I REALLY enjoy watching your videos. These are the kind of videos people want to see. You actually show your work . I am so glad that I found Your channel. I'm looking forward to many more videos.
Absolutely LOVED this video! Thank you so much for making it. It's like I was there in person troubleshooting with you and learning along the way. I glean great tips from you every time I watch one of your videos, and this one had several unexpected gems that I really appreciated. The water pump culprit took me by surprise, as well. Also, I really appreciate the tip on using rubber tubing to replace the lid hinge bushing. I have a need for that right now, so the timing of that tip was perfect. Can you tell me the inside and outside diameter of the tubing you used? Would love to see a video of how you wash, sand, and paint both the base and cabinet on a direct drive washer like this.
Wow, I absolutely LOVE your comment! Thanks for letting me know you enjoy my content. That hose is just some old pressure hose from a junked out whirlpool washer. I have no idea of the specs on it but it fits perfectly on those lid hinges. I have a lot of footage of washing, sanding and painting bases and cabinets but every time I review it it almost puts me to sleep so I figured it wouldn't be a very good video to put out there. But I think I can squeeze in a segment on an upcoming video where I have to repair a serious rust issue around a bleach dispenser. Hey, man...Thanks for watching!
At the first moment when the washing machine was slow in spinning, I immediately deduced that it was the pump that was slowing down, because the motor started and the capacitor only acts for the start and then is disconnected by means of the centrifugal switch. It's happened to me several times, in fact I've gotten socks stuck inside the pump. This is my favorite washing machine, they are practical and easy to repair, of course as long as you get the right refractions.
I am glad to have seen your video and it has shown me a lot helping me with my diy on my machine. A suggestion, when you are changing a part or saying this is not working give some possible reason as to why so we can understand your logic. I will continue subscribing.
Your videos cover every possibility. Even the stuff that most people would never consider. Here is my goofy question for you this time. Can a motor like these be re-greased? Or is it even worth it. I guess just get another motor when the time comes?
As far as I can tell you can’t separate the housing to get to the bearings. I have dripped oil down the shaft to quiet a squeak but had to eventually change that motor. Thanks for commenting!
I have a Maytag super capacity washer that is having difficulty removing all the water in spin cycle. Wet towels. Any thought as to what to do would be appreciated. I love your videos!
It’s bada$$ u rebuilt that washer in an hours time….and made it look easy! I know it’s much more difficult and u have done it a million times but it’s still bada$$! lol
In your professional opinion. I took a handful of rust fragments from under the drum in the bowl. Worth buying a clutch or call it a goner? Motor sounds good. Drum wouldn't spin. Brake is loose. Assuming clutch. Thoughts? I do have a concern a 2in cotter pin fell out. I have no idea if it is part of the machine. Looks about the same dimensions of an 8 penny nail that is flat on one side and a hole through the tip and shorter. It has the zinc chromate finish. Your video allowed me to get this thing into parts rather quickly. Thank you.
It spins! It does have a bit of a wobble once it is up to speed. Guessing it is the shroud and not the axil. Starting to spin I don't see any movement in the axil. Anyway... it Spins! Thank you! @@HarperandKnowles
I also found a similar pin when my machine broke down and nobody seem to know what it is for. It is a whirlpool direct drive top loader and is 15yrs old.
If this pin is about 3 inches long and has a hole in one end it is probably one of the shipping pins. There are three of these that are designed to fall into small plastic cups under your machine once the yellow strap on the rear of the machine is removed during setup. These pins hold the triangular skate plate in place so that it doesn’t move out of place during shipping. This is why you should never move a washer of this type by laying it down. The plate will shift and ride up on the fins on the underside of the tub and crack the tub when it fills with water. Thanks for watching.
If you're on a tight budget like I am....you try fixing things the least costly way. To replace the bushings in the tub support is a pain. I find it's difficult to knock those old bushings out and put new ones in. Most techs around here just put in a new tub support that has new bushings in it. Didn't Whirlpool or someone make a tool for doing that job? I'm pretty sure there was a tool for this. Would you happen to know a part number for that tool? And a source to get one? As always.....your videos cover what's needed. And you always take the time to answer questions. I can't tell you how much I appreciate that.
I would suppose that Whirlpool has to make a tool for this but I made my own. If you find a source for one I’d love to know about it. That would be my next tool purchase. Thanks for your kind comment and for watching my videos too!
