Thank you - good job describing what I have to do. Luckily the guys at IPD are helpful and own Volvos themselves. Call to talk with them for additional questions - I did. I neglected my sedan for 12 years. she's got 245,000 miles on her and I hope to keep her.
Thanks for this; really helpful. I'll know just HOW helpful when I attempt the work, but I now have a clue as to how to proceed, and a well-narrated video such as this gives me just enough confidence to charge ahead. -Much appreciated.
Great info , when i found out about the flame trap and the oil trap , i just clean it really good , and what i did on all of my 4 volvos is to replace the hose "E" on your diagram for custom made hose , about 3-4 inch longer , that brings the flame trap higher over the intake , and its so much easier to get to it to clean it with every oil change .
djpitr Nice, I ended up doing something like that on my 940 wagon, it has the same engine (B230F) it makes it so much easier to check the flame trap verses fighting with it between the intake runners
Interesting tip with the ATF, Will see what I discover. Also considering the oil pump delivery seal being poorly put on the vehicle. Will write back when I have more details. Thanks again
When I took my car to Pepboys (was pretty desperate to figure out what was wrong) they diagnosed a dirty oil sump. Perhaps cleaning the breather box will alleviate some of those issues? At least I hope so - They wanted 700 bucks to pull the oil pan due to the subframe being in the way.
You can also remove the IAC motor it has two hoses its under the throttle body, one going to the intake manifold and one going to the "snorkel" you pulled off the throttle body and one connector, if you really feel like making a ton of space remove the intake manifold, if you decide to go so far as removing the intake have the gasket and some new injector O-rings on hand and be careful with the fuel rail it bends easily, also spray the fasteners down with some penetrating oil and let soak
Just thought I would leave another comment. I really appreciate the video. Is the breather box a pain to get off? I am "lucky" enough to have pretty small and skinny hands and I am trying to remove my breather box to see if it is causing my crankcase pressure issues.
With my 240 the box was clogged so that the flame trap screen wasn't plug up when I bought a new box it weighed about 1/2 of what the old box weighed, if your worried about a dirty sump there a trick to do, set your car up for an oil change dump the old oil and buy a cheap filter and put in fresh oil but replace one quart with a quart of ATF, idle the car for 15 min DO NOT drive it and then dump that oil and filter and replace with a good Mann filter and good oil, that will flush the engine
The replacement of the box should alleviate the symptoms and also how could they tell if you had a dirty oil sump without taking the pan off in the first place? I've never heard of that, they just want to pull the engine out of your c240 and charge you for doing jack crap :) Do a bit of research on using ATF for a flush before you do it, just to get the details, personally I don't think its necessary, but its good to have options
The bolts are the hard part the box should come right up and out with some clever moving, I have large hands and got a good deal of scratches trying to remove the box, latex surgeons gloves or the Mylar ones sold at harbor freight will save you from that, if you decide to remove the IAC make sure the battery is out and the radio is off before you remove the battery, clean the IAC out as well and replace the hoses if they look bad or come apart and thanks for watching, I'm glad to help :)
Thank you for all the details and so soon! I pulled the throttle body off and I am cleaning the brass nipple that does into the intake manifold from the flame trap - it is soaking in solution as I write this message. Any tips on accessing the separator box? I removed throttle body to help make a little more room to access the box.
Remove the air intake hose, air idle motor, its bracket and connected hoses, then getting the oil trap out is easy. I pulled the intake manifold but its not necessary.
what is the name of the inline white-black regulator just abobe and to the right of the brass nipple you were talking about in your Part 1. It is clearly visible in this video at the 6 minute mark and up. Lokk strsight above the high pressure gas intake coming from the tank
how about the oil sump hose inside the block, how do you change that one? I happened to find mine broken and believe it to be living in the oil pan now... have spared with me but I am hesitant if dropping the pan or is it possible to snake it in from above? I am always able with combo of tools and joins for extensions to remove and change the PCV on any of my Volvos 240s.
@@moonglow1158 already semidropped the pan and fished it throu the side by hand. Then put the pan back on. Still a long time job. The hose was OK and in full. So just put a new one and go.
Thank you - good job describing what I have to do. Luckily the guys at IPD are helpful and own Volvos themselves. Call to talk with them for additional questions - I did. I neglected my sedan for 12 years. she's got 245,000 miles on her and I hope to keep her.
Thanks for this; really helpful. I'll know just HOW helpful when I attempt the work, but I now have a clue as to how to proceed, and a well-narrated video such as this gives me just enough confidence to charge ahead. -Much appreciated.
