Hmm, think I'll give this a try. I typically build birch wood panels but this would save time and increase rigidity on larger pieces. Can cut without power tools too. Thanks for sharing!
Great explanation. I am researching beyond canvas or wood birch panels now. I have needed quite a dynamic surface for a few art techniques from painting to airbrush as well as digital imaging and varied printing also. I did graphic design for years but I started by drawing and painting when I was younger. So now retired to do my own original art. So this DiBond simplifies for many of my art methods in one material. This is fantastic, with even more advantages I am hearing. Thank's Aaron for your perspective...you have provided. I just printed a complex wood panel which looks great but with blemishes due to inconsistency between panels 1/8th off and a raw face ads to my issues a bit. Canvas and wood gessoed still is too much work. So DiBond changes all this BIGTiME Thanks for this video its changing how I work😊.
Thanks Aaron. I had no idea about DiBond until now. It makes great sense. No more stretching canvas, or building wood panels. It looks really easy. Ordering some tomorrow. Cheers.
Great thanks my art teacher gave a small piece for an assignment . Your video was so helpful and she left us up to our own devices to figure out what to do with you . Happy Painting
Thanks Aaron. Great video on how etc. to use ACM. Clear, covered everything I needed to know. As well as using new panels I’m enjoying the challenge of scavenging acm that has been used for business signage.
@@hilarydorricott8454 retail shops having signs replaced, warehouses being demolished pretty much anywhere you see a sign being taken down is an opportunity.
I never heard of it and there is an option to buy a reproduction on this surface. I’m glad you made this video because I was wondering why this would be more expensive.
I just started painting again and Im so happy I stumbled upon your video! Thank you so much for the info! Will definitely try painting on a dibond! Btw your portraits are sooooo amazing..
Very informative video. I have been looking for something durable to use for my paintings. Looks to be just what I need will give this a try. Thank you for sharing.
Nicely done video. Very informative. A couple minor corrections however. ACM, in this case, is an acronym for Aluminum Composite Material not Acrylic Composite Material. Dibond is made by 3A Composites not 3M.
Love this! Ever since I saw how they make signs I've been wondering where to get this material. Thinking about getting a gold or silver colored sheet and painting over it, letting the background shine through.
If you have a table saw it can be used to cut this also. Just be aware that if you have a sawstop table saw to make sure you put it in bypass mode to do this
Got some Dibond today, A friend recommended ur channel. Thx Mate for you're advice how to prepare it Mate. Love ur portraits also and will check ur channel out on the weekend. Cheer's from Sydney 🔔🎨👍
👍Hi, I've had a a go with genetic ACM, but I use the uncoated side. Sand the bare metal, works fine. And there's zero chance of chemical residue from a coating (which the other side may have... But I suppose the gesso fixes that). Cheers, Steve
Correct me if I am wrong, but is my understanding that aluminum does not rust but it can corrode over time. Seen it on many street signs. Of course all materials will degrade, but am wondering how long before corrosion sets in with aluminum. Longer than linen? Am consider Dibond for future oil painting but would be nice to know if any issues with corrosion as may be exposed to linseed oil. And if I apply a barrier, what keeps that barrier from causing corrosion?
Great video..!! I am now planning to move from canvas to ACP panel. But for large size ( 4*4 ft) the panel bends. Kindly advise how to frame it or how to support it. Also how should we move the framed painting inter-city safely. Thanks in advance.
it is possible to find ACM that doesn't bend at large sizes (there are variations with thicker acrylic that don't flex as much). but I always frame my paintings in picture frames, which look good on a wall (since ACM panels are too thin to hang without) and also serve to brace the panels in the event there is some flex at larger sizes. when I have worked on panels that are big enough to flex, it's not nearly enough for it to be a hindrance when I'm actually working, and I know I can fix it with a good picture frame later. I imagine you could easily glue the panel to an aluminum or wood frame (as you would with a wood panel) if you wanted it supported while you worked on it or if you weren't planning on an actual picture frame. hope that helps!
Hi Aaron, thx for the informative Video. Is there a benefit on using the side with the Plastic coating compared to using the Aluminium side? Best regards Gary
hi Gary. acm panels can either have bare aluminum or lacquered aluminum on both sides. some are one side of each, most DiBond or e-panel are both lacquered. but to answer your question, it depends on how you're prepping the surface. if you're doing many layers of acrylic gesso, it probably doesn't make any difference at all. my experience is the laquered side(s) are slightly more resistant to dings and dents and scratches, so make a better surface -- but only by a little. always good to do a little test of whatever you are prepping your surface with, to make sure it adheres well.
thank you! aluminum often is a lot thinner (unless it is glued to a core or framed) which make it more bendy at larger sizes. I do think ACM is a little cheaper, but honestly otherwise, once you gesso it a bunch, painting on it is mostly the same. I've used ACM without lacquer, in which case you are still painting on aluminum.
This was a fantastic video and exactly what I was looking for. I'm about to embark on a huge mural on composite panel. I'm thinking of using a few laters of smart prime before painting with low sheen acrylics. It's going to go outside on a north facing wall. Any tips?
thank you! so glad it helped. I don't really have any experience painting outdoor surfaces -- the dibond will certainly hold up but not sure about actual paints our outdoor rated primers. good luck with your project!
HI Aaron, quick question, I have been using diabond for a while, when I use acrylic gesso, i did a scratch test, it came of easy, am I doing something wrong, maybe not enough layers, or sanding, thanks for your video its priceless for me, also do you use oil primer.
you may be applying the acrylic gesso too thickly. I keep the first 2-3 layers pretty thin and only have issues if I let too much gesso build up on the sides of the panel. I've been using sandable hard surface gesso lately which seems to stick much better and requires fewer layers. oil ground also works great.
