As an artist who has owned his own commercial painting company, take some advise... 1) Use the largest roller you can get on the surface you are covering. Apply with wet roller, meaning NEVER dry roll, more paint over the surface is better. Dividing a panel in half make a nice little cut line where you left off, hence, the need to use a bigger roller and cover the entire panel in very little time using a lot more paint at once. Knocking the stipple down with a brush only works if you do it fast, as soon as you covered the board. 2) Use an orbital sander to smooth between coats, forget about trying to cover a 4 x 8 foot board by hand... and wait at least 4 to 6 hours before sanding, to give the paint time to air out any moisture deep under the initial skin of the coat. 3) Reapply a second coat just like the first, the paint will spread faster and easier than the first so you will use less. Sand just like on the first coat, and you are done.
Great vlog, Tanner, but about 90 panels too late for me (grin). I've been doing art for a number of years but have just come to oils. My first step was to create a lot of panels (9x12 and 6x8) from the same 2x4 panels you demonstrate. BUT, I hadn't heard about the use of a sealer before gesso so there isn't any on my panels. So far my panels haven't warped and they seem to be working ok (defined by a guy who doesn't know what he's doing). At this point I'm not worried about longevity as nothing I'm doing is very good as I'm just trying to figure out the basics of oils but the next batch will use a sealer. Thanks for the tip. BTW, your video work is really good, as is your scripting.
So, the back side gets only the primer - is that correct? Also, I've read some painters decry the use of house primers because, as they claim, are not archival. I've seen some artist use just the primer entirely instead of gesso to be economical. Not sure I want to go that route but do like the approach you are using as the reasoning sounds perfectly valid. What are your thoughts on the archival issue?
Both sides are primed to prevent moisture from getting into the wood. It is relatively archival. The best practice would be to use cabinet grade plywood to support the painting as it is far less likely to warp due to moisture.
@@tannersteedart Yeah, that was going to be my question. I have been using the 1/4" hardwood ply and doing almost the same thing as you. I went for the ply because of the stiffness, it just feels more sturdy. Chris
It is, but by priming the wood first with Zinser 123, you can save some money on the acrylic gesso. This method was taught to me directly from my mentor Daniel Sprick. We make our panels together in this exact way. The only addition to the process is some variation in the texture of the final layers. We use a large brush to create a subtle organic canvas weave. Brushing horizontally during one layer, followed by vertical marks in the next layer. Once the gesso has dried, we sand the last layer to ensure that the weave is not too apparent.
Not sure how an oil ground would work over the Zinsser product as I mostly use Gamblin pva size and their oil ground. A technique I am experimenting with to combat the absorbancy of gesso is to apply a thin coat of oil medium to the gessoed substrate and wipe most of it off as you don't want a very slick surface. This oil layer will get absorbed by the gesso which results in less of the oil in the paint being absorbed.
Hi, maybe it is too late but, I just want to point out that those masks are pretty bad to protect your lungs. You better buy a respirator mask for this job. Thanks for the video
1. Frightening photo of the panel on a table saw. D A N G E R O U S ! Do not do this. Inexcusable. Do it right or have a professional do it. 2. Ridiculous , amateurish use of sand paper. Inefficient and wasteful. Fold and tear half, then half, then half, use smaller pieces. Better yet, buy a palm sander. 3. After sanding the panel, vacuum or brush off the dust very lightly then use a slightly damp cloth or paper towels to wipe off the nearly invisible dust. Brush again with a different brush. If you don't do this the dust will get into your primer or gesso. 4, Amateurish use of applying the primer and gesso with a brush. Do it right or try a roller. 5. General use house paint primer, never. If you must rag on me for safety concerns and waste of time and materials... go for it.
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video Tanner, thank you. The only thing I would add is this... I typically cut my boards to size first, this way I can prime the sides as well.
As an artist who has owned his own commercial painting company, take some advise...
1) Use the largest roller you can get on the surface you are covering. Apply with wet roller, meaning NEVER dry roll, more paint over the surface is better. Dividing a panel in half make a nice little cut line where you left off, hence, the need to use a bigger roller and cover the entire panel in very little time using a lot more paint at once. Knocking the stipple down with a brush only works if you do it fast, as soon as you covered the board.