Great info , when i found out about the flame trap and the oil trap , i just clean it really good , and what i did on all of my 4 volvos is to replace the hose "E" on your diagram for custom made hose , about 3-4 inch longer , that brings the flame trap higher over the intake , and its so much easier to get to it to clean it with every oil change .
djpitr Nice, I ended up doing something like that on my 940 wagon, it has the same engine (B230F) it makes it so much easier to check the flame trap verses fighting with it between the intake runners
Interesting tip with the ATF, Will see what I discover. Also considering the oil pump delivery seal being poorly put on the vehicle. Will write back when I have more details. Thanks again
When I took my car to Pepboys (was pretty desperate to figure out what was wrong) they diagnosed a dirty oil sump. Perhaps cleaning the breather box will alleviate some of those issues? At least I hope so - They wanted 700 bucks to pull the oil pan due to the subframe being in the way.
You can also remove the IAC motor it has two hoses its under the throttle body, one going to the intake manifold and one going to the "snorkel" you pulled off the throttle body and one connector, if you really feel like making a ton of space remove the intake manifold, if you decide to go so far as removing the intake have the gasket and some new injector O-rings on hand and be careful with the fuel rail it bends easily, also spray the fasteners down with some penetrating oil and let soak
We did try to pull the pcv oil-drain hose out and it was hard as plastic . It broke off too so we may get it out with a special tool soon .
Just thought I would leave another comment. I really appreciate the video.
Is the breather box a pain to get off? I am "lucky" enough to have pretty small and skinny hands and I am trying to remove my breather box to see if it is causing my crankcase pressure issues.
With my 240 the box was clogged so that the flame trap screen wasn't plug up when I bought a new box it weighed about 1/2 of what the old box weighed, if your worried about a dirty sump there a trick to do, set your car up for an oil change dump the old oil and buy a cheap filter and put in fresh oil but replace one quart with a quart of ATF, idle the car for 15 min DO NOT drive it and then dump that oil and filter and replace with a good Mann filter and good oil, that will flush the engine
No problem, thanks for watching
The replacement of the box should alleviate the symptoms and also how could they tell if you had a dirty oil sump without taking the pan off in the first place? I've never heard of that, they just want to pull the engine out of your c240 and charge you for doing jack crap :) Do a bit of research on using ATF for a flush before you do it, just to get the details, personally I don't think its necessary, but its good to have options
The bolts are the hard part the box should come right up and out with some clever moving, I have large hands and got a good deal of scratches trying to remove the box, latex surgeons gloves or the Mylar ones sold at harbor freight will save you from that, if you decide to remove the IAC make sure the battery is out and the radio is off before you remove the battery, clean the IAC out as well and replace the hoses if they look bad or come apart and thanks for watching, I'm glad to help :)
Right ! I actually cleaned out the hoses .. very very dirty . I hope it works until i get new iac hoses
Thank you for all the details and so soon! I pulled the throttle body off and I am cleaning the brass nipple that does into the intake manifold from the flame trap - it is soaking in solution as I write this message. Any tips on accessing the separator box? I removed throttle body to help make a little more room to access the box.
Remove the air intake hose, air idle motor, its bracket and connected hoses, then getting the oil trap out is easy.
I pulled the intake manifold but its not necessary.
Did you need to replace the intake manifold gasket though ?
How can u replacement the rear cam plug with out removing your valve cover gasket.?
what is the name of the inline white-black regulator just abobe and to the right of the brass nipple you were talking about in your Part 1. It is clearly visible in this video at the 6 minute mark and up. Lokk strsight above the high pressure gas intake coming from the tank
Its a vacuum check valve, here's the IPD Volvo website part number 115580 if you want to find it
how about the oil sump hose inside the block, how do you change that one? I happened to find mine broken and believe it to be living in the oil pan now... have spared with me but I am hesitant if dropping the pan or is it possible to snake it in from above? I am always able with combo of tools and joins for extensions to remove and change the PCV on any of my Volvos 240s.
I never had that problem, but I heard you had to drop the oil pan to replace that hose,
@@LordNelsonsTrousers Yeah looks like so... checking in pan drop videos and tutorials now... thnx for the reply.
Wagon Man i tried and the hoses is totally hard as plastic . I am getting a special tool to pull it out hopefully
@@moonglow1158 already semidropped the pan and fished it throu the side by hand. Then put the pan back on. Still a long time job. The hose was OK and in full. So just put a new one and go.
Sergio Enrique Cuquerella did you have to loosen your motor mounts to drop that oil pan some?