I thank you for explain that problum of slow spin you did take time to explain look for to see more of your viedoes How can i get a direct link to you to ask what to do how to fix Is this normal when washing does the adjtaitar turns around clock wise fast ?
While washing the agitator should turn in both directions on the bottom part. If a two part agitator the top piece turns in only one direction if the cams aren’t worn out.
I see a lot of RUclipsrs making this exact same mistake . You buy one of these for $20 bucks , you turn the knob to spin cycle on regulator or heavy duty cycle . You fix the issue and clean it up and test it . The washer gets to a customer home , they turn the knob to delicate cycle and nothing happens ! You gotta always test both phases of a 2 speed motor ! Test the spin cycle in normal and delicate !!😜⚠️😜⚠️
No problem! I live in West Virginia! People love to over load their washers ! We are seeing a lot of kenmore motors with rounded off shafts . I build them up with a mig welder and grind it some so that the coupler fits tight !
This is a great video! It makes me want to replace ALL the parts! Haha Question though, what would make the machine leak what appears to be grease? It doesn’t seem like it has a transmission fluid consistency. Any tips? I’ve cleaned it up a few times to try to pinpoint where it’s coming from, but no luck.
Sometimes a buildup of fabric softener will do this. You should remove the case and splash guard (assuming it is a Kenmore or Whirlpool product) and clean the goo from the tub. It’s usually built up around the top of the water line. It is rare to be coming from your machine. The source of the oil would be the transmission and it would have to crawl up the shaft and through the seal to get into your washer. If the seal is damaged then you have another problem. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowlesno fluid in the machine, just on the floor below, I’ll clean those areas for preventive maintenance, but we stopped using fabric softener about a year ago. 🙏🏼
I appreciate this video so much!! I also have this washer. At the start of the spin/drain cycle, it no longer spins while it drains. When the motor pauses and restarts, then it starts spinning no problem. I checked the clutch and coupler several months ago (using other tutorials for reference), and they seemed fine. The first few years i had this washer, it would start spinning right at the beginning of the drain cycle, but it doesn't anymore. The rest of the cycle finishes just fine. Any thoughts? Another recent development....it makes a loud ticking/knocking noise at the start of the spin cycle. The sound fades away after a couple minutes. Could that be the clutch finally going out, or something else? I hope this all makes sense. And now after watching this video, you have me wanting to check my water pump and capacitor. 😅 I appreciate any feedback you may have. 🙂
It sounds as if the washer is working just fine. It is supposed to stop then drain, then pause and spin when it restarts. It wasn’t working correctly when you first got it but somehow corrected itself. As for the ticking, that’s probably normal wear on the transmission. Don’t over think it. Just fix it when it breaks!! Thanks for watching!
Ok.....another day......another question. What size pvc pipe are you using to drive in those shaft seals? I found that an old discarded Maglite body tube(D size battery flashlight) Fits pretty good for the spin shaft seal. Just stack an old o-ring between the new seal and the flashlight body for protection of new seal. Don't forget to remove that sacrificial o-ring or it's gonna count towards one of those stupid mistakes that we allow ourselves. Lol.
My washer won't spin before and after the rinse cycle, the water does drain but somehow the agitator does not work. Sears Canada does not exist anymore and I've been told Kenmore 70 series have unreplacable parts. Should I buy new machine instead ?
I got a question for ya.i have a Kenmore 70 series and the motor coupler went bad. I found it on the floor after I order the part .. to make a long story short put it back together and now its spinning etc all that good stuff but I can stop it with my hand and its making a clicking noise now ? I put it all back together correctly but now I do not know why it doing this. It's still works spinning all that bit now the clicking and its stopping with the weighted pressure ?
It sounds like you need a new clutch. There may also be something dragging on the spin basket which will cause the clutch to slip and prevent the motor from spinning up to speed making it slow enough to reengage the start windings and causing it to click. Thanks for watching!
I have the same washer , it goes through the wash cycle but doesn’t drain or spin . Doesn’t sound the the drain pump is even kicking on . So I suspect bad time ..? Any thoughts lid switch is fine
I have a Kenmore 70 series an it stop running.it was in the wash cycle going to the rinse cycle and it just stop it will not do anything but fill the water level.
