I don't own a hope bike but I've been on hope brakes for the longest time. still I'm weirdly invested in this bike doing well. I like hope as a company and I want their bike to do be as good as it looks ... And I'll definitely be buying a ticket for that raffle that's for sure !
It will be alloy to fibre glass and then carbon to avoid electrolytic reaction. All aluminium inserts on carbon frames and forks are done this way apparently.
Stoked you got one of these in for test Paul, can’t wait to hear your thoughts once you get some ride time on it. I’ve gotten one ride on mine so far and initial impressions are really good. When building it up I was truly shocked at how well made it is and how well designed all the little details are. Agreed that although it’s still an expensive bike, it’s definitely a value proposition when compared to other brands that are made in Asia.
Hello Paul, You mentioned the fact of proportional chainstays and seatstays. Only changing the length of the bonded CF tubes would not work. By changing the length of the tubes you would also need to change the angles of the CNC milled alloy parts, since the tubes are not parallel with rim or the wheel. By increasing the length of the tubes, the hub spacing would also increase as a consequence. I can make a CAD sketch tomorrow to visualize it, if it helps. Great video as always!
Cheers, yes I understand the complications but for a brand making everything in house it should be relatively easy to adapt the design of the milled pieces to make it longer and maintain the desired kinematics.
@AstonMTB definitely true, especially in this case with Hope being a CNC milling expert. But sometimes it is not that easy to adapt the geometry of bike with just making something longer or shorter.
Rear center by size can easily be achieved without manufacturing multiple rear end specifications. You just need to move the BB forward relative to the pivot points on your front triangle. This is what Norco, Forbidden etc do
True: I was just trying to make the point that as they're all made in house in small batches it would be easy in any way to make slight adjustments for different sizes.
I know you've just got this bike but at some point you will need another! Alutech have released the Armageddon which is super SUPER progressive on the geometry (57 HA I think?!), only thing is is that its frame only, theyve also got the Fanes pinion which is complete so they are making some epic stuff. More mainstream the Devinci Chainsaw gx dh looks very interesting.
Yes, I've seen the Alutech bike but I don't think it would be ideal for a few reasons: fork stiffness and offsets can't handle such a slack HA (Though it might work with my Dorado with lower offset crowns), and the front to rear balance will be terrible on that bike with the tiny chainstay and the extremely long front end.
Magura's are really good I think with the long and cheap levers. As the comment below a lot of people go for Shigura's (Shimano lever / Magura caliper) but that seems excessive to me if you need to buy two pairs of brakes to make one! If you already have the parts then that's fair.
Im still up in the air about chainstay lengths/rear center as when i Ran custom Rear drop outs on a bike the suspension curve changed quite a bit and took alot of faff to get it right again but it still never felt as good.
Yes, the kinematics should be adjusted at the same time, this is what I did with my Commencal Supreme last year with the 495mm RC and lower progression linkage.
Paul, do you think with these bikes with really long rear centers or CS, its easier to get bucked? Particularly if the leverage ratio has been increased too much because the designers hadn't tuned the kinematic in the larger CS sized versions? To me this is what it feels like
@@brandonb6164 what i was getting at was - if the leverage ratio isn't detuned with the longer CS, the bucking moment also increases! I wonder how many brands are reducing the leverage ratio on the sizes where they lengthen the cs.
@@PeakTorque I think I see what you are saying. If the rear travel and shock stroke are kept the same, average leverage ratio will also be the same. But the curves could change significantly depending on the suspension design if they carelessly modify chainstay length alone. That’s interesting I never thought about that.
So what was the story on the history of the bike? This didn’t get discussed in the video further?
I want to know what its "jaded past" is!
I don't own a hope bike but I've been on hope brakes for the longest time. still I'm weirdly invested in this bike doing well. I like hope as a company and I want their bike to do be as good as it looks ... And I'll definitely be buying a ticket for that raffle that's for sure !
And I was just about to go out and cut the lawn. I'll do it tomorrow......
It will be alloy to fibre glass and then carbon to avoid electrolytic reaction.
All aluminium inserts on carbon frames and forks are done this way apparently.
thanks for the introduction and your thoughts about this bike. I think it is awesome!