How do you finish the edges which show the layers of composite material? I can see the plastic in between the outer layers. Do I fill it in with gesso?
you can certainly paint the edges with gesso, just like any other flat panel. of course, if you plan to frame it, the edges will be covered anyway. personally I leave the edge exposed -- doesn't bother me at all.
Hi Aaron, I’ve been using Winsor Newton oil primer on ACM which has been excellent but I am thinking about trying Golden Sandable Hard gesso which I see in the comments you have been using recently. Two questions Have you noticed if it absorbs the oil out of the oil paint too much leaving matte spots and do you water it down at all for the first coat?
hey there/ I have been using sandable hard gesso for the last few paintings. I definitely haven't noticed any matte spots. as a painting surface, it doesn't feel that much different than regular acrylic gesso. it's perhaps a little less smooth, and a little more absorbent (like an oil ground), and doesn't have the plastic feel of reg acrylic. I don't water down at all, and usually 3-4 coats does it with some light sanding in between most layers. hope that helps!
@@AaronNagel1 Thanks very much. It sounds like it might suit me. I do like Winsor but it’s sometimes hard to get, and it is pretty strong smelling so I think I will give Golden a try. I’ve been to your website too, really beautiful paintings. Thanks again.
Thank you!!! I tend to work, for smaller paintings, on waterproof MDF wood panels cut to size. However I now would like to paint something measuring 80cm by 54cm and was thinking dibon could be a good alternative. I am always afraid that after a certain size, warping can be an issue, and something cradled would be safer.
there is some flex in some variations of acm panels at larger sizes, I would definitely not be very concerned with something 80cm x 54cm though. even if the panels do flex a bit at larger sizes, they can easily be tamed by framing them (which you likely have to do anyway). there are variations with thicker acrylic and thinner aluminum that are a lot more rigid -- check out e-panels. i've painted as big as 54in x 66in on e-panel with no issues.
@@AaronNagel1 Thank you for your help and answer I appreciate it. I haven't heard of e-panels so I will definitely have a look. I live in the UK and many websites which sell sheets of plastic are so confusing as the choices are endless :) Thank you again
@@maudale it can be confusing! especially since acm is relatively new and brand names get in the mix. e-panel is a chinese made version with the license from 3A. the ones i've used tend to have thicker acrylic and thinner aluminum, which make them more rigid, cheaper, and easier to cut. good luck!
Can acrylic paint or alcohol inks be used on the surface without adding gesso? Thank you for your very informative video. I had never heard of using this before! ❤
the gesso I use is acrylic, so acrylics work fine. the surface is very smooth though, so one thick layer would be pretty easy to just pull off. a bunch of thin layers of gesso helps to provide more tooth. but you could probably use a workable fixative or size to make sure things stay in place. do some experimenting though! I've never used alcohol inks, so can't help you there.
Aaron, thanks for this great video! ACM definitely offers some interesting benefits. I'm wondering what the white coating is that's already in place on the panel you used? I don't mean your layers of gesso, but the white layer that already exists before you do that. Also, is there any way to hang these without framing them? Thanks so much!
acm panels can come lacquered depending on the brand. so you're not painting directly on metal, but a lacquered metal. honestly, since we are applying gesso, it probably doesn't make that much difference but it's more common. and yes, you can certainly add framing hardware to the back of these panels with epoxy. not sure I would trust it for very big panels but smaller ones would be fine. (I usually float my panels when they are framed so they are actually glued to wood supports within a frame).
Cool idea, thanks for the info! I decided to try it and bought a Dibond panel. Unfortunately, the gesso layers started un-gluing from the edges. I think it's because they are too sharp, even when sanded, or maybe I did not sand them enough. But it feels like the edge "cuts" the layer of the gesso and the gesso acts as a homogenous material, like a sort of an elastic sticker, that can be easily pulled away from the surface. I guess it's either because I mixed it with Gac-100 (to make the gesso less absorbent) which made the gesso more elastic, or because the Dibond itself has no pores for the gesso to really grab to. Something to note is I used the matte side of the Dibond and also sanded it, but this happens despite all that. Do you happen to have any tips for that? Maybe I am missing something? Also, a good thing to note, for future me at least, is to sand edges perpendicular to their direction. Otherwise, the sanding paper gets cut by the sharp Dibond edges.
i've noticed if you let the gesso built up on the edges, you can get a flexible chunk of gesso that can totally make it easier to pull the gesso away from the panel. the solutions to this are definitely sand the edges (perpendicular) so they aren't as sharp and more round, and don't let the gesso build up on the sides of the panel (so for every layer of gesso, just wipe the edges before it dries). or you can trim the gesso on the sides with a blade so there isn't any gesso that isn't on just the front surface. that solves the issue for me. you can also use an oil painting ground (I use Rublev's Lead Alkyd Ground) that only takes x2 coats. hope that helps!
Thank so much - great video - I am a huge fan of your artwork - could you recommend the best type of Gesso to use ?- and also what grit is your sand paper blocks - Ive just ordered some unprimed panels from artefex ( I normally order primed but thought id try prepping myself ) I just want to make sure I get this process correct as the projects are commissions - also do you recommend oil primed or acrylic and any particular brand - thanks so much ( I cannot sand with the lead oil primed )
thank you! currently i'm using Golden Sandable Hard Gesso, but I've used Liquitex Gesso and Gamblin Oil Ground also and like those as well. I think this is all subjective preference and any gesso will work great as long as it's applied correctly (several thin layers, with sanding in between if you want a pretty smooth surface). for sanding blocks, I think anything considered "fine" (I think ~180 grit) works best. gesso isn't very rough at all so anything more coarse will probably take off more gesso than you need.