Ok....need your expert answer on something . What is that rubber like ring that goes around the outside of the brake housing at the bottom of the tub support? Should it be up towards the top of that break drum that the break shoes fit in or just where? What is its purpose?
That is a sound dampening device. Those brake shoes will ring that drum like a bell. It doesn’t really matter how it goes on. It’s usually positioned somewhere around the middle. Thanks for watching!
Have you worked on a speed queen? Aren't they built similar to the whirlpools? They are famous for longevity but pricy. The old whirlpools last a long time too. Not the new ones.
I’ve seen two Speed Queens in the last six years. One was at a nursing home where they spilled two gallons of bleach that leaked onto the electronics. A board replacement fixed it. The other was for a guy whose wife unplugged it to vacuum and forgot to plug it back in. That one was over forty years old and still running well.
One more question.....I know silicone is the best lube for those shaft seals.....but, should any grease or lube be put on those bushings where the spin shaft turns? If so....what to use since that lube will eventually come in contact with those shaft seal? Seems like that grease would need to be petroleum based and that's supposed to be bad for the rubber seals. Ok.....I'll stop bugging you at least for now.
That’s a great question and one that I don’t know the answer to. Perhaps there’s a tech out there that knows what Whirlpool recommended for that, back in the day.
I have a Kenmore series 80 washing machine. It filled up and then nothing. After testing it, it seems that the tab on the lid that pushes the safety switch down must have broken off some of the tip and is now too short to push the switch down. I'm not even sure what that part is called to look up any information. Any idea how to take that tab off and replace it?
@@HarperandKnowles Yes, it is a lid switch strike, but not that particular part, although you link was helpful in helping me find what I need. I did find the correct part in ebay, but the seller wants $45.00 for it. I can't stop laughing at his expectations in believing someone would pay that much for an inch of plastic with a washer.
At 10:08 I there are 2 white plastic cups mounted to the triangular part of the base that contain a nail shaped pin. Are those pins just shipping pins? Can they be discarded or do they have a purpose?
@@HarperandKnowles Thank You very much. I have one other question if it is not too much trouble. I have been looking through your videos, but I can't find an image of how the agitator clip is positioned on the plastic washer. Is the mouth of the agitator clip supposed to face the vertical leg of the plastic washer?
@@HarperandKnowles Hi Harper, My transmission was very old and leaking so I just replaced the transmission. After the install the machine is still doing the same thing that it was before I replaced it. It is making grinding noises and it will lock up and stop the motor. There is not much left down there to replace, but I was hoping to get your opinion on the cause before I just throw more parts at it. Can the clutch cause it to lock up?
There might be something wrong with the brakes. Remove the spin tube and examine the brake shoes and their components for abnormal wear. Also, check your motor bearings/bushings.
Do you work on any of the newer machines? I have a GE gtw680bmm0ws , these have the transmission attached to a plate assembly. Its spin is so loud I’m thinking the bearings may be shot. But I guess there’s no way to fix that , short of buying a new assembly. Very expensive. I don’t know what else could be causing this, other than that it works well.
Also on these series 70 transmissions if the shaft can be turned quite easily without the drive axle turning what you recommend for dealing with that? The gear I’m guessing is gone, however if you turn the the drive axle where the coupler is the shaft does turn.
That can fool you. If the spin paul isn't engaging the spin gear, the pinion gear will move freely. If you turn it at the drive axle, it is designed to throw out the spin paul to engage the spin gear or shift the mechanism at the bottom of the shaft to agitate, depending on the direction you turn it. What I think you are missing here is that the shaft operates the agitation cycle while the pinion gear at the bottom of the shaft spins the tub. If the transmission is in spin mode, the shaft is neutral and will spin freely.
I have the same model 70 series, after the neutral drain ends it does not spin. I am able to make it spin if I push the timer off then on again. It does not go into spin mode otherwise. What can be the problem. Timer or transmission maybe.?
