I watched this tonight and it's late. What an unexpected surprise to hear laughter! Good God, it was coming from me! I was laughing so hard that I had tears. I still don't know how to prepare a hardboard painting surface because I am afraid my laughter will wake my husband in the next room. These few minutes are priceless. Music, laughter & art, the universal languages. You got 2 out of 3 here. Thank you both so much.
Great video as usual and I love the bloopers :-) It sounds like you and your wife have lots of fun making them, so it makes it a more fun way to learn. Thank you to both of you. x
Katie Johnson Very late reply, Katie. Sorry. Glad you enjoyed the video and found it useful. Also glad I could give you a good laugh with my bloopers :-) LOL
Just the trick! I just got a load of cut hardboard pieces delivered cos I love the look of oil on hardboard, and wasn't sure how to prep them, so I'm really grateful for your info. Thank you.
Thank you for taking the time to spread the love of art and inspire creativity with these real world tutorials. Your paintings are sick dude. You rock!
Ivon, sanding without a powered tool, (lower than 600 rpms) will not produce particulate small enough to be a problem. Furthermore, MDF is not formulated with the same process that it was in the 60's. The boards are more ph stabile and do not tarnish the ground of paintings nearly as badly as they once did, I also think your assumption is based on a myth surrounding hardboard, not MDF or Masonite, which did in fact contain some nasty stuff before the 70's. As long as you are outside or wearing an N-95 mask, sanding with an orbital will be fine, for any type of wood product.
@@jeffmiracolaartist, I still use Bruce Lee's philosophy. Something he taught his students was to "honestly express yourself", using a system of liabilities and assets. He didn't invent the technique, but he taught it.
I was looking for info on how to prepare wood panels, found you, loved the video, was just going to thumb-up you and go my merry way, but then your bloopers came on and got me giggling, so I subscribed. lol
Do you frame these 1/8" panels? Ugggh, I like larger size, 30x40.....I should cradle it....but I am thinking of using a router to make a groove into wood frame then panel should slide into frame! I am thinking of using 1/4" thick panels from Home Depot and making them somewhat smaller, but I imagine they are crazy heavy! Not sure what to do! I would love your opinion on this! Thank you!
I hear you, no short cuts! Thank you for sharing. Thanks to you my pictures look a litle bit better now. Youre a great teacher. (You 2 seem like a good team ;D)
That "magical" surface is the slurry of wet glue and wood fibers which have been "hot pressed" on one or both sides. It's a magical process, that leads to your magical results. It's also highly automated. Kinda like an orbital sander is... which can make that sanding job last only ten seconds. Really. Only ten seconds. Yup. And while we are talking ten seconds, let's talk foam weeny roller for applying gesso, in this case, 30 seconds... SO- your fifteen minute video, that actually took maybe two hours to make, would take me 30-40 minutes, because, blowdryer. Dude, your outtakes were hilarious! Thanks! Tune in next time, when I talk about PVA Primer, that cost less than a tenth the price of gesso, and comes in a five gallon buckets, can be tinted, and is sold in paint stores!
@@jeffmiracolaartist I have been doing this for a LONG time, and I see a lot of videos that have only one perspective, and I know it all comes back to a matter of time for the research vs how busy they are... and exposure to materials that most artist will never cross paths with, who has time for experimentations? I have had the luck to have had a job that gave me insights into materials. I hope this helps! I have thought a lot about doing a video for technical depth about materials and process in preparation... if I could just find the time...
So . This was great . Question ... I did not use gesso but plaster / joint compound. I put that in the rough side ....? It warped ...now ...it’s dried flat??? So I’m good . But do you think it had something to do with putting in rough side ??? Any thoughts ?
Great video. I thing to add, always use dust mask while sanding. Hardwood dust is just irritating, but sanded gesso can damage your lungs (it did mine) and send you to bed for a week.
Masonite (as the first of these materials) simply came into existence from an accident of sawdust being subjected to steam and pressure. That 'coating' is in fact simply the shiny side from the the material being pressed down onto a smooth base as it is heated and pressured. It's a remarkable material given it's humble origins.
Thanks for your reply ,I usually use MDF which I sand because of its smooth surface and then treat with a substance called agua fond ,by the way I'm in Italy so I don't know exactly what this product contains.It seems to work but as I said some colours esp. yellow don't assorb and when you go over them come away, even if they're dry they won't take other paint.Maybe its something in that particular colour?