I frame the panels and use the hanging hardware on the frames. the panels are so thin they don't look great without framing anyway if they are going to be displayed.
theoretically yes, although I've never done it. I would imagine acrylic would be a little easier to deal with, but my concern with oils would be that even with sanding, the surface would be way too slick to get any kind of paint adhesion. that might pose problems once the paint is dry, but without any texture, paint would be very hard to lay down with any sort of precision. that all said, you wouldn't necessarily have to use gesso, but I would definitely prepare the surface with something so the paint has something to grab.
Hi there, very interesting but I have a big question: what happen if someone intentionally damage the surface? How do you restore it? With canvas we already know that there are many solutions, but what will happen in this case? Thanks!
good question. it depends on the damage really. because of the aluminum, it's significantly more durable than a canvas or wood, but it can certainly be dented if hit hard enough. a ding or something shallow could easily be hidden with additional gesso/paint, but I'm not sure a very deep dent could be repaired. otherwise, scratches and small dings should be no problem.
sure! just prep the surface the same way you would if you were working on wood. acm is very smooth, so you just want the surface to be as textured as you need it.
thanks for this video Aaron! I have been starting to use dibond for larger works and I was curious how you go about mounting it for the wall? I'm looking for a frameless option and I've started testing adhesives so I can mount a hang wire to the pieces. Curious if you've gone down this rabbit hole? It seems a lot of people have different methods.
Hi there! I haven't done any attaching of a framing wire to the dibond directly, but I have framed dibond with floaters so adhesive is still doing the work there (but at more points than just two). i've found epoxies that don't need a porous surface work well. might be a little weary of hanging a large piece of dibond with just a hanging wire but let me know how it goes!
@@AaronNagel1 my plan is to add some aluminum to the back that would give it some slight structure with drilled holes then attach the wire from there. I’ll let you know how it came out if you like. Thanks for sharing your experience!
the idea there is just to get off any residual coatings from the manufacture and make sure the surface is fully clean of oils and dust before the surface is prepped. I think it also helps eliminates static, which can be common after removing the protective plastic. that all said, I don't think using water (as long as it's clean and dry after) will cause any problems really, just better to be safe if you can.
Hey Aaron, great video! I was thinking about going fully to wood panels, thin plywood or hardboard (masonite), cradled in thick (13ply) plywood. I wonder how would you go about framing or if it's possible, to cradle ACM panels, just as you would go about cradling wooden panels? Have you had any experience with this? I really like the minimalist aesthetic of cradled wooden panels, and it's done solely by gluing wood on wood (plywood on plywood or plywood on hardboard) ... not sure how it would go if you try and glue plywood on ACM?
thank you Goran. I typically work on my panels uncradled and just frame them when they are done. the frame itself acts as a cradle and to add depth (since the panels are so thin). I've never cradled ACM, but you definitely can use epoxys to attach wood to them. they aren't porous so you just have to use an adhesive that can still bond.
Been on google and didn't get as much information as here. Thank you so much. I've been thinking about it for a while but was not sure if that could work. Does it work also for acrylics painting? Is CBOND similar as dibond?
glad it was helpful! acrylics should work fine, I would still prepare the panel with something to make sure the acrylic will stick, otherwise you'd just be able to pull it off in thick places (as the surface is very smooth). I don't know about CBOND, haven't heard of it but there are lots of similar products out there.
hello @Aaron Nagel. Thanks a lot for your video. I'm planning to pour paint on free shapes of dibond, but I'm in doubt in which way I can protect the edges to not get full of paint all around. I already used tape but this is not quite handy in view of the special edges. Maybe you have a good suggestion on the basis of your experience? Thanks a lot in advance Aaron, Phil
@@AaronNagel1 thanks! i get it.. in this case i have dibond shapes with curved contours/edges, so in the case of very fluid applications the paint is passing the edges a lot and it is a mess to wipe it all of immediately / or scrape in the case of larger pieces. I was thinking of applying a kind of masking liquid or silicone like protection that hardens and that can be peeled off afterwards, but i don't know yet quite what. Thanks for your kindness, have a nice WE phil
@@philcoucke5459 I see! my edges never really show in a frame, even when floated (although I kind of like the rough look). you could always just go the old method of waiting until the paint is done and then painting the edges black/white to cover whatever may have dripped. good luck!
@@jeffborkowski yep! some acm is thicker than others so if you're painting big, get the thickest (plastic specifically) you can find. I've painted a 48" x 62" on e-panel, which is a chinese made but 3A licensed acm product, with no problems at all.
theoretically if it was very think you could get under it with a razor blade and peel it off, but otherwise I haven't had any issues at all with it. oil ground or hard surface gesso also work great and feel a little more permanent (but again, never had any issues with acrylic in 10yrs)
hey phil. I have indeed. I've painted a ton on 2mm. it's no different to paint on thinner panels and easier to cut, but at larger sizes the thinner the panel the more flex there will be. one of the reasons I like dibond as compared to canvas is that the surface doesn't bounce at all, so I like larger ones to be as thick as possible so they are super rigid. hope that helps!
you definitely don't have to seal the edges. the plastic is also non-porous so it's not going to suck up paint. gesso on these panels is to build a surface to paint on, not so much to seal the surface like a canvas or a wood (porous material) needs.
I haven't but I imagine it's pretty tricky. untreated the surface is just super super slick, so there isn't anything for the paint to grab. it would be like painting on glass.
you probably need to frame them in order to hang a larger panel. probably a mounting rail could be added with an epoxy/adhesive but I haven't tried it.
You are correct that it's 3A and not 3M although i'm pretty sure the companies are related? I've heard it referred to Aluminum Composite Material, Aluminum Compound Material, Acrylic Composite Material, etc. not sure which one is really correct now that there are other companies making it without the original license from 3A, but luckily the acronym still works either way.
I got mine locally. because the sheets are big I always just go to whatever industrial plastics supplier might be in the area so I don't have to have it shipped.
