Nice video, it'll help me on my 240 rear brake job I plan soon. A few minor quibbles, however: Consider using locktite on the caliper bracket bolts. It not only prevents vibration induced loosening, it also helps lubricate the threads during reassembly which is always a good thing given how cruddy these bolts can get. (2) It's probably a good idea to use thermal / anti-seaze grease on the pad backing plates. This will help eliminate some noise as well as improve thermal dissipation and prevent the pads from getting fused in a fixed position to the caliper cylinders. (3) I would recommend securing the caliper with some wire or string to spring instead of simply resting it there. It's an extra minute per wheel but can save big hassles by making sure you don't accidentally knock that caliper off damaging the break line. (4) I noticed that you didn't insert cotter pins into the retaining pins. Are they really not there? The front has them so I had assumed the rear would too. Thanks again for the video, it was nicely done and to the point.
the 240 series Volvo have excellent brakes when all goes right ! they are delicate on the pad mounting, they must run free and the contact points must be lubricated with specific grease, I own and maintain Volvos for more than 35 years and my brake systems always worked OK but in general, they need a major intervention every 10 years where I rebuild every calipers , replace the master cylinder and the metering valve, bleeding the system and of course replacing the fluid
I agree with lineartechbd1600 - in addition to the grease, I would clean the guide surfaces that are on the caliper (area that pads slide back and forth over) with a metal pick and flat chisel to get out old brake dust out and any old grease that could hinder its sliding movement under caliper piston compression. Another area with these brakes would be to clean the old baked on scale from the guide pins and look for signs of wear. Ive seen old pins with grooves from vibration. There are anti-squeal shims that act as backing plates of the pads that should be lightly coated with synthetic brake grease. Spray down with brake cleaner to remove grease. Torquing the brake calipers to the axle flange is also recommended I think 70 ft lbs (memory fails me) - not just hand tight. Nice job on the wheel torque as uneven or over tightening can cause a warped brake rotor. Cheers!
Knocked out our 1990 240's rear brakes in a couple of hours with your video's help. Not bad for a complete amateur. Video is much better than the service manual! Thanks for the help!
You really should have replaced the calipers. I think that would be the reason the pads were uneven and the rotor is scored. Good vid though for the folks who didn't know how easy these cars are to fix.
Maybe the outside pad wore faster because the surface on which it slides is rusted and needed to be greased. I notice how they didn't come out or go in very easily.
i got all ready for wildness when i decided to do my front brakes on my 240. i done them on almost every car i've owned and a few more and i was SUPER pleasantly suprised. took about 20 minutes a side.. pads only. the 240 does not dissapoint me yet!
With the rotor being destroyed after only about 9000 miles, and very uneven wear, wouldn't you want to replace the caliper as well? There is clearly something wrong here besides the pads.
Was gonna do a simple job, but when I replaced discs and pads I noticed the pistons got stuck when pushed too far in. Can this be rust/corrosion from moist in the brake fluid?
Did u adjust the parking shoes by sticking screwdriver through 6 o clock hole same way u took off after new pads and rotors? Or did u turn a star wheel i put mine on and they dont seem to spin enough and i dont want to cook brand new rotors
But...but...but...what was the final verdict? Was the outer piston stuck? The video did not address this...just wondering what you found. Thanks for the video!
Nice Video! Very helpful. I do have a question though. I just noticed I've been losing brake fluid and it seems to be coming from the rear right brake caliper. I haven't pinpointed the exact spot but have you ever encountered this sort of problem? Would I have replace the whole caliper? Any help would be greatly appreciated
+Broncocarl92 I inspected the caliper and the leak is coming from the piston area. Im going to replace but noticed the calipers on my 88 240 Volvo wagon have the "buffer hat". I found some remanufactured one's but they don't have the buffer hat. Is it going to matter?
If you make a video and show the world your work, criticism is sure to follow, i started work for a Volvo dealership way back in 1984, if i had repaired a car to your standard i would have been fired, and rightly so, the rotors were off, you should have spent 5 minutes cleaning and lubing the rear shoes, it as a bad job, it went back as dry as it came off.