Thanks for the info ! What about the backside? I've heard that you need to seal it with, say shellac to create a moisture barrier ?? Does that make sense, or is it not necessary? Have also heard that you should "seal" the front also, before you Gesso and sand ? Is the front sealing not necessary?
Never heard of that. I have never done that in my 25+ years. And I also have never heard of any other artists around me doing that. But hey, maybe my paintings will fall apart in 200 years. But I won't be around to care LOL
Modern hardboard is sawdust and resin/glue under pressure. There are many types and grades. The cheapest is the type with one smooth surface and the back with a rough texture that looks at if window screen was laid on it and mashed in. The better quality is smooth both sides. The original DURON was very stiff and tough and smooth. It cam in 4X8 sheets and in two widths, 1/8 th and 1/4. There were three facilities in he US that made it for 3M. All three are closed. First in Oregon (where I live), next in Michigan and then in Georgia. All gone. For some time there was no substitute . As I will not use the one side textured product, ( I do not compromise) I had to scramble. First I bought the product with one side in a sprayed on white finish and scuffed and repainted that side. Then other companies started making a smooth on both side product, ok but not DURON. As there was no alternative, I stopped using the 1/8th as it crumbles and will separate with your fingernail. I went to 1/4.. better but it or nothing. Did I mention I bought out every lumber yard withing 100 miles of their remaining DURON.? Alas the well went dry. But I still have 8 sheets I save for "special" projects, museum pieces, private collections such as the Alfa Romeo Museum in Australia, the Global President of Ford Motor Co. and friends . There is now a very slight slim to none availability of "artists hardboard" ( as the art supply places call it.. and some at a couple local lumber yards. "Cabinet" ( as in sloppy American version of cabinets not the professional stuff made in Europe.. we don't have but a few real cabinet makers.. the rest are push pull click click get the job get it done get the money hacks) makers used this product for cabinet backs and bottoms and sometimes sliders. But for all you aspirants.. there is a "new" product called " Eucaboard" ... you guessed it, made from eucalyptus trees. Still made with sawdust glue.resin under pressure. There are 2 thicknesses, somewhere near and 1/8th and some where near a 1/4 minus... the thicknesses are actually metric, but who's counting. It is available from a few box stores such as Home Creepo and Blowes) There is a slight texture to the backside, but not as rough or unsightly as the hardboard you usually find. Prices between $15 and $20 a 4x8 sheet.. Good luck. Sanding.. Two points. 1. In this video there is a disgraceful demonstration of whacking a sheet of sandpaper...crude and wasteful and useless. First fold it in half to make two roughly 5 1/2 by 8 1/2 sheets. I'll stop here.. go to youtube and put in the professional way to cut a piece of sandpaper. 2. 100 grit is too rough it will tear the snot out of hardboard. and cut you precious surface. 400 is too fine. Get some 220 and be done with it to prep with gesso or acrylic primer..yes they are different unless you get acrylic gesso. (which is a misnomer) 3. Get a proper palm or small orbital sander..I used Porter Cable ( professional) but there are other makes get one with a rectangular platen(sp) to accept your properly folded and torn/cut sandpaper. Use your 220. You can consider 400 for sanding in between layers of gesso. As to coating both sides of your board. Yes, that is the way professionals would do it. There is another product called MDF... Medium Density Fiberboard. as mentioned.. However look for MEDITE.. thinnest is 1/4 inch.... it is the Mercedes-Benz of MDF.... I would say Cadillac but since the 70s they are complete junk. Yes I was in the car biz for 25 years, then a furniture maker/folk artist for 20 years , then an artist full time for the last 10 yrs, more if you count I was doing this on and off since the mid fifties when I was a little kid. No I do not believe in modest ,, it is a bullspit affectation. I delight in saying I cannot keep up with orders, and I do not advertise nor have a you tube account. Far too busy.
Thanks this is really useful, I want to do some big city works but the large canvases cost a lot. Your work is framed in glass, my work is abstract and will be built up a lot with flexible modelling paste etc. I guess the hardboard will still be ok once treated if it has no glass frame? I aim to mount the works on a floating frame. Best regards, James.