I don't see why not. depends how the photo is attached to the dibond (printed directly v. paper that's been glued). I would maybe add some workable fixative or something that will help the acrylic stick. generally acrylic goes on anything but if it's a super smooth surface, you can peel it off.
Hi, I've read you've worked on 48" Dibond panels, but aren't they quite heavy? A 3mm sheet weighs about 18lbs per square metre, which is about 4 times a 1x1 metre canvas. A 4mm sheet will weight about 25lbs per square metre... Aren't potential clients put off by having to hang such heavy thing? That's the only reason why I can't decide whether to try this material or not.
hi vade. it depends on the type of acm and the thickness of the acrylic and metal. standard dibond (branded as such) is not overly heavy -- even at the thicker 3mm. I doubt it's any heavier than a cradled wood panel at the same size given how much wood framing is required for large panels. in my experience, the frames for a painting this size far outweigh the weight of the panel, even with wood/dibond, so it's never been an issue for me with collectors. it's possible to use thinner/lighter acm for larger pieces if it's a concern. after all, you can't really go bigger than 48"x72" with acm that I know of, without using multiple panels.
@@AaronNagel1 I've just bought some 4x8 feet, 4mm Alucobond panels (a product similar to Dibond), and they actually weight 24lbs per panel, much less than I'd read. So, a 40"x40" (1x1 meter) piece will only weight about 8lbs, not too heavy at all.
@@vaderetro264 oh that's great! let me know how you like it! there are definitely variations of ACM that change the weight. i'm using 4mm E-Panel now, which is probably the heaviest i've used as it has thicker plastic and thinner aluminum. It is very rigid though even at large sizes and is easier to cut which I like.
are you using oil paint? (that's huge!) Dibond and most ACM have a laquered surface which is very very smooth. I wouldn't personally paint directly onto it with oils or acrylics as the paint would just slide around -- there wouldn't be enough tooth for the paint to attach to. so i'd recommend prepping the panel is some way -- there are probably other options aside from gesso, maybe a sprayable workable fixative. definitely test on a small piece though before you move onto such a big scale. Aside from other brands of ACM, they all vary in subtle ways but generally they all work just as well to paint on. usually the variables are the thickness of the acrylic and/or aluminum, which effect how rigid the panels are, and how easy they are to cut.
@@AaronNagel1 I use exterior latex house paint. I am thinking i would lightly sand surface and then roll on a latex primer. I am torn between this ACM called COMPBOND which is not as good as dicor, more flimsy(but more affordable) or going with the old school MDO plywood. I think the Compbond ACM will be lighter to manuever and more durable for long lasting weather outdoors. having such a hard time deciding and i need to get to work! oy!
Hmm, think I'll give this a try. I typically build birch wood panels but this would save time and increase rigidity on larger pieces. Can cut without power tools too. Thanks for sharing!
Great explanation. I am researching beyond canvas or wood birch panels now. I have needed quite a dynamic surface for a few art techniques from painting to airbrush as well as digital imaging and varied printing also. I did graphic design for years but I started by drawing and painting when I was younger. So now retired to do my own original art. So this DiBond simplifies for many of my art methods in one material. This is fantastic, with even more advantages I am hearing. Thank's Aaron for your perspective...you have provided. I just printed a complex wood panel which looks great but with blemishes due to inconsistency between panels 1/8th off and a raw face ads to my issues a bit. Canvas and wood gessoed still is too much work. So DiBond changes all this BIGTiME Thanks for this video its changing how I work😊.
so good to hear! thank you!
Thanks Aaron. I had no idea about DiBond until now. It makes great sense. No more stretching canvas, or building wood panels. It looks really easy. Ordering some tomorrow. Cheers.
Great thanks my art teacher gave a small piece for an assignment . Your video was so helpful and she left us up to our own devices to figure out what to do with you . Happy Painting
great to hear!
Thanks for your response! Again, it’s a great video! I can’t wait for more:)
Thank you for the clear and concise information. Very much appreciated.
This was great, thank you. I use composite panel too. I love the surface it gives.
Glad to find a proof for this idea from a professional painter, thanks for sharing didnt consider to cover with gesso, but looks like I should.
Now that is something I have never considered, I'll have to try that foe my next large painting. Thank You
Great video. Well done and informative. Looking forward to more
I've been trying to find this material, so thank you for clearing up what DiBond actually is.
Same here!!!!
I thoroughly enjoyed your video. It was both enjoyable and informative. I look forward to seeing more of your tutorials.
thank you!
Love it! Super informative and good production quality-can’t wait for more.
thanks! much appreciated.
Thanks for your help! Keep em coming :)
Thank you, I've been using DiBond for signs and painting on wood panel but you just gave me the green light to use DiBond for oils
Aaron thank you for thing consice lecture 💯😃👍 Awesone
How very interesting. Your instructions were detailed and easy.
Your artwork ( visible in the background ) is beautiful!!
thank you!
Excellent and instructive video. Thanks for posting
Great job, enjoyed your through explanation and demonstration.
I LOVE dibond! A local sign shop cuts mine down with a cnc router. Best surface for painting.
This is a very good idea, thanks for sharing.
Also, diggin’ the music you used!
Thank you this is great. I wish you did more videos.
Thanks Aaron. Great video on how etc. to use ACM. Clear, covered everything I needed to know. As well as using new panels I’m enjoying the challenge of scavenging acm that has been used for business signage.
excellent to hear!
Where do you scavenge for ACM? Hints?
@@hilarydorricott8454 retail shops having signs replaced, warehouses being demolished pretty much anywhere you see a sign being taken down is an opportunity.
@@hilarydorricott8454 I've always been able to find it at plastics suppliers or anybody that specializes in display materials
I never heard of it and there is an option to buy a reproduction on this surface. I’m glad you made this video because I was wondering why this would be more expensive.
Great very informative. Thank you
oh yes! I love the info!!! thanks so much!