Stoked you got one of these in for test Paul, can’t wait to hear your thoughts once you get some ride time on it. I’ve gotten one ride on mine so far and initial impressions are really good. When building it up I was truly shocked at how well made it is and how well designed all the little details are. Agreed that although it’s still an expensive bike, it’s definitely a value proposition when compared to other brands that are made in Asia.
audio sounds great!
Brilliant video and bike. Looking forward to seeing more on this.
Hello Paul,
You mentioned the fact of proportional chainstays and seatstays. Only changing the length of the bonded CF tubes would not work. By changing the length of the tubes you would also need to change the angles of the CNC milled alloy parts, since the tubes are not parallel with rim or the wheel. By increasing the length of the tubes, the hub spacing would also increase as a consequence.
I can make a CAD sketch tomorrow to visualize it, if it helps.
Great video as always!
Cheers, yes I understand the complications but for a brand making everything in house it should be relatively easy to adapt the design of the milled pieces to make it longer and maintain the desired kinematics.
@AstonMTB definitely true, especially in this case with Hope being a CNC milling expert. But sometimes it is not that easy to adapt the geometry of bike with just making something longer or shorter.
Nice video as always!
Lovely bikes and they ride so well.
Rear center by size can easily be achieved without manufacturing multiple rear end specifications. You just need to move the BB forward relative to the pivot points on your front triangle. This is what Norco, Forbidden etc do
True: I was just trying to make the point that as they're all made in house in small batches it would be easy in any way to make slight adjustments for different sizes.
I know you've just got this bike but at some point you will need another! Alutech have released the Armageddon which is super SUPER progressive on the geometry (57 HA I think?!), only thing is is that its frame only, theyve also got the Fanes pinion which is complete so they are making some epic stuff. More mainstream the Devinci Chainsaw gx dh looks very interesting.
441mm chainstays on a 1369mm wheel base that Alutech is going to have no front wheel traction
Yes, I've seen the Alutech bike but I don't think it would be ideal for a few reasons: fork stiffness and offsets can't handle such a slack HA (Though it might work with my Dorado with lower offset crowns), and the front to rear balance will be terrible on that bike with the tiny chainstay and the extremely long front end.
What do you think of Magura brakes? Also what do you think would be a good rear hub width solution? Love your content and competition Paul! Thank you!
Magura calipers are really good but the levers are very spongy and feels cheap. i changed my levers to shimano and theyre now super.
Magura's are OK untill they dont work and leak everywhere.
tech4..
Magura's are really good I think with the long and cheap levers. As the comment below a lot of people go for Shigura's (Shimano lever / Magura caliper) but that seems excessive to me if you need to buy two pairs of brakes to make one! If you already have the parts then that's fair.
Im still up in the air about chainstay lengths/rear center as when i Ran custom Rear drop outs on a bike the suspension curve changed quite a bit and took alot of faff to get it right again but it still never felt as good.
Yes, the kinematics should be adjusted at the same time, this is what I did with my Commencal Supreme last year with the 495mm RC and lower progression linkage.
Sweeeeet rig,best of British loverly jubbly
isn't that their brand new model? how did it end up on ebay so cheaply... mystery
how much time is saved by knowing the trail better ?
HOPE..British and the Best....Ha ! Nice Bike And I agree with the Brake mount issues...Nobodies gonna put a 160mm rotor on thier agressive mtb
Paul, do you think with these bikes with really long rear centers or CS, its easier to get bucked? Particularly if the leverage ratio has been increased too much because the designers hadn't tuned the kinematic in the larger CS sized versions? To me this is what it feels like
All else the same, you would have greater moment from the rear tire.
@@brandonb6164 what i was getting at was - if the leverage ratio isn't detuned with the longer CS, the bucking moment also increases! I wonder how many brands are reducing the leverage ratio on the sizes where they lengthen the cs.
@@PeakTorque I think I see what you are saying. If the rear travel and shock stroke are kept the same, average leverage ratio will also be the same. But the curves could change significantly depending on the suspension design if they carelessly modify chainstay length alone. That’s interesting I never thought about that.
The main reason you bought this bike is because it came with hope brakes? Good job…
Once again, this should be taken with a huge grain of salt...