Hi, I love watching all your videos Jeff and esp like the bloopers ;-) How I wish you and youtube had been around 30yrs ago when I first started oil painting. I made every mistake you mention. I did my first painting on the wrong side of hardboard with no primer as I didn't know there was such a thing. It took me forever to try and do the small details lol. Having learnt my lesson on that one, my second painting was at least on the smooth side of the board, but again no gesso, so my oil paints were sinking right in and it felt as if I was painting with Jam! (I was a blonde at the time lol )
Diane Howe Art Aw you're so nice, Diane. Thank you. Hey, I wish I had something like this RUclips channel back when I was younger, too. Would have made it all so much easier.
+Diane Howe Art I agree the bloopers give a sense of humanity, we all make mistakes and to not give up. I had no you tube when I started painting and for him to step up and share his knowledge is what makes him an example of what an artist truly is.
Well…nicely presented but for those who want archival quality panels I’d suggest after light sanding giving the panel 2-3 light coats of GAC100 to prevent SID. But hey, it’s RUclips, folks got all kinds of short cuts going on…
@@fogsmart in my 30 years of painting on substrate such as Masonite, hardboard, gesso board, illustration board, etc., I have not once encountered SID, or Support Induced Discoloration. Multiple coats of gesso has been enough to seal the surface for me. Introducing another product such as GAC100, for the way I work, is unnecessary.
Hi Jeff, I saw the video and applied the gesso also did sanding 3 times. still, I see the rough surface & brush strokes. how to make the board smoother for oil painting?
Without knowing exactly the thickness of the gesso you applied, what brand of gesso you used, or what kind of surface you're working on, it is difficult for me to say. But if the surface is still too rough for you after each coat and sanding, then your only option is to do a very serious sanding of that final surface. And that may require multiple sandpaper grits. Start with a very coarse sandpaper with a grit somewhere around 100-200. Then smooth everything out with a finer grit sandpaper like 800-1000 or even higher.
Haha, I wish I could work with you guys, seems like you are having a good time there :) It actually feels like that method is cheaper than canvas, and also it feels like it gives the painting a sense of higher quality somehow.
Yes, the hardboard is cheaper than canvas. Especially if you buy a huge sheet of it and cut it up into smaller pieces. Painting on hardboard definitely gives a different finished surface than canvas. It is more glossy for sure.
I have a question, i bought Artist Panels from Hobby Lobby, they told me they were Masonite panels, they came with gesso already and i dont like the it takes the paint for an underpainting, could i sand it down to get a nicer smooth surface to paint on? & is it worth buying pre-gesso panels or should i just take my time and do it the way you demonstrated? thanks again for all the videos, looking forward to a new one :)
Kalvin Rosario Pre-gessoed panels are okay. I've used them a few times. But yes, you could sand down the pre-gessoed panels if you feel the texture is too rough. Use a fine grit sandpaper so you don't end up making the board even more rough than it already is.
Andrea Longhi Andrea, I just uploaded a video today about creating an acrylic painting of a goblin. But in that video I show how I prepare my illustration boards :-) So hopefully that will help.ruclips.net/video/lfTCpax2HII/видео.html
I've never done that. Mainly because laminated board is super smooth. There isn't anything for the gesso to "grip" on to. I suppose the only way it might work is if you first sand the laminated board so you create a textured surface that will give the gesso something to cling to. But again, I haven't done this so I can't speak to the how long a painting might last on that kind of surface. The paint could chip off easily over time.
Hello Mr. Miracola, I bought white hardboard and I'm going through the steps of gessoing the board, but I'm afraid it wouldn't come out the same since it's not the brown hardboard.
Glenn, I have never used the white hardboard. I have to assume the white portion is pre-painted onto the board. And I'd imagine it is rather smooth. Using gesso adds a bit of texture or tooth for your acrylic or oil paints to hold on to. That's not to say that the board won't work just the way you have it. But since I haven't used it before, I can't give you a solid answer. The best thing to do is to use a smaller piece of it to do an experimental painting on.
yes, bits would come off into the primer. I would never personally prime the rough side. It would be far too rough of a surface an again, all those little bits of fiber would mix into the primer. Wouldn't be fun to paint on for my purposes.