This was excellent! Thank you.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE INFO ON DIBOND. I'M ALSO LOOKING FORWARD TO YOUR CHANEL IN THE FUTURE! SEE YOU THEN.
Awesome clear video Aaron
thank you!
I just started painting again and Im so happy I stumbled upon your video! Thank you so much for the info! Will definitely try painting on a dibond! Btw your portraits are sooooo amazing..
thank you! and good luck!
Very informative video. I have been looking for something durable to use for my paintings. Looks to be just what I need will give this a try. Thank you for sharing.
Nicely done video. Very informative. A couple minor corrections however. ACM, in this case, is an acronym for Aluminum Composite Material not Acrylic Composite Material. Dibond is made by 3A Composites not 3M.
thanks william. have noted those corrections in past comments -- need to add to the description. appreciate it!
Great video. Super helpful
Soo helpful! 🙏
excellent!
Love this! Ever since I saw how they make signs I've been wondering where to get this material. Thinking about getting a gold or silver colored sheet and painting over it, letting the background shine through.
Very informative
If you have a table saw it can be used to cut this also. Just be aware that if you have a sawstop table saw to make sure you put it in bypass mode to do this
Very helpful video
Beautiful work! Subscribed 👌
Thank you!
Great video!! XVX 😁
super video... thank you....
Got some Dibond today, A friend recommended ur channel. Thx Mate for you're advice how to prepare it Mate. Love ur portraits also and will check ur channel out on the weekend. Cheer's from Sydney 🔔🎨👍
thank you! good luck with that dibond.
@@AaronNagel1 Thx Mate, Happy painting this weekend 🎨👍
@@PleinAirAdventureswithTezDower you too!
@@AaronNagel1 Thx Aaron🎨👍
Great video
Great Video, love your work
thank you!
👍Hi, I've had a a go with genetic ACM, but I use the uncoated side. Sand the bare metal, works fine. And there's zero chance of chemical residue from a coating (which the other side may have... But I suppose the gesso fixes that). Cheers, Steve
ACM = Aluminium Composite Material. Good vid.
Correct me if I am wrong, but is my understanding that aluminum does not rust but it can corrode over time. Seen it on many street signs. Of course all materials will degrade, but am wondering how long before corrosion sets in with aluminum. Longer than linen? Am consider Dibond for future oil painting but would be nice to know if any issues with corrosion as may be exposed to linseed oil. And if I apply a barrier, what keeps that barrier from causing corrosion?
RE: Strength, they use aluminum/paper honeycomb composite for airplane and boat flooring. Hell, most newish boats are fiberglass/foam composite.
Thanks
But are you sure the gesso and the acrylic paint won't separate from the aluminum (a metal) over time? Thanks.
Great video..!! I am now planning to move from canvas to ACP panel. But for large size ( 4*4 ft) the panel bends. Kindly advise how to frame it or how to support it.
Also how should we move the framed painting inter-city safely.
Thanks in advance.
it is possible to find ACM that doesn't bend at large sizes (there are variations with thicker acrylic that don't flex as much). but I always frame my paintings in picture frames, which look good on a wall (since ACM panels are too thin to hang without) and also serve to brace the panels in the event there is some flex at larger sizes. when I have worked on panels that are big enough to flex, it's not nearly enough for it to be a hindrance when I'm actually working, and I know I can fix it with a good picture frame later. I imagine you could easily glue the panel to an aluminum or wood frame (as you would with a wood panel) if you wanted it supported while you worked on it or if you weren't planning on an actual picture frame. hope that helps!
Old (flat) license plates are a good source of metal--if they are flat. In Indiana they just paint, not stamp.
Hi Aaron,
thx for the informative Video. Is there a benefit on using the side with the Plastic coating compared to using the Aluminium side?
Best regards
Gary
hi Gary. acm panels can either have bare aluminum or lacquered aluminum on both sides. some are one side of each, most DiBond or e-panel are both lacquered. but to answer your question, it depends on how you're prepping the surface. if you're doing many layers of acrylic gesso, it probably doesn't make any difference at all. my experience is the laquered side(s) are slightly more resistant to dings and dents and scratches, so make a better surface -- but only by a little. always good to do a little test of whatever you are prepping your surface with, to make sure it adheres well.
@@AaronNagel1 thank you very much. I've ordered some and I will try my luck.
Best regards
Gary
Great vid. Just curious why you prefer dibond to aluminum panels. Is it just price or is it superior in other ways to aluminum?
thank you! aluminum often is a lot thinner (unless it is glued to a core or framed) which make it more bendy at larger sizes. I do think ACM is a little cheaper, but honestly otherwise, once you gesso it a bunch, painting on it is mostly the same. I've used ACM without lacquer, in which case you are still painting on aluminum.
Awesome!!! Got so many questions answered.
Where can I buy diabond
Thank you. I think in the future I will work mostly this way. Do you have experience with large formats? Regards.
I've worked pretty large, 48" square. I think finding panels over 4'x8' might be hard but otherwise it's great.
@@AaronNagel1 Thank you I will try
Does pencil n charcoal work gewd on there?
Great video. Thanks! What brand of gesso do you use or recommend?
thank you! I use the Liquitex professional acrylic gesso.
Dibond great, but then you put acrylic gesso doesn't that seems like a a step backwards?
This was a fantastic video and exactly what I was looking for. I'm about to embark on a huge mural on composite panel. I'm thinking of using a few laters of smart prime before painting with low sheen acrylics. It's going to go outside on a north facing wall. Any tips?
thank you! so glad it helped. I don't really have any experience painting outdoor surfaces -- the dibond will certainly hold up but not sure about actual paints our outdoor rated primers. good luck with your project!
Can u use it for pencil,charcoal art?
