Great video though. Thanks.
Yes mine cracked also went to dodge they did not have the parts the hoses are crap
Take a screw driver bang pump light may go out mine did...
My truck throwing this after dealer changed fuel pump
saved my bacon. just bought a code reader. oh well
Oh well...it never hurts to have a code reader. Some will display pending faults that have not yet been confirmed/logged by the PCM, which cannot be displayed by the "key trick". That only shows logged faults.
just turn the key switch on 3 times," dont crank it" . The 3rd time you turn it on a code should light up in the odemitor gauge.
Dodge Ram pickup dormanfuel vapor leak year 2003 .
I have a po443 code on dodge ram 1500 ,thanks I'll check hoses
10-4, I hope you were able to find and solve your problem! I just had to repair another one of the hoses at the evap canister a couple weeks ago. It seems like the hoses like to split frequently right where they connect to the fittings.
Very useful video! Thanks.
Thank you