How are you doing DIY Brothers i have a GE gtw220ack7ww and it will not spin it will fill wash drain pump works just won't spin or lock the lid anyone see this issue before thanks
Hell yes! Ive got an older…maybe early 2000 model kenmore direct drive that stopped working after getting too off balanced and I didn’t make it in to stop it soon enough…now I’m kicking myself for trying to wash throw pillows….idc though…I’m rebuilding it. Or using it for parts on a different one if I’m lucky to find another one.,.I find tons of the new ones and won’t even bother with them…they’ve all been garbage and unfixable on purpose imo after dragging 7 of them home and trying to fix them. What a waste of time and money honestly! I’d pay more for an older model if it’s been refurbished…hell yeah I would! I’d at least know I’m getting more than a few months out of an older one…it’ll last another 10+ years easily!
Can you tell me what would cause a very loud banging noise on a Kenmore series 70 when while in spin mode and you open the door or you disengage the door switch and the tub stops spinning. The tub doesn’t stop spinning immediately but slows down whilst making a loud banging noise. Could that be bad breaks?
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I REALLY enjoy watching your videos. These are the kind of videos people want to see. You actually show your work . I am so glad that I found Your channel. I'm looking forward to many more videos.
Thank you for your kind comment. I’m looking forward to making many more videos too. Thanks for watching!
I've learned more on how to DX an issue with your video than I would have spent half a day tearing one apart. 👍 THANK YOU.
I’m glad my video was useful. Thanks for watching!
I watched this video three times. Excellent! I learned ALOT!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching so much!
Absolutely LOVED this video! Thank you so much for making it. It's like I was there in person troubleshooting with you and learning along the way. I glean great tips from you every time I watch one of your videos, and this one had several unexpected gems that I really appreciated. The water pump culprit took me by surprise, as well. Also, I really appreciate the tip on using rubber tubing to replace the lid hinge bushing. I have a need for that right now, so the timing of that tip was perfect. Can you tell me the inside and outside diameter of the tubing you used?
Would love to see a video of how you wash, sand, and paint both the base and cabinet on a direct drive washer like this.
Wow, I absolutely LOVE your comment! Thanks for letting me know you enjoy my content. That hose is just some old pressure hose from a junked out whirlpool washer. I have no idea of the specs on it but it fits perfectly on those lid hinges. I have a lot of footage of washing, sanding and painting bases and cabinets but every time I review it it almost puts me to sleep so I figured it wouldn't be a very good video to put out there. But I think I can squeeze in a segment on an upcoming video where I have to repair a serious rust issue around a bleach dispenser. Hey, man...Thanks for watching!
Hey I want to thank you guys for helping me it was the lid switch on that 70 series Kenmore. I'm happy 😊
You’re welcome!
At the first moment when the washing machine was slow in spinning, I immediately deduced that it was the pump that was slowing down, because the motor started and the capacitor only acts for the start and then is disconnected by means of the centrifugal switch. It's happened to me several times, in fact I've gotten socks stuck inside the pump. This is my favorite washing machine, they are practical and easy to repair, of course as long as you get the right refractions.
Thanks for watching!
I am glad to have seen your video and it has shown me a lot helping me with my diy on my machine. A suggestion, when you are changing a part or saying this is not working give some possible reason as to why so we can understand your logic. I will continue subscribing.
I have a tendency to forget the camera and about you guys observing me. I’ll try to do better. Thanks for watching!
Your videos cover every possibility. Even the stuff that most people would never consider.
Here is my goofy question for you this time. Can a motor like these be re-greased? Or is it even worth it. I guess just get another motor when the time comes?
As far as I can tell you can’t separate the housing to get to the bearings. I have dripped oil down the shaft to quiet a squeak but had to eventually change that motor. Thanks for commenting!
I have a Maytag super capacity washer that is having difficulty removing all the water in spin cycle. Wet towels. Any thought as to what to do would be appreciated. I love your videos!
What’s the model number?
It’s bada$$ u rebuilt that washer in an hours time….and made it look easy! I know it’s much more difficult and u have done it a million times but it’s still bada$$! lol
Ha! Thanks for watching!
In your professional opinion. I took a handful of rust fragments from under the drum in the bowl. Worth buying a clutch or call it a goner? Motor sounds good. Drum wouldn't spin. Brake is loose. Assuming clutch. Thoughts? I do have a concern a 2in cotter pin fell out. I have no idea if it is part of the machine. Looks about the same dimensions of an 8 penny nail that is flat on one side and a hole through the tip and shorter. It has the zinc chromate finish. Your video allowed me to get this thing into parts rather quickly. Thank you.