HI Aaron, quick question, I have been using diabond for a while, when I use acrylic gesso, i did a scratch test, it came of easy, am I doing something wrong, maybe not enough layers, or sanding, thanks for your video its priceless for me, also do you use oil primer.
you may be applying the acrylic gesso too thickly. I keep the first 2-3 layers pretty thin and only have issues if I let too much gesso build up on the sides of the panel. I've been using sandable hard surface gesso lately which seems to stick much better and requires fewer layers. oil ground also works great.
How do you finish the edges which show the layers of composite material? I can see the plastic in between the outer layers. Do I fill it in with gesso?
you can certainly paint the edges with gesso, just like any other flat panel. of course, if you plan to frame it, the edges will be covered anyway. personally I leave the edge exposed -- doesn't bother me at all.
recycling ♻️ old signs makes even more sense ...
I do.
great idea!
Hi Aaron, I’ve been using Winsor Newton oil primer on ACM which has been excellent but I am thinking about trying Golden Sandable Hard gesso which I see in the comments you have been using recently. Two questions Have you noticed if it absorbs the oil out of the oil paint too much leaving matte spots and do you water it down at all for the first coat?
hey there/ I have been using sandable hard gesso for the last few paintings. I definitely haven't noticed any matte spots. as a painting surface, it doesn't feel that much different than regular acrylic gesso. it's perhaps a little less smooth, and a little more absorbent (like an oil ground), and doesn't have the plastic feel of reg acrylic. I don't water down at all, and usually 3-4 coats does it with some light sanding in between most layers. hope that helps!
@@AaronNagel1 Thanks very much. It sounds like it might suit me. I do like Winsor but it’s sometimes hard to get, and it is pretty strong smelling so I think I will give Golden a try. I’ve been to your website too, really beautiful paintings. Thanks again.
Thank you!!! I tend to work, for smaller paintings, on waterproof MDF wood panels cut to size. However I now would like to paint something measuring 80cm by 54cm and was thinking dibon could be a good alternative. I am always afraid that after a certain size, warping can be an issue, and something cradled would be safer.
there is some flex in some variations of acm panels at larger sizes, I would definitely not be very concerned with something 80cm x 54cm though. even if the panels do flex a bit at larger sizes, they can easily be tamed by framing them (which you likely have to do anyway). there are variations with thicker acrylic and thinner aluminum that are a lot more rigid -- check out e-panels. i've painted as big as 54in x 66in on e-panel with no issues.
@@AaronNagel1 Thank you for your help and answer I appreciate it. I haven't heard of e-panels so I will definitely have a look. I live in the UK and many websites which sell sheets of plastic are so confusing as the choices are endless :) Thank you again
@@maudale it can be confusing! especially since acm is relatively new and brand names get in the mix. e-panel is a chinese made version with the license from 3A. the ones i've used tend to have thicker acrylic and thinner aluminum, which make them more rigid, cheaper, and easier to cut. good luck!
Can acrylic paint or alcohol inks be used on the surface without adding gesso?
Thank you for your very informative video. I had never heard of using this before! ❤
the gesso I use is acrylic, so acrylics work fine. the surface is very smooth though, so one thick layer would be pretty easy to just pull off. a bunch of thin layers of gesso helps to provide more tooth. but you could probably use a workable fixative or size to make sure things stay in place. do some experimenting though! I've never used alcohol inks, so can't help you there.
@@AaronNagel1 Thank you kindly!
I live in Thailand and it gets pretty hot and humid here. I was wondering if DiBond would warp from the heat on my customers?
to my knowledge it will not! it's non-porous and made for outdoor applications. definitely check with your supplier first though!
Can you talk more about color? Your palette & colors you use, especially
skin tones.
Aaron, thanks for this great video! ACM definitely offers some interesting benefits.
I'm wondering what the white coating is that's already in place on the panel you used? I don't mean your layers of gesso, but the white layer that already exists before you do that.
Also, is there any way to hang these without framing them? Thanks so much!
acm panels can come lacquered depending on the brand. so you're not painting directly on metal, but a lacquered metal. honestly, since we are applying gesso, it probably doesn't make that much difference but it's more common. and yes, you can certainly add framing hardware to the back of these panels with epoxy. not sure I would trust it for very big panels but smaller ones would be fine. (I usually float my panels when they are framed so they are actually glued to wood supports within a frame).
Thank you!@@AaronNagel1
Pollock was a great proponent of dibond.
Cool idea, thanks for the info! I decided to try it and bought a Dibond panel. Unfortunately, the gesso layers started un-gluing from the edges. I think it's because they are too sharp, even when sanded, or maybe I did not sand them enough. But it feels like the edge "cuts" the layer of the gesso and the gesso acts as a homogenous material, like a sort of an elastic sticker, that can be easily pulled away from the surface. I guess it's either because I mixed it with Gac-100 (to make the gesso less absorbent) which made the gesso more elastic, or because the Dibond itself has no pores for the gesso to really grab to. Something to note is I used the matte side of the Dibond and also sanded it, but this happens despite all that. Do you happen to have any tips for that? Maybe I am missing something?
Also, a good thing to note, for future me at least, is to sand edges perpendicular to their direction. Otherwise, the sanding paper gets cut by the sharp Dibond edges.
i've noticed if you let the gesso built up on the edges, you can get a flexible chunk of gesso that can totally make it easier to pull the gesso away from the panel. the solutions to this are definitely sand the edges (perpendicular) so they aren't as sharp and more round, and don't let the gesso build up on the sides of the panel (so for every layer of gesso, just wipe the edges before it dries). or you can trim the gesso on the sides with a blade so there isn't any gesso that isn't on just the front surface. that solves the issue for me. you can also use an oil painting ground (I use Rublev's Lead Alkyd Ground) that only takes x2 coats.
hope that helps!
@@AaronNagel1 totally, thanks for the info again!
@@MrIbuprofen you're welcome!