TheWreckingYard yeah 240 brakes are terrible.A lot of people go with a larger wheel and replace the brake system with larger brakes.what the video doesnt show is that the front calipers have two brake lines each and bleeding the brakes on these cars is a pain in the ass because of the sequence to properly bleed..It's a different story when you have to replace the caliper lol
I guess they dont need a glide pin cause the caliper has a symmetrical built, each side of rotor has a piston...where the glidepins are only needed on the assymetrical models.....fyi....hope this helps mate
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thanks! changed front and rear last night, whole job start to finish took 90 minutes. great video help here!
Nice video, it'll help me on my 240 rear brake job I plan soon. A few minor quibbles, however: Consider using locktite on the caliper bracket bolts. It not only prevents vibration induced loosening, it also helps lubricate the threads during reassembly which is always a good thing given how cruddy these bolts can get. (2) It's probably a good idea to use thermal / anti-seaze grease on the pad backing plates. This will help eliminate some noise as well as improve thermal dissipation and prevent the pads from getting fused in a fixed position to the caliper cylinders. (3) I would recommend securing the caliper with some wire or string to spring instead of simply resting it there. It's an extra minute per wheel but can save big hassles by making sure you don't accidentally knock that caliper off damaging the break line. (4) I noticed that you didn't insert cotter pins into the retaining pins. Are they really not there? The front has them so I had assumed the rear would too. Thanks again for the video, it was nicely done and to the point.
Cleaning and lubricating -- never heard of it!
the 240 series Volvo have excellent brakes when all goes right !
they are delicate on the pad mounting, they must run free and the contact points must be lubricated with specific grease, I own and maintain Volvos for more than 35 years and my brake systems always worked OK but in general, they need a major intervention every 10 years where I rebuild every calipers , replace the master cylinder and the metering valve, bleeding the system and of course replacing the fluid
just did mine tonight. this vid helped immensely. i had no idea it was this easy.. you pretty much saved me $500..... thank you...
I agree with lineartechbd1600 - in addition to the grease, I would clean the guide surfaces that are on the caliper (area that pads slide back and forth over) with a metal pick and flat chisel to get out old brake dust out and any old grease that could hinder its sliding movement under caliper piston compression. Another area with these brakes would be to clean the old baked on scale from the guide pins and look for signs of wear. Ive seen old pins with grooves from vibration. There are anti-squeal shims that act as backing plates of the pads that should be lightly coated with synthetic brake grease. Spray down with brake cleaner to remove grease. Torquing the brake calipers to the axle flange is also recommended I think 70 ft lbs (memory fails me) - not just hand tight. Nice job on the wheel torque as uneven or over tightening can cause a warped brake rotor. Cheers!
Awesome video! I like the blow by blow description and expert commentary. It's very helpful, Thank you!
Knocked out our 1990 240's rear brakes in a couple of hours with your video's help. Not bad for a complete amateur. Video is much better than the service manual! Thanks for the help!
I know it's been a while, but thanks for putting this up. My son and I have to do pads and rotors today. Thanks again!
Joe Stocker Thanks for watching
You really should have replaced the calipers. I think that would be the reason the pads were uneven and the rotor is scored. Good vid though for the folks who didn't know how easy these cars are to fix.
William Simmons Yeah I agree but not my car and not my budget. I'm sure you understand. Thanks for the comment appreciated.
Good to see you actually torqued the wheel. Lol don't see that much on RUclips.
Thanks for making this video. Cheers from Sweden
Good job, thanks for torquing the lugs. I've had lugs stripped, 300 ft lbs, cross threaded from supposed mechanics that I have had to follow.
Pro tip the brake pads should slide in without the use of a hammer use a triangle file and file the rust off
Thanks! Saved me 300 bucks! One suggestion though. Instead of using a punch for those stupid pins at the end. A full size crow bar works wonders.
Great video! Working on my '84 240 this weekend:)
Maybe the outside pad wore faster because the surface on which it slides is rusted and needed to be greased. I notice how they didn't come out or go in very easily.
i got all ready for wildness when i decided to do my front brakes on my 240. i done them on almost every car i've owned and a few more and i was SUPER pleasantly suprised. took about 20 minutes a side.. pads only. the 240 does not dissapoint me yet!