There are no cotter pins on the machine. Must have come from a pocket. Clutches are cheap, Give it a try. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles Thanks, I'll let you know.
It spins! It does have a bit of a wobble once it is up to speed. Guessing it is the shroud and not the axil. Starting to spin I don't see any movement in the axil. Anyway... it Spins! Thank you! @@HarperandKnowles
I also found a similar pin when my machine broke down and nobody seem to know what it is for. It is a whirlpool direct drive top loader and is 15yrs old.
If this pin is about 3 inches long and has a hole in one end it is probably one of the shipping pins. There are three of these that are designed to fall into small plastic cups under your machine once the yellow strap on the rear of the machine is removed during setup. These pins hold the triangular skate plate in place so that it doesn’t move out of place during shipping. This is why you should never move a washer of this type by laying it down. The plate will shift and ride up on the fins on the underside of the tub and crack the tub when it fills with water. Thanks for watching.
If you're on a tight budget like I am....you try fixing things the least costly way. To replace the bushings in the tub support is a pain. I find it's difficult to knock those old bushings out and put new ones in. Most techs around here just put in a new tub support that has new bushings in it.
Didn't Whirlpool or someone make a tool for doing that job?
I'm pretty sure there was a tool for this.
Would you happen to know a part number for that tool?
And a source to get one?
As always.....your videos cover what's needed.
And you always take the time to answer questions.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate that.
I would suppose that Whirlpool has to make a tool for this but I made my own. If you find a source for one I’d love to know about it. That would be my next tool purchase. Thanks for your kind comment and for watching my videos too!
I thank you for explain that problum of slow spin you did take time to explain look for to see more of your viedoes
How can i get a direct link to you to ask what to do how to fix
Is this normal when washing does the adjtaitar turns around clock wise fast ?
You can comment on any video. I read all my comments and try to answer as many as possible.
While washing the agitator should turn in both directions on the bottom part. If a two part agitator the top piece turns in only one direction if the cams aren’t worn out.
I see a lot of RUclipsrs making this exact same mistake . You buy one of these for $20 bucks , you turn the knob to spin cycle on regulator or heavy duty cycle . You fix the issue and clean it up and test it . The washer gets to a customer home , they turn the knob to delicate cycle and nothing happens ! You gotta always test both phases of a 2 speed motor ! Test the spin cycle in normal and delicate !!😜⚠️😜⚠️
Thanks for the tip!
No problem! I live in West Virginia! People love to over load their washers ! We are seeing a lot of kenmore motors with rounded off shafts . I build them up with a mig welder and grind it some so that the coupler fits tight !
How do you keep from overheating the bearings?
@@crazee6821I arc welded the motor shaft. Stick. Coupler tight now. In South Africa.
This is a great video! It makes me want to replace ALL the parts! Haha
Question though, what would make the machine leak what appears to be grease? It doesn’t seem like it has a transmission fluid consistency. Any tips? I’ve cleaned it up a few times to try to pinpoint where it’s coming from, but no luck.
Sometimes a buildup of fabric softener will do this. You should remove the case and splash guard (assuming it is a Kenmore or Whirlpool product) and clean the goo from the tub. It’s usually built up around the top of the water line. It is rare to be coming from your machine. The source of the oil would be the transmission and it would have to crawl up the shaft and through the seal to get into your washer. If the seal is damaged then you have another problem. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowlesno fluid in the machine, just on the floor below, I’ll clean those areas for preventive maintenance, but we stopped using fabric softener about a year ago. 🙏🏼
I appreciate this video so much!! I also have this washer. At the start of the spin/drain cycle, it no longer spins while it drains. When the motor pauses and restarts, then it starts spinning no problem. I checked the clutch and coupler several months ago (using other tutorials for reference), and they seemed fine. The first few years i had this washer, it would start spinning right at the beginning of the drain cycle, but it doesn't anymore. The rest of the cycle finishes just fine. Any thoughts?
Another recent development....it makes a loud ticking/knocking noise at the start of the spin cycle. The sound fades away after a couple minutes. Could that be the clutch finally going out, or something else?
I hope this all makes sense.