Thank so much - great video - I am a huge fan of your artwork - could you recommend the best type of Gesso to use ?- and also what grit is your sand paper blocks - Ive just ordered some unprimed panels from artefex ( I normally order primed but thought id try prepping myself ) I just want to make sure I get this process correct as the projects are commissions - also do you recommend oil primed or acrylic and any particular brand - thanks so much ( I cannot sand with the lead oil primed )
thank you! currently i'm using Golden Sandable Hard Gesso, but I've used Liquitex Gesso and Gamblin Oil Ground also and like those as well. I think this is all subjective preference and any gesso will work great as long as it's applied correctly (several thin layers, with sanding in between if you want a pretty smooth surface). for sanding blocks, I think anything considered "fine" (I think ~180 grit) works best. gesso isn't very rough at all so anything more coarse will probably take off more gesso than you need.
How do you attach hanging hardware to the panels when finished?
I frame the panels and use the hanging hardware on the frames. the panels are so thin they don't look great without framing anyway if they are going to be displayed.
Can you sand the white surface and then paint straight onto the dibond surface, ie, no gesso.
theoretically yes, although I've never done it. I would imagine acrylic would be a little easier to deal with, but my concern with oils would be that even with sanding, the surface would be way too slick to get any kind of paint adhesion. that might pose problems once the paint is dry, but without any texture, paint would be very hard to lay down with any sort of precision. that all said, you wouldn't necessarily have to use gesso, but I would definitely prepare the surface with something so the paint has something to grab.
Hi there, very interesting but I have a big question: what happen if someone intentionally damage the surface? How do you restore it? With canvas we already know that there are many solutions, but what will happen in this case? Thanks!
good question. it depends on the damage really. because of the aluminum, it's significantly more durable than a canvas or wood, but it can certainly be dented if hit hard enough. a ding or something shallow could easily be hidden with additional gesso/paint, but I'm not sure a very deep dent could be repaired. otherwise, scratches and small dings should be no problem.
ACM--Aluminum Composite Material--Not Acrylic composite material
Could I use these panels for mixed media? Paper collage/ Mache layering? I usually work with inks, tissue paper, and acrylics.
sure! just prep the surface the same way you would if you were working on wood. acm is very smooth, so you just want the surface to be as textured as you need it.
@@AaronNagel1 thanks 🙏
thanks for this video Aaron! I have been starting to use dibond for larger works and I was curious how you go about mounting it for the wall? I'm looking for a frameless option and I've started testing adhesives so I can mount a hang wire to the pieces. Curious if you've gone down this rabbit hole? It seems a lot of people have different methods.
Hi there! I haven't done any attaching of a framing wire to the dibond directly, but I have framed dibond with floaters so adhesive is still doing the work there (but at more points than just two). i've found epoxies that don't need a porous surface work well. might be a little weary of hanging a large piece of dibond with just a hanging wire but let me know how it goes!
@@AaronNagel1 my plan is to add some aluminum to the back that would give it some slight structure with drilled holes then attach the wire from there. I’ll let you know how it came out if you like. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Thank you for sharing your experience. Just wondering why alcohol is used to clean after sanding. Would water work?
the idea there is just to get off any residual coatings from the manufacture and make sure the surface is fully clean of oils and dust before the surface is prepped. I think it also helps eliminates static, which can be common after removing the protective plastic. that all said, I don't think using water (as long as it's clean and dry after) will cause any problems really, just better to be safe if you can.
@@AaronNagel1 great, thank you for your reply and feedback.
Can you paint on Dibond panels with oil paint
yes, all of my paintings are oils.
Hey Aaron, great video! I was thinking about going fully to wood panels, thin plywood or hardboard (masonite), cradled in thick (13ply) plywood. I wonder how would you go about framing or if it's possible, to cradle ACM panels, just as you would go about cradling wooden panels? Have you had any experience with this? I really like the minimalist aesthetic of cradled wooden panels, and it's done solely by gluing wood on wood (plywood on plywood or plywood on hardboard) ... not sure how it would go if you try and glue plywood on ACM?
thank you Goran. I typically work on my panels uncradled and just frame them when they are done. the frame itself acts as a cradle and to add depth (since the panels are so thin). I've never cradled ACM, but you definitely can use epoxys to attach wood to them. they aren't porous so you just have to use an adhesive that can still bond.
@@AaronNagel1 Thanks for the tips and info!
What size would you recommend to paint on if you turn it into prints?
Been on google and didn't get as much information as here. Thank you so much. I've been thinking about it for a while but was not sure if that could work. Does it work also for acrylics painting? Is CBOND similar as dibond?
glad it was helpful! acrylics should work fine, I would still prepare the panel with something to make sure the acrylic will stick, otherwise you'd just be able to pull it off in thick places (as the surface is very smooth). I don't know about CBOND, haven't heard of it but there are lots of similar products out there.
hello @Aaron Nagel. Thanks a lot for your video. I'm planning to pour paint on free shapes of dibond, but I'm in doubt in which way I can protect the edges to not get full of paint all around. I already used tape but this is not quite handy in view of the special edges. Maybe you have a good suggestion on the basis of your experience? Thanks a lot in advance Aaron, Phil
I usually just scrape any excess paint off before it dries. that would be a good option if masking doesn't work.
@@AaronNagel1 thanks! i get it.. in this case i have dibond shapes with curved contours/edges, so in the case of very fluid applications the paint is passing the edges a lot and it is a mess to wipe it all of immediately / or scrape in the case of larger pieces. I was thinking of applying a kind of masking liquid or silicone like protection that hardens and that can be peeled off afterwards, but i don't know yet quite what. Thanks for your kindness, have a nice WE phil
@@philcoucke5459 I see! my edges never really show in a frame, even when floated (although I kind of like the rough look). you could always just go the old method of waiting until the paint is done and then painting the edges black/white to cover whatever may have dripped. good luck!