Alena Freeman never had a problem with that in all my years preparing boards. And I’ve prepared both tempered and untempered boards. Maybe I’ve been lucky :-)
I guess it depends on what kind of primer you are talking about. If you're using standard house paint primer, you will want to consider switching to acrylic gesso. If your method is working for you, stick with it, but you'll want to keep in mind the long term effects. House primers aren't meant to last for more than 10-25 years. But more importantly, gesso has sand or pumice mixed into it which gives oil paints in particular something to adhere to. Without that extra "tooth", the paint has nothing to cling on to and the surface can become unstable, chipping away easily. Acrylic gesso also has flexibility, which is important over time as painting surfaces like canvas can expand or retract with temperature changes. Acrylic gesso is more expensive, but if you're at all concerned about the longevity of your paintings, you'll want to use all the proper materials.
I paint on 1/4" thick MDF, so there is no need to put gesso on the backside. If you are going to paint on 1/8" thick MDF, and the board is 18"x24" or larger, then you may need to put some gesso on the backside. But for smaller boards, I have never put any gesso on the back and never had any warping.
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The bloopers are absolutely hysterical!
I watched this tonight and it's late. What an unexpected surprise to hear laughter! Good God, it was coming from me! I was laughing so hard that I had tears. I still don't know how to prepare a hardboard painting surface because I am afraid my laughter will wake my husband in the next room. These few minutes are priceless. Music, laughter & art, the universal languages. You got 2 out of 3 here. Thank you both so much.
One of the very better.....even best tooooootorials.....clear, thought thru and funny...good job.
Invaluable knowledge and bloopers are the best combo. Thanks!
Will rewatch more of your videos ;)
Great info and bloopers are great too
Great video as usual and I love the bloopers :-) It sounds like you and your wife have lots of fun making them, so it makes it a more fun way to learn. Thank you to both of you. x
Bloopers were the best part, man... for years I've been sanding my boards clockwise, dammit.
😂
I really appreciated the valuable info and I was crying laughing at the unexpected outtakes!
Katie Johnson Very late reply, Katie. Sorry. Glad you enjoyed the video and found it useful. Also glad I could give you a good laugh with my bloopers :-) LOL
the best advises or tips in art are from jeff, thanks so much for taking your time and share your knowledge from the deep of my heart thanks!!
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching.
Just the trick! I just got a load of cut hardboard pieces delivered cos I love the look of oil on hardboard, and wasn't sure how to prep them, so I'm really grateful for your info. Thank you.
+Charleysays moouw Wonderful! Glad it was helpful for you :-)
Useful info even in 2018! Thanks for all your videos.
Thanks, Nelson. Yeah, some info just never gets old :-)
I love painting on wood. It's so much better than even Claessens' linen, specially for realism. Great video. Thanks.
Fuzzy underside !!lol. Yoyr videos are amazing and very helpful to me thank you for your time. The bloopers always crack me up as well.
Thanks, Melissa!
we like a gentle circular motion, thanks Jeff, I do this to all my surfaces for painting
Best video for this topic I've found. Really appreciate you making the video.
Thank you for taking the time to spread the love of art and inspire creativity with these real world tutorials. Your paintings are sick dude. You rock!
Watched this one just for the bloopers. And it delivered!
LOL. Yep, I can always count on not getting it right the first, second, third, or fourth time :-)
I'm glad you don't! I love that you put out great educational content, with a side of humor! I always look forward to seeing your videos in my feed.
Thanks Jeff, hardboard prepared like this is also great for airbrush paintings. I've used it many times.
Something of value....."Like a Teddy Bear's ass?" LOL. Love it Jeff. Thanks so much! Great teaching and entertaining too.
Hey Jeff , thanks for taking the time to make these great videos , they are a great help. Keep up the excellent work
You're welcome, Corlen. I appreciate the kind words.
"Deathkeeper" is easily in the top 5 coolest images ever made.
YOU are a work of art!
Omg!,. I'm still cracking up at those bloopers!,.. " six is not shown on one hand",.. Lol!, as always great video Jeff .
Hey Jeff. Thanks for this. Just what I was hoping to find.
Cheers
Really love watching your stuff as something to draw to, keep the vids coming they're awesome.
Thanks Lebowski. Sorry about your rug.
Lol thanks, it turned out not to be the issue anyway.
Great video! I love the bloopers you guys do! FUZZY UNDERSIDE!
The counter clockwise or clockwise, whatever comment made me laugh out loud. That was some funny and unexpected shit 😂
Thanks for the videos, they're great. Love your style and your bloopers are hilarious. :)
Nice one Jeff! keep em coming, its a big help!
So many funny scene behind it. Hahahaa....
Thank You for the video.