And now after watching this video, you have me wanting to check my water pump and capacitor. 😅
I appreciate any feedback you may have. 🙂
It sounds as if the washer is working just fine. It is supposed to stop then drain, then pause and spin when it restarts. It wasn’t working correctly when you first got it but somehow corrected itself. As for the ticking, that’s probably normal wear on the transmission. Don’t over think it. Just fix it when it breaks!! Thanks for watching!
Excellent video.
Thank you! Thanks for watching it!
Hi, what kind of paint do you use on these? Loved the video!
Rustoleum Appliance epoxy. Thanks for watching!
Chip good to see someone else having those moments 😂
It happens to us all, doesn’t it? Thanks for watching, Paul.
Ok.....another day......another question.
What size pvc pipe are you using to drive in those shaft seals?
I found that an old discarded Maglite body tube(D size battery flashlight) Fits pretty good for the spin shaft seal. Just stack an old o-ring between the new seal and the flashlight body for protection of new seal. Don't forget to remove that sacrificial o-ring or it's gonna count towards one of those stupid mistakes that we allow ourselves. Lol.
I think it is 3/4 inch and tapered on a disk sander to fit the shoulder of the seal.
My washer won't spin before and after the rinse cycle, the water does drain but somehow the agitator does not work. Sears Canada does not exist anymore and I've been told Kenmore 70 series have unreplacable parts. Should I buy new machine instead ?
It could be as simple as a lid switch or a bad clutch. Whirlpool made this machine and the parts are still available. Thanks for watching!
I got a question for ya.i have a Kenmore 70 series and the motor coupler went bad. I found it on the floor after I order the part .. to make a long story short put it back together and now its spinning etc all that good stuff but I can stop it with my hand and its making a clicking noise now ? I put it all back together correctly but now I do not know why it doing this. It's still works spinning all that bit now the clicking and its stopping with the weighted pressure ?
It sounds like you need a new clutch. There may also be something dragging on the spin basket which will cause the clutch to slip and prevent the motor from spinning up to speed making it slow enough to reengage the start windings and causing it to click. Thanks for watching!
I have the same washer , it goes through the wash cycle but doesn’t drain or spin . Doesn’t sound the the drain pump is even kicking on . So I suspect bad time ..? Any thoughts lid switch is fine
I would have suspected the lid switch. Try bypassing it anyway. Thanks for watching!
I have the same washer and I does not drain or spin what could it be.
Nah, gotta be the lid switch. Thanks for watching!
It was the lid switch even though it clicked seemed fine , I got a new one and it worked! Thanks
You are welcome1
I have a Kenmore 70 series an it stop running.it was in the wash cycle going to the rinse cycle and it just stop it will not do anything but fill the water level.
Change the lid switch. Thanks for watching!
Ok....need your expert answer on something .
What is that rubber like ring that goes around the outside of the brake housing at the bottom of the tub support? Should it be up towards the top of that break drum that the break shoes fit in or just where?
What is its purpose?
That is a sound dampening device. Those brake shoes will ring that drum like a bell. It doesn’t really matter how it goes on. It’s usually positioned somewhere around the middle. Thanks for watching!
Have you worked on a speed queen? Aren't they built similar to the whirlpools? They are famous for longevity but pricy. The old whirlpools last a long time too. Not the new ones.
I’ve seen two Speed Queens in the last six years. One was at a nursing home where they spilled two gallons of bleach that leaked onto the electronics. A board replacement fixed it. The other was for a guy whose wife unplugged it to vacuum and forgot to plug it back in. That one was over forty years old and still running well.
Great content, thanks!
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!
One more question.....I know silicone is the best lube for those shaft seals.....but, should any grease or lube be put on those bushings where the spin shaft turns?
If so....what to use since that lube will eventually come in contact with those shaft seal?
Seems like that grease would need to be petroleum based and that's supposed to be bad for the rubber seals.
Ok.....I'll stop bugging you at least for now.
That’s a great question and one that I don’t know the answer to. Perhaps there’s a tech out there that knows what Whirlpool recommended for that, back in the day.
I have a Kenmore series 80 washing machine. It filled up and then nothing. After testing it, it seems that the tab on the lid that pushes the safety switch down must have broken off some of the tip and is now too short to push the switch down. I'm not even sure what that part is called to look up any information. Any idea how to take that tab off and replace it?
