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Intro to Volvo 240 PCV Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 14 авг 2024
- This is an Introduction to the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system of Volvo 240 style cars. Please feel free to comment and ask questions and please subscribe.
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Part 2: • Intro to Volvo 240 PCV...
Ipdusa - www.ipdusa.com/...
The Article I read: www.ipdusa.com/...
Informational Article: forums.turbobri...
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A good test to see if you are plugged up is to put your palm over the engine oil fill hole :) (remove the oil cap, start the engine) and if it is sucking your palm in at idle then you're good. If it's pushing against your hand you're clogged up.
Replace the box and the cam seal, they are supposed to be replaced every third oil change but they are often left to leak, the trick to getting the box off is to go from under the car under the intake loosen the two bolts (much easier said than done) I used a lot of wobble extensions, unattached the fuel injection wiring harness form the box, its a zip screw, save that clip when you take the box out, what I did was I detached the flame trap hose, and pulled the box up being careful...
Great Video! I'm also a volvo owner and checking the pcv system was a pain. I would put two fingers in the slot by the third fuel injector and stick my hand in the space between the block and distributor. I would recommend getting IPD Flame Trap relocation kit. Worth every penny
Thanks :) I'll check that kit out, sounds like it will make life a lot easier
the cam.intermediate seal, and front crank seal are usually done , about every 100,000 miles. Opinions vary on this but this is the rule of thumb
Nice video buddy! Thank you for your efforts and time! Love your car!
Nice Video. Today i was driving my 1991 240. going 30 mph, i heard a pop under the hood. minutes later i smelled, and saw smoke coming from hood. i raised hood, and saw oil spitting out from back near top of passenger side of motor dripping on exhaust pipe. i drove it home. now to fix whatever is wrong.
Feel behind the head of your engine by the firewall your rear cam plug gasket probably popped out, you probably have a PCV issue , so much pressure probably built up inside your engine it popped the seal out, type in IPD Volvo cam cover gasket on youtube and watch the video the round black thing on the head engine in the video is the gasket, you have to remove the valve cover remove the rear cam cap and replace the gasket plug, also replace the valve cover gasket as well as go over your PCV components, if your going to do that please get a good torque wrench the torque on the cam cap is 15 ft-lbs and its very important! If you over torque it you could damage the cylinder head or cam, if its too lose the cap could pop off or a bolt could fall in the engine, check it out and feel free to post again if you have a question
thanks very much for all your pinpoint suggestions and explainations. continued success to you!
No problem, thanks! Good luck with your Volvo :)
To conclude this, the flame trap is not a good indicator how sludged up the box is also my rear cam seal continued to leak a bit after I overhauled the flame trap/ PCV system, I still have to replace it and if you run into any problems or have any more questions feel free to ask,
Best of luck
thank you for video. it made the job much easier for me.
who4444444444 Thanks for watching! Glad I could help
... not to pull the hose up from the block, just lift the box slowly and make sure only its being pulled from the block and move it up and over the injection wiring harness and then when it gets close to the intake start to turn it upside down towards the fender and pull it over the harness towards you, be gentle not to damage anything, when you get the box out heft it, its not supposed to be too heavy, but buy a new box before you remove the old one and replace it
Just checked my car, 7/16th imperial size for the brass, 10mm was just a fraction too small.
Anyone else checked?
thank you so much
Is it tricky to get the actual box off? (not the flame trap)
I am diagnosing excess crank pressure causing my front cam seal to leak a little and I pulled the flame trap - it's dirty but not clogged. Much like yours in this video. Did you find that the flame trap was not an indicator of how sludgy the actual "box" is that the flame trap is attached to?
If the canister hasn't been replaced in the time you've owned the car or in the span of the last three years I would replace it along with the flame trap, IPD USA has the parts for a good price, the engine will run much freer with a clear PCV canister and flame trap
All these hoses are for emissions so it cannot go in the environment ? Can I just disconnect all of them before the emission laws ?
Only two hoses are for emissions the two closes to the black intake pipe, they are for the EVAP system, all the other ones run important stuff like AC vent position, fuel pressure regulator and Idle air mixture, if you disconnect them it may run terrible, not idle, etc.
Take the brass brace piece off and spray it huh?
You actually DO NOT NEED to remove the intake.
On a Volvo with K-jetronic you may need to remove the intake, not on one with Bosch 2.3 L electronic fuel injection, removing the intake manifold or TB makes it easier
Ditto
leave the intake in place, remove idle air motor and its bracket and associate hoses. 2 bolts and its out. I always swap out the oil trap and flame trap.
I've done it both ways, removing the manifold is not needed at all.
Mine is a 1990 740 with Regina, not Bosch system.
Should I replace the canister? Or should I just replace the flame trap?
My little hose just pulls off easy .. what is the brass thing?
The nipple that screws into the intake manifold is made from brass - the thing the hose pokes on to
Wagon Man haha yeah .. i am having to do all this myself
with so much that is so easy on these cars why does the pcv hafta be such a pain