By the way, I love your art work and I enjoy too much your videos, thanks for sharing
good stuff man, this helps folks like me
would love to see more painting techinques...blending glazing layering etc. keep up the good work i enjoy ur vids!
Great Jeff !!!!!! I'm waiting you video's always week's !!! Big Hello from Italian artist !!! Aury
Thanks, Aury!
Awesome thanks Jeff - I'm going to have a go :)
funny and enjoyable...most a value to everyone..what...thanks
awesome video and very interesting on preparing a surface for painting. Love your videos and your bloopers xD
Thanks!
You should always wear a face mask when sanding MDF as it has formaldehyde in it.
Yummy
Oh shit! I didn't know that... I've been doing it indoors as well
Ivon, sanding without a powered tool, (lower than 600 rpms) will not produce particulate small enough to be a problem. Furthermore, MDF is not formulated with the same process that it was in the 60's. The boards are more ph stabile and do not tarnish the ground of paintings nearly as badly as they once did, I also think your assumption is based on a myth surrounding hardboard, not MDF or Masonite, which did in fact contain some nasty stuff before the 70's. As long as you are outside or wearing an N-95 mask, sanding with an orbital will be fine, for any type of wood product.
Useful tips and advice. Many thanks
I give you a "like" based on your t-shirt alone! I'm still in awe of Bruce Lee.
LOL YES! Bruce Lee rocks! thx
@@jeffmiracolaartist, I still use Bruce Lee's philosophy. Something he taught his students was to "honestly express yourself", using a system of liabilities and assets. He didn't invent the technique, but he taught it.
"Teddy Bear's ass"!! I Love It!!! Haha!!
I was looking for info on how to prepare wood panels, found you, loved the video, was just going to thumb-up you and go my merry way, but then your bloopers came on and got me giggling, so I subscribed. lol
Do you frame these 1/8" panels? Ugggh, I like larger size, 30x40.....I should cradle it....but I am thinking of using a router to make a groove into wood frame then panel should slide into frame! I am thinking of using 1/4" thick panels from Home Depot and making them somewhat smaller, but I imagine they are crazy heavy! Not sure what to do! I would love your opinion on this! Thank you!
I hear you, no short cuts! Thank you for sharing. Thanks to you my pictures look a litle bit better now. Youre a great teacher. (You 2 seem like a good team ;D)
Thanks, Rob. Yeah, my wife is a special lady!
thank you so much, this really helped me to work on a big prop I'm building!
Excellent. Glad I could help :-) Good luck.
Thank you so much for this vid! ThankS!
meu caro amigo nossa fantástico suas pinturas (obras de artes ) adorei suas obras são lindos .....
Nice Frazetta like composition on that Magic the gathering painting
good hints - I will sand before applying gesso in future!
Thanks for including the bloopers funny!
Glad you enjoy me being an idiot. LOL
loved the bloopers lol Sooo funny :)
That "magical" surface is the slurry of wet glue and wood fibers which have been "hot pressed" on one or both sides. It's a magical process, that leads to your magical results. It's also highly automated. Kinda like an orbital sander is... which can make that sanding job last only ten seconds. Really. Only ten seconds. Yup. And while we are talking ten seconds, let's talk foam weeny roller for applying gesso, in this case, 30 seconds... SO- your fifteen minute video, that actually took maybe two hours to make, would take me 30-40 minutes, because, blowdryer. Dude, your outtakes were hilarious! Thanks!
Tune in next time, when I talk about PVA Primer, that cost less than a tenth the price of gesso, and comes in a five gallon buckets, can be tinted, and is sold in paint stores!
In the time it took you to write all that, I gessoed 20 boards. Lol just kidding. I dig your response 😂😂😂
@@jeffmiracolaartist I have been doing this for a LONG time, and I see a lot of videos that have only one perspective, and I know it all comes back to a matter of time for the research vs how busy they are... and exposure to materials that most artist will never cross paths with, who has time for experimentations? I have had the luck to have had a job that gave me insights into materials. I hope this helps! I have thought a lot about doing a video for technical depth about materials and process in preparation... if I could just find the time...
Thanks, I needed a good laugh! I did learn something too!
I’ve saved this.its a lot easier THANKS
Great video! Thanks!
So . This was great . Question ... I did not use gesso but plaster / joint compound. I put that in the rough side ....? It warped ...now ...it’s dried flat??? So I’m good . But do you think it had something to do with putting in rough side ??? Any thoughts ?