2) Use an orbital sander to smooth between coats, forget about trying to cover a 4 x 8 foot board by hand... and wait at least 4 to 6 hours before sanding, to give the paint time to air out any moisture deep under the initial skin of the coat.
3) Reapply a second coat just like the first, the paint will spread faster and easier than the first so you will use less. Sand just like on the first coat, and you are done.
Great advice! Thank you!
I do my panels too, but I have never used the sealer, I’m going to give a try…..thanks for all the info,love your videos…take care..
Great to hear and thank you for watching!
Great vlog, Tanner, but about 90 panels too late for me (grin). I've been doing art for a number of years but have just come to oils. My first step was to create a lot of panels (9x12 and 6x8) from the same 2x4 panels you demonstrate. BUT, I hadn't heard about the use of a sealer before gesso so there isn't any on my panels. So far my panels haven't warped and they seem to be working ok (defined by a guy who doesn't know what he's doing). At this point I'm not worried about longevity as nothing I'm doing is very good as I'm just trying to figure out the basics of oils but the next batch will use a sealer. Thanks for the tip. BTW, your video work is really good, as is your scripting.
you have to protect the edges too to protect it from moisture.
Yes, I was thinking the same thing, and even more because of the oil paint, getting in touch with the wood.
Thanks for the video!
What about using a spray primer or paint primer combo?
So, the back side gets only the primer - is that correct? Also, I've read some painters decry the use of house primers because, as they claim, are not archival. I've seen some artist use just the primer entirely instead of gesso to be economical. Not sure I want to go that route but do like the approach you are using as the reasoning sounds perfectly valid. What are your thoughts on the archival issue?
Both sides are primed to prevent moisture from getting into the wood. It is relatively archival. The best practice would be to use cabinet grade plywood to support the painting as it is far less likely to warp due to moisture.
@@tannersteedart Yeah, that was going to be my question. I have been using the 1/4" hardwood ply and doing almost the same thing as you. I went for the ply because of the stiffness, it just feels more sturdy. Chris
All my old paintings on masonite have ruined corners and they cannot be transfered to another surface.
That's unfortunate.
I LIKED
Do you prime the sides of board as well?
That is the best practice.
Isn't the gesso enough to prime the wood?
It is, but by priming the wood first with Zinser 123, you can save some money on the acrylic gesso. This method was taught to me directly from my mentor Daniel Sprick. We make our panels together in this exact way. The only addition to the process is some variation in the texture of the final layers. We use a large brush to create a subtle organic canvas weave. Brushing horizontally during one layer, followed by vertical marks in the next layer. Once the gesso has dried, we sand the last layer to ensure that the weave is not too apparent.
Is this good for charcoal and graphite drawing too?
Yes, I prefer to work on paper though. If you do use them on Hardboard, use ph neutral glue to adhear paper on it.
For archival I go for GAC100 as a sealer and cradled “Russian” Baltic Birch. Is it worth it? Check back with me in 200 years…
Why didn't you add the marble dust
I didn't have it!
Would it be possible to use an oil ground instead of gesso? I’ve heard that gesso has a high absorbency
You need to seal the wood first and then you can apply any ground you prefer.
Not sure how an oil ground would work over the Zinsser product as I mostly use Gamblin pva size and their oil ground. A technique I am experimenting with to combat the absorbancy of gesso is to apply a thin coat of oil medium to the gessoed substrate and wipe most of it off as you don't want a very slick surface. This oil layer will get absorbed by the gesso which results in less of the oil in the paint being absorbed.
Hi, maybe it is too late but, I just want to point out that those masks are pretty bad to protect your lungs. You better buy a respirator mask for this job.
Thanks for the video
1. Frightening photo of the panel on a table saw. D A N G E R O U S ! Do not do this. Inexcusable. Do it right or have a professional do it.
2. Ridiculous , amateurish use of sand paper. Inefficient and wasteful. Fold and tear half, then half, then half, use smaller pieces. Better yet, buy a palm sander.
3. After sanding the panel, vacuum or brush off the dust very lightly then use a slightly damp cloth or paper towels to wipe off the nearly invisible dust.
Brush again with a different brush. If you don't do this the dust will get into your primer or gesso.
4, Amateurish use of applying the primer and gesso with a brush. Do it right or try a roller.
5. General use house paint primer, never.
If you must rag on me for safety concerns and waste of time and materials... go for it.