But I love the look of canvas material.
Help! I dont know where to order online. There is none in our local town.
You know me.
Do you glue mount the panels on some kind of wood cradle?
nope, they are rigid enough to paint on unframed. for display, I frame them in normal frames.
@@AaronNagel1 awesome. even at large-ish scale 30"x40"?
@@jeffborkowski yep! some acm is thicker than others so if you're painting big, get the thickest (plastic specifically) you can find. I've painted a 48" x 62" on e-panel, which is a chinese made but 3A licensed acm product, with no problems at all.
Does the acrylic gesso stratch off easily?
theoretically if it was very think you could get under it with a razor blade and peel it off, but otherwise I haven't had any issues at all with it. oil ground or hard surface gesso also work great and feel a little more permanent (but again, never had any issues with acrylic in 10yrs)
@@AaronNagel1 thank you so much for your reply really appreciate it
Nicely explained Aaron, thanks! Do you ever use thinner Dibond e.g. 3mm? BTW, I had a work colleague called Di Bond 😂
hey phil. I have indeed. I've painted a ton on 2mm. it's no different to paint on thinner panels and easier to cut, but at larger sizes the thinner the panel the more flex there will be. one of the reasons I like dibond as compared to canvas is that the surface doesn't bounce at all, so I like larger ones to be as thick as possible so they are super rigid. hope that helps!
@@AaronNagel1 Isn't it too heavy to be used for 'larger' paintings?
do you have to seal the edges or is it okay when oilpaint gets in touch with the polymere filler which holds both plates together?
you definitely don't have to seal the edges. the plastic is also non-porous so it's not going to suck up paint. gesso on these panels is to build a surface to paint on, not so much to seal the surface like a canvas or a wood (porous material) needs.
Hi Aaron, have you tried oilpainting on the dibond panels without the layers of gesso? Does it work?
I haven't but I imagine it's pretty tricky. untreated the surface is just super super slick, so there isn't anything for the paint to grab. it would be like painting on glass.
How do you recommend hanging larger pieces of this without a frame?
you probably need to frame them in order to hang a larger panel. probably a mounting rail could be added with an epoxy/adhesive but I haven't tried it.
Pretty sure it's actually called Aluminum Compound Material, and the company that developed it is named 3A, not 3M.
You are correct that it's 3A and not 3M although i'm pretty sure the companies are related? I've heard it referred to Aluminum Composite Material, Aluminum Compound Material, Acrylic Composite Material, etc. not sure which one is really correct now that there are other companies making it without the original license from 3A, but luckily the acronym still works either way.
Why do you use alcohol to clean it after sanding? Is there some way it works better than water or a dry rag?
I didn’t catch what company you order it from…
I got mine locally. because the sheets are big I always just go to whatever industrial plastics supplier might be in the area so I don't have to have it shipped.
Hi, do you think it’s possible to paint with acrylic paint on a dibond photo print? So directly on it.
I don't see why not. depends how the photo is attached to the dibond (printed directly v. paper that's been glued). I would maybe add some workable fixative or something that will help the acrylic stick. generally acrylic goes on anything but if it's a super smooth surface, you can peel it off.
Hi, I've read you've worked on 48" Dibond panels, but aren't they quite heavy? A 3mm sheet weighs about 18lbs per square metre, which is about 4 times a 1x1 metre canvas. A 4mm sheet will weight about 25lbs per square metre... Aren't potential clients put off by having to hang such heavy thing? That's the only reason why I can't decide whether to try this material or not.
hi vade. it depends on the type of acm and the thickness of the acrylic and metal. standard dibond (branded as such) is not overly heavy -- even at the thicker 3mm. I doubt it's any heavier than a cradled wood panel at the same size given how much wood framing is required for large panels. in my experience, the frames for a painting this size far outweigh the weight of the panel, even with wood/dibond, so it's never been an issue for me with collectors. it's possible to use thinner/lighter acm for larger pieces if it's a concern. after all, you can't really go bigger than 48"x72" with acm that I know of, without using multiple panels.
@@AaronNagel1 Thank you for the quick and very kind answer.
@@AaronNagel1 I've just bought some 4x8 feet, 4mm Alucobond panels (a product similar to Dibond), and they actually weight 24lbs per panel, much less than I'd read. So, a 40"x40" (1x1 meter) piece will only weight about 8lbs, not too heavy at all.
@@vaderetro264 oh that's great! let me know how you like it! there are definitely variations of ACM that change the weight. i'm using 4mm E-Panel now, which is probably the heaviest i've used as it has thicker plastic and thinner aluminum. It is very rigid though even at large sizes and is easier to cut which I like.
im thinking of using ACM for a 60 ft mural. Is it ok, to not use Gesso? Also, do other types of ACM work as well as Dibond? thx
are you using oil paint? (that's huge!) Dibond and most ACM have a laquered surface which is very very smooth. I wouldn't personally paint directly onto it with oils or acrylics as the paint would just slide around -- there wouldn't be enough tooth for the paint to attach to. so i'd recommend prepping the panel is some way -- there are probably other options aside from gesso, maybe a sprayable workable fixative. definitely test on a small piece though before you move onto such a big scale. Aside from other brands of ACM, they all vary in subtle ways but generally they all work just as well to paint on. usually the variables are the thickness of the acrylic and/or aluminum, which effect how rigid the panels are, and how easy they are to cut.
@@AaronNagel1 I use exterior latex house paint. I am thinking i would lightly sand surface and then roll on a latex primer. I am torn between this ACM called COMPBOND which is not as good as dicor, more flimsy(but more affordable) or going with the old school MDO plywood. I think the Compbond ACM will be lighter to manuever and more durable for long lasting weather outdoors. having such a hard time deciding and i need to get to work! oy!