Funny video, all your videos are great!! Are you going to paint on that board, would love to see it?
Great video. I thing to add, always use dust mask while sanding. Hardwood dust is just irritating, but sanded gesso can damage your lungs (it did mine) and send you to bed for a week.
Masonite (as the first of these materials) simply came into existence from an accident of sawdust being subjected to steam and pressure. That 'coating' is in fact simply the shiny side from the the material being pressed down onto a smooth base as it is heated and pressured. It's a remarkable material given it's humble origins.
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS
Thank you.
Nice and informative. I believe a shellac or oil based primer would also be a substitute for gesso.
Thanks for this info.
I love your videos! :)
This video realy help me my friend ☺☺☺👍🙋
You made my day with that teddy bears ass comment haha
Kayden C LOL. Glad you liked that :-)
your videos make my day :')
Thanks for your reply ,I usually use MDF which I sand because of its smooth surface and then treat with a substance called agua fond ,by the way I'm in Italy so I don't know exactly what this product contains.It seems to work but as I said some colours esp. yellow don't assorb and when you go over them come away, even if they're dry they won't take other paint.Maybe its something in that particular colour?
Before aplying gesso you MUST seal the surface with an acrilic primer = acrilic size = acrilic fluid medium !
Acrylic gesso IS an acrylic primer.
really great big thank you!
You're very welcome ;-)
Thanks you sir ,,I like you beautiful video. Study made flame. Or flat wood board paint ing oil painting,, artwork shop,,,
Thanks for the info,Jeff!:-)
Thanks for the info ! What about the backside? I've heard that you need to seal it with, say shellac to create a moisture barrier ?? Does that make sense, or is it not necessary? Have also heard that you should "seal" the front also, before you Gesso and sand ? Is the front sealing not necessary?
Never heard of that. I have never done that in my 25+ years. And I also have never heard of any other artists around me doing that. But hey, maybe my paintings will fall apart in 200 years. But I won't be around to care LOL
Modern hardboard is sawdust and resin/glue under pressure.
There are many types and grades.
The cheapest is the type with one smooth surface and the back with a rough texture that looks at if window screen was laid on it and mashed in.
The better quality is smooth both sides.
The original DURON was very stiff and tough and smooth. It cam in 4X8 sheets and in two widths, 1/8 th and 1/4. There were three facilities in he US that made it for 3M. All three are closed. First in Oregon (where I live), next in Michigan and then in Georgia. All gone.
For some time there was no substitute . As I will not use the one side textured product, ( I do not compromise)
I had to scramble.
First I bought the product with one side in a sprayed on white finish and scuffed and repainted that side.
Then other companies started making a smooth on both side product, ok but not DURON.
As there was no alternative, I stopped using the 1/8th as it crumbles and will separate with your fingernail.
I went to 1/4.. better but it or nothing.
Did I mention I bought out every lumber yard withing 100 miles of their remaining DURON.? Alas the well went dry.
But I still have 8 sheets I save for "special" projects, museum pieces, private collections such as the Alfa Romeo Museum in Australia, the Global President of Ford Motor Co. and friends .
There is now a very slight slim to none availability of "artists hardboard" ( as the art supply places call it..
and some at a couple local lumber yards. "Cabinet" ( as in sloppy American version of cabinets not the professional stuff made in Europe.. we don't have but a few real cabinet makers.. the rest are push pull click click get the job get it done get the money hacks) makers used this product for cabinet backs and bottoms and sometimes sliders.
But for all you aspirants.. there is a "new" product called " Eucaboard" ... you guessed it, made from eucalyptus trees.
Still made with sawdust glue.resin under pressure. There are 2 thicknesses, somewhere near and 1/8th and some where near a 1/4 minus... the thicknesses are actually metric, but who's counting. It is available from a few box stores such as Home Creepo and Blowes)
There is a slight texture to the backside, but not as rough or unsightly as the hardboard you usually find.
Prices between $15 and $20 a 4x8 sheet.. Good luck.
Sanding..
Two points.
1. In this video there is a disgraceful demonstration of whacking a sheet of sandpaper...crude and wasteful and useless.
First fold it in half to make two roughly 5 1/2 by 8 1/2 sheets. I'll stop here.. go to youtube and put in the professional way to cut a piece of sandpaper.