Here is what you probably need amzn.to/3VSDU4p. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles Yes, it is a lid switch strike, but not that particular part, although you link was helpful in helping me find what I need. I did find the correct part in ebay, but the seller wants $45.00 for it. I can't stop laughing at his expectations in believing someone would pay that much for an inch of plastic with a washer.
At 10:08 I there are 2 white plastic cups mounted to the triangular part of the base that contain a nail shaped pin. Are those pins just shipping pins? Can they be discarded or do they have a purpose?
They are shipping pins. You can toss them. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles Thank You very much. I have one other question if it is not too much trouble. I have been looking through your videos, but I can't find an image of how the agitator clip is positioned on the plastic washer. Is the mouth of the agitator clip supposed to face the vertical leg of the plastic washer?
Yes. You got it correct!
@@HarperandKnowles Hi Harper, My transmission was very old and leaking so I just replaced the transmission. After the install the machine is still doing the same thing that it was before I replaced it. It is making grinding noises and it will lock up and stop the motor. There is not much left down there to replace, but I was hoping to get your opinion on the cause before I just throw more parts at it. Can the clutch cause it to lock up?
There might be something wrong with the brakes. Remove the spin tube and examine the brake shoes and their components for abnormal wear. Also, check your motor bearings/bushings.
Do you work on any of the newer machines? I have a GE gtw680bmm0ws , these have the transmission attached to a plate assembly. Its spin is so loud I’m thinking the bearings may be shot. But I guess there’s no way to fix that , short of buying a new assembly. Very expensive. I don’t know what else could be causing this, other than that it works well.
Yep, your bearings are gone. It will start leaking next or fail to complete cycles. It might be a good time to replace it. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles so there is no way to repair these hey?
Also on these series 70 transmissions if the shaft can be turned quite easily without the drive axle turning what you recommend for dealing with that? The gear I’m guessing is gone, however if you turn the the drive axle where the coupler is the shaft does turn.
You can repair anything if you throw enough new parts at it, but is it economical to do so?
That can fool you. If the spin paul isn't engaging the spin gear, the pinion gear will move freely. If you turn it at the drive axle, it is designed to throw out the spin paul to engage the spin gear or shift the mechanism at the bottom of the shaft to agitate, depending on the direction you turn it. What I think you are missing here is that the shaft operates the agitation cycle while the pinion gear at the bottom of the shaft spins the tub. If the transmission is in spin mode, the shaft is neutral and will spin freely.
I have the same model 70 series, after the neutral drain ends it does not spin. I am able to make it spin if I push the timer off then on again. It does not go into spin mode otherwise. What can be the problem. Timer or transmission maybe.?
The motor must stop then restart in order for it to go from drain to spin. If it isn’t stopping then it’s a timer problem. Thanks for watching!
Well done sir.
Thank you!
How are you doing DIY Brothers i have a GE gtw220ack7ww and it will not spin it will fill wash drain pump works just won't spin or lock the lid anyone see this issue before thanks
Change the lid lock. Thanks for watching!
Hell yes! Ive got an older…maybe early 2000 model kenmore direct drive that stopped working after getting too off balanced and I didn’t make it in to stop it soon enough…now I’m kicking myself for trying to wash throw pillows….idc though…I’m rebuilding it. Or using it for parts on a different one if I’m lucky to find another one.,.I find tons of the new ones and won’t even bother with them…they’ve all been garbage and unfixable on purpose imo after dragging 7 of them home and trying to fix them. What a waste of time and money honestly! I’d pay more for an older model if it’s been refurbished…hell yeah I would! I’d at least know I’m getting more than a few months out of an older one…it’ll last another 10+ years easily!
Get yourself a Speed Queen TC5. It’ll last 25 years. Thanks for watching.
Heck....I have gotten to where I allow myself 5 stupid mistakes a day.
Lol, I like your approach better! Thanks for watching!
Wish the camera dont moved so much . Got dizzy watching the video.
Yeah I fired the videographer! Thanks for watching anyway!
I enjoyed the camera view. I knew exactly what you're looking at. Thanks
Im glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching!
Can you tell me what would cause a very loud banging noise on a Kenmore series 70 when while in spin mode and you open the door or you disengage the door switch and the tub stops spinning. The tub doesn’t stop spinning immediately but slows down whilst making a loud banging noise. Could that be bad breaks?
It sounds like the slots in your spin block are stripped out. Thanks for watching!