Another great Job well done buddy
Ahhh...I hear ya. Still a good vid. So many don't know how to shoot a "how to".
use the claw of a hammer to pry the pins in. Works great, past and present owner of 5 265,245, 244, 740 turbo.
no anti-seize on the pads! no wonder they wear uneven!
Are those pins supposed to have cotter pins on the end ? They aren't going anywhere but......
Na, they have an expanding collar on the large end that holds them in place. Works very well.
Thanks for posting this. I have this job to do tomorrow.
Really should have wire brushed out where the pad sits, added anti vibe to the back of the pads.
Remember anti sieze on the hubs and grease on the pads. Other than that good job.
That's the easy part. The shoes are more complicated. Would it be possible to do a video of that procedure? Can't find it anywhere. Thanks!!
With the rotor being destroyed after only about 9000 miles, and very uneven wear, wouldn't you want to replace the caliper as well? There is clearly something wrong here besides the pads.
hammering the new pad MIGHT give a hint that it will not move smooth. just grind the rust from pad rails, no need to swap caliper thou
Thank you so much for your efforts!
Was gonna do a simple job, but when I replaced discs and pads I noticed the pistons got stuck when pushed too far in. Can this be rust/corrosion from moist in the brake fluid?
I learned the hard way to never use aftermarket pads in your Volvo! If you need a hammer to put the pads in, don't be surprised by uneven wear.
Did u adjust the parking shoes by sticking screwdriver through 6 o clock hole same way u took off after new pads and rotors? Or did u turn a star wheel i put mine on and they dont seem to spin enough and i dont want to cook brand new rotors
But...but...but...what was the final verdict? Was the outer piston stuck? The video did not address this...just wondering what you found. Thanks for the video!
Did somebody use a Girling style pad in an ATE caliper? No grease backing on the pads?
"And that's it!"
Great help thanks 🇬🇧🦅🎶🎸😎
Never forget Loctite!
They were made so that a regular person could fix almost any problem by himself :)
Allways make it look so EZ good Vid
Nice Video! Very helpful. I do have a question though. I just noticed I've been losing brake fluid and it seems to be coming from the rear right brake caliper. I haven't pinpointed the exact spot but have you ever encountered this sort of problem? Would I have replace the whole caliper? Any help would be greatly appreciated
+Armando Martinez The leak could be from the seam in the caliper which would likely require replacement. Remanufactured calipers are quite affordable.
Thank you BroncocarI92.
+Broncocarl92 I inspected the caliper and the leak is coming from the piston area. Im going to replace but noticed the calipers on my 88 240 Volvo wagon have the "buffer hat". I found some remanufactured one's but they don't have the buffer hat. Is it going to matter?
I'm not sure what that part is.. is it shown in Bentley manual?
If you make a video and show the world your work, criticism is sure to follow, i started work for a Volvo dealership way back in 1984, if i had repaired a car to your standard i would have been fired, and rightly so, the rotors were off, you should have spent 5 minutes cleaning and lubing the rear shoes, it as a bad job, it went back as dry as it came off.
Nice work, surprisingly small pads for that vehicle
TheWreckingYard yeah 240 brakes are terrible.A lot of people go with a larger wheel and replace the brake system with larger brakes.what the video doesnt show is that the front calipers have two brake lines each and bleeding the brakes on these cars is a pain in the ass because of the sequence to properly bleed..It's a different story when you have to replace the caliper lol
Caliper was sticking from rust.
But all the banging probably got it loosened.🤔
So those pads have their own "slide pins" because of a "fixed calliper"?
I guess they dont need a glide pin cause the caliper has a symmetrical built, each side of rotor has a piston...where the glidepins are only needed on the assymetrical models.....fyi....hope this helps mate
very good
clean clean clean
Very helpful, thx!
Don't I need to bleed the brakes after replacement??
Only if you open the hydraulic system.
Hey thats the kind I used to do LOL,
No need to bleed the line ?
Why would he need to do that, he never diconnected the brake lines.