2. 100 grit is too rough it will tear the snot out of hardboard. and cut you precious surface.
400 is too fine. Get some 220 and be done with it to prep with gesso or acrylic primer..yes they are different unless you get acrylic gesso. (which is a misnomer)
3. Get a proper palm or small orbital sander..I used Porter Cable ( professional) but there are other makes get one with a rectangular platen(sp) to accept your properly folded and torn/cut sandpaper. Use your 220.
You can consider 400 for sanding in between layers of gesso.
As to coating both sides of your board. Yes, that is the way professionals would do it.
There is another product called MDF... Medium Density Fiberboard. as mentioned..
However look for MEDITE.. thinnest is 1/4 inch.... it is the Mercedes-Benz of MDF....
I would say Cadillac but since the 70s they are complete junk. Yes I was in the car biz for 25 years, then a furniture maker/folk artist for 20 years , then an artist full time for the last 10 yrs, more if you count I was doing this on and off since the mid fifties when I was a little kid. No I do not believe in modest ,, it is a bullspit affectation.
I delight in saying I cannot keep up with orders, and I do not advertise nor have a you tube account. Far too busy.
Thanks this is really useful, I want to do some big city works but the large canvases cost a lot. Your work is framed in glass, my work is abstract and will be built up a lot with flexible modelling paste etc. I guess the hardboard will still be ok once treated if it has no glass frame? I aim to mount the works on a floating frame. Best regards, James.
Jeff, what if you want to mount linen on the borad,do you still need to put gesso on the panel before glueing the linen ?
No, you do not need gesso on the board in that case. Just mount your linen to the board and then gesso your linen.
Thank you for share the video Jeff mairacola and if your uncomfortable with the word valuable then say tips for paint on surface.
What size board do you normally use for your painting submissions
Hi, I love watching all your videos Jeff and esp like the bloopers ;-)
How I wish you and youtube had been around 30yrs ago when I first started oil painting. I made every mistake you mention. I did my first painting on the wrong side of hardboard with no primer as I didn't know there was such a thing. It took me forever to try and do the small details lol. Having learnt my lesson on that one, my second painting was at least on the smooth side of the board, but again no gesso, so my oil paints were sinking right in and it felt as if I was painting with Jam! (I was a blonde at the time lol )
Diane Howe Art Aw you're so nice, Diane. Thank you. Hey, I wish I had something like this RUclips channel back when I was younger, too. Would have made it all so much easier.
+Diane Howe Art I agree the bloopers give a sense of humanity, we all make mistakes and to not give up. I had no you tube when I started painting and for him to step up and share his knowledge is what makes him an example of what an artist truly is.
Using Kilz oil based primer before you gesso will save some time and coats, after you prime it ,sand ,and gesso.
Vito Saulytis Next time I need to buy Gesso, I'll give this a try :-) thanks.
jeffmiracola can I paint straight from a canvas bord or does it have to be prepared like u do ur bords
Well…nicely presented but for those who want archival quality panels I’d suggest after light sanding giving the panel 2-3 light coats of GAC100 to prevent SID. But hey, it’s RUclips, folks got all kinds of short cuts going on…
@@fogsmart in my 30 years of painting on substrate such as Masonite, hardboard, gesso board, illustration board, etc., I have not once encountered SID, or Support Induced Discoloration. Multiple coats of gesso has been enough to seal the surface for me. Introducing another product such as GAC100, for the way I work, is unnecessary.
Can you tell me how/ why 5 coats of emulsion paint then the gesso work. Is it necessary?
Troppo belli i Bloopers ! ha ha ha !
Ahahah fa morì
Hi Jeff, I saw the video and applied the gesso also did sanding 3 times. still, I see the rough surface & brush strokes. how to make the board smoother for oil painting?
Without knowing exactly the thickness of the gesso you applied, what brand of gesso you used, or what kind of surface you're working on, it is difficult for me to say. But if the surface is still too rough for you after each coat and sanding, then your only option is to do a very serious sanding of that final surface. And that may require multiple sandpaper grits. Start with a very coarse sandpaper with a grit somewhere around 100-200. Then smooth everything out with a finer grit sandpaper like 800-1000 or even higher.
hello im from denmark, and im wondering what "gesso" is, just so i can find a product that does the same thing here in denmark :)
Do you use sand paper after the last coat of geso?
Haha, I wish I could work with you guys, seems like you are having a good time there :)
It actually feels like that method is cheaper than canvas, and also it feels like it gives the painting a sense of higher quality somehow.
Yes, the hardboard is cheaper than canvas. Especially if you buy a huge sheet of it and cut it up into smaller pieces. Painting on hardboard definitely gives a different finished surface than canvas. It is more glossy for sure.
What's the reason to use hardboards instead of canvases from the art store? Is it because it's more affordable or are there other reasons?
6 coats, wow!
I have a question, i bought Artist Panels from Hobby Lobby, they told me they were Masonite panels, they came with gesso already and i dont like the it takes the paint for an underpainting, could i sand it down to get a nicer smooth surface to paint on? & is it worth buying pre-gesso panels or should i just take my time and do it the way you demonstrated? thanks again for all the videos, looking forward to a new one :)
Kalvin Rosario Pre-gessoed panels are okay. I've used them a few times. But yes, you could sand down the pre-gessoed panels if you feel the texture is too rough. Use a fine grit sandpaper so you don't end up making the board even more rough than it already is.
some of the companies use Linseed oil to make that smooth surface on the hard wood.
Fuzzy underside !? use a razor :D LOL always hilarious watching your outtakes (y)
Hi Jeff!
can you talk about the preparing of illustration board?
Thanks a lot, your videos are precius!
Merry xmas!
Cheers from Italy!
Andrea Longhi Andrea, I just uploaded a video today about creating an acrylic painting of a goblin. But in that video I show how I prepare my illustration boards :-) So hopefully that will help.ruclips.net/video/lfTCpax2HII/видео.html
Genial Thanks!
Can I apply gesso on laminated board to be used for artistic work?
I've never done that. Mainly because laminated board is super smooth. There isn't anything for the gesso to "grip" on to. I suppose the only way it might work is if you first sand the laminated board so you create a textured surface that will give the gesso something to cling to.
But again, I haven't done this so I can't speak to the how long a painting might last on that kind of surface. The paint could chip off easily over time.
Hello Mr. Miracola, I bought white hardboard and I'm going through the steps of gessoing the board, but I'm afraid it wouldn't come out the same since it's not the brown hardboard.
Glenn,
I have never used the white hardboard. I have to assume the white portion is pre-painted onto the board. And I'd imagine it is rather smooth. Using gesso adds a bit of texture or tooth for your acrylic or oil paints to hold on to. That's not to say that the board won't work just the way you have it. But since I haven't used it before, I can't give you a solid answer. The best thing to do is to use a smaller piece of it to do an experimental painting on.
Love the bloopers and your laugh! What if you primed the rough side amd then used gesso overthe primer? Would "bits" still come off?
yes, bits would come off into the primer. I would never personally prime the rough side. It would be far too rough of a surface an again, all those little bits of fiber would mix into the primer. Wouldn't be fun to paint on for my purposes.
aaaannd SUSCRIBED !!
aaaannd, THANK YOU! :-)
Hi Jeff, I'm wondering if you ever have issues with surface induced discoloration since you don't seal the boards before applying gesso? Thanks!
Alena Freeman never had a problem with that in all my years preparing boards. And I’ve prepared both tempered and untempered boards. Maybe I’ve been lucky :-)
I spray the surface with a primer, lightly sand and start painting. Seems to work fine. Should I stop doing it this way??
I guess it depends on what kind of primer you are talking about. If you're using standard house paint primer, you will want to consider switching to acrylic gesso. If your method is working for you, stick with it, but you'll want to keep in mind the long term effects. House primers aren't meant to last for more than 10-25 years. But more importantly, gesso has sand or pumice mixed into it which gives oil paints in particular something to adhere to. Without that extra "tooth", the paint has nothing to cling on to and the surface can become unstable, chipping away easily. Acrylic gesso also has flexibility, which is important over time as painting surfaces like canvas can expand or retract with temperature changes. Acrylic gesso is more expensive, but if you're at all concerned about the longevity of your paintings, you'll want to use all the proper materials.
Hi Jeff, do you put gesso on both sides if you are preparing MDFs?
I paint on 1/4" thick MDF, so there is no need to put gesso on the backside. If you are going to paint on 1/8" thick MDF, and the board is 18"x24" or larger, then you may need to put some gesso on the backside. But for smaller boards, I have never put any gesso on the back and never had any warping.
Thanks very much for your comments!